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OPPOSITE: STACKS DRIZZLED WITH MINT MAKE A MEATY ENTRÉE. (RECIPE ON PAGE 55). THIS PAGE FROM LEFT: PANORAMIC VIEW OF ’S ANCIENT CITY; HOLLY AND VEFA (ON RIGHT) INTHESSALONIKI. Viva

THE FIRST LADY OF GREEK DISHES Vefa!ON HER COUNTRY’S CULINARY WONDERS by Holly Rudin-Braschi and John C. Braschi Greek culinary superstar Vefa Alexiadou sets her seaside supper table with elegant simplicity. “Ella, ella! Come, come! The is ready!” she calls. We sit under large umbrellas, shielded from the late afternoon Aegean sun reflecting off her white marble terrace. On a hand-embroidered white linen table- cloth, Vefa artistically arranges numerous porcelain platters brimming with her colorful recipes. food photography by “This is traditional ,” she says, “Fresh, flavorful, and uncomplicated, cooked with MARTIN BRIGDALE love, and enjoyed leisurely with family and friends.” food styling by Sharing a at Vefa’s table makes it easy to understand why the citizenry love the dynamic first LINDA TUBBY prop styling by lady of Greek Cuisine. Though she’s a professional chemist with a degree from the University of HELEN TRENT , Greece, Vefa has always found time to entertain friends, family, and business associates. GRILLED FIGS AND LEMONS In 1980, at the urging of these friends, Vefa published Invitation to Dinner, her first book of recipes. (RECIPE ON PAGE 42) AND ORANGE-GINGER The book, like her food, received rave reviews and established Vefa Alexiadou Editions as a competi- SKIRT (RECIPE ON PAGE 45) tive publishing house. It also sparked a revival of pride and interest in Greek culture and cuisine. ARE PERFECT DISHES FOR TEAM . The worldwide impact of Invitation to Dinner and Vefa’s 11 successive titles cemented her rep- utation as a world-class . This year, Vefa was honored by the International Association of Culinary Professionals as one of three nominees for its prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award of Excellence. At the 2000 World Cookbook Awards in the “Salon International Livre Gourmand

of Perigueux,” she won awards for the “Best Mediterranean Cookbook in Greek” and also the Macduff Everton; bottom: John Braschi Top: special prize for “Best Culinary Business Professional.”

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we cook, serve, and eat our food, too. From ancient times, we have eaten our largest meal midday to stay out of the afternoon heat, and smaller for and supper. Silk traders from the East brought in nutmeg, , and black pepper, we use today in desserts, cooked grains, CLOCKWISE: EVENING DINING AT triad,” or the diet of civilized most important utensils in and various meat dishes. The THE STROFI RESTAURANT IN man. This triad of staples is Greek today. We use Romans introduced eggplant, ; MIXING IT UP ON THE still the basis of all traditional it to fry, sauté, and braise dishes peaches, and citrus fruits, while TALK SHOW MORNING COFFEE; THE Mediterranean . much as our ancestors did, us- the Arabs taught us to distill ACROPOLIS WAS THE CULTURAL ing ingredients they would spirits like , our national HUB OF . have used. We continue to cook liquor made from anise seed. most, if not all, of our food in When Greek-speaking Byzan- Since 1990, Vefa has ap- When did oil. Our main dishes still tines made the peared daily on Greece’s top- Greek cooking focus on grains, , center of their Greco-Roman rated talk show, Morning wild greens, legumes, cheese, empire, the best chefs, artists, Coffee, where she continues to become a and eggs, with small amounts of and artisans from around the share the richness of Greek cuisine? meat, poultry, or fish; , known world flocked to this culinary traditions with hun- If you define cuisine as how food yeast , and are still new center of wealth and power, dreds of thousands of house- is cooked, served, and savored, served with all of our meals. holds. In 1994, she opened the we Greeks trace our cuisine to Our main seasonings are still first of 20 Vefa’s House cook- ancient times. We were one of salt, parsley, , , and ware stores, which are now the the first peoples to cook our mint. We continue to wrap Williams-Sonomas of Greece. food in , to season it food in leaves; to eat yo- Currently completing the offi- with fresh herbs, and then serve gurt as a dip, side dish, or snack; cial cookbook for the 2004 it with and for the to serve dried and preserved Olympics in Athens, Vefa enjoyment and delight of our fruit; and to use nuts and shared with us some of her family and friends. in our desserts. which led to a great exchange of delicious recipes, as well as her If you visit the national ar- ideas and techniques. thoughts on what has made chaeological museum in Athens, Byzantine traders also the Greek diet the epitome of you will find an ancient bronze brought salt and caviar a healthy cuisine. frying pan about nine inches in What were from the Black Sea, something diameter and an inch deep. Its the major we still use today in our appe- handle is sculpted to resemble tizer dip . Salt- the god Apollo holding the sun influences on cured cheeses were introduced What influence [the pan] above his head with Greek cuisine? at this time, too, among them did the outstretched hands. This one There were a lot of factors! The feta, a cheese we now serve at simple frying pan sums up sea gave us a bounty of fish. Our all meals. The custom of ancient Greeks 3,500 years of Greek cui- hot climate and rocky terrain snacking on many small dishes, have on the sine…[it is] useful, uncompli- provided us with that or mezedhes, while drinking cated, yet beautiful, a vessel could only flourish in harsh spirits developed into a fine art Mediterranean worthy of both a feast for the conditions…olives, , wild during this era. diet? gods and a simple supper for a greens, herbs, grains, figs, Later on, Venetian traders Starting in about the 10th century humble man. honey, milk products from brought in New World crops B.C., Greek mariners settled A frying pan of the same and . Climate has al- like corn, and Ottoman Turks

