Tight Shirt Base Fdi421 Table of Content

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 TABLE OF CONTENT

Pattern pieces ...... 3 Pattern block ...... 4

SEWING ...... 5 1. Interfacing placement on the garment ...... 6 2. Basting the shirt ...... 6 3. Darts ...... 6 4. Yoke and shoulder seams ...... 7 5. Side seams ...... 8 6. Placket ...... 8 7. Collar ...... 9 8. Sleeve placket ...... 10 9. Sleeves ...... 11 10. Cu ...... 12 11. Set in sleeve ...... 12

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS PATTERN PIECES

Sleeve 2 Sleeve 1

Shirt Shirt Front 1 Front 2

Upper Collar

Under Collar

Under Collar Stand

Upper Collar Stand Upper Under Yoke Yoke

Shirt Sleeve Cuff 2 Sleeve Cuff 1 Back

Sleeve Upper Sleeve Upper Placket 2 Placket 1 Sleeve Under Sleeve Under Placket 2 Placket 1

SHIRT FABRIC PIECES

Shirt Front 1 Shirt Front 2 Bodice Back Upper Yoke Under Yoke Sleeve Cu 1 Sleeve Cu 2 Sleeve Under Placket 1 Sleeve Under Placket 2 Sleeve Upper Placket 1 Sleeve Upper Placket 2 Upper Collar Under Collar Upper Collar Stand Under Collar Stand Sleeve 1 Sleeve 2

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 3 PATTERN PIECES sleeve bottom. the sleevecapeaseisvariable. Sleevecomeswithclassicsizecu, sleeve placketsandwithpleatsatthe 5. Mediumwidthsleeve withnarrowingattheelbowlevel.Depending onyourupperarmcircumference, and collarstandswithyokeattheback. 4. Hiplength,closettingshirtbasethatcomes withextensionfortheoverlap,upperandundercollar chest circumferenceyourgarmentcaninclude severalbustdarts-fromonetotwo. three atthebackandfromonetotwo front. 3. Dependingonyourbodymeasurements garmentcanincludeseveralwaistdarts-fromoneto FDI421 TIGHT SHIRT BASE allowance foreaseandcomfortatthehip waistcircumference,itis:fullcircumference+1 circumference, itis:fullcircumference+3/4”(2 cm).Thehalfofshirtbaseinclude3/4”(2cm)amount 2. Thehalfofshirtbaseinclude3/8”(1cm)amountallowanceforeaseandcomfortat thechest lines orseamallowance. elaborate design.Blockareconstructedusingyourindividualmeasurementsanddonot show anystyle 1. Ablockisatwodimensionaltemplateforbasicgarmentfromthatcanbemodiedinto amore darts bust armscye waist

darts

waistline bottom

bottom waistline extension overlap center front for the

center back

bottom waistline center front waist darts PATTERN BLOCK P ag

The maindartmaybelong.

center head front e shoulder center

shoulder shoulder elbow line

bottom

(2 cm) center

3/4” shoulder

center pleat shoulder shoulder

overlap slit opening back head shoulder point Dependingonyour elbow line center front slit opening shoulder PATTERN BLOCK point

bottom 1/2 ”(4 cm). overlap head front SEWING

Fabric key Fabric recommendations:

Challis Viscose Challis Suiting Tencel Twill

Medium (6oz-8oz / 204g - 272g)

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Elastane 3 - 10 % fabric fabric interfacing

Laying out and cutting fabric

selvage in bias grain a r g s s o grain line r c selvage =” =” lengthwise grain selvage

1. Place the fabric on the table. 2. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper. 5. Add seam allowances. You can add your seam allowance directly onto your fabric or onto paper rst. Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length.

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 5 SEWING 1. INTERFACING PLACEMENT ON GARMENT

1 5 9 9 7 8 8 7 2 5

6 6 4

1 Upper collar; 4 Under collar stand; 7 Upper sleeve plackets; 2 Under collar; 5 Yoke pieces; 8 Under sleeve plackets; 3 Upper collar stand; 6 Cus; 9 Front placket place;

2. BASTING THE SHIRT 2.1

Baste the shirt for a possible tting. The shirt can be basted in the following order: 1. Baste the darts; 2. Sew all the seams;

Shirt 3. Use safety pins to close up the closure, to look at the prototype ont 2 (muslin) results.

