Fall 2012 Textile Society of America Newsletter 24:3 — Fall 2012 Textile Society of America

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This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Textile Volume 24 n Number 3 n Fall, 2012 Society of America

contents he Textile Society of a convenient downtown Program America’s 13th Biennial location, close to the National 1 Symposium 2012 Concurrent Symposium sessions Symposium is only a few Mall, Union Station, and Penn T will explore how textiles com- 2 From the President weeks away, and it promises to Quarter, as well as a bustling municate and construct status, be our most exciting yet. More dining, shopping, and enter- 3 Symposium 2012, continued ethnicity, gender, power, taste, than 375 textile scholars, artists, tainment area. Information to 6 TSA News and wealth, and have functioned collectors, and other experts are help you plan your travel to at the nexus of artistic, economic, 9 TSA Member News set to gather in the nation’s cap- Washington, DC, is online at: and political achievement in ital—our highest attendance ever http://www.textilesociety.org/ 11 Textile Community News human culture. We will see how for a TSA Symposium. Together symposia_2012travel.htm 12 In Memoriam: Bobbo Aghiable textiles have been instrumental we will explore the intersection of Also visit our Facebook page in generating, supporting, and 13 Conference Reviews Textiles & Politics with a full slate for updates and to connect with challenging political power. For 15 Exhibition Review of sessions, workshops, exhibi- fellow registrants. detailed information on session tions, tours, and special events. Additional guides to 16 Calendar: Conferences & themes and speakers, see the Washington, DC, will be pro- Symposia, Exhibitions Symposium Program online at: Venue vided to Symposium registrants 17 Calendar: Lectures, Workshops http://www.textilesociety.org/ The Symposium venue, the upon arrival. & Tours downloads/2012-tsa-symp-prelim- Washington Court Hotel, offers program.pdf to p. 3

The Textile Society of America, Symposium Registration is now closed! Inc., provides an international The conference facility is filled to capacity. forum for the exchange We are sorry for our friends and and dissemination of colleagues who may not be able to attend, information about but hope to provide info on our website textiles worldwide, to keep you up to date on the events. from artistic, cultural, economic, historic, Proceedings will be available early next year. political, social, and technical perspectives. Washington Court Hotel and lobby. keep our costs at a minimum, networks, scholarly presentations tsa board of directors and still, it is difficult to do so. and interactions, but also through OFFICERS For the future, I hope we can the potential for publication that President From The try to economize; however, TSA in turn can help build professional Elena Phipps has a great tradition of hospital- growth. To continue doing this, tel 212/349-4485 President ity that is difficult to give up. So, we need your help. Any support [email protected] enjoy your Symposium coffee you can give to the organization Vice President breaks, but please appreciate the helps us achieve these goals! Matilda McQuaid tel 212/849-8451 hard work and commitment it [email protected] takes to provide them. Symposium Sponsors Recording Secretary July, 2012 TSA’s Symposia have a great We are very grateful to our Roxane Shaughnessy track record—for hospitality, high sponsors this year. The Robert tel 416/599-5321 ext. 2226 ear Members and Friends, [email protected] Anticipating the Symposium standards in scholarship, innova- and Ardis James Foundation D tive programs, and opportunities has generously provided sup- Treasurer is a very special feeling. So much Mary Littrell planning on the part of so many to interact with a broad array port for our opening reception tel 970/219-6509 [email protected] is finally coming together. We of people—all of which revolves at the National Botanic Gardens are very grateful to all our volun- around our mutual, but divergent to be held on Wed., Sept. 19, Director of Internal Relations interests in the subject of textiles. 6-8 pm. It will be a beautiful Mary Anne Jordan teers who are making this hap- tel 785/864-3919 pen. Our program chairs, Sumru We also have a strong tradition opening event and a chance to [email protected] of providing awards and scholar- meet and talk in a wonderful Krody and Cecilia Gunzberger Director of External Relations Anderson, along with their ships, and hope to increase these setting. The Robert and Ardis Michele A. Hardy in the future, with help from all James Foundation is dedicated tel 403/220-4137 team, are working day and night [email protected] to finalize the program and all members. to enhancing the visibility of Past President the arrangements. quilting and textile arts around Financial Support the world. They also sponsored Patricia Hickman tel 845/947-8735 Symposium Program This year we have, more than the reception in Lincoln during [email protected] ever before, tried to support our 2010 Symposium at the This year the breadth and depth DIRECTORS AT-LARGE speakers, students and new pro- International Quilt Study Center of the program is amazing and Gerry Craig I am really looking forward to fessionals, and general members and Museum--a grand tradition tel 785/532-6605 participating. So many colleagues with budget relief in the form of in the making! We are also very [email protected] and friends are planning to registration fee waivers. We do grateful to the New York Hajji Joanne B. Eicher our best to provide these scholar- Baba Club and Ezra Mager for tel 651/645-2914 attend that I only hope to have [email protected] time to see them all. I know ships, and it is contributions from their contributions to the Friday members that enable us to do night Textile Museum reception. Sarah Fee that we all will feel the conflict tel 647/347-9246 of the concurrent sessions this this. There were a number of TSA has been honored to [email protected] year—there are many of them, generous individual donors who receive a grant from the Trust Christine Martens and it is a difficult factor in the sponsored student participation, for Mutual Understanding to sup- [email protected] positive growth of our organiza- and we thank them sincerely. port the travel and participation Barbara Shapiro We had an overwhelming of four presenters from Central tel 415/882-7401 tion. I would very much like to [email protected] hear your opinions about the number of requests this year for Asia, including our Uzbek velvet support and we did as much weavers, Rasuljon Mirzhmedov Ann Svenson planning, so that, as we move [email protected] forward to thinking about 2014, as possible. I am sorry that we and Aziz Murtazaev, schol- we can make informed decisions. couldn’t provide assistance to ars Dr. Irina Vadimovna TASK REPRESENTATIVES TSA Website Coordinator On the one hand, we try to all who requested it, and truly Bogoslovskaya and Dr. Elmira appreciate all that everyone does Gyul. Thanks to the work of Susan Brown enable as many members as pos- [email protected] to be able to attend. We hope TSA Board member Chris sible to have the opportunity to TSA Listserv Manager present their work. On the other that all who received some help Martens who has coordinated Lydia Fraser hand, I remember fondly the TSA this year can in turn help oth- this effort. [email protected] 1996 Symposium in Chicago, ers in the future. I would like There remain many sponsor- TSA Newsletter Editor to see a broad support program ship opportunities for the 2012 Karen Searle where everyone sat in one audito- [email protected] rium and heard each speaker. established so that TSA can Symposium, and we are always help more in the future. Also, it open to new ideas. TSA Bibliography Editor This year we had so many Marlys McGuire great proposals that our commit- is one of our goals for TSA to I hope that everyone travels [email protected] tee of reviewers had many diffi- support scholarship and creative safely and I look forward to 2010 Shep Award Chair cult choices. One option we can endeavors, and we hope that, seeing you all in Washington! Kate Irvin [email protected] consider is to extend the number by bringing together our diverse Elena TSA Symposium 2012 Co-Chairs of days of the Symposium—but membership at the Symposia, Elena Phipps Sumru Belger Krody this, too, can be a hardship for everyone’s experiences and [email protected] President, TSA 2011-2014 many, both in terms of time and futures are enriched—not only Cecilia Gunzberger Anderson [email protected] expense. We try very hard to through friendships, professional [email protected]

2 tsa newsletter close look at renowned textile Mason’s Gunston Hall. After collections in the Washington, the Symposium, we’ll travel to DC area and engage with lead- Delaware to see Winterthur ing curators, weavers, and other Estate and Gardens, home of experts. Our diverse program Henry Francis Dupont and his features tours of indigenous textiles at the Dumbarton Keynote Speakers Workshops Oaks Museum and The Textile Our two plenary speakers will The Symposium features five Museum, Japanese textiles at explore the ways in which workshops, offering hands-on the Japanese Embassy’s Japanese politics influence the aesthetics, learning experiences with diverse Information and Culture production, materials, and uses textile techniques and traditions. Center, Chinese textiles at of textiles. Contemporary fiber Jorie Johnson’s feltmaking work- the Smithsonian’s Freer and artist Joyce Scott, known as shop will guide us on how to Arthur M. Sackler Galleries, the “Queen of Beadwork,” will inlay, encapsulate, and enmesh and American Indian textiles speak on Thursday. Her exuber- designs into a traditional Central at the National Museum of ant beaded sculptural forms Asian wool accessory, either an the American Indian’s Cultural and neckpieces—inspired by her arm bangle or wrist cuff. Ann Resources Center. We will also ethnic and family heritage—are Pollard Rowe, The Textile explore historical American provocative and confrontational, Museum Research Associate for collections at the Library of addressing contentious political Western Hemisphere Textiles, Congress, the National Museum and social issues such as gender, will instruct us on the different of Natural History, the Sewall- race, and class struggle. textile structures used to create Belmont House, and the On Friday, art historian patterns using warp floats on Daughters of the American Rosamond Mack will show simple looms, with examples Revolution Museum. We’ll tour how Italian Renaissance taste for provided by Andean and Middle two other gems of Washington, ensembles of wall-hangings, cur- Eastern textiles from The Textile DC: Hillwood Estate, Museum Symposium Workshops include tains, and carpets evolved, and Museum’s collection. In addi- & Gardens, founded by Marjorie making felted accessories with how it affected and was influ- tion, Ann Hedlund, Cathy Merriweather Post; and Tudor Jorie Johnson (above) and Place, home of Thomas Peter a study of velvets with Julie enced by trade, production, and Notarincola, and Susan Heald Holyoke of Lisio Foundation. aesthetics. Ms. Mack, who holds to discuss identification of south- and his wife, Martha Custis a PhD in Italian Renaissance western textiles; Michel Garcia Peter, granddaughter of painting and an MA in fine and Yoshiko Wada present nat- Martha Washington. For arts, spent 14 years living in the ural dyeing with cochineal, and seminars focusing on Middle East and North Africa Julie Holyoke of Fondazione design and contemporary and has given lectures around Lisio explores aspects of velvet fiber art, we will visit the the world. Her recent publica- weaving. National Gallery and the tions include Bazaar to Piazza: Renwick Gallery. Site Seminars Islamic Trade and Italian Art, Pre- and Post- 1300-1600. Through our 15 Site Seminars, Symposium Symposium attendees will get a Tours Our specially arranged The collections at the Sewall-Belmont House tours will give you the are featured in a Site Seminar. opportunity to connect Below, detail, “Baltimore Album Quilt,” 1849. American, Maryland, Baltimore. Designer: with fellow attendees Attributed to Mary Simon. Friends of the and see significant American Wing Fund. BMA 1976.93. textile collections in Washington, DC, and the mid-Atlantic region. Pre- Symposium tours include a close look at album quilts in the Baltimore Museum of Art and the Baltimore Appliqué Society, as well as visits to two historic homes: George Washington’s Frescos in the Ducal Palace, Mantua, Northwall Court, 1465-74, discussed in Mt. Vernon and George Rosamond Mack’s lecture. Fall 2012 3 International a revival of ikat weaving and to hold workshops on natural Speakers Featured dyeing. His book, The Secrets of at TSA Symposium Natural Dyeing was translated into Dari as well as English and he following are among German. the international speakers T In addition, Mirzaahmedov who will travel to the Symposium. has been a participant in interna- Please make an effort to greet tional exhibitions and competi- and welcome them. tions in Europe and the US.

