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OCCUPATIONAL SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

SHORT COURSE For Papua New Guinea Non-Formal Sector

GARMENT PRODUCTION Types of TH007viii

RATIONALE

This short course was developed as a resource material for the trainer. This module is one in a series of nine, which covers all competences standard Types of Seams for in level one Garment Production. Due to the demand STRU has developed this short course for the community and other stake holder to have better knowledge and skills in producing quality garments. Furthermore the course aim is to create a link for training those unskilled people in the community to have the opportunity to learn the basic construction skills in garment production.

p o box 1097, waigani national capital district papua new guinea. tel: (675) 323 2633 The development of this short course was sponsored by the ADB-PNG fax: (675) 323 0944 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT (EOSDP) and produced by curriculum officers at the SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT (STRU) NOT FOR SALE Types of Hems

TABLE OF CONTENT

CONTENTS Pages

Course Outline 2

Curriculum Guide 3

Competency Profile • Types of Hems

Overview of Learning Outcomes 4 - 6 • Turned-up edge • Faced edge • Enclosed edge

Instructional Notes 7 – 11 • Sew turned-up edge • Sew faced edge • Sew enclosed edge

Attachments 12 – 14 • Hems • Safety rules

Acknowledgement 10

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 1 Types of Hems

COURSE OUTLINE: Types of Hems

Program: TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY

Course: GARMENT PRODUCTION

Module Code: THTH007vii

Module Name: Types of Hems

Module1: Workplace Health and Safety

Module 2: Learning to Sew

Module 3: Basic Hand Stitches

Module 4: Decorative Stitches

Module 5: Seams

Module 6: Types of Fullness

Module 7: Types of Attachments

Module 8: Types of Hems

Module 9: Types of Fasteners

2 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Hems

COMPETENCY PROFILE: Types of Hems

Duties Task

A. Workplace A1. Safety regulations A2. Hazard/risk A3. Contingency Health and measures Safety

B. Introduction B1. Define B2. Identify tools and B3. to Sewing supplies operation [NECESSITIES OF SEWING ]

B4. Sewing area

C. Basic Hand C1. Tacking C2. Running stitch C3. Back stitch Stitches [B ASIC CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES ]

C4. stitch C5. Overcasting stitch C6.

D. Types of D1. D2. Stem stitch D3. Satin stitch Decorative Stitches

D4. Scross stitch D5. Herringbone stitch D6. Lazy daisy stitch

D7. French knot stitch D8. Cretan stitch

E. Types of E1. Open E2. French seam E3. Flat seam Seams

F. Types of F1. Construct darts F2. Sew gathering F3. Sew Fullness

F4. Sew tucks

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 3 Types of Hems

COMPETENCY PROFILE: Types of Hems

Duties Task

G. Types of G1. Attach G2. Attach pocket G3. Attach collar Attachments

G4. Attach G5. Attach cuffs G6. Attach

H. Types of H1. Sew a turned up- H2. Sew a faced edge H3. Sew an enclosed Hems edge edge

I. Types of I1. Attach hooks and I2. Sew snaps for I3. Sew snaps Fasteners eyes for overlap, overlap, just meet just meet and edges and may exposed edges show

I4. Sew self gripping I5. Make decorative I6. Attach fasteners fasteners

I7. Make and

4 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Hems

CURRICULUM GUIDE

Program: TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY Course: GARMENT PRODUCTION Module code: TH007viii Module name : Types of Hems Module Purpose: The purpose of the module is to provide and equip participants with the necessary skills and knowledge in sewing different types of hems. Nominal Duration: The module will take approximately 3 hours. Prerequisites: There are no prerequisites for this module. Content: H1. Turned-up edge H2. Faced edge H3. Enclosed edge Suggested Delivery Method: The short course will be delivered in a practical, hands-on manner. 1. Explanation (what we will do) 5% 2. Demonstration (how we will do it) 15% 3. Implementation (now you do it) 70% 4. Evaluation (how good did we do it) 10% Instructor: The trainer preferred will be a recognized trainer from the the community or a trained vocational teacher who has sewing skill. Assessment Condition: In a training hall with proper: • lighting, ventilation • table and chairs • sewing tools and equipment References: 1. Complete Guide to Sewing 2. Complete Book of Handcrafts 3. Basic Needlework – Winefride M. Bull

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 5 Types of Hems

Overview of Learning Outcome and APPENDIX 2: Training and Assessment Guide Assessment Criteria (Learning outcome).

On successfully completion of the course the Task H2: Faced edge . participants will be able to; Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour Identify types of hems applied on edge garments and sew samples of each. Learning outcome H2.1: • Sew a faced edge hem on a hem from the bed.

