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Home , Bustline, Shank (sewing), Whip stitch

Extension Bulletin 57 6 August 1965

BUTTONS AND

~· . ,.• \ 1 SKILLS

You'll probably find a need for both worked and of the overlap-the distance from center front or bound buttonholes. Whichever type you choose, back to the folded edge. The overlap should be one­ make sure the buttonholes are: half the diameter of the plus ~ to 1f2 inch. • The right size for the button you plan to use. Check your to see that one button is • Spaced evenly and in relation to the important placed at your natural . There should also fitting points of the garment. be a button at approximately the fullest part of the • Straight with the grainline of the garment. . It's usually a good idea to make some sample button­ Placement of the top will depend on holes in a scrap of fabric before trying to work on the of the garment and your individual the garment itself. figure. If it's necessary to try the garment on, just loosely baste the shoulder and side seams. SIZE AND PLACEMENT Your pattern will show the size and spacing of BUTTONHOLE MARKINGS the buttonholes. The holes should be as long as the Transfer buttonhole markings to the right side diameter of the button, plus thickness. On bulky of the fabric with machine or hand basting (Fig. 1). fabrics, you may wish to make the hole Ys inch Use two colors of that contrast with the fabric: longer. • Use one color to mark the center front or back Do not try to make a major change in button line. Mark both left and right sides of the size after the garment has been out. A much garment. larger or smaller button calls for changing the width • Use the other color to mark the spacing of the buttonholes. Also use it to mark both ends of the buttonholes. The front end should be Y8 inch beyond the center line. Be sure all markings are on the straight of . If there is more than one buttonhole, mark them all before starting to .

WORKED BUTTONHOLES Worked buttonholes are usually made on casual dresses and blouses. They are made after the neck edge is finished and the is in place. They should be made before the side seams are closed, however, as this makes handling easier. Worked buttonholes are made either by hand or FIG. 1-Use basting to mark the center machine. Machine-made buttonholes, though, are line of the garment, the ends of the but­ tonholes, and the center line of each definitely stronger and faster to make. Follow the buttonhole. instructions given with your .

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY PULLMAN, WASHINGTON I I I I I 1 "'------r ~-----~ . ~ t- "''------~:111. ../ ------~ ---=--' ,------, 1 I I 1 I I

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FIG. 2-M.lchine baste strip to FIG. 3-Stitch lfs inch from fold­ FIG. 4-From wrong side, slash garment along center line. Then ed edge. Stitch only length of down center and diagonally to baste Y4 inch on both sides. buttonhole, 20 stitches per inch. each corner of the buttonhole.

FIG. 5-Push buttonhole strip to FIG. 6-After squaring corners, FIG. 7-Turn back edge of gar­ wrong side of garment. Pull ends overcast lips together to keep the ment. Stitch triangle to strip. to square corners. buttonhole firm. Use about 20 stitches per inch.

BOUND BUTTONHOLES or true bias grain. Bias is used with some fabrics to add interesting texture or pattern contrasts. Bound buttonholes add a professional touch to Fold and lightly press a line lengthwise down coats, jackets, dresses, and blouses. They are made the center of the strip. Cut into sections twice as long before the facing is applied. as the planned buttonholes. Use an for added strength and firm­ Place the center line of a strip over the cross­ ness in the buttonhole area of the garment. Choose wise marking of the buttonhole, right sides of fabric a lightweight, firm fabric. Baste the interfacing in together. Allow extra fabric at each end of the place before starting the buttonholes. buttonhole. There are m any ways to make bound buttonholes. Machine baste down the center line. Then baste Both of the follovving give good results. 1;1 inch on both sides of the center (Fig. 2 ) . This basting can extend beyond the markings for each end of the buttonhole but it must be accurate and on STRIP METHOD the straight of grain. For each buttonhole you will need a strip of Fold one edge of the strip toward the center fabric 1 Y2 inches wide and twice the length of the along the basting line. Press lightly. Using about buttonhole. It is easiest to cut one strip of fabric 20 stitches per inch, stitch :Ys inch from the folded long enough for all the buttonholes, including the edge (Fig. 3 ). Do not stitch beyond the basting lines practic·e ones. marking the ends of the buttonhole. Be sure this Cut the strip of fabric on the straight of grain stitching is also accurate and on the straight of grain. T 1f2 '' l

FIG. 8-Press 'h-inch fold along FIG. 9-Press and stitch tuck FIG. I 0-Stitch 'Ia inch from edge of strip. Stitch tuck slightly along other edge. The folds folded edge. Stitch between wider than Va inch. ~hould be 'h inch apart. markings, 20 stitches per inch.