Rasuljon Mirzaahmedov, – Chris Martens Margilan, Uzbekistan, born Jorie Johnson, Kyoto, Japan, in 1973, represents the fifth is recognized internationally as generation of ikat weavers in a leader in the area of hand- Margilan, Uzbekistan, a city feltmaking. Born into a Boston well known for silk production wool merchant’s household, throughout Central Asia. He she studied textile design at the learned the skills of ikat weav- Rhode Island School of Design ing from his father, Turghunboy and KOTO in Finland, where she Mirzaahmedov, an internationally Velvet yasuk face, Bursa, 17th century, featured in “The Sultan’s Garden” also interned with Marimekko. exhibition at The Textile Museum. TM I.54. Acquired by George Hewitt recognized Uzbek master of ikat Her work is in numer- Myers in 1951. weaving. ous collections, including the He received the UNESCO Victoria & Albert Museum, de unparalleled collection of early reception. For a full list of par- “Seal of Excellence” for reviv- Young Museum, Smithsonian American decorative arts. ticipating organizations, visit our ing the ancient patterns of Cooper-Hewitt National Design Our second post-Sympo- website at: Bukhara velvet and established Museum, Bank of America (Fleet sium tour will take attendees to http://www.textilesociety.org/ the Khorezm Weaving Training Bank), NUNO Corporation, see private collections of fiber symposia_2012exhibits_events.htm Center in “Olloqulihan” Madrasa and Kawashima Textile Studio. art in Washington, DC, and Registrants will also be in Khorezm, where he restored A part-time lecturer at Kyoto Baltimore’s Maryland Institute provided with a full list of old Khorezm woven structures. University of Art and Design College of Art. Washington, DC area exhibitions He set up workshops for ikat and other institutions in Japan, at participating museums and and carpet weaving, embroidery, Exhibitions & Special Johnson has exhibited, lectured, museum shops. and block-printing under the aus- Events and led workshops at universi- pices of UNESCO at The Center Marketplace ties and conferences throughout Several museums and other for Handicraft Development at the US, Europe, and Asia. Her cultural institutions have orga- What better way to con- Said Akhmad Khuja Madrasa in Kyoto-based studio, Joi Rae nized exhibitions in conjunc- tinue your learning after the Margilan city. He continues to Textiles, produces limited-edition tion with the Symposium. On Symposium, and to get a start operate these workshops today. body wear, accessories, and view at The Textile Museum on your holiday shopping than Mirzaahmedov was invited works for home interiors. For is “The Sultan’s Garden: The by visiting the Marketplace at twice to Afghanistan by more information, visit: Blossoming of Ottoman Art,” the Washington Court Hotel. Turquoise Mountain to organize and, all Symposium attendees Twenty-two vendors will feature http://www.JoiRae.com are invited to the preview wearable art, ethnic textiles, reception on Friday evening. books, yarn, fabric, and other In Baltimore, the Maryland textile-related merchandise Institute College of Art is show- available for purchase. Though ing “Cloth of Action,” an exhibit the Marketplace will be open of collaborative student work, during the entire Symposium, and we will have the oppor- on Thursday it will be available tunity to engage with MICA only to Symposium registrants; faculty and students during the take advantage of this special Symposium. The US Botanic preview! Garden will be the beautiful set- – Cynthia Bohlin ting for our welcoming evening Symposium Planning Committee

Uzbek Master Weaver Rasuljon Mirzaahmedov with some of his ikat designs. Photo: Chris Martens.

4 tsa newsletter In 2003, she established “I had heard so much about the Lepo Lorun (House of how our great grandmothers Weaving) Weaving Cooperative. used to make natural dyes from Contacting about 800 women plants such as mango, mengkudu from 17 villages, she injected [noni], indigo, and turmeric. So new life into the traditional art I thought, why not revive this of making tenun ikat, a method knowledge? We can benefit from of weaving that uses pre-dyed what we already have around us, thread to create patterns. “I want- and contribute to the environ- ed to develop what we already ment at the same time.” have without taking away the With tenun ikat becoming traditional values,” she said, increasingly popular, Alfonsa says adding that each village has its it’s important not to forget the characteristic tenun ikat patterns, artist behind the work. “It is sad Feltmaker Jorie Johnson with her wool and silk felt work, “China Rose.” either characters or symbols, that to hear people refer to them as Jorie writes, “Observation of Palace in Human World” in set them apart and tell the story artisans instead of maestros. The three elements: tradition (based Japan, “Art in the Reign of and philosophy of the people same goes for all maestros all on survival), production (incorpo- Emperor Kangxi” at Versailles of Flores. over Indonesia who are labeled rating repetition), and art (surface Palace, and “Daily Objects Many take for granted as artisans. Anyone with skills, embellishment) has led me to from the Court in Ming and the work of elderly Kampung be it in making tenun ikat or examine the significance of tex- Qing Dynasties” at the Louvre women who spend their lives traditional musical instruments, tiles as the major living expres- Museum. weaving traditional ikat cloths. should be called a maestro. The sion of all peoples, cultures, and A leading expert on Qing “Many people perceive these women weavers of Flores are ages around the world.” dynasty court costume, weav- women as nobodies and what maestros from the time they are ing, and embroidery, Yan has they do as nothing,” says Alfonsa. very young until the day they die.” Yong Yan is the Deputy published extensively. Some “But our traditions, in the hands If you want to meet Alfonsa Director of the Court History of his publications include: A of these women, have been pre- and learn more about the coop- Department, and Head of Pictorial Book of Qing History–the served.” erative, she will be part of TSA’s the Division of Textile, Palace Reign of Emperor Shunzhi; Chinese She has faced many obstacles Symposium panel on “Global Museum, Beijing. He joined TSA Costume, a catalog of the exhibi- along the way—convincing the Artisan Enterprises: Challenges this year and will present his tion “Gem of Court Costume in women to continue to weave for Sustainability” and speak- paper entitled “New Light on the Qing Dynasty at the Palace when they could do something ing about “The Revitalization of Chinese Imperial Silk Textile Museum;” and A Pictorial Book else to earn a living; inspiring Ikat Weaving in Flores Island, Production and Management of Court Costume in the Qing young women to learn the art Indonesia.” in the Qing Dynasty (1644- Dynasty, among many other even though it’s not fashionable – Marilyn Murphy 1911)” at Textiles & Politics in books and articles. Yong Yan to do so; and to reintroduce the Washington, DC, this fall. Mr. holds a BA from the Department use of natural dyes to create ikat Yan also serves as a researcher of Archaeology at Jilin University of a higher value. From Alfonsa, at the Palace Museum and is and received his MA from the a member of its Committee Institute of Qing History, Renmin of Collection and Appraisal of University in 2001. Antiquities. He has been working at the Palace Museum since Alfonsa Horeng of 1989, where he oversees the Indonesia recalls, “I remembered preservation, exhibition, and what my father always said: research for the world’s largest ‘Never leave the land your great and most important Chinese grandfathers inherited to you, imperial textile collection consist- and develop it for a good cause.’ ing of over 170,000 pieces. He That local wisdom was what has organized numerous large- convinced me to leave my career scale exhibitions, including in the big city of Surabaya and “Japanese Cultural Relics at return home to develop Flores.” the Palace Museum,” “Woven And, development in this area in and Embroidered Calligraphy the Nita district of Sikka regency and Painting Collection from in Indonesia is clearly what Alfonsa Horeng the Palace Museum,” “Chinese Alfonsa is achieving. at San Francisco’s Costume–Treasures of Court Indonesia Day, Costumes in Qing Dynasty from 2011. Photo: Karin the Palace Museum,” “Heavenly Hazelkorn and Alfonsa Horeng.

