Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

How to use this workbook:

• Choose the pattern size that fits your bust. • Sew a Fit Muslin • Use the fit muslin to identify the adjustments you need. • Record the adjustments on the Fit Muslin Worksheet. • Follow the detailed instructions and adjust your pattern as needed. • Use the adjusted pattern to cut out your customized fit muslin. • Evaluate the fit and make any additional adjustments that are necessary. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

Front Back

Slope of shoulder

Shorten/lengthen armhole* Adjust upper back if needed

Raise/lower bust fullness/ Adjust upper back if needed

Raise/lower for waistline

Lengthen/shorten hem

Horizontal Adjustments Shoulder length

Across chest/back

Ease at side seams at hip

Forward Shoulder

Sleeve Adjustments: (Slash sleeve above notches *Lengthen/shorten Sleeve to adjust cap) Cap (The same amount you raised (shorten) or low- ered (lengthen) the armhole

Increase the bicep Measurement

Decrease Fullness in Sleeve

How to Adjust Your Pattern for a Better Fit

Order of Pattern Adjustments:

• Adjust pattern so that all key areas are in the correct spot vertically (slope of shoulder, bust, waist, hip) • Adjust shoulder (length of shoulder, forward shoulder) • Adjust the muslin for fit in the bust and across chest/back • Adjust for ease across back • Adjust for ease in mid drift, waist and hip

After these adjustments have been completed, sew a custom fit muslin to test the fit.

Adjust fit muslin to smooth wrinkles (Wrinkles generally point to the problem.) For example if you have wrinkles from the armhole to the bust, you may need to fine tune the fit.

The Fit Muslin Refer to the pattern instructions for information about choosing the best size to start with. To con- struct a fit muslin, you will need the following pattern pieces: • Front • Button placket • Back • Sleeve Use a 3/4” seam allowance to sew the button placket to the front edges of the shirt, shoulder and side seams. Use a 1/2” seam allowance to sew underarm seam on sleeve. Use 1/2” seam allowance to set sleeves into armholes. Stay stitch 1/2” along neck opening.

Shoulder slope is the angle of your shoulder from the base of your neck to the tip of your shoulder. The angle of the shoulder seam on the pattern can be significantly different from the slope of your shoulder. If the shoulder seams do not agree with the slope of your shoulders, your shirt will not hang properly from your shoulders.

The first step is to determine which end of the shoulder seam needs to be adjusted.

1. The shoulder seam is peaking up above your shoulder at the base of the neck.

• Pin out the excess fabric under the seam at the neck. • Blend to the original seam where it sits flat against your shoulder. • Mark the new shoulder seam. • Stitch along new seam line. • Test fit for accuracy before cutting off excess fabric. • The correct shoulder slope is illustrated in red.

2. The shoulder seam is peaking up above the tip of your shoulder.

• Pin out the excess fabric under the seam at the tip of the shoulder. • Blend to the original seam where it sits flat against your shoulder. • Mark the new shoulder seam. • Stitch along new seam line. • Test fit for accuracy before cutting off excess fabric. • The correct shoulder slope is illustrated in red. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop • How to adjust a shoulder seam that is too far forward

The shoulder seam is really a “style line”. Traditionally it sits centered along the top of your shoulder. Unlike the slope of the shoulder seam, the actual position of the shoulder seam does not affect the fit of the shirt, just the appearance. If the shoulder seam looks like it is sitting too far forward at the neck edge you can straighten it by adding to the front shoulder edge and taking a like amount away from the back shoulder edge.

1. To the Front Shoulder Seam. Add the amount needed to push the shoulder seam back. (For example 1/2”.) • Measure up from the original edge at the neckline the amount you need to add. • Draw the new shoulder edge by as shown.

2. To the Back Shoulder Seam. Trim off the like amount that was added to the Front. • Measure down from the original edge at the neckline the amount you added to the front (1/2”). • Draw the new shoulder edge (dashed line). Trim off the excess. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

• How to shorten the armhole

If you typically need to petit your pattern pieces, you may need to shorten your armhole. Adjusting the armhole can accomplish two fitting challenges. First, I can make the sleeve fit better. Secondly, it will also raise the fullness of the bust. If the fullness in the bust is in the correct position before you shorten the armhole, you may need to lower the bust fullness after shortening the armhole.