APPENDIX 1: Training and Assessment Guide Teaching strategy: (Learning outcome). Learning activities for the trainee must include Task H1: Turned-up edge hem the instructor to; Suggested minimum instructional time: 2 hours 2.1 Identify tools and equipment to use. 2.2 Identify the type of hem. Learning outcome H1.1: 2.3 Explain where the faced edge hem can be • Construct a turned-up edge hem on a skirt applied on garments. hem. 2.4 Show procedures on how to begin and end in Teaching strategy: sewing a faced edge hem. Learning activities for the trainee must include Assessment condition: the instructor to; In a classroom situation or a training hall where 1.1 Identify equipment and materials to use. the participants are provided with; 1.2 Identify the type of hem. • teaching notes 1.3 Explain where the hem can be use on a • sewing machine garment. • skirt 1.4 Show procedures on how to begin and end in • sample of a sewn faced hem constructing the hem. • Assessment condition: • threads In a classroom situation or a training hall where • tacking all participants are provided with; • teaching notes Assessment criteria: The participant has; • sewing machine 2.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to use • ready skirt pattern 2.2.2 Named the type of hem. • samples of hem 2.2.3 Outlined where the faced edge hem can be • scissors applied on a garment. • threads 2.2.4 Demonstrated procedures on how to begin • tacking and end the faced edge hem

Assessment criteria: Assessment method: The participant has; • Observation 1.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to use. • Oral questioning, 1.2.2 Named the types of hem . • Practical demonstration 1.2.3 Outlined where the hem can be applied on a garment . 1.2.4 Demonstrated procedures on how to begin APPENDIX 3: Training and Assessment Guide and end in constructing the hem . (Learning outcome) Assessment method: Task H3: Enclosed edge hem. • Observation Suggested minimum instructional time: 3 hours • Oral questioning, • Practical demonstration Learning outcome H2.1 • Sew a enclosed edge hem on a skirt hem.

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Teaching strategy: • there should be no lumpiness in the hem Learning activities for the trainee must include allowance the instructor to; • unless meant to be decorative, finished hems 3.1 Identify tools and equipment to use. should be totally inconspicuous 3.2 Identify the types of hem. 3.3 Explain where the enclosed edge hem can be applied on garments. 3.4 Show procedures on how to begin and end in sewing the enclosed edge hem. Turned-up edge Assessment condition: In a classroom situation or a training hall where the participants are provided with; • teaching notes • sewing machine • skirt pattern • sample of a sewn enclosed hem Faced edge • scissors • threads • tacking pins

Assessment criteria: The participant has; Enclosed edge 3.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to use. 3.2.2 Named the type of hem. MAKING THE : 3.2.3 Outlined where the enclosed edge hem can The first step, common to all hem finishes, is be applied on a garment. marking the hemline, except for certain pleated styles, making is done after garments construction 3.2.4 Demonstrated procedures on how to begin has been completed. and end in sewing the enclosed edge. Basically there are two ways to mark a hem: Assessment method: • on a flat surface - suitably for a hem on the • Observation hipline or above • Oral questioning, • on the wearer – any length below the hip • Practical demonstration

APPENDIX 4: Introduction Instructional Notes

GENERAL INFORMATION ON HEMS A hem is a finish for any bottom edge of a garment. There are three basic forms: • turned-up edge, (the most common one) • faced edge and • eclosed edge Though all are dealt with here as hem treatments, any might be used for other edges as well. Before marking a hemline at the hip or above Selection of hemming method depends largely (also pants legs): on garment style and fabric. What ever the choice, certain criteria should always be met. • check the pattern to see how much hem allowance has been provided • the garment should hang evenly and gracefully • measure and turned up this amount, pinning fabric from right side

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 7 Types of Hems

• try on garment; adjust length if necessary • sewing machine • remove garment; measure and mark the • contrasting threads hemline • Standing straight, with feet together, move To mark a hemline below the hip: • Standing straight, with feet together, move

Note: The hem can be stitched with a sewing machine or hand sewn (refer to attachments - variety of hemming methods).

PREPARING THE FABRIC (TO MAKE A SAMPLE ) Measure 15cm x15cm fabric and out from fabric.

H1. Sew a turned-up edge

Procedures 1. Before turning up the hem, reduce bulk within the hem allowances to half their original widths. This will make the hem smoother at the seamlines.

• put garment on over appropriate ; wear and that go with it • stand on a low stool, while a helper moves around you with a marker (pin marker as shown, yardstick, or suitable substitute), placing pins marks every 2” To mark a hemline without help:

2. With wrong side facing you, fold hem on marked line, placing pins at right angles to the fold about every 2”. Try on the garment; make adjustments if necessary. After removing the garment, baste close to the folded edge.

• use a marker of the chalk type shown here. • standing straight, with feet together, move the marker around you, marking every 2”. • try to avoid changing posture as you mark. 3. Make the hem allowance an even width all around by measuring the desired distance • 1 metre kalico. from the fold, then marking with chalk. A is the easiest measuring device TOOLS and SUPPLIES you can use.

• tacking pins • •

8 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Hems

H2. Sew a faced hem

1. Cut facings to fit the hem. If there are no patterns, make your own, tracing the hemline from garment. Cut them 2 1/2” wide. 2. Join the facing sections and press the seams open. the seam allowances to half their original width.

4. Trim excess hem allowance along the marks. At this stage, you can see whether or not the hem edge lies smoothly against the garment.