Fall 2012 5 Valentine will continue her work with a Fulbright Fellowship in Turkey starting this fall. Her year-long project will explore Brandford /Elliott the relationship between tradi- Award tional textiles and architecture in Cappadocia. She will study he 2012 Brandford/Elliott traditional Turkish lace-making Award for Excellence in T techniques (oya and mekik) at Fiber Art will be presented Middle East Technical University to Olivia Valentine at the and with local women. Her Textile Society of America’s research will then be incorpo- 13th Biennial Symposium in rated into a series of installations Washington, DC. Valentine, that explore the landscape, archi- who has studied at Cooper tecture, and craft traditions of the Union, Brown University, Rhode region as they relate to the idea Above, “Guest Room at the Drake”–Studio Installation View, by Oiivia Island School of Design, and Valentine, 2012. String, Nails, Window Casing, 72” h. x 111” w. of lace as an edging or boundary. The School of the Art Institute The Brandford/Elliott Award will Left, “Punto in Aria” (Powerhouse Construction)–Process View, 2011. of Chicago, has combined an Balloons, Helium, Hand Constructed Bobbin Lace. Overall completed provide funding for supplies and interest in architecture and dimensions: 25’ h. x 7’ w. residency fees during her stay in social structures with the study of textile constructions, par- Turkey and for exhibition of the contemporary fiber artists. ticularly lace. Her recent studio work in Turkey and the US. Contributions of any size help to work uses lace representations The Brandford/Elliott Award ensure that the award will con- of windows to explore the was established to honor the tinue into the future. They can boundaries between interior lives and work of the late and be made from the website, and exterior space. Because lace beloved artists Joanne Segal http://www.brandford-elliott- is often used as an edging, she Brandford and Lillian Elliott. award.com sees it as representing a mediat- Funding is provided by people or by mail at PO Box 470735, ing space between the private who see the value in supporting Brookline, MA 02447. and the public. the work of emerging –Cathy Weller

Matilda McQuaid, Mary Permanent Collection Gallery. try prior to entering education Littrell, and Barbara Shapiro. She combines research interests was as National Sales Manager They have made tremendous in the museum’s Central and of Ulster Weavers, sellers of fine TSA contributions to the organiza- South American holdings with Irish linen. In addition, he spent tion and we thank them for an interest in using new media three years as Managing Director News their service. We also would like to provide broad and meaningful of US Marketing for Cotton to thank Susan Powers, who access to museum collections. Incorporated, and has also taught has served as our website Task Shaughnessy has been the TSA textiles for five years. He has Representative and wish her the Recording Secretary since 2008 published books and articles best with her new family. and has attended every TSA about menswear and New York he TSA is pleased to present Tthe newly elected members Symposium since 1998. She factory production. He received of the 2012-2014 Board of Vice-President/President Elect was a member of the organizing an MBA in Marketing from Directors. They will take office Roxane Shaughnessy is committee for TSA 8, 2006, in Fairleigh Dickinson University. during the Symposium. We wel- Curator, Collections and Access, Toronto, where she also pre- Londrigan will present his first TSA come the new members, along at the Textile Museum of sented a paper. paper in Washington this year. with continuing members Gerry Canada. Over the past several Craig, Sarah Fee, Michele years she has managed the digi- Treasurer Recording Secretary Hardy, and Ann Svenson tization and publication of the Michael Londrigan is Chair, Susan Brown is Associate (in a new position as Director textile collection online for public Fashion Merchandising at LIM Curator of Textiles at the of Internal Relations), and Pat access. In 2010, she was the col- College. He has been involved Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Hickman, who has graciously lections lead in the development in the textile industry for over Museum. She has curated several agreed to continue in the posi- of Social Fabric, the museum’s 30 years dealing in cut-and- exhibitions, including “Fashioning tion of Past President. newest interactive website where sew knits and wovens from Felt” and “Color Moves: Art and We are very grateful to the users can share stories, knowl- a sourcing, production, sales, Fashion by Sonia Delaunay,” Board members who will be edge, and questions related to and marketing standpoint both, and edited/contributed to the completing their terms: Joanne textiles. She has curated sev- domestically and overseas. The publications for these shows. She Eicher, Maryanne Jordan, eral exhibitions and curates the last position he held in the indus- has also contributed to books

6 tsa newsletter and scholarly journals about her Gender. She has been named the was a presenter at the 2008 research on felt and electronic Donna R. Danielson Professor Symposium. She also served on textiles and has lectured widely in Apparel Merchandising and TSA’s R.L. Shep Book Award on both subjects. Brown received Design at Iowa State University. Committee (2009-11). her MA in Costume and Textiles She is also the design director from the Fashion Institute of at Yo-San Studio where she Dominique Cardon is Technology and spent 12 years markets and designs wearable Directrice de Recherche de 1ère as costume designer for theater art accessories for an online classe CNRS [1st class Senior and opera. She has participated store. Her published research Researcher, CNRS (National in several TSA Symposia as a ranges from punk and goth Centre of Scientific Research)] speaker, and organized a NYC clothing to female slave narra- and is also a textile designer Shaughnessy regional tour for TSA in July, 2011. tives and appearance. Her own and weaver. Her recent publica- work has been in numerous tions have focused on dyeing Internal Relations Director exhibitions in the US, and is also techniques, including the study Ann Svenson is a textile conser- included in private collections. of purple in Roman Egypt and a vator in private practice. In addi- Sanders received her PhD from major book on natural dyes. She tion to many significant collec- University of Nebraska-Lincoln received her PhD from the tions throughout the US, she has and her MA in Design from University of Montpellier in History served as a textile conservator at Colorado State University. She and Archaeology. Cardon was the UCLA Fowler Museum, the has been an active participant a keynote speaker at the 2010 Los Angeles County Museum at TSA Symposia as well as a TSA Symposium in Lincoln, NE, of Art, and Shangri La–The Marketplace vendor with Yo-San where she also co-organized a Doris Duke Foundation for Studio. She is a nominee for workshop on natural dyes with Londrigan Islamic Art in Honolulu, HI. this year’s Founding Presidents Elena Phipps and participated Ms. Svenson works from her 5 Award. (See p. 8.) in, and co-chaired sessions on Oaks Conservation Studio in natural dyes and their history. Los Angeles, where she receives Jill D’Alessandro is curator of textile artifacts for treatment. She Costume and Textile Arts, The Susan Bean is Curator of South employs her “have needle, will Caroline & H. McCoy Jones Asian and Korean Art at the travel” approach to solving textile Department of Textiles Arts at Peabody Essex Museum and conservation problems at muse- the De Young Museum in San has curated major exhibitions um collection sites in California Francisco. She manages a col- at the museum, including “Bark and Hawaii. She was the lection of 13,000 textiles and Cloth from Polynesia” (1988) Proceedings editor for TSA and costumes from Asia, Africa, and “From the Land of the worked with Biennial Symposium Oceania, Europe, and the Thunder Dragon: Textile Arts of Brown committee members designing Americas. Among the exhibi- Bhutan” (1994) with co-curator and editing the 2008 and 2010 tions she has organized are Diana Myers. Her research and Programs and Proceedings. She has “The Art of the Anatolian Kilim: publications range in subject served as Publications Chair on Highlights from the McCoy Jones matter from trade goods from the TSA Board. Collection;” “Pulp Fashion: The India to the Indian origins of the Art of lsabelle de Borchgrave;” bandana. Bean received her PhD Directors at Large and “To Dye For: A World from Columbia University and Saturated in Color.” She has a BA from Brown University. Eulanda Sanders is associ- written extensively about tex- She was a founding Board mem- ate professor in Design and tiles, from pulp fashion to New ber of TSA (1987-92) and has Merchandising at Colorado State Guinea fiber masterworks. She presented many papers at the University and Director of the received her MFA in Fibers Symposia. Center for Women’s Studies and Svenson from Tyler School of Art and – Matilda McQuaid Chair, Nominating Committee

Sanders D’Alessandro Cardon Bean

Fall 2012 7 Getting to Know Merchandising and Women’s Delaware’s Winterthur Program Student/New Studies. They have studied, in American Material Culture, Our Eminent FPA exhibited, taught, published, and where she received the E. Mc Professional Nominees designed textiles in one way or Clung Flemming Thesis Prize. Awardees another, and we at TSA are the She is currently the Associate he recipient of the prestigious SA is proud to sponsor fortunate beneficiaries of their Curator of the Nantucket the following five outstanding TTSA 2012 Founding research and passion. The TSA Historical Association in T recipients of this year’s Student/ Presidents Award will be Board is proud to honor all six of Massachusetts. New Professional Scholarships, announced at the 13th TSA the FPA nominees. “Felt Space: Responsive which provide Symposium regis- Symposium in September in “Embroidered Politics.” Textiles, Fabric Dwellings and trations. The application process Washington, DC. Inaugurated Miriam Ali-de Unzaga Precarious Housing.” Kristy is open to all students or recent in 2008, this award recognizes earned an MA in Islamic Robertson earned an MA from graduates starting their careers. excellence in the field of textile Humanities from the Institute the Department of Art History The five recipients were studies and ensures that the of Ismaili Studies, London, and and a PhD from the Department chosen from 33 applicants; in finest new work is represented a PhD from the Institute of of Art: Studies in Visual and addition, the TSA board cre- at the organization’s biennial Anthropology and Museum Material Culture, both at Queen’s ated 14 partial Symposium fee Symposium. The award is named Ethnography, University of University, Ontario. She was waivers to allow more mem- in honor of the five founding Oxford. She is currently Visiting a Postdoctoral Fellow at the bers of this group of emerging TSA presidents: Peggy S. Gilfoy Scholar at the Papyrus Museum- Constance Howard Resource and scholars and artists to attend the (deceased), Milton Sonday, Austrian National Library Research Centre at Goldsmiths TSA 13th Biennial Symposium Lotus Stack, Mattiebelle researching Egyptian medieval College, University of London. in Washington, DC. The Gittinger, and Louise W. textiles. She is a published author and Symposium theme, Textiles & Mackie. “Provenance: The Story of currently serves as an Assistant Politics, has had a very strong Six authors of five papers a Textile and its Journey to the Professor of Contemporary response from curators, scholars, were chosen as finalists by the Slave Quarters.” Susan Falls Art and Museum studies at the collectors, artists, and other tex- FPA committee, who consid- earned an MA and a PhD in University of Western Ontario. tile enthusiasts. ered excellence in scholarship Cultural Anthropology from “The Politics of Textiles The scholarship recipients and appropriateness to the CUNY-Graduate Center in New Used in African American Slave have come to textiles via studies Symposium theme, Textiles & York. She is currently a Cultural Clothing.” Eulanda A. Sanders in Anthropology, Archeology, Politics. These six nominated Anthropology Professor at the is also a newly elected TSA Oriental Studies, and Religious FPA authors represent some Savannah College of Art and Board member. See her bio and Studies, and will be arriving from of the breadth that makes TSA Design (SCAD). Her collabora- photo on p. 7. the USA, Canada, Turkey, and such a vital organization. Those tor, Jessica Smith, earned a Our congratulations are the UK. nominated include four educa- BFA from the University of extended to all those who were Dr. Selin Ipek comes from tors, two designers, an inde- Washington and an MFA from nominated. The winner(s) will Istanbul, Turkey, where she pendent scholar, an associate the University of Kansas. She receive a monetary award and all works at the Topkapi Palace curator, and several published is an exhibiting artist/textile finalists receive complimentary Museum. She completed her authors. They are currently designer and Professor of Textiles Symposium registration. You can PhD on “Fashion of the Court located in Europe and Canada, at SCAD. hear their presentations at the Women’s Attire of the 18th as well as the East, West, and “By Your Exertions Symposium. To contribute to this and 19th Centuries in the Light South of the US. Their areas of Conjointly with Ours: British Award, please contact the TSA of Written and Visual Sources expertise include Anthropology, Printed Cottons in Brazil, 1827- National Office directly at: kept in the Topkapı Palace Ethnography, Islamic Humanities, 1910.” Sarah Parks earned a [email protected]. Museum” at Mimar Sinan Fine Material Culture, Contemporary BA from Wellesley College and – Barbara Shapiro Arts University. She will pres- Art, Museum Studies, Design an MA from the University of

