BERNINA Needles

Top quality – for all brands of household sewing machine www.bernina.com/needles CHOOSING THE RIGHT NEEDLE UNDERSTANDING THE COLOUR CODE

The quality and choice of needle have a signifi- In order to help identify the needle size and needle cant influence on the quality of the sewing and type, certain BERNINA needles have a colour code. embroidery results. The first colour shows the application and the second colour shows the needle size. 1. Determine the needle type, based on the material and application (first coloured band). Needle type Needle size (fabric/application) (fabric/thread) 2. Select the appropriate thread. The thickness of NM SIZE the thread determines the size of the eye and Universal therefore the needle size (second coloured band). 120 19 Stretch 110 18 Jersey / Embroidery 100 16 Information on the lid of the needle box Jeans 90 14 Leather 80 12 Microtex Needle size 75 11 Open the lid so it is Quilting 70 10 possible to see the size Embroidery 60 8 Metafil Needle point Topstitch

Fine Fabrics Needle designation Needle type Hemstitch Double Eye Overlock Opening direction NEEDLE POINTS AND EYE SHAPES THE RIGHT NEEDLE/THREAD COMBINATION

The chart shows the most important types of needle, Needle/thread ratio broken down according to their needle point and eye shapes. The point is the first part of the needle to penetrate the Needle type Needle eye Needle point material. The right needle point is essential for a good H UNIVERSAL sewing result. During sewing and H-S embroidery, the thread slides through the eye of H SUK the needle several times at high speed. H-E It is therefore important to choose the right needle/ H METAFIL thread ratio: the thread should pass smoothly and H-J snugly through the eye of the needle.

H-Q For fine fabrics, it is recommended to use a straight stitch needle plate and a straight-stitch foot. H-LR UNIVERSAL NEEDLE STRETCH NEEDLE

• System 130/705 H • System 130/705 H-S With a slightly rounded With a medium ball point; point, for trouble-free the special eye and scarf area sewing of numerous types prevent skip stitches, especially of materials. in highly elastic fabrics. • Needle sizes NM 60 to For elastic materials and highly NM 120, also assorted elastic knitted goods. • Needle sizes NM 75 and NM 90 • Colour coding: yellow

Also available as Also available as a TWIN and TRIPLE NEEDLE TWIN NEEDLE

THE CHOICE OF NEEDLE IS BASED ON THE MATERIAL A jour knitted goods – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY AND THE APPLICATION A NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 90 Artificial fur (funfur) – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE Below is an alphabetical list of various materials and or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 100 applications, along with the corresponding needle types Artificial leather – LEATHER NEEDLE NM 90, recommended by BERNINA. NM 100 or JEANS NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 110 The information in this brochure should be regarded as general guidance only. Always test the needle beforehand Bed-linen, jersey – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 on a scrap of material. B Bed-linen, woven – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 100 Belseta – MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90 JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE JEANS NEEDLE

• System 130/705 H SUK • System 130/705 H-J With a medium ball point, The sharp, thin point penetrates for knitted fabrics and precisely through close, thick embroidery. fabrics. The reinforced blade • Needle sizes NM 60 to causes less deflection of the NM 100, also assorted needle and reduces the risk • Colour coding: orange of needle breakage and skip stitches. For denim (jeans), artificial leather, waxed cloth, film and similar tightly woven fabrics. • Needle sizes NM 80 to NM 110, also assorted • Colour coding: blue

Belseta – MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90 Cambric – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 60, NM 70 Bouclé – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 70 to C Canvas – JEANS NEEDLE NM 90 to NM 110 NM 90 Chambray – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90 Brocade – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or MICROTEX NEEDLE Chenille – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 90 NM 60 to NM 90 Chiffon – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or MICROTEX NEEDLE Burn-out velvet – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 NM 60, NM 70 or FINE FABRICS NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90 Coarse knitted material – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90 Coated material – MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 110 or JEANS NEEDLE NM 100, NM 110 Coats – UNIVERSAL PRO NEEDLE NM 90 to NM 110 Corduroy – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 100 LEATHER NEEDLE MICROTEX NEEDLE

