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231 CULTURE AND WETLANDS IN THE MEDITERRANEAN Using cultural values for wetland restoration 2 CULTURE AND WETLANDS IN THE MEDITERRANEAN Using cultural values for wetland restoration Lake Karla walking guide Mediterranean Institute for Nature and Anthropos Med-INA, Athens 2014 3 Edited by Stefanos Dodouras, Irini Lyratzaki and Thymio Papayannis Contributors: Charalampos Alexandrou, Chairman of Kerasia Cultural Association Maria Chamoglou, Ichthyologist, Managing Authority of the Eco-Development Area of Karla-Mavrovouni-Kefalovryso-Velestino Antonia Chasioti, Chairwoman of the Local Council of Kerasia Stefanos Dodouras, Sustainability Consultant PhD, Med-INA Andromachi Economou, Senior Researcher, Hellenic Folklore Research Centre, Academy of Athens Vana Georgala, Architect-Planner, Municipality of Rigas Feraios Ifigeneia Kagkalou, Dr of Biology, Polytechnic School, Department of Civil Engineering, Democritus University of Thrace Vasilis Kanakoudis, Assistant Professor, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Thessaly Thanos Kastritis, Conservation Manager, Hellenic Ornithological Society Irini Lyratzaki, Anthropologist, Med-INA Maria Magaliou-Pallikari, Forester, Municipality of Rigas Feraios Sofia Margoni, Geomorphologist PhD, School of Engineering, University of Thessaly Antikleia Moudrea-Agrafioti, Archaeologist, Department of History, Archaeology and Social Anthropology, University of Thessaly Triantafyllos Papaioannou, Chairman of the Local Council of Kanalia Aikaterini Polymerou-Kamilaki, Director of the Hellenic Folklore Research Centre of the Academy of Athens Aris Psilovikos, Assistant Professor, Department of Ichthyology and Aquatic Environment, University of Thessaly Pantelis Sidiropoulos, Civil Engineer, Managing Authority of the Eco-Development Area of Karla-Mavrovouni-Kefalovryso-Velestino Markos Vaxevanopoulos, PhD candidate-Geologist, Volos Natural History Museum Published by: Mediterranean Institute for Nature and Anthropos (Med-INA), Athens, Greece Funded by: MAVA Foundation, Gland, Switzerland Copyright: © Med-INA, except where indicated by the authors’ names Citation: Dodouras, S., Lyratzaki, I. and Papayannis, T. (ed.) (2014), Lake Karla Walking Guide, Med-INA, Athens English language editing: Julian Hoffman Greek language editing: Theotokis Theodoulou Translation services: Aggelos Georgakis Art direction Pavlina Alexandropoulou Coordinators: Stefanos Dodouras and Irini Lyratzaki Printed by: Bibliosynergatiki AEPEE ISBN: 978-960-89972-5-7 Available from: Med-INA 23 Voucourestiou Street, 10671 Athens, Greece T: +30 210 3600711-4, F: +30 210 3629338 E: [email protected] W: www.med-ina.org 4 Lake Karla used to be one of the most diverse Mediterranean wetlands; a productive ecosystem of significant ecological, economic and socio-cultural value. The lake, as it originally was, was purpose- fully drained in the 1960s, with terrible consequences. Nowadays, Lake Karla is once more becoming an important part of the region’s everyday life, while the construction of a shallow artificial wetland area on its northern shores will further assist in protecting and pro- moting the local natural and cultural heritage. This walking guide tells the story of Lake Karla, both as it was and as it is today. Figure 0.1: Panoramic view of Lake Karla from the hill of Agios Athanasios 5 Map 1: Lake Karla, area map Source: D+D Consulting Engineers Map 2: Map of Greece, geographical location of Lake Karla 66 Map 3: Lake Karla before and after its drainage Source: Directorate of Secondary Education of Larissa 7 Acknowledgements Apart from the efforts of the Med-INA Scientific Secretariat, the success of any project depends largely on the encouragement and assistance of many others. We would like to take this opportunity to express our gratitude to the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of this guide. We are grateful to the Managing Authority of the Eco-Development Area of Karla-Mavrovouni-Kefalovryso-Velestino for supplying to us digital data sets on the current and future developments around Lake Karla. The expert advice from the Municipality of Rigas Feraios, the Hellenic Ornitho- logical Society, the Hellenic Folklore Research Centre of the Academy of Ath- ens and academics at the University of Thessaly proved to be invaluable. We are also grateful to the Stournaras, Tloupas and Xenos families for gener- ously providing us with photos, past and present, of the greater Lake Karla area. Representatives of the local authorities as well as Thymios Dodouras and Stathis Stamatiou shared their knowledge, ideas and time over the course of numerous trips, all of which culminated in the completion of this walking guide. 