FPA Nominees, left to right: Susan Falls, Jessica Smith, Sara Parks, and Kristy Robertson. Eulanda Sanders is pictured on p. 7. Not pictured, Miriam Ali de Unzaga.

8 tsa newsletter ent “Ottoman Fabrics During of Chinese vernacular textiles. 18th-19th Centuries” at the TSA Laura Stemp-Morlock com- Symposium. pleted her Master of Theological Mara Kaktins is a historical Studies at Conrad Grebel archaeologist and PhD candidate University College in Waterloo, at Temple University’s Depart- Canada, and begins PhD studies ment of Anthropology. Her dis- this fall (Religious Studies) on sertation research centers on the Mennonite and Muslim veiling changing treatment of the poor practices in Canada. Her research throughout the colonial period, examines the intersection of reli- utilizing the first Philadelphia City gious ideology, gender, culture, Almshouse as a focal point. Her and history, and the impact these study seeks to reveal more about have on women’s appearances. the types of cloth produced at She is presenting “Blinded by the almshouse, in addition to the Veil: Muslim Canadians revealing information about the Encounter Québec’s Sovereignty, daily lives. Secularism and Proposed Niqab “The Surface,” tapestry by Susan Iverson, wool on linen warp, 4’ 9” x 6’ x 10”, Jane Lynch is a Doctoral ban” at the Symposium. shown in “Pushing the Limits” at Artspace, Richmond, VA. Candidate in Sociocultural More details on the Anthropology at the University Scholarship criteria and jury Fellowship to research “Religious “Personal Landscapes: Created of Michigan. She holds an process are available on the TSA Practice of the Turkmen: in Nature’s Studio” is on view MA in Anthropology from the website: Illuminated by Women, Textiles Aug. 23-Sept. 9 at Parish Gallery, University of Michigan and an http://www.textilesociety.org/ and Islamic Oral Tradition.” Chehalem Cultural Center, MA in Social Science from the awards Newberg, OR. Zenaide Reiss is reducing http://www.reginabenson.com University of Chicago. She car- –Ruth Scheuing her studio space drastically ried out her doctoral study on Chair, TSA Student and New http://www.chehalemculturalcenter. and requests help from TSA the handloom textile industry Professional Scholarships org in India Sept. 2010-Apr. 2012, members in selling her 46-inch, supported by a Fulbright-Nehru 16-harness, AVL Compu-dobby Laura Camerlengo organized Student Research Fellowship. She loom. She also has lots of weav- a small exhibition of 18th- and will present “Being and Buying TSA ing accessories, such as warping 19th-century Scottish samplers Chanderi: The Social Life of a reels, spool racks, etc. Just ask; at the Philadelphia Museum of Brand.” Member she probably has it. She also Art. These were collected by Rachel Silberstein is a PhD needs help in selling yarn— the Philadelphia-based candy candidate in Oriental Studies at News mostly dyeable white wools and company, Whitman Chocolates, the University of Oxford, UK. rayons. She would be happy and will be shown in celebration Her research examines issues of to receive referrals to places of Whitman’s 170th anniversary fashion and identity in the dress she might donate yarns and and the 100th anniversary of the of Qing women. She has recently Member News smaller weaving tools. The studio Whitman “Sampler” chocolate been awarded the 2012 Gervers is in Central NJ. box, Aug. 3-Spring, 2013. Akiko Kotani was named Heinz Fellowship at the Royal Ontario zenaiden@verizon.net http://www.philamuseum.org Foundation/The Pittsburgh Museum to study their collection tel 908/995-9336 Foundation Fellow, which will Walter Denny continues his provide funding for her 2013 Member Exhibitions TSA Headquarters work as Senior Consultant in Pittsburgh Artist of the Year Regina Benson recently mount- Charlotte Cosby, Manager exhibition at the Pittsburgh ed an installation at Ice Cube TSA National Office Center for the Arts, Sept.-Nov. Gallery, Denver, CO. “Wading TSA Member Services 2013. This year, Kotani will be In: Experiential Art in the Registrar, Symposia, Study part of the conference, “Paul Material World” presents a sea- Tours, and Workshops Klee: Philosophical Vision, side environment based on her From Nature to Art,” at Boston scuba-diving trip to Australia’s PO Box 193 College, Oct. 17-19, held in Middletown, DE 19709 Great Barrier Reef. In a series conjunction with a major Paul of three artist talks, Benson tel 302/378-9636 Klee exhibition at the McMullen fax 302/378-9637 explored her artistic inspiration Museum of Art, Boston College, and the challenges of creating [email protected] Sept. 1-Dec. 9. http://www.textilesociety.org works within a fluid environ- http://www.bc.edu/gn-artmuseum ment. Her Solo exhibition, Your source for membership forms, study tour information, Chris Martens was awarded a and the latest news. 2012-2013 IREX Title VIII Policy Silk Ikat in a Turkish market. Photo: Chris Martens.

Fall 2012 9 Center, Athens, OH; and “New Fibers 2012,” Nov. 14-Dec. 16 at Eastern Michigan University, Ypsilanti, MI. http://www.dairybarn.org “The Ultimate “Tormentas y Suenos,” a solo Faux Fur” by Karen exhibit of weaving and surface Searle. Legally design by Carolyn Kallenborn shredded currency with rayon and was on view during July at the metallic threads Textile Museum of Oaxaca, worked into cotton Mexico. lace; satin lining, http://carolynkallenborn.com crochet trim.

“Blue Peninsula,” Jacquard-woven A solo exhibition of weavings Barbara Shapiro will participate guests observed that they had art textile by Michael Radyk. by Michael Radyk are on view in the exhibit “Four Weavers: not previously seen such com- Sept. 6-Oct. 14 at McLanahan Pathways in Contemporary Fiber prehensive coverage of nearly all the Department of Islamic Art Gallery, Misciagna Family Center Art” at the Petaluma Art Center, of the different tribes’ fabrics in a at the Metropolitan Museum for Performing Arts, University of Petaluma, CA, Jan. 11-Mar. single exhibition. At the opening, of Art in New York. He will Pennsylvania, Altoona. 10, 2013. It features multi- Tsai spoke about her 10 years of be on research leave from the htp://www.aa.psu.edu/misciagna dimensional textiles by Shapiro experience researching aboriginal University of Massachusetts at and Candace Crockett, Ulla Chinese textiles. The reception Amherst from Sept., 2012 to Karen Searle participated in de Larios, and Suki Russack. was attended by the Minister Sept., 2014, and this Fall he will “Medium of Exchange: The The lives and careers of these of the Council of Indigenous serve as the first David Nasser Art of Cash”, Jun. 22-Aug. 18 four women have intertwined Peoples, who also gave a brief Khalili Visiting Professor of at Banfill-Locke Center for the for many years. Beginning as speech. Islamic Art at Queens College Arts, Minneapolis, MN. Her weavers, they have followed http://www.sinica.edu.tw/tit/ in New York. His exhibition of objects made from legally shred- various paths in developing museums/1294_shung-ye.html textiles and carpets, created and ded currency were viewers’ their art. Each has a passion- Member Lectures and produced with Sumru Krody, favorites in this inter-disciplinary, ate and unique involvement entitled “The Sultan’s Garden: discursive exhibition. Her wire in the contemporary fiber arts Workshops The Blossoming of Ottoman sculptures will be featured in movement. The exhibition dem- On May 19, Ruth Barnes lec- Art,” will be on view at The “Lace & Gunpowder: The Male/ onstrates their commitment to tured at the DeYoung Museum, Textile Museum in Washington, Female Exhibition” Nov. 19-Dec. labor intensive textile techniques San Francisco, CA, on the col- DC, Sept. 21-Mar. 10, 2013. 23 at K.G. Murphy Gallery, St. as a means to building strong, lection of 19th century Central http://www.textilemuseum.org Catherine University, St. Paul, contemporary visual statements. Asian garments that she traced to MN. This exhibit pairs four male Demonstrations, workshops, and the British explorer Robert Shaw Susan Iverson will have tap- and four female artists who work hand woven contemporary fash- during her tenure as the Textile estries in the following group with similar subject matter to ion design will further enrich the Curator of the Ashmolean exhibitions this fall. “Pushing see whether the artists’ gender exhibit. Museum, London. Barnes is the Limits,” Jul. 27-Sept. 23 at can be discerned by viewing the http://www.petalumaartscenter.org currently Thomas Jaffe Curator Artspace Gallery, Richmond, work. This Fall, Shapiro will teach of Indo-Pacific art at the Yale VA; “American Tapestry http://www.banfill-locke.org a 6-week basketry course for University Art Gallery. Biennial 9,” Oct.19-Dec. 16 at http://karensearle.com Osher Lifelong Learning Institute http://www.famsf.org the Dairy Barn Cultural Arts at San Francisco State University’s downtown campus. Catharine Ellis will present http://olli.sfsu.edu an 8-week Weaving/Dyeing Concentration course this fall at Yushan Tsai’s recent exhibition Penland School of Crafts. The of her reproductions of aborigi- class will explore fibers, weaving, nal Chinese textiles at the The yarn dyeing and piece dyeing. Shung Ye Museum of Formosan http://penland.org Aborigines (see TSA Newsletter Spring, 2012), was well attended Nazanin Hedayat Munroe by family, friends, and members will teach a workshop on silk of the Taipei, Taiwan crafts and painting at the Metropolitan arts community. Some of the Museum of Art, NYC, Oct. 6-20, Yushan Tsai speaks at her recent inspired by Iranian and Islamic exhibition at the Shung Ye Museum artworks in the Met’s collection. of Formosan Aborigines. Registration: tel 212-570-3961