• System 130/705 H LR • System 130/705 H-M With cutting point With a very sharp, slim point (LR = reversed twist point) for precise piercing of very for easier penetration. fine or densely woven For leather, artificial leather materials. or similar materials. For particularly precise • Needle sizes NM 90 and stitching when topstitching NM 100 edges, also for silk, microfi- • Colour coding: brown bre fabrics, coated and film materials. • Needle sizes NM 60 to NM 110, also assorted Do not use on woven • Colour coding: purple or knitted fabrics!

Cotton knitwear – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE Denim – JEANS NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 110 NM 70 to NM 90 or STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 D Double decorative seams – TWIN NEEDLE Coverstitch – COVER STITCH NEEDLE NM 90 (special needles are available for the different appli­ Crêpe – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or MICROTEX NEEDLE cations), NM 70 to NM 100, NE 1.6 mm to 8.0 mm NM 60 to NM 80 Double-face – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 110 Crêpe-de-Chine – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 80 Elastic material – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 Crinkle – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or MICROTEX NEEDLE E Embroidering – EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 NM 60 to NM 80 or JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 70, NM 90 or Cupro – MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 80 METAFIL NEEDLE NM 80 Curtains – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90 QUILTING NEEDLE EMBROIDERY NEEDLE

• System 130/705 H-Q • System 130/705 H-E With a very slim, slightly System 130/705 H-E rounded point which easily With a small ball point penetrates thick layers and a particularly wide eye without damaging the and groove compared to material. the JERSEY / EMBROIDERY For stitching/topstitching NEEDLE, to accommodate tasks, such as quilting and voluminous threads and patchwork. woollen threads. • Needle sizes NM 75 and For embroidery. NM 90, also assorted • Needle sizes NM 75 and • Colour coding: green NM 90, also assorted • Colour coding: red

Fancy threads, decorative threads – EMBROIDERY Foundation garments – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, F NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 or METAFIL NEEDLE NM 80 NM 90 or JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 70 Felt – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 100 to NM 90 Felting – FELTING NEEDLE Fur cloth – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 100 or Film (vinyl, artificial leather, waxed cloth) – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90 MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 110 or JEANS NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 110 Gabardine – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 100 Fine jersey – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75 G Gauze – FINE FABRICS NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80 Fleece – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90 or Georgette (as well as Crêpe Georgette) – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 60 Fleece, multilayer – UNIVERSAL PRO NEEDLE to NM 80 NM 90 to NM 110 FINE FABRICS NEEDLE METAFIL NEEDLE

• System 130/705 H SES • System 130/705 H METAFIL With a small ball point for With a very long eye (2 mm fine, delicate materials, such in all needle sizes) as velvet. compared to the UNIVERSAL • Needle sizes NM 70 to or EMBROIDERY NEEDLE. NM 90, also assorted For sewing with special and fancy threads, especially metallic threads. • Needle size NM 80 • Colour coding: antique pink

Half-linen – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80 Jersey – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 70, H Hemstitching – HEMSTITCH NEEDLE NM 100, NM 80, for elastic materials STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75 NM 120 or HEMSTITCH TWIN NEEDLE NM 100 Highly elastic knitted material (Lycra, silk jersey) – Knitted fabric – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75 K NM 70 to NM 100 Knitwear – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 70 to Jacquard fabric – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 90, for elastic materials STRETCH NEEDLE J NM 100 NM 75, NM 90 Jeans – JEANS NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 110 Jeans, multilayer – JEANS PRO NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 100 TOPSTITCH NEEDLE FELTING NEEDLE

• System 130/705 H-N • System PUNCH With a very long eye (2 mm Needle with barbs for in all needle sizes) compared felting a variety of yarns and to the UNIVERSAL or threads into base fabrics. EMBROIDERY NEEDLE. Replacement needles for the For decorative stitching and BERNINA PunchWork set. topstitching with multiple threads and also for replacing missing stitches in embroidery. • Needle sizes NM 70 to NM 100 • Colour coding: light green

