Athens, Greece Overview

Home , Alexandras Avenue, Anafiotika, Athinas Street, Athiri, Benaki Museum, Cinema of Greece

Courtesy of: Melody Moser Journeys Near and Far, LLC

Overview Introduction

Sights in ancient Greece, and especially Athens, take on a larger importance than in most other places in the world. They are histories of democracy, Western civilization and philosophy firsthand. You can't help but walk around the Parthenon and the rest of the Acropolis and dream about the great ones who have come before you and whose footsteps you're in.

Athens is a must-see on any European tour. The ancient and modern merge in this city in ways that are fascinating and sometimes overwhelming. Pollution wreathes the golden stones of the Acropolis and obscures views of the Saronic Gulf. Cars bleat and belch among ranks of concrete high-rises. But then you turn down a cobbled lane and discover vine-swathed tavernas, tortoises trundling through ancient ruins, and bazaars teeming with dusty treasures. Or The Parthenon is one of the most visited sights in Athens. perhaps you will encounter a sleek cafe, art gallery or an outdoor cinema that serves ouzo under the stars. Greece's capital has been reinventing itself; the results could not be more charming.

The metro routes are extensive, and the stations dazzle with marble and antiquities. Congested downtown streets have been turned into pedestrian walkways, greatly reducing Athens' notorious smog and noise. Hotels, museums and archaeological sites have been revamped. Gentrified districts—such as Gazi—host cafes, clubs and chic restaurants, which even boast smokefree sections. Athens' 19thcentury Acropolis Museum has been replaced by a fine new Acropolis Museum that has brought 21st-century, high-tech architecture to the city in the form of a stunning exhibition space.

The years since 2010 brought Greece's most severe economic crisis of modern times, together with harsh austerity measures, social unrest and even talk of defaulting and leaving the Eurozone, the 17-nation group of EU countries that use the euro as their common currency. Yet there is a built-in certainty that Greece will ride this storm as it has many others. Greeks are proud of their Olympic history, their renovated capital city and—most of all—their proven ability to surmount obstacles with flying colors. Despite the media images of frequent demonstrations and protest marches, some of which have become violent and lead to scuffles with the police, Athens should remain firmly on the travel map, prized for both its ancient charms and its modern makeover.

Highlights

Sights—The Acropolis; the ancient Agora (marketplace); the Temple of Olympian Zeus; the changing of the evzone guards outside Parliament in Syntagma Square; Lykavittos Hill; a day trip to Cape Sounion for the sunset; if you have time, a one-day cruise around the Saronic Islands.

Museums—The Acropolis Museum; the Museum of the Ancient Agora of Athens; the Benaki Museum; the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art; the National Archaeological Museum.

Memorable Meals—The spectacular view of the Acropolis and the creative cuisine at Orizontes Lykavittou; the mindboggling variety of traditional Greek dishes served at Eleas Gi; modern Greek taverna fare in trendy Gazi; rooftop dining in Thissio; award-winning seafood specialties at Varoulko.

Late Night—Rebetiko music at Stoa Athanaton; outdoor cinemas during summer; Greek and international jazz and blues at Half Note Jazz Club; live-rock acts at the Gagarin 205 Live Music Space; bars and clubs in the Gazi neighborhood; open-air summer dance clubs by the sea; an Athens and Epidaurus Festival performance in the ancient Odeon of Herod Atticus.

Walks—Through the Plaka (Old Athens) and the flea market in the Monastiraki area; along the trafficfree "archaeological promenade" Apostolou Pavlou in Thissio.

Especially for Kids—The virtualreality presentations at the Hellenic Cosmos (adults will love it, too); the bird collection at the Attica Zoological Park; the Hellenic Children's Museum in the Plaka.

Geography

Athens sits in a basin in southeastern Greece, closed in by the mountains of Pendeli, Parnitha, Imitos and Egaleo and opening toward the Saronic Gulf to the west.

The Acropolis remains the city's massive, gracious centerpiece. The Plaka area, or Old Athens, lies directly below, and its labyrinth of walkways acts almost as a shield, protecting the sacred hill from the modern city. At the outskirts of the Plaka, to the northeast, is Syntagma Square. The city's business center—with its offices, stores and hotels—begins there as one corner of the commercial triangle (the downtown pedestrian zone). The other two corners of the triangle are roughly Omonia Square (a somewhat seedy neighborhood) and Monastiraki Square (site of the famous flea market). Ermou Street, the "base" of the triangle, is one of the city's main shopping concourses. Beyond Syntagma lies Kolonaki, an up-market residential district and home to chic boutiques and several foreign embassies, behind which rises Athens' highest peak, Lykavittos Hill.

Most of the major archaeological sites and museums are within a 2.5-mi/4-km radius of Syntagma Square. The neighborhoods of Psiri, Thissio and Gazi to the north and west of the Acropolis have been transformed into trendy entertainment areas with traditional tavernas, elegant gourmet restaurants, fashionable nightspots and art galleries. Farther north along Kifissias Avenue are the upper-class residential suburbs and upscale commercial areas such as Psychico, Filothei, Maroussi, Kifissia and Ekali—favorite locations for foreign embassies, consulates and companies, and for private schools and colleges.

The city extends southwest to the coast, encompassing the sprawling port of Piraeus, and to its south, the upper-class coastal suburbs and beaches of Faliro, Kalamaki, Glyfada, Voula and Vouliagmeni. Just off this coast, 30 minutes to two hours away by ferry, catamaran or hovercraft, are the nearby islands of the Saronic Gulf: Aegina, Poros, Hydra and Spetses.

The Athens Olympic Sports Complex, at the Irini metro stop, was the main site for the 2004 Olympic Games. Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava redesigned the stadium, which continues to host cultural and sporting events.

History

Once a fortified village entirely contained atop the Acropolis, Athens grew into one of the most powerful city-states in the ancient world. As a successful trading city with its own port, it became Greece's leading metropolis. The fifth century BC ushered in Athens' Golden Age, the classical period that has had such a profound effect on the development of Western thought. The city's government evolved into the world's first democracy. Its leaders rebuilt the city's monuments in marble—the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Odeon. Socrates and then Plato shaped the world of philosophy. Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes wrote their seminal dramatic works and saw them performed.

Athens' Golden Age was influential but short-lived. The Peloponnesian War (431-404 BC) against rival Sparta was disastrous. Soon, the powerful Greek city-states fell apart and into the hands of Philip of Macedon, then to his son Alexander the Great. The three centuries following Alexander the Great's death are known as the Hellenistic period, when the arts, literature and science flourished. The Roman Empire took control in 146 BC, but Athens was highly respected and was treated well. Integration into the Byzantine Empire was more radical. Venetians ruled in the 13th century, and the Turks took over in 1453, holding power in Greece until the 19th century.

Greece became an independent country in 1829, and Athens was named the capital in 1833. It was the seat of monarchies and democracies and the scene of uprisings and civil war in the 20th century, as the country struggled to join the ranks of developing nations. Since the country's bid for economic and political stability, the city has become a popular destination, both for its historic sites and its proximity to the Greek islands.

Port Information

Location

Cruise ships moor in the terminal at the port of Piraeus, approximately 6 mi/10 km southwest of Athens' city center. With 11 berths (and plans to eventually increase this to 17), the terminal can accommodate even the largest vessels. http://www.olp.gr.

Internal shuttle buses deliver passengers from the individual berths to the international-passengers terminal, where facilities include duty-free shops, exchange offices and a bank, and parking for as many as 60 buses, plus a heliport. In 2013, the passenger terminal Themistocles opened with two separate halls for arrivals and departures. Metro Line 1 connects Monastiraki and Omonia Square in central Athens with the harbor, and taxis are cheap and readily available.

Shore Excursions The quintessential excursion into Athens will usually take in the Acropolis and other major sights as well as a chance to stroll and shop in the Plaka district. Other excursions could include a half-day trip to Sounio, a trip to Corinth, a full-day tour of Delphi and more.

Potpourri

The first modern Olympic Games, held in Athens in 1896, saw 14 nations competing. All 245 athletes were male.

Greece is one of only two countries to have competed in every modern Olympic Games. The other is Australia.

The ubiquitous tomato was only introduced to Greece, in Athens, in 1818.

Greeks are the biggest cheeseeaters in Europe—and most of the cheese they eat is feta.

Hotel Overview

Hundreds of hotels are concentrated in the business and tourist district around Syntagma Square. The better hotels are usually booked well in advance for Easter and Christmas. Early reservations may not be necessary at other times, but be prepared to pay full price for a room if you're booking on short notice (same day to three weeks). Booking your room early (three months in advance) will get you a much better rate. We suggest that you request a room away from the street because of the noise from the motorcycles that buzz through Athens at all hours. Some hotels offer special rates to business travelers.

Budget and midrange hotels usually include breakfast and Internet access in the room rate. Many fivestar hotels—especially the ones belonging to international chains—tend to charge separately for these amenities.

Budget travelers will want to find a room in a small hotel in the Plaka area. The only drawback to those properties is that the dancing at the bar below your window may not stop until dawn (it won't do much good to ask them to turn it down; you might as well go downstairs and join the party). In the cheapest hotels, be prepared to pay extra for air-conditioning. All accommodations have fairly high taxes. However, hotels are required to include them in the initially quoted price and not add them on at checkout; refuse to pay these extras if asked to do so.

Several of the big modern hotels aimed at business travelers are located on Syngrou Avenue, but note that this is a busy thoroughfare, and while it may be functional, it is certainly not pretty. Likewise, many midrange hotels can be found close to Omonia Square, but the area is a little rundown and no longer entirely safe at night.

See & Do Sightseeing

A trip to Athens must start with a visit to the Acropolis. The site, one of the earliest settlements in Greece and the center of Greek genius during the Golden Age, never fails to impress. Exploring it is awe-inspiring for first-time and repeat visitors alike. Among the structures to admire on the Acropolis are the Parthenon, the small Ionian temple of Athena Nike and the Erechtheion Temple. Nearby, the ultramodern Acropolis Museum displays portable objects removed from the site since 1834. (The Elgin Marbles, the most famous artifacts from the Parthenon, remain in London despite Greek pleas to return them.)

An archaeological park surrounds the Acropolis, so take time to appreciate the ruins you'll pass on your climb, including the amphitheaters

Page 3 of 38 Copyright ©2015 Northstar Travel Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. Courtesy of: Melody Moser Journeys Near and Far, LLC on the south slope. And be sure to pause to take in the various views of the city.

From the Acropolis, you need walk only a couple of miles/kilometers in any direction to see most of the major archaeological sites and museums in Athens. Start by taking a trip to the top of the Hill of Philopappou for a great view of the city. From there, head north to the Agora, which was the center of ancient Athens' city life. Nearby you will find the Roman Forum and the graceful Tower of the Winds. Continue east through the frenetic-yet-delightful Plaka neighborhood to Hadrian's Arch and the Temple of Zeus. Watch the skirted soldiers (called evzones) perform a changing-of-the-guard ceremony in front of the Parliament in Syntagma Square. Afterward, relax at the Zappeion, a beautiful garden with shaded benches.

Make time to see some of the city's many wonderful museums. The best are the Acropolis Museum and the National Archaeological Museum, filled with an unsurpassed collection of Greek art and artifacts. The Benaki Museum and the Greek Folk Art Museum are two of our favorites. Children, students and senior citizens are eligible for discounts on admission (usually 50%) at most museums and archaeological sites.

If you aren't planning to visit any of the Greek isles on your trip, spend a day at one of the numerous beach clubs in the city's southern suburbs. These clubs have sandy beaches, watersports facilities and a range of other amenities.

Before you set out to see all you can, pick up a free map from the Greek National Tourist Organization at its smart new information center opposite the Acropolis Museum at Dionysiou Areopagitou Street.

Take advantage of the bargain-priced 12-euro multipass that covers entry to the Acropolis, the Agora of Athens, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Roman Forum, Theater of Dionysus, Hadrian's Library and the Kerameikos cemetery.

Historic Sites

Acropolis This hill was a sacred site for ancient Athenians. To reach the plateau, you enter through an immense portal, and at the top are the ruins of three temples built in the fifth century BC. From Athens, Greece the top of the Acropolis, you also get a sweeping view of Athens and the Saronic Gulf. Two Phone: 210-321-4172 (archaeological paths lead up to the Acropolis: One is off Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, and the other is off site) Theorias Street in Plaka. Wear sturdy shoes and take plenty of water for the ascent, which is http://odysseus.culture.gr steep, slippery and scorching hot midday. The hill is accessible to disabled people with the use of an elevator; ask the guard at the exit of the Acropolis site to escort you to the elevator. (This is a construction-site-style lift that doesn't operate during heavy rain or when strong winds are blowing.)

Propylaea. This monumental gateway is your reward for winding your way to the top of the Acropolis. As you enter the small, rectangular hall, stop for a moment to marvel at the six Doric columns. Built of pure marble, this was the first building to combine Ionic and Doric styles.

Temple of Athena Nike. Also called the Temple of the Wingless Victory. On the southwest side of the Propylaea, this small temple once contained a sanctuary and an altar for animal sacrifices.

Parthenon. The largest building on the Acropolis is one of the world's most awe-inspiring man-made sites. The Parthenon (built by Pericles to honor the goddess of wisdom, Athena, patron of the city) has been the model for thousands of buildings throughout the world. Except for its roof, which was made of wood, the Parthenon was constructed of marble. The temple stood intact for millennia, until the ruling Ottomans used it to store gunpowder, which was ignited by a Venetian bomb in 1687. Most of the artifacts from the temple are housed in the Acropolis Museum nearby.

