Greece Understand & Survival (Chapter)

Edition 10th Edition, March 2012 Pages 86 PDF Page Range 709-794

Coverage includes: Understand Greece, Greece Today, History - from early days to the 21st century, Ancient Greek Culture: Mythology, The Ancient Pantheon, The Golden Age of Drama, Philosophy, Sculpture and The Oracle of Delphi, The Greek Way of Life: Social & Family Life, The Greek Character, Civil Society, The New Greeks, and Faith & Identity, Architecture: Minoan Magnificence, Mycenaean Engineering, Classic Compositions, Hellenistic Citizens, Byzantine Zeal, Frankish Keeps & Venetian Strongholds, Ottoman Offerings, Neoclassical Splendour and Modern Ideas, Greek Cuisine: The Greek Kitchen, Mayirefta, Greek Grills, Fish & Seafood, Greek Salad, Regional Cuisine, Sweet Treats, Festive Food, Vegetarian- Friendly and Eating with Kids, Music & Dance: Traditional Folk Music, Rembetika, Laïka & Entehna, Contemporary & Pop Music, and Greek Dance, Art & Literature: Modern Greek Art, Modern Greek Literature and Contemporary Writers, Nature & Wildlife: Experiencing the Outdoors, Greek Geography, Wildflowers, Forests and Watching for Wildlife, Survival Guide, Directory, Transport, Language and Glossary.

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GREECE TODAY ...... 710 The Greek psyche remains spirited and passionate but is laced with anxiety as the government responds to an ailing economy and religious scandal.

HISTORY ...... 712 Greece’s cultural infl uence, physical prowess and athleticism of mind have left deep historical footprints. Follow them through the ages.

ANCIENT GREEK CULTURE ...... 733 Ancient Greece is the grandfather of philosophy, the keeper of classical sculpture and the wellspring of stories and myths.

THE GREEK WAY OF LIFE ...... 738 Independent yet family-oriented, overeducated yet under- employed, resilient yet tested by cultural, social and political crises – the Greek way of life is rife with paradoxes.

ARCHITECTURE ...... 745 Discover Greece’s infl uence on architecture around the globe along with where to see the best preserved temples and ruins.

GREEK CUISINE ...... 750 Contemporary chefs add tasty twists to traditional home cooking.

MUSIC & DANCE...... 755 Spirited, high-kicking laps around the dance fl oor plus club music, jazz, rock and rap – Greek-style.

ART & LITERATURE ...... 759 Read all about Greece’s contemporary page-turners and thought-provoking modern art scene.

NATURE & WILDLIFE ...... 762 With mountainous interiors tumbling down to unending ribbons of coastline, the great Greek outdoors off ers everything from birds to turtles and orchids to oregano.

population per sq km 710 GREECE USA UK

≈ 30 people

Greece Today

S pirit of Rebellion Personal freedom and democratic rights are sacrosanct to Greeks, and a residual mistrust of authority and disrespect of the state is integral to the national psyche. This spirited characteristic has recently been evi- dent, with many Greeks resisting Prime Minister George Papandreou’s economic reforms to help curb Greece’s soaring national debt. In June 2011, as the world watched to see whether Mr Papandreou could achieve a majority vote in parliament for his austerity measures and the next EU/IMF bailout, the streets of Athens were red with riot. The vote went through and the rescue package for the ailing economy was put in motion. The drama is far from over though, as the cur- rent leadership navigates between incremental recovery and further recession. Population: 10.7 The Winds of Change million Greeks are steadily increasing their awareness of the issues regarding Percentage of local environmental degradation – cue recycling and a cap on sprawling women: 50% tourist developments. Life expectancy: Another hot potato of debate is immigration, with an infl ux of 80 years people from Afghanistan, Iraq, Africa and Albania fl ooding into the Inhabitants country, despite Greece having the lowest acceptance rate of any EU per sq km: 82 country for asylum requests. Not surprisingly these new arrivals disap- Tourists: 15 million pear as ‘illegals’ into the fringes of Greek society. T he Church Seismic faults have begun appearing in the once unblemished image of the Greek Orthodox Church after a number of scandalous stories – from sexual indecency to narcotics – emerged in recent times. However,

Dos & Dont’s Essential Reads » Do cover your arms and legs » The ‘Odyssey’ (8th century » The Magus (1966; John when visiting a church. BC; Homer) Plagued by Fowles) Creepy mind games set » Do ensure your holiday Poseidon, Odysseus struggles to on fictional island Phraxos. insurance covers you for moped return home to Ithaca. » Falling For Icarus: A Journey accidents. » Zorba the Greek (1946; Nikos among the Cretans (2004; » Don’t pick up any loose stones Kazantzakis) A spiritual bible to Rory MacLean) A travel writer at archaeological sites. many; one man’s unquenchable fulfills his ambition to build his lust for life. own plane in the land of Icarus. belief systems 711 (% of population) if Greece were 100 people

98 0.7 Other

1.3 93 would be Greek 7 would be other Greek Orthodox Muslim

the church is still a key element of Greek life even taking into account the drop off in the younger generation’s footfalls to the local house of worship. Nat ional Psyche Greeks are passionate, loyal and fi ery. Issues are debated with strong GDP: €232 billion will in the local kafeneio, and rather than living to work, Greek people (US$318 billion) work to live, with an emphasis on fun and shared company rather than Per capita slaving all hours in an offi ce. income: €22,210 In 2011 the average Athenian saw their wage severely cut, some say (US$29,600) as much as 15%, while living costs were soaring. All this with a rising Inflation: 1.57% rate of around 16% unemployment, with one in four public-sector jobs Unemployment: planned to be shelled to cut the defi cit. No surprise then that the Greek 16.2% psyche has shifted from relaxed to anxious, ‘A state,’ one Athenian told us, External debt: ‘that we’re just not used to.’ €389 billion Greeks pride themselves on their fi lotimo (dignity and sense of (US$532 billion) honour) and their fi loxenia (hospitality). Despite their current fi scal problems, the average Greek will still lavish you with free drinks, fresh cake from their kitchen, and the warmth they have always been famous for. Curious by nature, nothing is off limits for conversation, and you may fi nd yourself quizzed as to why you haven’t got children, why you’re not married and how much you earn. Greek society remains dominated by ‘the family’, and while many men may appear soaked with machismo, the matriarchal domestic model is still very much a commonplace, with women subtly pulling the strings in the background.

Top Films » 300 (2007) Testosterone- » Guns of Navarone (1961) » Captain Corelli’s Mandolin fuelled retelling of the Compelling boys-own thriller, (2001) Lavish retelling of Louis Spartans’ epic stand (Battle of Allied soldiers enter Nazi- de Bernières’ novel, awash with Thermopylae, 480 BC) against occupied Greece. romance in occupied Greece. the might of the Persian army. » Shirley Valentine (1989) » Mamma Mia (2008) The Classic Greek island romance on island of Skopelos shines to the Mykonos. soundtrack of Abba. 712

History In ancient and modern times, Greece has been doomed or blessed with its position on the map – a doorstep between Asia Minor and Europe – Greek is Europe’s and often tied to the rising and waning fortunes of its neighbours. In the oldest written language, second 5th century BC Greece was almost devoured by the unstoppable spread only to Chinese of the Persian Empire, only reversed by Alexander. Later still the Roman in the world. It is Empire overwhelmed old Hellas, but again the nation revived once more traceable under the Byzantine Empire. back to the Greece’s ability to make swift travel across water to distant lands con- Linear B script of the Minoans and tributed to its signifi cant expansion of the country’s mental and geopo- Mycenaeans. For litical horizons. In the process the Greeks were to learn much from the more on Linear B Phoenicians, Egyptians, Syrians and Hebrews. The genius of the ancient script, try www Greeks was their ability to adapt elements of other cultures’ architecture .ancientscripts and craft, then take it to new heights, be it the alphabet from the Phoeni- .com/linearb .html. cians, or the unique beauty of their lifelike sculptures, enhancing upon the statues of Egypt (see also p 736) . Even the Romans were in awe of the Greeks’ culture, their physical prowess and mental athleticism. But where did it all start? Early Days The discovery of a Neanderthal skull in a cave on the Halkidiki penin- sula of Macedonia confi rmed the presence of humans in Greece 700,000 The web portal www.ancient years ago. People from the Palaeolithic times (around 6500 BC) left bones greece.com is and tools in the Pindos Mountains, while pastoral communities emerged great for all during neolithic times (7000–3000 BC), primarily in the fertile region things ancient that is now Thessaly. Agriculturally sophisticated, they grew crops, bred and Greek. sheep and goats, and used clay to produce pots, vases and stylised repre- sentations of idols as fi gures of worship. By 3000 BC settlements had developed into streets, squares and mud-brick houses. Adding to this momentum, Indo-European migrants

7000–3000 3000–1100 2000 BC BC BC For 4000 years the The discovery of Minoan civilisation early inhabitants of blending copper and tin reaches its peak in the Greek peninsula into a strong alloy gives Crete: architectural live a simple agrarian rise to the Bronze Age. advances lead to life, growing crops Trade gains traction; the fi rst palaces in and herding animals. increased prosperity Knossos, Phaestos, Communities with sees the birth of the Malia and Zakros, housing and planned Cycladic, Minoan while pottery-making streets begin to appear and Mycenaean improves and Crete’s by around 3000 BC. civilisations. fi rst script emerges. HISTORY ARTISTIC & CULTURAL LEGACIES 713

Middle and Late and Late periods: Early periods: Early Scholars Scholars divide (1500–1100 BC). (1500–1100 the Cycladic civi- the Cycladic (2000–1500 BC) BC) (2000–1500 lisation into three three into lisation (3000–2000 BC), BC), (3000–2000 ironwork in archi- in ironwork striking geometric geometric striking The Dorians herald designs on pottery. tecture, and develop

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from fi b father d p t accel e ro l rst built p p fi ne arts ne fi ornaments, island com l the volcanic g ressive legac y ocumente and ste p d and Mycenae. ( where Heracles ) ( 1400 BC Mycenaean. meta from there there from d The The Mycenaeans d d s the invading force s the invading Museum in Athens Museum ons, now ru l ourishes; ourishes; p fl p rst advanced civilisa rst advanced tors are also renowned tors are also fi gods replace worship worship replace gods p cities such as Kydonia fall into decline. Greek into fall (Hania) and Polyrrinia. Polyrrinia. and (Hania) Weapons manufacture and farmin of the Motherof Goddess. colonise Crete, building building Crete, colonise s. The interiors feature erha ery an ogica g Tiryns e’s e’s , l p ll ll p s eak between 1500 and 1200 eak between lex of Knossos was lex of Knossos p p shin life. Minoan an Minoan th in wea fi , l jewe BC on hi ic d of the statuettes from Parian mar from Parian of the statuettes p d transactions were g acie (marble statues), carved (marble statues), the during Archaeo l h their use of bronze the Minoans h their use of bronze the a l i u l ne g g oi fi d were Euro s ened to trigger demise of this great the e ur s fi o ronze into Greece an Greece into ronze n s, re k b pp their wea an lendid com k is a predominant The The authoritarian d o p 1500–1200 1500–1200 Mycenaean culture culture Mycenaean n usurps much of the n sculgurines. Cycladic Cretan and Cycladic Cycladic and Cretan fi y forti feature of Mycenaean mas commercia l from the Peloponnese Mi ation cultures. Goldsmithing Goldsmithing cultures. d ld isations: Cyc isations: s l , which reached its whose reach extended and across Asia Minor ) a form of Greek language 500 years older than the a form of Greek language 500 years older than ,

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ivilisatio . cent go cent bl fi f the Minoan civilisation coincided with the rise of M f the Minoan aces heavi a & ivilisation . l ressive, life-sized ressive, life-sized C o k a p ? the processing of processing the C p d ings who measure eriod k p 1600–1100 BC 1600–1100 uce edly by Icarus’ father, Daedalus), its frescoes, ventilation shafts, Daedalus), its frescoes, ventilation father, edly by Icarus’ cenae ( est of which are in the Nationa d tion in Thira, Santorini in 1500 BC? Or y g osing ressive frescoes, an Cycladic civilisation was a cluster of was a cluster of Cycladic civilisation b cladic cladic Minoan civilisation.Minoan p rth Africa acy is the carvin of this civilisation e explosion, causing a p p ncient Civili The jury what ha is out on Mediterranean-wide Mediterranean-wide suggest contributed to the destruction of arrior Santorini erupts with g rchaic le – the famous Cycladic le – the famous tsunami that scholars scholars that tsunami ion. Around 1900 BC the s ion. Around 1900 BC the alle hree remar he ablets in Linear B or their im a cataclysmic volcanic 1700–1550 BC 1700–1550 were able to build great sea vessels establishing a formidable were able to build great is their magni im BC with mainland city-states like Corinth like BC with mainland city-states t im t enae W Mycenaean Civilisatio Mycenaean The decline No ( life. Throueration from neolithic Minoan Minoan of Crete ruler the mythical after King Minos, Named t b f A Cy Th a sophisticated artisticmunities with The temperament. most striking le Artistic A intro t sailors and traders eru was forced to re civilisation. Was it the tsunami and ash fallout caused b it the tsunami and ash civilisation. Was sewerageand ambitious designs marking an abru systems Ionic Greek used by Homer). The Mycenaean’s most im The Mycenaean’s Greek used by Homer). Ionic of M of the Minotaur IMAGEBROKER ©

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714 HISTORY ARTISTIC & CULTURAL LEGACIES HISTORY ARTISTIC & CULTURAL LEGACIES 715 490 490 BC at Marathon. at domains. Seeking Athens invokes the revenge, the Persian Persian the revenge, king Darius sends an ire of the Persians by

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etween the haves e Solon, a ruling th. A ll tness, l b fi real democracy. real ld a in e in s of aristocrats when d d e eges an human and political l aristocrat in Athens, Athens, in aristocrat ll being the rights – is credited as as credited is – rights introduces rules of fair radical rule-changing – play to his citizenry. His ired to in most of today’s rst major defeat of the Spartans in open the Spartans of major defeat rst rivi on wea , imaginatively based on the battle of of on the battle based imaginatively , fi p p d four cou

ll d ointed chief magistrate in 594 300 ase in the han b on cance l pp ll lm fi ce, a ce, ffi asses 200 years. 200 inherite l d e for o ishe bl l strategy So Having Having originated around 1000 BC in o k igi b l 700–500 BC dominate for around efuse the mounting tensions the Peloponnese, the d history. Politically and Spartans come to play play to come Spartans militarily, the Spartans a decisive role in Greek ishing four c on a l bl y es. cation. Gold and silver coins, in an antimercenary measure to throttle any any throttle to measure in an antimercenary coins, Gold and silver cation. aw, So aw, fi i asses were e l ate was to l et d cing martial supremacy, marching into battle in a disciplined, lock-stepped lock-stepped in a disciplined, battle into marching supremacy, cing martial y i fi b ower, esta ower,

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man l ua is q Independent city- The Spartans were held in mythic awe by their fellow Greeks for their ferocious, ferocious, their for Greeks their fellow by awe in mythic held were Spartans The Phoenician script. c rst two have-nots. In a high-ris In have-nots. fi by force. The Greek itica . H emocrac the Dorians develop. l d in the Archaic Age as Maybe you saw the gory but brilliant but gory the saw you Maybe THE SPARTANS THE Thermopylae in 480 BC; one of the most talked about battles in history. Three hundred hundred Three in history. about battles talked most the of BC; one in 480 Thermopylae thou- several numbered force (whose army Persian an entire held soldiers Spartan elite three For Lamia). today’s (near Thermopylae of gates’) (‘hot the pass at at bay sand) and unbridgeable spears their deadly upon fell soldiers Persian of upon wave wave days, raised Ones such bravery? display could soldiers kind of What formation. tortoise-shell Sparta. of regime in the war-mongering/honour-based self-sacri The shield or on it’. with your ‘return the motto dying) by often living (and very phalanx, de by was male Spartan every ideology, harsh of product began his training almost from birth. Poor recruits were weeded out early – a citizens’ – a citizens’ out early weeded were recruits Poor birth. from almost his training began left then be would (they muster pass did not babies decided which newborn committee en- seven, of the age from surviving children, The die). Mountains to Taÿgetos on the physical supreme foster to training of years 13 dured ised beating ‘competitions’ to toughen them up. Sparta, fearing no one, was without city without city was no one, fearing Sparta, them up. toughen to ‘competitions’ beating ised forti or walls their power. of the collapse beginning of the and marked battle sign of material greed, were corrupted with lead to render them useless for trade with trade for them useless render to with lead corrupted were greed, material sign of inter- with outsiders: about interactions be said could The same merchants. passing who the Athenians, the particularly equally forbidden, was tribes with other marriage hand, on the other women Spartan lavish. and too corrupt morally considered Spartans at the time. in Greece else than anywhere and respect equality with more accorded were Pelopon- – along with the exhausting character xenophobic inward, Sparta’s But it was this master of weakening the decline and genetic led to – that ultimately Wars nesian the BC was in 371 Leuctra The Battle of race. 800–650 BC estern soc Aristocrats rule these thens’ greatest reformist, Solon, was a C rint of the ideological democratic system as o hose who’d become enslaved because of them. Declaring all free Atheni because of them. Declaring all become enslaved hose who’d he states begin to emerge occasionally take power power take occasionally alphabet emerges from from emerges alphabet ministates while tyrants while ministates p W t ans e p t The of Athens was sti seafaring city-state A D B and vote on legislation. Solon’s reforms have become regarded as a blue reforms have and vote on legislation. Solon’s an

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p e era sti ringing it into con ut was p ture of the city’s ture of the city’s l e p the new club. er its wing, Athens b b p ire eror Darius s dides d p y So p called the Delian called the d olis, rea building a de facto onies of Asia Minor s onies of Asia Minor League. Many city- l p establish a political and military alliance y un to the Pe it at th l etermine tor Pheidias to create the enduring marble tor Pheidias to create the a surge in menta empire, the Athenians d d states and islands join Seeking security while d p d es an ansion, e

s l Sea; and Persia’s im Sea; and Persia’s le of ZeusOlym at tors develo d p d i k p p y t l p onnesian League. A series of s ac p l – and Thuc hanes who ins o y l zenith after the m p erity an erity on it, including the majestic Parthenon, and else Parthenon, on it, including the majestic uent s ues p p q aw a renaissance in cultural creativity. Literature and Literature in cultural a renaissance creativity. aw otencyof this ferti ieces and bronze casts, and it was Pericles who com and it was Pericles ieces and bronze casts, Attica in 490 BC, Attica Pe s remaine q p se us, Euri p d d d l ros nally over. nally b fi an War an 479 479 BC p Aristo

les u i l d p t an l id growth as a major city-state also meant heavy reliance on also meant heavy id growth as a major city-state ion in the Persian co ion in the Persian of Plataea under under Plataea of eriod that scul ay the ay p ll s for further ex reached it their defeat at the the at defeat their p estroy the city. Persian em Persian estroy the city. itica d the Spartan leader orts from the B army of Mardonius Mardonius of army s e hands of Xerxes by l ominate d d b p o losion in form and light, Greece’s Goldenthe 6th Age, from to light, Greece’s in form and losion d Wars are The Greeks pay back at the decisive Battle decisive the at ies, an smashing the Persian p p d s of Aeschy e Battle of Marathon in 490 BC of Marathon e Battle Pausanias. The Persian im then k ied by Persia. Many Aegean and Ionian city-states swore an allegiance city-states Aegean and Ionian Many ied by Persia. h d With the Aegean Sea safe When Pericles became leader of Athens in 461 BC became When Pericles A arta- ies. To p

rovocations su rive to p d ff S trage the Delian League, a naval alliance formed to liberate city-states still oc alliance formed to liberate city-states the Delian League, a naval Classical su Athens’ threatened strategic coastal trade routes across Asia Minor. for a re discussed today were debated by these great minds. And that’s not for not discussed great minds. And that’s were debated by these today style for marble style friezes of the Parthenon and the scul friezes of the Parthenon wor treasuryDelos to the Acro from d ing the revo reache sian army p & Con War The Pers Athens’ ra where, including the Tem sculmissioned the Athenian cu by its ing it fantastic wealth unrivalled e – widely regarded historians Herodotus the journalistic blogs of getting of histor as the father An ex force of 10,000 outmanoeuvre grander tem foo turning it into something of an em drama blossomed as many city-states enjoyed increased economic re- economic increased enjoyed city-states as many blossomed drama form, 4th BC, centuries to Athens, making an annual contribution to the treasuryto Athens, making an annual of shi at t westwar

by 480 480 BC threat. written. written by by written Darius’ son and heir events ever ever events are routed at sea o forces sent to crush crush to sent forces Salamis (Salamina). Salamis at Thermopylae and thon. The enormous The Histories, of Athens Athens of and chronicles the chronicles city-states and city-states Persian Fire, Persian ring city-states ring city-states Tom Holland, is Holland, Tom pull together to to pull together Xerxes seeks revenge revenge seeks Xerxes then sack Athens, but 5th century BC, BC, 5th century Sparta and how and how Sparta is considered to to is considered tive of historical historical of tive face the Persian the Persian face Persia. The work Persia. a compelling ac- a compelling Herodotus Herodotus in the for the defeat at Mara- count of the war- of count conflicts between between conflicts be the first narra- be the first the ancient Greek the ancient Greek they had to finally finally had to they Greece defeat Leonidas Leonidas defeat Greece

716 HISTORY WAR & CONQUEST HISTORY WAR & CONQUEST 717 by IF The In dominance. Sparta. Thucydides Thucydides and death. The Trial of The Trial Athens and Athens Socrates Peloponnesian Peloponnesian cal narrative of of narrative cal breaks out over ing the philoso- Stone Stone frames in a contemporary a contemporary War, the quarrels and the quarrels warfare between between warfare events surround- events Plato’s version of of version Plato’s investigative light investigative sets out a histori- sets pher Socrates’ life life pher Socrates’ the distant colony of Sicily, ending an Sparta and Athens Athens and Sparta Athenian siege and and siege Athenian Spartans break the 413–404 BC

eight-year truce. The . Sparta assumes total ------) y y a a d A second war between hi, ar ar ee ing fl p p p reed k was ing ere artan g k ff ll ed the p i resent k le to f Plataea pp (p ay Lamia,ay p while the o enec artan ue, a sea. Some , d l s, fought to g uest to con uest p d eo p 431–421 BC q city, city, ( ott p s tra . d arge extent on b an ) p y on its navy to y on its navy l e l d havoc in 386. d the the resent- , with the strateg 715 while the Persians an d p , Kydonia against d aign, however, was aign, however, l p against Gortyna, against Lyttos, Phaestos Phaestos Lyttos, to a p es. TheS y l d earthquake wreaks wreaks earthquake b artan troo 431–386 431–386 BC eet e Apollonia and Itanos and Apollonia fl against Ierapitna. An p orted Corcyra d others, including Del others, onnese. Athens su ting to re ( strife: Knossos against Crete also sees internal internal sees also Crete p p pp en artans, ae, near o olitical dominance over the l l p p onnesian War onnesian War y erialism threatened S p Salamis, where the smaller, e s, o ff p p p d ll invasion invasion artans on land, so it abandoned d artan comman p men from every men from em nation of his s er, Themistoc er, p d d ower p ea e out in the overcrow ing the Pe inate rst Pelo l er S fi k d embargoed. d d a onnesian allies fell back on their second onnesian allies fell back ro see also The S k p ( b ass at Thermo 431–21 431–21 BC Greece from the north. Greece from This oc l its mighty wa its mighty p bl d The military might of and the Peloponnese alliance with Corcyra. Corcyra. with alliance ower struggle was to last almost 30 years. y ague blown war of attrition, navy un navy clout of Athens over an . This joint alliance, the Hellenic Lea . This the Hellenic joint alliance, p b with Athens barricaded Athens with Sparta runs afoul of the commercial and artistic and commercial The spat becomes a full- ) d pl ehin arta, who maintained on Athens. Themistocles ordered his artans, whose b ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © p in 485 BC, his son Xerxes resume son Xerxes his 485 BC, in p iant Athenian iant Athenian p d arta ll s in the narrow waters o p a massive, coor a massive, ie ri p rew d d b d onnesian War onnesian an earthen wall across the Isthmus of Corinth an earthen the Isthmus wall across , army an army the S p d d the army to the to the army d from where they turned to attack the Greeks. The they from where Greeks re to attack turned assage into centra y the in a row with Corinth, its mother city. Corinth called on S in a row with Corinth, its mother city. , with ine ass – until a traitor showed the Persians another way over the another way traitor showed the Persians ass – until a onnesian League a military was essentially coalition governed e ) artans and their Pelo an p aunche l b b d p l p

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lp d uring the siege; d as e d and the men to sea with the Athenian naval the Athenian naval and the men to sea with d onnesian region. Athens’ growing im ressure on S ) d y p p e Pelo Athens knew defeat the S it couldn’t When Darius Darius When The S dl as the Corcyra incident, in which Athens su orinth’s wealth and allegiance, duly rallied to the cause. orinth’s h eoni egemony; the ensuing egemony; ut eld the a y the iron hand of S rovi uite the reverse: of the S a year later the Greeks, under the command azed Athens to the ground. The Persian naval cam naval Theazed Athens to the ground. Persian arger Persian shi arger Persian ine of defence the city, the women and children to seek refuge at Salamis (today’s Sala at Salamis (today’s the women and children to seek refuge the city, 30 city-states met30 city-states to devise in Corinth a defence mountains sided with the Persians sided easy to defend and, although the Greeks were greatly outnumbered, the were greatly outnumbered, and, although the Greeks easy to defend Persians advanced u advanced Persians Attica an Attica in disgust, leaving his general Mardonius to subdue Greece. The to subdue result was general Mardonius his in disgust, leaving p b day Corfuday ta to he C First Pelo One of the major triggers of the w T b h q at the army the Persian obliterated tan general Pausanias, Battle The Peloponnesian War r l l mina h treated, but Leonidas,300 of his elite S along with p L pire an quer Greece. In 480 BC Xerxes gathere 480 BC Xerxes In quer Greece. the death in a heroic last stand the death in a heroic last Pelo more agile Greek vessels carried the advantage. Xerxes returnedto Persi carried the advantage. Xerxes more agile Greek vessels on a com the main not successful. By skilful manoeuvring,not successful. By skilful the Greek warshi Acropolis, Athens »

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d b b er was o to spare the city that ha city to spare the p d d d y artans to the aid of the went ll ere engineering their own p ture an , they cripp es – es – enistic cu w l lp d oun ll erceive exan owere b s l p egan to fee erience er even un k p b p Alexander the Great p t that characterises the He II. But it wou aign to rec p er the Great, who wou itions throughout their em p iterature an p & onnesian Wars onnesian Wars i l d ros d l ire. A p arts isem p nown as the Pax Romana. T nown as the Pax nition of Gree p ian League an ing Peric ing s now p d fi l k rst to refer to the He k d e rama, scu ects of He fi e cam t ring to the many schoo ring to the many exan e-weary came un city-states . u l t honour- d art, d p l l l d p l – the name of a g k s s o ing, Phi ff att k b ik oponnese eventuaoponnese l so the oome l Gree ra d Piraeus. g d most as

its counter enism to as far a horizon as his genius an enism to as far a horizon artans and destroyed the Athenian ended the siege, continue to d d onnesian War onnesian it is this conce d d ll p d ation – inc ation ld p te ishing the De orary arts, l l an uneasy truce. an uneasy p p u o ing its unifying tra successor, A successor, d arta, the o p most 300 years, egan a b d d l p d o ea across a vast em b e of the Pe e of the of He e of Macedone of to Sparta 404 BC. Corinth urge in p d l S ire, an d d rea s d onian warrior a p ut the Spartans fe p ea otiate rovince of Achaea, Greece ex d k b arta g d ate 4th century BC, the Gree eet, a ere p l fl p Statue of Socrates of Statue enism wou ing. The fe city-states s, s d oc ways venerate ways halus, would take him. However, in Alexander him. However, halus, would take » l Greece from the Persians. Instea Greece from the Persians. ll k d from the wor of the of p bl ory, Athens an ory, d enistic i eace for a er the monarch. The Gree d a d l ll p d He The Romans were a Despite this, Athens fought on for a further Athens fought on for a Despite this, years nine d econd Pelo econd ine. S y a etween the city an etween the city oung son an l eetprocess in the and army arger em Buce Roman Sicilian city of Syracuse,Sicilian city had been besie which the Athenians He the Romans a its go cities ne The The Ri By the c growing awareness of a new growing awareness of cratic Romans sent their o ing the i b l save ing its b The Hellenistic A the century the Pelo In following y S The 413 BC, when the S truce lasted until thir The the Mace fl three years. Thethree years. S un of g rive ha Athens, society. Contem society. surren Athens an 399 399 BC exile, Socrates antly accepts a life. cup of hemlock. fi de jury condemns him jury him condemns by Homer’s Homer’s by gogical speeches. A A speeches. gogical interest in the interest throughout his throughout the young with peda- ander, who was who was ander, greatly inspired inspired greatly to death. Rather than to the philosopher the philosopher arts and culture and culture arts ‘ Iliad’. ‘ Iliad’. Alexander S o c r a t e s s t a n d s t r i a l , Philip II engaged Philip II engaged Aristotle to tutor tutor to Aristotle retained a strong a strong retained the teenage Alex- the teenage accused of corrupting corrupting of accused appeal ing for voluntaryappeal

718 HISTORY WAR & CONQUEST

HISTORY WAR & CONQUEST

719 ALEXANDER 224 Himalayas. includes Greek leaders of all of leaders Greece to the the to Greece Alexander Alexander the stretching from from stretching time; was never never time; was 30 reigned over over 30 reigned Great is consid- Great ancient empires ancient empires beaten in battle, in battle, beaten the best military military the best ered to be one of be one of to ered thePax Romana. and by the age of of the age and by one of the largest the largest one of 86 BC–AD It lasts 300 years. Roman expansion Macedonia at Pydna Pydna at Macedonia

. , ------t in 168 BC, the Romans y ll d d d d l- ultimately overtake the overtake ultimately mainland and establish establish and mainland w er es territory. First defeating defeating First territory. p ve ld ur b sed d o for so p ine p d exan icte d es, he ente b l fl y no l which b , b otamia, rst The exan fi

l l p efore the arta who d y ta y at Issus b l p airs where airs as, in ff bl e assassinat d a com h in Afghani t S his seasone d bl uer the wor iant p d lk nea. In a m nea. In owerfu q ll er in The hically the mod uence uence colla e him, achieving o p fl d ri p k i y b was renowne l l exce ( d nally the peoples (Thiva) is the efeate the city of A the city aminon ut his now age He dies in 323 BC. ower soon crumbled fi 334–23 BC 334–23 haer d d p er b p Alexander the Great

C e d er – an on his black stallion he known world. Thebes most nota onian no marche d , , istan, Ba d f victim, followed by the and and d p of today’s central Asia. ia, y E d d sets out to conquer the k artan in o ea . Persians, the Egyptians l d b e p

e b l d

In e exan foun l l d d of the autonomous city-state ire an rise about-turn, Athens now al rise about-turn, een a d p him to return to Meso a Mace es, p b , an increasing uering Syria, Palestine and Egy uering Syria, Palestine d . b d q eyon of his men owing year, at the age of 33, he fe owing year, aign against Persia. But aign against Persia. II. b ersuaded them to swear allegiance ersuaded them to swear d ll p son, A p ition was now to con p efeating his army in 331 BC. A efeating his army ld 336 BC 336 itions b d into Greece an never b d d haraoh an arta Thebes and culminated decisive in the the Persians back into Greek a Greek into back Persians the p e ahea ans at the Batt g p essness. After restoring or l

uence of the major city-states ha uence of the major city-states against Persia laid b fl es with the Persians d in kl l att the untimely murder Macedonia following following Macedonia g itched land battle. S land battle. itched of his father. Within a on. The fo onnese in 362 BC. Thebes won the battle, but BC. Thebesonnese in 362 battle, won the Philip’s son Alexander at the sea b l in takes up the challenge p few years the new king assumes leadership of l att p y d s tacticsresistance from his to minimise future of Macedonia – which was gathering strength – which was gathering of Macedonia rec The down by the slain Philip. slain the by down ’ ia. His am ia. His b ) e b aime d d in 324 BC force in 324 l d ies in Athens an ies in d . There ha y d eginning of the en II marche ll

itica d ise those am d b l p romising to cam l roc i en o ie ing, Darius III, ower in the north, Macedon – geogra north,ower in the Macedon p l arta, met their combined forces and the Theban arm p at Corinth and oo d p k d called together all the city-states p in Ba ) p rst into rst

y fi p d bl rea ing a d b e the ll refecture l Phi ld lled the vacuum. In a sur lled the vacuum. In , ieve d fi l (p e 000 men into Asia Minor in 334 BC 000 men into Asia Minor e cantly eroded. Their waning,cantly eroded. strength theyto were unable

, wi y an fi ll 359 BC 359 his reign east into what is now Uz b l d ire, but Alexander time in crushing them, making an wasted no onia rst defeat in a rst defeat in 336 BC. His 20-year-o in 336 BC. His northern In d ós , Alexander in con succeeded II’s death had been the signal for rebellions throughout the bud death had II’s fi p d ) p d en p . The rivalry S between ne of Alexander i m his attention to the Persian Em to the Persian his attention le of Thebes U by razing it to the ground. againon Persia. our, cunning an our, In the north, the ) l ways the ways l o l d O p of Athenians an scholar – became king ghter and dd the Persian the Persian e of Leuctra in 371 The BC, where fi n fter few a y l d Macedonians are on on are Macedonians aminondas was killed; and without him, Theban killed; and without him, aminondas was In 338 BC In A Phili However, the However, arta’s arta’s Phi II seizes the initiative su in the power vacuum. the rise as King Philip Sparta and Athens on on Athens and Sparta iers grewweary an een signi p d esisted alliance a promise to wage war Thiva urne o Mace hat signa 333 BC hey foun orced a union between former foes. Afterorced a union between Alexandria he maniacally ll He seeks alliances with structure, Phili continue under its aggressive monarch, Phili at Mantinea in the Pelo in at Mantinea was a which he – where he was d i sue stan an dria. f t of 40 army ( ding em t e as a arm t r b newcombat the ern lied itself with S lied itself with Ep ( S nor from Persian rule, brin rule, Persian from nor t his va where he sett new subjects was to interbreed his soldiers with his new subjects monarch cou exam Batt and Thebes

, ,

. l ------. l d d d d f d l a e of d l een d the k l ashes, ita erate l estroy l which p , egan to Athens d neither owerfu the Ach stanbul). b AD 63 AD d d p İ d

y rst bishop. rst ecame the e . erience l fi om to se er the aus b b d p great migra d s ‘ d ture, Athens ast unti ita l l usive c l p the ca ers. The state ion against the disciple, Titus, to St Titus becomes d d after St Paul visits cu phi, an . ll convert the island. ite this ite l y un Crete’s Crete’s e k Sea region, Mith a inva Crete and leaves his p ll ire in the east, theire in the east, b Christianity Christianity emerges k na ll ire was acce the Roman consu p es d now they were p d resent-day resent-day ac d inconc d Sparta joine re l p l cia d d Gree on De ffi

tures on the empire an the empire tures on d d l ish Crusa le ( over the region k p 0 when the Goths inva e of Py rian, Greece ex -fate l 5 urred on by the ld d ll e vu ious Corinthians p k ll tures. Greece now ressure from the Persians an ressure from the Persians i e l 27 BC p city-states to the south to city-states

lp Ha

b though o k l d ing of the B an i ine, the eastern ca d d l in 146 BC an in 146 centrres and and centrres k d d ec e in AD 2 e scu ising population ising population eastern Libya to d form the Roman cities were given the free era of prosperity. orging his vast em orging his vast

ushering in a new earning. During a succession of Roman k re & theCrusade ict the Roman region, in AD 324 in the bl l bl f l fl y the i Crete is united with province of Creta et Cyrenaica, reorgan- efeate b ua

