Take a Bite of the Basque Country

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Source: The Independent {Main} Edition: Country: UK Date: Tuesday 8, March 2016 Page: 51 Area: 448 sq. cm Circulation: ABC 55193 Daily Ad data: page rate £10,472.00, scc rate £44.00 Phone: 020 7005 2000 Keyword: Basque Country

Take a bite of the Basque Country

Small snacks win big in San Sebastián, discovers SARAH MARSHALL on a tour of pintxos bars in the northeastern Spanish gem

tenders will try to pile tourists’ plates the fabled Gastronomic Societies that Booking ahead to reserve a restaurant high. The Basque-born founder of have provided a breeding ground for table is commonplace, but arriving Discover San Sebastián started her the city’s wealth of Michelin-starred early to secure a slice of tortilla baffles food tours after she found herself chefs. Members meet to cook din- me. Clearly Nestor’s potato-layered constantly coming to the aid of for- ners for each other, although only snack is the best in town, otherwise eigners in bars. She clearly has the men are allowed to exercise their my guide, Eskerne Falcon, wouldn’t best recommendations. At La Cepa skills in the kitchen. have us queuing up at midday to order she waves aside a plate of anchovies There are, though, plenty of other a slice for a strict 1pm time slot. and demands a fresh order. When a affordable restaurants, such as Ni Eating is serious business in San plump, pert sliver of oily fish arrives Neu, where a six-course tasting Sebastián, which is a European Capi- on warm bread, I can see her point. menu with cocktail and wine costs tal of Culture for 2016. Boasting more One of San Sebastián’s most pop- just €38.50. A creamy rice with baby Michelin stars per square metre than ular pintxos is a Gilda, named after squid cooked in a pan punches far Paris, the northern Spanish coastal Rita Hayworth’s 1940s femme fatale. above its humble starter status. town has a reputation for fine dining. We have a chance to make our own at With too many temptations avail- But it’s the lively culture of crawling the bustling Atari Gastroteka, stack- able, it’s a wonder residents stay in between boisterous bars in the old ing green peppers, anchovies and shape. But as I stroll along the Belle town to sample pintxos (a Basque ver- olives onto cocktail sticks as patri- Epoque promenade overlooking the sion of tapas) that brought me here. otic Basque music triumphs through crescent-shaped La Concha beach, I Shunning the airport, I took an speakers. It’s accompanied by a glass realise health and fitness are consid- overnight Brittany Ferry from Port- of Txakoli, a fruity local white wine. ered as important as food. Kayakers smouth to Bilbao, an hour from San paddle around the bay, while runners Sebastián, arriving in time for lunch. If substituting pintxos for lunch, sprint along the pavement. I settle for There are 200 bars crammed into you’ll need about six bites (approx. €2 pampering in the La Perla beachfront the old town, serving what started in each) but after six glasses of wine you spa, dipping into Jacuzzis, jet pools the 1950s as a small snack to encour- might want to downsize to a zurito – a and an underwater gym. age garrulous men to spend more thimble-sized glass of beer. Two old ladies run out of the sauna, time – and money –in the bars argu- For dessert we have an eggy, well- along the sandy beach hand in hand, ing about politics and football. Crea- baked cheesecake from La Viña, and dive into the sea. Most people tions range from bread and jamón to where shelves are stacked high with are still in winter coats and I shudder elaborate Dalí-esque works of art. its homemade star product. at the thought of what temperature “Whatever you do, just order one San Sebastián’s foodie creden- the water might be. Whether eating, pintxo at a time – along with a drink,” tials are linked largely to its position drinking or playing sport, Basque advises Eskerne, warning that bar- between mountain and sea, but it’s people are a determined bunch. d ill il i ’ l hfbldG iS i i h

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Brittany Ferries operates a cruise ferry from Portsmouth to Bilbao from £670 return for a car plus two passengers in mid-season, including en-suite cabin accommodation both ways. Visit brittany-ferries.co.uk Visit spain.info and ineedspain.com

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