throughout the Mediterranean shape and size is still one of the ways played a large role in how introduced coffee. Clockwise from top: Macduff Everton; John Braschi; Everton region that is now Spain, Libya, France, Sicily, Southern Italy, Asia Minor, and the Black Sea. Wherever these sailors went, they wanted to reproduce the food of their homeland, so they planted vineyards to make wine, olive orchards to make olive oil, and cereals to make bread. To- gether, these three foods are what we Greeks call the “holy ZO: S92 53

SIMPLE INGREDIENTS COMBINE TO GIVE LEMON OREGANO CHICKEN A FLAVOR THAT’S EXTRAORDINARY (RECIPE ON PAGE 56). ;J ; ZO: S92 54

BITE INTO THESE FLAKY, SYRUP-COATED PASTRY ROLLS AND YOU’LL FIND A SWEET ALMOND CUSTARD (RECIPE ON PAGE 56). This page Holly Rudin Braschi ZO: S92 55

Bring What makes Kosher salt 3 Greece Greek cuisine ⁄4 cup olive oil 4 to 5 large green bell to Your 1 so healthy? peppers, in ⁄2-inch-thick We have always eaten a healthy rings Table diet without knowing it. Ac- 1 (1 lb.), thinly sliced “IT IS EASY TO COOK GREEK STYLE IN cording to a recent study com- 2 cups juice AMERICA, because all of our main paring the life spans of people 2 tablespoons finely ingredients are available in most across Europe, Greeks live the chopped fresh mint grocery stores,” says Vefa. “Fresh is 1 longest. This may be due to the About ⁄2 teaspoon finely best when it comes to fruits, veg- way we have eaten since antiq- ground black pepper etables, and herbs.” Here are 1 uity, by balancing food intake About ⁄2 teaspoon salt Vefa’s suggestions for using tradi- with moderate exercise. The 1 to 2 large tomatoes, tional Greek ingredients in your modern nutrition community thinly sliced crosswise everyday cooking. recently rediscovered our “Mediterranean diet,” and be- 1. Wash eggplant, wipe dry, Seasonings 1 lieves that this explains why we and slice horizontally into 1 ⁄2- Olive oil, lemon juice, wine vinegar, gar- suffer fewer deaths from serious inch-thick rounds. Sprinkle lic, onion, green onion, parsley, with salt and allow to drain 1 oregano, mint, and dill 2 hour in a colander. Rinse slices For an all-purpose dressing, combine ⁄3 1 under running water and gently cup olive oil with ⁄3 cup lemon squeeze out excess water. juice or wine vinegar. Season with 1 2. Heat ⁄4 cup olive oil over 1 tablespoon of a mixture of any of medium heat in a 12- to 14-inch the fresh herbs above, and add nonstick pan. Lightly fry half of salt and pepper to taste. the eggplant slices until lightly Drizzle over green salads, , hot browned, about 3 minutes per salad, or freshly cooked veg- 1 side. Repeat with ⁄4 cup olive etables, or as a marinade for grilled oil and remaining slices. meats, poultry, or