Bulletin Post C O A S T

W E S G N I

S L O U T I O N S

All About Needles

Contents

Introduction •

The basic functions of a needle •

Needle Parts: Physical characteristics •

Needle Identification •

Round Point Needles •

Needle Size / Thickness •

Comparison of Equivalent Needle Sizes •

Common Problems and Solutions •

Needle Checklist •

Checking a Needle that is already in a Machine •

Contact us about Needles • Bulletin Post The intermediatesectionbetweentheshankandblade. ■ providing additionalstrength. The thicker part of the needle held by the needle clamp or the needle set screw. It supports the needle as a whole by ■ the bottomarea. to taken is eye this through allowed thread Needle blade. the of end bottom the in present is needle the of eye The ■ of needlethread. It isformedontheothersideof longgroove, towards theshuttle,hook,orlooperand itassistsinthrowing the loop ■ provides aprotective channel inwhichthethread isdrawndownthrough the materialduringstitchformation. and device take-up the from thread needle the of convenience the for blade needle the of side one in present is It ■ heat whenitpassesthrough thematerial. The needle portion extends from the shank to the eye. This is subjected to the greatest amount of friction and hence ■ The shapedtopendwhichfacilitatesinsertionintotheneedlebar/clamp. ■ A needlehasvariouspartstoexecutedifferent functionsduringthesewingoperation asfollows: • • • machine sewing of understanding better a gain help to needles. together put been has guide following The points. systems popular more there the can be in up to and 15 sizes, available, with each of sizes these needles 6-8 systems and between sizes being have available in a typically range of will different type) needle (needle system needle Each sewing machineryorevenincreases inmachinespeed. Needle systems may be introduced for a number of reasons such as the introduction of new or specialised fabrics, new been have (systems) types developed overtimetoensureneedle eachsewingmachinethatusesthemperformsatitsbest. many Very needles. or needle the is machine sewing any of feature central The Needle Parts: Physical characteristics The basic functions of a needle Introduction To passtheneedlethread through theloopformedbyloopermechanismonmachinesotherthanlockstitch mechanism looper or hook the by up picked be can which loop a form and material the through thread needle Tothe carry To create apassageinthematerialforthread topassthrough Shoulder Shank Long groove(s) Blade Butt Eye Short groove blade shank butt point tip eye groove short long groove scarf scarf land groove second long

Contents 1. 2. 3. Resistance and their Fire of Fibres Types 4. Applications Thread for Various Resistance Standard Fire Fibres 5. for Various Operating Temperature Maximum Aramids Comparing Coats Products Resistance and their Fire of Fibres Types Flame Retardancy Material Ignition ¢XC / ¢XF Temp Cotton Combustible, ignites and burns Combustible, burns may self-extinguish slowly and Polyester 421 / 790 252 / 485 Nylon Combustible, burns slowly and may self-extinguish Meta Aramid 449 / 840 flame from when removed self-extinguishing Flame retardant Para Aramid - Glass Fibre flame from when removed self-extinguishing retardant Flame Quartz will not burn Flame retardant will not burn Flame retardant - - Ceramic will not burn Flame retardant - Cottonthreads, which continue burnto relativelyat lowtemperatures, should avoidedbe anyattime there a is - possibility of contact with fire. Standard polyester and nylon threads are combustible, but will burn slowly and may self-extinguish. categories: fall into three threads resistant Fire that do not burn1. Threads flame from that burn when removed 2. Threads in flame but self-extinguish that burn,3. Threads but burn and may self-extinguish slowly Fire & Heat Resistant Threads Fire This bulletin will help you understand the properties resistant and of fire heat and resistant threads to fibres help you select the best for thread your application.

