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Home Life in Hellas, Greece and the Greeks

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**% *&*%; : " ' VJ* 'J^fJL £lt: ft -* IS EECE AND Tli DXJCKETT PERR rfHffri'ia?iS?i?ftj55&ffiiffi&SSS£ fyxmll Wmwraftg ptatfg BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF iHeiiru W. Sage 1891 £\..fc5.3d.a.g ya.yiQ.M.. Cornell University Library DF 741.F39 Home life in Hellas Greece and the Gree 3 1924 028 255 093 www.archive.org HOME LIFE IN HELLAS MILLS & BOON'S LIST OF GENERAL LITERATURE MY GERMAN YEAR. By I. A. R. Wylie, Author of "The Rajah's People." With 2 Illustrations in Colour and 18 from Photographs. Demy 8vo. 10s. Gd. net. FORTY YEARS OF A SPORTSMAN'S LIFE. By Sir Claude Champion De Crespigny. With a Photogravure Frontispiece and 15 Illustrations. Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 10b. Gd. net. THE COURT OF WILLIAM III. By E. and M. S. Grew. With many Illustrations. Demy Svo. 16s. net. YVETTE GUILBERT: Struggles and Victories. By Yvette Guilbert and Harold Simpson. Profusely Illustrated with Caricatures, Portraits, Facsimiles of Letters, etc. Demy Svo. 10s. 6d. net. WAGNER AT HOME. Fully translated by Effie Dunreith Massib from the French of Judith Gautier. With a Photogravure Frontispiece and 8 Illustrations. Demy Svo. 108. 6d. net. THE PARSON'S PLEASANCE. By P. H. Ditchfield, M.A., F.S.A. With 25 Illustrations. Demy Svo. 10s. 6d. net. RAMBLES WITH AN AMERICAN. By Christian Tearle, Author of "Holborn Hill." With 21 Illustrations. 10a. 6d. net. A CENTURY OF BALLADS (1810-1910): Their Com- posers and Singers. By Harold Simpson. Fully Illustrated. Demy 8vo. Its. 6d. net. HOME LIFE IN HELLAS. By Z. Duckett Ferriman. With 19 Illustrations from Photographs. Demy Svo. 8s. net. SWISS MOUNTAIN CLIMBS. By George D. Abraham, Author of "The Complete Mountaineer," Member of the Climbers' Club, etc. etc. Illustrated with Photographs and Diagrams. Pocket size. Waterproof Cloth. 7s. 6d. net. BRITISH MOUNTAIN CLIMBS. By George D. Abraham. Uniform with " Swiss Mountain Climbs." 7B.Gd.net. HOME LIFE IN IRELAND. By Robert Lynd. Illus- trated from Photographs. Third and Popular Edition, with a New Preface. Crown Svo. 6b. THE ROMANCE OF THE OXFORD COLLEGES. By Francis Gribble. With a Photogravure Frontispiece and 16 Illustra- tions. Crown Svo. 6s. LETTERS OF A MODERN GOLFER TO HIS GRANDFATHER. By Henry Leach. With a Photogravure Frontispiece. Crown 8vo. 6s. THE GERMAN SPY SYSTEM IN FRANCE. Trans- lated from the French of Paul Lanoir. Crown 8vo. 6s. net. SHIPS AND SEALING WAX. By Hansard Watt. With Illustrations 40 by L. R. Brightwell. Crown 4to. 3b. 6d net A volume of light verse. ENTRANCE To HARBOUR AND MOUNT NERITON, ITHACA. HOME LIFE IN HELLAS GREECE AND THE GREEKS BY Z. DUCKETT FERR1MAN ILLUSTRATED MILLS & BOON, LIMITED 49 RUPERT STREET LONDON W. Published iqio PREFACE THE Author takes this opportunity to acknow- ledge the kind courtesy of the Director of the British School at Athens, who allowed him to use the school library during his stay. For much information concerning Folk-lore he is in- debted to Sir Rennell Rodd's Customs and Lore of Modern Greece, to Dr. Bernhard Schmidt's Das Volksleben der Neugriechen, and indirectly to the sidelights thrown on the subject by the collec- tions of Greek Folk-songs of Fauriel, Passow, and G. F. Abbott. The account of Naxos and Santorin was written before he had seen Mr. W. Miller's Latins of the Levant, otherwise he would have been able to make a better use of his oppor- tunities. That work, the outcome of laborious research in a rather obscure but fascinating field, has revealed much that he longed to know on a subject that has had a special attraction for him since his first visit to the Cyclades many years ago. Z. D. F. MlNETY, MALMESBURY, July 2"]th, 1910. CONTENTS I. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Entrance to Harbour and Mount Neriton, IthACA ....... Frontispiece From a Photo by the Author Facing page Sparta 19 From a Photograph, Photochrom Co. The Langada of Mangoula 23 From Stereograph, Underwood and Underwood The Kalavryta Railway . 3 2 From Stereograph, Underwood and Underwood Megaspeleion 34 From a Photograph, Photochrom Co. A Young Mainote 44 Corfu ..... 57 From a Photograph, Photochrom Co Peasant's Dwelling, Ithaca 68 From a Photo by the Author The Town of Naxia, from the Sea 88 From a Photo by the Author Pericles .... 144 From a Photo by the Author An Aged Peloponnesian 146 Athenian Boy in Fustanella 174 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Facingpage Thebes : Theban with Chaplet . .178 From Stereograph, Underwood and Underwood An Epirote ........ 200 Monastery of Hagia Triada, Meteora . .221 From Stereograph, Underwood and Underwood The Women's Dance at Megara .... 237 From Stereograph, Underwood and Underwood Schoolboys at Drill in the Stadium, Athens . 