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l JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © p d pl of the Gree of the ing theirs to the west, an l d emise of the Byzantine Em . s into Greece. After severa d to retain its strongho ve the con d l d on in 168 BC at the Batt ution, the Roman statesman Su ution, the Roman statesman strength as a Christian state. In the ensuing centu as a Christian state. In strength ne Emp d egan to crum oms b in the Pe d i b d d le century AD rovince of Achaea. A y Augustus, Nero an y Augustus, Nero l a d p e an exam u ost contro er the Great was ase ing l een expan d d Mace b k R b th an ative peace, the Pax Romana, which was to ative peace, the Pax

ing inroa l l d s rst of a succession of invaders with its most va ynasty, his genera ynasty, fi k d ff n ort to reso d

ff ent onia o exan d its status as a centre of ire from Rome to Byzantium, a city on the western shore of the ire from Rome to Byzantium, a city g l ut it manage d d k together the Aeto into e Tower of the Winds, Athens d p b of re » efeate ow Christians from the west – the Fran d d e of the 3r ax Romana d e d horus, which was renamed Constantino s, ll e Rome went into termina eA eror Constantine I, a Christian convert, transferre P erors, name l l too d p b p epen p ates VI. In retri ates VI. In e ddl It is ironic that the In an e In The Achaean League was Mace d d orei d

h ices of Rome, some major Gree ices of Rome, some major y fe an Bos to start ma Graeco-Roman an expan was carved empire into fractious, up Alexander’s the dust settled, when in Romans in Asia Minor stage Romans in Asia Minor grow in wea Romans ha ries, Byzantine Greece face Ara b T Greece, the the middle Balkans tions’ of the Visigoths and then the Ostrogoths from p govern to some extent. As the Romans revere The Byzant ing their city. In 86 BC Athens joine 86 In ing their city. ri b aean League, F Roman Er Whi such reach in such a short a in such reach such s Whi the em em Em retaine they Mummius ma Mummius perio mi nally nally wars. fi 67 BC Site Best Best Gortyna becomes Gortyna becomes earlier at Kydonia. Kydonia. at earlier invading two years invading two The Romans conquer Crete after outnumbered outnumbered Persian force. Persian today’s Lamia, Lamia, today’s the capital and most redefine ‘valour’ ‘valour’ redefine as they held out as they Historical Historical saw the Spartans the Spartans saw The epic Battle of Battle of The epic Thermopylae, near near Thermopylae, Romana’ ends internal powerful city. The ‘Pax against king Xerxes’ Xerxes’ king against

720 HISTORY FOREIGN RULE HISTORY FOREIGN RULE 721 395 mosque in mosque Europe. The Europe. was built by built by was to the oldest the oldest to at Didymotiho ourishes; many many ourishes; Bayazit I in the Bayazit Greece is home Greece Ottoman Sultan Sultan Ottoman fl late 14th century. 14th late Bayezit’s Bayezit’s Mosque Piracy decreases, province; Gortyna province; churches are built. are churches The Roman Empire is its administrative and reli gious centre.and reli

, , . ------trade y a d d comes a self-governing splits and Crete is ruled o

by Byzantium.by be- Crete . l ire re in ers k ( p d d . The uire ine l l ea q l owe ec cial cial struc retained had also ll ffi d , the Pe s lanted the 394 d VIII man y d l d pp decided that decided -15th centur ious zea ut the ) tured Crete in d Selim the Sot g b , i p ture hers converge l su p ) em an p C h r i s t i a n i t y i s l . y re worship of Greek oso . Michae eared on the eastern religion. All pagan l b y tans that fo and Roman gods is meanwhile ire l theology supplants , outlawed. Christian y the mi declared the o hi . pp uarters. Many eminent uarters. Many p classical philosophy. b

as p es su

d d dq l d ogos reca d y this time Byzantium was l ire go into stea b onnese in a three-year cam rst a rst an , and the island of Crete,, and the island and si ree p fi l s advance as far as Athens. ) p g ll where the Venetian the Crusades. aeo p ( o ut enetians s an l l p y ecting area, the l ectua b V ff b ff u 324 ings than Jerusa ings than p k . Once more Greece became a bat art of the 13th century ) ro ectua ic p ire on a zantine creativit p owerful traders in the Mediterranean ll ia p p le fell under Turkish Ottoman rule Ottoman le fell under Turkish y t p VIII Pa p l ansion. Although they ca a ed gains traction. gains r p e in 1261, 1259 not yetairs, Byzantium was dead. In p ff er their contro y without a y without pl rinces. The d s from the Pe b Pax Romana and in to Byzantium (later kok p

aign, the ine . k nople). Christianity Christianity nople). The AD 250 invasion art of the Ottoman Em art of the Ottoman

richer richer f 324 the capital of the 324 re named Constanti- d signals the decline of p ) l riven as much riven as p d urst of B of Greece by the Goths e tur d Roman empire is moved moved is Roman empire in the early in the s b (

efdoms ruled by self-styled ‘Latin’ (mostly Frank ‘Latin’ ruled by self-styled efdoms l asse fi le p eror Michae orts, including Methoni, Koroni and Monemvasia in and Monemvasia orts, Koroni including Methoni, ire in the middle of the 11th century. The Ottomans 11thire in the middle of the century. in Greece. Over the next in Greece. Over few centuries they ac na p the Tur e the city of Mystras his hea of Mystras e the city p fi p then known as the Morea then known rmer es resente 17th the em centuries saw d ( d ld that saw Venetian troo Venetian that saw o d le was sacked in 1204 and much of the Byzantine Em much of the Byzantine in 1204 and le was sacked p e d m ) cials cials 250 f ffi tion of the Ionian Islands Islands tion of the Ionian p e ll e s y the areas un ower reached its zenith under Sultan Süleyman the Mag p le was soon facing a much greater threat from the east. Thele was soon facing a much e ma p p pl Greeks as p dl aim Constantino d f it i y for a l rus to their dominions in 1570, but his death in 1574 marked 1574 rus to their dominions in 1570, but his death in ity theyity were o y p l p onnese rst Christian rst fi persecutions. who ruled between 1520 and 1566. His successor 1566. His and 1520 who ruled between , Greece became p a footho w ite this sorry of a state , 1685–87 ra ) ( d p martyrs, the so- d artitioned into do the Cretan village to rec p as Roman o ate 16th an The The of the same name, l Saints) are killed in an d ha cent Venice ex Venice Ottoman Ottoman On 29 May 1453, Constantino 1453, On 29 May Des Constantino p fi called Agii Deka (Ten s onstantino aign onnese an ecame the wealthiest and most ecame the wealthiest and ut in rea begin major Christian he he Pelo he Byzantine em the followers of Osman, who ruled from 1289 to 1326 the followers of Osman, ringes of the Crusa rst three 1669 after a 25-year cam Seljuk Turks, a tribe from central Asia, a tribe had Seljuk Turks, of the Fourth Crusade Crusade Fourth of the was Seljuks as the dominant Turkish tribe. The Muslim Ottomans began to Ottomans tribe. The Muslim Seljuks as the dominant Turkish ex were harassing the Byzantine Em a control ferred to b Eventually, and Venetians. tleground, this time fought over by the Turks with the exce ( deal with Venice, who had hel who deal with Venice, p added Cy t ni f Ottoman Ottoman Ru Constantino p on the cit age all the key Greek t b t ish or western-Germanic fi C mission of the Crusades was to liberate the Holy Landthe Muslims from the Holy to liberate was the Crusades of mission b secure Byzantine artists, architects, inte an end to serious territorial ex

. l - - - - - 7 e k d d d d 7 s, a b- . d l i so, k y – l l itsa o l rey, rey, the l who ff ). k ( erics, into d s an l s pro rey de rey l d ess ff insi e. A k l 1209 i Eteria l Ni er 182 d y across l k ghters d b i eet sun ation. ate fi capture iques that l fl l

Geo cia of Gree l p

ffi d k l . p ruth aunche Peloponnese). their former their l d church c d onnese in 1770 y war, prompt y war, l s s ha efs; he paves the another Geo another er store l and Nafplio in and Nafplio ish o fi p k ) taneous k d k . l o oponnese 12,000 way for his nephew, l l Prince of Morea (the out the Peloponnese Villehardouin parcels parcels Villehardouin aine who appoints himself himself appoints who ow into into es. The Gree g ective means of ff Xanthos an Xanthos a ho name given to medieval medieval to given name p to emanci b l d uentia avros d ance of the sultan fl ing over the provincia ing over the f-governing c f-governing fi y e l d ghting was savage an was savage ghting l l s message spread quickly. s message spread quickly. fi British nava ’ ire gun . The d p ets of Tur the Parthenon k aime d tan in Constantinop ence party, the Fi ence party, k l most simu d l l d utions to the Gree had recaptured most of the b ) modern Pylos rst in the Pe 1204 ( ut neverre fi s. The es; in the Pe ow Christians in the south, an e of Navarino in Octo e of Navarino b Athens. The Western powers in powers Athens. The Western proc d l d ans to engage the Ottoman army. ans to engage the Ottoman epen ll d d governance twice esca governance twice of, Emmanue of, amage of Chios interest, the d l e out a l lk an ever-increasing grou erystruc an att d d ion, l a k contri d ll l B ll k y in Crusaders sack fervour for self- a blow that sets Constantinople. Constantinople. e an s an ro is Crusaders strike Trading religious religious Trading k ower base in de l oth si b dl b d , the Ottoman governor of Ioannina of Ioannina governor , the Ottoman p within a year the Gree b a ) dd after of Tripo the capture of the city force was the on atriates, who as atriates, who Marauding Frankish d ongi an b d l

d e in 1715, p ongi, Athens an l e road to a slow demise. Constantinople on the the on Constantinople l d igation to the su igation to the nancia erate its fe . The Ottomans took advantage and by 182 . The Ottomans ll fi so existe uence under the sultan’s lax leadership or en lax leadership or uence under the sultan’s on i ) , an ex l b fl bl l i Russian, French an French Russian, ru d k d the o l . On 25 March 1821, the Gree . On 25 March rst Gree d d owners or governors, ru owners or governors, fi d d enetian arti is an throughout Greece as se Greece throughout his own nderground organisation d eet in the l e y on the is V ate fl e d l 1741–1822 p u l fi to d ine Messo ( e ectua an of the 18th of the century poc e , while the Turks retaliated with massacres in Asia , while the Turks d as Messo b d l the occupie ) ll 960 d d the that arme ll d troops into the Ba ministrative status; theyministrative were in d d ence on 13 January 1822 at Epi ence on 13 January e d d . The ence. Uprisings ence. Uprisings d e generous II ) d d enc a d aigne erences over nationa iros in 1786. Both insurrections crushe were iros in 1786. d emerge ff ieve d itants were p launches the p i l d a com d b e d s private rebellion against the sultan in 1820 gave the Greeks the sultan in 1820 gave s private rebellion against d class emerges. class epen ’ Nikiforos Fokas Fokas Nikiforos ma

b with Egyptian reinforcements ege l ( epen d d l in 1824 and 1825 in 1824 ed, and Chandax fi d ( Byzantine Byzantine General ish-Egyptian an usinessmen Athanasios Tsa becomes capital. A roceed to set u in k easants. But there a easants. But d b liberating the island. oponnese, an ‘Expedition to Crete’, p Coastaldefences are d p l ing many inte ing many powerful land-holding

forti oufas foun epen privi d ish inha k thy merchants, thy merchants, e cursory of o gestures k li Pasha d l then in E u k d tan Mahmu d l oponnese, as we Russia cam Russia The campaign esca Regiona A The Ottomans restore The Ottomans l d l aime n l present-day Tripoli present-day Friendly Society Friendly would ma Supporters civil war most of Greece an inc some Greeks had gained in some Greeks authority. By the en By the authority. Pe the Turks the Turks the Tur tervene to sen ing Russia c eration, an atrocities were committe ( I 1814 In os S ( aristocrats ha aristocrats joye Gree Su the impetus they nee Minor, most notorious most Minor, War of In War an wea the fortresses of Monemvasia, Navarino Navarino the fortresses of Monemvasia, Tur the latter by Ali Pasha by Ali Pasha the latter the Pe the ruins of the Acropo the ruins sent Russian agents to foment re sent Russian 529 Athens’ Athens’ cultural by now regarded as blow when Emperor Emperor when blow the ultimate form of died in 1824. philosophy in favour favour in philosophy teaching of classical of philhellenic philhellenic of The poet Lord The poet Lord short when he role in fanning in fanning role cause. Byron’s Byron’s cause. uence is dealt a fatal fatal a dealt is uence Byron was one was Byron Justinian outlaws the volunteers who volunteers of Christian theology, of a large group group large a of fl played an active an active played the independence the independence war effort was cut was effort war intellectual endeavour. intellectual in

722 HISTORY INDEPENDENCE HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION 723 Athens. 1684–87 Venetian troops Peloponnese in a advance as far as the Turks from the campaign that sees sees that campaign The Venetians expel

- - - s y d k io, om ent e an pl d d istri y the b d b en Greece ing y giving p d to k b e Bavarian d ). d uence uence 1541 fl ld are l s. Kapo iscontent an Dominikos Dominikos rove ec chose Naf k innovation. d p s at the gates of the gates s at cant naval blockades (the most (the most blockades naval cant d d fi 1827 the Gree omat of Russian p l . pl ran ri i School in School k es p ence with the Treat ence with d and bold personal d ic; an d , 17-year-o known as ‘ El Greco’, known as ‘ consisted of the Pelo k bl is born in Candia; his the imprisonment of a the imprisonment Russia Russia in Italy and Spain are ) en ence veterans subsequent creations u ora Theotokopoulos, later d d p d marked by both Cretan p p e d ere en ier. In A In ier. l former d p ermine rising in d e d ). She helped maintain the crews of her ships her ships of She helped maintain the crews ). k d the S n or d d usy organising the in usy organising b follows. 1460 including leaders of the independ including leaders of the ot an ( Gree fi ent of the re d es an io in January 1833. The newio in January the in years ear . l d d een l d te pl a b l p issension within Gree issension within

ita resi d d p p posts to his Bavarian court. However, court. However, posts to his Bavarian centuries of power By 1460 the Morea l to Athens in 1834, King Otto Agamemmnon ienate l severa Turks and Venetians l falls to the Turks and in Naf d rst struggles between the a ita fi e, ha d reek Natio reek tan acce l cia istrias, a Cor d p l ffi a, the Cyc d endence was formally recognised in 1830 recognised was formally endence G d o aime in 1831 after he ha p l a p d ll whose authority had been weakened by the new state. had been weakened whose authority roc ) inde p ( e, the su

1453 Empire. d er I, as the pl er who ha le onnese, as the ca onnese, as the d l s, meanwhi p p k o l the ensuing anarchy, Britain, France an Britain, France the ensuing anarchy, Ioannis Ka Ioannis exan d l d Greece becomes Distinguished as a national heroine, streets across Greece bear her name and her bear Greece across streets heroine, as a national Distinguished a dominion of the cantly helped the independence movement. However, political factionism within the factionism political However, movement. the independence helped cantly they seize control fi fter moving the ca mi of Constantinople, sounding the death A FEMALE FORCE FEMALE A throughout movements resistance in Greek role a strong played have women Greek is one such seafarer, a celebrated Bouboulina (1771–1825), Laskarina and history a major organisation Society), (Friendly Filiki Eteria a member of She became woman. in she settled Hydra, from Originally rule. Ottoman against independence for striving – as a and commanded of the construction she commissioned where from Spetses in signi used that were warships – several lady admiral image appeared commemoratively on the (now-disused) one-drachma coin. Moreover, Moreover, coin. one-drachma on the (now-disused) commemoratively appeared image WWII. in with the resistance fought also Karagiannis, Lela her great-granddaughter, home is and Bouboulina’s Town, in Spetses women both to dedicated statues are There museum. a private now famous vessel being the vessel famous and weapons with food, and supplied the revolutionaries soldiers, of and a small army sig- in maritime operations Her role transportation. for her ships using ammunition, ni she died. where Spetses, to exile and subsequent arrest her postwar led to government However, there was much there was However,

A A rasive ru Ottoman after Turks aniot chieftain,part of a response to un ecte onstantino onnese, Sterea E b monarchy. They set on the throne a non-Gree monarchy. l ebellion among the many partiesebellion among the many he most prestigious o established by the London of 1832 Convention knell for the Byzantine in the Pe Prince Otto, who arrive Otto, Prince state they ha e Tsar A Tsar of Adriano a p t a ( as was assassinate M r ence movement The Modern The The Gree Fighting continued until 1829 when, with Russian troo Russian with when, 1829 until continued Fighting C . . . . ------) ) ) d a n of g g d reatly g . The bid ence ha ence ) groun it tried to d , with Crete followin k rize coveted ) . But, Greek ( announced 1822–29 , of Adrianople.of ) en p ac which includ rime minister p . ( aria, as well as b ht some stabil Independence is nised by inter , which 1912 and 1913 e p ghting continues continues ghting for another seven g ) ( g p. g fi ositioned on the d lomatic interven union p Athens University University Athens on 13 January 1822, olitician until his p in 1897 ( ( years. The Ottomans ,

p capitulate and accept declared at Epidavros but but iros as a result of a the terms of the Treaty p osis un in 1815 Britain simultaneously g ust 1913 n , e g resentatives p Au ( art of E 1821 p leftherios Venizelos art of Macedonia art of Macedonia Danish Prince William, crowned Danish Prince n eventually brou E p g g Great Idea’) was to assert was soverei Great Idea’) h this was not reco ‘ Independence. g ort to reach ations. Set against the French interests were nervous the at French ff l warts of the War of In of warts War of the Eteria) signals the l d of Independence on celebrates this date date this celebrates member of the Filiki as its national day of beginning of the War beginning of the On 25 March, Bishop Germanos of Patra (a the mainland. Greece opu s resources and timely di ’ etained Macedonia. This etained was a Macedonia. with a new 1864 that estab constitution in p r ire was in its death throes at the beginning of

g and with it its fertile agricultural resources p ( k such as afternoon tea and cricket revented the Turkish army from taking Athens army revented the Turkish ( iance with Russia against the Ottomans, espe the Ottomans, against iance with Russia p radually handed over to the Greeks, and in 1905 . Venizelos went on to become . Venizelos m ) ll g E ong between the Venetians, Russians and French Russians the Venetians, ong between a innin uired Thessaly and British an p rove the islands’ infrastructure locals and many , . g Gree q ressure on Britain to give sovereignty to the Greek to the sovereignty ressure on Britain to give ) p s d p 1814 owers ict ing- fl p it had still athies brought about his downfall in 1935. , p ut p p laced under international administration, but the govern- laced under international administration, but the in the northe in an p uence in the Ionian Islands had be had Islands Ionian uence in the isperse y fl ower of democratically elected re uence spreads spreads uence e I in 1863. His 50-yeare I in 1863. His rei fl ersistently agitated for liberation from the Ottomans ersistently agitated for liberation d and led to the outbreak of the Balkan Wars and led to the outbreak of the Balkan Wars p g , p The The underground as the Filiki Eteria as the (Friendly Society) Society) (Friendly town of Odessa on olitical laced by a new breed of university graduates graduates a newlaced by of university breed h the Ottoman h the Ottoman throughout Greece. throughout organisation known known organisation p is established in the p the Black Sea coast. and in 1864 the British left. and in 1864 the British Meanwhile g Its in Its , endence resident of the Cretan assembly, as in 1862 Otto had been ousted in a bloodless cou ousted in a bloodless had been as in 1862 Otto ted British customs Geor Hellenic Independence Independence Hellenic p y p of the 1850s of sta of the most p g anded Greek territory ublican sym Crete was In 1881 Greece ac In British in d ell of p p een re y Greece y the newly Balkan countries of Serbia and Bul formed p who had ment of the island was prospect of a Greece a the Crimean con the Crimean The outcome was the Treaty of Bucharest The outcome was the Treaty Its borders now took in the southern nation inde drained much of the country The British did im attack Turke attack the 20th century b ed Thessaloniki, cultural the vital centre strategically national law until 1913 national law Balkan War Althou b ( tion by the great ity to the country, be to the country, ity lished the TheGreat Ide policy foreign the (dubbed Greece’s its over ty ciall en b Crete’s union with Greece (althou Crete’s ado re the was founded in 1817 was founded of Greece in 1910 and was the country’s leading of Greece in 1910 and was the country’s Kin Russo-Turkish war. But Greece failed miserably when war. Russo-Turkish eased onto the Greek throne the youn eased onto the Greek throne s ex the region.the The ers Greeks Greeks ers ff (1824) was was (1824) She o in Paris several towns with nancial incentives incentives nancial fi Massacre at Massacre hangs in the hangs Minor during Russia dislodges the events in Asia Asia in events Turks from the Black oil canvas oil canvas inspired by the by inspired Greece’s War of War Greece’s Louvre Museum Museum Louvre and free land to settle Independence in Independence Ancient Greek names. Chios Sea coast and assigns Catherine the Great of Eugène Eugène Delacroix’ 1821. The painting 1821. 1770s & 1780s 1770s

724 HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION 725 1862–63 third cousin. third Duke of Edin- of Duke and Denmark and Denmark godfather and godfather Constantine, is Constantine, king of Greece, Greece, king of Prince Charles’ Charles’ Prince in 1921. Former Former in 1921. Corfu as Prince as Prince Corfu burgh, was part part was burgh, Prince William’s William’s Prince Philip of Greece Greece Philip of family – born on family Prince Philip, the Philip, Prince of the Greek royal royal the Greek of British return the return British protectorate since since protectorate expansionist urges. Otto is deposed in a a nosedive and King bloodless coup. The The bloodless coup. The monarchy takes ort to quell Greece’s 1815) to Greece in an

ff . . ------y y g e o Ionian Islands British (a p d ad laced WWI ’ p Britain, rst rst ( fi rivileged p lacing him 1833 p when l ut a tremen iros, and the and iros, p p later to become zmir in Turkey) zmir in Turkey) ( İ modern Greece. modern Entente (Britain, (Britain, Entente ort for Venizelos had ort for Venizelos his son Constantine his son Otto of Bavaria to which it had tem The powers of the of Lausanne in Jul ( risals against its local the union with Crete the union d France and Russia) decree that Greece Greece that decree y tember 1921 they . pp and dispatch Prince g p ) p Greece to be the appointed monarch in should be a monarchy reat bitterness and hard reat bitterness g ed on, the Allies ed on, the Allies e, an recedented even by Greek resent-day resent-day g nisin p p gg g Mustafa Kemal Kemal Mustafa y Geor overty shant in emerging urban g p edgling edgling romising concessions in Asiaromising concessions Minor aign to further and, with Al the case fl myrna ( myrna as reco ressure on Greece to join forces with ressure on Greece p p S favoured the Allied cause, the Allied cause, favoured ll p who was more amenable to the Allies who was more amenable ulation exchange between Greece and ulation exchange between . Alexander from a monkey died bite Kin , utes. Almost 1.5 million Greeks left Tur t the Dodecanese g p d 1827–31 rotectingmillion Greeks living the half a that Greece remain neutra that Greece os ation of Smyrna stirred internal resent stirred ation of Smyrna p assassinated. o p p d p s in Peloponnesian p niki town of Nafplio. ees from Turkey coincided with, and com coincided ees from Turkey its capital in the p o government with with government g Constantine, who was married to the sister who was married to Constantine, s, as we Discontent ensues ensues Discontent is appointed prime al and Kapodistrias is g d Ioannis Ioannis Kapodistrias ss commanded b Venizel minister of a , r an olitical instability un olitical instability romised land in Asia Minor was not forthcoming.romised land in Asia Minor art of Thrace, of E chunk another Alexander lomatic cam l , p p p te p ensive. The retreated fell in Greek army but Smyrna ark a series of sanguinary re ut increasing ut increasing , ff s to march ahead, and by Se s to march ahead, and by is With a seemingly viable hold in Asia Minor, Venize hold in Asia With a seemingly viable Minor, ) p p eror, insiste eror, p ) n

i p ) ust 1914. As the war dra ust 1914. ean Is g and The g man assassinate ed s s a s serveddistinction with on the Allied side, but when the p 1827 eriod of ublic of 1924–35 of ublic p also called for a me M However, the occu However, p i 13 ulation. y ( p revent future dis any 9 p p o uired in 1912 and would hold until 1947 1 halted the o p q h uiescence, landed troo ), Russian forces q in Athen s whereby Turkey recovered eastern Thrace of Imv and the islands whereby Turkey and tens of thousands of its Greek inhabitants were killed. and tens of thousands of , , for the individuals concerned. Many Greeks abandoned a Greeks abandoned for the individuals concerned. Many sink the combined WISmyrna & British, French and eet in the Battle of eet in the fl p the Peloponnese), a The treat Greek troo The outcome of these hostilities was the Treat uslim wn decisive action in the Navarino Pylos, (at in tatürk enizelos then led a di ounded, a y his second-born son roke out in Au roke ecame the monarch. Kin ecame the monarch. War of Independence. os and Tenedos, while Italy ke os and Tenedos, arily ac o n return. Pr Turkish-Egyptian naval standards. In October 1920 Kin standards. In and his father Constantine was restored to the throne. But the ensuin and his father Constantine was restored to the of the German em in May 1919, under the guise of in May war ended in 1918 the 1923 t p The The Re The arrival of the Greek refu key and almost 400,000 Turks left Greece. The exchange key and almost 400,000 Turks and caused dous strain on the Greek economy shi for one of extremelife in Asia Minor Turkey to Turkey r r A ments and hel M los ordered his troo But by this stage foreign su vanced as far as Ankara. V lied ac i b b W In Marc b Balkan trade routes trade Balkan them against Germany and Turkey, Germanythem against and Turkey, in the city. in the city. France and Russia France re at loggerheads with the king. 1917, The king left June Greece in northeastern Ae 1922 ebbed and Turkish forces ebbed and Turkish . ------) s ic e- n- i p p . re- bl ula im ular g u ower p ), p p p o 1896 (no) to p i me m lebiscite i reventing r s, and the p ohi p p p ly as he had after fall the ) p counter-cou owers with the The staging of the ly of medal and a laurel , Ethnikon A , Ethnikon d p p ) return to ’ rst modern Olympic modern rst branch, respectively. branch, and second and third ation, many dying ation, many fi again retext of p medal and olive crown, crown, olive and medal ( this, asked Metaxas this, asked places receive a bronze Winners receive a silver s an Games in Athens marks Greece’s coming of age. age. of coming Greece’s p g ast, but what he actu p ELAS p . The dominant three ( p ian Third Greek Civilisa- s Metaxas as s Metaxas in March 1935. Venizelos in March i enizelos p p olice force and fascist-style V and olicy of strict neutrality. The olicy of strict neutrality. p p ower after the war. A re A ower after the war. 1883 s. oann century. p I

ression. His antiroyalist Liberal antiroyalist ression. His rang u p assage through Greece at the be d p p p with the Greek Communist Party , d p. ation within a few weeks. The civil more than half the Jewish more than half the Jewish a series of cou a series olls in March 1933. The 1933. new govern olls in March Greece’s Greece’s most p p reate a uto Georgerst son, no match II, who was d p in the mid-20th fi c KKE by a likely gerrymanderby a likely of a

( ( o Zorba the Greek Zorba Kazantzakis, is born born is Kazantzakis, t famous writer, Nikos famous writer, ril 1941. The Nazis vastly outnumbered the ril 1941. The Nazis famous for works like s Christ y his The Last Temptation of of Temptation The Last p lan to invade the Soviet Union was a secure the Sovietlan to invade Union in Iraklio. He becomes allingly during the occu b p

d ublican cou eleftherotikos Stratos pp olicy reform, but economic and educational of p p n wa s in Greece. He gave the same re gave s in Greece. He cers who seize who cers but the Greeks drove them back into Albania p , p ffi ace , and created a secret ity was attaine ity l p i pl Seas. b visio ened and Constantine abdicated abdicated Constantine and ened ered a 1883 in Greece. Koryzis committed suicide when German in Greece. Koryzis committed ired re p ff g p onents, banned trade unions and the recently established onents, banned trade unions in March 1924 ami 1924 in March orted them to death cam aring for the restoration of the monarchy when Venizelos restoration of the monarchy aring for the d p ursued a p of army o of army pp orters an unsuccessful cou staged p p re uisite of Hitler’s uisite of Hitler’s randiose cuts through the ank in the Balkans. The British, realisin p pp q fl I aime g Greece completes Corinth Canal that l

’ construction the of Isthmus of Corinth. ulation su ress censorshi The engineering feat feat engineering The opens a link between p p rere roc the Aegean and Ionian Ionian and Aegean the s invaded Greece on 6 A s invaded o p p p

measure of sta measure WI risoned o p created was more like a Greek version of the Third Reich. He exiled or the Third a Greek version of created was more like Reich. He p

A A Numerous resistance movements s Numerous y

laced him with the more timid Alexandros Koryzis, to Brit who agreed rogress was inhibited by the Great De rogress was olitical crisis dee crisis olitical osed iven the Italians, but then died suddenly in January 1941. The kin iven the Italians, but then died suddenly in January outh movement. But Metaxas is best known for his re outh movement. But Metaxas defending Greek, British, Australian and New Zealanddefending Greek, British, Australian and New troo was exiled to Paris, where he died a year later. In November 1935 King 1935 November In later. where he died a year was exiled to Paris, George II reassumed the throne if they could land troo was Party, culminating in defeat at the Party, southern tion, based on its glorious ancient and Byzantine tion, based on its glorious king’s consent, under what many believed consent, under what many to be the king’s for the grou for the ian tion and trans g p ish forces landin all p y to allow Italians ultimatum Mussolini’s ginning of WWII, thus maintaining Greece’s and he installed the right-wing Generaland he installed the right-wing W Metaxas p ment was p in 1928. He in 1928. He ister. Nine months later, Metaxas assumed dictatorial Metaxas Nine months later, ister. and his su a communist-ins im were Ellinikos Laïkos A were Ellinikos Kommounistiko Komma Elladas Komma Kommounistiko Greece Italians invaded whole country occu was under Nazi of Smyrna. He was re was He of Smyrna. troo of starvation. rounded u The Nazis Party began to face a growing challenge from the monarchist Po challenge from the monarchist to face a growing began Party RESISTANCE Mark by 1863–64 His 50-year reign begins with a new account of of account movement. Greece: The Greece: Occupation, Occupation, intimate and intimate Prince William, later the ascension to the Experience Experience of Greece under Greece The British engineer Inside Hitler’s Inside Hitler’s the resistance the resistance constitution 1864. in and the rise of of and the rise Mazower, is an Mazower, comprehensive comprehensive Nazi occupation Nazi occupation 1941-44, 1941-44, Greek throne of Danish crowned King George I.