Bulletin Post

SKL SKF SUK SES SPI R

Scarf (Clearance) Scarf Tip Other variants Point Special ball point (SKL) Heavy Ball Point (SKF) Medium Ball Point (SUK) Light Ball Point (SES) Set Cloth Point also referred to as normal round point (R) point to as normal round Set Cloth Point also referred Slim Set Point also referred to as acute round point (SPI) to as acute round Slim Set Point also referred Round, set or cloth points Cutting or leather points Size System Point Round Point Needles Point Round Needle Identification Identification Needle ■ to looper or hook, shuttle, the of setting closer a permit to eye the above just blade needle the in cut clearance a is It the needle. Most needles are constructed using these features but there are a number of exceptions. Some of which may have the machine requirements. issues or simply designed to meet seaming specific been developed to overcome ■ performance. with the point defines penetration tip shape, in combination The extreme ■ ■ The point of the needle is shaped to provide the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn according to effect. stitch and the desired its nature ■ Used for medium and very coarse knitwear. elastomeric threads covered to course elastic materials with This point is used for coarse knitwear and for dense sewing woven elastic (it won’t through). push the elastic yarn fabric. It is also used for particularly sand-washed and stonewashed grades. medium to coarse denims, ■ ■ This point is used for sewing medium weight knitted ■ This point is used for sewing lightweight knitted fabric. It is sometimes used for fine denim and light, densely woven material to avoid damaging the material. ■ seams as it pushes the yarn the side. This point is used for normal fabrics with standard to Round Point Needles - Applications: There are believed to be around twenty different round points available out of these six are in common use. available out of these six are points round twenty different believed to be around are There A needle point is classified broadly into two types: broadly A needle point is classified • • advisable to check with the machine manufacturer for suitability of needle system to machine. suit the machine type. Depending on the machine and its stitch type, the needle is designed with variations in length of blade, shank thickness, type of eye etc. It is • A needle system defines the dimensions of a needle to parameters and they are: parameters and they • • A sewing machine needle is identified with three This point is used for dense woven fabrics as seamit pucker. causes less damage, helps set a straightershirts. in cuffs and collars of topstitching stitchmaterials, coated fabrics, woven densely and microfibre for andused Commonly minimizes ■ System ❑ ❑ Point Contents 1. 2. 3. Resistance and their Fire of Fibres Types 4. Applications Thread for Various Resistance Standard Fire Fibres 5. for Various Operating Temperature Maximum Aramids Comparing Products Coats Resistance and their Fire of Fibres Types Flame Retardancy Material Ignition ¢XC / ¢XF Temp Cotton Combustible, ignites and burns Combustible, burns may self-extinguish slowly and Polyester 421 / 790 252 / 485 Nylon Combustible, burns slowly and may self-extinguish Meta Aramid 449 / 840 flame from when removed self-extinguishing Flame retardant Para Aramid - Glass Fibre flame from when removed self-extinguishing Flame retardant Quartz will not burn retardant Flame will not burn Flame retardant - - Ceramic will not burn Flame retardant - Cottonthreads, which continue burnto relativelyat lowtemperatures, should avoidedbe anyattime there a is - possibility of contact with fire. Standard polyester and nylon threads are combustible, but will burn slowly and may self-extinguish. categories: fall into three threads resistant Fire that do not burn1. Threads flame from that burn when removed 2. Threads in flame but self-extinguish that burn,3. Threads but burn and may self-extinguish slowly Fire & Heat Resistant Threads Fire This bulletin will help you understand the properties resistant and of fire heat and resistant threads to fibres help you select the best for thread your application.

Bulletin Post LL 110 LLCR S LL 65 90 Nm 110 130 250 SD1 – – – – – LR 100 100 100 100 100 DH x x x x x D diameter in mm 0,65 0,9 1,1 1,3 2,5 P Cutting Points Wedges: PCR