Fold the other side of the strip and stitch the Fold, press, and stitch the other side of the strip same. Pull threads to the wrong side and tie with the same way. You now have two tucks and the a square knot as you did on darts. Remove the folded edges should be Yz inch apart (Fig. 9 ) . Check basting. to see that both tucks are even and equal in width. If you wish, you may cord the buttonhole. This Then cut the tucked strip into sections twice the is good if the buttonhole is made of a bias strip or length of each buttonhole. Lay a section over the a lightweight fabric. Use a needle or bodkin center of the buttonhole, right sides together. Be sure to pull a or thin cord through the lips of the strip is centered over the buttonhole markings. the bottonhole. Extra fabric should extend beyond each end of the From the wrong side of the garment, slash down buttonhole. the center of the buttonhole. Follow the the tuck to the garment exactly Ys inch grainline. Stop at least % inch from each end and from the folded edge. Use about 20 stitches per inch clip diagonally to each corner (Fig. 4). To prevent (Fig. 10). This line of stitching will be next tc the accidentally slashing the garment, cut with the points original stitching on the tuck. Stitch only the exact of the only. length of the buttonhole markings. Do both sides the Then push buttonhole strip through to the wrong same way. side (Fig. 5). Pull the ends to square both corners. Check the stitching again to see that the two Lightly overcast the lips together to hold them in rows are exactly even in width and length. Tie place while you finish the buttonhole (Fig. 6) . threads on the wrong side. With the right side of the garment up, turn back A tucked buttonhole may also be corded as ex­ the garment edge to show the end of the buttonhole. plained before. Then slash the buttonhole, overcast At the end there will be a triangle formed by the the lips together, and finish the ends the same as the slashing done before. Stitch this triangle to the end strip method. of the strip to finish the end of the buttonhole (Fig. 7) . Use about 20 stitches per inch. Finish the other end the same way. FINISHING BUTTONHOLES off the extra fabric around the buttonhole When you have completed the garment facing to about Y2 inch. This is all that can be done until and neckline, you are ready to finish the back of the you finish the neckline and facing. bound buttonholes. This may be done in one of two ways, depending on the fabric. TUCK METHOD For a tucked buttonhole, cut a 1 Yz -inch strip of FIRST METHOD fabric as described before. Baste along each side of On a lightweight fabric and one that will not the strip Yz inch from the edge. ravel, the buttonholes may be finished very easily. Using one of the basted lines as a guide, press First, the facing in place against the garment. a Yz -inch fold the length of the strip. Press wrong Put a pin through each end of the buttonhole to sides of fabric together. Stitch slightly more than mark its size on the facing. Ys inch from the folded edge (Fig. 8) . Use a regular Then slash the facing in a straight line between stitch. the . Be sure to follow the grainline. Fold under ,------, I I I ; ------1 I I !______! I I I

FIG. 11-Fold under cut edges FIG. 12-Stitch rectangle the size FIG. 13-Slash, turn to in­ of facing and to back of buttonhole in facing and lining side. Press. stitch facing to of buttonhole. only. back of buttonhole. the cut edges about VB inch. Then whip stitch the stitches loose enough to form one. A good way to facing to the buttonhole back (Fig. 11). do this is to place a pin or darning needle across the top of the button but under the thread (Fig. 14). SECOND METHOD Stitch over the pin. After several stitches, remove the pin. Pull the If the fabric is heavy or ravels easily, a sturdier button up from the garment and wind the thread buttonhole finish is needed. four or more times around the loose stitches under First, cut a small square of lining fabric. Baste the button. This forms the . Fasten the thread it to the right side of the facing o•ver the buttonhole. with two or three small stitches at the base of the Lay the facing back against the garment so you shank. can mark the size of the buttonhole on the lining. If the button has a short shank but needs more, To do this, stick a pin through each corner of the put the pin under the button and stitch over it. buttonhole. Use small basting stitches to replace the Even if the button has a long shank, do not sew it pin markings. Then stitch a rectangle the size of tightly to the garment. the buttonhole. Be sure to stitch through the facing and lining only (Fig. 12). Slash the rectangle down the center and diagon­ ally to each corner. Then turn the lining inside and press. Slip stitch to the buttonhole back (Fig. 13).

SEWING ON Buttons are usually sewn on the center front line or the center back line. Use a double thread and make several small stitches to fasten the thread where you want to sew the button. If you are using a two-hole button, stitch with the holes the long way of the buttonhole. This keeps the hole from spreading when the garm~nt is FIG. 14-To make a button shank, stitch over a pin placed above or below the but­ buttoned. ton. Wind thread tightly around the loose If the button does not have a shank, make the stitches.

This bulletin was prepared by Hazel L. Roberts, Extension C lathing Specialist, Washington State University.

Published and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the Washington State University Extension Service, John P. Miller, Director, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooperating. 15M-865