3. Finish the inner facing edge (the smaller curve) Refer to attachments. 4. Before attaching, mark hemline and trim hem allowance to 5/8“. Right sides together, stitch facing to garment with _ “seam. Trim, grade, and notch .

5. the hem by machine-basting _” from the edge, beginning and ending stitches at each seam. Take care not to draw the edge in too much, or it will pull against the garment when finished.

5. Press the seams open, hen toward the facing. With the facing pulled out flat, stitch the facing close to the seam edge, through all of the seam allowance. 6. Turn facing inside the garment and press the hemline (seam should be 1/8“ from fold). Secure free edge of facing to garment with an appropriate hem stitch (refer to attachments).

6. Press the hem lightly to shrink out excess fullness, keeping the hem allowance grainlines aligned with those of the garment.

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 9 Types of Hems

H3. Sew enclosed hem Applying a single 1. Open out one fold of the binding; pin it to the hem edge, right sides together and raw edges Binding is a strip of fabric that encases a hem or aligned. Turn back the starting end 1/2“and other garment edge. It is neat and practical finish align the fold with a garment seam; stitch to for the hem of a reversible garment, and can also within 3“of the starting point. be an attractive trim, especially in a contrasting colour or texture.

Preparation of a single binding

Desired width

2. Trim away excess binding at this end so that it laps 1/2“ beyond the fold of the starting end. Lap the second end over the first one and stitch Cut bias strips four times the finished width of the rest of the way across, through all of the the binding, and the length of the edge to be thickness. bound plus 2“ for ease and joining.

Fold the strip lengthwise, with wrong sides together. Press it lightly, taking care not to stretch the fabric.

3. Press seam allowance toward the binding. Fold binding in half on the pressed line.

Open binding and fold edges to meet at the centre crease; press. Shape the binding if necessary.

10 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Herms Types of Hems

4. Slipstitch the binding ends where they overlap. ATTACHMENTS All eyes will be focused on your hemline . Different need different hems. For lightweight fabrics use the slip-stitched hem; for heavyweight fabrics or those that ravel easily use the tapped hem. For firmly woven fabrics and knits use the catch-stitch hem.

To Prepare 1. Have hem marked with pins parallel to the floor. 2. Turn up along pins, matching seam. 3. Press, avoiding pins. 4. Baste close to fold, taking pins out as you go. 5. Mark depth of hem plus 1/4“ in (0.6 cm) with 5. chalk or pins. 6. Trim surplus.

TAPED HEM : Sew 1/4“ in (0.6 cm) from edge, easing tape slightly. Pin in place. Hem tape to garment invisibly.

6. CATCH -S TITCH HEM : Work from left to right. Take one in hem by inserting needle right to left, then one in garment.

SLIPSTITCH HEM : Measure width of hem required. along turning. Turn under raw edge and stitch, then pin. Take tiny stitch in garment and slip needle along folded edge of hem to make stitch.

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 11 Types of Hems

CIRCULAR HEM : SAFETY RULES Turn hem and tack along turning. edge so Safety is very important in Sewing. To make sure hem will lie flat. Stitch one edge of binding to that everyone can learn and have fun in a safe hem. Hem other edge to garment. environment, keep the following rules in mind: 1. ALWAYS: Place your , books and bags in separate places, away from your sewing area. 2. ALWAYS: Leave your shoes on during sewing class. You do not want to accidentally step on a pin or needle. 3. ALWAYS: Look under your fabric before cutting with scissors and carry scissors with HEM IN PLEATED SKIRT : the sharp edge pointing towards the floor. Seam inside a hem must be flat. Press open. At When the scissors are not being used, place edge of , overcast seam edges together above them on the cutting table, , or in hem, clip at of hem and press seam open. your sewing box. 4. ALWAYS: Measure the thread to the length of your arm. 5. ALWAYS: Thread the needle with caution before starting to sewing on your fabric. 6. ALWAYS: Remove the pins from your fabric as you sew and place them in the pin cushion after you use them. NEVER put straight pins or needles in your mouth. PLAIN HEMMING : 7. ALWAYS: Place the iron in the upright Fasten thread under fold; take a tiny stitch in position after use. When using the iron hold garment and bring needle through edge of fold. it by the handle only. On space stitches farther apart. 8. ALWAYS: Let your teacher/trainer help you use the (unpicker). 9. ALWAYS: Place your seam gauge, ruler, scissors and pins in the sewing box after using them. 10. ALWAYS: Listen to the teacher’s/trainer’s instructions.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This short course module, developed in Papua New Guinea, is based on the competency-based training model. The Skill Training Resource Unit (STRU) of Employment Oriented Skills Development Project (EOSDP) in conjunction with Department (TVET) division and the implementing agency Department for Community Development Services wish to express their thanks to the people who have contributed in producing the module. We hope it will provide basic knowledge and skills for the informal and the formal sectors especially the women, men and the youth to be employed or self-employed through having better skills for tomorrow.

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 13 p o box 1097, waigani national capital district papua new guinea. tel: (675) 323 2633 fax: (675) 323 0944

The development of this short course was sponsored by the ADB-PNG EMPLOYMENT SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT (EOSDP) and produced by curriculum officers at the SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT (STRU)