10 tsa newsletter Rasul Mirzaahmedov, a fifth Michael Rhode lectured Aug. 2-Feb. 6, 2013: Extension tour to generation Uzbek master-crafts- 4 at the Craft in America Study remote Kengtung State. man and creator of the Oscar Center, Los Angeles, CA, http://www.textileodyssey.com Textile de la Renta ikat collection, will on “From Rugs and Patterns, [email protected] demonstrate this ancient tech- to Tapestries and Ideas: The Community nique at the American Museum Evolution of a Handweaver.” His Wendy Erd leads a Bhutan tour of Natural History on Sept. 20. work is featured at the Grand Nov. 18-28: Eastern Textiles of News He will demonstrate the ikat pro- Hand Gallery, St. Paul, MN Bhutan: A Weaver’s Journey. cess and weave on the museum’s through September. Explore the remote Eastern newly acquired Uzbek loom, http://craftinamerica.org reaches of Bhutan, where cloth surrounded by a display of tex- http://thegrandhand.com/ is considered precious, to meet Fire At Ka’ala Farm tiles from along the legendary weavers in Khoma, natural dyers Participants in the 2008 Member Publications Silk Road. in Radi, and attend a festival in Hawaiian Fibers post-Symposium http://www.amnh.org Weaving a Chronicle by Judith Mongar. Information: tour will remember the pristine Poxson Fawkes was published [email protected] site of the Cultural Learning To celebrate the launch of by Schiffer this Spring and is wendy@sacredhimalayatravel. Center at Ka’ala with its ter- their new book, Qaraqalpaqs of available at book stores. The 98 com raced lo’i, (taro paddy), the the Aral Delta, David and Sue featured tapestries and their his- wauke (paper mulberry) grove Richardson will be lecturing in tories cover 47 years of Fawkes’ Susan Faeder’s Quilters which provides bark for kapa, several cities throughout the US creative tapestry art using diverse Express Tours to Japan. Nov. and the thatched hale. For more in September, as well as giving techniques. 4-15: Autumn Splendor. Visit than three decades, countless a paper at the TSA Symposium. ISBN: 978-0-7643-4063-5 artisans, shops, and museums in groups have gathered in the hale Lectures will take place in Hardcover $39.99 Tokyo, Nagoya, and Kyoto. Jan. to share knowledge of Native Chicago, Indianapolis, Seattle, http://www.schiffer.com 22-Feb. 3, 2013: Japan-uary. Hawaiian culture, including the San Francisco, Los Angeles, Visit the Tokyo Dome Quilt rich fiber tradition. In early June, Washington, New York, and Ruth Marshall’s new book, Festival. Itinerary information is Ka’ala suffered a devastating Boston. See their website for Vanished In to Stitches is available on her website: brush fire that leapt over the more details: on the CreateSpace website. http://qejapan.com/itinerary.php adjacent ridge and surrounded http://www.qaraqalpaq.com/ Marshall showcases her intricate the farm. The hale burned to lectures.html knitted textiles in a 40-page Stephanie Schneiderman will the ground, and the water line softcover book that provides lead two tours this fall. Sept. was destroyed. Google “Ka’ala insight into her unique story and 7-16: The Mexican Rebozo Farms Fire” for more images. the urgent message she delivers focuses on the intricate dyeing Thankfully, the gardens–lo’i, TSA listserv through her designs of endan- and weaving of silk jaspe (ikat) wauke, and other plants were gered animal pelts. shawls. Textile Anthropologist saved. The mission of the TSA list- http://www.ruthmarshall.com Marta Turok will discuss the Ka’ala, as is their way, is serv is to provide a venue for https://www.createspace.com history, heritage and threats using the losses they have suf- ongoing dialogue among our to this ubiquitous female gar- fered to learn new lessons. They Member Tours diverse and globally dispersed ment in Mexico. Oct.-Nov., have been deeply moved by textile community. Listserv Serena Harrigan’s Textile (Date Pending): The Textile expressions of support from members engage in conversa- Odyssey Tours: Oct. 28-Nov. Traditions of Oaxaca. Visit friends near and far. Words of tions about research; share 12: Southwest China, Guangxi, Amuzgo & Mixteco communi- appreciation for their work and information about particular Guizhou, Yunnan. Observe eth- ties of Oaxaca’s coast to observe contributions to aid in their textiles, techniques, people, nic dress and textile traditions traditional weaving with coyuche rebuilding would be greatly and regions; announce pub- of Mini-skirt Miao, Dong, Red and green cotton, and dyeing appreciated and can be sent to: lications and exhibitions; and Yao, Shui, Flower-skirt Miao, Red with purpura pansa mollusk. In Ka’ala Farm, Inc. share research in progress. Miao, and White Pant Yao. Nov. Oaxaca, visit weavers and natu- P.O. Box 630 You can subscribe to the 12-17: Extension tour to remote ral dyers and the Museo Textil Wai’anae, HI 96792 listserv by using the form western Yunnan, Myanmar, de Oaxaca, the Ethnobotanical [email protected] on the TSA website at the Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay, Inle Gardens, and the Cochineal address below. As soon as Lake, Sittwe, Mrauk. R&D facility. the form is submitted, you Jan. 18-Feb. 2, 2013: Southwest tel 734-769-7839 will be able to join in the China. Demonstrations of lotus [email protected] conversations! stem fiber weaving, acheik weav- http://www.tiastephanietours.com Subscribe at: ing, silk ikat, weaving of the http://www.textilesociety. Khami, Chin, Mro, Rakhine, and org/resources_listserv.htm Paduang ethnic groups, along with other demonstrations and – Lydia Fraser, visits to ancient temples. Feb. Listserv Coordinator Aerial view of the fire damage at Ka’ala Farm.