Lace – Select needle individually to suit material, Lycra – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 or JERSEY / L NM 60 to NM 90 EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90 Lamé – MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 90 Lavable – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 90 Metallic threads – METAFIL NEEDLE NM 80 Leather – thick, hard artificial leather – LEATHER M Microfibre fabric – MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 60 NEEDLE NM 100 or JEANS PRO NEEDLE NM 100 to NM 90 Leather – thin – LEATHER NEEDLE NM 90 or Multicoloured decorative seams – DOUBLE EYE JEANS NEEDLE NM 90 NEEDLE NM 80 or TWIN NEEDLE (special needles are Linen – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90 available for the different applications) NM 70 to Loden (woollen felted fabric) – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 100, NE 1.6 mm to 8.0 mm or TWIN NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 120 NM 80, NE 3.0 mm HEMSTITCH NEEDLE DOUBLE EYE NEEDLE

• System 130/705 H WING • System 130/705 DE With a „wing“ on each side With two eyes, for deco- of the needle blade, which rative sewing using fancy pushes the fabric aside. threads. For decorative seams and • Needle size NM 80 hemstitching in loosely woven fabrics. • Needle sizes NM 100 and NM 120

Also available as a TWIN NEEDLE together with a UNIVERSAL NEEDLE.

Nettle fabric – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 100 Panne velvet – FINE FABRICS NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80 N Nylon – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or MICROTEX NEEDLE P or STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75 or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 90 NM 70, NM 80 Patchwork – QUILTING NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 Organdy (glass cambric) – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or Pintucks – TWIN NEEDLE (special TWIN NEEDLES are O MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 60, NM 70 available for the different applications) NM 70 to Organza – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 100, NE 1.6 to 4.0 mm; for elastic materials: NM 60, NM 70 STRETCH TWIN NEEDLE NM 75, NE 2.5 mm or 4.0 mm Overlock seams, trimming seams – There are different Polyester – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or MICROTEX NEEDLE needle systems, see machine manufacturer‘s information NM 60 to NM 100 Poplin – MICROTEX NEEDLE or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 80 COVER STITCH NEEDLE TWIN AND TRIPLE NEEDLES

• System ELX705 CF Only for zigzag machines with With a second groove, transversal hook! which is required for trou- TWIN and TRIPLE NEEDLES are also ble-free coverstitch seams. available for special applications. The chrome coating gives They have the same characteristics the needle a wear-resistant as the equivalent single needles. surface. For coverstitching and serging on multilayer, Applications: pintucks, single- elastic fabrics. colour and multicoloured • Needle size NM 90 decorative seams, hems • Colour coding: black

Quilting – QUILTING NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 Shirts with elastic threads – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75 Q Silk jersey – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75 Reversible – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or JERSEY / EMBROI- Single jersey – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75 R DERY NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 100 Suits – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90 Sweatshirt fabrics – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE Seersucker – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90 NM 70 to NM 90 or JERSEY / EMBROIDERY PRO NEEDLE S Sequined material – MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 70 to NM NM 80, NM 90 90 or STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 Serging (overlock seams) – There are different needle systems, see machine manufacturer‘s information Shirts – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80 UNIVERSAL TWIN NEEDLE STRETCH TWIN NEEDLE

• System 130/705 H ZWI 70/1,6 • System • System 130/705 H ZWI 80/2,0 130/705 H-S ZWI 75/2,5 • System 130/705 H ZWI 80/2,5 • Needle distance NE 2,5 mm • System 130/705 H ZWI 90/3,0 • Needle size NM 75 • System 130/705 H ZWI 80/4,0 • System 130/705 H ZWI 90/4,0 • System • System 130/705 H ZWI 100/4,0 130/705 H-S ZWI 75/4,0 • System 130/705 H ZWI 100/6,0 • Needle distance NE 4,0 mm • System 130/705 H ZWI 100/8,0 • Needle size NM 75