fish. COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM 3. Arrange eggplant slices in a ABOVE: THE DISPLAY OF single layer in a large nonstick Cured Greek Olives: FOODS AT ATHENS MARKET SEEMS roasting pan. Place a pepper Toss pitted olives in green and pasta sal- ENDLESS. ON MT. PELION, VEFA ring on top of each eggplant ads, with cooked vegetables. ENJOYS MARINATED HORTA (WILD round. Set aside. Top frozen or homemade GREENS) WITH RED PEPPERS AND 4. Using the same roasting pan, with chopped olives and chopped 1 OLIVES PREPARED BY HER FRIEND heat remaining ⁄4 cup olive oil green sautéed in olive oil. ALEKA. ARE FRESH over medium heat. Lightly sauté Sprinkle with shredded mozzarella, FRUITS PRESERVED IN SYRUP OFFERED onions in the oil until transpar- a dash of oregano, and sliced toma- TO WELCOME VISITORS. ent and lightly browned, about toes before baking. 10 to 15 minutes. diseases like cancer, heart dis- 5. Add tomato juice, mint, Feta Cheese ease, and stroke than other pepper, and salt. Adjust heat to Serve sliced with fresh bread and honey Europeans do. medium-high and cook sauce for breakfast. The Greek diet revolves until slightly thickened, about 3 Crumble over greens, pasta, or potato around heart-healthy mono- to 5 minutes. Add salt and pep- salads and freshly steamed vegeta- unsaturated oilve oil. The fol- per to taste. bles. lowing delicious recipes from 6. Remove onions with a slot- To make a quick vegetarian side dish, roll Vefa’s archives are no exception. ted spoon, allowing some of crumbled feta into partially cooked sauce to drain back into pan. slices of eggplant or . Place EGGPLANT ROUNDS Spoon onions into pepper rings. in a shallow pan, spread with tom- WITH MINT SAUCE 7. Top each eggplant round ato sauce, and bake uncovered in a (MELIDZANES ME with a slice of tomato, then 350° oven for about 25 minutes. DHYOZMOS) sprinkle with a little salt and For a quick dip, mix 1 cup crumbled feta 1 pepper. Pour remaining sauce with ⁄4 cup low-fat sour cream. Stir PREP AND COOK TIME: 2 hours on top of and around eggplant. in finely chopped roasted hot pep- NOTES: This recipe is from one 8. Cover pan with vented alu- per, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and of Vefa’s most recent offerings— minum foil and bake at 400° for freshly ground pepper to taste. Sunny . 35 to 40 minutes until sauce has Mix into meat loaf with finely chopped MAKES: 6 to 8 servings cooked almost down to the oil, mint, oregano, , and onion. and the vegetables are lightly Use as a filling with finely chopped

This page: Holly Rudin-Braschi 4 pounds medium globe browned and tender. Serve hot oregano, dill, and/or mint for butterflied lamb, rolled flank steak, or rolled chicken breasts. ZO: S92 56