253 From Stereograph, Underwood and Underwood The Monument of Lysicrates .... 307 From a Photograph, Photochrom Co. St. Eleutherios 316 From a Photograph, Photochrom Co. — HOME LIFE IN HELLAS CHAPTER I THE GREEK MAINLAND WERE an aeroplanist to take an eagle flight over Greece, the features that would strike him most would be the great preponderance of mountain compared with level ground, and the enormous coast-line. The sea reaches into the heart of the land from east and west and south, and the great fiord, the Gulf of Corinth, nearly cuts it in two, making the Peloponnesus all but an island, so that a country with an area rather smaller than that of Scotland has a coast-line far longer than that of England. 1 The northern half of Greece is bisected by Pindus, an irregular chain throwing off ranges right and left, so that from any lofty point of view the prospect is a con- fused jumble of mountains and deep blue inlets a mingling of Switzerland and Norway. The plains are few—alluvial strips on portions of the 1 Greece has seven times as much coast as England in propor- tion to its area, and nearly twelve times as much as France. B 2 HOME LIFE IN HELLAS coast, alluvial patches round the heads of gulfs, at the mouths of rivers. The broad basin of Thessaly and the Boeotian level are the most con- siderable in Northern Greece ; and in the Pelo- ponnesus, which is for the most part a mountain mass with the elevated hollow of Arcadia in its centre, the undulating plain of Elis opening on the west, the plain of Argos, the valley of Sparta, and the rich lowlands of Messenia on the south, with the narrow strip on the Achaian shore. All these fertile regions are cut off from the rest of the land by mountain barriers, but all, except Arcadia, are easy of access from the sea. Hence it is that in a country where communication by land is difficult and slow, there is considerable coasting traffic and a large maritime population. More than half the land is unproductive moun- tain, and only 21 per cent under cultivation, so pastoral pursuits largely claim the attention of the rural folk. The man who builds boats and the man who sails them, and the man who rears and tends flocks and herds are important factors in Greece. Nevertheless the husbandmen far out- number the shepherds owing to the more exacting nature of the work—40 per cent of the nation is agricultural, and 10 per cent pastoral. Only 8 per cent of the land is pasture in the strict sense of the word, though this does not include the domain of the nomad Vlachs who wander with their flocks on the mountains. More than half of the agricultural population is of Albanian THE GREEK MAINLAND 3 1 origin. This people forms the backbone of rural Greece, for your true Greek will not till the land if he can earn a living in any other way. He is instinctively a townsman and a trader. The Albanian is a farmer, and considering that 70 per cent of the exports of Greece consists of land produce, it must be allowed that he is a very valuable asset to the kingdom. By far the largest grain-growing district in Greece is the Thessalian plain, which was a lake until the defile of Tempe was cloven between Ossa and Olympus by a seismic cataclysm which let the water out. The ancient myth attributed the cleft to the trident of Neptune, but it was Vulcan who accomplished the task. Geologists say that it occurred at no distant period, if reckoned in terms of geologic time ; but in any case the plain is a lake bottom of exuberant 1 The Albanian population of Greece is completely Hellenised. It is of Toskh origin. The Toskhs are the Southern Albanians, whose northern limit may be assigned to the neighbourhood of the River Skumbi. They differ materially from the Ghegs or Northern Albanians. The latter are divided into tribes, the Toskhs are not. When the Gheg is a Christian, he is a Roman Catholic, whilst the Toskh is Orthodox. Greek influence has moulded the Toskhs for centuries, and a Toskh, even in Turkish territory, resembles a Greek more than he does his Gheg com- patriot, whose chief occupation is fighting. When not thus engaged his condition is that of armed idleness. The difference extends even to the dress ; the Albanian costume adopted by the Greeks, whose distinguishing feature is the fustanella, the many- pleated white kilt, is Toskh. The fustanella is unknown among the Ghegs. It is difficult to draw a line of demarcation between Greeks and Toskhs in North-Western Greece. But the division between Toskhs and Ghegs farther north is as sharp as between two different nations. 4 HOME LIFE IN HELLAS fertility, yielding heavy crops of wheat, barley, and maize, a treeless dull expanse whose mono- tony is accentuated by the distant prospect of the glittering peaks of Olympus.
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