726 HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION 727 country. 1919–23 through the through ance groups, groups, ance supply routes supply routes near Lamia in near Sterea Ellada, Ellada, Sterea railway bridge bridge railway sabotaging for for sabotaging weeks German weeks Gorgopotamos Gorgopotamos of Greek resist- Greek of ish, blew up the blew ish, 1942 a coalition 1942 a coalition On 25 November 25 November On aided by the Brit- aided by Minor. It fails and exchange between leads to a popu lationleads to a popu Greece and in Turkey

- - - - including in those Asia y y i ‘Great Idea’ to unite the Greece embarks on the 1923, referred to as the . Asia Minor catastrophe. Minor Asia former Hellenic regions, regions, Hellenic former le. in b of ) p d eo . am p . d risals at ten with p f inist KKE al and the ht, known Minor. l olarised b ut the com 1914 g g was formed p b cate Greeks oure ation – in an oslavia ) orters. Under fi b g p pp revent the com osition: the left ed into a setting rst round of the ied a large swath of Sta p DSE fi p p ( another ght one har p d orted as rigged fi d p er 1944, and on Turkey the b sees Greece initially initially Greece sees The outbreak of WWI revented an ELAS-EAM neutral but eventually eventually but neutral promise of land in Asia Allies against Germany p ation. siding with the Western l 30s an ushing to u 9 which the communists had cate of Political Reliabilit cate of Political . p ht the Germans, o ( fi p widely re g ( o marked the marked p ), read intimidation and violence. ossible to get aid did US work.

ou at, and the friction continued. p f fl s continued to s continued p k ghters. These groups fought one in Athens, killing several fi p q) red on a communist demonstration which declared that the document fi their hold over the administration – their hold over the administration ), lebiscite ght for the between the left the between and the ri fi g athiser; without this certi p 1912–13 g otiations for reconciliation between the between otiations for reconciliation p ian Gree g and the Ethnikos Dimokratikos Ellinikos Dimokratikos Ethnikos the and l , whereas EAM consiste , whereas s intervened and olice es to reinstate the Greek monarchy es to reinstate the Greek ) Then Greece and Greece Then when Greece and Greece when g ublicans and communists were ublicans and communists p p adis, the DSE swiftly occu territory expands. territory h ELAS was founded by communists, not all not by communists, was founded h ELAS htin p Bulgaria. Greece’s Greece’s Bulgaria. fi Serbia initiallySerbia side p g g Serbia Serbia

Democratic Army of Greece Democratic Army fi , and a itimisin s, the army or rogue right-wing vigilantes, who s, the army with Bul garia against garia Bul with re g ) Syntagma S in Moscow in the 1 in the in Moscow , same territory against territory same EAM g p The Balkan Wars erupt ( ( Turkey over Macedonia. d olitical sides were subjected to bitter re olitical sides were subjected to bitter eft-win p events December of l ( ive on l . Althou

p ) d egan to retreat in Octo from Greece ts for the civi l b y. monarchist resistance monarchist ishing a postwar communist Greece. EDES consiste Greece. communist a postwar ishing British su ght against the monarchy and its r of Markos Va of Markos fi d 1900 Greece’s northern border with Albania and Yu Greece’s olitical enemies with wides bl p ut George throne II back on the EDES six weeks of ers were ers were ( g p p g b civilisation. rovisional government was in an untenable rovisional government p l Wa ers who ha ers who arty division and locked in a serious battle for control. The British in a serious battle arty and locked division Sir Arthur Evans and stunning the i b p tember v begins excavations at Knossos, quickly communists gained during the Germanuence the occu In 1947 the USA intervened the USA the civil war develo and 1947 In In October the left-win In In February 1945 formal ne February In On 3 December 1944 the On 3 December 1944 the The Germans late 1944 the royalists i p any civilians on all any with the discovery of fl archaeological world world archaeological ort augment British ho to reek Civil War. British troo reek Civil War. y he royalists won the March 1946 election he royalists won the March he ensuin the advanced Minoan Minoan advanced the evastating resu earer was not a left-wing sym acked acked overnment introduced its notorious Certi overnment and the communists fell ff unearthing the palace ight-wing an or the new Cold War theatre. Communism was declared ille or the new Cold War which remained valid until 1962 another with as much venom as theyanother with in of its mem mem Syndesmos Syndesmos as the Dekemvriana as the Dekemvriana threatened could not vote and found it almost im in Plateia Syntagmatos ( b f g M T G g T munists from further le C B b d resistance grou munist and monarchist tions of esta tions of r leftherotikon Meto of land alon the leadershi unsuccessfully boycotted was threatening revolt,and the British were the hands of leftist grou to resume the coalition victor inter Se e - - - - e g s. a ht b ed p g g s of riot ower d p orter, orter, to p overn- endent d an g ht-win reed on pp l rimarily p g m future g p o Makarios three years.three p that, despite despite that, and occupies fr Karamanli 1941–44 s t os republicans and and republicans s ghting, drive out ranted the ri Germany Germany invades fi communists form communists form resistance groups nally a the Germans after but elections in g . fi , in ort for the anticom ghting dragged on Greece. Monarchists, Monarchists, Greece. . fi ghting, while Turk airs. Since the 1930s fi arts of the is . tandin

ff pp s p mmuni p n . o agos remained in Karamanlis’ new name o p ), in 1958 as resident. The changes did riot Archbisho ) K ll ly lines p . The continue DSE p y d EK ulation) had demanded union pp ERE ( ( p 1940 ears of bitter civil war than in ears of bitter o it became a British crown colony y p ( , as we le were homeless l laced b s the Italian p ff rus would become an inde p Greece at the arty, led by General Alexander Pa arty, onnese; but the onnese; but . General Pa On 28 October p riot National Organisation of Cy riot National p enerous economic and military aid. p ) eo arms against the British. In 1959, af 1959, arms against the British. In , and by the end of 1947 large chunks large 1947 the end of , and by

p g ) ) p p rebu back into Albania. into back andreou, a former Venizelos su andreou, a former Venizelos Metaxas famously famously Metaxas request to traverse p ave Canada and the USA hich excluded the c forces and are driven , Italians engage Greek g artition of the island olitically frayed and economically shattered. shattered. and economically olitically frayed w beginning of WWII. The p p by Yugoslavia, Bulgaria and indirectly Bulgaria the by by Yugoslavia, took u er its contro inion was overwhelmingly of union, in favour ( ) life elsewhere, in search of a better d ff p . iros until October 1949, when Yugoslavia fell out iros until October when Yugoslavia 1949, eld marshal eld an to turn when the forces of the central the forces of the central an to turn when Greek Rally fi p ( g on & theon Cyprus Issue fths of the island’s osed by Britain and the USA on strategic grounds. osed by Britain and the USA air became the trigger a mass exodus. for Almost a fi rotectorate in 1878 rotectorate in 1878 i p EOKA n 1952 – n 1952 p 1935 ( pp i Georgios Pa ,

ublic o otiations, Britain, Greece and Turkey otiations, Britain, Greece and Turkey g Lesvos p were un were g n d d uarter a million of governance. i q an while Turkey had maintained its claim to the island ever had maintained since while Turkey rove the situation on the groun on situation the rove l , ease either side. EOKA resolved to kee The monarchy is p while introducing while riots (four- restored and King ty vot pp p overnment, the USA overnment, the USA i Metaxas adopts the . Greek to the throne. Right- g romise solution whereby Cy riots clamoured for ) wing General Ioanniswing General role of prime minister or rus resumed centre stage in Greece’s foreign a rus resumed centre stage in Greece’s p p j dictatorial measures of p erate sovereign bases. Intent on maintaining su erate sovereign bases. Intent lied from the northlied from George II is reappointed a former civil-war resident and a Turk, Faisal Kükük, as vice Kükük, Faisal resident and a Turk, ( p e to im e to ublic the following August, with Greek Cy l p Back in Greece Greece joined NATO in 1952, and in 1953 the USA was and in 1953 the USA in 1952, Greece joined NATO The sense of des In 1949 the tide be In The civil war left Greece In 1956 the right-wing Greek Cy In Cy pp p overnments. The November 1952 electionovernments. The 1952 was a victory November ri for the itt a notion strongly o with the Soviet Union and cut the DSE’s su and cut the DSE’s with the Soviet Union as founded the broadly based Centre Union founded the broadly based Centre Union to ma until his death in 1955, when he was re until his death in 1955, when a com su of the main of the More Greeks had been killed in three Greeks had been More Crete, Chios an it became a British ish Cy ter extensive ne gos munist Reconstruct After coalitions, the electoral a series of unworkable was chan system g Synagermos Ellinikos l in the mountains of E in the mountains WWII, and a WWII, and a million Greeks headed o Freedom Fighters Freedom ment drove the DSE out of the Pelo ment drove Soviets states the Balkan through with Greece Greek Cy to countries such as Australia re in 1925 little to a little 1961 returned the National Radical Union Radical Union 1961 returned the National to o

1924–34 War. Monarchists and and Monarchists written by by written return stability. to a republic and King Venizelos tussle for for tussle Venizelos of his family’s his family’s of by communist communist by of Lia, and the Lia, of Greece is proclaimed proclaimed is Greece the Greek Civil the Greek Gage’s mother mother Gage’s Nicholas Gage, The best-seller counters the nation’s guerillas during Eleni, the execution of of the execution life in the village in the village life The Great Depression control of the country. tells the gripping tells events leading to to leading events personal account account personal parliamentarians under under parliamentarians George II leaves Greece. Greece. leaves II George

728 HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION 729 1974 in Vassilis in Vassilis winning film. which later be- which later Grigoris Lamb- Grigoris came an award- came Vassilikos’ novel novel Vassilikos’ assassination of of assassination Z, rakis rakis is described of parliamentary parliamentary of The 1963 political The 1963 political for the restoration Cyprus with Greece Greece with Cyprus of Cyprus by Turkish Turkish by Cyprus of

prompts the invasion l ------democracy in Greece. in democracy This acts as a catalyst d A A botched plan unite to fall of the military junta. m troops and results in the results in troops and o ose ub son ( epu reou p p itica owe oulos l d ed to d lacing s until fl ll p o ed. The p p p income an p

services l d ned fr p d ado reou wast o 1973 p d is, the . uce ) k andreou that fo d l p ra . All this proved . All this a former EOK arties and trade umm ation calling for ) ( students die. students b s p arty won a large p The exiled former

t and esca Papan ive in Paris. ive in p ( s l olice, Dimitrios Io y p d

at the Athens Poly ) p son EDA g ing on socia turmoi ( p eorgios Pa Athens Polytechnio junta. More than 20 l andreou’s tolerance of andreou’s uprising against the ortedly killed and hun ram the gates of the wa school buildings in a d and troops storm the G s p ND p ainst the newly formed (Technical University) University) (Technical

bid to quash a student ndreas Pa ( olitical On 17 November tanks g ril 1967. They established ril 1967. en y p A p itica changes. He free changes. He p

l l went to went y to Greece, re to Greece, s o d k d p ica oulos declared Greece a re oulos declared Greece a le the Makarios government in government le the Makarios d ac p led b rime minister. King Constantine rime minister. an , time in succession. in time Pa b ruary 1964 an p d pp rights. riots remain missing the d led b risoned, tortured exiled and thou b on 21 A ed their homes for the safety of the p d ), ado p fl ne arties was lifted. p . in December, after which he in December, p uell a student occu g p p q artitioning the country and dis increase sed. Karamanli p where it continues to use its royal titles. 1967–74 , d p s & Democrac to oulos as ) New DemocracyNew PASOK ting to to ( p h and im uently, mainland Turkey sent in troo mainland Turkey uently, rus, p s resident es to come impose martial law p q igging, an p bicker, provoking in Right- and left-wing oulos. In July 1974 Ioannidis tried to im Ioannidis 1974 July oulos. In l riots who military coup d’état p factions continue to to continue factions r colla

p p elt the death knell for the junta. ado get, an t p by army generals who and abolish many civil April 1967 a right-wing right-wing 1967 a April establish a junta. They er, in May 1963, of Grigoris Lam 1963, of Grigoris in May er, p p d is, who resi is, who o l exi d u ll of army colonels of army ado d b a ower for the thir for ower p p . b p ementing a series of ra ementing a series more than 20 students were re more than 20 students were owe lebiscite voted 69% against the restoration of the mon ( pl ce and hi ll y came to power in Fe y came to power p ffi rus by attem y, to y, ll . o , the act s a efence p ) ute ll n d d osed Pa s, Monarc . A osed censorshi r Karaman p o resident. Conse ) in the mur in the na l p ointed himself ied northern Cy p fi ortedly more than 1500 Cy p fo d Ra p laced him with the extremist Nikos Sam laced him with the extremist Nikos Technical University Technical p pp k ( p take take the ERE of the ERE 1944–49 the re as o d then London d ( ) olitical right in by Pa Greece was rattled , rising against the US-backed junta. While the number of casualties rising against the US-backed one civil war, pitching pitching war, civil communists. The communists. The t p p l s Greeks emigrate in in emigrate Greeks rus; Makarios got wind of an assassination attem got rus; Makarios Stylianos Patakos, staged a cou Patakos, Stylianos much much minate Shortly after, the head of the military the security Shortly after, On 17 November 1973 tanks stormed a buildin November On 17 The colonels declared martial law, banned The martial colonels declared law, The junta dictatorshi The EK p d no time in im l Greece descend into monarchists against against monarchists The end of WWII sees y search of a better life. risoners an 1946, but the civil war d oyal family still lives in London oo takes its toll and many or Gree unta re monarchists recover in unions, im unity with Cy unity Pari majority at the November elections in 1974 a elections at the November in 1974 majority tax an Co The e p leader south is still in dis Rome archy and the ban on communist r annidis, de C j technio dreds injured sands of dissidents. In June 1972 Pa June sands of dissidents. In lic and a ty of the communist Union of the Democratic Left of the Democratic Union communist of the ty f an u of Georgios they occu the left, and a grou tried an unsuccessful counter-cou an t a military with Pa junta Panhellenic Socialist Union Socialist Union Panhellenic cu and educati almost 200,000 Greek Cy accuse

- - - s s ’ p K g me i arty. r olicy p ublic fared p p rojects ). ensive. s p p 2004 p ue olls olitics and ss p it was the p , e new i hosts the 28th s championship. h ed rumour that that rumour ed s PASOK s PASOK ce. Intent on ’ ffl ffi Summer Olympic urred on largely ed PASOK, and ed PASOK, ation and high ation and alised, and civil not be complete in fl Games amid much p g the government the g men’ s as t loyment was highloyment was Greece Greece successfully mu d infrastructure would i o the European football p t rella of the euro. In i time. Greece also wins increases in ndreas Papandreou b m p m e A i . PASOK promised am . PASOK andreou ) n ack to o p ation level. Membershi b u fl osed austerity measures, osed austerity

arliamentary and majority ) t p ortionately more ex le um p D p b N ro 1999 Costas S er 1981, p Greece’s currency was underval Greece’s r b and many Greeks were keen to Greeks were keen and many g , er of the EU in 1981 er of the EU andreou’s left-leaning andreou’s rst socialist government. PASO rst socialist government. orters the ND for had abandoned ndreas Pa fi b p ment of Athens – s roblems – high in A s pp ’ p p the two nations led the ing, an Constantine, s Turkey andTurkey Greece ic Games, which was a tremendous boost k earthquakes within rivate citizens. rivate oin the amid rumblin eurozone in 2001, lemented. weeks of eachother j initiate a warming of experience powerful powerful experience p diplomatic relations. diplomatic p p exceptfor 1990–93 . ( of deaths. By pledging taki that result in hundreds hundreds in result that roduced a dramatic change of direction for er. In Octo In er. s mutual aid and support, oured into large-scale infrastructure p b so p 0 y arty; ND lost its the p n and welfare were limited. W n and welfare s economic ’ o Mit 99 to close the US air bases and to withdraw from withdraw air bases and to US to close the tion allegations were being levelledtion allegations were being against the gov- , resence was reduced, bu resence was arture ed down in early 1996 due to ill health and he dieded down in early 1996 due os p p power. ring p arty abandoning Pa p pp ainst the euro, claimin p g ecame the 10th mem ending – the government im ending – the government s assets members the royal family in 2002 and was settled ’ b p tandin 1981–90 members that Greece was not ready economically to join – members that Greece was not ready economically poorest mem s in educati etween former the g d erienced economist and lawye n lasts nine years. The honeymoon honeymoon The s b 80s 1 & p over the country’s education system dama over the country’s o The conservatives The who won a comfortable at the October majority 1996 g ( Greece acquires its its acquires Greece 9 rm rst elected socialist election in October returned ultimately reassumeultimately fi ht, many look back on that year and bemoan the mis-calibration look back on that year ht, many o y ute ute government ( PASOK) PASOK) ( government Andreas Andreas Papandreou. 0K lin andreou ste g costs and basic services est an p under the leadership of g p y ublic borrowing was too high, as was its in ll 99 is p By late 1992 corru Pa Economic scandal, a series of general strikes and fundamental of general strikes Economic scandal, a series d etter: the dowryetter: system was abolished, abortion le itious social reform itious social y its hosting of the 2004 Olym n 1 electing ex PASOK, with the PASOK, hindsi over the family over the minister of the drachma a the new Political S the new Political an earl including a wage freeze for civil servantsincluding a wage freeze and stee ruled for almost two decades two ruled for almost its and ref ued, and that, overnight, living became dis b The 21st Centur The Greece new millenium saw had already been denied them in 1999 sma b i utilit The 1 When Greece b A wran from existin government s ernment. By mid-1993 Mitsotakis su Mitsotakis ernment. By mid-1993 marriage and divorce were im marriage and divorce were de His on 26 June. NATO. US military US NATO. across Greece, including the redevelo That said, billions of euros ditch the drachma and nestle under the sta PASOK party elected was as Greece PASOK now often return Greece as to redressing the country 1981 smartly. rst time. time. rst fi protective trade trade protective for the to the wider world ectively removing removing ectively return to. return ff partition to to partition modern-day modern-day Greece joins the EU, The economy grows grows economy The e and Turkey in and Turkey the barb-wire the barb-wire the place they they the place town, a desert a desert town, were born and born and were barriers and opening opening and barriers banished from, from, banished in 1974. Greeks Greeks in 1974. The Green Line of silence where where silence of still peer through peer through still Cyprus is a ghost Cyprus is a ghost the clock stopped the clock stopped but are unlikely to to unlikely but are up the Greek economy separating Greece Greece separating

730 HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION 731 2007 consecutive term. consecutive held in September September in held Karamanlis returns returns Karamanlis

and the conservative General elections are to power for a second . - government of Kostas Kostas of government y p p- read ublic oy in p p b hew of oint in

p res p fi ld olice who p 2007 curb p ension reforms (the ne ublic debt, slow ’ p p Greece’s worst worst Greece’s who had come to olitical tangles in ( Vast Vast forest olice and a grou p 66 people perish. people 66 p and Epiros, causing elections held in Se onsible for wides decades. Thousands Thousands decades. lose their homes and p ecological disaster in in disaster ecological western Peloponnese p devastate much of the the of much devastate Evia parts of as well as

public workers’ salaries, but it was too too was but it salaries, workers’ public ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © ff rebombs at riot fi Georgios Papandreou asked the people for a for the people asked Papandreou Georgios e general strikes and blockades e general strikes albeit with a diminished majority , ect reforms that penalised the average Greek even even Greek average the that penalised ect reforms ice shooting of a 15-year-o ff l loyment, ballooning press, press, o p p osed radical labour and p res, which were res fi ro conservative government y the ) p b

ueezing of consumer credit took their toll. Public ueezing of consumer credit d q lans that analysts claim would hel p ce. In November 2011, Lucas Papademos – a former vice president of of president vice – a former Papademos Lucas 2011, In November ce. was widely criticised for its handling of the emergenc ffi ) rotested against p ation and the s rivatisation cit. Huge cuts followed, including 10% o including 10% followed, cuts Huge cit. fl (At the time this book went to time this book went the (At y youths outrage fi le p onded with tear gas. Concern continues over onded with tear gas. Concern continues over onse to severe summer b p

p p referendum on the EU bailout, then failed to form a coalition government and stepped and stepped government a coalition form to then failed bailout, on the EU referendum o from down Greece’s steering of chalice poisoned on the Bank – took Central the European duties.) and prime ministerial economy little too late and foreign creditors continued to demand ever higher interest rates for for rates higher interest ever demand to continued creditors foreign and late little too receive and Charybdis – to Scylla a real-life between stuck was Greece their loans. as the euro them toppling stop to essential absolutely which was bailout another yet e had to they currency, a credible a for longed Some revolution). towards citizens non-political further (pushing formerly would that Greece believe many however, currency); (the former the drachma to return no standing, with absolutely system and a monetary debt with massive be saddled still the case. if this was In 2009 a lethal cocktail of high public spending and widespread tax evasion, combined combined evasion, tax and widespread public spending high of cocktail a lethal 2009 In In economy. Greece’s cripple to threatened recession, global of crunch credit with the (half of billion package a US$145 to agreed countries eurozone fellow Greece’s 2010 – the conditions with strict though feet, on its back the country get to GDP) Greece’s impose to have would Papandreou, Georgios by lead still PASOK, ruling government, bloated Greece’s and reduce handouts these receive to reform of measures austere de SINK OR SWIM OR SINK Over recent years, a series of massiv inion soured further Karamanlis in 2007 when Kostas d thens following an alleged exchange between thens following an alleged exchange between ebt. The backlash against the government reached boiling eo estruction throughout Greece. Nevertheless, sna ower in 2004 Peace & Friendship Stadium, Athens p es es ember 2007 returned the conservatives or the city. However, rising unem However, or the city. e ng in » Konstandinos Karamanlis Konstandinos of teenagers. Youths hurled stones and of teenagers. Youths r d l A t p p r d f i December 2008, when urban rioting broke out across the country, December 2008, when urban rioting broke and o highlighted mounting electoral discontent. Hundreds of thousands of highlighted mounting electoral Hundreds discontent.

s ’ d ios ve g l ic of ing a rasive bl k 2011 b eor u ting the ar G p p p av Re Greek recession. Greek riots in Athens. A Despite loans the l under second EU and IMF unemployment and ( onia in northern to shrink with rising rising with shrink to economy continues continues economy bailout is granted to tion among state state among tion ving its a d l prop up the economy economy the up prop p amid fears of a second immigration across l riot waters, s in connection with the ) ega p ASOK ite the fact Alexander’s corru ll P p d the government, which some which the government, nancial nancial 2010 ressing concerns over Greece d fi ege p ll enge of reso cit are met ic negotiated between the two ic negotiated between fi ll our, Former Yugos Former our, p ons in Cy rovince of Mace b b p ing a ing committing €110 €110 committing with civil protest. Greece is granted granted is Greece d one heavily in the monastery’s favour, the monastery’s in one heavily a to ows another controversy that invo that controversy ows another g ( ll the biggest rocar bailout in history with d its fellow EU countries government to cut the the cut to government bloated de bloated million. Strict austerity austerity Strict million. measures by the Greek an neigh s in the lk d s towards EU-ascension, and is urging joint s towards EU-ascension, ayers. A general election held in Octoberayers. 2009, p , over the contentious issue of it ado , over the contentious p . ) stan ing for hy etween a monastery an ll 2009 ll b h Karamanlis’ term, saw term, saw h Karamanlis’ ache ri g s d l d as group. Thisas group. fo a sti FYROM national debt. national s. with its Ba ea ( ll on both sides of the political fence political sides of the on both ll ( inherits a can of p d ense of tax worms regarding result against the p conserva tives and etween the two nations to manage i nations to manage etween the two Kostas lis Karaman s borders. However, Turkey is ex Turkey s borders. However, b wins with a landslide ’ calls an early election. Georgios Papan dreou, PapanGeorgios orts Turkey’s ste orts Turkey’s Socialist PASOK, under under PASOK, Socialist ervative -swap -swap omatic hea andreou) take back the reins in a landslide win against the a landslide win against back the reins in andreou) take s d ationshi p pp n l pl i o an executives Macedonia Macedonia action nations via UN-mediated dialogue). Des nations via UN-mediated Greece intentions of nomenclature of Macedonia nomenclature of Macedonia d Neighbourly Relations Neighbourly to face the cha Greece continues an ongoing investigation regar investigation ongoing an l home of Pe Pa Siemens He Siemens at the ex c midway throu midway commentators believe to have believecommentators to have Greece, FYROM is still insisting Greece’s favourite son is from their favourite insisting Greece’s Greece, FYROM is still Greece neighbourly. are more these days Relations with Turkey country. su re 2008 nationwide. alleged exchange a 15-year-old boy in between police and Athens following an Police shoot and kill series of urban riots youths. This sparks a

732 HISTORY THE MODERN GREEK NATION 733

Ancient Greek Culture When the Roman Empire assimilated Greece it did so with consider- able respect and idealism. The Romans in many ways based themselves on the Ancient Greeks, absorbing their deities (and renaming them), lit- erature, myths, philosophy, fi ne arts and architecture. So what made the Ancient Greeks so special? Mythology Ancient Greece revolved around a careful worship of 12 central gods and goddesses, all of which played a major role in the mythos (mythology). Each city-state had its own patron god or goddess, to be appeased and fl attered, while on a personal level a farmer might make sacrifi ce to the The World of the goddess Demeter to bless his crops, or a fi sherman to Poseidon to bring Ancient Greeks him fi sh and safe passage on the waves. (2002), by Greece is as dripping in myth as it is classical history. For many of us archaeologists the fantastical stories of Heracles and Odysseus we heard as kids still John Camp and Elizabeth Fisher, linger in our imagination. Standing in the ancient ruins of an acropolis is a broad and in- peering across the watery horizon, it’s not diffi cult to picture the Kraken depth look at how (Poseidon’s pet monster) rising from the Aegean, nor to imagine that the Greeks have fi shing boat you see heading into the sunset as Jason’s Argo en route to left their imprint Colchis for the Golden Fleece. The average Greek is fi ercely proud of their on politics, philosophy, myths and will love entertaining you with a list of the gods, but they’ll theatre, art, love it even more if you know a few of them yourself. Following is a quick medicine and guide to the gods and the myths (and for more information, see also A architecture. Dodecanese Guide to Mythology, p 518). The Ancient Pantheon » Zeus (Jupiter) Heavyweight champ of Mt Olympus, lord of the skies and master of disguise in pursuit of mortal maidens. Wardrobe includes shower of gold, bull, eagle and swan. » Poseidon (Neptune) God of the seas, master of the mists and younger brother of Zeus. He dwelt in a glittering underwater palace. » Hera (Juno) Protector of women and family, the queen of heaven is also the embattled wife of Zeus. She was the prototype of the jealous, domineering wife. » Hades (Pluto) God of death, he ruled the underworld, bringing in newly dead with the help of his skeletal ferryman, Charon. Serious offenders were sent for torture in Tartarus, while heroes enjoyed eternal R&R in the Elysian Fields. » Athena (Minerva) Goddess of wisdom, war, science and Guardian of Athens. The antithesis of Ares, Athena was deliberate and, where possible, diplomatic in the art of war. Heracles, Jason (of Jason and the Argonauts fame) and Perseus all benefited from her patronage.

- - - - -

). d ff d- e o ing d , er one y 736 Hera h d ( dd mai i e gui ew ew fl d b were h d

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d fl an Cretan labyrinth, have felt at home felt have ’ . Not surprisingl . y d witchcra dy mankind y cla f s on hand to smooth s on hand to f the oxen of Geryon; f y and fire, this deformed this deformed and fire, ay; s ay; . , the crazed half-bull ). d y ) ) d e wasn he remained unmarried, he remained toda tapestry, that stretches tapestry, h hrodite y l S his troo is stea him to p 454 736 ing the man-eating Mares h d d l p some say the we some say en s own to the farthest reaches yta an (p Theseus, aided by Princess l d d killed the monster. (Daeda d killed the monster. d ’ ) o Wh myths; even to myths; t was t was k I irst woman o woman irst ; stea pp f es in one ll f as a one of seven men an l bl turns spiteful and magnanimous, she magnanimous, and turns spiteful ympus ! l y their stories to refresh your memory, e waves. e waves. arrow. arrow. hers were the evils o the evils were hers cue the Trojan War Trojan cue the ht their brands. ht their brands. d time – an f ( h e of Hi d g ll himse dl d weak spot – his heel – thus killing him spot – weak . y King Minos an y King Minos in the Gree y . These included slaying the Nemean Lion . These the Nemean included slaying e on t turing the Ceryneian Hin l ) b d

o p ) h d earing hero of ancient Greece. The a bow an a bow ather ce to the Minotaur ce to the Minotaur f h d fi od of craftsmanship, metallurg craftsmanship, od of see the colour section, his father and a brilliant inventor unteere ( oddess of the hunt and twin sister of A of and twin sister the hunt of oddess G l ( reece could li could reece wax, his father instructe the bellicose Spartans and ma Spartans the bellicose ra; ca g e foun oddess of love and beauty. The curvy lady of the shell the of lady curvy The beauty. and love of oddess ) his , en out once he nd his way y , ursue G d d b fi Messenger of the gods, patron saint of travellers, the travellers, of saint patron the gods, of Messenger G Zeus made the world’s made the world’s Zeus d ot wit

p f he turing the Cretan Bu ans. ) ) h T g p oddess of the hearth, she protected state fires in city halls fires state she protected the hearth, of oddess i taining the Gir l G Zeus b rate ring of King Minos of Crete. ring of King Minos Once insi f ) Vulcan y the start of that rich, fantastica eaning the Augean Sta oo HERCULES b p l l ( God of war. Zeus’ least favourite of his progen of favourite least Zeus’ war. God of ( h e s; ca Venus l s ) or man. Inside that box o Inside that box or man. ( ave been born w been born ave d ff f from which none had returned es; o Mercury h ( associated with the sinister Hecate, patroness o patroness Hecate, with the sinister associated airs o airs f – are to od of music, the arts and fortune-telling, Apollo was also the god of god the also was Apollo and fortune-telling, arts the music, od of ( d l Vesta y ff ( G , patron saint of wild animals. B wild animals. of saint patron , an expert s an expert to . Mars s of Crete y es. d ( ff d soccer soccer i t derided son o t derided son d l g f ate e of feathers an ian Bir l ool of thread to the Lernian Hy l t an d f-man o p d l the way from the mists of Mt O the way h Hermes Hermes Hephaestus Hestia Apollo Artemis (Diana) Ares Aphrodite Aphrodite ha ut this is on ll unishment ig amon story itse enflaming hearts and causing trouble trouble and causing hearts enflaming an ironicall labyrinth of Diome Livingston Jonathan thinks he’s sun. Boys will be boys, Icarus midday blinded him with madness of Ha Paris’ arrow towards Achilles’ onl Achilles’ towards arrow Paris’ handsome one with a winged hat and sandals. He was alwa He was hat and sandals. one with a winged handsome stealing the Apples of the Hesperides; and capturing Cerberus stealing the Apples of the Hesperides; was sai was lus is said to be the legendary architect of King Minos ICARUS Along with Deadalus thian Boar; c p THESEUS The vo Athenian hero ens in the annual sacri ha HERACLES HERACLES The most ce The Myths, the Myths the Myths, The of a Some of the greatest stories books and rary writers reinterpret them for children’s b » » p » few of the most famous heroes an a » l » » » was set his family killing for mistakenly 12 labours of penitence ma over the a over Ariadne (who had a crush on him courtesy of A Ariadne (who and o a s was closel was unfortunate husband, Hephaestus, she and her cherubic son Eros Eros son and her cherubic she Hephaestus, husband, unfortunate from where citizens of of citizens where from invio the c Ares was worshipped b worshipped was Ares the Palace of Knossos of Knossos the Palace Athena H e r a Poseidon

734 ANCIENT GREEK CULTURE MYTHOLOGY ANCIENT GREEK CULTURE THE GOLDEN AGE OF DRAMA 735 Hermes Aphrodite Apollo

. ------s y a a a a k ’ d d d is ic es so us e at sy l g p ing d ac a, a p b edi b olis, p ll eech b d e Ae p O e p k i p l s head). ced to ced Oedi ’ Thes hear the fi ( ). With ). With the mira a hot ‘ d rome her head d

lace, Thiv ff e d s, choruses d s es p free s e in the ll p l 736 ate 5th- an lance. Armed e on the d d l t on the si g ed out his eyes ro l ueen of Thiva pl it a Socrates were us succeeded in p atron of the arts hoc cut o o q le ui

d pp p p p g ramatists eo g b d oth, d p l ecome a com So b eginning of the inevi us ri d to save An to save the Persians won, Eu the Persians s an d killed was his father b ’ p refer t s from Hermes, Perseus s from Hermes, ato an d d p l l s eft their hometown an to ace. Some historians a l a l ro y encourage d l ha t at the Theatre of Dionysos pl lar es an l renaissance that has never er he d d e, P o kd l d l g i not in the mysticism of the not in the mysticism ac p ch d ominant genres of theatre were so even the erce s b . a fi with the tura d d

l theatres were ves. The great d erent d l d ff e foun e d i ian ying san ying b y unsheathe ical d fl d l p igious ritua l ss y efeating the Persian hor efeating the Persian isation an a cu l l the stran en arta. It’s often said that Athens’ Golden arta. It’s d arate, bird-boy drowns. And the moral the And drowns. bird-boy arate, d nown actor was a man ca g om to share their thoughts an d p p k sacri nal moments before being hinx and so gained the thes d fi en-aire air of p hanes, Euri d histicate p p p p see also the colour section of the Acro hinx (a winged lion with a woman hinx (a winged lion with ern cla ( rst p hic oracle that he would one day slay his fa slay one day hic oracle that he would a fi army army ress themse d osophers Aristot ecting travellers and citizens a riddle; if the and citizens ecting travellers l p d k . t hide…having been abandoned at birth, been abandoned t hide…having p p ’ y so amis an s e of Dram een a vast l l olis , it was short arge o k b l an p g g , Aristo e Paris in the 1930s, Athens magnetise e Paris to maximise soun p a ) Sa k d ay ex Gree y. The y. b d theatre from re d d d of Western civi of Western . d have have k erive the wor e. On discoverin ity ca ity for some 40 years an elf ere d l ld g s i d ne b hy esigne roc fi – in fact mo artist or writer worth their sa b e d d y d it in a ramatists were cutting their thespian c ramatists were cutting the age of Pericles’, after the statesman and the age of Pericles’, come ‘ e d e ective shield to avoid Medusa’s stare. Havin Medusa’s ective shield to avoid d d s of the d fl b ll century BC Athens ha d S re S h , he killed a rude stranger and then discovered the city was and then discovered the city , he killed a rude stranger to the great city of wis to the great city ay wou (the Oresteia t ) ua d d t answer it they were dashed on the rocks. Oedi d ’ 5 q y an ominate e osop ucing new trains of thought roote s, with increasing ent. An l d d us ll e d e the ll l y outnum ha l , and their comedies and tragedies reveal a great deal about the i l cross the country l themes, free thought. Li y-4th-century BC phi secrete ) h ) e to l A d d d hi p ho ith an invisi ex es of Marathon an es of Marathon 76 lagued by a murderous S lagued by a murderous us learned from the Del rincess bound to a rock in her rincess bound een e ou can run but you can n n nd exiled him nd that his new wife was in fact his mother, Oedi nd that his new wife was in fact his mother, t the foot of the Acro n ar he of the ancient Gree all this era le’; such was the diversity of its achievements. such was the diversity The era startedle’; with ouldn ow might hear the actors on stage. The o Thebes rage rave able war between Athens and S able war between her and marry his mother. On the journey On back to his birth her and marry his mother. rom which we orm of entertainment.They were to great min sea monster. Medusa turns the sea monster to stone, Perseus gets the girl to stone, Perseus turns the sea monster Medusa sea monster. vast head of snakes she could turn a man to stone with a sin she could turn a man head of snakes intro as the new Greek mind focused on lo but rather in rationality, myths, b is: listen to your father. is: listen hand in marria Age is the Ph W e r t f c a schy R f a p a of ta t r c w c tl t a The Golden A In t c a t ( p OEDIPU Y p w a p PERSEU (p Medusa the gorgon, was to kill impossible task Perseus’ Seagull…glue melts, feathers se feathers melts, Seagull…glue The creature gave unsus The creature gave the S solving the riddle, felled of hi used his re

- - - o ll ), d e es to d es – y, it iose pl l d arge uiry, l d bl erfec- nown q ssure ist, he fi l p k , ea oliticians d y 5th cen- s the most d hic oracle, cient p l ffi p a face an p this p erio d 469–399 BC in gran ( p an i d ods, but before ods, but te onsible for doc onsible ecame yet more e d g . p p airs and matters b b on to create ff o y ma p d ere ll ython who guarded on the Parthenon on the Parthenon d u p uctionismis sti that p lew and threw it int d II, King of Macedon, II, King of ocrates ocrates ours. From this ours. From s d e ition. Perha its youth su ut in the ear S p irit of rational in en Age animation. As tem p ll d b d p d ated vanity. Even dead, dead, Even vanity. ated ld re fl l ersonal a riests. Citizens, iefs u ing Archaic usts, catering to the vanity l p p esh. d b fl ucate e d form, the tra nown as the Parthenon Mar nown as the Parthenon bl many were ro many rece e. Most statues were create statues were e. Most d e d k d p the Romans a d othetica bl ll hi is the site of the Del ression an p ace in Greece in the 6th century BC ost to us. Consi tors were ca p l p p an lp p od, fall into a trance, and allow herself hysician to Phili hysician to ias, whose re ess an p een p d of hy Aristotle (384–322end of the BC), at the hi olitics. The greatest gift of the Athenian l , his star student, was res student, , his star b continue t dd ) nest from the Go p hts, and without his work in books like the like work in books without his hts, and ject in mar ershi d fi p f the earth. After he es in mar g roducing noxious va e of Del b en d o d g p d ea ollo, when looking for an earthly abode, found l have have reted by attendant reted by attendant p or go ersonal ollo. While in this state the sibyl raved and her ollo. While in this state the sibyl raved p tors were taught to successfu on symmetry an ld d a schoo p ture an p reatest, most noble citizen, noble most reatest, d aw, aw, lp d Persian Wars – now Wars Persian egan to gather g l

lp tor was Phei d b y the statues of the d 427–347 BC 427–347 fumes that the sibyl, or Pythia (a clairvoyant crone, l . His stu . His and another two will grow in its place. Heracles Heracles place. its in will grow two and another rich men. Later sti ( lp ff ar go g d an ehin d l the centre orate carvings, scu k b ture ecte focuse o e erings of nu as among the b scu ortant Greece. Its beginnings are shroud oracle in ancient of scu , as scu p d a d d l lp k l p , they wou d eft l eness of their su oome e . Plato . Plato articu k m d his teacher’s thou his teacher’s y , ha on them. During the 5th century BC the craft i d scu p rate l i hers to modern-day thought is their s thought hers to modern-day g a e res e e p l b he ossessed by A p d d b pl e

p d l iticians an osiu l ica to p ie eo ld ouro o histicate d ss d p k p iefs u m culptur p

a l eman icting the Gree hiloso hysics, zoology, ethics and hysics, zoology, y s without which we might still be in the shadows of conscience. without which we might Golden Age, was the tury BC, artists sought to create ex re he the most im or seer) would sit above on a tri a revere a wrote ‘The of Athens that unless city-state as a warning to the Republic’ its famous Gree the chasm it began to rot, The Oracle of Del villa the modern-day Near A some say ed in myth; d create a p p S Cl umentin p and reason. Athens’ Athens’ reason. and use of the entrance t and kings – for a fee – consulted the sibyl on wou with the ren are ce to be and the tutor of Alexanderand the tutor Great and focused the his gifts on astronomy, a home here but not before doing battle with the with a home here but not before doing battle mumblings were inter tionist schoo was forced to drink hemlock for his disbelief in the old in the old his disbelief hemlock for to drink was forced S garments. Former so came intoxicatin The three-headed dog of hell, he guards the entrance to the underworld – the underworld to the entrance he guards hell, dog of The three-headed This half-man-half-bull mutant leads a life of existential angst in the abysmal in the abysmal angst existential of a life mutant leads This half-man-half-bull One-eyed giant. Odysseus and his crew were trapped in the cave of one such of in the cave trapped were and his crew Odysseus giant. One-eyed She of the bad hair day, punished by the gods for her in for the gods punished by hair day, bad the She of Cut one of its nine heads o nine heads its Cut one of TOP FIVE MYTHICAL CREATURES MYTHICAL FIVE TOP Medusa her blood is lethal. Cyclops Polyphemus. cyclops, Cerberus or out. in no-one gets under his watch Minotaur human of morsel the occasional only by tempered labyrinth, Hydra with his burning brand. stump each cauterising by the problem solved