8 Contents Forewords 12 1 Introduction 20 2 Region of Thessaly 32 3 Lake Karla 48 3.1 The archaeology of mythology 50 3.2 Historical narratives 60 3.3 Human habitation 78 3.4 Social beliefs and practices 90 3.5 Ecosystems 110 3.6 Partial restoration of the wetland 120 4 Walking trails 132 4.1 Ano Kerasia-Kerasia (MAP 1 – Trail 1) 136 4.2 Ano Kerasia-Flamouri Monastery (MAP 1 – Trail 2) 140 4.3 Kerasia-Sourvia Monastery (MAP 1 – Trail 3) 144 4.4 Keramidi-Palaioskala (MAP 1 – Trail 4) 150 4.5 Ano Kanalia-Pyrgos (MAP 1 – Trail 5) 156 4.6 Glafyres-Saint Nikolaos of Kanalia (MAP 2 – Trail 6) 162 4.7 Kanalia-Drakopigado (MAP 2 – Trail 7) 168 4.8 Chatzimisiotiki Magoula-Agios Athanasios hill (MAP 2 – Trail 8) 172 4.9 Stefanovikeio-Petra (Skala) (MAP 2 – Trail 9) 176 4.10 Kato Kalamaki-Lake Karla’s artificial wetland (MAP 2 – Trail 10) 180 5 Epilogue 184 6 Useful information 192 7 Appendices 202 8 References 216 Photo credits 225 Figure 0.2: Panoramic view of Lake Karla from the hill above Kanalia 9 Figure 0.3: A typical day on Lake Karla in 1953 Source: Takis Tloupas, Photographic Archives of Vania Tloupa 10 11 Figure 0.4: Including both dense and sparse stands of vegetation, the Lake Karla area provides food and cover for many species of birds This walking guide is especially notable because, above all, it highlights Greece’s natural and cultural heritage. Specifically, it focuses on the protected area of Lake Karla, a wetland which was recently restored, bringing life to the greater area again. A wide variety of flora and fauna –including numerous species of migratory birds– cultural expressions, social perceptions and natural places are all intertwined there, creating the environmental, social, economic and ethnographic web of Lake Karla, around which several generations have lived and prospered. For the Municipality of Rigas Feraios, Lake Karla is the benchmark for all human actions, education and research, ecology, culture, and traditional human activi- ties such as agriculture and fishing. It is the natural and cultural resource that gives meaning to the present and future of our region. Needless to say, there are still many outstanding tasks that need to be addressed in order to utilise and expand the development prospects that this special wetland has to offer. But these are matters for local and state authorities, together with other relevant bodies. 12 …the natural and cultural resource that gives meaning to the present and future of our region… E. Laitsou For many years, scientists, researchers, scholars and other specialists have been trying to trace Lake Karla’s rich history and reveal its hidden aspects. But what has been missing until now is a guide, a compass for those people who want to experience the lake, taste its wild beauty and discover some of its secrets. This publication serves that purpose in the most balanced, objective and scientifi- cally comprehensive manner. As soon as you flip through the first few pages and see the beautiful images of Lake Karla, you will set off on an imaginary journey through the history of the area, quickly becoming acquainted with the wetland and surroun - ding region. The Lake Karla Walking Guide respectfully contributes to the promotion of Lake Karla, reinforcing the need to protect our natural and cultural resources, while attracting new visitors and ventures. Many congratulations to those who have worked so hard on this effort. Eleni Laitsou Mayor of the Municipality of Rigas Feraios Velestino, May 2013 13 Figure 0.5: Lake Karla in the early 2000s In an era dominated by new technology and novel opportunities, it is worth re- flecting upon the idea that the future is increasingly a matter of human choice. Emphasis should be placed on developing practical responses to the large environmental challenges facing us, not only in Greece, but across all of Europe. In this context, the topic of European wetlands reaching a level of ‘good ecological status’ should be urgently revisited, while the need for integrated approaches to sustainable wetland management is an issue of the utmost importance. The current financial and environmental crises are the two sides of the same coin, given that the economy and the environment are simply partners rather than competitors. The uncertainty posed by global environmental pressures such as climate change, depletion of non-renewable energy sources and con- sumption patterns calls for carefully planned actions. Sustainable development seeks to make the competing goals of economic growth and environmental pro- tection compatible. Is this possible? Given that special emphasis should be placed on the development of integrated approaches with regard to the numerous and interrelated environmental, economic, social and cultural aspects of sustainability, ecosystem management is understood as a dynamic

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