1. Shorten the front armhole.

• Pin out the excess length across the front of your fit muslin. • Stitch along the pins to pleat out the excess length. • Test fit for accuracy before adjusting pattern pieces. • The excess fabric pleated out in this example is illustrated in red. • Adjust the sleeve cap by pleating out EQUAL AMOUNTS.

2. Shorten the back armhole. (If may not be necessary to shorten both the front and back armholes.)

• Pin out the excess length across the back of your fit muslin. • Stitch along the pins to pleat out the excess length. • Test fit for accuracy before adjusting pattern pieces. • The excess fabric pleated out in this example is illustrated in red. • Adjust the sleeve cap by pleating out EQUAL AMOUNTS. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

• How to raise/lower the fullness in the bust

Getting the fullness of the bust in the correct position is very important. Essentially that means positioning the bust dart approximately an inch below the apex. If the dart is too low or too high, it’s impossible to determine if you need to adjust the bust for more or less ease.

To raise or lower the dart, cut along guideline and slide the dart up or down as needed. (There is a guideline printed on the pattern for moving the dart.)

To raise the bust fullness: To lower the bust full- • Cut along the guide- ness: line and slide the dart • Cut along the guide- up the amount you line and slide the dart need. down the amount you • If you’re working with need. a fit muslin, patch the • If you’re working with space under the dart a fit muslin, patch the with a strip of fabric. space above the dart • To make this adjust- with a strip of fabric. ment to your pattern, • To make this adjust- fill the space under ment to your pattern, the dart with pattern fill the space above paper. Blend the side the dart with pattern seam. paper. Blend the side seam. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

• How lengthen or shorten the position of the waistline and hem

The waistline is the most narrow feature on the front and back shirt pattern. It’s important to get the position of the waistline printed on the pattern to agree with where your waistline is. (Where your smallest waistline measurement is.)

To raise the waistline: • Pin up the excess length above the waistline. (There is a lengthen/shorten line printed on the pattern.) • Sew along pins to pleat out the excess length. • To transfer this adjustment to your pattern, pleat out the excess along the lengthen/shorten line and tape in place. Waist

To lower the waistline: • Cut through the muslin above the waistline. • Sew a strip of muslin to the upper section of the muslin. • Mark a guideline (parallel to the slash) on the strip that adds the amount needed to position the waistline correctly. • Sew the lower section of the muslin along the guideline. Waist • To transfer this adjustment to your pattern, slash along the lengthen/shorten line. • Anchor the top section of the pattern on a piece of pattern paper. • Mark the amount necessary to lower the waistline to the correct position. • Anchor the lower portion of the pattern along the marked guideline. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop • How to lengthen the shoulder

There is a 1/2” seam allowance along the armhole. The fit muslin should extend 1/2” past the tip of your shoulder. If you need to adjust the shoulder, check the fit across the upper back before using this pattern adjustment. If you need to adjust the upper back too, you can accomplish both in one adjustment. (See “how to adjust the upper back.”)

To lengthen shoulder: • Draw a guideline that starts in the center of the shoulder seam, extends down to the upper back and ends in the armhole as shown to the left. • Draw a matching guideline on the front of the fit muslin. Connect them at the shoulder. • Cut muslin along guideline. • Sew a strip of muslin to the cut edge of the outside shoulder piece. • Mark the amount needed on the strip. • Sew the strip onto the inside shoulder along the guideline.

To transfer this adjustment to your pattern.

• Draw guidelines on front and back pattern pieces. Cut on guideline. • Tape a strip of pattern paper to the outside shoulder. • Mark the amount needed along the strip • Anchor the inside shoulder along guideline. • True-up armhole as shown Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop • How to shorten the shoulder

To shorten shoulder: • Draw a guideline that starts in the center of the shoulder seam, extends down to the upper back and ends in the armhole as shown to the left. • Draw a matching guideline on the front of the fit muslin. Connect them at the shoulder. • Cut muslin along guideline. • Mark the amount of excess length along the slash on the inner shoulder. • Align the outer shoulder with the guideline (over- lapping the two pieces) and sew in place.

To transfer this adjustment to your pattern.

• Draw guidelines on front and back pattern pieces. • Cut on guideline. • Mark the amount of excess along inner shoulder edge. • Anchor the outer shoulder along guideline. • True-up armhole as shown to the right Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop • How to adjust the fit of the upper back

If the upper back of your muslin is too snug, here’s how to adjust the fit muslin.

In this example the length of the shoulder is correct. Pivot the outer shoulder out, adding to the upper back only. The length of the shoulder stays the same.

