Magnolia Dress Fiii04008 Table of Content

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MAGNOLIA DRESS FIII04008 TABLE OF CONTENT

METHODOLOGY ...... 3

Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instruction ...... 10

SEWING ...... 11

1. Darts ...... 11 2. Belt ...... 12 3. Belt pleats ...... 14 4. Shoulder seams ...... 16 5. Facing shoulder seams ...... 15 6. Button loop ...... 19 7. Armhole and neck facing ...... 22 8. Hemline ...... 28 9. Shank button ...... 30

SEWING SUGGESTIONS ...... 33

Suggestions of the dart sewing ...... 33

GLOSSARY ...... 39

Magnolia dress FIII04008 Page 2 Table of content METHODOLOGY

SYMBOLOGY

PATTERN MARKINGS

SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE

CENTER LINE FOLD LINE

PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE

GATHER STRETCH

BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE

BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH

SEAM STRUCTURE

INTERFACING FABRIC

ZIPPER SERGE

CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH

SEWING LINE FOLD LINE

Magnolia dress METHODOLOGY FIII04008 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger

Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Edge stitching Foot

Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch

7 3 6

4 2

2 1 1

Thread snips Tailors chalk; Bobbins Ruler soap or fabric pen

3” 4 8

3” 1” 1” 1

1 4 2

1 8

1” 1”

4 1”

8 5”

Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle

Magnolia dress METHODOLOGY FIII04008 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED

• Fabric • Sewing thread • Sewing needle / Universal • Serger threads • Fusible interfacing • One 3/8” (1 cm) Button

The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric

BODY MEASUREMENTS FABRIC 55” (140 cm)

BODY HEIGH T 65” (164 cm)

MI N BUST 33” (84 cm) 68” (173 cm)

HIP 36” (91 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 73” (185 cm)

MA X BUST 59” (150 cm) 238” (605 cm)

HIP 60” (152 cm)

Recommended fabrics:

FABRIC TYPE WEIGHT / oz (g) ELASTANE %

Satin Medium 0-3 % Challis /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Charmeuse Medium Heavy Linen Blends /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g)/ Silk Jersey

Magnolia dress METHODOLOGY FIII04008 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES

B AC

DRESS FABRIC PIECES

Front A Back B Front Facing AC Back Facing BC Belt AB

* Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not t the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.

Magnolia dress METHODOLOGY FIII04008 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Fabric key

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing

Interfacing placement on garment

Laying out and cutting fabric

selvage bias

gr ain

selvage

Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains;

Magnolia dress METHODOLOGY FIII04008 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”

1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.

Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.

Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool down. Aer fusing, the interfacing and fabric will be stitched as one piece of fabric.

Magnolia dress METHODOLOGY FIII04008 Page 8 Sewing technology AC BC

Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric.

Magnolia dress METHODOLOGY FIII04008 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTION

SERGE illustration

action

Finishing the side seams.

PLACE

seam structure

Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.

SEW

Sew the side seams.

instruction

Magnolia dress METHODOLOGY FIII04008 Page 10 How to read instruction

BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,

YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING

AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION

Thank you, Fayma Team