the cavity of the chicken. Tie for this recipe comes from 1. In a 2-quart microwave-safe the chicken legs together with Vefa’s book Greek Pastries and baking dish, warm milk uncov- string. Desserts. To keep the crisp ered on full (100%) power for 5 2. Place chicken in the middle after baking, do not cover. To minutes. of a large nonstick roasting make ahead, prepare the rolls 2. Stir in and sugar, pan and arrange the potatoes through step 4, then freeze in and microwave, uncovered, on around it. an airtight container for up to full (100%) power for 10 to 12 3. In a small bowl, whisk olive three months. Defrost in the minutes, stirring every 3 min- oil, lemon juice, salt, black pep- refrigerator overnight, or at utes until very thick. per, and oregano. Pour over the room temperature for 2 3. Stir in butter. Add egg chicken and potatoes, then rub hours, before proceeding yolks, one by one. Add ex- in with your fingertips to coat. with step 5. tracts and almonds; mix until Add chicken broth to outer MAKES: 10 to 12 servings well blended. Set aside. 4. Cut sheets of filo widthwise into three parts and separate into strips. Cover with plastic wrap and a damp cloth. Re- moving one strip at a time, lay each one out flat and brush lightly with melted butter. Fold in half across the width. Place 1 TOP TO BOTTOM: tablespoon of custard filling at MARINATING IN SALT. VEFA FRIES UP one end, fold the sides over the CRISPY BARBOUNIA (RED MULLET) filling, and loosely roll up. 1 FOR A FEAST WITH FRIENDS AT HER Arrange seam side down ⁄2 HOME ON THE HALKIDIKI inch apart on a nonstick or PENINSULA IN NORTHERN GREECE. buttered rimmed baking sheet. Brush tops lightly with re- or at room temperature. maining butter. Repeat process Per serving: 290 cal., 60% (187 cal.) until all the rolls are made. from fat; 4.3 g protein; 20 g fat (3 g 5. Bake in a preheated 400° sat.); 26 g carbo (5.9 g fiber); 501 mg oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or sodium; 0 mg chol. until golden brown. While the rolls are baking, boil the 1 CHICKEN sugar and 1 ⁄2 cups water for 5 WITH LEMON SAUCE minutes, then stir in lemon (KOTOPOULO juice. Pour hot syrup over LEMONATO) rolls as they come out of the oven. Allow to cool to room 1 PREP AND COOK TIME: 1 ⁄2 hours temperature before serving. NOTES: This classic recipe is Per serving: 559 cal., 43% (247 cal.) from Greek Cuisine. from fat; 8.8 g protein; 27 g fat (12 g MAKES: 6 to 8 servings sat.); 71 g carbo (1.6 g fiber); 253 mg

sodium; 119 mg chol. Holly Rudin-Braschi 1 13⁄2- to 4-pound chicken 1 1 small lemon edges of pan. Bake, uncovered, 2 ⁄2 cups milk 1 1 4 pounds russet potatoes, in a 350° oven for about 1 ⁄2 ⁄2 cup coarse semolina Get to Know peeled and quartered hours, or until chicken and (cream of —not 1 Greece Better ⁄2 cup olive oil potatoes are tender and instant) 1 1 ⁄3 cup lemon juice browned. ⁄2 cup sugar FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT ALL 2 teaspoons salt Per serving: 468 cal., 65% (306 cal.) 4 tablespoons butter THINGS HELLENIC, CONSULT THE 1 teaspoon ground from fat; 30 g protein; 34 g fat (7.6 g 4 egg yolks FOLLOWING SITES: 1 black pepper sat.); 11 g carbo (4.8 g fiber); 714 mg ⁄2 teaspoon almond extract Greek National Tourist Organization: 1 ⁄3 cup finely chopped sodium; 101 mg chol. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract www.greektourism.com fresh oregano, or 2 1 cup blanched almonds, Greek Cuisine: www.greekcuisine.com tablespoons dried ALMOND CUSTARD finely ground Greek Ingredients: 1 ⁄3 cup chicken broth PASTRY ROLLS 1 pound filo dough www.greekshops.com 3 (FLOYERES ME KREMA) ⁄4 cup unsalted butter, www.greece.com 1. Wash chicken and pat dry. melted More about Vefa and her recipes: Pierce lemon all over with a PREP AND COOK TIME: 2 hours 2 cups sugar Vefa Alexiadou’s books are available small sharp knife. Put lemon in NOTES: The sweet inspiration 2 tablespoons lemon juice at most major bookstores, or you can order them on the Web by logging on to www.vefa.gr.