Erechtheion. Ahead and to the left as you face the Parthenon. Built on the site of the legendary contest between Athena and Poseidon, the temple was a shrine to Athena and the twin deity Poseidon-Erechtheus. Its most distinctive feature was the ingenious design of the six support columns on the south side—carved in the shape of maidens, or caryatids. The originals have been replaced by models, but three genuine caryatids are on display in the Acropolis Museum a few yards/meters away.

Open daily 8 am-7 pm May-October, 8 am-5 pm November-April. The Acropolis entrance fee of 12 euros for adults includes the Acropolis archaeological site (plus the Theater of Dionysus, Agora site and museum, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Roman Forum, and the Kerameikos site and museum). .

Agora Just below the Acropolis, the Agora (or market) was the commercial and public center of ancient Athens. This is where Socrates spent his days in rational debate and where Western There are two entrances: at 24 Adrianou philosophy and politics were born. The site's museum, housed inside the splendidly restored St. in Monastiraki and at the west end of Attalos Arcade, features many of the artifacts found in the area. The Theseion, within the Agora, Polygnotou Street in Plaka is the best-preserved ancient temple in Greece. Built in the fifth century BC, it honors Athena Athens, Greece and Hephaestus. The American School of Classical Studies excavates the site and offers Phone: 210-321-0185 ample information online (http://www.ascsa.edu.gr). http://odysseus.culture.gr Daily 8 am-3 pm. Admission to the Agora and museum costs 4 euros.

Areopagus This low hill, named for the war god Ares, is near the Acropolis. It was the site of the supreme court of ancient Greece, where Orestes, persecuted by the Furies, was tried (and acquitted) after murdering his mother Clytemnestra and where St. Paul addressed the Athenians in AD 51. It's not much to look at now: As you come down from the Acropolis, turn right at the ticket booth. After approximately 150 ft/45 m, you will reach the slippery steps carved into the rock that will take you to the top of the hill.

Byzantine Churches Several Byzantine churches, built between the 11th and 12th centuries AD, are scattered around the city. We think the following are worth seeing from the inside as well as the outside:

Panagia Gorgoepikoos. The humble Byzantine church standing beside the large Metropolis Cathedral has a much longer history than its majestic neighbor. It was built in the 12th century on the ruins of an ancient temple. The temple and other ancient buildings served as a source of building material when the church was constructed. This explains why the walls incorporate many marble murals, such as the one from the fourth century BC showing the signs of the zodiac. Mitropoleos Square (at the junction of Mitropoleos and Agias Filotheis streets), Plaka.

Kapnikarea. Located halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma Square.

Agii Apostoli. In the Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos.

Agii Theodori. On the Dragatsaniou Street side of Klathmonos Square on Stadiou Street.

Churches are open to the public when services are being held and a few hours afterward, on Sunday and holidays. Also open for daily prayers 7 am-1 pm and 4-6:30 pm (depending on the whim of the parish priest).

Hadrian's Arch Standing beside the Temple of Olympian Zeus, this tall marble structure used to be the city gate connecting the original town of Athens (present-day Plaka) with the Roman quarters. It was built Olgas Avenue (at Amalias Avenue) in AD 131 to honor the Roman emperor Hadrian. Athens, Greece

Free.

Kerameikos The city's ancient cemetery dates to the fifth century BC. Throughout this site are many beautiful tombstones with depictions of the dead along with mythological scenes. The ancient city walls, 148 Ermou St. the Dipylon Gate and the Sacred Gate can be found near the site. The cemetery is named after Athens, Greece the ceramists who for many centuries operated their workshops at this location. The numerous Phone: 210-346-3552 findings of their craft are on display in the small museum. http://odysseus.culture.gr The archaeological site is open daily 8 am-5 pm May-October, 8 am-3 pm November-April.The museum is closed Monday during winter. Admission 2 euros.

Lykavittos Hill Lykavittos is the tallest hill in the Athens basin, with an altitude of 968 ft/295 m, and offers sweeping views of the city. It's located in the Kolonaki area of central Athens. In one hour, you The hill is in the center of the city can "see" the central landmarks of the city (including the Acropolis and the Olympic Stadium) as Athens, Greece well as the coast and surrounding mountains. Coin-operated binoculars are available.

The tiny and quaint orthodox chapel of St. George crowns the hill, which is the highest point in the city. Energetic visitors can walk to the top on a well-trod footpath, and the less adventurous can take a short taxi ride. Or take the teleferik (funicular railway), which is a two-minute train ride through a hillside tunnel leading to the top of Lykavittos. The funicular runs every 30 minutes 9 am-2:30 am (though hours can vary wildly from the set times) and departs at the corner of Aristippou and Ploutarchou streets in Kolonaki (tickets 7 euros round-trip).

In addition to the chapel, the Orizontes Lykavittou complex resides on the hill and consists of a gourmet restaurant, bar and outdoor cafe. The Lykavittos Theatre, overlooking the city, is used for open-air concerts and other performances during the summer. Information on the funicular and the Orizontes complex is available by calling 210-722-7065.

Lysikrates Monument Noted for its six Corinthian columns and marble dome, this monument was built to house the prize awarded to the winners of a drama competition in 334 BC. Later the monument was Epimenidi Street (at Vyronos Street; just incorporated into the library of a Capuchin monastery, where it was known as the Lantern of east of the Acropolis) Demosthenes. Lord Byron once stayed at the monastery and is said to have written part of Athens, Greece Childe Harold while sitting between the monument's columns.

Odeon of Herod Atticus This amphitheater, which is on the south slope of the Acropolis and can be viewed from above, was built next to the Theater of Dionysus by the Roman ruler Herod Atticus in AD 161. Regular Athens, Greece tours aren't permitted, but the site hosts performances during the summer Athens and Phone: 210-327-2000 Epidaurus Festival (http://www.greekfestival.gr). The seats in the amphitheater are marble, and http://www.greekfestival.gr the stage is built from archaic stone formations. As you take your seat, the lighted Acropolis stands behind you. Tickets are sold 21 days prior to each event and can be purchased online or from the main festival box office at 39 Panepistimiou in the city center, or at the Public and Papasotiriou book stores.

Box office open Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-3 pm. .

Panathinaiko Stadium This all-marble stadium was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. It was constructed on the site of the stone original, which was built in 330 BC. Vassilissis Konstantinou and Agras (across from the National Garden) Daily 8 am-5 pm November-February, 8 am-7 pm March-October. 3 euros. Athens, Greece http://www.panathenaicstadium.gr

Philopappou Hill Also known as the Hill of the Muses, this pinnacle offers wonderful views over Athens and the Saronic Gulf on a clear day. It's most beautiful in spring when daffodils and poppies are in full Dionysiou Aeropagitou (directly across bloom. A monument to the philanthropic Roman Philopappus is on the summit. from the Acropolis) Athens, Greece

Pnyx One of the city's major heritage sites and the so-called birthplace of democracy. It's a semicircular terrace where ancient Athenians first met in democratic assembly, in 594 BC; it On the west side of Philopappou Hill could accommodate 10,000 people. Athens, Greece

Presidential Palace When Greece was ruled by a monarchy, this was the Royal Palace. Now it's used by the president of the Greek Republic to host dignitaries. No tours. Irodou Attikou Street Athens, Greece

Roman Forum The Roman Forum excavations can be seen best from Polignotou Street. On the northeast corner is the Tower of the Winds, built in the first century BC, which served as a sundial, water Just east of the Ancient Agora clock and weather vane. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-321-6690 Daily 8 am-3 pm. 2 euros. http://odysseus.culture.gr

Syntagma Square The center of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional garb, guard the monument to the unknown soldier, which stands in the forecourt of the Greek Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour on the hour. It sounds sedate, until you witness the choreographed high kicks, all executed by soldiers in short, pleated skirts and clogs with pom-poms. In the metro station just beneath Syntagma Square is an exhibition of archaeological finds that were unearthed during the construction of two of the city's metro lines. Note: Being in front of the parliament, the square is also the focal point for political protest marches, and is best avoided when these are in progress, as they sometimes culminate in violence and the use of tear gas to disperse the crowds.

Temple of Olympian Zeus The ruins of this temple lie just behind Hadrian's Arch to the east of the Acropolis. It was once one of the largest temples in ancient Greece. The construction of this huge marble building Vasilissis Olgas Avenue (entrance on began in 515 BC and continued for almost seven centuries. It was eventually completed under Olgas) the Roman emperor Hadrian in AD 132. Its perimeter included a total of 104 Corinthian Athens, Greece columns, with additional columns inside the building that housed a gargantuan gold-and-ivory Phone: 210-922-6330 statue of Zeus. http://odysseus.culture.gr After the temple's destruction by invaders in the fourth century AD, the marble was removed from the ruins and used as construction material in newer buildings. Now, only some of the temple's columns remain. Their immense height is a testimony to the dimensions of this sanctuary.

Daily 8 am-7:30 pm (closes earlier in winter). 2 euros.

Theater of Dionysus The oldest Greek theater, built in the fifth century BC, is on the south slope of the Acropolis. It's the first archaeological site you'll see as you walk up Dionysiou Areopagitou Street from Dionysiou Areopagitou Street Hadrian's Arch. The plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first Athens, Greece performed there, which makes it the birthplace of drama. The theater held some 17,000 Phone: 210-322-4625 spectators. No guided tours, but a book in English about the theater's history is available for http://odysseus.culture.gr about 9 euros.

Daily 8 am-8 pm April-October, 8 am-3 pm November-March. 2 euros.

Museums

Acropolis Museum This dramatic space, designed by Bernard Tschumi, lies at the base of the Acropolis, next to the Acropolis metro station. A rooftop room invites contemplation of the temple. Glass floors 2-4 Makrigianni St. show a glimpse of an archaeological excavation below. Greeks hope one day to display the Athens, Greece Parthenon sculptures (also known as the Elgin Marbles, now in the British Museum in London) Phone: 210-900-0900 at this museum. It displays antiquities from the Acropolis, including three of the original http://www.theacropolismuseum.gr sculptures from the Parthenon's pediment and sculptures of humans and animals dating to the sixth century BC that were previously displayed in the old Acropolis Museum which this replaced. There's also a light and airy inexpensive cafe-restaurant with striking views onto the Parthenon.

Open November-March Tuesday-Thursday 9 am-5 pm, Friday 9 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-8 pm; April-October daily except Monday 8 am-8 pm (Friday till 10 pm). Admission 5 euros.

Benaki Museum Stunningly beautiful, this museum displays ancient and modern Greek art, as well as Islamic, Coptic and Byzantine treasures. The Hellenistic gold jewelry and Byzantine shrines are not to 1 Koumbari St. (at Vassilissis Sofias be missed. Also displays memorabilia from the War of Independence (1821-31), when the Avenue) Greeks won their independence after 400 years of Turkish rule. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-367-1000 Wednesday and Friday 9 am-5 pm, Thursday and Saturday 9 am-midnight, Sunday 9 am-3 pm. 7 euros (free on Thursday). http://www.benaki.gr

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art This museum, an offshoot of the main Benaki Museum, occupies a neoclassical building overlooking Kerameikos. Inside, four large rooms display ceramics, glassware, metalwork, 22 Agion Asomaton (at Dipilou) woodcarvings and textiles originating mainly from Egypt, Iran and Turkey. Do not miss the Athens, Greece carved doors from eighth-century Mesopotamia, the 10th-century gold belt from Samarra (now Phone: 210-322-1311 Iraq) and a 14th-century astrolabe. http://www.benaki.gr Thursday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. 7 euros.

Byzantine and Christian Museum The most important collection of icons and Byzantine art in Greece, housed in the grounds of a Florentine-style villa. Pieces in an underground exhibition space trace the development of 22 Vassilissis Sofias Ave. Byzantium from early Christianity to the fall of Constantinople. Athens, Greece Phone: 213-213-9572 Daily except Monday 8:30 am-4 pm. 4 euros. http://www.byzantinemuseum.gr

Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art Relics of 5,000 years of Cycladic history. Greece's Cycladic Islands have an ancient history of their own—separate from that of Crete or mainland Greece. Cycladic art consists mostly of 4 Neofytou Douka (Vasilissis Sofias small, highly detailed works in white marble, gold and silver. Its angular marble female figurines Avenue) have inspired many artists of later times. Athens, Greece 10674 Phone: 210-722-8321 Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Thursday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am- 5 pm. 7 euros (3.50 euros on Monday). http://www.cycladic.gr

Greek Children's Art Museum None of the work displayed in this unusual art museum is by renowned artists, because it's all by children younger than 14 years old. Most are on popular subjects such as "My Village," but 9 Kodrou St. (extension of Voulis Street) the museum also has other remarkable exhibits such as children's drawings of the 1946 civil Athens, Greece war. Phone: 210-331-2621

Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm, Sunday 11 am-2 pm. Closed on Monday, official Greek http://www.childrensartmuseum.gr holidays and the month of August.

Greek Folk Art Museum Large collection of 18th- and 19th-century Greek embroidery, jewelry, paintings, ceramics, copper pots and domestic articles. Most impressive are the colorful costumes representing the 17 Kydathineon traditions of each of the country's regions. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-321-3018 Daily except Monday 9 am-3 pm. 2 euros. http://www.melt.gr

Hellenic Children's Museum Children ages 6-10 will appreciate a visit to this old house where they'll find hands-on displays that encourage them to explore, experiment and create. The experienced staff will engage the 14 Kydathineon St. youngsters in several activities (in Greek only), such as cooking, acting and painting. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-331-2995 Tuesday-Friday 10 am-2 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-3 pm. Free (a small charge may apply for some of the weekend activities). http://www.hcm.gr

Kerameikos Museum Within the Kerameikos Cemetery, the museum displays artifacts from excavations of the cemetery, including some very fine stelae (gravestones). Also among the exhibits are excellent 148 Ermou St. samples of ancient Greek pottery. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-346-3552 May-October daily 8 am-5 pm, November-April daily except Monday 8 am-3 pm. Entrance to archaeological site and museum costs 2 euros. http://odysseus.culture.gr

Museum of the Ancient Agora of Athens Housed in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos (originally an arcade of shops), this great museum contains some 65,000 artifacts from the classical period that have been found in the area, 24 Andrianou St., Monastiraki (second including domestic, everyday objects. The proto-geometrical and geometrical vases are entrance at the west end of Polygnotou particularly beautiful. Also of interest are potsherds, or pieces of broken pottery, that were used Street in Plaka) as voting tokens when an ostracism was held. Citizens would scratch the name of a person they Athens, Greece wished to expel. The person receiving the highest number of votes was sent into exile for 10 Phone: 210-321-0185 years. http://odysseus.culture.gr Daily 8 am-3 pm. 4 euros.