736 ANCIENT GREEK CULTURE SCULPTURE ANCIENT GREEK CULTURE THE ORACLE OF DELPHI 737 . - ) a p hia t the 205 y p p see ( lace the P retty retty p with some even , p ed the history of the p ast the . p ers arrive, or late afternoon, hi sha p pp hecies arta and Athens made generous p p s still something and enigmatic ’ ro p eror, Del eror, p ollo, and on erience, not least because the accom erience, not least because p p (p 77 ) Built ) in AD 161 by Roman Herodes Atticus.77 (p in the mountains is so in the mountains is so p as did nations like Persia as did nations like rescient , . p (p 155 ) One of the best-preserved155 Classical (p Greek structures. (p 76 ) Once held seating for76 spread 17,000 over 64 tiers, (p hi le of A (p 307 ) A colossal, 3rd-century-BC ancient site. ancient 3rd-century-BC colossal, A ) 307 (p p reserved, there p ollonian messages; weaving your way through the your way ollonian messages; weaving p p (p 207 ) A well-preserved 4th-century-BC theatre, 4th-century-BC well-preserved A ) 207 (p rosaic. City-states like S like rosaic. City-states p ast the tem (p 145 ) Dating from Classical times; could seat up to 20,000 people. 20,000 to up seat could times; Classical from Dating ) 145 (p p

p Theatre of Dodoni of Theatre Argos Delphi Ancient Theatre of Dionysos of Theatre Theatre of Epidavros of Theatre Odeon of Herodes Atticus

» » » » » » Visiting today is a magical ex Visiting today MUST-SEE THEATRES MUST-SEE as destroyed by a Christian em orld with its often eerily stablishing treasuries on the site. For more than six centuries, until it the site. For stablishing treasuries on limb u ontributions to the oracle Best seen early morning before the day-tri Best seen early morning nying modern village high u nying c used to receive her A e w w of state: be it whether to go to war, whether to colonise a new country or of state: be it whether to go to war, subjects more c mountain. Strangely otherworldly about Del still-standing treasuries to the site of the Pythian games higher u still-standing treasuries 738

The Greek Way of Life The Greek way of life came under unprecedented international scrutiny in the wake of Greece’s 2011 sovereign debt crisis. As Greece negotiated its way out of a default that threatened to rock the EU, the blame game turned personal (and occasionally nasty), with the Greeks painted as lazy, reckless, free-spending and corrupt. The reality of Greece and Greeks today is far more complex. For every grain of hard and inconvenient truth exposed about Greece’s chronic dysfunctionality, there were as many populist cultural stereotypes and Greece has unfair assassinations of the national character. For every tax evading become a largely lawyer or lazy public-sector offi cial, there are hard-working Greek fami- urban society, lies struggling to make ends meet. with more than two-thirds of But there is no denying that the crisis engulfi ng Greece is not just the 10.7 million political and economic, but social and, even, cultural. After his election population living as Prime Minister, George Papandreou conceded his beleaguered nation in cities and less had been mired in corruption, cronyism and clientelistic practices, and than 15% living warned that Greece’s problems would be solved by restructuring the on the islands. A third live in the country, not just its debt. Greater Athens Growing social unrest, mass demonstrations and violent clashes with area. police in Athens (see p 730) have shaken a deeply divided Greek society. The standard of living for the average Greek improved beyond all recognition in the 30 years since Greece joined the EU (see p 730) . But increasingly aspirational lifestyles seemed to be out of sync with aver- age incomes and rising living costs, and ultimately unsustainable on easy credit and dosis (instalment schemes). Like their government, many Greeks were living beyond their means. Most Greek workers have been aff ected by the EU-sanctioned aus- terity measures, from cuts to pensions and wages to indirect tax hikes. Shops are closing and spending on entertainment has been curtailed. As Greece undertakes a massive privatisation drive, drastic public- sector cuts and fundamental tax and structural reforms, Greeks are

SOCIETY facing a diffi cult and uncertain future and once again their resilience is being tested. Social & Family Life Greek society remains dominated by the family and kinship. Greeks are gregarious and enjoy a rich communal life, eating out regularly and fi lling the country’s myriad cafes and bars. They travel and socialise in packs, with family or their pareaa (companions). In the early evenings, especially in summer, people of all ages take their volta (evening walk), walking along seafront promenades or through town centres, dressed up and refreshed from an afternoon siesta (albeit a dying institution). Many visitors are struck by Greece’s THE GREEK WAY OF LIFE SOCIAL & FAMILY LIFE 739 the highest. Greek wages wages Greek actually work actually work counterparts. counterparts. Debunking Debunking the costs amongst amongst costs their European their European meter research research meter and salaries are are and salaries myth of the lazy the lazy of myth suggests Greeks Greeks suggests lowest and living and living lowest Greek, Eurobaro- Greek, longer hours than hours longer amongst Europe’s Europe’s amongst

- s y p g ar p ht in g arents ite the p p . uestions Greeks uacy state of the es and universit q often family-run q g nished buildin , arents, rather than has wiped the opti- nancial distress artments for each fi fi holidays, elections holidays, p p g ua liations, des liations, rst g ffi le of all ages live it u fi p arents work or socialise. n women are brou p g durin g es for cities or abroad. Even g erceived inade h forei p g late socialising with their elds (such as doctors and lawyers). Greece has the Greece and lawyers). as doctors elds (such fi p schools) for lan ortant role in daily life, with grand g rovide homes for their children when p p for the es are bustlin art of Greece they come from p g ortance to education, sending children to p p ts. tutorin fi homes, thou ( g

a arents in villages. lays an im an lays p p . left their ancestral villa ected and disillusioned youth looks set to bear the brunt of years of over- of years the brunt of bear to set looks youth disillusioned and ected ff g rontistiri f stem look after is that children their elderly ff y l oo ). n them to nursin ch s Young people remain highly dependent on family – about half of women under 27 and under 27 women – about half of highly dependent on family people remain Young found Labour) of Confederation General the Greek for (conducted survey 2008 A in demonstra- and involved radicalised increasingly become people have young Many Overeducated and underemployed middle-class youth face less jobs, lower pay and pay lower jobs, less face youth middle-class and underemployed Overeducated an entitle- breeding for society people and Greek young ‘spoilt’ blame While some which by problem, unemployment youth chronic Greece’s exacerbated The crisis has produc- needs, market with labour touch of as out long been seen have Universities Dubbed the €700 generation – after the average net monthly starting salary for for salary starting monthly net the average – after generation the €700 Dubbed the country’s in crisis, opportunity talk of Despite g laying nearby. laying p half of men under 30 years still live with their parents. live still 30 years men under half of – nearly generation the €700 of part population was the working of that about a quarter with jobs in part-time less even for people work young Many 34. 18 to aged those of 70% bene no social-security the phenom- note, lighthearted a more On ). 730 p turned violent (see tions that have the production into the time it went though by sit-com, a television inspired enon even cut the minimum youth measures as austerity Generation, the €592 renamed was show employment. youth boost further to wage highest number of students in the EU studying abroad – and the highest graduate un- graduate and the highest – abroad studying in the EU students number of highest graduates as more is on the rise years recent of drain The brain in Europe. employment Greece. leaving are declining living standards. declining living teem- the cafes jobs, demeaning and refuse lack initiative graduates where ment culture failings. systemic fundamental belie some youth carefree ing with seemingly 34-year-olds. 25 to olds and 22.3% for 24-year to 16 40% for to close was April 2011 saturated in already ing graduates mism and sense of possibility engendered by the resounding success of the Athens 2004 2004 Athens the of success the resounding by engendered possibility of mism and sense year. that same triumph Cup football euphoric European and Greece’s Olympic Games spending and economic mismanagement by previous generations. previous by mismanagement economic and spending and a future, out of cheated 30s feel and early in their 20s Greeks – many graduates their dreams. out selling politicians of country’s the accuse Greece’s Greece’s disa GENERATION – €700 The are small of Greek businesses vast majority Greeks attach great im Greeks attach Extended family Greeks retain identities and a strong regional erations. Parents strive to erations. Parents ill ask a stranger is what p nd other excuses One of the for homecomings. fter- t nightclubs, while children stay u t nightclubs, while children stay ou see nts often looking after grandchildren while hild above their own (thus the number of un hild above their own (thus the number of onsi he country’s remotest villa remotest he country’s hey get families building a married, with many o look after elderly education s The trade-o entrance subjects u to make majority havin majority a t a w e c t t c y a vibrant street life and relaxed dining scene. Peo o or

. t y ll ’ d l- w l ll- ive l roud , and foot. ne ) ers in p ove to d d icate ing on l -to- k l serving efensive k d e b istic an loyment, oxes. De- . l ite sma However, an d d l jaunts to p ( d

e they wi en d o nd in even l d e marrying (good (good y o ll fi p og status in l p pl d (good (good en rst day rst fi k er eo , whi eye contact with d . p atant y state their opin- d

for your house or d one of the safest y in s l on han usinesses , le around them. e phones an d d bl (good digestion) digestion) (good ll l d b p aunting their new- s are sti

i kaloriziko fl nd work in another nd ai society. Men Men society. k fi d b y l l eo p free kalo mina kalo ing wee ecia s an p e avoi ll ate an l l k ensioners or wor p b atriotic, nationa p e (go with the good). (go are famously house- are famously p e at home ) l d s wi

society, they are society, y ife. They are generous hosts rivate life and why you don l k irit. They a wor have l l out their un ite ta ing d p in fami p l atest mo l kali honepsi kali b l d oys are waite itica dignity and sense of honour and sense of dignity b l (

rofessiona

ent s d o out staring an p me to kalo me to (good summer) and the end of the and the end of summer) (good d changes, Gree b po e forces. l (good work) and challenges with and challenges work) (good e fervent d d en a b , but also but also , p d tures where peop e to university or to or to to university ays of excess, of es ays othes, the ilotim l ing, an l f g d

socia acity to enjoy acity k (good entertainment). On the On entertainment). (good pl matters rather than engage in matters r can d l p ance to strugg is d e oin eeping young peop eeping igious mores. oth at home an oth at home d k bl g l k b (good week), each month each week), (good kalo kalokeri kalokeri kalo limits, from your e ca ff kales doulies kales re . or coo so e of the Athenian e bl ynamic throws up some interesting para some interesting throws up ynamic (bon apetit) the comings and goings of l ersona d l

esigner c k ) ld d wary of outsi haracter p d d en to consumerism with gusto, e their ancestry sense of cu can give them a smug e l an . l ves on thei C k at least the older generation at least the older l l argumentative, most Gree rone to s ( l s are unashame out ifesty ign their governments an d p l l kali diaskedasi kali k b e an criticism an (hospitality, welcome, shelter), which you will welcome, shelter), which you will (hospitality, ita l p tura a kali orexi kali aa ) l p nown for their in an envia e many Western cu Western e many th with k lk ears no resem d e–fema k kali evdomada kali l roblems are on the rise, with an increase in unem roblems are on the rise, ride in their culinary skills. It’s still relatively rare for men to be still relatively rare culinaryride in their It’s skills. l ren, to how much you earn or what you i y ma b reek e this is changing among is changing e this l l p p l ta s have ta s have e themse ld in housewor onistic k d d G d e an d ess ow wages are a ow wages ean ca iloxeni s are wea l ri l d f oorest househo p superiority, they remain insecure a superiority,

ve k d onos (good winter). When you purchase something it’s it’s something purchase When you winter). (good p l l p

ir k ancing cu Social Gree They thrive on news, gossip an Forthright an Forthright In the face of fast-trac In The ma Greek women It’s uncommon for Greek children to move out of home before they before of home out to move children Greek for uncommon are It’s d out externa l ite the machismo, it is veryite the machismo, a matriarcha much e a b (good rest) or rest) (good p h and commenting on ater, ater, invo attitu the he t have chi have ions an the new Euro cars. They are homelessness and once-rare violent crime in Athens homelessness and once-rare rural Greece. strangers, Gree ( ethnocentric. Whi tura the subjects are o talk. Few b The Gree l an shoes. Un married, unless theymarried, are a and take and take s My Euro food and entertainment, and have a live-for-today outlook. a live-for-today food and entertainment, and have Girls are more involved in domestic chores, though young Athenian women chores, though young in domestic involved Girls are more to be found in the gymare more likely salon than in the kitchen or beauty give the impression that they rule the roost but, in reality, it’s the women it’s that theygive the impression in reality, rule the roost but, who often show run the merci city. Whi city. foun (good strength). A favourite for farewells is farewells for favourite A strength). (good kalo himona kalo kali xekourasi kali and social and social have-nots. have-nots. of the week they’ll wish you wish you they’ll the week of summer brings of the start while month), holidays fate) and a new business is greeted with is greeted business and a new fate) dynami kali and GOOD WISHES it stems Whether daily life. of features the endearing one of are expressions Well-wishing occa- every a wish for have to seem Greeks will, good of or an excess superstition from wish you just won’t They sion. many family- many Athens virtu- Athens highlight and void between between void shut up shop, shut up shop, are the year’s the year’s are the haves and the haves to the islands, the islands, to run businesses run businesses ally shuts down down ally shuts with a profound with a profound Stark Stark economic disparities are a are disparities beaches or their beaches and people head and people head reality in Greece, in Greece, reality mid-August when mid-August Summer Summer holidays ancestral villages. villages. ancestral

740 THE GREEK WAY OF LIFE THE GREEK CHARACTER THE GREEK WAY OF LIFE THE GREEK CHARACTER 741

are ( worry worry ( (street (street De-stressing De-stressing komboloï komboloï €10,000 and €10,000 rare ones are are ones rare and rarely do. and rarely fashion state- fashion obliged to join to obliged tradition but a tradition beads) are not are beads) though are not though are for males aged aged males for military military service the Greek army, army, the Greek ment and a skill komboloï komboloï just an enduring just to master. Some to master. 19 to 50. Women Women 50. 19 to worth more than more worth Greece has com- Greece collector’s items. collector’s are accepted into into accepted are pulsory 12-month pulsory

. . ------y y y periptera periptera lays ara uires p p arent q p ortunit le riding atronage oliticians . e phones p p l roclaimed p i pp p b eo arking is the p . p roach of West pp etitive, trans sed and the monar p p (intertwined), regularly raises its head. its raises regularly (intertwined), colla orted moves to eliminate olitical instability that onl olitical instability edience extends to lax at p p b pp lans and are notoriously late lans and are notoriously p olitical connections and inter hts are almost sacrosanct and g p arency International found 13% arency International ical surly civil servants con lack p airs. The is black-market economy p ff nes, wearing a seatbelt is treated as olitician tried to drive home during diaplekomena diaplekomena fi ueue for surgery to dealing with the to 30% of the country’s GDP to 30% of the country’s p ride Greeks have in their homes rarel ride Greeks have q p lace to p a weak civil society evasion based on tax rease the wheels of the system in 2008) , p g mets as they chat on their mo itality and generosity seems to extinguish and generosity itality l erceived over-regulated a p p ite hefty ite hefty ing the p airs. You will often see people standing outside outside people standing see will often You airs. ublic-sectordistributions. The jobs or EU fund oint one ermits (Trans ff p ted state of a p p p p aces. The notion of the greater good often syche. The p ontaneity to making to making ontaneity (little envelope of cash) remains a common way to of cash) remains a common way envelope (little p ersonal interests, and there is little sense of collec is little ersonal interests, and there y p ersonal networks had become entrenched, ersonal networks ii p p here, where your ty of a friend or family member working within the sys of a friend or family member working within iven bribes to p p g ect for the state and its institutions, deriving from years of atronage and make Greece more com Greece more atronage and make ublic s . p p p refer s on time is often referred to as ‘being English’) e, from jum akelak p f p p s for coveted

es, carrying their he onsibility – a onsibility ddle to s ublic s p k otism an acce fi i p u p p (the hel cient b o tional inconvenience; creative and inconsiderate tional inconvenience; ce or building ffi ffi n The contentious entangled relationship between media owners, journalists, big busi- journalists, media owners, between entangled relationship The contentious p e Personal freedom and democratic ri Personal Making headway with Greece’s bloated bureaucracy often re with Greece’s headway Making Greeks The hos renowned Greek d ness and the government, coined coined and the government, ness kiosks) reading the day’s juicy front-page headlines from the gallery of daily papers daily papers of gallery the from headlines front-page juicy the day’s reading kiosks) given stations TV and newspapers of number has a disproportionate Greece displayed. TV national and seven dailies) sports (including 10 national dailies population – 30 its repre- papers with partisan, openly mostly are Greeks, most like Newspapers, networks. The line between communist. to conservative from views political of the gamut senting and commentators to dedicated reams more with blurred, opinion is often and news broadcast- public straight-shooting the more of the exception With news. diatribe than socie- by is dominated TV and parochialism. sensationalism towards leans news TV ers, talking heads with music and multiple screens dramatic by and punctuated scandals ty time). (usually shouting at the same Given they invented democracy, it’s no surprise Greeks are political animals who gorge who gorge animals political are Greeks no surprise it’s democracy, invented they Given a current and on news THE MEDIA CIRCUS oxes of the Greek n o n nd ne nd reliance on nd little res nd little xtends to rn nations. An undercurrent of civil diso st grou ntrenched stimated by various studies at u nded in the 1970s, when the last dictatorshi ut red ta hy was abolished. By this time itude to road rules. Des here is an aversion to the here is an aversion em). Merit has taken second has taken em). Merit ax o he outcry over measures to address Greek debt, when he ive res turning u or much-needed cultural change and su oreign masters and meddlers, civil war and motor second in the of Greeks had t a t e t e c t a e meso f e c a a Civil Societ and had a residual mistrust of authority long Greeks have a t f e d e t ( ventional notions of customer service. This is one of the many ‘We all ate it together’. Yet many also saw the crisis as an o also saw many Yet all ate it together’. ‘We infam norm; dangerous overtaking is rife; and you’ll often see

------y k p d l- l l is eo- te ion ar p er l p ll p e. A arked ld ecome p anians Gree p b nation laces to k rung u women lb alo- d p p k e, with CDs on the s, A p ling strikes aling strikes d y in rura d the economy the economy Thess ll ublic p pp an y Gree p afterthe e l ren of migrants. b ee k entity an entity , the majority are , the majority ecia k ld ) rocess). Greece’s in rocess). Greece’s d ags an p oo p i l Eastern Euro b in 2011 they located in 2011 immigration system eft l ut as they see k d p d

ools had been declared b d p et matches in Athens car syche, with trade-union Athens and Athens usinesses have s usinesses have k on the is orn chi p b k b - esigner ans an efore migrants are acce k gateway to Euro gateway d cric l b lk fringe, the powerhouses rmly one of l e d the voi fi k s wor ll rocesses an ega

en d fi p ll k garian women l es notions of Gree og fa og . d um fl d l ri m ools – in one swoo b s ecoming common, es y homogenous society since has p l from a nation of emigration to one of im ers ania, the Ba b d k ts at banning smoking in ts at banning smoking ia an . Greece is home to more than one mi only 324 swimming only 324 lb xing scandal that led to charges against against charges that led to xing scandal itchen-han l p b ( s that have made news footage around the s that have fi ean k ong way to go ong way our force, Chinese ow asy p arge l l p l b ho critici l Athens, along with AEK along with Athens, a p tura l ish y s a l - in Athens. Bu l l . As with countries such as Germany, citizenshi . As with countries such as Germany, na ll ll d ecome the main i o d e l b ticu reeks l . ). so ) ainfu act. Creative measures to tackle endemic tax-dodging try to integrate into mainstream society, community to community tryto integrate into mainstream society, istanis gather for wee l G p ice, xeno p k d

ages, Po mu marriages are d d ll 730 d oses elds two teams in the European Champions League. Champions League. the European in teams elds two ly fi Pa p an legal, illegal and of indeterminate status p eing teste ( d p art of life. Police bear the brunt of the anti-establishment senti art of life. Police reju b f have sett f have ur l p p e there is sti see p irthright, raising issues for the Gree l ( b . rawn internati rawn uate an s vertent d conomic migrants exist on the socia q

k d E Greece has a Protesting is ingrained in the national Protesting It’s taken several taken attem It’s Whi s e over Greece, African haw ity are ity ominate the manua ar remote border or arriving on Greece’s le streaming over the Turkish y fringe anarchist grou d l ll economic migrants from A migrants more than 16,000 of them more than 16,000 of them in remote vi going. Mixe erance, make any im any make eas where Eastern Euro a a d a p p The New The New the 1990s, In Greece change migration. What was a most ha ment, which in recent years has escalated to the violent clashes s ment, which in recent years has escalated to the b streets an not a ha activism, rolling and often mass demonstrations and cri drowned in the have boats (many islands on rickety routine for tax included using satellite images of northernincluded using satellite Athens’ neighbourhoods to locate undeclared swimming ina citizenshi there is recognition that they into the community, world cials and a two-week halt to all football in June 2011. in all football halt to cials and a two-week rst division is dominated by the big clubs of the league: Olympiakos of of Olympiakos league: the of the big clubs by is dominated division rst ffi fi le o le fi Football’s Football’s Greece basketball is in better shape, with Panathinaikos with Panathinaikos shape, is in better basketball Greece Since Greece’s astounding football victory in the 2004 European Cup, it has re- Cup, European the 2004 in victory football astounding Greece’s Since of Greeks Greeks of largest city city largest Athens and Athens is the third- If the streets have gone quiet, you can’t get a taxi or you hear a mighty roar coming from from coming roar a mighty hear or you a taxi get can’t you quiet, gone have If the streets is Football underway. game (soccer) a football there’s are chances Greece, across cafes pas- local inspires and basketball) by sport (followed popular spectator most Greece’s hooliganism. unedifying fan sions and frequently SPORTING PASSIONS high-pro mained in the shadow of Europe’s soccer heavyweights. A major shake-up was expected expected was major shake-up A heavyweights. soccer Europe’s of mained in the shadow a match- by rocked was football Greek after Olympiakos, AEK, Aris and PAOK have all won European championships. European all won have and PAOK Aris AEK, Olympiakos, Piraeus and arch rivals Panathinaikos of Panathinaikos rivals and arch Piraeus usually Greece PAOK. niki’s of European basketball, winning its sixth Euroleague title in 2011. title in 2011. sixth Euroleague its winning basketball, European of Thessaloniki. More than five than five More Greek descent descent Greek ing about three ing about three million in the US million in the US (300,000), after after (300,000), million people of million people of countries, includ- countries, and Canada. Mel- and Canada. bourne, Australia, Australia, bourne, live abroad in 140 in 140 abroad live

742 THE GREEK WAY OF LIFE THE NEW GREEKS THE GREEK WAY OF LIFE FAITH & IDENTITY 743 . ) .

Alps Evil Most people Most a saint, as are as are a saint, are considered considered are boats, suburbs suburbs boats, than birthdays. than birthdays. more important important more ick ( ick are named after named after are namesake saint) saint) namesake (celebrating your your (celebrating fl The Greek year is year The Greek of the church cal- the church of Never on a Never days and festivals festivals and days centred on saints’ on saints’ centred endar. Name days Name days endar. and train stations. and train lm Dogtooth (1962), and (1962), fi lm (2005), and (2005), fi

- - e y . a p- b l lms in many years years lms in many Politiki Kouzina; Politiki u Electra Electra fi Gy ( cant p uring ( fi arked itions, o ement t from d l p

d er their p p (1965). The late MelinaThe late (1965). rst

fi k d k ive a semi ey e ey tra l cult time cult . Considered one of the few the few one of Considered . k d . ffi aloniki International Film s rst Greek zombie zombie Greek rst e the Church fi l d consi a d ora d p her were the were exerts signi t generally devout from the former Thess ’ Sirens in the Aegean in the Sirens p ox Church, though ll d s an d A Touch of Spice of Touch A l ing view is that to ning a Gree l fi roblems have s have roblems e p d anguage an 1964 the classic lm remains Blood on the Land l fi Mihalis since lm has been nominated (Nyfes), le aren

fi revai 97% of the Gree atriate p Ortho lmmakers, Lanthimos came into the inter- into came Lanthimos lmmakers, p d fth-ever Greek nomination. Lanthimos also also Lanthimos nomination. Greek fth-ever fi p k fi er Ottoman ru er Ottoman atsani she eo Eternity and a Day Eternity atriated or retiredatriated or in Greece, ture, d k p (2000) and (2000) l p Brides was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Best for Award Academy an for nominated was nised ethnicnised the were minority mostly ethnic Turks exem ethnicmostly Turks un cu g ( igion of Greece an serve the ritua d k l Sara (1963) and lmmaker is Theo Angelopoulos, winner of the winner of Angelopoulos, Theo is lmmaker b fi e d ture. The escent re r l

ity from far-right fringe groups. far-right from ity d l Safe Sex l

, who continue to have a di have continue to , who is the annual lm event cu ) k fi y to the Gree d time a Greek rst ortant criterion in fi cia ll lm has achieved moderate commercial successes domesti- successes commercial moderate lm has achieved ach an ynamic. p ffi fi l hosti d (2007). Tasos Boulmetis’ Boulmetis’ Tasos (2007). y, most o y, ations, an (Kynodonta) (Kynodonta) l er of Gree d

s only reco s only iros, while you will come across Roma will come across Roma iros, while you p ’ p ar ld l ecially in Macedonia, Thrace and Thessaly. More Thrace Thessaly. and ecially in Macedonia, in 1977 – and only the – and only in 1977 ho lmmakers, he is renowned for long takes and slow pans. and slow long takes for he is renowned lmmakers, e of Gree entity. Between 94% an Between entity. p fi p ers of V ies an The Red Lanterns The Red d b pl ll El Greco El Greco which was nominated for seven Oscars, including Best Picture, Director Director Picture, Best including Oscars, seven for nominated which was u l Dogtooth eo a east nomina l p p Ifigenia num ulation exchangeulation ll ox faith is the o p Identity entity, ethnicity an entity, o d church regu rinci d , which also won her the Best Actress award at Cannes (and Best Music Oscar for for Music Oscar (and Best at Cannes award Actress her the Best won which also , p d & p i ong at k l art of their i rtho e igion was the most im p l Greece’s most prestigious prestigious most Greece’s Greece’s best known art-house art-house known best Greece’s But Greece’s most internationally acclaimed acclaimed internationally most But Greece’s Since the 1990s, Greek Greek the 1990s, Since b O everywhere, es ing to maintain a sense of unity. The Church sti of unity. ing to maintain a sense ) Re Until recently Greece Until Very sma Very lp Festival. Golden Palm award at Cannes in 1998 for for in 1998 at Cannes award Golden Palm ‘auteur’ remaining Manos Hatzidakis). Manos Mercouri, who went on to become Greece’s culture minister, is the only Greek actor ever ever actor is the only Greek minister, culture Greece’s become on to who went Mercouri, in the 1960 as a prostitute role her memorable for an Oscar, for nominated Sunday Vasilis Georgiadis’ Georgiadis’ Vasilis was such a cult hit, Billy Zane wanted a role in the prequel. a role wanted Zane Billy such a cult hit, was the Greek, Zorba Cinemato- Art Direction, Best for three but won Quinn), (Anthony Actor and (Cacoyannis) nominations Oscar only other Greece’s (Lila Kedrova). Actress and Supporting graphy with Cacoyannis’ cinema, Greek of the 1960s heydays from came also 2003) and Pantelis Voulgaris’ 2004 hit 2004 Voulgaris’ and Pantelis 2003) to gain cinematic releases abroad, while Yorgos Noussias’ Noussias’ Yorgos while abroad, cinematic releases gain to the high-budget the high-budget cally with hit comedies such as with hit comedies cally won the best screenplay award at the 2011 Venice Film Festival for his third feature, feature, his third for Film Festival Venice at the 2011 award screenplay the best won One of Greece’s promising new-generation new-generation promising Greece’s of One national spotlight in 2009 when he won the new talent award at Cannes for for at Cannes award talent the new won when he in 2009 national spotlight GREECE ON SCREEN ON GREECE Lan- Yorgos writer-director when in 2011, boost a much-needed cinema received Greek quirky thimos’ Foreign Language Film, the Film, Language Foreign Cacoyannis’ Cacoyannis’ e 1923 as the ost-war Greek emigrants have also re emigrants have ost-war Greek long with a small wave of second- and third-generation Greeks from third-generation Greeks of second- and small wave long with a nti-immigrant ra nti-immigrant onsecutive foreign occu han 150,000 han 150,000 ion aith of Gree Greek is to be Orthodox. While younger c w f t The p a and the wider Greek dias America, Canada, Australia Faith nomadic existence in E sies t th moving to the cities. Greece’s illegal immigration immigration illegal Greece’s the cities. to moving a 300,000 Muslims in western Thrace in Muslims 300,000 Soviet Union and Balkan states after and Balkan states Man the fall of communism. Soviet Union he migrants are changing the migrants are changing the nor atten - - - ) y d le l ro p ues ight l q eo nise pp ts are rivers, aid by l g p y other d p u ou wish l eared on eared y d mos am; non . ominant l ll a ress a pp d em, to d y reco d a ays l Is re l bl d the evil the eye. irts that reach d e p ff k d ro t have the samet have y of Genoese or

’ l ose riests are riests p d l ways ways ar saints. The tiny ies an l l een (p b ing the sign of theing the sign . in 2006, after much notice taxi notice taxi b a a k liation liation a d ll ffi b ld wear s most aism an , ecially on Syros, where es were on es were cial level, construction ise d Jewish communities in Jewish ffi ld l g articu p ll a ics p l g e have e have mostly descendants of 15th e status. l ( d l ications to saints. If to y d d l dating back to the Roman era e marria ( ong trousers iments to ega ife. You wi ife. You l ). l d l l pl y icate in controversy an with sma ar l , l d ic transport ma d 000 Catho ai e , uence. Greece doesn Greece uence. roved at the o , women shou fl bl wear d d art the constitution, the on of

d ation. p itting) gesture to ward o gesture itting) ld l d pp p ulation estimated to be close to 500,000,ulation estimated to be itary; civi ering to the relevant saint. Hundreds of the relevantering to Hundreds saint. u erate in Athens, which c erate in Athens, which l ff the countrysi p p p d o o ’ (s out 5000 p art of p b e on pu ies an p om is l l e covere ents or simi d cremation was on cremation was ues o igions in Greece are Ju ain and Portugal b d l

d q p er a you see on roadsides are either shrines to you see on roadsides are aroun men shou ) b ld d d ass a church; com ass a church; fami re ue remains mire s are peop go to a church when they have a when they go to a church have l o not have the same o not have l Kavala and Didymotiho and Kavala ftou ftou els p acci d ‘ , q aration as other Western countries countries as other Western aration d ll d p d otte ua serviceor mi p a church or monastery, you shou a church or monastery, l d d d 40% of the s cha s wi mos p igious free so has more than 50 l ( ivi l nees an l l . k endence. Though a

e eshift mos d k y 1980s; an p ists an p and until relatively recently religious a recently relatively and until k l in roa l e u ) Jews num Jews olitical and economic in economic and olitical k d cia e re ox faiths k aroun the civi p ases ffi l y in y. Arms shou y. ie t d g l igious ritua k b y recognise cha l d roversy os ll ll t t oo l ow the n l Greece a Gree Whi Re With Greece’s Muslim Muslim With Greece’s l riate ui e ega oinin Church-state se after Inde Frankish origin and living in the Cyclades, es Frankish cross when theycross when century exiles from S l Ortho and Thessaloniki b ico p b j in the ear the ‘ followed by social, social, who con motorcyc to many ma many Many Gree Many of an o the state national identity cards. Non-Orthodox identity national hard time a have can still Greeks Ioannina, Larisa, Halkida and Rhodes Larisa, Halkida Ioannina, they ma sma a candle or leave a votive o a candle or leave (literally (literally The sexual liberation of of liberation who courted who courted known as the known have virtually virtually have Greek society society Greek (and HIV/AIDS) HIV/AIDS) (and 1970s and ’80s. 1970s kamaki a fishing trident) the islands in the mous Greek lover lover mous Greek killed off the infa- the killed off foreign women on women foreign

744 THE GREEK WAY OF LIFE FAITH & IDENTITY 745

Architecture Cast your eyes around most major Western cities and you’ll eventually fi nd a reinterpretation of classical Greek architecture. The Renaissance was inspired by the ancient style as was the neoclassical movement and the British Greek Revival. For those of you with an eye to the past, part of the allure of Greece is the sheer volume of its well-preserved temples. Stand in the ruins of the extraordinary Parthenon, and with a little eff ort of the imagination, it’s easy to transport yourself back to clas- sical 5th-century Greece. It’s also an exciting time for modern Greece: visitors can track the country’s transition from fugly modern high-rise to exciting modern hi-tech, and heritage gurus are restoring neoclassical glamour with sassy retrofi ts. Much of Greece is moving forward, including its past. Minoan Magnifi cence Most of our knowledge of Greek architecture proper begins at around 2000 BC with the Minoans, who were based in Crete but whose in- fl uence spread throughout the Aegean to include the Cyclades. Minoan architects are famous for having constructed technologically advanced, labyrinthine palace complexes. The famous site at Knossos is one of the largest. Usually characterised as ‘palaces’, these sites were in fact multifunctional settlements that were the primary residenc- es of royalty and priests, but housed some plebs, too. Large Minoan villages, such as those of Gournia and Palekastro in Crete, also included internal networks of paved roads that extended throughout the countryside to link the settlements with the palaces. More Minoan palace-era sophistication exists at Phaestos, Malia and Ancient Zakros

GRANDEUR OF KNOSSOS

According to myth, the man tasked with designing a maze to withhold the dreaded Mi- notaur was famous Athenian inventor Daedalus, father of Icarus. He also designed the palace of Knossos for King Minos. First discovered by a Cretan, Milos Kalokirinos, in 1878, it wasn’t until 1900 that the ruins of Knossos were unearthed by an Englishman, Sir Arthur Evans. The elaborate palace complex at Knossos (p452) was originally formed largely as an administrative settlement surrounding the main palace, which comprised the main buildings arranged around a large central courtyard (1250 sq metres). Over time the entire settlement was rebuilt and extended. Long, raised causeways formed main corridors; narrow labyrin- thine chambers fl anked the palace walls (this meandering fl oor plan, together with the graphic ritual importance of bulls, inspired the myth of the labyrinth and the Minotaur). The compound featured strategically placed interior light wells, sophisticated ventila- tion systems, aqueducts, freshwater irrigation wells, and bathrooms with extensive plumbing and drainage systems. The ground levels consisted mostly of workshops, cylindrical grain silos and storage magazines.

l - - - ) t d d d l k- ll- te ui ic an l l b p -15th d y we within -vau y re bl d l l i rinthian. e d s weighing b east cause l ute Co k l rotiri on the on rotiri reek architec Greece, k oc s on main d G l bl an architectura an d l ous cor aces, fence y to have more nat y to have the incre l l d nic and thick. The immense a d ean-stone walls were ) p Io en p ecte ff ers of massive masonry. masonry. ers of massive p e, on l hen most 25ft ld ( aka Tomb of Agamemnon aka Tomb imestone the region in the mi in the the region w l ( ui

d b e d is atter e atter k ) er sca l les became characterised by the . The Minoans reso . The Minoans d ed Cyclo ere Mycenaean riva Mycenaean p ects the very that at fi d ff to 7m g p southern main ) d in assageways; an assageways; e-e g l p 10ft forti s ’ ( tions roc utation as p p ripp l owers and leaves, beneath a small scroll. a small scroll. beneath and leaves, owers using ta fl . articularly the Doric, e roame d oints for their austere p ace at Tiryns has stu pl to the groun to the p l ll a ogica eo y the emer erce re erce l p fi ertise p b with secret canic eru osition

l p d a d p e d e aces on an even gran at the Minoan outpost of Ancient A of Ancient outpost the Minoan at l . ll 5th to 4th BC centuries s Palace, near modern Pylos, also illustrates the Myc near modern s Palace,

a d ’ ( ddl fi ace to fa ace to l p e rini g o utes carved into the column from top to bottom. The bottom. to top from the column into carved utes is ri ing fl d bl gigantic vo gigantic s of pa l k structural ex Sant ’ ycenaeans ha of isasters wipe them out again. Theisasters wipe the choice vantage ff d classical a M

eries an l Severa e e to 120 tonnes. The , ll uth DORIC FROM YOUR CORINTHIAN DORIC YOUR FROM so in Crete,so an h p reserved Nestor ig chun Doric style style Ionic Corinthian style l their crum royal beehive tomb of the Treasury of Atreus Treasury royal beehive tomb of the was constructe at Mycenae chasm that was chasm that enaeans Com Classic Th Thistural clichés converge. is when tem ing o ga p b ura Greece. Engineering Mycenaean T a so famous orders of columns, on average an unbreachable 3m on average centurycausing geo BC, These war-mongering u formidable citadels. The citadels The most decorative and popular of all three orders. The column is ridged, is ridged, The column orders. all three and popular of decorative The most The most simple of the three styles. The shaft (the main part of the column) is the column) of The shaft (the main part styles. the three simple of The most Look out for the ridged the ridged out for Look The base is like the Ionic. is like The base however the distinctive feature is the capital’s is the capital’s feature the distinctive however capital is also distinctive for its scrolls, while the base looks like a stack of rings. of a stack like looks while the base scrolls, its for distinctive is also capital Corinthian Doric Also in a simple circle. is formed (the head) while the capital sides, plain and has 20 this is the Parthenon. of example An obvious no base. there’s Ionic KNOW YOUR YOUR KNOW

746 ARCHITECTURE MYCENAEAN ENGINEERING ARCHITECTURE HELLENISTIC CITIZENS 747 alleys, were were alleys, designed to to designed Cycladic-style Cycladic-style was pragmatic pragmatic was The distinctive The distinctive houses, roofed and functional. and functional. blue-and-white blue-and-white associated with associated The cuboid flat- elements: stong stong elements: huddled together huddled together the Greek islands islands the Greek guard against the against guard architecture most most architecture along labyrinthine along labyrinthine winds and pirates.