3. DARTS 3.1

Upper Under Yoke Yoke

Sleeve2

Shirt Back

Shirt Shirt Front 1 Front 2 S S l l e e e e v v e e C C u u f f f f 2 1

darts

UpperCollar

Under

Depending on your body measurements your garment can include several waist andUnderCollarStand bust darts. The

UpperCollarStand

Upper Under total amount of darts may dier from the technical drawing.Yoke Yoke S l

Shirt e Back e v e U n d e r P l a c k e t 1 S l e S S e l l e e v e e e v v U e e p C C p u u S e f f l r e f f P e 2 1 l v a e c U k e n t d 2 e r P l a c k e t 2 TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 6 SEWING 3.2

stitch direction

Fold the dart. Match the notches and dart lines (fold by dart center line). Sew the darts. Sew starting at the raw edge.

3.3

Press the darts - waist and shoulder darts should be pressed toward the center. Bust darts should be pressed toward the hem. Always start at the broad end on the dart and press toward the point. 4. YOKE AND SHOULDER SEAMS

4.1

front

under yoke

upper yoke

Sew the yokes to the front and back. back

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 7 SEWING 5. SIDE SEAMS

5.1

Sew the shirt side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and seamlines.

6. PLACKET

6.1

Fold and press the front placket part to the WS. Fold to the fold lines.

6.2

Sew the front placket part and hemline in place.

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 8 SEWING 7. COLLAR

13/8” (4.5 cm)

0.7” 0.7” (1.75 cm) (1.75 cm)

1” (2.5 cm) 11/4” (3 cm) stand collar width at the half of the front

Upper collar is larger than the udder collar.

7.1

Sew the upper collar and the under collar together.

7.2

ease the collar Place the collar between the collar stands and stitch together. between the notches While you sew, you need to gather collar between the notches. Place the right side of the under collar stand to the right side of the under collar and the right side of the upper collar stand to the right side of the upper collar.

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 9 SEWING 7.3

Sew the collar to the neckline.

8. SLEEVE PLACKET

8.1

Press the seam allowance 1/4″ (6 mm) of the sleeve placket. Fold with wrong sides together.

8.2

Sew the right side of the plackets to the wrong side of the sleeve. Cut a slit between the two pieces, and when it is within about 1/2" (1.3 cm) of the top of the box, cut toward the corners of the box (through all layers), like you are cutting a “Y”.

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 10 SEWING 8.3

Turn the pieces to the right side of the sleeve. Press it with your iron to create a crisp hollow box opening. Edge stitch through all layers under placket.

8.4

Edge stitch the upper sleeve placket. RS WS

9. SLEEVES

9.1

Sewing the sleeve seams, between the notches, the back seam needs to be gathered. The total amount of ease is 5/8” (1.5 cm). Sewing the sleeve seams, the front seam needs stretching. The total amount of stretch should not be more than 3/8” (1 cm). Sew the back sleeve seam to the front sleeve seam, with the right sides together. Press the seams. notches

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 11 SEWING 9.2 fold the fabric in the direction of the arrow matching the vertical lines

1/4”

Depending on your sleeve width your sleeve can include several pleats. The total amount of pleats may dier from the technical drawing. The pleats fold toward the place of the fastening or elbow seam. The rst pleat is always larger than the next ones. The pleat at the back of the placket is usually no larger than 3/8” - 3/4” (1-2 cm). Fold and staystitch the pleats. Fold the pleats to the fold line.

10. CUFF

10 .1

Sew the cu to the sleeve.

11. SET IN SLEEVE

11.1

1/5 1/5

1/5 1/5 The base construction of the armscye has notches for sewing the sleeve and the picture shows how the ease is distributed between them. 1/5 This is a place where the sleeve is never held in order to avoid unnecessary cross-creases in the upper arm of the sleeve. front back

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 12 SEWING 11.2

The highest ease is required between the center and the front 1st control point, while the lowest is between the 1st and 2nd front control point.

11.3

Run two rows of machine gathering stitches between the notches on the sleeve cap. Place one row on the seamline, and the other row 1/8” (3 mm) outside of the stitching line toward the raw edge. Pin the sleeve into the armscye, matching all the markings. Draw up the gathering threads so that the sleeve ts perfectly into the armscye. Distribute the fullness evenly. Remove the sleeve from the garment. Fasten the gathering threads. Stitch seam, holding sleeve topmost. Control the distribution of ease and stitch straight.

TIGHT SHIRT BASE FDI421 Page 13 SEWING