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Creating a Sloper - with the GRD Method (us #GRDmethod, #Moulage, #MakingAMoulage, & @GinRene Design o Instagra)

COPYRIGHT C GINA RENEE 2020 Tools & Supplies oaktag or two pieces of poster board pointed tracing wheel pencil, sharperner, and eraser pattern weights grid ruler hip curve french curve notcher (or pointy scissors) awl (or pointy scissors) scissors (for cutting paper) Scotch matte tape (magic tape) Pattern hooks (optional) Large hole puncher (optional) Using the Notcher/Notch Tracing “Notch tracing” refers to making small slits as reference points to align pattern pieces while sewing or to manipulate your sloper into style patterns. When instructed to make a notch, you will simply make small notches in your paper board or fabric at the designated space with a notcher or scissors.

1 COPYRIGHT C GINA RENEE 2020 All rights reserved. No part of this guide can be copied, filmed or reproduced in any way without written consent of Gina Renee Designs. Creating a Blouse / Dress Sloper When you’ve finished all of the fit corrections for your moulage, you will add “ease over body” to it to make your sloper. This is the main difference between a moulage and sloper; a sloper has ease added to it.

“Ease over body” is the amount of extra room we add to garments, either to move more easily (movement ease) or to change the silhouette (design ease). Because this is such a huge (and fun!) topic, we will get into much more detail about wearing ease in future classes.

There are some garment styles for which you wouldn’t necessarily need to make a sloper and could just use the moulage: tight, strapless dresses; corsets; bras; eveningwear that is tight in the bust; and some garments made with stretchy woven fabrics. However, for most styles, you’re going to need added ease for movement and comfort.

There are many different methods for creating a sloper from your moulage. For instance, some people like to shift the shoulder and armhole darts into the side darts. This is an option, but I like to leave my slopers with all original darts in place. You can always shift or close darts later based on the style of garment you’re making, and this leaves you with more options to design.

This lesson will give you an intro into making your own woven blouse/dress sloper directly from your moulage. Future courses will cover sloper-making for layers like blazers, jackets, and coats; for those projects, your moulage will still be the base, and more ease over body is needed.

For the main circumference of the bust, waist, and chest, you may choose 1” (2.5cm), 1 ½” (4cm), or 2” (5cm) ease amounts (you can also adjust ease based on your preferences, giving even more ease). Think of the body in terms of a quarter (four parts); if you want 1” ease, you would add ¼” to each side seam on the front and back panels (two front panel side seams + two back side seams = four parts).

If you want more ease, you can give 1 ½” (3/8” per panel) or 2” (1/2” per panel) at the side seams. Some people like more wearing ease at the bust, so you could go up to 3” (3/4” per panel). If your garment style goes to the low hip, I suggest a minimum 2” and even more is better for some styles. When you want to change the amount of wearing ease as mentioned above, the only points that change are the side seams. All the other points remain the same. However, when we add a lot of ease, the princess/Apex lines may need to move out at the apex/waist.

You will make your slopers without any seam allowances, since we will always add them to the style pattern rather than the slopers. As a reminder, you can write “no seam allowanc- es” on your slopers. I also suggest using Oak Tag or posterboard to make your slopers; it’s an easy way to work with shifting darts around for your style patterns.

On the following pages, the ease over body is marked per point “Fxx” or “Bxx”. Follow the direction of the arrows to shift the pattern and add the appropriate ease. These examples are for 3/8” (1cm) for each side seam, for a total of 1 1/2”. If you want more, the only number that will change are the side seam amounts. All other amounts will remain the same. You’ll notice pages 4-5 are in Inches (imperial). Pages 6-7 are in Centimeters (Metric). Ignore the pages which you don’t need. COPYRIGHT C GINA RENEE 2020 2 All rights reserved. No part of this guide can be copied, filmed, or reproduced in any way without written consent of Gina Renee Designs. If Ease was Easier, Life would be more Simple...

Finding the right amount of ease means trialing out different amounts until you’re pleased. Follow the video for my suggestion in trialing out ease amounts. You will follow the video and do your first sloper on paper (not oaktag/board), mark it on your fabric, add seam allowances (1” (2.5cm) on the side seams), and follow the tips in the video before sewing it up.