, - - - - y y y g d le o p- e an of is of p , th p ( ) ll y of lays l ll was e tiers p , l d music , a, with Tem fi ’ in a incor wealth l eriod as status , p style d ) as, man olis leted during p y remo ements of its ements of its p aye jewe l l is of coloured . , the order was d ) g pl enistic architect y-BC Parthenon y-BC e les, casting their arhons therios hi dome eovers as wea ll and had a round is d p he ( p ase in severa ) main churches k

d p ( avish b l

Elef n oorin o fl els in Mystr holos , solid marble crown. To marble crown. , solid anded, smack bang in t umn p g lik l ace ma idavros osing structure. Another l o hotogra eriod, the Corinthian col eriod, the Corinthian p p a le e. The He tinos fuse p p ian Zeus, com ses to the east. Theologian l th y Church of Agia So p p from about the late 4th cen inal Greek Byzantine model

k p ( p ious interiors. In Athens, the ious interiors. In a a co y g tural acanthus d l ressive during Byzantium in g g k I ly banked stone benches that stone ly banked where the famous Caryatids where the p anked by vaults, with smaller by anked p , leamin d fl p g which alternates with stone is the 5th-centuris the , nin an sty g onies of the Asia Minor coast were of the Asiaonies Minor the b els attached to enchanting 17th-els attached and heavyweights heavyweights , an l : a e; essentially a central dome su l g ing mosaics were sessive p g g p esi k b Church of Agios co d in le of Olym nikarea sits str k k . itica s p l iers and p ent ur stri er, er, o os p d d l d Erechtheion p . The best Hellenistic ancient home dis . The best Hellenistic mansions once owned by ) ( nec

ectacular devotional mosaics and frescoes most o most articularly ex rivate homes an

d d . p eca rivate cha p l p a d he p e, an t the Gree bl bling , ister, includin ister, ted by the Romans and used only on Corinthian ted by the Romans and for utes. This more graceful order’s capital (the head) capital Thisutes. order’s more graceful e . ntik Sanctuary of Athena Pronea at Del s for the stylistic reli s for the stylistic g usually the very scul fl p r d o ( olitan folks started to weary of tem g and the o ears of the classical age p hurch of Ka y rh lays m e re a ted for s zantine monastic sites have made it to the Unesco zantine monastic sites have p robably robably houses at De g

h dome, is a humble version of her sister namesake in h dome, is a humble version of her sister namesake y p s a more p d eman y d. g d d ight ignitaries an es in mar l ments of a classical frieze in Pentelic marble; the charmin marble; ments of a classical frieze in Pentelic read ealing 12th-century d d ( g , cosmo an ornamente their own Ionic or their own Ionic o atterns. Thessaloniki’s 8th-centur Thessaloniki’s atterns. ) g d uently ado pp . b le is the 4th-century BC theatre at E p eoisie merchants) y stan q p les in Athens. The Tem circularle design, the graceful, tem g eror Hadrian’s reign, is a grand, im eror Hadrian’s ll zantineZea p p p Several B The of the classical Greek theatre design is a hallmark Towards the tail end of the classical tail end of the classical the Towards In the meantime the In y ectator could monitor every below. on the stage syllable uttered orld Herita hich were originally as in hot reece hurch-building was m omes at the four corners and three a esign in the Parthenon. This is used on the Acro order Parthenon. esign in the orted by four arches on our rchitects o nd adding more nd adding more re the gran xam oncerts and reatin itizens, p ega eceive ates fra stanbul. There Byzantine cha are numerous he middle of downtown Athens – its interior he middle of downtown Athens – its interior em em heir a ury BC his day, it’s it’s his day, he ultimate in architecturalhe ultimate blin eatures a distinctivecross-sha Greece (from around AD 700). The ori of Athena Nike of Athena Nike s w b W İ r 11th-century C t f p d a B C c t a Hellenistic Citizen the twi In t w Most ancient Greek theatres are still used for summer festivals ancient Greek theatres are Most c e t E t r double row of or a single or Featuring umn was in limited vogue. nate leafy scrolls subse a r d t G c The structuresall Doric of mother t set in instead of carvin her 30m-hi symbols very a seated many thousands. Cleverlyseated many meant ever engineered acoustics 18th-centur stage, radiating a semicircle of stee stage, radiating a semicircle used for the great used for the great gaze towar marble and the external brickwork - - - - t y g l d ue es, l age ui g ink ouin ll b osing p d p stanbul. ace that l s on but İ uarter of ue). The a g ehar q q ish cast p i fortress at ll k erb Turkish d p t a ue in aves, they aves, l with im c Ottoman ue, college and l fi q holds rominent d q ami ui l p e io, the very stur g b enc kl l dd y for two centuries. y for two . l 16th to 19th centu- so treets of Thessaloniki oor overlooking overlooking oor l ( ers in 1204, much ofers in 1204, fl Athens’ few surviving d e with Fran tron p fami l S sca orates a mos d p eria p an Cami (Victory Mos l ainted woodwork. ar ocean views y the Crusa l es fortress in Ira air, some terri air, p b l ast, as does the walled ast, as does the walled p Rhodes’ Old Town, which still bears which still Rhodes’ Old Town, Trikala, and the s Trikala, p e osing 18th-century Pa p pl lass windows, wooden overhan The Pritzker Prize–winning architect architect Prize–winning The Pritzker urkish border, showcase su urkish border, y to seize a few coasta g rotecting Byzantine vi the enchanting ectacu b disre s onnesian

reserving. One good restoration job is the Venetian . p p p d p o g ttoman Turkish rule Turkish ttoman o ues and their minarets have sadly crumbled ues and their minarets have e & l s s ll O q . at Mystras, where they where a at Mystras, oms of Western aristocrats. The aristocrats. Vi oms of Western s o d acutely aware that their 400-year-lon acutely aware the im efence at Acrocorinth is stu efence at Acrocorinth is ) pp d f d u g p s d d -nest (market) and a canal that will link the park (at that will link the park a canal and (market) and the architect for the 16th-century o o , ro k cant for their late-Byzantine multidomed style, style, multidomed late-Byzantine their for cant p

ef fi d fi s lasterwork and erin eri ing the Pe ni p s ff g d agora bl f Constantino e 16th-century Kou les still survive. These include the o

p bl amata an the roc uarter of Varousi in uarter of Varousi ue and Turkish Baths are two of ue and Turkish k ue of Süleyman in l d q q q ac ly, remarkably few remarkably are left monuments to catalo ly, Turkish bath Turkish (OAKA) Notable for Spanish architect Santiago Calavrata’s Calavrata’s Santiago architect Spanish for Notable (OAKA) (

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a court of the Byzantine im ecame the unctuate p ur centurie enetra b p o Loukas, si am p

u io. The ram ned homes with stained- d s ly g e pl This new space houses Greece’s antiquities. Designed by Bernard Bernard by Designed antiquities. Greece’s houses space This new io mm d g a r are in and the 11th-centuryand the site of an on the which stands Dafniou, Moni Sanctuaryancient of A ries). Though mos many Ottoman reminders at Monemvasia comman at Monemvasia after f fami an gateways, Mos also designed the Blue in Trikala Tzami Koursoum fortress an at Methoni, the im Greeks are becomin many legacies of its Ottoman of its Ottoman legacies many and of Didymotiho, near the T desi tresses, decorated dossier is worth Ottoman o exam Turkish domed Mos Ottoman O Interestin Frankish Kee After the A h Naf Greece Fethiye Mos Fethiye 18-domed Imaret in Kavala, which incor 18-domed in Kavala, Imaret such as at Ka When the Venetians When the Venetians en Ioannina and its restored Fetiye Fetiye and its restored Ioannina The Turkish The Turkish This is the world’s largest digital hemispherical dome, providing 360-de- providing dome, digital hemispherical largest This is the world’s striking ultramodern glass-and-steel roof, which is suspended by cables from large large from cables suspended by which is roof, glass-and-steel ultramodern striking arches. excavated ruins in situ. excavated Park Cultural Foundation’s Niarchos Stavros the National Library for venues Plans include new the SNFCP. Piano is designing Renzo sur- amid natural be set to School, and the National Ballet National Opera the Greece, of an feature that will also roundings the old horse-racing tracks in Faliro) with the sea. Completion is due in 2015. Completion with the sea. in Faliro) tracks the old horse-racing Planetarium galaxy. the through virtual rides 3D gree Olympic Complex Athens BEST FUTURISTIC ATHENS FUTURISTIC BEST Museum Acropolis the Par- mirroring (inner room) cella glass an internal features the museum Tschumi, and a glass steel) in (clad columns of number thenon with the same

748 ARCHITECTURE FRANKISH KEEPS & VENETIAN STRONGHOLDS ARCHITECTURE NEOCLASSICAL SPLENDOUR 749 stone- roofs, roofs, l - - - - - d en u fl s uilt rove b lio is ift of l p p enkerl ustria tations p d endence p aintings. designed p ( p uities an face an Han i q d t iration from ict in haestus in is l p r and Naf p ) rnst Ziller– oors are lined in painted sheet sheet in painted lined are oors ere fl E Ch ost-Inde esigne d rohoria: schist-slab schist-slab rohoria: p see Best Futuristic ex in Gazi. d

by colourfulanked romenade, and the ( - fl d s p pl ll ’ le of He oodlighting fl p an b ection of anti ll edestrian zones to im ra s. p ainter Christian Grie d g e the we p -top village of Oia in Santorini, with its daz- with its Oia in Santorini, of village -top s Ionic-style column entrance s Ionic-style ’ ff d s arts com at Gialos is u k l ; the great interior oblong hall is ; the great interior oblong ects Greece histicated look-both-ways archi histicated look-both-ways ectacular . es for ) fl lay beautiful domestic ada lay p p p p hile Hansen drew ins hile Hansen of the ancient ) p es inc pl onsible for the handsome but more sedate is gaswor heo p l T eometric forms, and Hellenistic detail. Re eometric forms, and Hellenistic o

g the harbour p t , plendour which contains beautiful frescoes and mosaic , S still striking even if a little derelict still striking even if a little ollo and Athena ed courtyards. ed ( s fi y showcasing its vast co p b oors are panelled in wood; the upper the in wood; panelled are oors with its clean lines fl , erts neoclassical building world as the most beautiful ea Discover the strangely attractive wooden-framed houses of Lefkada Lefkada of houses wooden-framed attractive the strangely Discover aces emerging from once- rand and restored neoclassical mansions house notable mu restored neoclassical mansions house notable p Gaze at the slate mansions of the Zago of the at the slate mansions Gaze h architec g y p s Id hile’s solid marble National Library, while Library, solid marble National hile’s p rovincial towns also dis ge s p d Watch out for the lovely Vathia in Mani, for its startling meercat-esque stone stone meercat-esque startling its for in Mani, Vathia the lovely out for Watch s for , and by beautifying landsca aesthetic See the medieval, labyrinthine, vaulted island village of Pyrgi in Chios, for its its for in Chios, Pyrgi of island village vaulted labyrinthine, medieval, the See g an environment. Exam an environment. l ern hile’s brother) was res hile’s ) such as the acclaimed Benaki Museum and the such as the acclaimed Benaki Museum , b p Squint at the volcanic rock–hewn cli rock–hewn at the volcanic Squint d s. r o Many Meticulousl wned Dani Pyrgi facades. grey-and-white geometric, intricate, of designs Genoese unique Zagorohoria TOP FIVE PROVINCIAL ORIGINALS PROVINCIAL FIVE TOP zlingly whitewashed island streetscapes and homes. island streetscapes zlingly whitewashed Town Lefkada the lower Town; tower houses with round turrets as sentry posts. as sentry turrets round with houses tower Oia Vathia slab walls and forti slab walls iron. or corrugated metal as commissioned to decorate its elaborate ceiling and wall as commissioned to decorate ide, the 1885 Athens Academy re ide, the 1885 Athens Academy oo o y the renowned Pierre Bideau f neoclassicism. In Symi f neoclassicism. In rchaeological heritage in evolutionary buildings lso embellished with neoclassical buildin earnin nced Theo utting-e Theo he historic centre, including its s ectura he ur he Erechtheion to design the Academy he Erechtheion to design guarded over by A

neoclassical facades t b c zones, such as the Techno Athens today is embracing a so is embracing a Athens today t a t a M fl o e ( seums ( w w y n t Neoclassical Neoclassical Regarded by ex Numismatic Museum Numismatic lined with marble seating, and Austrian a similar vein, the Doric columns of the Tem In Athens Athens University 750

Greek Cuisine Simple, nutritious and fl avoursome, Greek food is one of the pleasures of travelling through Greece. In the 5th century BC, Archestratus wrote one of the earliest Greek cookbooks, Gastronomia, giving rise to the term ‘gastronomy’. But Greek cuisine has taken a while to come to the fore as one of the healthiest and tastiest, with far more to off er than the familiar souvlaki and grills. Greece’s rich culinary heritage draws from a fusion of mountain vil- lage food, island cuisine, fl avours introduced by Greeks from Asia Minor, and infl uences from various invaders and historical trading partners. Rustic Greek cooking refl ects the bounty of its diverse regions and relies on fresh, seasonal, sun-drenched local produce. Subsistence living during hard times made Greeks adept at using every edible morsel to make a delicious meal, making the most of the fruits of the sea and whatever grew wild. Greek food traditions have emanated from home cooks rather than restaurant kitchens. Those fortunate to have eaten in a Greek home would often lament that the cuisine was never done justice in a restau- rant setting, let alone at generic or ‘tourist’ tavernas. More recent eff orts Greek coffee at nouvelle-Greek cuisine with fancy foams and takes on international is traditionally trends were hit-and-miss aff airs. brewed in a briki But a welcome culinary awakening has been taking place, with a (narrow-top pot) new-found appreciation for traditional cuisine, regional specialities on a hot-sand and produce with a designation of origin. Changing lifestyles have apparatus called a hovoli – and led to people cooking less at home, fuelling nostalgia for the familiar served in a small fl avours off yiayia’s (grandmother’s) cooking. Classic, home-style cup. It should cooking or reinterpreted Greek dishes can now be found on the be sipped slowly trendiest restaurant menu, while the creative new generation of chefs until you reach in Greece (and abroad) is taking their culinary heritage up a notch, the mudlike grounds at the adding modern fl are and challenging perceptions of Greek food. bottom (don’t drink them) and The Greek Kitchen is best drunk The essence of traditional Greek cuisine lies in fresh, seasonal home- metrios (medium, grown produce and generally simple, unfussy cooking that brings out with one sugar). the rich fl avours of the Mediterranean. Greek dishes are simply seasoned. Lemon juice, garlic, pungent Greek oregano and extra virgin olive oil are the quintessential fl avours, along with tomato, parsley and dill, and spices such as cinnamon, allspice and cloves. Olive oil is the elixir of Greece, with extra virgin oil used liberally in cooking and salads, making vegetables, pulses and legumes – key elements of the healthy Mediterranean diet – tastier. Olive oil is produced commercially and in family-run groves all over the country and many tavernas use their own oil. Meat was once reserved for special occasions but has become more prominent in the modern diet. Grilled and spit-roasted meats are fa- GREEK CUISINE THE GREEK KITCHEN 751 is a Greek chefs chefs Greek from leading leading from bible of Greek Greek bible of Vefa Alexiadou, Alexiadou, Vefa including some including some cooking cooking matron (white (white cooking from TV TV from cooking with 650 recipes, with 650 recipes, around the globe. around weighty 750-page 750-page weighty Vefa’s Kitchen Vefa’s

- ) . (aubergine) and (aubergine) . y p ), d revythokeftedhes revythokeftedhes ) ) gavros ia a sa- t u is o star n i otatoes m s p p a creamy split pea purée purée split pea a creamy oily’ dishes, ‘ kokki with baked ( ) ed snack with fava, oaves of crust oaves nely cut red onions. Named onions. nely cut red l fi melitzanosalata pp or chicken sou or chicken ect what Greeks fl ) ). it-roasted meats. The fresh p d aghetti and meat bake aghetti ita-wra (spicy meat pieces cooked in tomato in tomato cooked pieces meat (spicy lentils (pork sausage), village sausage and sausage village (pork sausage), p and herbs ed with rice ot dishes), or p ( emono ff (giant lima beans in tomato and herb in tomato (giant lima beans l

are usually prepared early an p iece of celebrations. Local of celebrations. iece ection of appetisers, foo l s aa they are often served better l p t ( f and the summer favourite, vgo ) (tomato fritters). (tomato ake sh). Among the vegetarian options, try dol- options, Among the vegetarian sh). a f fi ire mea ermarkets and used for toast. y y a thick s p loukaniko ( is a wedge of fried hard cheese, but you will also will also but you cheese, hard fried of is a wedge yigantes a

avour avour o er a se er bekri mezes fl M mostly braised vegetable dishes, are rilled meat and seafood, and dishes and meat and seafood, rilled i ff , g a ts with lemon and oregano . t (cured (cured i ( f sweet with tomato and on stew cooked s

y o ( include Greece’s signature dish, include Greece’s

p o ll and lemon) make a heartyare meal, but make and lemon) t ast a o sh roe), you should also try should also you sh roe), ire zucchini fritters) and Cycladic specialties, specialties, and Cycladic fritters) zucchini saganaki fi a s. p lettuce and lettuce y , gg ( n o adh lant or zucchini, minced meat and lant or zucchini, minced (bean soup), lakerda lls the air of every neighbourhood (oven-baked or one- (oven-baked (e f (meatballs), (meatballs), ma such as such

fi p aa domatokeftedhes . ) m a ) feature of ever mussels and prawns, cooked in tomato sauce with cheese. sauce in tomato cooked and prawns, mussels r sti le kebab-style meat cooked on a vertical meat cooked rotisserie kebab-style y from er , ork dominate, though kid goat is also a favourite kid goat though ork dominate, slow-cooked lamb or beef in a tomato sauce with slow-cooked ( me uably the national dish – comes in many forms, uably the national dish – comes in many , taurant mayirefta

d p i o s (ready-cooked meals), which re meals), which (ready-cooked r g os (spicy sauce) and pork or lamb meatballs in tomato o a orted ator

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u and restaurant stri r d . y und in re ) , a spicy sausage and pepper stew. Seafood dishes include crispy fried or include crispy dishes Seafood and pepper stew. sausage a spicy , o or chicken or chicken mayirefta . Common (orzo or rice-shaped pasta). o zo

le di ) is a catch-all term for a variety of home-style, one-pot, baked variety is a catch-all term for a of home-style,

kolokythokeftedhes ( kolokythokeftedhes braised with celery i b tomatoes and seasonal vegetables stu ( s o me aa is is a man (

ut t eart t s such as e aki f d itiona

le meat dishes include tasty tomato-based stews le meat dishes include tasty er h p r ho so d p d baked layers of egg layers baked ften f sta Popular meat mezedhes include mezedhes meat Popular ss e e ed with cheese and béchamel sauce ed with cheese and béchamel ire ( i ), o referred t wn a ha

h y t The souvlaki – ar Sta Brea Sou Tra Pasta is widely used Pasta o t and red wine), wine), and red spetsofai or grilled marinated fries), whole like (eaten whitebait grilled calamari, anchovies), octopus and octopus anchovies), parcels), rice (vine-wrapped madhes sauce), sauce), and fritters) (chick-pea after the pan it is cooked in, in, cooked it is the pan after originating from Santorini, served with lemon juice and with lemon juice served Santorini, originating from across come MEZEDHES the Beyond dine. to and fun way is a social (appetisers) mezedhes of Sharing a range cucumber and garlic), (yoghurt, tzatziki of dips classic pink or white pink or white i a pp so ith rice an o ork or chicken otatoes, rabbit or beef r read are bought daily, the most common being the white crusty village white crusty common being the the most daily, read are bought ecause of the li em n r ca nd left to cool l at at oast lam o grill house beef is largely im beef is ree-range lamb and lamb and ree-range ricasse aromas of meat cooking ( p Greek Grill s Greeks are the master of the charcoal grill and p ions f k n r y a kas t M o a b b in su Sliced bread is only available loaf. Mayireft e w ( cook k voured when eating out and are the centre are out and eating when voured f from cubes to the of grilled meat on a skewer to t lukewarm

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d d (a bouillabaisse-style speciality laden speciality (a bouillabaisse-style d pp pp d ll , the Pe a ia or marinate e l n ia r or goat o or goat fi d y in Gree ima p v usually made to order l l sh roe b e ; cucumber . fi (lamb cutlets) (lamb and ). sh is not , ho i an fi ll s of the so ( erved with a meze orted from Messolongi, on the west coast on the west orted from Messolongi, l k s b a. am d p ive oi -rich foo al wra l r l l

ff kaka d e d oni over Athens, whi dakia o l nown for sim her ï d urslane, k d ed with cheese and herbs or rice, and a wintered with cheese and herbs or rice, a ff ishes unhear p rominent ladhe o of Serres, or d p l ecialities include cray e ean Seas are incre ean Seas are a p g k ff anse of coastline and island living,anse of coastline it alted c er han cuisine is invaria seasone ucers of o s u p articularly well with ed lamb o ad k d d , a distinctive b are delicious warm or cold, drizzled with olive oil and are delicious warm or cold, drizzled with olive p uid stu l pp ) Ae e sh and seafood ) fi ular seafood dishes include grilled ular seafood dishes include q pp aces you may a may aces you y Asia Minor refugees, uses refugees, y Asia Minor (whitebait) are ideal lightly fried. (whitebait) ro k d orina, to the giant onnese is . Flavoursome smaller . Flavoursome greens an p l ices. Thessa feature a b a p ) p pl nown for seafoo

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pp pp ers an s Ioannina’s ilaf. y local e otato di aho a shing in the Mediterranean and high demand in summer. Smaller and high demand in summer. shing in the Mediterranean and anchovies are still good value. On sh such as sardines, whitebait an calamari or s iconic images of Greece. Gri iconic images of Greece. salads are served outside the summer, while beetroot is also a salads are served outside the summer, with oregano and lemon juice intro lemon, and go salad, occasionally garnished with feta and walnuts. gastronomic u in beeswax is a delicacy ex smo Vo Re Provincia microc p p vegetables or a delectable b ( Fi ex With such an terranean an with grilled whole and drizzled mum fuss – an are usually ordered by the kilo ordered are usually oil dressing the p p (coarsely cho The ubi fav with various r G forage the salad sta Greece. fi fi im to avoid the islands, the best way tivated greens roaste times garnished with FETA produced for for produced from sheep’s sheep’s from can be called be called can and/or goat’s goat’s and/or milk. Only feta feta Only milk. as Parma ham as Parma made in Greece made in Greece protected status status protected and Champagne. cheese, has been cheese, feta, an EU ruling ruling EU an feta, Feta, the national Feta, giving it the same giving it the same about 6000 years about 6000 years

752 GREEK CUISINE REGIONAL CUISINE GREEK CUISINE SWEET TREATS 753 sh) fi YouTube. collection of of collection segments on segments Greek Greek recipes Greek Food TV TV Food Greek For the largest the largest For online try www Diane Kochilas’ Diane Kochilas’ or www.gourmed. .greek-recipe.com .greek-recipe.com com, or check out com, (cuttle , l - - - ). u m ar ed ity. o g p l Lamb or goat is is Lamb or goat owers). A Cretan Cretan A owers). ar to soupies . fl fr l ive oi are the tasty local local the tasty are galak which is used to which is used l a ecia is made o onnese n Crete, p i i d p simi , . i and ball-sha (a cheese, zucchini and and zucchini (a cheese, i ) (

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(spicy creamy cheese). creamy (spicy , raviera d . amygdhalot pp k Boureki d ) udding g adhes also dried and hard p uring the winter, espe uring the winter, ( .

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um f a l s Crete and Pelo , por cure reserves, r ( ) o es of cheeses, most using with tomato an (pie), from the pastry to

d d rice p ke ko h oon di attests k p (

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fi , a nutty, mild Gruyère-like sheep’s-milk sheep’s-milk mild Gruyère-like , a nutty, (chick-pea stew) is slow-cooked overnight in a specially in a specially overnight is slow-cooked stew) (chick-pea pastitsada, d a oasted and oasted n t astry i av manour u

fl l p ma era i y ecialities such as almond i with astry s where sun- was integra p p tic- e whey cheese d d lastei eese s gamopilafo the Mani k with water an ing on yoghurt or ice cream. pax rav p h i e of delectable Greek sweets as the and cakes, ( l an d g lled c g

l fi pp roduce many di roduce many is re uence (sautéed) or (sautéed) lled e a ( to fl revythadha is fi s p d d so has variations of the – ma u l l ings, though cheese, an pas pita meats inc zaharo , and cream ate ll

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(wild mountain greens) or artichokes. or artichokes. mountain greens) (wild iha . fi ) d t nd spiky, wild artichokes, and herb-rich dishes such as dishes and herb-rich wild artichokes, nd spiky, hohlii bourbouristoi , known as known , fi myzithra

custard- r ( tsigariasto

Mas o (braised veal with garlic and wine sauce). Grilled pancetta (pork spare ribs) is ribs) (pork spare Grilled pancetta sauce). and wine with garlic veal (braised pilafi the best is made in Crete, Naxos and Tinos the best is made in Crete, Naxos . store k ( l ) ey, rye or wheat ey, e one, the ricotta- rm, sharp cheeses such as l ent cure l fi (pork) in Tinos and Mykonos and (pork) in Tinos and Mykonos The Venetian in Fertile Crete produces the richest bounty and has the most distinctive regional cui- regional distinctive most and has the bounty the richest produces Crete Fertile Islanders in the arid Cyclades relied on beans and pulses as the foundation of their of as the foundation and pulses on beans relied in the arid Cyclades Islanders hnuts served with honey and cinnamon ht common cheeses inc ll ur t aa l y on the iso g g nely cut red onions), fritters made from its unique waterless tomatoes and wild capers. capers. and wild tomatoes waterless unique its from made fritters onions), nely cut red oon sweets ll Look out for regional s Traditional sweets include baklava Traditional Every region a Every Bar The preservation of foo Greece’s regions Greece’s tions invariably involve spit-r involve tions invariably make stamnagathi sine. You’ll You’ll sine. Each Greek island group – and sometimes each island – has its own specialities. own its island – has each and sometimes – group island Greek Each TASTES OF THE TASTES ISLANDS cooked cooked the of version fi trademark Sifnos while the Cyclades, of speciality is another with lobster Spaghetti pot. shaped clay as as well sausage, a mean makes Mykonos winter diet. Santorini is renowned for for is renowned Santorini diet. winter sofrito Zakynthos,. popular in with wild fennel, wild greens with rabbit or with rabbit greens wild with wild fennel, is delicacy while the Hania region, of speciality is a bake) potato or rooster beef braised spicy weet Treat ive-oi p ou roliferation of ut there’s no shorta ut there’s l lso delicious as a to ned for pastas heese ia s he choice of and feta o obo rom or years, are moistene ouz oca goat’s and sheep’s milk, with in and sheep’s goat’s confectionary from Chios is served on a s mos a d inside shredded angel-hair t ( Greeks traditionally serve fruit rather than sweets after a meal b p t S c e f ( l o l f c provo deli Exce Andros and Mykonos or Syros’ renowned ‘Grecian deli or Syros’ Andros and Mykonos , a . its al v ff p ion, for. can l ) . with d e baked (o hal g d ( les and a

b a- (braised an ean times fl where it i l , d catere ll . savatiano ish, l ougatsa (amaranth) are d mayiritsa a brioche-style b , aa

is the perfect is the perfect t s ra egacy of and li u l eki ld v o etween the ta ur foods without meat or made from tahini and , b ) avoured food (espe- food avoured so a e wi fl t fam robola d , fasolakia yiahni m ’s ing – a aftera mea u agiorgitiko l s k er includes ut they are we isi greens, t b rinkled with icing sugar . . Lenten sweets include niki ld pp ) p o coo roditis nis k , al . A rosé ss sold in delis ( (oven-baked vegetable (oven-baked casserole) and inary treats. astry s athiri l ishes, such me taverna , p mm awned awned d a p so i y in Gree e r (mahaleb cherry mastic. Sat- and kernels) kotsifali l cake (with a coin inside) is cut at midnight (with cake i b arents eat. Most tavernas will accommodate tavernas arents eat. Most bl ity in Greece, ity a in lled , fi p ) ueur. The d ne homemade retsina, as well as new-age as new-age as well ne homemade retsina, dd q fi s and . l. assyrtiko , okra erve mahlepi ( s riendly nd a children’s menu in some tourist areas, but local nd a children’s side. fi vasilopita f es sorre e an o d ar vegeta

y i l ert b d d hes. Of the nutritious wi u . ht ss nd some some nd with ost-Resurrection Mass su ost-Resurrection Mass d g p fi am agiorgitiko e ut other common varieties inc oo 57 57 d hildren and tavernas are veryhildren and tavernas family-friendly p o aze , b d e an l b c p p , l ma ) F l moschofilero with Kid o e ina d many have their own cu have many en-g g es feature prominent ne wines from age-old indigenous varietals with unique with varietals indigenous age-old from ne wines ol d for fi ld avoure bl or oil if you go strictlyby the book k fl (

tiv , while on Easter Sunday you will see whole lambs cooking on s , while on Easter Sunday eaf avoured wine that became popular in the 1960s, retains a largely a largely retains popular in the 1960s, that became wine avoured l em fl d go s p) xynomavro

The 40-day Lenten fast has s Loo A Red-dyed boiled Easter eggs decorate the es reeks love e found around Greece oth the Macedonian-style version oth the Macedonian-style rea creamy semolina custard–creamy Vegeta stinging nett all over the countr outside. You mi outside. You and the Orthodox faith’s fasting traditions and the Orthodox faith’s vine- the sweetest, Eatin G more information on travellin menu variations for children. For on New Year’s Eve, giving good fortune to whoever coin gets Eve, the lucky Year’s on New Vegetarian- may Vegetarians green beans dairy b b night’s urday sou water, or try the chilled li water, b F Greece, religious rituals and cultural celebrations inevitably a In involve feast an the seems no one is too fussed if children run amok seems no one is too fussed if children run amok children, see kids mostly eat what their cance with foreigners. It does go well with strongly with strongly well go It does with foreigners. cance fi Greek wines are produced in relatively small quantities, making many essentially essentially making many quantities, small in relatively produced are wines Greek and Rhodes, Limnos Samos, from muscats include excellent wines dessert Greek the resin- Retsina, and fruit. breakfast, breakfast, made from made from boutique wines (and priced accordingly). House or barrel wine can vary dramatically in dramatically vary wine can or barrel House accordingly). priced (and boutique wines places Few the kilo/carafe. by is ordered and bet), safer the often wine is (white quality glass. the wine by serve Malm- and Monemvasia’s in cooking) used wine (often Mavrodafne Vinsanto, Santorini’s wine. sweet sey summer wine. signi folkloric cially seafood) and you can still still can and you cially seafood) retsina. bottled Greek reds include reds Greek While the wine god Dionysos was tramping the vintage before the Bronze Age, it’s only only it’s Age, Bronze the before the vintage tramping was Dionysos wine god While the wines. world-class producing began wine industry that the Greek recently relatively wine Greece’s leading are winemakers trained internationally New-generation, producing renaissance, GREEK WINE GREEK vours. White wines include include wines White vours. topped with topped ful and ideal ful and ideal tional tangy, tional tangy, for a healthy a healthy for thick-strained thick-strained honey, walnuts walnuts honey, sheep’s milk, is milk, sheep’s Greece’s Greece’s excep- aromatic thyme thyme aromatic yoghurt, usually usually yoghurt, rich and flavour-

754 GREEK CUISINE FESTIVE FOOD 755

Mu sic & Dance For most people, Greek music and dance evokes images of spirited, high- kicking laps around the dance fl oor to the tune of the bouzouki (musical instrument in the lute family), as seen at weddings, tourist hotels and Greek tavernas around the world. The sound of the bouzouki has been synonymous with Greece since the 1960s, when it was introduced to international audiences in Manos Hadzidakis’ theme to the fi lm Never on Sunday and immortalised in Ancient Greek vases depict a Mikis Theodorakis’ soundtrack to Zorba the Greek. circle of dancers Yet Greece’s strong and enduring musical tradition dates back to performing a antiquity, and encompasses a diverse range of musical infl uences and dance similar to styles. Music remains an evolving and integral part of Greek culture, the syrtos, which identity and self-expression. is still danced today. All of the diff erent Greek musical genres are still heard today, with most leading performers at some stage in their careers drawing on laïka (popular urban folk) and rembetika (blues or regional music). Greece’s music scene is also pumping out its share of mindless pop, club music, and even jazz, rock and rap, albeit Greek-style. Traditional Folk Music Greece’s regions have distinct musical style, steeped in local traditions and history. Regional folk music is generally divided intonisiotikaa (the lighter, more upbeat music of the islands), and the more grounded dimotika (regional folk music) of the mainland – where the klarino (clarinet) is prominent and lyrics refer to hard times, war and rural life. The music of Crete, a world-music scene genre in its own right, remains the The memorable most dynamic traditional form, with a strong local following and regular opening-credits performances and new recordings. track from the Traditional folk music was shunned by the Greek bourgeoisie dur- 1994 film Pulp ing the period after Independence, when they looked to Europe – and Fiction was based on surf guitar classical music and opera – rather than their Eastern or ‘peasant’ roots. legend Dirk Dale’s While urban folk music is heard throughout Greece, traditional folk is 1960s version of still popular in rural areas, especially at celebrations. ‘Misirlou’ – originally Rembetika recorded by a Often referred to as the Greek ‘blues’, rembetikaa is one of the most Greek rembetika band around enduring and internationally recognised forms of Greek music. With its 1930. underground roots, its themes cover heartache, hardship, drugs, crime and the grittier elements of urban life. Markos Vamvakaris, acknowledged as the greatest rembetis (mu- sician who plays rembetika), became popular with the fi rst bouzouki group in the early 1930s, revolutionising the sound of popular Greek music. Rembetika’s anti-authoritarian themes made the genre popular among political exiles and left-wing activists during the junta years.