• Needle distance NE 1,6 to • Colour coding: yellow NE 8,0 mm • Needle sizes NM 70 to (Colour coding only on NM 100 card, not on needle)

Table-linen – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 100 T-Shirt – hems and edges – STRETCH TWIN NEEDLE T Taffeta – MICROTEX NEEDLE or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 75, NE 2.5 mm or 4.0 mm NM 60, NM 70 Tulle – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or JERSEY / EMBROIDERY Terry cloth – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90 NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80 Thermovelour (fleece) – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to Twill – JEANS NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 110 NM 90 or STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 Topstitching – QUILTING NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 or MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 90 Triple decorative seams – TRIPLE NEEDLE NM 80, NE 3.0 mm HEMSTITCH TWIN NEEDLE UNIVERSAL TRIPLE NEEDLE

• System • System 130/705 H ZWIHO 100/2,5 130/705 H DRI 80/3,0 • Needle distance NE 2.5 mm • Needle distance NE 3.0 • Needle size NM 100 mm • Needle size NM 80 1 UNIVERSAL NEEDLE together with 1 HEMSTITCH NEEDLE

Velour – FINE FABRICS NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90 W Waxed cloth – MICROTEX NEEDLE or JEANS NEEDLE V Velour jersey – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 or NM 80 to NM 100 FINE FABRICS NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90 WING-needle – HEMSTITCH NEEDLE NM 100, NM 120 Velvet – FINE FABRICS NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90 or Wool and wool blends – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE to NM 100 NM 70 to NM 90 Wool and wool blends, multilayer – UNIVERSAL ­PRO Viscose – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80 NEEDLE NM 90 to NM 110 Voile – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 80 Workwear – JEANS NEEDLE NM 100, NM 110 Z ZWIHO – HEMSTITCH TWIN NEEDLE NM 100 UNIVERSAL PRO NEEDLE JEANS-PRO-NADEL

• System 130/705 H PRO • System 130/705 H-J PRO With an elongated groove The elongated groove and and slightly rounded point, sharp, thin point make it easier for problem-free sewing, to sew close, thick and multi­ particularly of thick, multi­ layer fabrics. The reinforced layer fabrics. blade causes less deflection of • Needle sizes NM 90 to the needle and reduces the risk NM 110 of needle breakage and skip stitches. For denim (jeans) and similar tightly woven fabrics. • Needle sizes NM 80 to NM 100 (Colour coding only • Colour coding: blue on card, not on needle) JERSEY / EMBROIDERY PRO NEEDLE HOW TO RECOGNISE PRO NEEDLES

• System Groove: This serves to guide the 130/705 H SUK PRO needle thread to the eye and With an elongated groove protects the thread as the needle and medium ball point, for pierces the fabric. The length and knitted fabrics and embroi- width of the groove depend on the dery. Especially suitable for needle system. thick and multilayer fabrics PRO NEEDLES have a longer groove due to the long groove. to help prevent the occurrence of • Needle sizes NM 80 to skip stitches and thread breakages NM 100 with multiple/thick fabric layers. • Colour coding: orange PRO

(Colour coding only on card, not on needle) NEEDLES FOR SPECIAL MACHINES

GLOSSARY – FREQUENTLY USED ABBREVIATIONS Universal and Cover Stitch Needles AND TERMS can be used on BERNINA coverstitch NE – Distance between the needles in mm for TWIN and TRIPLE machines and overlockers. The PRO NEEDLES needles with a longer groove are NM – Metric needle size, e.g. NM 80 = 0.8 mm blade diameter ideal for BERNINA longarm quilting machines. BERNINA also offers flat shank needles (130/705 H) for household sewing machines and round shank needles (134 and 287 WH) for special machines. The best sewing results are obtained by changing your needle regularly. Skip stitches and thread breakages during sewing are signs that your needle is faulty. BERNINA needles have the name BERNINA and their needle size marked on the shank.

More information is available at www.bernina.com/needles