PCL D P DI DI S VL VR LR VR Cutting Point Needles Point Cutting with a number of other size references. the American system that uses a number that represents represents that number a uses that systemAmerican the a size. Below shows these Nm and Singer comparisons along wide which is shown in Nm as 110. The alternative standard needle sizing method Singer/Asia numbering system sometimes isreferred to as the millimetre in diameter, while a Nm 50 needle is half a millimetre in diameter. The thickness of the blade on the right is 1.1mm a number metric (Nm). This represents the diameter of the needle blade measured just above the scarf but not at any reinforced in hundredths part of the blade. For example, a Nm 110 needle of is 1.1 a millimetre The size of a needle is generally represented in one of by others).methodisOne are (althoughways twothere Cutting Points Overview: Cutting Points Cutting Points Spear: pierce the material more readily than the round point types thereby generating less needle heat. There are a large number of cutting points of which around 11 in are regular use. Cutting point needles have sharp tips like blades. These tips are available with a wide variety of cross-sectional shapescross-sectional of variety wide a with available are tips These blades. like tips sharp have needles point Cutting suchlens,astriangularrounded, Theyusedcanandsquare.bewhile sewing dense, non-fabric basedmaterial. They ❑ ❑ Needle Size / Thickness / Size Needle Bulletin Post However, a larger-than-normal needle may have to be used to penetrate thicker fabric, or stitch over the top of top the over stitch or fabric, pronouncedthicker orbulkyseams. penetrate to used be ✧ to have may needle larger-than-normal a However, ✧ • • Here’s aquickwaytodetermineif thethread andthesewingmachineneedleare compatible: ❑ the objectsandangleofviewallaffect appearance. strikes light the which at angle the one, diffused large a or source small a from coming is illumination the Whether product. a of contrasts and colour parent the affects also illumination the of geometry The shadow. in seen be may that detail of amount the greater the and appear colours saturated more the illumination, the brighter the general, In shadows. in visible detail of amount the and colours of purity apparent the affects illumination of brightness The Determining the Right Needle for a Thread Impact of Brightness and Position of the Light Source Comparison ofEquivalentNeedleSizes Take half ametre ofthethread beingusedonthemachineandthread itthrough the eyeofalooseneedle Hold thethread verticallywiththeneedleattop Singer 32.5 23.5 22.5 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 ✧ 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 If theneedleisrightsize,it willslowlyspiraltothebottomofthread If theneedleistoosmall,itwill stickatthetopofthread If theneedleistoobig,itwilldrop tothebottomofthread Metric (Nm) 400 380 350 330 300 280 250 230 200 180 170 160 150 140 130 125 120 110 105 100 95 90 85 80 75 70 65 60 55 50 45 40 35 079/080 047/048 029/030 Special Union 156 140 120 110 100 90 78 67 60 54 49 44 42 40 38 36 34 32 27 25 22 ------Lewis 4.5 3.5 2.5 5.5 5 4 3 2 7 6 ------Merrow 10 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 0 0 9 8 7 ------W&G New No. 48 44 40 36 32 30 27 25 24 22 52 49 ------459R 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 9 6 7 8 ------Bonis 292 10 11 12 13 14 16 18 20 21 22 0 1 2 3 4 6 7 9 ------

Bulletin Post www.coatsindustrial.com • • • • • • • • • • • Inserting aNewNeedle below, alongwiththepossiblesolutions: mentioned are breakage for reasons common the of some and sewing during break can needles machine Sewing Please Checking a Needle that is already in a Machine Needle Checklist Common Problems and Solutions When indoubtchangetheneedle! Is thepointdamaged? Is theeyerough orblocked withmeltedfibre? Is theneedlebent? Is theneedlecontactinganymachineparts? Is theneedleinsertedcorrectly? isn't needle the sure make to manually wheel contacting anyparts hand machine the turn machine the in needle a inserting After Ensure thattheangleof needleiscorrect Make sure theneedleispushedallwayintoholder Make sure theneedlesize/eyefitsthread sizebeing used Always ensure theneedleiscorrect needlesystem forthesewingmachine The needleistoodelicateforthefabric contact The needledoesn’t goinproperly Usage ofapoorqualityneedle Pulling thefabricasyousew The presser footisloose yourlocalSalesOffice tofindoutmore aboutneedles. Reason This putsstress ontheneedleandbendsitoutofplace;so, It willcausetheneedletohitfootandbend,sothere Check yourmanualandmakesure itisinsertedproperly care shouldbetakentoensure theclothisn’t pulled should beascrew youcantightenthefootwith Use heavygaugeneedlesforsewingheavier Use goodqualitybrandedneedles fabrics likedenim in themachine Solution November 2014