National Archaeological Museum One of the world's finest and largest collections of ancient Greek art, this is a must-see for visitors, and you are welladvised to return several times to see it all. The museum is huge— 44 Patision St. plan at least a half-day initially in this elegant 19th-century building. The best-known exhibits Athens, Greece include early Cycladic female figurines; the joyful frescoes from Akrotiri (island of Santorini) Phone: 213-214-4890 from the 16th century BC that show boxing boys and an idyllic spring landscape with flowers http://www.namuseum.gr and swallows; the famous so-called "Gold Mask of Agamemnon" (ca. 1580 BC), which was actually made long before the king's lifetime; the fascinating kouroi (statues of youths and maidens) from the seventh to fifth century BC; the impressive classical sculpture of either Poseidon or Zeus (460 BC); and the most famous, the race horse Artemision and his child jockey (140 BC).

Monday 1-8 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-4 pm. 7 euros.

National Historical and Ethnological Museum Collection of personal effects and traditional costumes of famous Greeks, including the helmet and sword said to have been used by Lord Byron at Messolonghi. The museum occupies all of 13 Stadiou Ave. Greece's old parliament building. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-323-7617 Daily except Monday 9 am-2 pm. 3 euros (free on Sunday). http://odysseus.culture.gr

National Museum of Contemporary Art With the FIX brewery on Syngrou Avenue still being remodeled to house this museum, exhibitions are currently staged at the Athens Conservatory. The permanent collection includes 17-19 Vas. Georgiou B (at Rigillis Street) works by a large number of respected contemporary artists, such as George Hadjimichalis, Athens, Greece Nan Goldin and Seattle video artist Gary Hill. Phone: 210-924-2111

Open daily except Monday 11 am-7 pm, until 10 pm on Thursday. 3 euros (free Thursday 5-10 http://www.emst.gr pm).

War Museum of Greece This museum explores the history of Greek warfare over thousands of years. Exhibits range from prehistoric stone axes and colorful uniforms to fighter planes and heavy artillery. Most Vassilissis Sofias Avenue (at Rizari interesting are the memorabilia from the Greek War of Independence (1821-31), World War I Street) and World War II. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-725-2975 June-October daily except Monday 9 am-7 pm; November-May Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 9 am-3 pm. 2 euros. http://www.warmuseum.gr

Neighborhoods & Districts

Gazi The former industrial district west of Monastiraki has evolved into the city's trendiest neighborhood. Small, alternative nightclubs and impressively styled restaurants have taken up residence inside old warehouses and factories. This area took its name from the huge, former gas complex that has been transformed into the Technopolis cultural center.

Kifissia The most exclusive residential area of Athens is in the northern suburb of Kifissia, easily accessible by the metro. The district's historic landmark hotels, excellent French restaurants and exclusive boutiques are the best way to spend money in style.

Monastiraki The narrow streets between Monastiraki Square, the ancient Agora marketplace and Assomaton Square are the site of the Monastiraki Flea Market. Overlooking Monastiraki Square is the Tzisdarakis Mosque, featuring a splendid pottery collection. A short stroll away, the Central Market on Athinas Street offers an overwhelming variety of seafood, meat and vegetables.

Piraeus The industrial town of Piraeus has served as the port of Athens since the fifth century BC. Occupying a peninsula 6 mi/10 km southwest of the city center, it has become part of Athens' growing metropolitan area. Dominated by one of the largest harbors in the Mediterranean, Piraeus retains the charm of a bygone era in the southern part of the peninsula, featuring two natural harbors (Mikrolimano and Passalimani), a yacht marina and a coastal promenade lined with restaurants and cafes (the classic 1960 film Never on Sunday was set in this atmospheric port). Piraeus can be reached easily from Athens. The Metro Line 1 connects Monastiraki and Omonia Square in central Athens with the passenger-ship section of the harbor.

Plaka Nestled below the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis, this is the oldest quarter in Athens. Cars are banned from most of the area because of its narrow and winding streets—but beware of the motorcycles and scooters, which are everywhere. The Plaka is packed with ancient monuments, Byzantine churches, stately 19th-century houses, several museums, tavernas, cafes and a dozen small hotels. There is even a tiny Cycladic village consisting of picturesque whitewashed houses, known as the Anafiotika settlement.

Psiri Many Athenians head each evening to Psiri, just northwest of Monastiraki. This district used to be a rundown neighborhood, but in the run-up to the 2004 Olympics it was transformed into a popular entertainment destination. In its narrow streets, you can still find numerous traditional tavernas, fashionable bars and art galleries, but it has now been overtaken by Gazi in the “cool” stakes, and some areas have become decidedly seedy.

The Apollo Coast The Apollo Coast is one of the city's major entertainment districts. It starts in Piraeus and ends at Cape Sounion on the southern tip of the Attica peninsula. The residential suburbs of Palio Faliro, Glyfada and Vouliagmeni are major leisure destinations along the coastal road. They feature a choice of beaches, yacht marinas, restaurants and nightclubs. Glyfada has excellent shopping and a golf course. Vouliagmeni is renowned for its luxurious resort hotels, sophisticated restaurants and sailing clubs.

Thissio A stone's throw from the Agora is Thissio, one of the oldest neighborhoods of Athens. Beautifully restored mansions now house gourmet restaurants, hot nightspots and cozy cafes. Linger over a cocktail and gaze at the Acropolis—without the tourism barrage of Plaka.

Parks & Gardens

National Garden and Zappeion Park The National Garden is a sprawling, peaceful stretch of green amid the noise and traffic of central Athens. You'll find towering palm trees, peacocks, a playground and a small zoo. Main entrance on Amalias Avenue, next to the Parliament Open from sunrise to dusk. Athens, Greece

Zoos & Wildlife

Attica Zoological Park The zoo features more than 230 bird species, including penguins, flamingos and tropical birds, as well as reptiles, butterflies, kangaroos, seals, llamas, monkeys, tigers, cheetahs, pygmy Yalou (near the airport) hippos and other mammals. There is also a cafeteria on the premises, along with a picnic area Spata, Greece and a playground. Allow at least two hours to visit the park. Phone: 210-663-4724

Daily 9 am-sunset. 15 euros adults, 11 euros children ages 3-12. http://www.atticapark.com

Other Options

Hellenic Cosmos A choice of virtual-reality presentations will take you back to ancient Greece. You can visit the majestic Zeus Temple in Olympia or a Byzantine palace. 254 Pireos St. Athens, Greece June-September Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-3 pm. October-May Monday-Thursday 9 am-1:30 Phone: 212-254-0000 pm, Friday 9 am-8 pm, Saturday 11 am-4 pm, Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 6 euros adults, 4 euros children. http://www.fhw.gr

Metro Stations A treasure trove of antiquities was unearthed under Athens during the expansion of the subway system. Many of the artifacts are displayed in three consecutive metro stations: Acropolis, Syntagma and Evangelismos.

The archaeological displays are freely accessible daily 5 am-midnight.

Recreation

Just because Athens is a sprawling, urban city doesn't mean there's nowhere to get in a little recreation. If you're nautically inclined, you can charter yachts easily, and the sea also allows for diving excursions. Within easy reach by car, taxi, cable car (tram) or bus are numerous beaches in the southern suburbs of Palio Faliro, Alimos, Elliniko, Glyfada, Voula, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. Some of them are freely accessible, such as the ones in Palio Faliro and Glyfada, and others operate as beach clubs and charge admission fees. The drive to the seaside resort of Varkiza, 45 minutes southwest of downtown, offers panoramic views.

Beaches The Athenian seaside, long overshadowed by island glory, is gaining popularity. A few public beaches offer free sand and surf around the clock. Private resorts lard on the amenities, such as umbrellas, chairs, restrooms, changing cabins, showers, playgrounds, snack bars and lifeguards. Some, such as Astir, even offer extreme watersports. Admission fees start at 4 euros and get more expensive on weekends.

Astir Beach Club Vouliagmeni This most cosmopolitan of all Athens beach clubs is integrated into the luxurious Astir Palace Resort complex in Vouliagmeni. Beach chairs and umbrellas are provided at the beach Apollonos Street 40 together with lockers, changing cabins, showers, a snack bar and an ancient temple of Apollo. Athens, Greece The Beach Club offers a full range of motorized and nonmotorized watersports such as Phone: 210-890-1619 windsurfing, waterskiing, parachuting and sailing. http://www.astir-beach.com Daily 8 am-9 pm April-October, 9 am-5 pm November-March. Admission varies and is more expensive on weekends; see the website for details.

Beach Club Varkiza This large stretch of sand is very popular with Athenians. Sometimes it seems that the whole city has dropped by for a swim at this fine-sand beach backed by carefully tended gardens. Athinon-Souniou Road Facilities such as cabanas (for day and/or night use), changing cabins, showers, snack bars, Athens, Greece umbrellas and beach chairs may be used by bathers. Motorized and nonmotorized watersports Phone: 210-897-2414 are available nearby. http://www.yabanaki.com Open daily 9 am-5 pm in May, 8 am-7 pm June-August. Monday-Friday 5 euros, Saturday and Sunday 6 euros.

EOT Beach Club Vouliagmeni The classic summer hangout. This half-moon-shaped sand beach is one of the most scenic and classiest bathing spots in the Athens area. Bathers can use the beach club's umbrellas and Possidonos Avenue beach chairs (included with the entrance fee), changing cabins and shower facilities and eat at Athens, Greece the taverna or snack bar. In addition to watersports, the club offers tennis, basketball and volleyball courts, as well as a waterslide and a children's playground.

May-September daily 8:30 am-8:30 pm, October-April 8:30 am-4:30 pm. 4 euros.

Grand Beach Lagonissi The five-star Grand Resort Lagonissi has developed one of its fine sandy beaches into the most luxurious beach club in the Athens area. Standard amenities, such as beach chairs and Athens-Sounio Road (25 mi/40 km south umbrellas, are complemented by several eateries and bars (including one in the water). A full of Athens) range of water activities, as well as beach volleyball, soccer, basketball and tennis courts, is Athens, Greece provided. DJs entertain bathers on summer weekends, and there is a variety of concerts, beach Phone: 229-107-6000 parties and other happenings scheduled throughout the season. http://www.lagonissiresort.gr Late May-late September daily 10 am-8 pm. 8 euros on weekdays (free for children age 12 and younger), 17 euros on weekends (free for children age 6 and younger).

Boating & Sailing Greece is Europe's top sailing destination, thanks to its myriad islands and pleasant Mediterranean climate. There are literally hundreds of charter companies renting out boats, generally on a weekly basis (from Saturday to Saturday). You can charter a vessel "skippered" (with a professional captain) or "bareboat" (meaning that you are alone, but at least two of your crew must be qualified or experienced sailors).

Kiriakoulis This is one of the largest and most highly regarded Greek charter companies. 7 Alimou Ave. (Alimos) Athens, Greece Phone: 210-988-6187 http://www.kiriakoulis.com

Golf

Glyfada Golf Course and Club If you like to do your walking on the links, head to the Glyfada Golf Course and Club, just 20 minutes from downtown. The 18-hole, par-72 championship course is the pride of the Attica Terma Pronois region (in terms of golf, that is). Athens, Greece Phone: 210-894-6820 Greens fees 62 euros for 18 holes, 50 euros for nine holes. http://www.golfglyfada.gr

Hiking & Walking The National Garden is a good spot in downtown Athens for a stroll on level ground or an early-morning jog. Not as green, but still a pleasant place to hike, is Philopappou Hill. There are some good uphill trails there, and it's hard to get lost—the Acropolis is always behind you.

Trekking Hellas Those who are serious about hiking tours should contact Trekking Hellas. The company organizes one-day hiking tours on nearby Mount Parnitha, as well as longer trips out of town. 10 Saripolou Athens, Greece Phone: 210-331-0323 http://www.trekking.gr

Scuba & Snorkeling

Aqua Divers Club Located just south of the city along the Apollo Coast, the Aqua Divers Club offers lessons and scuba excursions to dozens of nearby dive spots. Palea Fokea, Anavissos, Attica Athens, Greece Phone: 229-105-3461 http://www.aquadiversclub.gr

Nightlife

Start with dinner and then hit the clubs. Or begin with a couple of drinks and then make your way to one of the many bouzouktsidika (clubs specializing in music played on the bouzouki, an instrument similar to the mandolin). Either way, the city is sure to keep you entertained until the early hours.

Most bars open around 10 pm, but the action doesn't start until after midnight and goes on until 3 or 4 am. Some clubs and bars stay open until 6 am. In summer, it seems as if everyone is out on the town, making the most of the carefree days. Suburbs such as Glyfada and Kifissia are especially popular and provide a cool respite from the city.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Booze In a neoclassical building from 1850, Booze combines a ground floor cafe and an upstairs club, pulling an arty but unpretentious clientele aged 20-50. While the cafe has two bars, a long 57 Kolokotroni, Syntagma wooden table with benches, wall projectors and chill-out music, the club is dark and moody (with Athens, Greece a DJ on weekends). Booze also hosts art exhibitions, theater performances and video art Phone: 215-550-8834 projects. http://www.boozecooperativa.com Daily 11 am-late.