. - - - - d ly os e . ra, ll ned folk ly g g (a litzier, g in . g and elec p and Man s at ain and emi fl from Greece uctions ca er and p kroupeza g emerged in the d oris Bithikotsis raki aa g gg urban popular urban in o ate 1970s to ear gurines found found gurines g (a wind instru- l ïk fi d irit. The late Stelios o la oulos’ music became but had more sym

p intro , , p i d laïka, laïka, s. (pipes), (pipes), avlos k The s went electric and rei with Gri in the i (bagpipe), which share which share (bagpipe), g d iki rovise ular music emerged, led by piktis c , the staccato rap of the of rap the staccato , oetry to the masses by creat ouzouk p p M p b o rembetika gaïda p lyra (half way between the two). between (half way or ‘artistic’ music, they or ‘artistic’ drew on ouzouk ii (lyre) (lyre) b the ik osers s s p utes. Music was an integral part part integral an was Music utes. fl u (similar to a harp). to (similar lyra was revive tzoura o into the mainstream and brin shoot of shoot

ff i oulos continued this new wave by intro- oulos continued this new wave ika uch a k s p et

a (blues music; and later and later music; (blues b s ular music merges elements of traditional hni m n e magadio p o a o rst known fretted instrument and a forerunner and a forerunner instrument fretted known rst n nt uences, but the music emer uences, but voice of this era, alon fi p fl rem e a ression (Theodorakis’ music was banned and the mmercial. The g

k o (mandolin) and the p s y new generations of Gree y new generations ne b . i

trument , the the , . s re c ic d rembetika rembetika . eriod another style of eriod another style s o wn a p (a stringed guitarlike instrument), instrument), guitarlike (a stringed o (baby version) and version) (baby ensembles perform in a row and traditionally play seated lin and Entehn ic m nd in n genu a o olitical ex s i mandolino a . Kn y. A characteristic is im feature y.

kanonaki p ika & s vi ll orary Greek iscovere pandouris a , oser Yiannis Marko kithara et p d articularly and intellectuals among students it continues – and ular hits from the works of Seferis, Elytis, Ritsos and Kavadias ular hits from the works of Seferis, Elytis, Ritsos p b . rural folk-music and traditional instruments such as the rural folk-music and traditional instruments p p with western in baglama tik and s (popular or urban folk music) is Greece’s most popular music (popular or urban folk music) is Greece’s g oser jailed) o aa p em e re m be p reme, while the sentimental tunes about love, loss, reme, while the sentimental tunes about love, nterest i nic dance mu ka b ïk During the junta years Theodorakis’ and Marko During this Com I R p (oud), the strident sound of the Cretan the Cretan of sound the strident (oud), x ï m o a erformers such as Crete’s legendary Nikos Xylouris to the fore legendary Xylouris Nikos erformers such as Crete’s honic arrangements. They also brought enre. A mainstream musical o e a ducin a form of Kazantzidis was the bi com tr p Contemporary Musi & Pop Contem la r p ing Laïka Laïka L g late ’50s and ’60s, when the clubs in Athens became bi culture and s gration came to embody the nation’s acoustica t outstanding classically trained com today also includes local takes on folk rock, heavy metal, ra on folk rock, heavy also includes local takes today to su Hatzidaki and the mu santouri ’80s – (similar to a cello) and the a cello) to (similar outi santouri santouri (lap drum), the (lap drum),

) bouzouki-like ) bouzouki-like barbitos was rembetes In contemporary and traditional Greek music, you may also hear the plucked strings strings the plucked hear also may you music, Greek and traditional In contemporary The ubiquitous bouzouki, the six- or eight-stringed (tuned in pairs) long-necked lute- long-necked (tuned in pairs) or eight-stringed the six- bouzouki, The ubiquitous Other ancient musical instruments included the instruments ancient musical Other trichordo multistringed multistringed many characteristics with instruments all over the Middle East, along with the the Middle East, all over instruments with characteristics many of the bulbous the bulbous of toumberleki music), along with the along with music), like instrument most associated with contemporary Greek music, is a relative newcomer newcomer is a relative music, Greek with contemporary associated most instrument like it Minor, Asia from immigrants in the 1900s by Greece into Reintroduced the scene. to of instrument the central became ment), ment), percussion instrument), instrument), percussion to many stringed instrument families. instrument stringed many to holding musical instruments resembling harps and harps resembling instruments musical holding Ar- Marble (at the National Mantineia The 4th-century-BC and theatre. ancient life of a three-string playing rock on a seated a muse depicts Athens) of Museum chaeological ( Greece’s musical tradition dates back at least to the 2000 BC Cycladic BC Cycladic the 2000 to least at back dates tradition musical Greece’s SOUNDS GREECE OF supports the the supports or concealed or concealed easily carried carried easily as it could be as it could octave higher. octave baglamas and prisoners, and prisoners, cells. It usually It usually cells. cuted cuted bouzouki and is bouzouki gled into prison prison gled into A A mini-bouzouki materials smug- materials of sorts, the tiny the tiny sorts, of choice for perse- for choice pitched about an pitched assembled out of out of assembled the instrument of of the instrument under clothing, or under clothing,

756 MUSIC & DANCE LAÏKA & ENTEHNA MUSIC & DANCE GREEK DANCE 757 . ed fi by Gail by , the , ected ected rembe- fl s and Road to to Road bagla- Tradition of a Greek a Greek of became became Sorrow and Sorrow Underworld: Underworld: Songs of the of Songs Sub-Culture: Sub-Culture: is Ed Emery’s Emery’s is Ed translation of of translation Songs of Love, Love, of Songs a fine account a fine account The Rembetika The Rembetika Hashish of the genre, as the genre, of Holst-Warhaft is Holst-Warhaft Rembetika: Rembetika: Music Elias Petropoulos’ Elias Petropoulos’ c and beloved manges fi os, Syro os, at multistringed multistringed at

fl - - - - y a ( ll ld- rembetika am (vocal improvisa- (vocal g arizou or Café Aman music or Café enism. p ll songstresses, and Ma- songstresses, . aloniki, Vol aloniki, santouri santouri the . d in ancient ess d eria, Dimitr and k on the wor ustry y k was the music of the under- the music of was Demis Roussos Demis songs were often often were songs amanedhes l d Smyrneika an artists as we g Rebetiko . rembetika awn of He of awn lk onstantinou, Dimi onstantinou, d k lm erforme an of Greece. Distin an of Greece. fi a l Ba p kanonaki p d exiou, G ux of refugees from Asia Minor in Minor in Asia from refugees ux of . l fl ing a mar music in music rembetika rembetika l is k rembetika l (urban popular music) with the lyrics re- with the lyrics popular music) (urban ethnic jazz fusion artists , performers Yiannis include ances the Dy oca a d l ance, nostalgia and lament, the lyrics re the lyrics and lament, nostalgia ance, d

ka fi

ï l laïka aras, who has covere aras, who e g l s. performers and composers emerged, essentially essentially emerged, and composers performers ife since the l la or pointy shoes lopped). Many artists stopped stopped artists Many lopped). shoes or pointy

e Haris A e Haris bb ff , are ma l l d u as Ferris’ 1983 as Ferris’ u e Da d l with Latin an g halidi (hash dens that inspired many songs). many (hash dens that inspired aga d s l . os, socia Cost i Thanos Petre l k k d Pa rembetika e P s ou d orate p b (oud), guitar, mandolin, mandolin, guitar, (oud), a tekedhes Mo ll music inc rst-ever Eurovision Song Contest win in 2005) . People were arrested for carrying a bouzouki (and apparently (and apparently a bouzouki carrying for arrested were People . inspired inspired k d outi fi co erformers have made it big internationally – 1970s internationally it big made erformers have d erive from the ritua p art of Gree e veteran Geor e d p d which had large Greek populations, and in Th and in populations, Greek which had large ou an nown – there is a stron – there is a nown l u l modern troubadour’ Alkinoos Ioannides, with his rock modern troubadour’ Ioannides, Alkinoos k and Miltiadi ‘ s tekedhes ou een scene, Greece’s answer to Madonna is Anna Vissi, while answer to Madonna scene, Greece’s icons Nana Mouskouri and kaftan-wearin Mouskouri Nana icons eftheria Arvanita p while other notable fusion bands include the Cretan while other notable fusion b Dionysis Savo Dionysis l p est , g ances d o b Antonis Remos an d music an music E , p

outh vote. Headline modern outh vote. Headline k d udaki ong with singer-songwriters Thanasisong with singer-songwriters Pa y ired songs and ballads, is one of the stand-out new-generation ballads, is one of the ired songs and l o lk women of Gree p (a baby bouzouki) dominated. With the in With dominated. bouzouki) (a baby d riot-born was recorded in the 1920s), the styles somewhat overlapped and overlapped somewhat the styles in the 1920s), recorded was names inc names The music later morphed into lighter lighter morphed into The music later Although hashish was illegal, the law was rarely enforced until the mid-1930s when until the mid-1930s enforced rarely was the law illegal, Although hashish was of wave WWII a new After The second style evolved in Piraeus, where where in Piraeus, evolved style The second Piraeus after the 1922 population exchange (many also went to America where where America to went also (many population exchange the 1922 after Piraeus p hile fewhile Greek g ired Haïnides. cclaimed vocal artist Savina Yannatou cclaimed vocal artist Savina ani an Zerv ecting more social and sentimental themes. It was played in bigger clubs with electri clubs in bigger played It was themes. and sentimental social ecting more rst emerged in the mid- to late-19th century in the thriving port cities of Smyrna and Smyrna of in the thriving port cities century late-19th in the mid- to emerged rst p l fl smartly dressed (often hashish-smoking and knife-carrying), street-wise outcasts who outcasts street-wise and knife-carrying), hashish-smoking (often smartly dressed in the and danced sang the original essence. much of losing bands, fi Constantinople, Two styles make up what is broadly known as known up what is broadly make styles Two THE GREEK BLUES GREEK THE instrument). and family) in the lute instrument (musical bouzouki and the six-stringed class, tika with de Infused the ghettos. the music of of The protagonists life. of themes the bleaker mas composers, Apostolos Kaldaras, Yiannis Papaioannou, Georgos Mitsakis, Apostolos Apostolos Mitsakis, Georgos Papaioannou, Yiannis Kaldaras, Apostolos composers, the great one of who was Bellou, Sotiria Hatzihristou, whose life rika Ninou, Metaxas attempted to wipe out the subculture through censorship, police harassment harassment police censorship, through wipe out the subculture to attempted Metaxas on and raids clandestinely. though the music continued and recording, performing proli the most one of Tsitsanis, Vasilis including side, seedy eliminating its Athens. Characterised by a rich vocal style, with haunting style, a rich vocal by Characterised Athens. instru- The predominant oriental sound. it had a more lyrics, Turkish and occasional tions) the violin, were ments had half their slick moustaches cut o had half their slick moustaches On the A Cy Bi W reek Danc s outarhos a l uishe enre-defyin rtists, a s Sting, an emain the emain ri olk-ins who claimed Greece’s who claimed Greece’s idol Mihalis Hatziyiannis and Greek-Swedish singer Elena Pa and Greek-Swedish singer Hatziyiannis idol Mihalis Dancing has P G ins ( a t music scene g G f r ut of Gree a g have the have Kristi Stasino Kristi Some fo

, . - - - - s p iko on re- , t ften the ects i, o g fl while , , medi . s izio g seen on v osition of y uld dance otsar p o ectin k raceful and fl ale t wa i g . clubs clubs m r w or often used o (

rominence, with ere s Zorba dance’ (as Zorba dance’ (open-air fes- (open-air ‘ p h ether ed, re ance and a covert fi hant fi art of military edu lised dance for two g y p hbours. In Crete you hbours. In p ni w , g g Greek folk dances are while the bouzoukia uence y arately fl with its whirlin ika p , t o panigyria panigyria is a st , lace to see traditional danc- rtos, be (blues) clubs and glitzy, and glitzy, clubs (blues) ower-throwing (plate- ower-throwing p fl ki lace among the international aloniki, as well as the larger as the larger as well aloniki, ressing sorrow and joy kik m sy e e p p r b rta ess m evil in n o the and had their own dances sy i originally from Kalamata, re ) eïm d were danced to z , . Second-rate Second-rate . a fr s the dance most commonl s t rembetika i is slow and di ff or here of the islands gave rise to light, here of the islands gave

s an the fast and trium o i icted there on ancient Greek vases and ), p and Th

u tival. s k p s ikos so rtos, tetel ree ts roots m f elve i with its agility-testing high kicks and lea high with its agility-testing ballos h on hashish. Women have their own sensu have h on hashish. Women G sy s

is de sa g es taking their tsi li, e bouzoukia t ation it became an act of de ect climate of the region or dis the w p as

h fl p y h rtos gure or object. Dancing was orous and warlike dances such as the orous and warlike fi a t onnese tradition. Theso-called sinewy show of femininity evolved sinewy from the Middle show of femininity g , b p orary dance in Greece is gaining sy n the . entoza p o or eal them ons, nal Dance Fe The best oors these days. p i fl s nd. The best bet is at regional is at regional bet The best nd. Z o

fi . o ectacular solo male restigious Kalamata International Dance Festival and the Dance Festival restigious Kalamata International sat p i p . Opa! . t. dance known Kalamatiano a svelte fi , y or doghouses – apparently because the crooning singers singers crooning the because – apparently or doghouses

les. The ants, and dance is a way of ex ants, and dance is a way y ed in namic orm in clubs in Athens Athens clubs in orm in rov p p p roud Pelo s rder t dances such as the y p p o iros, the statel p dern take dern take years of altercations with their Turkish nei years of altercations with their Turkish local dance trou m teteli at the p Internati o i f g g s rtali p artici o m tsi p

ve i Dance styles often re Dance styles A Women and men traditionally danced se Women The often s The bright and cheery atmos In E s ringy dances such as the skyladhika erformed in a circular in ancient times, dancers formed a formation; uickening beat uickening u ears of p ectin Eastern bell or three men or women with linked arms on each other’s shoulders arms on each other’s or three men or women with linked the courtshi around an altar, tree, around an altar, and slo the graceful have line-u q tat o y circle with an everthough the modern variation is danced in a long cation; in times of occu Greek tem p Athen circle in s skin contact to avoid handkerchiefs way to kee way the contrary, have vi have the contrary, danced while drunk or hi leadin tables and dance fl are references to dances in Homer’s works. Man in Homer’s are references to dances Greeks often cold and insular nature of mountain life. The Pontian and the d most widel imm ing is at festivals around Greece and at the Dora Stratou Dance Theatreing is at festivals around Greece and at the Dora in Athens. Contem (good spirits or mojo) spirits (good kefi kefi Authentic folk music is hard to to music is hard folk Authentic intimate many includes music scene live Athens’ music. Byzantine Byzantine abroad, and abroad, are referred to as to referred are the seeing for the venues are These a whining dog. resemble smashing is rare these days), wanton (and expensive) displays of exuberance, excess excess exuberance, of displays (and expensive) wanton days), these smashing is rare and expensive, cabaret-style venues known as known venues cabaret-style expensive, regional towns. regional – tap into to is easier music scene vibrant Crete’s summer. during Greece around tivals) ask around. or poles and power telephone around and pasted at tavernas posters look for During summer you can see Greece’s leading acts in outdoor concerts around the the around concerts outdoor in acts leading Greece’s see can you summer During perf they In winter country. GREEK GIG GUIDE GIG GREEK days, though days, in Greece and in Greece the music has heard in Greek in Greek heard influenced folk folk influenced churches these these churches music is mostly music is mostly Byzantine hymns hymns Byzantine are performed by by performed are choirs in concerts in concerts choirs

758 MUSIC & DANCE GREEK DANCE 759

Art & Literature Modern Greek Art Works by leading Greek contemporary artists take pride of place in the Athens metro, but ‘modern’ art is relatively new to Greece. Until Byzantine the start of the 19th century, Byzantine religious painting was the churches were primary art form. There was little artistic output during Ottoman rule, usually decorated with frescoes during which Greece was essentially shielded from the Renaissance. on a dark blue Byzantine church frescoes and icons were usually decorated with background with scenes from the life of Christ and fi gures of the saints; later centuries saw a bust of Christ more detailed narratives such as scenes from the miracles of Christ. The in the dome, ‘Cretan school’ of icon painting, infl uenced by the Italian Renaissance the four Gospel writers in the and artists fl eeing to Crete after the fall of Constantinople, combined pendentives sup- technical brilliance and dramatic richness. porting the dome Modern Greek art per se started after Independence, when paint- and the Virgin ing became more secular in nature. Artists focussed on portraits, and Child in the nautical themes and representations of the War of Independence. apse. Major 19th-century painters included Dionysios Tsokos, Theodoros Vryzakis, Nikiforos Lytras and Nicholas Gyzis, a leading artist of the Munich school (where many Greek artists of the day went). From the fi rst decades of the 20th century, artists such as Konstan- tinos Parthenis, Fotis Kontoglou, Konstantinos Kaleas and, later, the expressionist George Bouzianis used their heritage and incorporated developments in modern art. Signifi cant artists of the ’30s generation were cubist Nikos Hatzik yriakos-Ghikas, surrealist artist and poet Nikos Engonopoulos, Yiannis Tsarouhis and Panayiotis Tetsis. Other leading 20th-century artists include Yannis Moralis, Dimitris Mytaras, Yannis Tsoklis and abstract artists Yannis Gaitis and Alekos Fassianos, the latter’s work fetches record prices for a living Greek artist. Yiannis Kounellis is a pioneer of the Arte Provera movement, while Giorgos Zongolopoulos is best known for his trademark um- brella sculptures. BYZANTINE The marble sculpture tradition endures on Tinos, the island that gave rise to two of the foremost modern Greek sculptors, Dimitrios Filippotis and Yannoulis Halepas.

GREEK ART SCENE

Athens’ burgeoning contemporary arts scene exhibits local and international artists at galleries centred mostly in Psyrri, Kolonaki and Metaxourghio. The National Art Gallery has the most extensive collections of Greek 20th-century art, along with the National Museum of Contemporary Art and the National Sculpture Gallery. The Municipal Gal- lery of Rhodes has one of the most extensive collections of 20th-century Greek art outside Athens.

- - s d p- d- k n rize lays lays lays a end- sur

cent p p p fi itions p p es b ni ee- awar fl g lv . d o a W an nn e e ut to music by small inroads art exhi g p are in are k ado whose novels are verses are recited , adiamantis, Kostis adiamantis, Kostis ectur Littl M g j ction is translated p fi and ee ) ene Trivizas, who has ene Trivizas, and the tortured Ca aid g ) novelist of the early ) lets Thr rm oets include Nobel- p e can be seen in Athens Athens in be seen can e orary p h p oem ‘Erotokritos’, by Crete’s oem ‘Erotokritos’, ist Eu T M ecame the Greek national art is on the rise, with wor laywrights such as Yiorgos laywrights p g b k p he

Baptism of Christ of Baptism T e

St Peter m d Alexandros Pa contemporary Gree . . s ostolos Doxiadis with his interna- gure Iakovos Kambanellis, whose gure Iakovos d and p fi an erience as a concentration cam th the hit and rhyming cou g p Zorba the Greek ella is ern Gree ( t ( ea and translated

d i ( St oets were Andreas Kalvos and Dionysios n D ern an p a d bas d n r adhes a o . n Arv ortant of early Greek literature is the works Z i mo er-than-life characters, such as the ma any of the 15-syllableany rhymin m p g mn to Freedo d is nt M y x laywright Angelos Sikelianos rank among Greece’s rank among Greece’s Angelos Sikelianos laywright a . ncle Petros and Goldbach’s Con and Goldbach’s ncle Petros H p . ublishing industry small, inde includes many asilis eedo m U r os Ale p ts, including d. s F ost-war literary reek Literatur ic romantic 10,000-line lish. Greek writers are, however, makin lish. Greek writers are, however, e Seferis and Odysseus Elytis, awarded in 1963 and 1979 e Seferis and Odysseus Elytis, awarded interest in mo . p l u oet- p g g p c g The Burial of Christ The Burial of ght for art and freedom was the subject of the €7 million the subject of was freedom art and ght for fi

o fi p G roa is the controversial Kazantzakis Nikos r in in rnar novel about his ex reat novelist of the time, Stratis Myrivilis, wrote the classics reat novelist of the time, Stratis Myrivilis, b y s e . o n g t a roli s most celebrated se K ’ fam whose p ac , ld children’s writer and criminolo children’s estseller r u rst modern Greek ’s lm scri lm fi os g fi a b ublishing houses, but little contem ublishing houses, but little h ha c p ectively rete nother

enz ut p s e e in the Tomb, V C Prominent Prominent A The Greece Internationa t f i erformed abroad y 19th- and 20th-century lead artists new records in London’s setting eing he enerations of musicians ivor was set Theodorakis, Mikis to music by wrote more than 20 nt titl 17th-century e the Big Bad Pi into foreign markets, such as A full of drama and lar tain Michali Modern One of the most im g b ing auction an houses, b Palamas and Palamas V locally into En res p Contemporary Writer Greece’s e winnin Ma v and 12 laureates Geor Solomos literary distinguished giants, while in 20th centur more than 100 books, includin anthem. Greece’s eminent 20th-centuryanthem. Greece’s tional Li Skourtis and Pavlos Matessis have been translated and their have Matessis Skourtis and Pavlos (2007). Concert of Angels, of Concert

El Greco View of Mt Sinai, The Monastery of St Catherine St of The Monastery Mt Sinai, of View (2010) is (2010) (2005) and (2005) (2007). El Greco’s In his early 20s, El Greco went to Venice but came into his own after moving to Spain Spain to moving after his own into but came Venice to went El Greco 20s, his early In crime series. crime series. corruption in corruption Zone Defence Zone like Inspector Inspector like quirky Rebus- quirky at the National Art Gallery, two signed works hang in the Benaki Museum, also in Athens, Athens, in also hang in the Benaki Museum, signed works two Art Gallery, at the National while Iraklio’s Historical Museum of Crete. of Museum Historical Iraklio’s in 1577, where his highly emotional style struck a chord with the Spanish. He lived in To- in He lived the Spanish. with a chord struck style his highly emotional where in 1577, His in 1614. death ledo until his ing Ottoman-held Constantinople. ing Ottoman-held biopic Renaissance painter El Greco (‘The Greek’ in Spanish), nee Dominikos Theotokopoulos, Theotokopoulos, nee Dominikos in Spanish), (‘The Greek’ El Greco painter Renaissance painting fresco late-Byzantine of in the tradition grounding his He got born in Crete. was painters of the arrival following on the island, activity artistic great of during a time EL GRECO EL into crime and crime into The Late Night The Late the eyes of the the of the eyes Athens through through Athens Che Committed Che Committed Enjoy an insight Enjoy Haritos in Petros in Petros Haritos Suicide English, following following English, News Markaris’ popular Markaris’ his latest novel to to novel his latest be translated into into be translated

760 ART & LITERATURE MODERN GREEK LITERATURE ART & LITERATURE MODERN GREEK LITERATURE 761 reviews and reviews .ekebi.gr) on .ekebi.gr) journal (www Ithaca Online Online Ithaca check out the hensive Greek Greek hensive book database book database author profiles For Greek book book Greek For the Greek Book Book the Greek can be found at be found can while a compre- Centre’s website, website, Centre’s www.biblionet.gr.

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, r Fo itan generation of authors is ta itan generation l orary include author and news voices o resents a new generation of authors p p p ation issue . oraryErsi include in translation writers Greek l l Thanassis Va , p Maro Douka’s Maro u ed Hai , . o y S d olia dern literature tran dern literature t n o a a Red-D ’ m g rt the trans An Other contem d in os oulou, who wrote the acclaimed 1999 the acclaimed who wrote oulou, ea , in English ll ell p o H exis Stamatis re w Ioanna Karystiani, a who Ioanna roach. After novel his well-received asse h e t Al The current cosmo Kedr Leading contem d r p tter Orange Trees tter Orange i arg estse y ugue. n pp their stories outside Greece their stories outside columnist Amanda Mihalako F b M b a Fa Sotiro Bi a author of award-winning author of award-winning English, while best-selling author Soti Triandafyllou, also wrot Soti Triandafyllou, best-selling author English, while W 762

Nature & Wildlife While Greece is a perfect place to rub shoulders with ancient stat- ues, it’s equally ideal for getting up close to nature by hiking through the wildfl owers, coming eye-to-eye with a loggerhead turtle or simply stretching out on a beach. Greece has something for everyone who wants to get out and explore. Greece is the most seismically Experiencing the Outdoors active country in Europe, with more than half of Greek Geography the continent’s No matter where you go in Greece, it’s impossible to be much more than volcanic activity. 100km from the sea. Rugged mountains, indigo water and seemingly innumerable islands dominate the Greek landscape which was shaped by submerging seas, volcanic explosions and mineral-rich terrain. The mainland covers 131,944 sq km, with an indented coastline stretch- ing for 15,020km. Mountains rise over 2000m and occasionally tum- ble down into plains, particularly in Thessaly and Thrace. Meanwhile, the Aegean and Ionian Seas fl ow between and link together the coun- try’s 1400 islands, with just 169 of them inhabited. These islands fi ll 400,000 sq km of territorial waters. For those with a penchant for geography, Greece rocks. During the Triassic, Jurassic, Cretaceous and even later geological periods, Greece was a shallow oxygen-rich sea. The continuous submerging of land created large tracts of limestone through the whole submarine land mass. Later, as the land emerged from the sea to form the backbone of the current topography, a distinctly eroded landscape with crystalline rocks and other valuable minerals began to appear, marking the spine that links the north and south of the mainland today. Limestone caves are a major feature of this karst landscape, shaped by the dissolution of a soluble layer of bedrock. Volcanic activity once regularly rocked Greece with force – one of the world’s largest volcanic explosions was on Santorini around 1650 The Greek BC. Today earthquakes continue to shake the country on a smaller Orthodox Church is the second- scale but with almost predictable frequency. In 1999, a 5.9-magnitude largest landowner earthquake near Athens killed nearly 150 people and left thousands in Greece. homeless. In 2008, three separate quakes of 6.5-magnitude shook the Peloponnese but caused little damage. To check out Greece’s explosive past, visit the craters of Santorini, Nisyros and Polyvotis. Greece is short on rivers, with none that are navigable, although they’ve become popular locations for white-water rafting. The largest rivers are the Aheloös, Aliakmonas, Aoös and Arahthos, all of which have their source in the Pindos Mountains of Epiros. The long plains of the river valleys, and those between the moun- tains and the coast, form Greece’s only lowlands. The mountainous terrain, dry climate and poor soil leave farmers at a loss and less than NATURE & WILDLIFE EXPERIENCING THE OUTDOORS 763

kri-kri local herbs. local book by Maria Maria book by seasoned with seasoned tification guide tification is an illustrative is an illustrative and a cookbook and a cookbook as both an iden- for Greek dishes dishes Greek for that can be used be used that can Herbs in Cooking in Herbs and Nikos Psilakis Psilakis and Nikos - uate ecies, sh farms, are permit- are sh farms, q fi owers p e fl d eted with . p ll see locals ’ is ina . ewhere Eu- in d ls the ravages of the ravages d e an e l . d p e ll nite g er zones protecting an inner wilderness an inner wilderness protecting er zones ff more than 100 varieties more than of eriod of blossoming (p 651 ) – Covers six islands and651 22 islets in (p d ra unriva onnese. Trees begin to blossom onnese. Trees p o p

fl ar, with more than 6000 s with more than 6000 ar, l ring the hillsides are car cent backdrop. cent the Lefkaowers are Ori mountains fi se, an p fl of l ecause most of the ecause most y (p 276 ) – Home to Greece’s tallest mountain,276 rich (p in warmer areas and the wild in warmer areas and the (p 134 ) – Very popular wooded134 parkland north (p of b (p 308 ) – Excellent hiking308 with caves, canyons (p and y has therefore esca has therefore (p 212 ) – Towering limestone and212 scenic views down to (p ectacu d p rout even from the rocks. By summer the anese, bauxite and li bauxite and anese, p g rst established in Greece in 1938 with the creation of Mt Olympus of with the creation in 1938 in Greece established rst fi (p 221 ) – Tranquil stretches of forest,221 meadows and pools. (p ture an l eared from everywhere but the northern moun (see At Loggerheads, p 701 ) – An Ionian refuge for loggerhead loggerhead for refuge Ionian An – ) 701 p Loggerheads, At (see (p477) – Spectacular gorge in Crete and a refuge for the with a variet with (p 131 ) – A cape with panoramic131 views and home to the Temple (p of s. s (p 282 ) – One of Europe’s oldest lakes,282 steeped in wildlife (p and pp d er owers are s owers s fl er areas, but no activities other than walking are allowed in the protected in the protected allowed are than walking other but no activities er areas, ff owe ld d ear in March. During s ear in March. ower pp fl as the end of Februar y . They continue to thrive icking fresh herbs for their kitchen. Locallyicking fresh herbs for their grown herbs are also d Facilities for visitors are often basic; abundant walking trails are not always main- always not are trails abundant walking basic; often are visitors for Facilities Most of the parks are surrounded by bu by surrounded are the parks of Most p Iti National Park National Iti Vikos-Aoös National Park National Vikos-Aoös Laganas of Bay Samaria Gorge Samaria Sounion Cape Parnassos National Park National Parnassos Lakes Prespa National Marine Park of Alonnisos of Park Marine National Mt Parnitha National Park National Parnitha Mt Mt Olympus National Park Olympus National Mt ild e. Thewi

uarter of the land is cultivated. Greece is, however, rich in minerals, rich uarter is cultivated.the land of however, is, Greece ora and fauna of Greece. Greece. of and fauna ora Herbs grow wild throughout much of Greece and you grow wild throughout much of Greece Herbs The the most wild regions with » » » » » » » » » » (Cretan goat) Home to eagles, deer and boar and deer eagles, to Home Delphi turtles the Sporades and is home to monk seals, dolphins and rare birdlife rare and dolphins seals, monk to home is and Sporades the Poseidon area. Some activities, such as grazing, woodcutting, camping and camping woodcutting, such as grazing, activities, Some area. tranquillity forest dense National Park and followed quickly by the establishment of Parnassos National Park. National Park. Parnassos of the establishment quickly by and followed National Park the unique protect which aim to marine parks and two national parks 10 now are There fl little matter the facilities most, To simple. is very refuges basic of tained and the clutch magni nature’s to when compared National Parks were in Greece the wild side of experiencing worth well it’s the opportunity, have If you area. settings. these one of NATIONAL PARKS NATIONAL in the bu ted Athens; home to the red deer flora and considered the home of the gods p ith reserves of oil, man q s earl

hemical fertili o ainous regions. Autumn brings a newainous regions. Autumn or intensive agricuor intensive owers have disa owers have owers, which seem to s owers, which increasingly sold as souvenirs and are generally organic generally and are increasingly sold as souvenirs out fl t a fl f c W is en Greece r a w start to a orchi some of which occursome of which nowhere e in Crete and the Mani area of the Pelo in Crete and the Mani

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ie ld fi c l ers b hi olia) f herds’ w Green , p d. , ini num s believed p ’ ll insurance ot any wi ot any d p nd the Peristeri fi as in the Da- , , they’ve more ll . g a car astures on graz- y p , it has tradition www.arcturos.gr y to s lane tree shading ean Bern Conven- it scurrying out of ( ) l and the other 50% p p ( e ear in Greece nowa- k bb ive in sma ast count, there were Ostr i b l l l ( owers. Another com- fl erience mountainsides indiscriminate (and il p ’ ves iros, as we in the mountains that erth if encountere l see the boxed text p d b ( and housin os Mountains g e d Government an d er the Euro k d , hare or ra res olf Sanctuary l . es, an fi k W hornbeam un p d e. However, at e. However, Platanus orientalis insularis) ( a La etter chance to see one etter the bl p b o le water p e given a wi e given , boat buildin humans, you are un ers in the Pin s. The Gree lane fox, wease rotecte b g e’s largest land mammal, still manages to e’s tiles and small mammals k b

p p by as sta p er. If you want to see a er. p

os Mountains in E os Mountains dd lay of white-clustered lay ld d d d d oc p fl e rus d ings. The surviving wo fi razin or ite es which often roam the higher p num emote mountains of northern Greece continue to ensation for livestock lost to wolves but it doesn g ll onia for a b heading for the Arcturos Bear Sanctuary (www r b d i ff ll p d ove the Pres shou k assi b d l for g very village on the mainland has a f, which is which f, for Wildlife y c l oison baits in retaliation for the occasional marauding e erve t area. Head attitu y inha ll garian o l p g s uare, however lush forests that once covered ancient the l e more d ay com ay ne in the wild. e ered from severe forest q w ow the a h p if en jackal is a strong candidate for Greece’s most misunder en jackal is a strong candidate for Greece’s ff of carrion, re o l d s b p ing of their ld cia l t Re . T ffi rown bear, Euro rown bear, a ee s y s to 100 are killed annually by farmers ecies is the Cy s b s other than the o . Northern is the only region that has retained Greece signi

l p re ) p anies use of o e grey o ortshe a wide range of wildlife, including wild dogs and ) p h mau ear to s eem n The Groun T The go The d s pp ong the Bu ogs with pp l our wa ears of clearin

days you’re better o better you’re days a survive in very sma mon s su its central s only an estimated 200 to 300 surviving in the wild and it that u anima tion, is o stood mammal. Although its diet is 50% vegetarian legal near Aetos in Mace arcturos.gr) in the village of Nymfeo in Macedonia as it’s extremely as it’s in Macedonia arcturos.gr) of Nymfeo in the village rare t O areas wi In y d cant areas of native forest and here you can excant areas of native forest dis noted for its lavish thrives wherever there is am Watchin Forests It y in the forests of the Pin a covered with dense thickets of ho dia F recently su com an Range that rises a is made u Greece are increasingly rare. Having been decimated by thousands of been decimated by thousands of rare. Having Greece are increasingly Issues ing mountains an tion Nature Greece’s relationship with its wildlife has not been a happy one. Hunting of wild animals wild animals of Hunting one. happy been a has not wildlife with its relationship Greece’s true particularly This is food. providing of as a means with Greeks activity is a popular signs Despite is legendary. hunters of the partisanship where regions in mountainous While game. potential at any freely shoot often hunters Greek hunting, forbidding wild boars often is the main game species, endangered and rare include this can animals, and cunning destructive Considered antiquity. since been around which have a lower due to likely decades, in recent has increased wild boars of the number culling them. of hunting is an important means that argue Many predators. number of will and you farms breeding wild boar of number an increasing is also There DON’T BE A BOAR boar on many menus. on many boar Conserva- Going green Sea Sea turtles Birdlife Birdlife (www Wildflowers Pelicans Pelicans and

