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Twentieth Century Instruction Book; Artistic Ladies

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Twentieth Century Instruction Book; Artistic Ladies ZLwentietb Century Instruction Book 7"^ ARTISTIC Cadie^ Sailor System • . - MWI^ Innnill (.COPYRIGHTED) VIENNA LADES' TAILORING INSTITUTE 5 W. 14th ST.. NEW YORK CITY. U. S. A. / " — . MAY. 7 '902 CLASS? CV XXC. NO. TO TAKE MEASURE. aim** TO TAKE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER. COPY " BUST.—Stand behind the lady—This measure is Stand behind the lady, place the center of the tape taken over the most prominent point of the bust and line across the back of the neck. Carry the ends for- S well up over the shoulder blades in the back—take this ward over the shoulder, bringing them back under the " measure easy, not tight," just so that the tape line arms (have the lady raise her arms slightly), and draw will be smooth—put this—measure down I inch more very snug straight across the back and place a pin or than the tape line calls for " do not forget this. mark at the upper edge of the tape line, in the center WAIST.—Take this measure around the smallest of back, then measure from the large joint in the neck part of the waist tight, and deduct one inch. to the pin or mark. This measure must be taken FRONT.—From collar bone to waist line in front exactly as the instructions call for. Do not deviate i add 1 inch to this measure. of an inch. See special instruction for applying this BACK —From joint in neck to waist line. measure. , UNDER ARM.—Take this measure well up under Measure down line A from line B the height of shoul- the arm and down to the waist line—put this measure der measure and place dot X. Measure up line A from " " down i inch less than the tape line calls for. dot X 1 inch less than \ of the arm's eye measure and Around the bare neck easy. NECK.— \ of the bust measure straight out and place dot 1 1 Around the snug just over the ARM'S EYE.— arm Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line H to dot 1 1 . point of the shoulder. Finish the balance as per general instructions. ARM MEASURE. Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have 1st. From point of shoulder to point of elbow the — a narrow back in proportion to their bust , measure. hand resting on the chest. Take the width of back measure., starting at the cen- 2d. From point of elbow to joint on wrist. ter of back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the 3d. Around the largest part of the arm below the neck and measuring to the arm hole (or where the arm shoulder with the arm bent take this measure — hole should come). Use this measure instead of \ of snug. the bust measure in locating dot 1 1 . Take a 42 bust 4th. Around the largest part of the arm below the and a 25 waist measure. Should the width of back be elbow take this measure in the same manner. — 6 it would indicate that the back should be drafted for 5th. Around the hand tight a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. Draft line E begin- SKIRT. From waist line the length desired. — ning at dot 2. In drafting the front take the differ- HIPS. Around the hips "easy" six inches below — ence between 42 and 36 (the measure used in drafting the waist line. 4 the back), which is 6. Now take § of 6— —and add this to 42 would make 46. Now use a 46 bust and 25 waist measure in drafting the front. Use these same propor- TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER. tions in drafting for other measures. Be very careful in taking the back and under arm IMPORTANT.—The measure should be taken ex- measure. For a regular form a 16 inch back would actly as the instructions call for—do not deviate to require an 8 inch under arm. Should the under arm please anyone. The bust, waist and neck measures are measure nine inches it would indicate a high shoulder taken in even inches—for instance, should the waist 23 and dot 1 should be only three inches from dot 9. measure be 23, put down —should it be nearest 22, Should the under arm measure be but 7 inches for a put it down 22—take the bust and neck measure in 16 inch back it would indicate a low shoulder and dot the same manner. 1 should be 5 inphes^fro-m dot 9.. This prpportion will See that the lady stands natural and on both feet. apply to othejf meaeureii-^ar: initanca :*tf ".the back Ask if she has the same clothing on that she intends measure is 17, then the under arm measure should be to wear the dress over, and especially inquire about the 9 inches. ^^"iV:\:l:\-. *:.••. corset. To have a perfect fit you must have a perfeet measure. If you have any doubt about the measure take it TO MEASURE FOR CHILDREN. over again before the lady leaves. Do not use a cord or belt in taking the measure (except for children) as Tie a cord around the waist tight and press down it will make your basque short waisted in back and to the point of mps, and take the measure the same front. For a very full bust the front measure should as for adults, except the waist measure, which is taken be taken from 1$ to 2 inches longer than the tape line loose. calls for. These measurements are Copyrighted and must be used only in connection with our system. \b~9Q£l LUirev 'J BUST BUST 31 BUST 32 BUST 33 Waist —21 . CENTER BACK. Draft lines A and B -'4' inch fr° m the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table according to size of neck dot 2 down line A fr° m 'i ne B and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 For long shoulders draft line H Vx inch longer than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 1 Measure straight down from dot I I and 3/6 inch in and place dot 12. Use letter V to draft line K. Bust ... 3 + Waist -- " Front . _.--.... 14 Back -. - 16 Under Arm 8 Neck _ 11 Ann's Eve - - ' 6 To Locate Dot 12. Arm's Eye Measure. 12, 13 and 14 — 15 " 16 — I? << 18—2^ 19 " 20 % 21 " 22 23/ 3U&.C For long C SW\ SViA BIAS DART. Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the following changes : l Place dot on line 1 9 E /> inches from dot 6. yi, Measure 1 inches out from dot 13 and place new dot 13. Place the mark y2 on new dot 13 and draft to dot 15. Draft line parallel with line N. Measure 1 inches straight out from y2 dot ^ and place new dot 7. Measure 3{ inch straight up from new dot 1 and place dot X. Draft from dot X to dot 13. Place the corner of square on dot X the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot the length of X under arm and place new dot 6. Place letter on dot A X and draft line E to new dot 6. Measure inches straight out from 3^ new dot ^ and place dot 18. Measure inches ; straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. Place letter A on dot X and draft to dot 19. Draft the shoulder the same as for a plain waist, making dot 23 2 inches up from line J} and drafting to new dot 6. For a stout lady with high or full shoulders, place a new dot 2 Y\ inch above dot and place a 2 new dot 3 3/j[ inch above dot 3 and draft according to dotted lines. For slender forms take a small plait in the lining at the point of the bias dart. See dotted lines. WAIST WITH ONE DART. Draft the same as for a plain waist down to the darts, omitting line E- Measure )A inch from dot 8 on line f and place dot 10- Place the mark on }4 dot 10 and draft line H to dot 4. Extend line H to meet line A 3 inches below dot 8- Measure inches from dot 2^ 10 and place dot H on line F- Measure 1 inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot 1 1 and place dot 12- Measure straight up from the center of the dart and place dot 14 on line G- Place the mark V2 on dot \\ and draft line I to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line J. Draft lines L and M straight down. Measure % inch in from dot ^ and place dot 15. Measure }< inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot X. Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line E to dot X. Place letter on dot and draft to meet line A 6 E 3 inches down from dot 6- See diagram. Measure 3 inches out from dot 15 and place dot 18- Measure inches 5 straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line P to dot 19. THE TAILOR-MADE DRESS. There is just one for way a gentlewoman to dress when she goes on the street, and that is in a tailor-made suit, without ornamentation, but the perfection of fit and workmanship.
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