Brettos This cozy old-fashioned drinking den lies in the heart of Plaka. Popular with locals and visitors alike, it has a wooden bar and stools, and one entire wall lined with shelves and beautifully 41 Kidathineon colored back-lit bottles. Claiming to be the oldest distillery in Athens, it dates from 1909 and Athens, Greece serves more than 36 varieties of its own fruit-flavored liquors, making a perfect nightcap. Phone: 210-323-2110

Daily 10 am-2 am. http://www.brettosplaka.com

Galaxy Expect wonderful albeit expensive drinks, fabulous views of the city skyline and the Acropolis, and chic patrons at the rooftop bar of the Athens Hilton. Children are not welcome. 46 Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki (in the Athens Hilton) Monday-Thursday 5 pm-3 am, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-4 am, Sunday 3 pm-3 am. Most major Athens, Greece credit cards. Phone: 210-728-1402 http://www.hiltonathens.gr/en/dining_and _bars.html

Hoxton In a former warehouse with exposed concrete walls, low-level coffee tables and sofas, hip Hoxton stages temporary art and photography exhibitions, serves decent cocktails and plays an 42 Voutadon, Gazi amusing mix of lounge, electronic and rock music. Athens, Greece

Daily noon-3 am.

Rosebud Images from Citizen Kane cover the walls of this artsy bar. Bohemians gather there, hidden away from the gold-and-Gucci crowd typical of Kolonaki. The strawberry margaritas are 40 Skoufa St. renowned. Live jazz on Wednesday. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-339-2370 Daily 9 am-2 am. http://www.rosebud.gr

Seven Jokers Renowned for excellent cocktails, Seven Jokers is popular with local office workers, who go there to unwind over early evening drinks. It's small and cozy, and there's a long wooden bar 7 Voulis (Syntagma) and shelves lined with backlit bottles, but what really makes it special is the music—soothing Athens, Greece jazz early on, revving up to classic rock and some suitably bizarre dance tunes as a party mood sets in. By 3 am, the place buzzes with after-hours drinkers.

Daily 9 pm-4 am.

TAF In a narrow side street close to Monastiraki metro station, TAF (The Art Foundation) occupies a complex of tumble-down neoclassical buildings dating from 1870 and centered on an internal Normanou 5 courtyard garden. While the outbuildings are used as galleries to display ever-changing Athens, Greece exhibitions of contemporary and experimental art, the garden hosts one of the loveliest bars in Phone: 210-323-8757 Athens, with mellow music and candlelight pulling the crowds after sunset. It even has a canopy http://www.theartfoundation.gr roof and outdoor heaters so it can stay open through winter.

Monday-Saturday noon-9 pm, Sunday noon-7 pm.

Dance & Nightclubs

Island With a whitewashed wooden deck lined with potted olive trees and stunning views across the bay, Island has been acknowledged as Athens' most glamorous seaside summer club since its Varkiza (on the coastal road to Sounion, founding in 1994. Flickering candles and ethnic-ambient music set the scene at night, while the 17 miles from the city center) bartenders shake cocktails and the adjoining restaurant serves creative Mediterranean cuisine Athens, Greece and sushi. It's popular with Greek celebrities. Phone: 210-965-3563

May-September daily 9 pm-5 am. http://www.islandclubrestaurant.gr

Nipiagogio Occupying a neoclassical mansion on a pedestrian sidewalk in trendy Gazi, this building was once used as a kindergarten (as its name in Greek implies). Today it's one of Athens' liveliest Elasidon and Kleanthous, Gazi small clubs, with funky electronic music filling the small dance floor. Through summer, cocktails Athens, Greece are served in a charming, low-lit courtyard garden out back, a lovely chill-out place.

Friday 10 pm-4 am, Saturday 10 pm-5 am.

Vinilio Longing for a retro party? Then head for this old-school disco specializing in dance hits from the 1970s-80s in the southern suburb of Glyfada, just a stone's throw from the seashore. DJs still 33 Posidonos Ave. (Hotel Emmantina) spin vinyl. Athens, Greece

Friday and Saturday from 11 pm until sunrise.

Live Music Clubs offering live music (local singers and popular Greek music) are located primarily on Iera Odos, Syngrou and Poseidonos avenues. You can hear everything ranging from traditional folk music to current Greek pop songs. If the blues appeal to you, don't miss out on hearing some rebetika, a wildly popular mix of underworld ballads and intricate traditional orchestrations, developed in the 1920s hash dens of Piraeus. The mandolinlike bouzouki often makes an appearance in various types of music. Note that many clubs abandon the city for locations closer to the sea during the summer.

Fuzz This large, indoor venue stages various live performances from alternative bands from all over the globe, as well as offering regular DJ nights. Rock indie band The Editors and electronic 209 Pireos band Recoil, both from the U.K., have played there. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-345-0817 http://www.fuzzclub.gr

Gagarin 205 Live Music Space Gagarin 205 features live acts. Each week there are performances by both old legends and unknown alternative artists. This former cinema is also used once a week for art-movie 205 Liossion St., Patissia screenings. The nearest metro station is Platia Attikis on Line 1. Athens, Greece Phone: 213-024-8358 http://www.gagarin205.gr

Gazarte Gazarte hosts an eclectic range of live concerts—the Roma brass band Fanfare Ciocarlia from Romania has played there, as has nu-jazz band Club des Belugas from Germany. 32-34 Voutadon Athens, Greece Expect to pay 5 euros-45 euros (depending on the concert and whether you stand at the bar or Phone: 210-346-0347 reserve a table), with the first drink included in the cover price. http://www.gazarte.gr

Half Note Jazz Club Plays host to some of the best jazz and blues bands from around the world. Draws crowds willing to mellow out or dance till dawn. Good service, food and drinks. 17 Trivonianou St. Athens, Greece Nightly from 10:30; closed July and August. Cover charge of 10 euros-20 euros (standing at Phone: 210-921-3310 bar) or 15 euros-35 euros (seated at a table) includes first drink. http://www.halfnote.gr

Stoa Athanaton Authentic rebetika music in the "Hall of the Immortals" in the arcades of the historic (although slightly seedy) Central Market on Athinas Street. Expect an old-fashioned atmosphere 19 Sofokleous St., Kentriki Agora (at attracting Greeks of all ages, with impromptu dancing and flower-throwing. You can also get Athinas Street) traditional Greek food there. Athens, Greece

Friday and Saturday 3:30-7:30 pm and 11:30 pm- 5 am, Sunday 3:30-7:30 pm; closed in summer.

Taximi Long-standing but ever-popular candlelit rembetika den in the somewhat troubled neighborhood of Exarhia. Harilaou Trikoupi and Isavron 29, Exarhia Athens, Greece Friday and Saturday 11:30 pm-5 am; closed in summer. Reservations recommended.

Vox This big, glitzy club stages live concerts by some of Greece's up-and-coming bouzoukia stars. Panos Kalidis, Christos Menidiatis and Stella Kalli perform here regularly. Expect to pay high 16 Iera Odos prices at the bar as well a cover charge depending on the show. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-341-1000 Open mid-September to mid-May Thursday-Saturday from 11:30 pm. http://www.voxmousikiskini.gr

Performing Arts

Dance

Ballet performances at the Athens Concert Hall (or the Megaron Mousikis, as it's called locally) are popular October-June. Shows often sell out, so get tickets in advance. Vassilissis Sofias Avenue & Kokkali. Phone 210-728-2333. http://www.megaron.gr.

For something unique to Greece, through summer the Dora Stratou Dance Company performs traditional songs and dances from various regions of the country at an open-air theatre on Philopappou (phone 210-324-4395; http://www.grdance.org). Early June-late September. Tickets can be bought at the theater before performances.

Film Going to an open-air cinema in Athens is a treat not to be missed. Athenians delight in watching a movie under the stars on a warm summer evening. The movie is only a small part of the overall experience. The folding chairs, metal tables and grassy surroundings make it seem as if you're relaxing in a friend's backyard. There are also cinemas on rooftops with views of the Acropolis. Films are shown in their original languages accompanied by Greek subtitles. We particularly like Cine Paris (in Plaka), Cine Psyri (in Psiri), Dexameni (in Kolonaki) and Thission (in Thissio).

Music

The Athens State Orchestra stages symphony performances at the Athens Concert Hall (Megaron Mousikis) October-June (http://www.koa.gr). Various other Greek orchestras also perform there, as do visiting ensembles. Concerts often sell out, so get tickets in advance. Vassilissis Sofias Avenue & Kokkali. Phone 210-728-2333. http://www.megaron.gr.

A special musical treat is Byzantine chanting, which dates from the first Christian centuries and is best experienced by going to a Sunday Mass. Chants start at 7 am and go on until 11 am. The choir of Agias Irini on Eolou performs the classic monophonic chants, while in Agios Dionysos on Skoufa polyphonic chants are sung. Both are experiences not to be missed.

Opera The Ethniki Lyriki Skini (Greek National Opera Company) stages opera performances. Productions take place at Theatro Olympia, 59-61 Akadimias, in the city center between Syntagma and Omonia. Phone 210-364 3725. http://www.nationalopera.gr.

Ticket Brokers Athens' main Box Office (for both the summer festival and other concerts) in Athens for concerts is at 39 Panepistimiou in the city center, open Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm and Saturday 9 am-3 pm.

Venues Athenians move outdoors in the summer for dining and entertainment. During the summer months, the outdoor Herod Atticus Theater (hosting classical music and opera) and Lykavittos Theater (hosting pop and rock entertainers) take over the cultural calendar with the staging of the Athens and Epidaurus Festival. http://www.greekfestival.gr.

Onassis Cultural Centre The Onassis Cultural Centre (funded by Greece’s bestknown shipping family) occupies a slick glass-and-marble building on Syngrou Avenue. It has an 880-seat amphitheater, a 220-seat 107-109 Syngrou Ave. auditorium and an exhibition hall, and hosts theater, dance and music performances, with an Athens, Greece emphasis on supporting contemporary Greek artists and international collaborations. The top- Phone: 210-900-5800 floor Hytra restaurant has a rooftop terrace affording spectacular city views. http://www.sgt.gr Open daily.

Spectator Sports

Thanks to the 2004 Olympic Games, Athens now has some of the best sports facilities in Europe. Its modern Olympic Stadium and Peace and Friendship Stadium are used frequently for major European and international events.

The top spectator sport is football (soccer), with the major clubs being Panathinaikos (of Athens) and Olympiakos (of Piraeus). Attending a match is not for the faint-hearted: Expect a rowdy crowd jumping on the seats and uttering outrageously obscene insults.

Panathinaikos F.C. play at the Apostolos Nikolaidis stadium. Alexandras Avenue, Ambelokipi, Athens. Phone 210-870-9000. http://www.pao.gr.

Olympiakos F.C. play at Karaiskakis Stadium in Piraeus. Alexandras Square, Piraeus. Phone 210-414-3000. http://www.olympiacos.org.

Second to football comes basketball: The Panathinaikos and Olympiakos football clubs also fund rival basketball squads under the same

Panathinaikos B.C. play at OAKA stadium, which was built for the 2004 Olympics, 168 Kifissias Ave., Athens. Phone 210-610-7160. http://www.paobc.gr.

Olympiakos B.C. play at Peace and Friendship Stadium, Ethnarhou Makariou, Neo Faliro, Athens. Phone 210-489-3000. http://www.olympiacosbc.gr.

Tickets for matches can be purchased online through the teams’ respective websites.

Shopping

It's nearly impossible to stroll through the old city without being tempted to buy something. Shops are so tiny that many vendors display their colorful wares outside and along the narrow streets. Much of what you'll see are touristy trinkets made elsewhere, but you'll also find plenty of shops selling gold jewelry with traditional Greek designs, hand-woven tablecloths and unusual pottery. Shops also sell everything from leather goods and designer labels to religious icons and fine antiques. T-shirt shops are everywhere.

Be aware that vendors in the old city and at the markets are aggressive—once you get inside a shop, it's often difficult to get out without leaving some money behind. But don't forget to bargain in the souvenir shops and the flea market. Museum gift shops are also a good place to look for high-quality souvenirs that are often reproductions of museum pieces.

Don't miss the Monastiraki Flea Market, particularly if you're in town on a Sunday. For high-quality goods, head to Ermou Street off Syntagma Square or to the streets around Kolonaki Square.

Shopping Hours: Most shops have hours as follows: Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 9 am-3 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 9 am- 2:30 pm and 5-8:30 pm. All department stores and supermarkets and many larger shops stay open through the day, and some stay open until 6 pm on Saturday. Many shops in the Plaka area are open daily 9 am-9 pm or even later.

Antique Stores Antiques shops can be found in the Kolonaki area, at the Monastiraki Flea Market and near Syntagma Square.

Antiqua Selection of antiques such as small furniture and decorative items. 2 Amalias Ave. (off Syntagma Square) Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-3 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-6:30 Athens, Greece pm. Phone: 210-323-2220 http://www.antiqua.gr

Kilim Hali Hand-woven rugs from Egypt, China, the Caucasus, Afghanistan, Turkey and Iran. 9 Valaritou St. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-3:30 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 Athens, Greece pm. Phone: 210-363-7056 http://www.kilimhali.com

Bookstores Bibliophiles should stroll along Solonos and Ippokratous streets, between Syntagma Square and Omonia Square, in Exarhia, which is home to the (predominantly Greek-language) book trade.