• Draw a guideline that starts in the center of the shoulder seam, extends through the upper back and ends approximately 2” under the armhole as shown to the left. • Cut muslin along guideline. • Sew a strip of muslin to the cut edge of the outside shoulder piece. • Mark the amount needed on the strip. • Sew the strip onto the inside shoulder along the guideline.

To transfer this adjustment to your pattern.

• Draw guidelines back pattern piece. Cut on guideline. • Tape a strip of pattern paper to the outside shoulder. • Mark the amount needed along the strip • Position the outer shoulder together with inner shoulder along shoulder seam. Pivot the outer shoulder out so that the inner shoulder is aligned with guideline. • Anchor inner shoulder along guideline • True-up armhole as shown to the right Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop • How to adjust the fit of the upper back

If the upper back of your muslin is too loose, here’s how to adjust the fit muslin.

In this example the length of the shoulder is correct. Pivot the outer shoulder out, adding to the upper back only. The length of the shoulder stays the same.

• Draw a guideline that starts in the center of the shoulder seam, extends through the upper back and ends approximately 2” under the armhole as shown to the left. • Cut muslin along guideline.. • Mark the amount needed take in along inner shoulder. • Align outer shoulder along guideline, and sew in place. • True-up side seam.

• How to adjust the fit of the upper back AND the length of the shoulder

In this example Both the upper back and shoulder need more width. Use the guideline illustrated here and follow the instructions for “How to lengthen or shorten the shoulder.”

• Here’s an illustration of how this adjustment looks when the shoulder and the upper back both need more room. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop • How to take in the side seams for less ease

If you need less room through the waistline.

• Start by taking the side seams in. • Adjust the waist darts. The amount of dart intake can be increased. • If the hem is too loose, you can take in the side seams along the hip.

• How to Add Ease Through the Waist and Hips

Draw vertical guidelines from the base of the armhole, center of the shoulder seam and neckline as shown below. Then slash through hem edge up to but not through the armhole, shoulder and neckline edges to create pivot points. Spread pattern along each slashed guideline to create room through waistline and hip. You can also relax the waistline shaping along the side seam to make more room in the waist. Position pattern paper under slashed pieces and secure with scotch tape. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

Here is an example of how to make more room across the shoulder, chest and upper back.

• Let out the bust to make more room

This is my fitted shirt muslin. When I started working on this project, it fit perfectly. Then life hap- pened and I had to put it on the back burner for a couple of months. When I tried it on again, it was too snug across the bust, shoulders and back. :)

Here’s a front view

And a back view Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

I need to add to the shoulder length, across the upper back and bust.

• In the front. Draw a guideline from the center of the shoulder to approximately 2 inches under the bust dart.

• In the back. Connect the guideline at the center of the shoulder. Continue down the upper back and connect the guideline with the front guideline at the side seam. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

Determine how much extra room I need.

• Allow the muslin to spread open by cutting along the guideline. • In the front, you can see that I need width and length.

In the back I need width, but the length is OK.

To complete this adjustment in the fit muslin

• Sew a strip of fabric along the slashed edges of the outer shoulder side. This is accomplished in two steps. First sew a strip up the vertical edge from below the bust, straight through the shoulder down to the base of the slash in the back. Then I added shorter strips along the horizontal slash. • Mark the amount that is needed. • Pin the inner shoulder along the guideline marked on the strip. Sew in place.

Here’s how the fit muslin looks after the fabric strip has been sewn in place. Notice the small “hole” in the side seam. I let the side seams out to make more room below the bust. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

How to transfer this adjustment to the pattern pieces

• Draw the guidelines on the pattern pieces. • Slash along guidelines. • Position pattern pieces on pattern paper. • Spread pattern pieces the amount needed • Tape in place.

Here’s how the pattern pieces look after the adjustment has been made. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

If the length of your shoulder is OK, you can create a pivot point to add room to the bust and upper back without changing the length of the shoulder seam.

If you only need room across the bust, upper back and shoulders, blend the side seam back to the original seam at the hip. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

I used the adjusted pattern to make a second fit muslin. Here’s how it fits.

This muslin fits much better, but it feels tight across the back and shoulders. There are also some stress wrinkles pointing to the bust.

This is an example of when it might be tempting to do a full bust adjustment to smooth the wrinkles. The front of the shirt is pulling against the front because it’s tight in the shoulders and upper back... not because the cup size is too small. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

How to add room in the shoulders to make more room across back and bust.