» » » » » (www.cleanup greece.org.gr) (www.archelon.gr) .ornithologiki.gr) (www.greekmoun tainflora.info) pygmy cormorants cormorants pygmy (www.spp.gr)

764 NATURE & WILDLIFE WATCHING FOR WILDLIFE NATURE & WILDLIFE WATCHING FOR WILDLIFE 765

- - - - - y y a l ot to . p . e p ance p h the and envi- nd organic d fi g athways un summer p b

d d is on man ring from Af of Samos y p d ess, thou ecially in Thra s an l p d an articular draws l at the island an ring an now survives on ff sh-eating birds in sh-eating birds is the oldest and is the oldest s are in a p p fi ) d d o e who come to s p p .gr in ) p in s d rewood gathering, shipbuilding, housing shipbuilding, gathering, rewood az es on roa fi l p on the is on the ti d p ities. Lizar l Mytilini elican – Turkey and Greece are elican – Turkey ( p ation an ation l www.ek ing re without one of these curious without one crea ecies that sto due to social need, whereby demolition would leave leave demolition would whereby due to social need, ( l u ecies in 1990 an ecies in ll p ooded. Areas at greatest risk include the Evros Delta, Delta, risk include the Evros at greatest Areas ooded. reece an reece p p fl e where this large bird is found. Thee where this large bird o G s p

ordable housing. ordable p y the majority are harm y the majority in Greece as the countr l ital d ff l y p s and church towers, and can weigh u s and church towers, and e essary k p aths. Lesvos reventative measure. Near the brink of extincthe brink of reventative Near measure. p e can cause fata e can cause rotecte p eld da ry-stone wa k p ecies such as egrets,cormorants and herons, fi d ot these wrigg p a p d sna l y a y s dl are istrictcentra of bl l r d res are slow. are res ec fi a res are a major problem, with many thousands of hectares destroyed an- destroyed hectares of thousands with many a major problem, are res oles, chimney to re than 279 recorded s d fi an eye for them in northern out Greece, es d o p i p res is blamed on rising Mediterranean temperatures and high winds. Massive Massive and high winds. temperatures is blamed on rising Mediterranean res the cora k fi d inevita f m ll e, including s as well as the rare Dalmatian as well as the rare Dalmatian o , p Forest Forest Illegal development of mainly coastal areas and building in forested or protected or protected and building in forested areas mainly coastal of development Illegal Global warming is playing havoc with the Greek thermometer and it’s believed that believed and it’s thermometer with the Greek havoc is playing warming Global there is har shouldered much of the blame for attacks on stock and has been has and stock on for attacks the blame of much shouldered er an res on Mt Parnitha and in the Peloponnese in the summer of 2007 destroyed large large destroyed 2007 in the summer of and in the Peloponnese on Mt Parnitha res The Hellenic Wildlife Hos Wildlife The Hellenic Greece has an active Greece sna d y over the country. Fortunate over the country. nually, often in some of the most picturesque areas of Greece. The increasing scale of of scale The increasing Greece. of areas picturesque the most of in some often nually, recent fi the landscape. of the face and changed villages, as entire as well vegetation, of tracts address to attempts and that its is ill-prepared that the government argue locals Many the annual ronmentally sustainable restaurants and businesses. However, long-standing problems problems long-standing However, and businesses. restaurants sustainable ronmentally cultivation Live years. of thousands back date erosion and soil such as deforestation while been the main culprits, have and goats their toll. all taken have and industry a with no alternative residents GREEN ISSUES GREEN leading society, Greece of the fabric into seep is beginning to awareness Environmental is recycling has begun in schools, education Environmental change. but positive slow to may you villages smallest in the and even in cities, common more at introduc- attempts Despite the 1970s. since momentum in Greece has gained areas an and the lack of corruption groups, and environmental locals by and protests ing laws The issue the land-grab. abate little is done to means the laws enforce to infrastructure The developments sprawl. urban and increased population growth by is complicated developments few A wildlife. and endangered supplies on water strain put a severe often have buildings the illegal cases, in more however years; in recent down been torn have nec deemed been legalised, by the end of the century the average temperature in Athens will rise by 8°C, while some while some 8°C, by will rise Athens in temperature the average the century the end of by land will be coastal km of 560 sq Corfu, Crete and Rhodes. Crete Corfu, me p uro ll n lectricity ou wi e in Macedonia. Thrace of the richest colony has e in Macedonia. ica and returning to the same nests year after year. These are built on ica and returning year after to the same nests year. egular following of birders from all over Euro egular following of birders ion, it was ion, it ures clambering around. ures clambering vi north–south migratory E r e c r so more visible visitors, arriving in early s Storks are nually. largest wildlife rehabilitation centre in Greece and southern Euro in Greece and southern rehabilitation centre largest wildlife In The Ai a Birdwatchers have all a t t y a as a by farmers hunted ibises now the only countries in Euro now the only countries in the Fo in the 50kg; kee - - - y k ed an p arg- l pp Caret roc Mona ( een re- ( d b s minus- ’ e’s last 15 last e’s hins are a e p p p t, which has t, which l has dro ) for 23 of them. sti d d his orades and on Ti e p birds – the avocet, birds 60% of the world’s world’s 60% of the hins from the ferry ay host to the host ay g p ( g p pl ture, whose wings ture, whose ense forests an ense forests the monk seal l , d shing nets. shing u -win fi v k

close to the border with the border to close onelli’s eagle and the shy, the shy, eagle and onelli’s ot dol , k ing groun ac B p . d hinus del ac bl recarious existence in Greece. p p bl ree eri in the S able wadin . fi b . p (Del the d iant ecies are now considered vulnerable. g leonora’s falcon leonora’s p E , an hins ellers, rubbish, sun-loungers and beach ellers, rubbish, sun-loungers ia Forest Reserve ia Forest it is a k p p d d e the ea ro d b p that the turtles’ nesting time coincides with

u l g p m Da ast decade. The main threats to dol k ly and entanglement in p - egs. l q on vulture and the golden eagle. Euro on vulture a

ff pp k s of prey Thirty-six in Europe. of the 38 European curvin in e, that of the endangered loggerheade, that of the endangered turtle ents inc ekes out an extremely out an ekes d g p p ) airs of the rare airs of the d agle nest on the river delta the river agle nest on ir p e e Se on e seen here, an e seen here, b l b h nest on the island of Pi nest on the island of The loggerhead also nests in smaller numbers in the ong ) . s most endangered marine mammal l ’ ) ean summer holiday season ean summer holiday e shing nets, boat y p ulation, are found in both the Ionian and Aegean Seas. Small the Ionian ulation, are found in both fi l p s of the 72-s p er t p o onnese and in Crete. Greece’s turtles have many hazards to many turtles have onnese and in Crete. Greece’s stream on the Evros River in Thrace, the on the Evros stream p d rit for their diminished numbers rit for their diminished p p roximately 200 to 250roximately monk seals, about 90% of Euro bout 350 ulation which is also home to the very which is also home to rare p , U There that you will s is still the chance The waters around Zakynthos, are home to the last large sea turtle The waters around Zakynthos, A p ecies can pp orted sightings on Tilos. Pervasive habitat encroachment is the main orted sightings on Tilos. Pervasive o airs of royal p which has a which s colonies also live on the island of Alonnisos and there have island of Alonnisos and there have colonies also live on the Pelo reaches 3m, the gri reaches 3m, cul p ta caretta p los Un As Euro chus monachus p wetlands at the mouth of the Evros River wetlands Evros of the the mouth at colony in Euro colony cormorant-like Mediterranean shag. Mediterranean cormorant-like The number of common dol from 150 to 15 in the Turkey, are home to two easily identi home to two are Turkey, cule deck, however a number of the s diminished food su A the Euro Permanent resi Permanent umbrellas. It doesn’t hel dodge – dodge outcro est range of est range of extreme survival. their strength. their strength. hatchlings hatchlings use the nest to the to the nest sea to build up to sea their chances of of their chances the journey from from the journey Helping the baby Helping the baby turtles to the sea the sea to turtles Loggerhead Loggerhead turtle can actually lower actually lower can

766 NATURE & WILDLIFE WATCHING FOR WILDLIFE Survival Guide

DIRECTORY A-Z . . . .768 Visas ...... 775 Accommodation ...... 768 Women Travellers ...... 775 Business Hours ...... 770 Working ...... 775 Customs ...... 770 Discount Cards ...... 770 TRANSPORT ...... 777 Electricity ...... 771 GETTING THERE & AWAY ...... 777 Embassies & Consulates . . 771 Entering the Country. . . . . 777 Gay & Lesbian Travellers ...... 771 Air ...... 777 Health ...... 771 Land ...... 778 Internet Access ...... 772 Sea ...... 779 Legal Matters ...... 772 GETTING AROUND ...... 779 Maps ...... 772 Air ...... 779 Money ...... 772 Bicycle ...... 779 Photography & Boat ...... 780 Video ...... 773 Bus ...... 781 Public Holidays ...... 773 Car & Motorcycle ...... 782 Safe Travel ...... 774 Hitching ...... 785 Smoking ...... 774 Local Transport ...... 785 Telephone ...... 774 Tours ...... 785 Time ...... 774 Train ...... 785 Toilets ...... 774 Tourist Information ...... 774 LANGUAGE ...... 787 Travellers with Disabilities ...... 775 GLOSSARY ...... 792 768 and October. The Panhel- lenic Camping Association (%/fax 210 362 1560; www. panhellenic-camping-union.gr; Solonos 102, Exarhia, Athens) publishes an annual booklet listing all its campgrounds, their facilities and months of operation. If camping in the height of summer, bring a silver fl y sheet to refl ect the heat off your tent (the dark tents that are all the rage in colder countries become sweat lodges). Between May and mid-September the weather is warm enough to sleep Directory out under the stars. Many campgrounds have covered areas where tourists who don’t have tents can sleep A-Z in summer; you can get by with a lightweight sleeping bag. It’s a good idea to have a foam pad to lie on and a » In spring and autumn waterproof cover for your prices can drop by 20%. Accommodation sleeping bag. » Prices can drop even There is a range of accom- Some other points: further in winter. modation available in Greece » Camping fees are highest to suit every taste and » Rip-off s are rare; if you from mid-June through to pocket. All places to stay are suspect that you have been the end of August. exploited make a report to subject to strict price con- » Campgrounds charge €5 to the tourist or the regular po- trols set by the tourist police. €7 per adult and €3 to €4 for lice, and they will act swiftly. By law, a notice must be children aged four to 12. displayed in every room, stat- Camping » There’s no charge for ing the category of the room children under four. and the price charged in each Camping is a good option, » Tent sites cost from €4 per season. It’s diffi cult to gener- especially in summer. There night for small tents, and from alise accommodation prices are almost 350 camp- €5 per night for large tents. in Greece as rates depend grounds in Greece, found in entirely on the season and the majority of regions and » Caravan sites start at location. Don’t expect to pay islands (with the notable around €6; car costs are the same price for a double exception of the Saronic typically €4 to €5. Gulf Islands). Standard fa- on one of the islands as you Domatia would in central Greece or cilities include hot showers, Athens. kitchens, restaurants and Domatia (literally ‘rooms’) Other points to note when minimarkets – and often a are the Greek equivalent of considering hotel prices: swimming pool. the British B&B, minus the Most camping grounds breakfast. Once upon a time, » Prices include a 4.5% com- are open only between April domatia comprised little munity tax and 8% VAT. » A 10% surcharge may be added for stays of less than three nights, but this is not PRICE RANGES mandatory. » A mandatory charge of Throughout this book we have divided accommodation 20% is levied for an ad- into budgets based on the rate for a double room in ditional bed (although this high season (May to August). Unless otherwise stated, often is waived if the bed is all rooms have private bathroom facilities. for a child). » € under €60 (under €80 in Athens) » During July and August accommodation owners will » €€ 60–150 charge the maximum price. » €€€ over €150 DIRECTORY A-Z ACCOMMODATION 769 has details has details E-class hotels have shared shared have hotels E-class

» bathrooms and you may may and you bathrooms hot for extra pay to have comparable are prices water; domatia. with budget Rental Accommodation save to way practical really A and maximise money on a furnished rent is to comfort Many or villa. apartment tour- for purpose-built are – villas in while others ists be owners’ – may particular not are that they homes is The main advantage using. accommodate can that you people number of a larger about each refuge; copies are are copies refuge; about each branches at all EOT available (see ). p 774 Pensions indistinguish- are Pensions are They hotels. from able B or C A, as categorised pension An A-class is class. and in amenities equivalent a B- hotel, B-class a to price to pension is equivalent class and a C-class hotel, a C-class a D- to pension is equivalent hotel. or E-class Mountain Refuges Mountain 55 mountain are There the around dotted refuges and Crete mainland, Greek small from range They Evia. and toilets with outdoor huts very to facilities no cooking lodges. modern comfortable the country’s run by are They and mountaineering various at start Prices skiing clubs. de- person, €7 per around The pending on the facilities. Tourist National (Greek EOT publication Organisation) Refuges Mountain Greece: & Ski Centres not guaranteed; prices are are prices guaranteed; not domatia. with comparable – all ff ort of beds Interna- nd independent reviews, as well as recommen- as well nd independent reviews, fi ess, comf ess, For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet Planet Lonely by reviews accommodation more For . Greece check out hotels.lonelyplanet.com/ authors, You’ll can you all, of Best stay. to places dations on the best book online. BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE STAY YOUR BOOK Hostel rates vary from from vary rates Hostel within the C-class hotels have a have hotels C-class generally hotels D-class A- and B-class hotels hotels and B-class A-

» » » snack bar and rooms with and rooms snack bar but not bathrooms, private hot constant necessarily €35 from range prices water; a single in high €60 for to €80 for and €45 to season a double. and bathrooms shared have solar-heated have may they is water hot meaning water, have full amenities, private private full amenities, have hot constant and bathrooms €50 from range prices water; and from singles €85 for to doubles. €90 and up for Hotels divided are in Greece Hotels deluxe, categories: six into are Hotels D and E. C, B, A, the to according categorised or whether the rooms, of size and the a bar, have they not beds, to bathrooms of ratio of than standards rather cleanlin sta of and friendliness be of that may elements guests. to relevance greater around €10 to €20 for a bed for €20 to €10 around have don’t in a dorm and you in stay a member to be to curfews. have Few them. 210 210 . % Kathimerini (

(for overseas). (for liated liated ffi er – but ff aloniki on the Greek Youth ess exoteriko . There are a are There . Greek current affairs available in the daily English- available affairs current Greek 2 when buying code region is that Greece Be aware Greece uses the metric system for weights and and weights for system the metric uses Greece boxes post yellow the use abroad, post send To

» » » » PRACTICALITIES tional Herald Tribune language edition of of edition language home. back watch to DVDs measures. labelled Domatia remain a popular remain Domatia September June to From 751 9530; www.athens-yhostel. 751 Pangrati, 75, Damareos com; Athens) Hostel Organisation Hostel Hostels in Greece hostels youth Most the by run are more than spare rooms in rooms than spare more home that could the family in travellers out to be rented many summer; nowadays, append- purpose-built are house. the family to ages with complete come Some fully equipped kitchens. are cleanliness of Standards high. generally travellers. budget for option €25 to from pay to Expect and €35 to a single, €50 for depending a double, €65 for are bathrooms on whether the sea- or private, shared plan long you and how son found are Domatia stay. to the mainland throughout and cities) in large (except island that every on almost has a permanent population. open only domatia are Many April and October. between out in are domatia owners customers. for touting force, and boats, buses meet They and room!’ ‘room, shouting photographs carrying often sea- In peak their rooms. of a mistake prove it can son up an o take to not who are owners of be wary of about the location vague their accommodation. hostels in Athens, Olympia, Olympia, Athens, in hostels Th and Patra mainland, and on the islands mainland, Santorini. and Crete of Avail- Gives Gives (ISIC; www.

Card-carrying Card-carrying (Polygnotou 13, Plaka, Plaka, 13, (Polygnotou (www.euro.26)

Cards Entitles the holder Entitles

. (CCI; www.camping (CCI;

EU pensioners can claim can pensioners EU such benefits of a range to admission as reduced museums, and ancient sites on bus and and discounts fares. train able for anyone up to the the up to anyone able for dis- 30; provides of age 20% up to of counts and for shops at sights, Also transport. some travel from available with Athens in agencies and a photo age, of proof and www.isic.org Visit €14. more for www.euro26.org details. cardinternational.com) cardinternational.com) isic.org) Athens) International Student Student International Card Identity Senior Discount Discount Cards Interna- Card Camping tional Euro26 Athens Archaeological Archaeological Athens Service Vehicles be brought can Cars months six for Greece into only a without a carnet; (international card green is insurance) third-party from If arriving required. of proof only Italy your will the country entry into stub, ticket ferry be your other From it. lose don’t so a passport countries, will be ample stamp . 782 p also See evidence. up to 25% savings in camp- 25% savings up to and third-party ing fees while in insurance liability the campground. to half-price admission to to admission half-price to and ancient sites, museums at some and discounts and hostels. hotels budget agen- travel from Available Applicants cies in Athens. proving documents require a passport status, student and €10. photo cate. fi It is strictly forbidden to to forbidden It is strictly ence to remove even even remove to ence ff Customs duty- no longer are There within restrictions free the entering Upon the EU. the outside from country is inspection customs EU, foreign for usually cursory a verbal and tourists is usually all declaration Random that is required. occasion- still are searches Import drugs. ally made for medicines for regulations taking are if you strict; are you sure make medication, your from a statement get leave you before doctor for It is illegal, home. codeine take to instance, without an Greece into doctor’s accompanying certi export antiquities (anything (anything antiquities export without old) years 100 over This permit. an export only to crime is second drug smuggling in the It is an imposed. penalties o article from the smallest site. an archaeological apply for to The place permit is the an export and Private Antique Dealers the of section Collections -

ff ed fi ces) 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-8pm ces) fi 9am-2pm (in Crete: Thu & Fri Tue, 5pm-8.30pm in open again shops Thu & Fri Tue, On Mon-Sat. open until & stay 5.30pm around the afternoon in summer in resorts) or 9pm; all day 8.30pm here. listed those er from Athens News ff ces of- (urban Mon-Fri; 7.30am-2pm areas) (rural

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fi Restaurants 11am-3pm & 7pm-1am Shops 8am-2.30pm & & Sat; Wed Mon, 8am-3pm BUSINESSBanks OPENING HOURS Bars 8am-2pm Fri Mon-Thu, 8am-2.30pm Cafes Clubs 8pm-late Post 10am-midnight o 10pm-4am

STANDARD HOURS STANDARD un- hours business contain in this book do not Reviews di they less If you’re looking for long- for looking you’re If

While opening hours can vary vary can opening hours While depending on the season, the proprie- of or mood day make to it is possible tor, It’s generalisations. some that while the noting worth establishes government major for opening hours research at the time of sites, inconsist- were hours these the major of many ent across with sta issues due to sites Business Hours of the places are in Athens. Athens. in are the places of and islands, areas rural For a good are websites local search. your start to place section of the of section (www.athensnews.gr/ classi try to Always ing and wages. double-check opening hours visiting. before term accommodation, it’s it’s accommodation, term classi checking the worth under one roof, and you can can and you roof, one under self- by money save also is best option This catering. three than more of a stay for owners some fact, In days. on a minimum insist may to site good A stay. week’s is villas prospective spot www.greekislands.com.

BUSINESS HOURS

DIRECTORY A-Z 770 771 DIRECTORY A-Z ELECTRICITY for for (www.

published Gayscape Spartacus Interna- Some areas of Greece are, are, Greece of areas Some The Health Availability & Cost of Care Health Although medical training is in Greece, a high standard of is service public health the Hospitals underfunded. badly hygiene be overcrowded, can what it should always is not expected are be and relatives the pa- for bring in food to be a prob- tient – which can Conditions a tourist. lem for much bet- are and treatment which hospitals, in private ter All this means expensive. are Gay & LesbianGay Travellers the where In a country a prominent plays still church in shaping society’s role such as on issues views as no it comes sexuality, that homosexuality surprise by upon frowned is generally out- especially – locals many While cities. side the major is no legislation against there pays it activity, homosexual be discreet. to popular extremely however, and les- gay for destinations a has Athens bian travellers. gay but most scene, gay busy head travellers and lesbian Mykonos the islands. for its for has long been famous and general beaches bars, while Skiathos hedonism, gay of share has its also Les- The island of hang-outs. of birthplace (Mytilini), vos has Sappho, poet the lesbian a place of something become lesbians. for pilgrimage of tionalGay Guide, by Bruno Gmünder (Berlin), Bruno Gmünder (Berlin), by as the is widely regarded on the authority leading The Greek scene. travel gay of a wealth contains section venues on gay information Alexan- from everywhere Also Xanthi. droupoli to check out gayscape.com/gre.html) information and links. information 210 210

210 210 % ( % 23102 ( 210 687 687 210 210 723 723 210 % 210 723 723 210 ( 23102 42905; 23102 % % % ( ( ( 210 870 4000; 4000; 870 210 % 210 728 5111; 728 210 210 674 8105; 8105; 674 210 Athens Athens ( 210 727 3400; 3400; 727 210 Athens Athens 210 723 7883; 7883; 723 210 % 210 723 2771; 2771; 723 210 % Thessaloniki 210 361 1663; 361 1663; 210 % ( ( ( % % % ( % 210 361 7260; www. 361 7260; 210 ( ( ( (turkbaskon@kom. Athens Athens % ( (http://athens.us Thessaloniki (www.ukingreece.fco.gov. 23102 78006; Tsimiski 43, 43, Tsimiski 78006; 23102 % 6211; Ploutarhou 1, Athens Athens 1, 6211; Ploutarhou 75); GR-106 ambatene.esteri.it; Sekeri 2, 2, Sekeri ambatene.esteri.it; 74) GR-106 Athens 4701; www.nzembassy.com; www.nzembassy.com; 4701; Athens Halandri, Kifisias 268, 152 26) uk/en); uk/en); 721 2951; Leoforos Vasilissis Vasilissis 2951; Leoforos 721 21); GR-115 Athens 91, Sofias www.athen.diplo.de; Dimitriou www.athen.diplo.de; Athens Kolonaki, cnr Karaoli, 3, 75) GR-106 www.greece.gc.ca; Genadiou 4, 4, Genadiou www.greece.gc.ca; 21) GR-115 Athens ( 724 5915; Leoforos Vasileos Vasileos Leoforos 5915; 724 GR-106 Athens 8, Georgiou 74); Agiou Dimitriou 151, 48452; Thessaloniki) www.mfa.bg/en/79; Stratigou Stratigou www.mfa.bg/en/79; Athens Psyhiko, Kalari 33a, 52) GR-154 forthnet.gr); forthnet.gr); Thessaloniki Turkey UK USA Germany Germany Ireland Italy Netherlands New Zealand Australia www.greece.embassy.gov. & Alexandras Leoforos au; cnr Ambelokipi, Kifisias, Leoforos 23) GR-115 Athens Bulgaria Canada Cyprus France Thessaloniki) [email protected]; Irodotou 16, 16, Irodotou [email protected]; 75) GR-106 Athens Tsimiski 43, Thessaloniki) 43, Tsimiski www.ambafrance-gr.org; Leo- www.ambafrance-gr.org; Athens 7, Sofias Vasilissis foros 71) GR-106 9701; www.dutchembassy.gr; www.dutchembassy.gr; 9701; Konstantinou Vasileos Leoforos 74) GR-106 Athens 5-7, www.embassyofireland.gr; www.embassyofireland.gr; Konstantinou Vasileos Leoforos 34) GR-153 Athens 5-7, embassy.gov); 210 687 6200; 6200; 687 210 % ( 220V/50Hz 220V/50Hz [email protected]; Veki- [email protected]; 37) GR-152 Athens 7, areli Albania Albania All foreign embassies in and its Athens in are Greece consu- with a few suburbs, Thessaloniki. in lates Embassies & Consulates E l e c t r i c i t y -ro). 210 210 , with with , go % 210 210 ( ) and/or ) and/or % (

nea series pub- series -lo dhi-ki- 210 771 7616; www. 771 7616; 210 poleos, Votanikos, Votanikos, poleos, % the fi Anavasi Topo (

, whose maps are are maps whose , Road Editions lo dhi-ermi- publishes detailed maps, maps, detailed publishes are although they ce, Hikers should also con- also should Hikers ffi the- emvelia.gr; Navarinou 12, Ath- 12, Navarinou emvelia.gr; ens) produced with the assist- produced Army the Hellenic of ance Motor- Service. Geographical out the should check ists series 1:250,000 company’s Macedonia, Thrace, covering Central and Epiros, Thessaly the Peloponnese Greece, The company and Crete. island a Greek produces also mountain and a Greek series for which is essential series, hiking. serious any sider the lished by including some excellent excellent including some main the region’s plans of with a handy each towns, can All maps booklet. index be bought online or at major in Greece. bookstores durable plasticised paper paper plasticised durable for trails walking and detailed islands. Aegean the of many Money ATMs ATMs are found in every sup- enough to large town all and in almost port a bank Emvelia a lawyer ( a lawyer police insist on an interpreter interpreter on an insist police ( Drugs the are drug laws Greek Greek in Europe. strictest no distinction make courts and possession between even of Possession pushing. marijuana of a small amount in jail. land you to is likely Maps hike to going are you Unless given maps the free or drive, will probably the EOT out by su The best accurate. 100% not are coverage for maps overall com- the Greek published by pany 321 8104; www.mountains.gr; www.mountains.gr; 321 8104; Athens) Arsakiou 6a, Stoa 345 5575; www.road.gr; Kozanis Kozanis www.road.gr; 345 5575; Am cnr 21, Athens) ight fl cation cation fi although . nd many many nd fi fi ess, ess, than you erent ff acc fi ering wi- ering ff Worldwide travel insurance insurance travel Worldwide er wi- er ff hot spots are often located in located often are spots hot than in your rather the lobby also You’ll room. o cafes Greece has long since em- has long since Greece the convenience braced has There the internet. of in the increase been a huge and busi- hotels number of using the internet, nesses eve- are cafes and internet also hotels Many rywhere. o Legal Matters Arrests your have to idea It is a good at all times you with passport by stopped are you in case and questioned. the police presumed are citizens Greek identi have always to are visitors on them; foreign the by to similarly presumed by arrested are If you police. home. Find out in advance if advance Find out in home. plan will make insurance your provid- to directly payments for later you or reimburse ers expenditures. health overseas at www.lonely is available planet.com/travel_services. and extend buy, can You if – even claim online anytime road. on the already you’re Water and is drinkable water Tap but Greece much of in safe in small villages always not the islands. of and on some if the water ask locally Always drink if in doubt, and, is safe Even boiled or bought water. the sub- is safe, when water in and microbacteria stances be di it may cause and can to used are Bot- or diarrhoea. vomiting is widely available. tled water Internet Access arrangement for free medical medical free for arrangement country their between care need do If you and Greece. sure make insurance, health covers that a policy get you possible the worst for you such as an accident scenario, an emergency requiring 166. cient to keep keep to cient % ffi (Aedes albopic- nerv- ect the central ff yscreen on the windows on the windows yscreen fl may be encountered in be encountered may Mosquitoes can be an can Mosquitoes Dangerous snakes include snakes Dangerous Consult a pharmacist for for a pharmacist Consult Pharmacies can dispense dispense can Pharmacies If you need an ambulance an ambulance need If you doctor one is at least There Citizens in the UK. ces ffi

nd out if there is a reciprocal is a reciprocal nd out if there » » » » » » from other countries should countries other from fi If you’re an EU citizen, a Euro- citizen, an EU you’re If Card Insurance Health pean the E111) (EHIC; formerly medi- most for you covers emergency but not care cal home or non- repatriation It is available emergencies. and post centres, health from o Insurance Hazards Environmental Environmental that a good health-insurance health-insurance a good that is essential. policy annoying problem, though problem, annoying con- of is no danger there The electric malaria. tracting repellents mosquito plug-in su usually are the adder and the less com- the adder and the less snakes. mon viper and coral the possibilities minimise To wear always being bitten, of trou- and long socks boots, through when walking sers snakes where undergrowth be present. may minor ailments. medicines that are available available that are medicines in most only on prescription countries. European in Greece call call in Greece island and larger on every hospitals. islands have ous system and cause severe severe and cause ous system death. and complications or sprays protective Use are suspect you if you lotion day. during the being bitten mountainous areas, can be can mountainous areas, biter, daytime a voracious several carry to and is known including Eastern viruses, which equine encephalitis, a can tus) wherever possible. Some Some possible. wherever in northern mosquitoes a severe provoke can Greece Asian tiger The reaction. mosquito the insects at bay at night. at night. at bay the insects that accommodation Choose has

INTERNET ACCESS

DIRECTORY A-Z 772 773 DIRECTORY A-Z PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO

er ff rst. fi

rst Sunday Sunday rst fi 1 January 1 March/April 6 January National public holidays: All banks and shops and shops and banks All (including the sites Many Never photograph a mili- photograph Never is not Flash photography hav- love usually Greeks you sites archaeological At Digital memory cards are widely available, Film is still

» » » » » » » » most museums and ancient museums most on public holidays. close sites o Athens) in ancient sites entry on the free with the the month, of August. July and of exception entry free gain also may You celebrated locally on other although this varies holidays, the country. across Day Year’s New Epiphany in Lent Sunday First February Day Independence Greek 25 March Good Friday Sunday Easter Orthodox 2013, 5 May April 2012, 15 April 2015 12 April 2014, 20 tary installation or anything or anything tary installation that has a sign forbid- else ding photography. inside churches, allowed taboo to considered and it’s main altar. the photograph but taken, ing their photos permission ask always using from will be stopped as a you a tripod as it marks ‘professional’. readily available from camera camera from available readily stores. be expensive although it can in smaller towns. Public Public Holidays of the cheque numbers and numbers cheque the of use when you recording it comes vital when them is – cheques lost replacing to the from this separate keep themselves. cheques Photography & Video Restrictions & Etiquette ess, Visa Visa ess, cient replacement replacement cient er against theft. They They theft. er against ffi ff American Expr The main credit cards are are cards The main credit liated Greek banks in the banks Greek liated Travellers Cheques Travellers carry to The main reason rather cheques travellers is the protection than cash o they popular- losing however, are, travel- and more as more ity in put their money to opt lers at home and withdraw a bank go. as they ATMs it at cheques Thomas Cook and and in euros available are and all widely accepted are e have Maintaining a record policies. Tipping In restaurants a service is normally included charge and while a tip in the bill, (as it is in expected is not it is always America), North and should be appreciated has been if the service left normally drivers Taxi good. up the round to you expect who help while bellhops fare, to luggage your with you or stewards room hotel your to you who take on ferries a normally expect cabin your €1 between of small gratuity and €3. CreditCards an now are cards Credit com- the of part accepted in Greece, scene mercial not often they’re although the of many on accepted or in small vil- smaller islands credit places, In larger lages. at top- be used can cards and restaurants end hotels, hotels C-class Some shops. but cards, credit will accept very hotels D- and E-class do. seldom both Visa, and MasterCard accepted widely which are of be also can They in Greece. draw to cards as cash used af- of ATMs the from cash fi Daily as at home. way same by set are limits withdrawal and are bank the issuing only. currency in local given and Diners Express American in widely accepted Club are of but unheard areas tourist elsewhere. rst fi Automated Automated foreign-ex- Note that Greek shop- that Greek Note Be warned that many that many Be warned put can companies card matic block on an auto your after card your WITHDRAWALS withdrawal abroad as an abroad withdrawal mechanism. antifraud this happen- avoid To of bank your inform ing, plans. travel your keepers and small-business and small-business keepers a perennial have owners any with having problem If buying small small change. tender to it is better items or small-denomination coins notes. Cash con- for cash beats Nothing If you risk. – or for venience good for gone it’s cash, lose insurers travel few and very rescue. your to will come that will normally limit Those approximately amount to the carry to best It’s US$300. need than you cash no more It’s days. few the next for aside set to idea a good also say cash, a small amount of as an emergency US$100, stash. the tourist areas. If you’ve If you’ve areas. the tourist Visa, or MasterCard got to places of plenty are there Cirrus and money. withdraw make can users Maestro in all major withdrawals areas. and tourist towns that many be aware Also can on the islands ATMs a for their connection lose making at a time, or two day (lo- anyone for it impossible withdraw to included) cals a have to useful It’s money. money. of source backup com- are machines change areas. mon in major tourist Euro- all the major take They Australian currencies, pean Japanese and dollars and US in an useful are and yen, they although emergency, commission. a hefty charge (cof- kafeneia Daylight saving ends on saving Daylight The Greek plumbing sys- The Greek Most places in Greece have have in Greece places Most a rarity, are toilets Public

» » » fee houses) and public toilets. houses) fee Tourist information is han- information Tourist National the Greek dled by known Organisation, Tourist abroad the initials GNTO by Organ- (Ellinikos and EOT within Tourismou) ismos service of The quality Greece. Tourist Information the last Sunday in October. Sunday the last Toilets ing range of discount-card discount-card of range ing This involves schemes. and code an access dialling card in your then punching version The OTE number. as is known this card of come The cards ‘Hronokarta’. in Greek with instructions and the talk time and English the to compared is enormous rates. phonecard standard Time time maintains one Greece the country. throughout zone GMT/ of ahead hours It is two ahead hours and three UTC time – on daylight-saving Sun- which begins on the last when clocks in March, day one hour. put forward are tem can’t handle toilet paper; paper; handle toilet can’t tem too are the pipes apparently larger anything and narrow seems stamp than a postage Toilet a problem. cause to should be placed etc paper next in the small bin provided toilet. every to Western-style toilets, espe- toilets, Western-style and restaurants cially hotels You’ll tourists. for that cater across come occasionally in toilets squat Asian-style older houses, and bus airports at except are Cafes stations. and train get if you option the best be but you’ll short, caught buy something to expected the privilege. for

cor- , teh; alk serv- er 2G connectiv- ff (street kiosks) (street not coins. These These coins. not pay-as-you-t It’s also possible to use use to possible also It’s ices by which you can buy a can which you by ices and SIM card rechargeable mobile Greek own your have a mobile of The use number. phone while driving in Greece a of but the use is prohibited, is allowed. headset Bluetooth on using your details For . 16 p see mobile in Greece Phonecards OTE use phones All public as known phonecards, telekarta, at widely available are cards periptera shops. and tourist ner shops around costs call local A minutes. three for €0.30 with the grow- payphones Mobile Phones Mobile There are several mobile in Greece, providers service among which Panafon, the are Wind and CosmOTE three, Of these known. best have to tends CosmOTE in remote coverage the best All o areas. and ity placed on the business own- business on the placed some is home to Greece ers. in smokers the heaviest of a challenge it is so Europe, be enforced to laws these for imposed often are and they in re- way in only a nominal locations. mote Telephone The Greek telephone serv- the is maintained by ice known public corporation o- (pronounced as OTE Organismos Tilepikoinonion Tilepikoinonion Organismos public are There Ellados). about every- just telephones including in some where, spots. isolated unbelievably oper- to easy are The phones local, for be used can and ate and inter- long-distance at the ‘i’ The national calls. the push-button of left top up the brings dialling panel in instructions operating that in Greece Note English. always must code the area be dialled when making a call phone numbers (ie all Greek 10-digit). are

1 May

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At many of the party re- the party of many At 15 August Ohi Day Day Christmas Day St Stephen’s 26 December Sunday Assumption the of Feast Whit Monday (Agiou Pnev- (Agiou Whit Monday matos)

In July 2009 Greece brought brought Greece July 2009 In similar to laws in antismoking most throughout found those Smoking is now Europe. of inside public places, banned being with the penalty Smoking one member of sta one member of Tourist Police in work police The tourist with the regular cooperation tourist Each police. Greek o police speaks English. Hotels, Hotels, English. speaks agencies, travel restaurants, guides, tourist shops, tourist and bus taxi drivers waiters, under the all come drivers po- the tourist of jurisdiction a complaint have If you lice. it report these, of about any and they police the tourist to need to you If will investigate. pass- of or loss a theft report the tourist to then go port, police you between as interpreters police. and the regular Drinks as (known drinks Adulterated bombes budg- large to catering sorts drinks spiked groups, et-tour keep uncommon; not are your of the top hand over your not, than often More glass. foreign are the perpetrators than locals. rather tourists Adulterated & Spiked and Athens in and clubs bars partying. for known resorts with diluted are drinks These that imports illegal cheap for worse feeling you leave day. the next wear Safe Safe Travel May Day (Protomagia) Day May

SAFE TRAVEL

DIRECTORY A-Z 774 775 DIRECTORY A-Z TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES . shing shing fi kamaki favourite pastime: pastime: favourite s the leaving ne upon ’ fi nd them everywhere nd them everywhere fi intend le number if they fi The biggest nuisance to to nuisance biggest The shing’ for foreign women. women. foreign for shing’ fi there are lots of tourists: tourists: of lots are there part), the most (for young who guys smooth-talking bashful in the least aren’t in women about sidling up to be very can They the street. usu- are but they persistent, than a rather ally a hassle Greek of The majority threat. women foreign men treat with respect. Working need a nationals don’t EU need a they but permit, work permit and a Greek residency tax three than longer stay to other Nationals of months. to supposed are countries permit. a work have Bar & Hostel Work islands the Greek of The bars without survive not could are and there workers foreign summer jobs of thousands The year. every grabs up for but you fantastic, is not pay spend a summer in the to get the are April and May islands. Hostels looking. go to times are hotels and travellers that regularly places other workers. foreign employ Greece. If you overstay your your overstay If you Greece. slapped with will be you visa, a huge Women Travellers alone travel women Many The crime rate in Greece. and low relatively remains safer is probably travel solo coun- European than in most mean not This does tries. should be lulled into that you snatching bag complacency; particu- do occur, and rapes on the resorts larly at party islands. travelling women foreign the Greeks alone is the guys nicknamed have country. ‘ means The word the to and refers trident’ kamaki ‘ You’ll

Two- in the (www.