Compendium Friendly English owner, English-language books, newspapers, magazines, travel guides and maps. 8 Alikarnassou Athens, Greece Daily 9 am-3 pm. Phone: 210-383-2139 http://www.compendium.gr

Eleftheroudakis The oldest and largest bookstore for foreign-language books in Greece. The central store is a browser's paradise, with four floors and an astonishing variety of titles. 15 Panepistimiou St. Athens, Greece Monday-Friday 9 am-9 pm, Saturday 9 am-7 pm. Phone: 210-323-3861 http://www.books.gr

Markets

Laiki Markets The name means "people's" or "farmers" market. Each district of Athens plays host to a laiki market at least once a week, offering a wide variety of fresh fruits and vegetables as well as household goods. One of the liveliest markets can be found each Saturday morning on Kallidromiou Street in Exarhia, a 20-minute walk from Syntagma Square.

Monastiraki Flea Market Visitors flock to this market at the edge of the Plaka to sample everything from the modern to the ancient, all in an area of less than 1 sq mi/2.6 sq km. The best time to visit the flea market is The main shopping areas are Sunday morning. Visitors will find everything from military uniforms to Mickey Mouse clocks to Pandrossou and Ifaistou streets near the mock Roman helmets in the narrow alleyways and streets. Bargaining is quite acceptable in the Acropolis individual stalls, so don't settle on the asked-for price. Athens, Greece

Daily 9 am-9 pm.

Shopping Areas

Attica Close to Syntagma Square, the poshest shopping center in the city has extends over eight floors, selling the most fashionable international brands, especially clothing, accessories, 9 Panepistimiou cosmetics and homewares. It's worth a visit just to look at the most beautifully decorated Athens, Greece shopping windows of Greece. Phone: 211-180-2600

Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday 10 am-7 pm. http://www.atticadps.gr

Ermou Street This pedestrian-only street off Syntagma Square shouldn't be missed if shopping is among your travel objectives. It has always been Athens' busiest shopping street and is packed with mid-range clothing, accessory and shoe shops.

Kolonaki This fashionable neighborhood at the foot of Lykavittos Hill is the chicest place to shop in Athens. It's teeming with boutiques—Gucci, Lanvin, Bulgari, Lancel, Vuitton. When you need a break from shopping, there are plenty of trendy coffee shops and restaurants around Kolonaki Square.

The Mall Those who like shopping in malls should check out The Mall in the northern suburb of Maroussi, served by Neratziotissa metro station, with 200 shops, more than a dozen eateries and a 15- Athens, Greece screen movie theater. http://www.themallathens.gr

Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday 9 am-8 pm.

Specialty Stores Greeks have always been good at making jewelry, from ancient to modern times. Consider taking a walk along Voukourestiou Street (between Stadiou and Akadimias streets) to have a look at the many goldsmiths' wares. Boutiques selling clothing by Greek designers are also worth checking out.

Apivita Shop & Polis Spa Apivita creates natural beauty and skin-care products based on essential oils and plant extracts (now available beyond Greece, in specialty stores in New York, San Francisco, London, and Solonos 6 Tokyo, among other major cities). In this Kolonaki store, consultants can provide professional Athens, Greece advice about which products are right for you, from the deliciously scented Express face masks, Phone: 210-364-0560 to the anticellulite aromatherapy serums, and Propline products including shower gels and body http://www.apivita.com milks containing bee propolis. It's also possible to book a massage or a facial at the adjoining Polis Spa.

Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday 10 am-6 pm.

Bulgari This prestigious Italian fashion designer of Greek origin has a number of shops in Greece. He presents his gold jewelry at this elegant Athens boutique. 8 Voukourestiou St. Athens, Greece Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-4 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm. Phone: 210-371-1011 http://www.bulgari.com

Elena Votsi Best known for her chunky necklaces and rings that combine semiprecious stones with 18-carat gold, Votsi also redesigned the medals for the 2004 Olympics. She worked for Gucci for 7 Xanthou several years before opening her own store in Athens. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-360-0936 Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-3 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm. http://www.elenavotsi.com

Ilias Lalaounis This designer's jewelry is inspired by the ancient Greeks, Minoans and Byzantines. 6 Panepistimiou St. (at Voukourestiou Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-4 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm. Street) Athens, Greece

Kombologadiko Greek-style rosary beads, known as komboloys, are supposed to aid concentration and reduce stress. The Greeks believe that the beads have metaphysical properties and can bring people Amerikis 9, Kolonaki (the most central of in direct connection with God. There's a whole science attached to them called kombologia. the four locations in and around Athens) The monks on Mount Athos were the first to produce rosaries in Greece, making theirs with Athens, Greece wool knots. On a more mundane level, rosary beads are also rumored to be a "hidden force" Phone: 212-700-0500 when you want to quit smoking. The beads can be made with a variety of materials—amber, http://www.kombologadiko.gr semiprecious stones, coral, wood and bones. They come in all prices, too, ranging from a mere 7 euros to thousands, if you opt for the most precious red amber.

Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-4 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-9 pm.

Korres The pilot store of the renowned line of Greek 100%-natural beauty products, which are much cheaper in Athens than anywhere else in the world. They go back to the first homeopathic Ermou 4 pharmacy of Athens. The first Korres product was an aromatic herbal syrup with honey and Athens, Greece aniseed, which George Korres' grandfather used in his hometown on the island of Naxos. Now Phone: 210-321-0054 the extensive line ranges from nicely packaged cleansing, moisturizing and anti-aging products http://www.korres.com to shower gels, body milks, shampoos and nutraceuticals—perfect gifts to take home. The pharmacy is located at Ivikou 8, Pangrati (phone 210-722-2774).

Korres Pharmacy: Monday and Wednesday 8:30 am-2:30 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 8:30 am-2 pm and 5-8 pm. The Korres store is open Monday-Friday 9 am-9 pm, Saturday 9 am-8 pm.

Loukia Atelier One of Greece's most famous fashion-designer labels. Athens' glamorous elite adores Loukia's creative, extravagant, flamboyant and romantic style. The lace tops and silky skirts don't come Kanari 24 cheap, and the embroidered wedding dresses cost a fortune, but they will be hard to find Athens, Greece outside of Greece. The haute-couture store (by appointment only) is upstairs, while on the Phone: 210-362-7334 ground floor Loukia Pret a Porter also sells embroidered and sequined lace pieces in addition http://www.loukia.gr to white shirts, dresses and skirts.

Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm; Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-4 pm.

Melissinos Dating back to 1927 (though the original store was at another location, in Plaka), Melissinos was founded by the present owner’s grandfather. Crafting over 30 different styles of humble Agias Theklas handmade leather sandals, just as the ancients would have worn them, it has won the hearts of Athens, Greece many illustrious visitors, including Sophia Loren, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, the Beatles and Phone: 210-321-9247 Jeremy Irons. http://www.melissinos-art.com Daily 10 am-6 pm.

Orsalia Parthenis The young Athenian designer Orsalia Parthenis took over the boutiques of her father Dimitris and is known for her very wearable, sexy collections. Orsalia loves wrap dresses, tunics and 20 Dimokritou St. (at Tsakalof Street) high-waisted shorts with a little retro fetish touch inspired by female heroines of the film noir. But Athens, Greece she also has a more classical line with casual-chic T-shirts, ribbed vests and pants made Phone: 210-363-3158 exclusively of natural fabrics in subdued monochrome colors. http://www.orsalia-parthenis.gr Monday and Wednesday 10 am-3 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm.

Zolotas Operating since 1895, this upscale jewelry store offers beautiful gold creations covering a wide price range. The store also has gold-plated silver copies of museum pieces, as well as silver 10 Panepistimiou St. (at Voukourestiou objects and pens. Street) Athens, Greece Monday and Wednesday 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 9:30 am-8:30 pm, Phone: 210-360-1272 Saturday 10 am-5 pm. http://www.zolotas.gr

Itinerary

Day Trips

To Kaisariani Monastery. Located about 5 mi/8 km southeast of central Athens by road, this monastery is set in the wooded foothills of Mount Hymettos (you'll need a road map). Although built in the 11th century, the monastery occupies a site that has been sacred since antiquity because it marks the source of the River Ilissos. In ancient times, the water was thought to cure sterility. Locals still fill their water jugs at the monastery's fountain. Monastery buildings include the church, refectory, mill, bakery and bathhouse. The lush planted area also affords a good view of Athens. Entry 2 euros. Daily except Monday 8 am-3 pm (call to confirm opening hours). Alimou-Katehaki Avenue, Kaisariani. Phone 210-723-6619. http://odysseus.culture.gr.

To Sounion. About 45 mi/70 km from central Athens. You will pass countless coves and splendid views, as well as some rugged Greek terrain, on your way to the Aegean, Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon (entrance 4 euros). The views of the sea and the coast are breathtaking from the Doric columns of the fifth-century-BC temple. (Next to the Poseidon Temple are the remains of a smaller temple dedicated to Athena Sounias.) A few yards/meters away, the land drops 200 ft/60 m to the sea below. For a special treat, stay to watch the sunset. From Athens, you can drive along the coastal road of the Saronic Gulf, past the beaches of Glyfada, Vouliagmeni, Varkiza and Voula or, better still, take the Cape Sounion bus tour. Daily 9:30 am-sunset. Phone 229-203-9363. http://odysseus.culture.gr.

To Epidaurus. About 100 mi/160 km from Athens, Epidaurus has a fantastic ancient outdoor theater, which is used by the Athens and Epidaurus Festival for summertime ballet and symphonic festivals. Its acoustics are so fine that, while standing at the top step of the theater, you can hear a pin drop on the stage far below. The nearby museum features Roman portrait statues, medical inscriptions and surgical instruments. The site is open daily 8 am-5 pm January-March, 8 am-8 pm April-October (entrance 6 euros), 8 am-3 pm in November and December (phone 27530-22009). For information about summer theater performances, contact the Athens and Epidaurus Festival (phone 210-327-2000; http://www.greekfestival.gr), or check listings in Athens' English-language publications. You can take the toll road out of Athens toward Corinth, or the more difficult but pleasant drive along the coastal road of the Saronic Gulf. A few hundred yards/meters past the Corinth Canal, a large sign marks the turnoff to Epidaurus.

Around the Saronic Islands. South of Athens' seaport in Piraeus, the islands of Aegina, Poros and Hydra offer peaceful fishing villages, Byzantine churches, ancient temples and endless seascapes. Hydraiki Naval Company offers a one-day cruise itinerary, including a brief stop at each island, with lunch served on the boat. Cruises depart daily from Piraeus (Gate E1) at 8 am and return around 7:20 pm. Phone 210-323-0100. http://www.onedaycruise.gr.

Local Tours Most companies offer tours in several languages and accept payment in euros and U.S. dollars. For information regarding tours, contact the Greek National Tourist Organization.

Day Plans To help you get the most out of your time in Athens, we've designed two different itineraries.

PLAN A

The Acropolis

If this is your first visit to Athens, be sure to start with the Acropolis. From Piraeus, take Metro Line 1 to Monastiraki. Walk up through Plaka to the Acropolis rock to check out the ancient ruins and the nearby Acropolis Museum. Then follow the "archaeological promenade" through Thissio to return to Monastiraki. Stop for an informal outdoor lunch at either To Kouti in Monastiraki or Sholarhio in Plaka. Spend the remainder of the afternoon either exploring the bustling central market or browsing the clothes shops on Ermou, where you will also find the charming Byzantine church of Kapnikarea.

PLAN B

Museums, Views and Mediterranean Cuisine

If you've already been to Athens and visited the Acropolis, we propose an alternative itinerary. From Piraeus take Metro Line 1 to Monastiraki and then change trains for Syntagma. From there, either hike or take the funicular to the peak of Lykavittos Hill, for a panoramic city view and a break for coffee at Orizontes. Descend to Kolonaki and visit the Benaki Museum for a succinct and fascinating introduction to Greek art. For lunch, choose from modern Greek fare at Tzitzikas kai Mermigas or chic, multiethnic cuisine at Altamira, both within walking distance of the museum. Spend the afternoon browsing the boutiques and antiques stores in Kolonaki, or strolling in the National Gardens.

Dining Dining Overview

Whether dining at a neighborhood taverna or an elegant restaurant, Greeks take their time over food. The cuisine is delightfully uncomplicated and quite different from what's served in Greek or Cypriot restaurants abroad. Much of the cooking relies on simple seasonings of fresh meat and vegetables.

For breakfast, Greeks rarely eat more than bread or bakery-fresh tiropites (flaky cheese-filled pastries). Lunch is served in the late afternoon, generally between 2 and 4 pm, and dinner around 10 or 11 pm. To stave off hunger between meals, they enjoy snacking on souvlaki (garlic-marinated lamb kebabs) or tiropites bought from a street vendor.

It's common to make a lunch of mezedes, or hors d'oeuvres. Typical dishes include fried meatballs, squash balls, octopus, shrimp, squid, cheese, olives, stuffed grape leaves, tzatziki (garlicky yogurt and cucumbers), eggplant dip, small sausages and giant beans. You can find mezedes at an ouzeri (a bar serving ouzo) or at a mezedopolio (a bar serving locally produced wine or beer).

If you're having a full meal, make sure it includes one of the following local specialties: moussaka (lamb and eggplant in bechamel sauce), kebabs, pastitsio (lamb or goat meat with macaroni and tomatoes), stifado (braised beef with onions), paithakia (grilled lamb or goat chops), melitzanosalata (eggplant salad), revithia soupa (chickpea soup), spanakopita (spinach pie), chtapodi (octopus salad) and tiropita (cheese pie). Don't leave Greece without trying baklava and other pastries made from phyllo dough, nuts and honey. Strong Greek coffee (similar to Turkish coffee—but don't tell that to the Greeks) is usually quite good. Ask for it sketo (black), metrio (semisweet) or glyko (sweet).

