Sarah's Tips for Sewing, Tapering, and Pressing a Dart to Sew a Dart

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Sarah’s Tips for Sewing, Tapering, and Pressing a Dart To sew a dart, start at the waist seam and sew towards the dart point. In order to avoid getting a bubble at the dart point, taper the dart when you sew. The following illustration and written description explain this technique. To start, fold the dart in half, matching the two dart legs (the folded edge is at the top of the illustration). Sew along the dart leg (black line) until you are about 1-1/2” to 2” away from the dart point. Then gradually sew closer to the folded edge – i.e., taper your stitches – so that the last two or three stitches are right along the fold line. Leave long thread tails, tie a double square knot (right over left, left over right; repeat), and clip the thread tails about 1/2” from the knot. To press a dart, use a pressing ham and place one of the rounded edges of the ham under the dart point, having the wrong side of the garment against the ham, and having the dart intake oriented towards the center of the garment (center front for the pants front and center back for the pants back). Press the dart; use a circular motion over the rounded part of the ham and the dart point. First steam the dart from above, then press and steam with the iron’s surface barely touching the work. Using these techniques, you’ll avoid having a bubble at your dart point, plus you’ll build in nice three-dimensionality, which of course is the purpose of a dart! .

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