Fall 2012 11 Tapestry Research Query Her Majesty and other members Weavers in their own right. His of the Royal Family attended the son, Bobbo Chapuchi lives in As part of his research on Diamond Jubilee Concert that was Washington, DC, and continues Contemporary tapestry, Stanley In Bulbach asks fellow TSA members to held in front of the Buckingham to give workshops and demon- send him their answers to the follow- Palace. The performers Robbie Memoriam strations in the DC metropolitan ing questions. Williams and Sir Paul McCartney area, often accompanied by his 1. What professional research wore military style uniforms older brother, Solomon Grandy. has been occurring in the field of trimmed with gold-and-silver work Another son, Dennis Ahiagble, contemporary fiber art, particu- that was also commissioned from authored the book, Pride of Ewe larly contemporary tapestry, in a Hand & Lock. Kente Weaving, and is currently structured manner in accordance http:/www.handembroidery.com Ghanaian Weaver teaching in the UK. I met Bobbo in 1975 while with general academic research New Online Magazine Bobbo Ahiagble guidelines and “best practices”? working at the Museum of And, what are those “best prac- Cultured Expressions, a aster Weaver Gilbert African Art. We became good tices,” and where are they openly website for African fabrics, has MAhiagble, best known friends, and he always addressed explored and discussed? launched a new online magazine as Bobbo, passed away on July me as Big Sister. When I moved 2. What professional research called Fabrigasm. The premiere 10. His weaving skills fascinated to the Ivory Coast the follow- has been reaching out to survey issue includes an interview with textile experts and children alike ing year, it was my goal to keep comprehensively the work being fiber artist Kweli Kitwana, free at the hundreds of demonstra- high quality African strip cloth done this field? Are any require- project ideas, a special feature tions and workshops he gave weaving alive. I accomplished ments in the research disclosed on Kuba cloth, tips for creating a on Kente cloth weaving all over this by assisting weavers and in the research; e.g., fees for par- calming atmosphere at home, the the US and in the Ivory Coast, spinners in the northern Sahel ticipation or entrance, paying of Adinkra Wedding, and more. Switzerland, and, most recently, region to establish the Union of jurors, donating art work to the http://culturedexpressions.com/ in New Zealand. In 1975, on Craft Cooperatives of the North research institution, commercial flip/FabrigasmSP12 his first US tour, he was invited (UGAN). gallery representation, etc.? as an artist-in-residence by the The first cultural exchange Fairchild Books Museum of African Art, then a between Bobbo and the UGAN 3. Does any professional research passing formal judg- Acquisition private museum. weavers occurred when Bobbo Thereafter, he returned many exhibited in Abidjan. Although ment on contemporary fiber art, Fairchild Books, publisher times to teach teachers, curators, they spoke French and he including contemporary tapestry, of textbooks and educational and the general public at the spoke English, they communi- regularly examine unsolicited resources for students of fashion, National Museum of African Art, cated through the language of work done in this field, or is the merchandising, retailing, and Smithsonian Institution. He had cloth! Some years later (1998), research restricted to previously interior design has been acquired the unique gift of bringing the UGAN’s president, Amidou researched work? by Bloomsbury Publishing language of cloth to life, telling Coulibaly and Bobbo gave work- Thank you, TSA, for helping Plc., which has companies in the story associated with each shops under the trees at Agnes me to research this important London, New York, Qatar, India, motif, and showing how the cloth Scott College as part of the aspect of contemporary fiber art. and Australia. It acquired Berg is worn and on what occasions. Handweavers Guild of America’s – Stanley Bulbach, Ph.D. Publishers in 2008, launched He was born into a family of Convergence convention in [email protected] the award-winning Berg Fashion Master Weavers of Ewe Kente Atlanta, GA. There, they recre- www.bulbach.com Library in 2010, and acquired cloth in the town of Agbozume, ated an African weaving village! www.handembroidery.com a fashion photography archive located in the Volta region near Visit the web page for Bobbo with over 600,000 images the border of Togo, still one of and sons: Embroiderers for the in 2011. With the Fairchild the most famous textile markets http://www.africancraft.com Queen acquisition, Bloomsbury will in Ghana. His legacy lives on –Louise Meyer Hand & Lock Embroiderers of significantly expand its US through his sons, who are Master London was honored to produce presence. Fairchild Books will the Thrones-and Banners embroi- be headed by Kathryn Earle deries for the Royal Barge on under Bloomsbury’s Academic & which Her Majesty the Queen Professional division. and the Prince of Edinburgh, the http://www.bergpublishers.com Duke and Duchess of Cornwall, the Duke and Duchess of FIT Online Cambridge, and Prince Harry The MFIT Online Collections traveled down the Thames. The are now online with over 600 hand embroidered banners fea- objects and 875 images. Visit the ture the Queen’s Cipher and are site to search, browse, collect, based on the Coronation Robe, and share online images of 3oo which was embroidered by Hand years of fashion and accessories. Bobbo Ahiagble & Lock in 1952. The next day, http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu and sons.

12 tsa newsletter Weaving History for many years, showed slides cabins often had finely appointed of hand-woven treasures now in beds. Among the most highly Conference museums in Kaunas and Vilnius, valued bedding items were “rose Conference May 19 - 20, 2012 Lithuania, taken while research- blankets,” or fulled blankets The Handweaving Museum ing her book, Reflections From a embroidered with medallions Reviews Clayton, NY Flaxen Past. Meek highlighted a that were imported from Britain. noteworthy collection of photos Woven coverlets and Bolton lways noteworthy for its documenting textile production counterpanes were also highly variety of approaches to the A in the Lithuanian countryside in prized, as were quilts made from subject of weaving history, topics the early 20th century, showing cotton prints imported from of the 2012 conference ranged Think Tank the many steps of processing India. Bed curtains and feather from the early 19th century to flax: harvesting, rippling, retting, mattresses comprised another Symposium the late 20th, and from North drying in special ovens, breaking, major portion of the bedding June 7-10, 2012 America to the Baltic. scutching, and hackling. In some that was counted in the inheri- ast President, Pat Hickman, Textile Processes cases, hand-powered flax breaks tance. Legally, one-third of a hus- represented TSA at an excit- were used, but, the pictures also band’s assets were dower rights P The conference began with an ing collaborative event between show the use of horse-powered belonging to his wife. Deeds of attempt to solve a puzzle: How the Touchstone Center for machines to ease the labor. Even maintenance, which stipulated was a group of early 19th-centu- Crafts in Farmington, PA, the the processes of laundering and what a widow would receive ry double-cloth coverlets actually Society for Contemporary Craft, bleaching, often done outdoors for support after the death of woven? These geometric-pattern and Crafthaus in Pittsburg. The in ponds or streams, were includ- her husband, often mentioned coverlets, thought to have been three-day event was dedicated to ed. Meek brought many beautiful bedding in addition to livestock, woven on Long Island beginning increasing public awareness of, examples of antique Lithuanian crops, and land. in 1810, often contain woven- and participation in, classical textiles, as well as many pieces in names, and sometimes dates. and contemporary craft forms. that she had woven. In two pre- Decorative Textiles Most are far too complex to have In an open, focused environ- conference workshops, Meek Virginia Gunn spoke on the been woven on ordinary treadle ment, Crafthaus founder Bridgitte shared her knowledge of weav- importance of understanding looms, yet they antedate the use Martin chaired the intense con- ing fine linens and of double-har- changing tastes in the decora- of the Jacquard loom. Some histo- versation on the current state and ness weaving in the Lithuanian tive arts. In “Nineteenth-Century rians believe they were woven on future of craft in America. manner. Coverlet Weaving and Carpet early barrel looms. These cover- The goal of the Symposium Weaving: Exploring the lets typically contain areas of gar- was to identify and discuss cre- Textile Usage Connections,” Gunn noted that bled text or “hen tracks,” which ative solutions to some of the In New Brunswick, Canada, when wall-to-wall ingrain carpet- generally occur when a loom critical challenges currently facing during the 1790s, as much as ing first became fashionable in with a limited number of shafts the craft world. Thirty-two lead- 20-30% of the total value of an American homes in the 1830s, is used. In “A Double-Cloth ers of various craft organizations, estate was often assigned to the many professional weavers began Odyssey: John Duncan’s Back makers, and creative thinkers bedding. In “Sleep Tight: The to produce both Jacquard-woven Harness, the Ekenmarks, and the in the field convened to begin Meaning of Bedding in Southern double-cloth coverlets, (some- Enigmatic Long Island Coverlets,” a dialogue about future col- New Brunswick, Canada 1787 times called “carpet coverlets”), Patricia Hilts suggested an alter- laborative efforts and how to -1830,” Judith Rygiel explored and ingrain carpeting (often native–the use of a loom with address questions and issues the significance of this valuation known as Kidderminster). For a shaft-draw system, or “back across media. Advisory and by examining legal documents, example, Ohio weaver Jacob M. harness,” like that described in task committees formed at the account books, diaries, and news- Slusser, best known for coverlets, 1808 by Scottish weaver, John conclusion of the Think Tank to papers. In early New Brunswick advertised in 1840 that he wove Duncan. Duncan’s back-harness continue the conversation and culture, fine bed coverings were carpets. By contrast, Isaac Brown, is best known for its use by the research via website exchange. an important status symbol, and another Ohio weaver, is best Ekenmark family in Scandinavia Chris Amudsen, American Craft even people who lived in log remembered for the carpets he for damask weaving, but it is Council Executive Director; John also known to have been used Rose, Media Enterprises CEO; for weaving double-cloth, also and Pat Hickman facilitated described as “English floor cloth.” the discussion, “Looking into the Hilts tested her conclusions by Future: Cooperation.” TSA was building a back-harness for her the voice of textiles at this gather- own loom and weaving a sample ing, presenting our field’s history with a Long Island-type pattern and the experiences that inform Pat Hilts’ our engagement with the future plus name and “hen tracks.” reproduction of the weave of craft in America. M. Kati Meek, who has been studying and replicating the tex- structure of an early Long Island- – Pat Hickman tiles and costumes of Lithuania style double-cloth coverlet.