The traditional alcoholic drinks of Greece are quite distinctive and pack a strong punch. Ouzo, the popular aperitif, is anise-flavored and turns cloudy when mixed with water, as is often done. Metaxa, a brandy, is graded in quality and priced according to stars, with three being the cheapest. Retsina is an acquired taste (imagine a pine tree marinated in wine). Mavrodaphne is extremely sweet—it's more like a dessert wine.

There has been a renaissance of the age-old Greek wine-making tradition. The introduction of new vines and the use of better techniques have resulted in some excellent reds and whites on par with the world's best wines.

When selecting a restaurant, know that estiatorion are the more expensive conventional restaurants; tavernas are informal, family-run establishments; psistaria offer mostly grilled meats; and psarotaverna specialize in seafood dishes. Many restaurants close during the summer months or move to another location, usually by the sea.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 15 euros; $$ = 15 euros-30 euros; $$$ = 31 euros-50 euros; and $$$$ = more than 50 euros.

Local & Regional

Athiri A true find for affordable modern Greek dining in trendy Gazi, Athiri occupies a neoclassical building with a leafy courtyard garden. The menu is short, and everything is prepared from 15 Plataion locally sourced fresh ingredients—look for the risotto with cuttlefish and spinach, and duck leg Athens, Greece with fig sauce and apple salad. The service is professional yet friendly. Phone: 210-346-2983

Tuesday-Saturday for dinner only, Sunday for lunch only. $$$. http://www.athirirestaurant.gr

Daphne's Restaurant Frescoed walls, somewhat kitsch decor, strolling musicians and terrace dining in a beautifully restored 1830s mansion with a charming walled courtyard. Celebrities who have flocked there 4 Lysikratous St. (across from Hadrian's to sample the international and traditional Greek cuisine have included Hillary Clinton and the Arch) Queen of Spain. Dishes range from meatballs in ouzo-flavored tomato sauce to more daring Athens, Greece combinations, such as fried prawns in a crust of crushed almonds. Phone: 210-322-7971

Daily for dinner only. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. http://www.daphnesrestaurant.gr

Eleas Gi This elegant restaurant, decorated with small, potted olive trees, serves a huge variety of regional Greek dishes made from fresh, seasonal products and prepared with olive oil. The 4 Olympionikon (Politia Square) menu changes seasonally and features a selection of appetizers, meat dishes and Athens, Greece mouthwatering desserts, all in the best Greek tradition. A tree-shaded terrace overlooks the Phone: 210-620-6433 city. http://www.eleasgi.gr Monday-Saturday for dinner, Sunday for lunch. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards.

Gefseis Me Onomasia Proelefsis An eclectic version of Greek cuisine, elegantly presented, can be found at Gefseis. This restaurant is located inside an old villa in the affluent northern suburb of Kifissia, next to the well- 317 Kifissias Ave. stocked wine store under the same management. The restaurant's menu is based on traditional Athens, Greece recipes that have been refined by the American-trained chef. Among her creations are dishes Phone: 210-800-1402 such as yogurt-crusted pie filled with minced lamb and wild vegetables, and smoked eel served http://www.gefseis.gr on a salad of fresh spinach, grapefruit and beetroot. Diners will appreciate the excellent selection of rare Greek cheeses and the large wine list.

Monday-Saturday for dinner, Sunday for lunch. $$$$. Most major credit cards.

Hytra In a stylish and subdued modern setting, the Michelin-starred young chef Nikos Karathanos celebrates Greek haute cuisine. He transforms wild herbs, fresh vegetables and other humble 107-109 Syngrou Ave. (Onassis Cultural ingredients into some exceptional dishes. Diners are advised to opt for the multicourse Centre) degustation menu, a hard-to-beat value at 62 euros (or 72 euros including two glasses of wine). Athens, Greece On the menu, imaginative treatments of classic Greek flavors include smoked ham foam with Phone: 210-331-6767 carpaccio of sea bass, pork with orange-scented celeriac puree, and among the desserts, http://www.hytra.gr panna cotta flavored with cardamom and Greek coffee foam.

Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards.

Katsourbos This exquisite eatery serves authentic Cretan cuisine in a refined dining room with an old tile floor and mismatched wooden tables and chairs. All the dishes are made from fresh produce, 2 Aminta much of which is shipped over directly from Crete. Be sure to try the kolokithokeftedes (zucchini Athens, Greece fritters), and if it's the right time of year, the stamnagathi (wild greens particular to the island). Phone: 210-722-2167 The service is pleasantly discreet but friendly. You'll find it just a 10-minute walk south of http://www.katsourbos.gr Kolonaki, making it a good choice for lunch after a morning of museums. In summer it also has outdoor tables on the square across the street.

Daily for lunch and dinner. $$.

Melilotos A fine choice for lunch in the city center, close to Syntagma Square, Melilotos is popular with local office workers, it has a menu that changes daily—expect colorful creative dishes such as Kalamiotou 19 baked salmon with lentil and tomato salad, or chicken stuffed with figs and served with aromatic Athens, Greece rice. Phone: 210-322-2458

Monday-Saturday lunch only. http://www.melilotos.gr

Milos Following the success of the Milos restaurants in New York and Montreal, the Athens branch opened at the Hilton to great acclaim (the chain has since expanded to Las Vegas and Miami). 46 Vassilissis Sophias Ave. (at the Hilton) Diners select their fish at a catch-of-the-day counter and usually ask that it be grilled or baked Athens, Greece within a salt crust. Other seafood specialties include lobster salad, squid stuffed with four types Phone: 210-724-4400 of Greek cheese, and fried eel with capers and vine sprouts. Lamb chops and sirloin steaks are http://milos.ca/restaurants/athens also on the menu. Next to the open-plan kitchen is the chef's table for up to 10 people. For these guests, the chefs prepare cookedtoorder dishes—even if they are not on the menu. In addition, a contingent of housewives cooks regional Greek specialties. Some dishes, such as wild goat with rare vegetables, and rooster with fresh pasta, must be ordered a day ahead. The comprehensive wine list includes both Greek and international selections.

Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. $$$$.

Orizontes Lykavittou One of the city's most dramatic vistas can be found at Orizontes, which sits atop Lykavittos, the tallest hill in Athens. This restaurant and cafe has great views of the Acropolis and the Lykavittos Hill seashores and offers a modern take on Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-722-7065 Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. http://www.orizonteslycabettus.gr

Sholarhio This humble establishment doesn't even have a menu: Just pick mezedes from the server's tray. Wash down batter-fried eggplant, flaming sausages and marinated peppers with a bottle of 14 Tripodon St. Mythos beer or jug of local wine. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-324-7605 Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. http://www.sholarhio.gr

Sigalas-Bairaktaris This Athenian institution, in business for more than 100 years, serves basic Greek staples, notably souvlaki and kebab, but people go as much for the buzz as for the food. Check the 2 Monastiraki Square dishes in the cabinet and enjoy seeing the waiters bustle around. Athens, Greece

Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $. No credit cards.

Strofi Known primarily for its superb view of the Acropolis, this place is well worth a stop. Founded in 1975 but totally refurbished in 2010, it now has a chic white modern minimalist look. It's also a 25 Robertou Galli St. decent choice for carefully-presented traditional Greek cooking if you have only one night in the Athens, Greece city. Be aware that you have to climb two flights of stairs to reach the stunning roof terrace. Phone: 210-921-4130

Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. http://www.strofi.gr

To Kouti Located next to the Agora, you'll find this romantic hangout attracts the intellectual elite who appreciate its modern wood-and-slate interior. To Kouti, named for its "little box" shape, offers 23 Adrianou St. an unobstructed view of the Acropolis from the second floor. Try to go when the moon is rising. Athens, Greece 10555 The menu features colorful, creative dishes with the abundant use of fresh herbs and spices.

Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.

Trapezaria In a refurbished warehouse with a polished pine floor and industrial-chic decor, just off Syngrou Avenue, this restaurant opened in November 2011. Owner-chef Dimitris Panagiotopoulos Theodorou Negri 1 changes the menu with the seasons, using fresh local produce to create innovative Athens, Greece Mediterranean dishes such as mushrooms baked with goat's cheese and black sesame seeds, Phone: 210-921-3500 followed by veal with figs and asparagus sauteed with butter roasted almonds. It's packed with http://www.trapezaria.gr locals most evenings.

Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations recommended. $$$.

Tzitzikas kai Mermigas With an interior decorated to look like an old-fashioned grocery store, the "Grasshopper and the Ant" serves Greek dishes with a modern twist. Upon arrival, you'll be given tsipoura (a 12-14 Mitropoleos, Syntagma potent spirit), olives and the menu. Memorable dishes include the sublime chicken with mastic, Athens, Greece and the chocolate-covered profiteroles. It's hugely popular with locals and visitors alike, so you may have to wait for a table.

Daily for lunch and dinner. $$.

Vlassis This popular taverna is truly a family affair. Regulars have been dining there for more than a decade on dishes such as squid stewed with spinach and cabbage or eggplant with mild 15 Meandrou St. peppers. The down-home desserts are great, too, from strained yogurt with quince to freshly Athens, Greece made halvah. Picking your favorite dishes couldn't be easier—just chose from the big wooden Phone: 210-725-6335 tray the waiter will put under your nose. It's hard to get a table, so book early. http://www.vlassisrestaurant.gr October-May; Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Closed 10-30 August. $$.

Cuisines

Asian

Furin Kazan Just one block back from Syntagma, this is a great place to feast on Japanese food without breaking the bank. It's fast and informal, with tasty sushi—try the salmonavocado maki rolls— Appollonos 2, Syntagma plus main dishes such as the Chagan special (Japanese-style fried rice with eggs, chicken, Athens, Greece ham, shrimp and vegetables). Phone: 210-322-9170

Daily for lunch and dinner, open from 2 pm Sunday. $$. http://www.furin-kazan.com

Kiku Reputedly the best Japanese restaurant in town, Kiku serves mouthwatering sushi and sashimi as well as tempura, sukiyaki and other Japanese specialties. Relocates to the island of 12 Dimokritou St. Mykonos in summer. Athens, Greece Phone: 210-364-7033 October-April Monday-Saturday for dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. http://www.athenskiku.com

French

L'Abreuvoir One of the first French restaurants in Athens, L'Abreuvoir is still a favorite among the sophisticated crowd. With a location and decor matching the elegance of its guests, the 51 Xenokratous St. restaurant boasts fine French cuisine. Specializing in steaks and chicken dishes, L'Abreuvoir Athens, Greece also offers a wide range of wines from around the world. The duck fillet with cherry sauce and Phone: 210-722-9106 the sea bass with fennel are good choices. http://www.abreuvoir.gr Daily for lunch and dinner. Lunch prix-fixe menu available for 30 euros. $$$$. Most major credit cards.

Spondi The winner of numerous national and international awards (including two Michelin stars), Spondi's French chef Arnaud Bignon serves refined and creative dishes prepared according to 5 Pyrronos French principles with a dash of Greek spice. The six-course Discovery Menu is a gourmet Athens, Greece treat at 128 euros (includes coffee). The desserts are some of the best in Athens, and the wine Phone: 210-756-4021 list is excellent as well. The menu changes twice a year, summer and winter. The setting is a http://www.spondi.gr carefully restored neoclassical building, with dining rooms on three levels—think exposed brickwork, crystal chandeliers, black leather sofas and walls decorated with large, colorful canvases by contemporary Greek artists. In summer, diners can opt for the charming courtyard garden shaded with bougainvillea.

Daily for dinner only. $$$$.

Vardis The city's best French restaurant is at Pentelikon, a landmark hotel from 1923 located in the exclusive Kifissia area. The beautifully presented dishes are served on fine china in the elegant 66 Deligianni St. (at the Hotel Pentelikon) dining room lined with Venetian mirrors and are accompanied by excellent French wines. The Athens, Greece consistent quality of the Vardis has made it one of the best restaurants in Athens for many years Phone: 210-623-0650 in a row and a proud recipient of a Michelin star. http://www.pentelikon.gr/hotel/cpage.asp Daily except Sunday for dinner only. $$$$. Most major credit cards. ?id=21&subid=22

Fusion

Altamira Multiethnic restaurant featuring a huge variety of Chinese, Arabian, Indian and Mexican specialties, ranging from tandoori chicken to crispy duck and fajitas. Excellent desserts. 36 Tsakalof St. Altamira is located inside a renovated old mansion behind the Agios Dionysios Church of Athens, Greece Kolonaki. Phone: 210-361-4695

Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$$. http://www.altamira.com.gr

Funky Gourmet Set in a single-story, neoclassical building with a glass conservatory-style dining room up top, Funky Gourmet has a minimalist interior decorated in black, white and gray; the work of 13 Paramithias and Salaminos contemporary artists hangs on the walls. The chef-owners, Georgianna Hiliadiki and Nikos Athens, Greece Roussos, offer refined, beautifully presented cuisine bringing together Greece, Italy and France Phone: 210-524-2727 in such dishes as chicken Poussin with feta cheese panacotta and tomato confit. It offers a http://www.funkygourmet.com highly recommended Big Degustation Menu at 130 euros (185 euros with wine pairing) and a Small Degustation Menu at 90 euros (135 euros with wine pairing), and was awarded a Michelin Star in 2012.

Tuesday-Saturday for dinner only. $$$.

Italian

Salumaio di Atene Exclusive Italian trattoria serving not only traditional recipes such as lasagna with spinach and ricotta, and risotto with truffles and foie gras, but also such contemporary dishes as salmon with 3 Panagitsas St. vanilla-lime sauce. Only the best ingredients are used. Wonderful choice of salads, too. Athens, Greece Delicious desserts, especially the creme brulee. Some excellent Italian wines are offered as well.

Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.

