Long Sleeve Top Fi06010 Table of Contents

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS LONG SLEEVE TOP FI06010 TABLE OF CONTENTS

METHODOLOGY ...... 3

Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instruction ...... 8

SEWING ...... 9

1. Back ...... 9 2. Right side seam ...... 10 3. Bodice casing ...... 12 4. Leˆ side seam ...... 14 5. Sleeve ...... 16 6. Collar ...... 25 7. Button loop ...... 30 8. Hemline and sleeve opening ...... 35 9. Shank button ...... 38

GLOSSARY ...... 41

Long sleeve top FI06010 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY

SYMBOLOGY

PATTERN MARKINGS

SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE

CENTER LINE FOLD LINE

PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE

GATHER STRETCH

BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE

BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH

SEAM STRUCTURE

INTERFACING FABRIC

ZIPPER SERGE

CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH

SEWING LINE FOLD LINE

Long sleeve top METHODOLOGY FI06010 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger

Universal foot Serger foot Overedge foot Edge stitching Foot

Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch

9

8

7 3 6

5

4 2

3

2 1 1

Thread snips Tailors chalk; Safety pin Ruler soap or fabric pen

3” 4 8

3” 1” 1” 1

1 4 2

1 8

1” 1”

4 1”

8 5”

Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle

Long sleeve top METHODOLOGY FI06010 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED

• Fabric • Serger threads • Sewing needle / Universal • 1/4” (6 mm) width elastic • Sewing thread • One 3/8” (1 cm) Shank Button

The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric

BODY MEASUREMENTS FABRIC 55” (140 cm)

BODY HEIGH T 65” (164 cm)

BUST 33” (84 cm) 71” (160 cm) MI N HIP 36” (91 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 73” (185 cm)

BUST 59” (150 cm) 116” (300 cm) MA X HIP 60” (152 cm)

Recommended fabrics:

FABRIC TYPE WEIGHT / OZ (g) ELASTANE %

Viscose Challis Light 0-3 % Charmeuse /4oz - 6oz (136g - 204 g)/ Lingerie Medium /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272 g)/ Rayon Challis Medium Heavy Crepe /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339 g)/ Silk Satin Lingerie

Long sleeve top METHODOLOGY FI06010 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES

TOP FABRIC PIECES

Front A Back Right B Back Le C Sleeve Le D Sleeve Right E Sleeve Flounce Le DA Sleeve Flounce Right EA Collar AA Neckline Casing AC Front Casing AB Back Casing BB Sleeve Casing Le DB Sleeve Casing Right EB

* Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not ‚t the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.

Long sleeve top METHODOLOGY FI06010 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Fabric key

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing

Laying out and cutting fabric

Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains;

=” =”

1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.

Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.

Long sleeve top METHODOLOGY FI06010 Page 7 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTION

SERGE illustration

action

Finishing the side seams.

PLACE

seam structure

Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.

SEW

Sew the side seams.

instruction

Long sleeve top METHODOLOGY FI06010 Page 8 How to read instruction SEWING 1. BACK 1.1 SERGE

Finish the CB seams with a serger stitch. If you don’t have a serger, you can also use the mock overlock stitch or a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine.

1.2 PLACE

Place the CB seams with the right sides together.

1.3 SEW

Sew the CB seams to the notch.

Long sleeve top SEWING FI06010 Page 9 1. Back 1.4 PRESS

Press the seam allowances open.

1.5 SEW

Topstitch the CB slit. Sew a 1/16” (1 - 2 mm) from the edge.

2. RIGHT SIDE SEAM 2.1 PLACE

Place the back and front pieces with the right sides together. Match the notches and seamlines.

Long sleeve top SEWING FI06010 Page 10 2. Right side seam

BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,

YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING

AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION

Thank you, Fayma Team