Fall 2012 13 produced during the latter part of various exhibitions document- which used a board with pegs eight different looms; the warp of his career, but he also wove at ed such events as Anni Albers’ to control the pattern. Other from one loom becoming the least 52 signed and dated cover- experiments with innovative early Pennsylvania fancy weav- weft for another, as sections lets. Early ingrain carpeting was loom-controlled weaving, Mary ers studied by Walter were John were placed at right angles to composed of strips which were Walker Phillips’ contributions to Lanz, John Kaufman, S. and J. each other to form a massive joined edge-to-edge to cover the knitting as an art form, Walter Hausman, Solomon Kuder, and abstract form that was hung from floor. Taste in ingrain carpet pat- Nottingham’s crocheted forms, Jacob Biesecker Jr. Walter also the ceiling. terns from 1830-1850 favored Kay Sekimachi’s double-weave speculated on the influence of Martha Reeves discussed medallions similar to those in creations with nylon monofila- the early patent looms of Horace Tarascan lace, a hand-picked, pat- coverlets. Flower designs became ment, and Sheila Hicks’ experi- Baker (1827 and1830), and terned leno woven on backstrap popular during the 1850s; in ments with fiber sculpture. Also David Pollay (1830). His ongoing looms by the Tarascan Indians of the 1870s, scattered motifs in included was basketry by Ed research promises to illuminate Mexico. The lace may have been browns and golds or in reds and Rossbach and Susan Weisman’s an area of textile history that is an indigenous development, but greens reflected the Eastlake installations of creative spinning. still not entirely understood. it may also have been introduced influence; in the 1880s-90s, Znamierowski emphasized the The final Saturday paper by an early Bishop. Weavers in dense allover patterns became contributions during the 1980s of was “John Murphy’s A Treatise the US have also worked in the the norm. Gunn suggested that, several Polish fiber artists, includ- on the Art of Weaving: The Book, technique, and the Handweaving by focusing on carpet weaving, ing Magdalena Abakanowicz, Its Publication History, and the Museum houses Tarascan lace some weavers were able to con- Zofia Butrymowicz and Ewa Equipment Included in It” by woven by Gladys Smith and by tinue their profession even after Jaroszynska. In a provocative Marjie Thompson and Jean Berta Frey. hand-woven coverlets had lost conclusion, she asked whether Hosford. Scottish author John Finally, Megan Kerr, the their appeal and mass-produced fiber art “has become a category Murphy published his first weav- museum’s new collections assis- carpeting had become available. that faces relegation to the dust- ing book in 1810. His second tant, guided us through the gal- Nell Znamierowski’s talk bin of history as a product of its book, A Treatise on the Art of lery displaying pieces recently on “The Growth of the Fiber era. Will it survive as a specific Weaving, came out in 1824 donated to the museum by Art Movement” was remarkable art form or become a historical when the cotton industry was noted weaving teacher and his- because it focused on the history novelty of the late 20th century?” flourishing in Britain, and 11 torian, Ruth Holroyd. Holroyd, a of weaving as art, and it repre- Ron Walter’s presenta- editions had been issued by lively nonagenarian, was present sented the views of an actual tion, “Some Early Pennsylvania 1857. In spite of the impor- for this session. witness to this history. Fancy Coverlets,” brought the tance of his book, John Murphy The 2012 Weaving History Znamierowski noted that the focus back to the 19th century. remains a mysterious figure, and Conference was the 18th term “fiber art” did not exist until Many textile historians have little is known about his life. annual conference hosted by 1970 and traced the beginnings admired Walter’s recent exhibit the Handweaving Museum in of the fiber art movement from on domestic textile tools at Other Programming Clayton, NY. The multi-faceted its roots in rya-rug weaving to a the National Museum of the Saturday’s dinner speaker, Ted presentations relating the history well-received international exhibi- American Coverlet in Bedford, Fall of TD Fall and Company, of weaving to developments in tion at the Museum of Modern PA, and the fine exhibit catalog, presented a brief slide show art, technology, social history, Art in 1969, when art weavings Stay at Home and Use Me Well. on the history of velvet, which cultural history, and economic were called “wall hangings.” Flax and Fleece: Fiber to Fabric. included pictures of some Italian history have always started the After 1970, the term ’fiber art’ Several questions framed Walter’s firms that still weave velvet summer on a high note for its came into vogue and fiber artists talk: Who were the earliest “fancy in the traditional manner. He enthusiastic attendees. This con- moved along a trajectory that coverlet” weavers in Pennsylvania, passed around a great variety of ference was no exception. brought their creations “off the how were they related, and what luscious velvet samples woven –Patricia Hilts wall” and eventually toward instal- kind of equipment did they use? by noted firms, including Kravet, lation art. Znamierowski’s slides In Berks county alone, Walter Lee Jofa, Ralph Lauren, and found 320 weavers and 10 fancy Brunschwig & Fils. coverlets listed on the tax rolls of Sunday morning featured 1837. So far, the earliest identifi- three round-robin sessions TSA Newsletter able Pennsylvania fancy coverlet highlighting the Handweaving ATTENDING A Deadlines was woven by John Shawda in Museum’s collections. Sandra CONFERENCE? 1830; Shawda purchased the Swarbrick showed pieces woven • March 30 • July 30 rights to use a patent loom the by Mary Snyder in 1979 for a Take some TSA brochures • November 30 same year. Another Pennsylvania solo exhibition in Banff. One along with you. Contact Please send news, exhibition fancy weaver active in the 1830s spectacular piece was “Textile Char in the TSA Office to reviews, book reviews, was Leonard Metz, who, in Terminate,” woven in double- request brochures to hand 1831, purchased rights to use a conference reviews, event cloth and requiring the use of out at your next meeting or Jonathan Conger patent loom listings, and articles to: textile-related event. Karen Searle, Editor [email protected] [email protected]

14 tsa newsletter Native Americans through essays on the historical background, significant paintings of Western sub- Exhibition jects, and photographs by Edward Curtis, plus selected artifacts, Reviews including textiles. The exhibition came about thanks to Laura C. Johnson, an American art historian living in Florence, who had studied at the new frontier: history and Oklahoma University, and to culture of the native americans Osvaldo Giovannelli, formerly from the collections of the of the Uffizi Gallery. “The New gilcrease museum Frontier” is situated within the Deerskin beaded dress, 19th c., detail. Tulsa, Gilcrease Museum. Pitti Palace, Florence, Italy Baroque and Victorian-style July 3-December 9, 2012 interiors of the Medici Grand and Spanish Medici branch offic- soft deerskin boots in the exhibi- Ducal palace which, in the 19th es, but, was then hired by the tion have already become cov- erman J. Viola, Curator century, was a residence of the Spanish crown to provision and eted fashion objects. In fact, one emeritus at the Smithsonian’s Italian kings. The resulting con- H navigate the state galleons. By a of the 2013 trends at the recent National Museum of Natural trast is certainly eye-opening for quirk of fate, his name was given Florence Pitti Fashion and Textile History, and Robert B. Pickering, European viewers. to the New World, rather than trade shows ran along the same Deputy Director of the Buffalo Our 2012 TSA Symposium that of Christopher Columbus lines as this exhibition: vibrant Bill Historical Center, Cody, WY, theme, Textiles & Politics is surely or Giovanni da Verrazzano. A colors, concha belts, beading, sil- (also a forensic anthropologist), present throughout this show. German cartographer, Martin ver jewelry, and moccasins. The have created an extraordinary Here are share some of the Waldseemuller, had received sec- 1970s Western-look is already display in Florence’s Pitti Palace. things I noticed on viewing it. ond-hand information concerning being produced and sold as high- The aim of the exhibition was The exhibition is part of a Amerigo Vespucci’s letters and priced fashion. to reach and inform a general centenary celebration honoring named the area "America" for That is something to pon- public, and this has been expertly Amerigo Vespucci (Florence, Amerigo on his 1507 Map! der. It seems to me that this achieved. However, as a textile 1454-Seville,1512). The four Times have not changed. exhibition has turned the tables historian, I noticed many Old Vespucci expeditions (1497- Italian merchants are still seek- around: the “New World” is World-New World cross-currents. 1504) were intended to find fast- ing new far-away markets to sell being re-discovered by the The catalogue (English and er commercial routes to prime their luxury fashions and goods, “Old World,” thanks to the vast Italian texts) edited by Duane luxury resources (gold, spices, whether it’s China, Africa, or Native Americana collections H. King, Executive Director of silk, wool, and precious gems): Brazil. We are now living at a of the Gilcrease Museum in the Gilcrease Museum and Vice- The Indies. His family belonged crucial time. Politically, the gener- Tulsa, founded in 1949 by the President for Museum Affairs to the Florentine banking and ational transition which occurred Oklahoma oil magnate, Thomas at the University of Tulsa, with textile merchant oligarchy con- within Native American tribes Gilcrease (1890-1962), who is Herman J. Viola, provides a trolled by the Medici. Amerigo from the 1870s land-tenure trea- of Muskogee (Creek) heritage. wealth of information about the first worked in the Portuguese ties to their Euro-American “edu- Lorenzo di' Medici and Thomas cation and acculturation,” closely Gilcrease would certainly have parallels the present time, in understood each other. Both which the European Community were astute businessmen. Both is seeking to become ‘the United shared an overwhelming desire States of Europe.’ Even now to collect objects of beauty and there is an overwhelming global were highly aware of the histori- fusion accelerated by the inter- cal past that they represented: net. And where might the next they were patrons of the arts “new” frontier be—outer space who persevered in spending travel? great sums to amass incompa- Clothing is a marker of rable collections. belonging to a “global tribe.” http://www.unannoadarte.it/eng/ Italian fashion stylists and design- america.html ers immediately raided the New –Rosalia Bonito Fanelli Frontier show! The wonderfully

“Crucita , Taos Indian Girl in Hopi Wedding Dress and Dried Flowers”, Joseph Henry Sharp, 1926-28. Tulsa, Gilcrease Museum.