Middle Eastern

Nargile Come here for sublime Lebanese cuisine, including fragrant classics such as hummus, barbecue meats, tabbouleh and knafeh bil jibme (semolina with sweet cheese and rose water 50 Harilaou Trikoupi syrup). Accompany your meal with Lebanese arak (a potent spirit) or wine, and try smoking Athens, Greece from a narghile (a water pipe). It also stages belly dancing on Friday and Saturday evenings. Phone: 210-808-3333

Tuesday-Saturday for dinner only. $$$. http://www.nargile.gr

Breakfast & Brunch

Klepsydra This quaint cafe serves coffee, teas and a selection of delicious homemade cakes at outdoor tables on a pedestrian-only side street below the Acropolis in Plaka. Klepsidras and Thrasyvoulou 9 Athens, Greece Daily 10 am-midnight. $.

New Taste Greeks love their food, but breakfast is generally limited to coffee and maybe a pie. However, New Hotel has gained a fine reputation for doing the best Sunday brunch in town. Served in the 16 Filellinon (Syntagma) light and airy ground floor restaurant, New Taste, it’s popular with hotel residents and Athenians Athens, Greece alike, and includes fortifying goodies such as Eggs Benedict, freshly baked croissants and Phone: 210-327-3000 pastries, and frothy cappuccino. http://www.yeshotels.gr Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$.

Seafood

Varoulko Lefteris Lazarou was the first Greek chef to be awarded a prestigious Michelin star. He's also become something of a local celebrity, having starred in Greece's version of Master Chef. Pireos 80 Many celebrities and heads of states have fallen for the sensational and inventive seafood Athens, Greece specialties that are the trademark of this restaurant. You are advised to leave the selection of Phone: 210-522-8400 dishes and wines to the well-trained staff or opt for the five-course degustation menu. Seafood http://www.varoulko.gr is the specialty, but with good meat dishes, too, and among the desserts a choice of freshly made pastries. The restaurant boasts a sleek wood-and-glass interior plus a summer roof- terrace with an Acropolis view.

Nightly except Sunday for dinner only. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards.

Security Etiquette

Although many laud Greece as the birthplace of democracy, the country's heritage as a place of trade and business is also rich. Visitors from North America will find most of the country's practices and customs to be familiar.

Appointments—Set your appointments at least a couple of weeks in advance, if possible. Punctuality is expected, but not strictly adhered to. As a guest, you should be on time, although your Greek counterpart may be less so. Reconfirm your appointments a couple of days beforehand.

Personal Introductions—A handshake and a brief nod are the typical greeting. First meetings are formal, using the last name of the new acquaintance.

Negotiating—Emphasis is placed on the value of senior statesmen and advisers. Negotiating styles tend to be similar to those in other parts of Europe and North America, if a bit slower than in northern Europe. Personal feelings and subjective criteria can be as important as objective facts to a Greek businessperson.

Business Entertaining—Greeks are as likely to gather over a cup of coffee as they are a meal. If eating is on the agenda, expect it to be a communal affair with large dishes that are shared by everyone at the table. The host, whoever issued the invitation, divides the bill equally or simply pays it. However destitute, he or she may become quite offended if guests proffer euros. Wine is common at lunch and dinner. Draining your glass dry is considered gauche. Leave your glass more than half-full to indicate you've had enough.

Body Language—Avoid using head gestures or interpreting them. Traditionally, the Greek head gesture for "no" is an upward nod of the head and a raised eyebrow, which looks much like the gesture for "yes" in many other countries. The Greek gesture for yes can be similarly confusing. These days, many in Greece tend to use more standard head gestures, but you can never be sure. Try to get a verbal answer to avoid confusion. Do not use the "OK" gesture with the thumb and index finger forming a circle, as this will be interpreted as an insult. The "thumbs-up" gesture may be used to signal "OK." Cheek kisses are a common greeting and goodbye among acquaintances.

Evil Eye—Country superstitions still linger in the capital. Don't coo over an infant or praise anything excessively, as this could draw evil spirits, according to local tradition still observed by older people. Greeks counteract the risk by spitting on the object or (more hygienically) just saying ftou-ftou-ftou. Cobalt charms, usually a flat, staring eye, ward away the bad luck.

Gift Giving—Gifts are appreciated, but avoid gifts that are merely opportunities to expose your company's logo. Flowers or a bottle of wine or spirit are a good gift to take to a home, if invited.

Conversation—Greeks are effusive and their conversation lively. Remember that Greeks are sensitive about Macedonia: They refer to the former Yugoslav republic of Macedonia as Skopje (after its capital), and use the name Macedonia exclusively for the region of Macedonia in northern Greece. Also know that Greeks have always objected to the succession of occupiers that have at one time or another intruded in Greek affairs.

Visitors may be startled by bold inquiries about their marital status, weight, ethnicity, salary and home value: This is typical talk in Athens, as are lengthy descriptions of physical ailments.

Personal Safety

The crime rate in Athens is relatively low. You can walk safely down almost any street, day or night. But take precautions and avoid strolling in the Omonia Square area as well as in districts north and west of the square late at night. If you are unfortunate enough to be riding a trolley or subway at rush hour, make sure your wallet or handbag is secure. Ladies should also avoid holding their handbags with the street-side hand as there have been incidents of bikers snatching them. Such petty theft is on the rise, unfortunately (as are instances of rape and disorderliness on the islands, generally carried out by drunken foreign visitors).

Do avoid the small Platia Vathis northwest of Omonia Place, which is a nightly meeting point for drug dealers. Male singles should avoid touts who invite them into a local bar close to Syntagma Square. The friendly man disappears after a few drinks and leaves the tourist with a hefty bill to pay.

Strikes and demonstrations occasionally choke downtown traffic and can get violent in the Syntgama Square area (in front of the parliament), with protestors throwing stones and molotovs, and the police responding with tear gas and batons. Although animosity toward U.S. foreign policy has run high, visitors from the U.S. haven't usually been harrassed. Current hostility is directed more toward the European Union, and the austerity measures it imposed on Greece to protect the euro from collapse.

The grungy student area of Exarhia has become the stage of ongoing confrontations between the police and students, since the police shooting of a 15-year-old boy there in December 2008. However, this does not cause a threat to visitors.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

Sanitation standards in Athens are generally similar to those in Western Europe. Medical facilities also are acceptable, though visitors should note that some medicines are now in short supply, as many international pharmaceutical companies have stopped delivering to Greece because of unpaid bills—bring an ample supply of any prescription drugs you may need. Tap water is safe to drink, but it's so heavily chlorinated that most travelers prefer bottled water. We suggest you stick to prepackaged drinks—but dispose of the plastic bottles properly. (Bottled water and other drinks are so popular that disposing of the containers has become a problem, particularly on the islands.)

Snacks sold by street vendors are generally safe to eat. If you're out and need a restroom, look for either a hotel, restaurant or cafe. The air in Athens can be very polluted and may aggravate existing respiratory ailments. Antihistamines are recommended for those with allergies. Remember to pack a comfortable pair of walking shoes. Sunscreen and a hat are a must May-October. To avoid sunstroke, drink plenty of water.

If you're in need of medical care, your hotel concierge should be able to contact a doctor for you. Hospitals and pharmacies stay open additional hours on a rotating basis (phone 1434 for information about which hospitals and pharmacies are on duty). Call the Tourist Police (phone 171), ambulance service (phone 166) or check the long-established weekly English-language newspaper, Athens News, published every Friday (http://www.athensnews.gr) to find out which are open after-hours and all night. Otherwise, your hotel reception should be able to supply a recommendation. Most pharmacies post a list in the window with the addresses of the closest pharmacies that are open after- hours. Newspaper kiosks often sell paracetamol (aspirin is virtually impossible to find now in Greece) and condoms.

Disabled Advisory

Visitors with physical limitations will find it difficult to get around Athens. Improvements such as wheelchair ramps have been built on street curbs and at some hotels, but at present, no special information or access maps are available for disabled travelers. Some information is available from the Tourist Police, who speak English (phone 171). Greek-speaking visitors may want to contact the Panhellenic Union of Paraplegic and Physically Challenged, 3-5 Dimitsanis, Moshato, Athens. Phone 210-483-2564. http://www.pasipka.gr.

The airport, metro stations and former Olympic venues are user-friendly, but overall, the city rates poorly for disabled access. The city is working to make improvements to sidewalks, taxis, buses, stores, pharmacies, restaurants, bars and clubs for visitors in wheelchairs.

A privately run Web site details tours and facilities currently available for wheelchair users. http://www.greecetravel.com/handicapped.

Facts Dos & Don'ts

Do dress conservatively when visiting monasteries or churches: No bare arms or legs.

Don't wear swimwear anywhere other than on the beach. The Greeks believe that this is where it belongs, and rightly so.

Do not buy "old" icons—they are usually fakes, and the export of real ones is strictly forbidden and will be punished.

Don't stare at people too much, as many Greeks still believe in the power of the evil eye.

Don't be surprised to see people smoking despite the nationwide smoking ban—Greeks have refused en masse to observe this law.

Don't book "Athens by Night" tours touted by hotels and travel agencies in Athens. They are never worth the money.

Do visit the museums at noontime in summer. Most have cool cafes and offer a welcome break from the oppressive heat.

Don't flush paper down the toilets. The Greek plumbing system has narrow drains, and visitors are requested to put waste paper in the plastic bins provided in all WCs. If you fail to do this, you risk blocked drains and flooded restrooms.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Canadian and U.S. citizens need passports but not visas for a stay of up to three months. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departing.

Population: 789,166.

Languages: Greek. Most Greeks speak at least one foreign language, and it's rare to find someone connected with tourism who doesn't speak basic English.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Greek Orthodox).

Time Zone: 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+2 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March through the last Sunday in October.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 30, country code; 210,city code;

Money

Currency Exchange

The Greek currency is the euro, in line with many other members of the European Union. The euro is still considered a stable currency, despite its recent and ongoing financial crisis.

ATMs, which tend to offer the most favorable exchange rates, are located throughout Athens. Syntagma Square has the highest concentration of banks (and ATMs) as well as exchange bureaus.

Taxes

All consumer purchase prices include value-added tax (called FPA, the Greek equivalent of VAT), currently 23% on almost all goods and services. This is also true for hotel prices, which include taxes and service charges. There is no hotel tax that is added on top of the quoted price.

Nonresidents of the European Union are eligible for a refund of the FPA on purchases larger than 120 euros in a single store on a single purchase. Fill out a simple form in the store and then get it export-validated at the customs office in the airport. Hundreds of shops in Athens display the "Tax-Free Shopping" sign and participate in the FPA refund.

Tipping All restaurant bills include any service charge. Additional tipping is not expected, but customers do sometimes leave up to 10% of the total bill if they feel like rewarding very good service. Tip a concierge or hotel receptionist about 3 euros (or more, depending on services rendered) at checkout. Guides expect at least 2 euros. Tip doormen 1 or 2 euros. Barbers and beauticians expect a 10% tip, and taxi drivers usually keep any small change due a passenger.

Weather

Athens enjoys relatively mild winters and lovely, temperate autumns and springs. The hot summers, although dry, can be oppressive at their heights. Average temperatures are 89 F/32 C. The meltemi, or summer winds, can help break the heat. Rainfall is heaviest in December and January, when temperatures average 55 F/13 C. The best times to visit are mid-May to mid-June and mid-September to October. The climate is pleasant, and sunshine is plentiful.

What to Wear

Dress for men and women is smart casual in summer. To blend in with local residents, women should wear skirts and slacks, and men should wear long pants. It's acceptable for women to wear shorts in the summer but not when visiting churches or monasteries. Women should wear conservative dresses or skirts (no slacks are permitted) and modest blouses (no cleavage, and backs should be covered up to

Typical business attire for men is a suit and tie, though smart trousers and an open-necked shirt are acceptable during the hottest months (June-August). Women should dress smartly; skirts and trousers are acceptable.

Communication

Telephone

All numbers throughout the country have 10 digits, including the former city code (210 for Athens). When dialing a phone number from outside Greece, dial your international access code, then Greece's country code (30), followed by the 10-digit number listed. Toll-free numbers may have only three or four digits, though.

Phone booths are becoming increasingly rare, and those that still function require a phone card, which come in a wide range of denominations and can be purchased at kiosks, certain hotels or any telephone office. The cards can be used for both local and long- distance calls. For long-distance calls, cards of 500 units are available.

North American tri-band cell phones work in Athens. Purchase a "pay-as-you-go" Greek SIM card for around 5 euros and upwards.

Internet Access Internet cafes can be found all over Athens, particularly around Syntagma Square and Omonia Square. Cost of access is usually about 2 euros per hour, although rates vary. There are fewer free Wi-Fi hot spots than in some other European countries, though visitors with laptops can pick up free Wi-Fi at hot spots on Syntagma Square, Kotzia Square and Thissio metro station. Most hotels provide wireless Internet access and, as is common everywhere, the more expensive hotels charge for it, whereas cheaper hotels offer free Wi-Fi.

Mail & Package Services

ELTA There are several local post offices in Athens. The main office is at Syntagma Square. Parcels and registered letters must be left open for inspection before being mailed at the post office. Stamps are available from the post office or the coin machines outside. (You may be able to buy stamps at your hotel's reception desk.) Don't bother phoning for information unless you are fluent in Greek. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-8 pm, Saturday 7:30 am-2 pm, Sunday 9 am-1:30 pm. Syntagma Square. Athens, Greece. http://www.elta.gr. Newspapers & Magazines

The International Herald Tribune includes Kathimerini, an English-language daily newspaper covering Greek affairs, as well as film reviews and extensive entertainment information (http://www.ekathimerini.com). The Athens News is another English-language weekly with superior arts and culture coverage, as well as classified advertisements, while the bi-monthly In Your Pocket Athens is a good source of information about sightseeing, dining and nightlife (http://www.inyourpocket.com/greece/athens). If you can read Greek, the best available entertainment guide is the weekly Athinorama (http://www.athinorama.gr).