If you’re not sure that this adjustment is going to work, trace a copy of your sleeve, so you have the original to go back to if needed.

To make more room, extend the underarm seam up 1/2”, and fill in the curve at the back and front side of the sleeve cap.

• Use a French curve to dash in a more shallow curve as shown below. • Filling in the original curve will create a new edge that is shorter than the original. • Because we want to sew this sleeve to the original armhole, the length of the new curve needs to be equal to the original curve. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

• Use a clear grid ruler to measure the original curve along the sleeve cap.

• Measure the length of the new curve. • Extend the new curve past the underarm seam so that it equals the original curve. • In this example, I had to extend the new curve 3/8” Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

• Finish this adjustment by drawing in the new curve. • Blend the end of the extended curve into the original underarm seam at the wrist.

Repeat this adjustment on the front side of the sleeve cap. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

Using the adjusted sleeve, here’s how my third fit muslin fits. It is significantly more comfortable through the shoulders and upper back. The wrinkles at the bust are also smoothed out.

Now I’m satisfied with the fit of my pattern and I can start working on a shirt in fashion fabric! Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

Here is an example of how to take in the bust and waist

• Take in the Bust Cup + Add a Waist Dart

The muslin on this fit model is too loose.

• It needs to be taken in the bust • Initially the waist darts were omitted. To create a more fitted silhouette, the waist darts will be stitched.

How to take in the bust by making the bust dart smaller

• Create a horizontal pleat across the apex to take up the excess vertical length. • Create a dart from the front armhole notch to the apex. Starting at the apex, pinch out a like amount (equal to amount pleated out horizontally) gradually pinch- ing less as you progress toward the arm- Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

To take in bust dart, slash Here is an pattern along horizontal illustration line. Then slash diagonal showing where line from cut edge to but to draw the not through the armhole. guidelines to Pleat out the excess in the take in the bust dart at the base of the bust and add a diagonal slash. Then over- waist dart. lap bottom portion of the pattern to remove the rest. True up the new dart legs.

• Take in The High Bust (Chest) and Shorten Shoulder in one adjustment

If the shoulder seam is too long, it can create excess fabric across the high bust (Chest). Reducing the Cup size does not fix this. You can shorten the shoulder and take out excess fabric across the high bust in one adjustment. Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

You can see the excess fabric here.

• Draw a horizontal line across the pattern along or just above the top dart leg. • Draw a diagonal line from the center of the shoulder to the horizontal line. • Slash the pattern along the horizontal line. • Slash pattern through shoulder to the base of the diagonal line to create a pivot point. • Overlap pattern at shoulder to shorten it the amount you need. • Reposition the adjusted pattern back along the horizontal line • Repeat to shorten the back shoulder • True up side seams. Walk to make sure they still sew together.

When you overlap the shoulder edges, this will create a small opening at the side seam edge because of the pivot point. This will slightly lengthen the side seams.

Shorten Shorten Front guidelines front shoulder back shoulder Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workshop

• Take in The Sleeve that is too full.

Draw guidelines as shown. A vertical line from wrist to 4” Bicep line below the bicep (a). A diagonal line from the edge of the cap to the top of the vertical line (b). And a horizontal line from underarm edge to the intersection of the vertical and diagonal lines (c). (b) Pivots • Slash along line (a) from wrist to intersection of (b). (c) • Slash along line (b) from line (a) to but not through edge of sleeve to create a pivot point • Slash along line (c) from line (a) to but not through the (a) underarm edge to create a second pivot point. • Pivot the white portion of the pattern in so it overlaps 1/2” the total amount the fullness needs to be reduced. • If the wrist edge become too narrow, you can add some width back in (red section). • Repeat for the front side of the sleeve.

• How to Increase the Sleeve at the Bicep New Sleeve Cap • Trace a copy of the sleeve. Vertical Lines • Mark vertical lines from the edge of the original underarm seam. • Mark 1/2” the amount you need to add to the Original bicep on each side by drawing a second verti- Sleeve Cap cal line that is parallel to the first line. • Position sleeve pattern on the traced copy • Pin sleeve to copy at the center of the cap • Pivot the sleeve out until the end of the cap meets the second vertical line. (Blue Pattern) • Trace new position of the back cap from the edge of the cap to the pivot point. • Then Pivot the sleeve in the opposite direction (Gray Sleeve). Trace the front sleeve cap.

The Overall Length of the Sleeve Cap is NOT affected. It’s not necessary to adjust the armhole.