Fall 2012 15 establishing of a Knitting Heritage Nov. 13-15, 2013: Tinkuy de The Textile Museum. Sept. Museum, Wisconsin Historical Tejedores, Cusco Peru. Weavers 21-Mar. 10, 2013: “The Society with the Yarn Group meeting organized by the Center Sultan’s Garden: The Blossoming of The National Needle Arts for Traditional Textiles, Cuzco of Ottoman Art.” Curated by Calendar Association. For textile curators, includes pre- and post-conference Walter Denny and Sumru conservators and collectors, tours to weaving villages and Krody. The Ottoman Empire educators, designers, industry archaeological sites. developed a unified visual aes- representatives, practitioners, and http://www.aracari.com thetic during the reign of anyone who believes that knitting http://the-center-for-traditional- Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent and crochet deserve a museum. textiles-in-cuzco.html (r. 1520–1566), influenced by Conferences & Speakers include author Susan artist Kara Memi, who introduced Strawn and curator Melissa forms from nature. To Jan. 6, Symposia Leventon, with Trisha Malcolm, Exhibitions: 2013: “Dragons, Nagas, and VP/Editorial Director of Vogue Creatures of the Deep.” Sept. 27-Oct. 12: Waste to United States Knitting, and Jack Blumenthal, VP http://www.textilemuseum.org Wealth, International Symposium of Lion Brand Yarn. Highlights and Exhibition on Natural Dyes California include “Curators’ Choice,” an Florida (ISEND) and World Eco-Fiber Los Angeles County Museum exhibit of historic knit and cro- Ruth Funk Center for Textile and Textile (WEFT) Forum. of Art. Apr. 15-Apr. 14, 2013: chet objects at the Wisconsin Organizer: Edric Ong, President, “Stitching Worlds: Mola Art of Arts, Florida Institute of Historical Society. Organizer: Society Atelier Sarawak. the Kuna.” Curated by Elena Technology, Melbourne. Sept. Karen D. Kendrick-Hands www.societyatelier.com Phipps. 8-Dec. 15: “Battle Worn: Masculine [email protected] http://www.isendweft2012.com http://www.lacma.org Ideals and Military Identity in http://www.regonline.com/ Modern Japanese Textiles.” knittingheritagemuseumaworkin- http://textiles.fit.edu Oct. 1-5: Encuentro de San Jose Museum of Quilts progress Tejedores de las Américas in and Textiles. To Oct. 14: “2nd Cusco, Peru. Meeting of weavers International TECHstyle Art Hawaii Jan. 18-19, 2013: American and textile scholars. Biennial (ITAB).” Juried exhibition Honolulu Museum of Art. To Tapestry Alliance. Interweaving http://www. curated by Deborah Corsini. Jan. 13, 2013: “Boardshorts: A Cultures: The Meeting, interna- encuentrodetejedorescusco.com Sept. 12-Dec. 8: “ZERO1 Perfect Fit.” Curated by Sara tional gathering of tapestry weav- Biennial: Seeking Silicon Valley,” Oka. Chronicling the evolution ers at Museo Textil de Oaxaca Oct. 2-5: International Turkish featuring Kimberlee Koym- of a simple garment that today (MTO), Mexico followed by an Handwovens (Textile) and Murteira, “The Fractured Weave.‘ symbolizes extreme sports and opportunity to work with weavers Traditional Arts Congress, http://sjquiltmuseum.org a sought-after lifestyle. Includes from Teotitlan del Valle. Includes Azerbaijan. Turkish hand-woven surfing gear from six surf stars. exhibits of tapestries; discussions textiles, illumination, tiles, tradi- Colorado http://honolulumuseum.org of issues regarding personal pro- tional design, dyes, and iconogra- Denver Art Museum. To Nov. cesses and the creation and diffu- phy are addressed. Ahmet Aytac. 25: “Sleight of Hand,” with 14 Maryland sion of tapestry work, sharing of [email protected] contemporary artists. To Dec. 30: Baltimore Museum of Art. ideas, and building relationships. tel +9.0.507.259 33.44 “El Anatsui.” Oct. 25-Feb. 24, 2013: “BAM http://www.americantapestryalliance. http://www.denverartmuseum.org Biennial 2012: High Fiber Diet.” org/education/interweaving Oct, 17-20: 1st International Juried exhibition featuring 46 Istanbul Textile Art-Design District of Columbia fiber artists. May 14-16, 2013: SMARTEX Symposium at Sultanahmet Hillwood Estate, Museum & http://www.artbma.org 2013, 3rd World Textile Marmara University, Turkey. This Gardens. To Dec. 30: “Prêt- Conference, Sharm Elsheakh, symposium includes papers and Egypt. Organized by The Textile á-Papier: The Exquisite Art of workshops, a textile art exhibi- & Apparel Branch of the Home Isabelle de Borchgrave.” Painter tion, and a fashion show. Economics Department, Faculty de Borchgrave has recreated http://sempozyum.marmara.edu. of Specific Education, Kafrelsheikh elaborate costumes by crumpling, tr/tekstilsanatitasarimi2012 University, and North Carolina pleating, braiding, and painting the State University College of surface of rag paper to achieve Nov. 8-10: Influences on Textiles. Scientists from interna- the effect of textiles and create the American Quilts: Baltimore to tional textile teaching, research illusion of haute couture. Bengal at Colonial Williamsburg. and development institutions, http://www.hillwoodmuseum.org Papers and optional DC tour. and industry will discuss devel- http://www.history.org/cont.ed opments in the field of textile materials, technologies, fashion, Nov. 8-10: The Knitting and marketing. Heritage Museum Project, Chipp, madras jacket, ca. 1970. http://www.kfs.edu.eg/smartex2/ Madison WI. Symposium on The Museum at FIT, 87.111.4, display.aspx?topic=7306 gift of Glenn Forbes. 16 tsa newsletter exhibition explores The Museum at FIT, NYC. To how designers create Nov. 10: “The Great Designers, clothing and acces- Part Two.” Catalog. Sept.14-Jan. See You sories with sensitiv- 5, 2013:“ Ivy Style,” celebrating at ity to environmental, enduring classic fashion. Catalog. economic, and social Nov. 27-May 8, 2013: Fashion & the Symposium! concerns. Technology. http://goldstein.design. http://www.fitnyc.edu/museum umn.edu/exhibitions France Pennsylvania Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris. Dec. Minneapolis Philadelphia Museum of Art. 13-Apr. 21, 2013: “Fashioning Institute of Arts. To Spring, 2013: “Samplers.” Fashion: European Dress in Nov. 12-Apr. 21: From ATHM exhibition: Detail, Curated by Laura Camerlengo. Detail, 1700-1915,” organized by “Craft and the Hand: From Visible Quilt, Log Cabin Design, ca. 1865. http://www.philamuseum.org LA County Museum of Art. Wool, (68" x 65") attributed to to Integral.” “Sarah” of Anna, IL. Two of her sons http://www.lacma.org http://artsmia.org Wisconsin fought in the Civil War; one for the Confederacy and the other for Design Gallery, Madison. Sept. the Union. After the war, she cut Textile Center, Minneapolis. 14-Oct. 21: “Process: Discovery Lectures and and stitched their uniforms into a Sept. 7-Oct. 13: “Ages and & Response,” Design Studies Workshops patchwork record of division and Stages: Teresa Paschke and Jodi Department faculty/staff exhibit. reunification. Collection: Illinois State Colella.” Museum. http://www.Designgallery.wisc.edu Workshops and Courses http://textilecentermn.org at the Lisio Foundation: Kaplan Gallery, Rockville. To The Lisio Foundation, Florence, Oct. 17: “Complex Weavers: Nebraska Exhibitions: Italy, offers many learning Glamour, Glitter, Glitz,” traveling International Quilt Study International opportunities each semester exhibit. Jurors: Patrice George, Center & Museum, Lincoln. in weaving on Jacquard looms Sandra Rude, and Bhakti Ziek. “Sept. 7-Jun. 2, 2013: “Indigo Canada and drawlooms, as well as http://www.visartscenter.org Gives America the Blues,” features Textile Museum of Canada, courses in textile identification 13 quilts from the early 1800s- Toronto, ON. Sept. 19 Nov. 18: and analysis. New offerings this Massachusetts 1980s that illustrate the history “Wanderlust” with artists Jordan season include “Introduction to American Textile History of indigo dyeing in the US, plus Bennett, The Color Collective, Jacquard Weaving: Drawing with Museum, Lowell. Jun. 30-Nov. antique fabric samples, woven and NorBlack NorWhite, who the Weft,” “Historical Techniques 25: “Homefront & Battlefield: coverlets, and doll and crib quilts combine new media and popular and Technologies,” “Recognition Quilts & Context in the Civil that display the versatility of indi- culture with inherited textile of Embroidery Stitches and War.” Honoring the sesquicen- go dye in American textiles. To traditions. Oct. 17- Jan 6: “Natural Techniques,” and special courses tennial commemoration of the Feb. 24, 2013: “SAQA Showcase: Resources: Textiles and Material such as “Designing Your Dream American Civil War (1861-65) The Studio Art Quilt Associates Translation” explores interrela- Bag.” Courses are taught by Julie through textile-related artifacts. Invitational.” To Dec. 2: “What’s tionships among materials, Holyoke, Eva Basile, and other http://www.athm.org in a Name? Inscribed Quilts.” construction, function and design, textile specialists. All courses are http://www.quiltstudy.org and investigates new innovations. held in English and/or Italian. Fuller Craft Museum, View Online exhibitions at: To Sept. 30: ”Dreamland: didat@fondazionelisio Brockton. To Jan. 20: “Spin http://www.quiltstudy.org/ Textiles and the Canadian Lisio Foundation Cycle: The Intersection of Craft exhibitions/online_exhibitions Landscape.” To Dec. 30: Via Benedetto Fortini, 143 and Politics.” “Perpetual Motion: Material 50125 FIRENZE http://www.fullercraft.org New Mexico Re-use in the Spirit of Thrift, tel 055-6801340 Museum of International Folk Utility and Beauty.” http://www.fondazionelisio.edu aryland M Art, Santa Fe. To Jan. 6, 2013: http://textilemuseum.ca Kaplan Gallery, VisArts Center, “Young Brides, Old Treasures: Rockville. Sept.4-Oct.17: Macedonian Embroidered Dress.” China “Complex Weavers: Glamour, Traditional clothing and jewelry Zhejiang Museum of Art and Glitter, Glitz.” of Macedonian village women, China National Silk Museum, http://visartsatrockville.org/kaplan- 1890-1950. Hangzhou. Sept. 2013: gallery http://www.moifa.org “Fiber Visions: First Hangzhou International Fiber Art Exhibition.” innesota ew ork M N Y http://www.fiberarthangzhoucom/ Metropolitan Museum of Art. Goldstein Gallery, University en/triennial_theme_1.html of Minnesota, St. Paul. Jan. To Oct. 14: “The Coe Collection At the Textile Museum of Canada: 19-May 26, 2013: “Redefining, of American Indian Art.” John McQueen, “Untitled #106,” Redesigning Fashion.” Juried http://www.metmuseum.org Section 4 (detail), 1982, plant fiber. Gift of Vincent Tovell.

Fall 2012 17