Publications from North America and Western Europe are available at kiosks near Syntagma Square, and a variety of foreign publications can be found at kiosks in the Kolonaki area. The deluxe hotels also carry foreign-language newspapers.

The bimonthly magazine Odyssey addresses Greek expatriates more than visitors. http://www.odyssey.gr.

Transportation

Getting to Athens is no problem. Greece's capital is served by international flights, trains, ships and highways. The once notorious traffic has ebbed down lately, partly due to people cutting back on fuel costs.

Subway lines have alleviated some of the traffic in the city center, but driving can be quite chaotic for non-Greek visitors. The subway lines have also made public transportation an option for reaching some sites, though complicated bus routes still get the best of many travelers. Our advice is to walk to as many places as possible and hire a taxi when your feet get tired. (Be sure the meter is switched on only when

Page 34 of 38 Copyright ©2015 Northstar Travel Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. Courtesy of: Melody Moser Journeys Near and Far, LLC your journey begins.) No matter how you tackle Athens, a map of the city center is essential.

When walking, beware of cars, motorcycles and scooters. Don't expect any vehicle to stop for you at a crosswalk, and don't trust a car to stop at a red light. Because most major attractions are within 2.5 mi/4 km of Syntagma Square, a cool, early-morning walk between the sights can be quite pleasant. You'll probably want to return by taxi, though, especially during the summer months.

Air

The Athens International Airport (ATH), formally named the Eleftherios Venizelos Athens International Airport, is in Spata, 16 mi/25 km northeast of downtown Athens. Phone 210-353-0000. http://www.aia.gr.

Gleaming marble corridors contain numerous eating places and shops, ranging from Accessorize to Bulgari. ATMs and currency exchanges are dotted throughout the airport. The Hellenic Post Office and a pharmacy are on the Arrivals level.

A free museum exhibits nearly 200 archaeological finds at Departures Level/Entrance 3. Families appreciate the Children's Creative Entertainment Area next to Gates B1-2 (open 9 am-9 pm). Phone 210-353-2414.

Connecting Transportation

Best way:

The metro is the best option. Metro Line 3 runs between the airport and Syntagma in the city center. The service operates every 30 minutes 5:38 am-11:04 pm (from Syntagma), 6:33 am-11:33 pm (from airport), and tickets cost 8 euros (or 14 euros for two people). http://www.stasy.gr.

Other options:

Take a taxi. There's a legal pre-set flat fare from Athens airport to Athens city center. The flat fare includes tax, luggage fees and other surcharges. It's currently set at 35 euros (5 am-midnight) or 50 euros (midnight-5 am). During the day, the meter should be set for a single tariff rate, rather than the double that's charged after midnight or for out-of-town destinations. Make sure you see a "1" in the corner of the meter, rather than a "2." Athenian taxi drivers are noted for trying to fleece new arrivals, so if your fare is much more than it ought to be, don't be afraid to question it or ask your hotel to help resolve any dispute.

A bus is also a good less expensive option if you don't have too much luggage and if your hotel is close to one of the stops. The public express bus (No. X95) runs 24 hours a day, departing the airport for Syntagma Square every 10-15 minutes during the day, and every 20-30 minutes after 9:20 pm. Another express bus (No. X96) goes to Piraeus, stopping en route in the southern coastal suburbs of Athens (Voula, Glyfada, Alimos, Faliro).

The standard fare is 5 euros one-way (the same ticket is good for unlimited travel on all public transportation within Athens that same day). Purchase tickets at a metro station, public transport ticket kiosk or onboard (only with correct change). The bus stops are between airport exits 4 and 5 at the lower (Arrivals) level. http://www.oasa.gr.

Limousines have a separate stand at the airport outside the Arrivals level between exits 3 and 4. Negotiate prices before you take one. Limousines can be booked and prices confirmed through local firms such as Central VIP Services (25 Ethnarchou Makariou St., Argiroupoli, Athens; phone 210-924-9500; http://www.centralvip.gr). Airport transfers start at about 120 euros one-way. Full-day rates start at about 350 euros for eight hours, or 450 euros for 24 hours.

Some of the deluxe hotels in the city may offer free shuttle service from the airport. Check with your hotel to see if it operates an airport courtesy van.

Major rental car agencies have branches at the airport.

Bus Coaches handle the bulk of long-distance public transport overland in Greece, as the geography discourages rail links. KTEL is a network of local operators.

KTEL Terminal A, Kifissou Bus Station The country's KTEL buses, traveling to and from the Peloponnese, western Greece and the Ionian Islands, arrive there. Terminal A is at 100 Kifissou St.. Athens, Greece.

KTEL Terminal B, Liossion Bus Station Serves buses to and from parts of northern Greece, eastern Greece and Evia Island. Terminal B is at 260 Liossion St.. Athens, Greece. Car Traffic can get quite confusing in Athens, and parking anywhere in the city is difficult, so we don't recommend driving. Additionally, motor vehicles have been banned in some parts of downtown Athens. A 1-sq-mi/2.6-sq-km area, in the triangle formed by the main shopping arteries of Stadiou, Athinas and Ermou, is traffic-free. The legal driving age in Greece is 18, and most car rental companies require drivers to be at least 21 years old.

Ferry

Public ferries leave regularly from Piraeus to the Greek islands. You can buy tickets from travel agents in Athens or from ticket offices near the docks in Piraeus. If you are taking a long trip in a large boat, we recommend buying first-class tickets. Twin-hulled hovercrafts and hydrofoils operate between Piraeus and Mykonos, Hydra, Spetses, Poros and other islands. Travel time is about half that of the ferry, but the tickets also are more expensive, and these high-speed boats are far more likely than ferries to be cancelled due to rough sea conditions. Visitors are advised to wear long trousers and carry a light jacket with them during their stay onboard due to air-conditioning set at annoyingly low temperatures.

For information regarding ships leaving Piraeus and Rafina (Athens' second port, which lies about a 40-minute drive east of the city center) on domestic routes phone 14541.

Major passenger shipping companies include ANEK (http://www.anek.gr), Blue Star (http://www.bluestarferries.com), Hellenic Mediterranean Lines (http://www.hmlferry.com), Hellenic Seaways (http://www.hellenicseaways.gr), Minoan Lines (http://www.minoan.gr) and Superfast (http://www.superfast.com).

You can compare prices and timetables online, as well as book tickets, at http://www.greekferries.gr.

Public Transportation

Athens' public transportation system, run by the Athens Urban Transport Organization (http://www.oasa.gr), was once one of the worst in Europe but has improved with the addition of more subway lines and air-conditioned buses. The network is still confusing for many visitors, but it reaches all areas of the city. The ISAP (Athens-Piraeus Electric Rail; http://www.stasy.gr), which runs from Piraeus to Kiffissia via the city center, has linked up to become Line 1 of the new Athens metro system.

An ordinary single ticket for use on all Athenian public transportation systems (bus, metro, trolleys and trams) for up to 90 minutes costs 1.40 euros.

Buses For most of the day, the blue buses are absolutely packed. Drivers rarely speak English. Purchase a ticket before the trip and validate it in the orange machine onboard. A ticket for one single journey, priced at 1.20 euros, is available at special blue booths, near blue bus stops and at kiosks throughout the city. (You may prefer the 1.40 euro ticket valid for multiple rides on all public transportation, excluding airport, for 90 minutes). You must validate your ticket in a machine on board. Routes, fares and timetables are available on the Web site, but the English pages are incomplete. Phone 185. http://www.oasa.gr. Athens, Greece.

Subways The subway system—called Attiko Metro—now has three lines (including the ISAP train to Piraeus now known as Line 1 or green line), and further expansions are planned. The red line (No. 2) connects the suburb of Elliniko in the southeast with Anthoupoli in the northwest. The blue line (No. 3) runs from Agia Marina, passing through Kerameikos, in the popular nightlife district of Gazi, and Monastiraki, in the Plaka, to Doukissis Plakentias, in the eastern part of the city with some, but not all, trains continuing all the way to the airport in Spata. The old green line (No. 1) still runs between northern Kifissia and the port of Piraeus. Maps are available at stations. Trains run every four minutes during rush hour and every 10 minutes the rest of the day. Tickets must be purchased before entering the subway and punched in the orange machines before entering the train platform. Inspectors sometimes enter trains, and fines are issued for passengers riding without properly validated tickets. If you forget to stamp before boarding, write the time and date on your ticket—and hope for the best. The green line operates 5 am-1 am; the red and blue lines 5:30 am-12:20 am. The red and blue lines work extended hours till 2:20 am on Friday and Saturday nights. Tickets cost 1.40 euro and are valid for multiple rides within 90 minutes on all public transportation (excluding airport). Children age 6 and younger ride free. . Athens, Greece. Phone 214-414-6400. http://www.stasy.gr.

Trams Line 1 runs from Syntagma Square in the city center to the seaside resort of Glyfada and further on to Voula, and Line 2 runs along the coast to Neo Faliro (close to Piraeus). A ticket for one single journey, priced at 1.20 euros, is available at kiosks or on board. You must validate your ticket in a machine on board. . Athens, Greece. Phone 214-414-6400 for information. http://www.stasy.gr.

Trolleys The purple-and-yellow trolleys travel shorter distances than the buses but use the same ticket system. Tickets are available at special blue booths, near bus stops or at kiosks throughout the city. Routes connect with the metro stops. Schedules are hard to come by. A ticket for one single journey, priced at 1.20 euros, is available at kiosks or on board. You must validate your ticket in a machine on board. . Athens, Greece. Phone 185. http://www.oasa.gr. Ship Cruise ships plying the Mediterranean frequently stop at Piraeus, the port of Athens. You can take the green subway line (Line 1) from the port to downtown Athens. Taxis also are available and generally charge about 9 euros-11 euros (12 euros-17 euros at night), depending on traffic conditions and amount of luggage.

Taxi

Licensed Athens city cabs are yellow in color. Like all Greek taxis, they are privately owned and cheap compared with those in Western Europe. However, most drivers do not speak English and may (apparently) not have a firm grasp of city geography, a map or even the wherewithal to read yours. There are three ways to catch a cab: Flag one down on the street, wait for one outside a major hotel or make a reservation. Ask at your hotel what the cost of a taxi ride to your destination should be—it's not unusual for visitors to be overcharged. Note that the meter should be running throughout your journey, and during the day should show tariff number "1." Tariff 2 is for night-time travel and costs much more.

Passengers can share a flagged cab, but unless they are picked up together and heading to the same destination, each will be charged the full fare. Expect to pay a small luggage surcharge and a late-night surcharge if you are riding midnight-5 am. The minimum fee is 3.16 euros. Expect tiny additional tariffs to the airport, ports, bus and train stations.

Many drivers belong to a radio-controlled cooperative and will accept reservations for early-morning or late-night fares. A small fee is charged for this service. Nevertheless, if arriving on time is critical, paying the surcharge for a radio taxi is a good idea.

Address complaints to the tourist police (phone 171). Record the driver's license number. Disputes are frequent on the airport run: Don't hesitate to argue if you're overcharged once you're at the terminal. Wave the rate card (which legally must be displayed) and haggle until an agreement is reached.

Train

Should you need to travel further afield, the Athens suburbs and surrounding area are connected to the city by local trains known as Proastikos. The fare is the same as on other Athens city transportation: 1.40 euros. Tickets must be validated in a machine on the platform before boarding the train. Athens used to have two train stations, both located off Theodorou Deligianni Street, near Omonia Square, but now only one, Larissis Rail Station, is operational. It is also referred to as Athens Central Station, and it is served by the metro (red line).

Several railway services to other parts of the Greek mainland have been suspended or services cut back because of the Greek financial crisis, and all international trains have been suspended. Intercity Express is an express train that travels north to Thessaloniki, and west to Corinth (but no longer all the way to Patras or Olympia). Trains are clean, efficient and air-conditioned, but are almost always slower than motor coaches. First-class (proti thesi) and second-class (thefteri thesi) options are available. Reserving a seat is always wise. A hot meal can be purchased in first class (on the line between Athens and Thessaloniki), and there are snack bars on the train.

Tourist cards permit unlimited first-class travel for three or five days (within one month). Senior discounts are also available. For information or a schedule, contact the Hellenic Railways (OSE). 6 Sina St. (between Syntagma and Omonia Square), Athens. Phone 1110. http://www.trainose.gr.

For More Information

Additional Reading

Eurydice Street: A Place in Athens by Sofka Zinovieff.

Lords of the Sea: The Triumph and Tragedy of Ancient Athens by John R. Hale.

Tourist Offices

Athens Tourist Information Center (National Tourist Organization of Greece, GNTO) The main administration office is located in a residential neighborhood at 24 Tsoha St. Phone 210-870-7000. More useful to visitors is the purpose-built walk-in information center at Dionysiou Areopagitou Street 18-20 (opposite the Acropolis Museum) where you can obtain maps and brochures and useful advice and information. Tourist information is also available at http://www.visitgreece.gr. The walk-in information center is open Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-4 pm. Phone 210- 210-331-0392 and 210-331-0716. Note that the GNTO office at the airport has ceased to function. Another useful source of information is the website http://www.breathtakingathens.com set up by the Athens Tourism & Economic Development Agency. Athens, Greece.

ELPA A good source of tourist information is the English-speaking Hellenic Auto Club (ELPA). The Web site is in Greek only. 395 Messoghion Ave., Agia Paraskevi. Athens, Greece. Toll-free 10-400 for an emergency breakdown (24-hours). http://www.elpa.gr.

Tourist Police The best bet for tourist information, especially because the officers speak English and French. The Tourist Police can be reached by phone 24 hours a day by dialing 171. Athens, Greece.