Since every person has a different level of tightness to their moulage, you may even increase your ease amounts significantly more than 2” (5cm). Here is a guide below for different options.

Total Ease amount Quarter Amount (circumference of the garment) (as added to the side seams) 1” (2.5cm) This is a snug-fitting garment! 1/4” (0.6cm) 1 1/2” (4cm) This is still a slim fitting garment 3/8” (1cm) 2” (5cm) This is more Regular fitting garment 1/2” (1.3cm) 2 1/2” (6.4cm) 5/8” (6.4cm) 3” (8cm) 3/4” (2cm) 3 1/2” (8.8cm) 7/8” (8.8cm) 4” (10cm) 1” (2.5cm)

The larger the person, the more ease you will want. The more petite you are, the less ease you will want.

In the video, we will have enough seam allowance on our samples to cover up to even to 4 1/2” (11.4cm) ease amounts. However, if you do end up having this much ease, you may need to move your apex/ waist dart line over towards your side seam more in your fitting.

Once you’ve fit your Sloper sample and you’re pleased with the ease amounts, transfer the pattern to oaktag/board and that’s your final sloper!

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and highand hip. high hip F22 3/8”

low hip F23

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high hip B20 3/8”

low hip B21 3/8” 5 ress Sloper Metric (cm) - Front Blouse /Dress Sloper Notch all darts, keeping the width of Notch waist darts the exact same on the new lines. So, and high hip. if the side dart is 3.1cm wide on the Use the awl to moulage, it should also be 3.1cm wide on punch holes the sloper. where shown. F22 1.9cmF12 3/8” F24 F11 1cm 1cm 1cm 1cm F7 1.5mm 1cm F9 6mm

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waistline 6mm low hip low high hip high F4

F25 center front F23 F3 1.3cm

notch Pretend like the front bust dart doesn’t exist for the standard Make the CF line blouse/dress sloper. However, you straight. can still notch the dart legs and use it for wrap dresses or low notcher v-necks.

Leave the darts going straight to the apex. For the sloper, I like to keep all the darts going directly to the apex for easier dart manipulation. Then, adjust the dart points to be further away from the apex on the style pattern level.

When you make the style patterns, you’ll move the points of the darts to be from the apex the follow amounts for your cup size: 2cm = A cup 2.5cm = B cup 3cm = C cup 3.5cm = D cup 4.5cm = E cup 5cm = any size over an E cup 6 loper 6mm dart Notch B3 knee or floor). Do this on the style pattern, not the s the not pattern, style the on this Do floor). kneeor simp would you dress, a into this turn wantto you If awl 6mm Metric(cm) B8 3mm 1.5mm darts. points/shapes of the indicating sloper, your in holes punchan awl Use to B1 B6 1.3cm B24 1cm straight line. straight a on takewill CB then your backdarts, your of size the increased you’ve After 1.9cm - Back Blouse /Dress Sloper /Dress Blouse Back - center back center new center back bust amount on each side of the dart. the of side each on amount the of backhalfPlace darts. the into it shift back Then, line. lineandnew CBcenter straight the between amount Measurethe notch B16 1cm side seam and at CB. seamandat side on andhip waist Notch B0 ly make the length longer (to the the (to longer length makelythe waistline loper. B7

high hip B20 1cm

low hip B21 1cm 7 loper You’re finished! Congratulations! I am so proud of your Accomplishment & I hope you are, too. Time to celebrate! Join the sewing community group on Instagra or Facebook by searching for @GinaReneeDesigns or “Gina Renee Designs.” PLEASE SHARE photos of your moulage on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest. Don’t forget to tag @GinaReneeDesigns and use hashtags #GRDmethod, #Moulage, #MakingAMoulage By posting on social media, it will help inspire others to achieve thier goals too (and it helps me tremendously!)

You’re amazing. I knew you could do this. I believe in you and your abilities; Imagine the possibilities ahead of you!

Enjoy Creativity. Realize howTalented I am. Value My Unique Creations. Am Proud of my Sewing Skills. Can Pass on Sewing Knowledge to others. Can Keep Hand-Crafted items for Generations. Gina Renee Designs Promotes the Art of Sewing to Create a More Sustainable and Creative World

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