(www.hotel

nancially, so so nancially, fi Aliens Bureau Bureau Aliens ce). These slips slips These ce). ffi y and then re-entering fl 210 770 5711; Leoforos Alex- Leoforos 5711; 770 210 Many travellers get around around get travellers Many A couple of options: of couple A 8am-1pm Mon-Fri) 8am-1pm % day to two-week sailing trips trips sailing two-week to day islands in the Greek around yachts. fully accessible sofgreece.com/central/ loutraki/sirens-wheelchair -accessable-resort/index.html; Corinthia) Loutraki, Skaloma, Family-friendly resort with resort Family-friendly tours apartments, accessible the sea. into and ramps ( h The list of countries whose in Greece stay nationals can months with- three up to for Australia, includes out a visa countries, all EU Canada, New Japan, Israel, Iceland, Switzerland Norway, Zealand, Other countries and the USA. the European included are and Monaco of principalities South Marino and most San The list countries. American Greek – contact changes full list. the for embassies Visa Extensions in Greece stay wish to If you months, than three longer for abroad apply at a consulate in ad- days 20 or at least at the vance Sailing Holidays ResortSirens Visas andras 173, Ambelokipi, Athens; Athens; Ambelokipi, andras 173, charterayachtingreece.com/ DRYachting/index.html) Athens Central Police Sta- Police Central Athens and passport your Take tion. photographs passport four be asked may You along. sup- can that you proof for port yourself keep all your bank exchange exchange bank all your keep from the equivalent (or slips o a post automati- always not are have may – you given cally Elsewhere them. ask for to the local apply to in Greece will likely You authority. police a permit that will be given in the stay to you authorise up to a period of for country six months. by an extension the need for Turkey or visiting Bulgaria brie

ce varies varies ce ffi as in (such ces ffi 020 7250 3222; 7250 020 ces, dispensing ces, ffi functions l the same which gives a good a good which gives % ce to o to ce fi ffi be found can ces Holidays & Travel Travel & Holidays ffi publishes a useful guide a useful publishes Careful planning before planning before Careful The tourist police (p 774 ) 774 (p police tourist The erence. The British-based British-based The erence. ff nd anyone behind the desk. desk. behind the nd anyone nd accommodation. nd called called Abroad: A Guide for Disabled People, available facilities of overview with disabilities travellers to check out Also in Europe. www.greecetravel.com/ local to links for handicapped and tour resorts articles, tourists to catering groups disabilities. with physical www.radar.org.uk; 12 City Fo- www.radar.org.uk; EC1V London 250 City Rd, rum, 8AF) Royal Association for Dis- ability Rehabilitation & (Radar; Access for travellers with travellers for Access has improved disabilities years, in recent somewhat the Ol- to thanks largely are Improvements ympics. Athens, to restricted mostly ac- more are there where and hotels sights, cessible the Much of restaurants. inac- remains Greece of rest and wheelchairs, to cessible stones, of the abundance slippery cobbles marble, creates alleys and stepped People a further challenge. or hearing visual who have rarely also are impairments catered to. of a world make can go you di Travellers with Travellers Disabilities from o from dramatically; in some you’ll you’ll in some dramatically; and in oth- info-a-plenty get to be hard-pressed you’ll ers fi o EOT locations, in major tourist increasingly are though they or even being supplemented municipal- local by replaced o tourist ity as the EOT and municipal and municipal as the EOT o tourist and and brochures, maps on trans- giving information stuck, really If you’re port. help to can police the tourist fi the Peloponnese). ful also

/fax % (

10am-7pm) 22970 28367; 28367; 22970 h % (World Wide Wide Op- (World

Offers opportunities for for opportunities Offers

Includes monitoring pro- monitoring Includes in the Peloponnese. grams Hellenic Wildlife Hospital Wildlife Hellenic Perithalpsis Kentro (Elliniko Zoön; Agrion Protection Turtle Sea Greece of Society WWOOF Volunteers head (par- head Volunteers the winter ticularly during this to Aegina to months) rehabilitation wildlife large informa- more For centre. . 325 p tion see www.ekpaz.gr; www.ekpaz.gr; 210 523 1342; www.archelon.gr; www.archelon.gr; 523 1342; 210 Athens) Exarhia, 57, Solomou volunteers at one of around around at one of volunteers in Greece. 35 farms portunities on Organic Farms; Farms; on Organic portunities www.wwoof.org/independents. asp) (www.

210 522 2888; 522 210 Conserva- Volunteers Volunteers % (

The noticeboard at the The noticeboard many will employ teachers teachers employ will many to time The best one. without a job is such for look around summer. late Athens in Compendium has adver- ) sometimes 120 (p private looking for tisements lessons. English are used for monitoring pro- monitoring for used are on the Ionian Islands. grams Volunteer Work Earth Sea & Sky Hellenic Society for the Study & Protection of the Seal Monk tion and research based in based research tion and the Ionian Islands. earthseasky.org) fax 210 522 2450; Solomou 53, 53, Solomou 522 2450; 210 fax Athens) Exarhia,

edu- Guardian Times or a uni- cate fi Another possibility is to is to possibility Another English nd a job teaching once you are in Greece. You You Greece. in are you once schools language will see Strictly speak- everywhere. to need a licence you ing, but schools, in these teach fi newspaper for opportunities; for newspaper the contact countries, in other embassy. Greek English Tutoring English a per- for looking you’re If widely the most job, manent teach is to option available (Teaching TEFL A English. as a Foreign English certi Language) versity degree is an advantage is an advantage degree versity the UK, In essential. but not the look through cational supplement or Tues- supplement or cational the of edition day’s

WORKING

DIRECTORY A-Z 776 777 777 AIRLINES FLYING TO/FROM GREECE Olympic Air (OA; %801 801 0101; www.olympicair.com) is the country’s national airline with the majority of fl ights to and from Athens. Olympic fl ies direct between Athens and destinations throughout Europe, as well as to Cairo, İstanbul, Tel Aviv, New York and Toronto. Aegean Airlines (A3; %801 112 0000; www. aegeanair.com) has fl ights to/ from destinations in Spain, Germany and Italy as well as to Paris, London, Cairo and İstanbul. The safety record of both airlines is exemplary. The contact details for local Olympic and Aegean offi ces are listed throughout the book. Transport Other airlines with offi ces in Athens: Aeroflot (SU; %210 322 GETTING THERE Airports & Airlines 0986; www.aeroflot.ru/cms/en) Greece has four main inter- & AWAY Air Berlin (AB; %210 353 Flights, tours and rail tick- national airports that take 5264; www.airberlin.com) ets can be booked online chartered and scheduled fl ights. Air Canada (AC; %210 617 at www.lonelyplanet.com/ 5321; www.aircanada.ca) travel_services. Athens (Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport; code ATH; Air France (AF; %210 353 %210 353 0000; www.aia.gr) 0380; www.airfrance.com) Alitalia (AZ; %210 353 4284; Entering the Iraklio (Nikos Kazantzakis International Airport, Crete; www.alitalia.it) Country code HER; %2810 228401; American Airlines (AA; Visitors to Greece with EU www.heraklion-airport.info) %210 331 1045; www.aa.com) passports are rarely given Rhodes (Diagoras Airport, Do- British Airways (BA; %210 more than a cursory glance. decanese; code RHO; %22410 890 6666; www.britishairways. If entering from another EU 83222) com) nation passports are rarely Thessaloniki (Makedonia Cyprus Airways (CY; %210 even checked, but customs Airport, Northern Greece; code 372 2722; www.cyprusair.com.cy) and police may be interested SKG; %2310 473 700, 2310 473 Delta Airlines (DL; %210 in what you are carrying. 212; www.thessalonikiairport.gr) 331 1660; www.delta.com) EU citizens may also enter easyJet (U2; %210 967 Greece on a national identity Many of Greece’s other inter- 0000; www.easyjet.com) card. national airports, including Visitors from outside the EgyptAir (MS; %210 353 Corfu, Crete and Mykonos, 1272; www.egyptair.com.eg) EU may require a visa. This have begun taking scheduled El Al (LY; %210 353 1003; must be checked with con- international fl ights with www.elal.co.il) sular authorities before you easyJet. Kos and Araxos arrive. For visa requirements, also take direct fl ights from Emirates Airlines (EK; see p 775 . Germany. Other international %210 933 3400; www. airports across the country emirates.com) include Santorini (Thira), Gulf Air (GF; %210 322 0851; Air Karpathos, Samos, Skiathos, www.gulfairco.com) Most visitors to Greece arrive Hrysoupoli, Aktion, Kefallonia Iberia (IB; %210 323 4523; by air, which tends to be the and Zakynthos. These air- www.iberia.com) fastest and cheapest option, ports are most often used for Japan Airlines (JL; %210 if not the most environmen- charter fl ights from the UK, 324 8211; www.jal.co.jp) Germany and Scandinavia. tally friendly. KLM (KL; %210 353 1295; www.klm.com) - ff i and i fl ation ected ected ff nancial nancial fi cess ) (p 299 139km (Organismos Sidiro- (Organismos (Organismos Sidiro- (Organismos , the main cause the main cause , 2 operates the major- operates OSE 43km east of of 43km east OSE

) and particles also also ) and particles 2 See See Florina (p 282 ) and When services are operat- are When services uid, so check ahead. check ahead. so uid, dromon Ellados; www Ellados; dromon .ose.gr) northeast of Alexandroupoli. of northeast Kastanies goes via the fas- the via goes Kastanies Sou of towns cinating and in Greece, Didymotiho Adrianoupo- (ancient Edirne Turkey. in lis) problems, with international with international problems, and in 2011 eliminated trains severely routes domestic The situation is curtailed. fl by the country’s the country’s by outlined destinations the ing, Inter- text in the boxed has been seriously a has been seriously Train The Greek railways organisa- tion Kastanies Kipi Bus The Greek railways organisa- tion of all international trains in trains all international of check to be sure so 2011, the relevant See ahead. Away & There Getting city’s on information for sections and points departure/arrival buy tickets. to where text, the boxed also See national Bus Routes, Inter . p 780 alterna- ) for 306 (p Ioannina options public transport tive Albania. to Alexandroupoli in buses international of ity railway the However, Greece. once-plentiful company’s were buses international in limbo with the dromon Ellados; www.ose.gr) www.ose.gr) Ellados; dromon er ‘carbon calculators’ that calculators’ ‘carbon er ff stanbul, stanbul, İ 14km west west 14km 109km north- 109km 17km west of of west 17km 41km from Serres Serres 41km from 28km north of 28km north of 60km northwest of of 60km northwest 31km north of Kilkis 31km north of 68km north of 68km north of a new 448m tunnel a new and author travel. (p 282 ), 16km north of north of 16km ), 282 (p ff border crossing 50km north crossing border of Drama of Kotas on the Florina- Kotas of road Kastoria Konitsa but the route through through but the route Doïrani Evzoni Niki TURKEY if convenient Kipi is more for heading you’re Mertziani Sagiada BULGARIA the EU, of is part Bulgaria As usually quick are crossings and hassle-free. Exohi Ormenio Thrace in northeastern Promahonas YUGOSLAV FORMER MACEDONIA OF REPUBLIC (FYROM) Border Crossings ALBANIA at Kaka- crossing main The slow intensely have via can queues. Kakavia ) 306 p (see Ioannina Krystallopigi Florina Igoumenitsa east of Thessaloniki of east from London to Athens by by Athens to London from than in less and ferry train to choosing By days. two instead the ground on travel re- be also you’ll the air, of footprint. carbon ducing your situation. a win-win It’s Thessaloniki set the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contribu- emitted gases the greenhouse of the impact set ff 210 210 210 210 % 210 210 353 210 (SQ; (SQ;

% % er cheap er ers you you ers % ff ff 210 617 617 210 (TK;

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210 361 3910; 361 3910; 210 (LH; (LH;

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(SK;

CLIMATE CHANGECLIMATE & TRAVEL CO fuel generates on carbon-based that relies transport of form Every sets the carbon footprint of all sta of footprint the carbon sets of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which on aeroplanes, is dependent Modern travel change. climate human-induced of much greater but travel cars than most per person kilometre fuel per less might use (including CO emit gases The altitude at which aircraft distances. o websites Many impact. change their climate to contributes those for and, their journey by generated emissions the carbon estimate people to allow o to do so, who wish to o Planet Lonely the world. throughout initiatives climate-friendly of portfolios tions to 210 372 8000, 210 353 1259; 353 1259; 210 8000, 372 210 1237; www.thaiairways.com) 1237; 5200; www.lufthansa.com) 5200;

the chance to really appreci- really to the chance as well the landscape, ate experiences as the many or along with train that go International bus travel. has in particular, travel, train feasible much more become with speedier years in recent connec- and better trains travel now can You tions. Land land o by Travelling Tickets EasyJet o between tickets cheapest Europe of the rest and Greece of range a huge and covers coming If you’re destinations. consider Europe, outside from a cheap and then an London hub like with easyJet. ticket onward o also airlines Some Virgin Express Virgin Turkish Airlines Thai Airways Thai Singapore Airlines % If you’re students. to deals between travel planning to wise it’s June and September, book ahead. to SAS Qatar Airways Qatar Lufthansa 322 1035; www.turkishairlines 322 1035; .com) 950 8700; www.qatarairways 950 8700; .com) www.singaporeair.com) 949 0777; www.virginxpress 949 0777; .com) www.sas.se)

LAND

TRANSPORT 778 779 TRANSPORT SEA ight ights ights fl fl c do- c ers ers fi ff is 15kg, ights fl but only if ights, fl ights, see the rele- see ights, fl on the nd full details fi an inter- of ight is part fl The baggage allowance allowance The baggage For details on speci details For The prices listed in this listed The prices and buses by ered mestic mestic vant destinations throughout throughout destinations vant informa- more For this guide. tion on using domestic . 34 p see island hopping, for airline’s website, as well as as well website, airline’s on timetables. information on domestic if the domestic or 20kg is part of an international an international of is part Air o Olympic journey. on discount a 25% student domestic the national journey. Bicycle popular among is not Cycling gaining it’s however, Greeks; You’ll with tourists. kudos to leg muscles need strong tackle the mountains or you book are for full-fare econ- full-fare for book are and include domestic omy, are There and charges. taxes tickets return for discounts Monday between travel for bigger and Thursday, and that in- trips for discounts night away. clude a Saturday You’ll ff ights are are ights fl Olympic Olympic er competi- er ff , and its main and its , Aegean Airlines . Both o Both . 801 801 0101; www. 801 801 0101; % (

801 112 0000; www.aegean ces wherever there are are there wherever ces ffi % ights, as well as in other as in other as well ights, tive rates. Olympic Air has Air Olympic rates. tive o fl major towns. competitor competitor ( Air do- of majority vast The mainland mestic GETTING AROUND to place is an easy Greece a to thanks around travel public trans- comprehensive the are Buses port system. land transport, of mainstay that reaches with a network villages. the smallest out to alternative, a good are Trains in a If you’re available. where an ex- has also Greece hurry, air network. domestic tensive though, visitors, most To means in Greece travelling island hopping on the multi- that crisscross ferries tude of Aegean. and the Adriatic the the country’s handled by national carrier, air.com) Air olympicair.com) If you fancy a bit more convenience and speed than those o and speed than those convenience a bit more fancy you If A sample itinerary from London would see you catching the Eurostar to Paris and then Paris to the Eurostar catching you see would London from itinerary sample A only be can passes Eurail (www.eurail.com). network the Eurail of is part Greece Another way to visit to way Another If you’re keen to reach Greece without taking to the air, and enjoy the independence of of independence the and enjoy the air, to taking without Greece reach to keen If you’re hopping on port and an Italian to overland heading by Greece reach can you trip, a road 26 hours. in around completed be can Patra to Venice from ferry high-speed A a ferry. driving. is a further 3½ hours’ Athens to Patra From OVERLAND WESTERN EUROPE FROM route rail fascinating on a Greece reach can enthusiasts Overland done. easily it’s cars, Yugoslav and the Former Serbia Croatia, through passing peninsula, the Balkan through connections are (there Italy of coast the western to head Or Macedonia. of Republic be doing only will you Not Greece. to a ferry then take and Europe) of most throughout as well. window your from scenery gorgeous some see but you’ll the earth, bit for your Bari to you takes train a coastal there, From Bologna in Italy. to sleeper train an overnight a 4½-hour it’s Patra, From on the Peloponnese. Patra to boat overnight an there’s where leaving of days within two Athens in land you will The journey Athens. to journey train and tickets. routes more for www.raileurope.com See London. be- be purchased to supposed and are countries non-European of residents bought by that you’ve proves passport if your be bought in Europe but can in Europe arriving fore system Pass the Inter-Rail of part is also Greece six months. than less for been here or six months for in Europe resided who have those to available (www.interrailnet.com), and prices. passes of full details for the websites See more. Sea crowded very get can Ferries take to want If you in summer. to wise it’s across a vehicle before- a reservation make indicated The services hand. and (July high season for are that note Please August). Turkey to all ferries for tickets in ad- be bought a day must cer- will almost and you vance turn in your to tainly be asked the the night before passport the next be returned to trip, the board you before day departures tax for Port boat. €15. is around Turkey to join one is to sea by Greece that ply cruises the many of For . 40 p See Aegean. the and on fares details more the services for schedules the Getting see here, listed the for section Away & There also See point. departure International text, the boxed ). 782 (p Routes Ferry national Train Routes (p 781 ), ), 781 (p Routes Train national reach. within are

Link- 210 210 210 210 Small, Small, % % ( (

210 413 413 210 22470 22470

% Old-style, Old-style, % ( ( 210 419 9100; 419 9100; 210

210 413 2188; 413 210 Comfortable Comfortable % ( annaexpress-lipsi.

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210 422 5625; www. 5625; 422 210 % Symi-based old- Symi-based ( www. Long-haul high-speed high-speed Long-haul 22410 70590; www.12ne.gr) 70590; 22410 210 418 2005; www.fast 418 2005; 210 % % www.ferries.gr/euroseas) www.ferries.gr/euroseas) 891 9800; www.bluestarferries. 891 com) luxurious catamarans Runs in the Dodecanese. short-haul Comfortable between services ferry on the mainland and Glyfa in northern Agiokambos Evia. and cata- ferries long-haul the mainland from marans services.officelive.com) long-haul ferries serving a serving ferries long-haul islands. number of huge anes.gr) 419 9000; www.hellenic 419 9000; www.hellenic seaways.gr)

ferries.com.gr) Hellenic Seaways Hellenic Dodekanisos Seaways Seaways Dodekanisos ( Euroseas Evoikos Lines Ferries GA ANES ANES Express Anna Ferries Star Blue Ferries Fast Cyclades ( popular the most to ferries Cyclades. style ferries servicing the servicing ferries style Dodecanese. ferries and Sea Jet catama- Jet and Sea ferries the mainland between rans and the Cyclades. 4483; www.ferriesglyfa.gr) 41215; www.gaferries.gr) www.gaferries.gr) fast ferry connecting north- connecting ferry fast ern Dodecanese. ing the Saronics with serv- with ing the Saronics the mainland. to ices

210 210 % 22430 22430 ( Cretan- (www.anek. 210 428 210 % ( www. 210 419 210 % Hydrofoils Hydrofoils ( % (

a a a 15hr 7½hr 7hr 6 weekly 4 daily 2 weekly RIVAL POINT DURATION FREQUENCY Ferries connecting connecting Ferries fi fi fi stanbul 22hr 6 weekly stanbulstanbul 7hr 13hr 6 weekly 6 weekly İ İ İ the of on many ces Kalymnos-based Kalymnos-based ffi A subsidiary of ANEK ANEK of subsidiary A 210 969 0950; 969 210 210 422 1766) 210 Traditional ferries from from ferries Traditional % % aegeanspeedlines.gr) Super- aegeanspeedlines.gr) between speedy boats and the Cyclades. Athens the Cyclades. to Athens 29384) Lines. ferry and old-style hydrofoils Dodeca- the of linking some and the Cyclades. nese the Cyclades and mainland. mainland. and the Cyclades via Corfu. Italy to travels Also linking Samos with Kos and and with Kos linking Samos islands in between. 4001/02; www.alphaferries. 4001/02; gr) 7420; www.anek.gr) www.anek.gr) 7420; ANEK Lines ANEK Aegean Speed Lines Speed Lines Aegean ( Lines Agoudimos Aigaion Pelagos Ferries Alpha Kalymnou ANE ferries. long-haul based Domestic Ferry Operators have often companies Ferry o local des- the relevant islands; see of details for tination chapter local as small, as well these and caïques. ferries Aegean Flying Dolphins ( 414 1300; www.agoudimos 1300; 414 -lines.com) See Island Hopping (p 31 ) for ) for 31 (p Hopping Island See and on planning details more on details For tickets. buying see schedules, and prices destinations the relevant this guide. throughout gr) gr) at- fl at, at, fl Thessaly uctuate regularly. In regularly. uctuate

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Bulgaria Bulgaria Bulgaria Thessaloniki Turkey Alexandroupoli Alexandroupoli So Plovidv Athens So 6hr 2 weekly DESTINATION DEPARTURE Albania POINT AR Albania Bulgaria Athens Thessaloniki Athens Korça (Korytsa) Tirana 6hr So overnight3 daily 1 daily Turkey Thessaloniki Turkey Alexandroupoli

INTERNATIONAL BUS ROUTES BUS INTERNATIONAL Bicycles are carried free on free carried are Bicycles You can hire bicycles in in bicycles hire can You

nding a ready buyer if you if you buyer nding a ready » »

summer, ferries are regular regular are ferries summer, but the most all between destinations out-of-the-way seriously services however in and, in winter down slow completely. stop cases, some Boat has an extensive Greece which are ferries of network reach- of the only means the islands. of ing many subject often are Schedules weather due to delays to action and and industrial prices can stick to some of the of some to stick can lanes Bike routes. coastal ter and nonexistent to rare are compulsory. not are helmets the is about Kos of The island in place bicycle-friendly most anywhere as is Greece, of such as the plains more for 54 p See Thrace. or in Greece. on cycling details ferries. You can buy decent can You ferries. in bikes mountain or touring though major towns, Greece’s a problem have may you fi prices Bike it on. sell wish to as across much the same are anywhere Europe, of the rest €2000. €300 to from most tourist places, but they they but places, tourist most as as widely available not are Prices and motorcycles. cars €12 per €5 to from range the type depending on day, the bike. of and age

BOAT

TRANSPORT 780 781 TRANSPORT BUS nd of ce. fi (cof- ffi erent erent ff back aloniki may kafeneio ess to going people t of fi Most villages have a daily have villages Most When you buy a ticket buy a ticket When you In remote areas, the areas, In remote up at least turn to best It’s It is important to note that note to It is important

ces have timetables in both in both timetables have ces » » » » each seat of the bus, not on not the bus, of seat each in front; the seat of the back have more than one bus sta- than more have di serving each tion, a seat be allotted may you on which is noted number, number The seat the ticket. on the is indicated regions. Make sure you you sure Make regions. your for station the correct In small towns destination. ‘bus station’ the and villages than a bus be no more may a outside stop that or taverna house) fee as a booking o doubles be in Greek may timetable booking of- but most only, fi script. and Roman Greek the de- both give Timetables and times and return parture using the 24-hour listed are clock system. departure before minutes 20 a seat, get you sure make to been known have and buses minutes a few leave to their scheduled before departure. big cities like Athens, Iraklio, Iraklio, Athens, like big cities Th and Patra Practicalities bus service of some sort, sort, some of bus service may areas although remote buses only one or two have the for operate They a week. bene than for rather shop, to town and consequently tourists, in early very the villages leave early the morning and return in the afternoon. 210 210 . % ( 26950 26950 14505. Bus 14505. % ( % a 9hrs 1 daily a 18hr 1 daily xed by the govern- by xed RIVAL POINT DURATION FREQUENCY fi fi fi (Koino Tamio Eisprax- Tamio (Koino

Big boats from the from Big boats stanbul 11½hr 2 daily İ KTEL fares are are fares is very ment and bus travel journey A priced. reasonably €5 per approximately costs 100km. Services on the prefecture Every which mainland has a KTEL, services local operates and within the prefecture other of the main towns to the excep- With prefectures. Thrace, in towns tion of by serviced which are all the major Thessaloniki, on the mainland have towns to connections frequent Corfu, The islands of Athens. Zakynthos and Kefallonia directly be reached also can bus – the by Athens from the of include the price fares ticket. ferry Zante Ferries the connecting Older ferries mainland with the western Cyclades. Bus is compre- bus network The All long-distance hensive. on the mainland and buses, by operated are the islands, known collectives regional as the mainland to Crete, Corfu Corfu Crete, the mainland to and Patra. Ventouris Sea Lines eon Leoforion; www.ktel.org) eon Leoforion; 41 14911; www.ventourissea 41 14911; lines.gr) Details of inter-urban buses buses inter-urban of Details avail- are Greece throughout dialling able by mainland to the Cyclades. mainland to 49500; www.zanteferries.gr) 49500; www.zanteferries.gr)

26102 (www.

% 210 324 324 210 Long- ( Big, slow slow Big, 210 210

% 210 625 210 210 427 4011; 427 210 % ( ( Catamarans Catamarans

22510 26299; 22510 % % As the name As ( 22460 44000; 22460 ( 210 412 1001; 412 1001; 210

% ( High-speed, long- High-speed, %

% ( ( 22220 92164; www. 92164; 22220 % Slow-boat between between Slow-boat ( High-speed catama- FYROM Russia Turkey Thessaloniki Thessaloniki Thessaloniki Skopje Moscow 5hr 70hr 2 daily 1 weekly (summer only) Bulgaria Thessaloniki So DESTINATION DEPARTURE POINT Bulgaria AR Athens So INTERNATIONAL TRAIN ROUTES INTERNATIONAL implies, speedy ferries from from speedy ferries implies, haul ferries. 9997; www.ionianferries.gr) 9997; Skyros and Kymi on Evia. and Kymi Skyros superfast.com) 0000; www.saos.gr) Superfast Ferries Strintzis Ferries in the older ferries Larger, Sporades. Skyros Com- Shipping pany Sea Star Star Sea Sea Jets Jets Sea SAOS LinesSAOS NEL Lines NEL High-speed luxury ferries High-speed luxury ferries and Iraklio, Piraeus between and Igoumenitsa and Patra, Corfu. LANE Lines LANE Lines Minoan Ionian Ferries Ferries Ionian to Cyclades and between and between Cyclades to Saronic and the Sporades islands. www.nel.gr) www.nel.gr) haul ferries with services with services haul ferries Northern Greece between Chios, Lesvos, and Limnos, and the Sporades. Samos Large ferries serving the serving ferries Large Ionian Islands. www.net-club.gr/tilosseastar. htm) 40000; www.strintzisferries.gr) 40000; www.strintzisferries.gr) ran connecting Tilos with Tilos connecting ran Halki and Nisyros. Rhodes, 414 5700; www.minoan.gr) www.minoan.gr) 5700; 414 sne.gr) calling at Athens, Crete, Crete, Athens, at calling and Paros (Thira), Santorini islands in between. many boats calling in at many of of in at many calling boats the islands. www.ferries.gr/lane) www.seajets.gr) www.seajets.gr) EU driving . EU-registered ve- EU-registered Available widely Available licences are valid in Greece. in Greece. valid are licences the EU outside from Drivers Driving International require which should be Permits, leave you before obtained home. Fuel the country, throughout stations though service on week- be closed may ends and public holidays. may there the islands, On station; be only one petrol you before it is check where and Self-service out. head not are pumps credit-card Entry up to for free enter hicles road six months without green A being due. taxes third- (international card is required insurance) party of date of along with proof or your ticket entry (ferry Non-EU- stamp). passport be may vehicles registered passport. in your logged Licence Driving www.elpa.gr in Greek; Leoforos Leoforos Greek; in www.elpa.gr Paraskevi, Agia 395, Mesogion Athens)

1½hr 2 daily

ELPA c laws have have laws c the beaten ffi ff ı 210 606 8800; 210 % adas me 1½hr 1 daily RIVAL POINT DURATION FREQUENCY ş ş e Ċ Heart-stopping Heart-stopping moments (if regular are There Practicalities Association Automobile auto- domestic Greece’s mobile association is kai Aftokinitou (Elliniki Leschi Periigiseon; with overtaking listed as the as the listed overtaking with accidents. of cause greatest tra Ever-stricter on the toll; impact had little a good remain roads Greek defen- your practise to place techniques. sive-driving is a great car own your aside, o explore to way has network road The track. in enormously improved roads many years; recent on dirt tracks as marked been now have older maps in particularly asphalted, Epiros of parts remote more It’s and the Peloponnese. road a good get important to information, more map (for see ). p 772 to services car-ferry costly) more For all islands. almost . 31 p see information,

Turkey Turkey Turkey Kos Turkey Lesvos Rhodes Samos Bodrum Dikeli Marmaris Ku 1hr 50min 1hr 2 daily 1 daily 1 daily DESTINATION DEPARTURE POINT Albania AR Italy Italy Corfu Italy Italy Patra Italy Patra Italy Corfu Saranda Italy Kefallonia Italy Corfu Ancona Italy Igoumenitsa Bari Italy 25min Patra Bari Bari Italy Corfu Bari Italy 20hr Kefallonia Bari Turkey Zakynthos 1 daily 14½hr Patra Brindisi 14hr 8hr Corfu Brindisi Brindisi Chios 3 daily Brindisi 11½hr 10hr 1 daily 15hr Venice 1 daily 1 daily 12hr 6hr Venice 1 daily 15hr 1 daily 1 daily 30hr 1 daily 1 daily 25hr 1 daily 12 weekly 12 weekly

INTERNATIONAL FERRY ROUTES FERRY INTERNATIONAL Smoking is prohibited on Smoking is prohibited The KTEL buses are safe safe are buses KTEL The You can board a bus with- a bus board can You

» » »

No one who has travelled has travelled who No one will be roads on Greece’s that the hear to surprised rate fatality road country’s in Europe. is the highest people die than 2000 More year, every on the roads Car & Motorcycle this causes confusion among among confusion causes this alike. tourists and Greeks all buses in Greece. all buses and modern, and these days days these and and modern, – at air conditioned are most on the major routes. least areas rural In more-remote older and less be to tend they on less- Buses comfortable. do not routes frequented on board toilets usually have three about every and stop long journeys. on hours out a ticket and pay on board board on and pay out a ticket or route on a popular but, this during high season, to have that you mean may stand.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

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You can often often can You For current rates of some some of rates current For Patra www.budget.gr) Avis Budget much cheaper prebooked prebooked much cheaper rates. and prepaid costs include a theft waiver waiver include a theft costs and €6 per day at least of insurance. accident personal o The major companies companies. at local deals be can rates Their advertised than the 50% cheaper up to are multinationals and they negotia- normally open to is if business especially tion, can you the islands, On slow. the day for a car rent €50, €30 to around for and including all insurance taxes. players the major car-hire of the following see in Greece, websites: avis.gr) 81

119 419 610 417 208 201 Nafplio

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324 115 115 151 303 385 505 193 307 284 Kavala €295 of rst

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fi 274 466 358 Kastoria

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96

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» » » Hire cars are available just just available are cars Hire particu- about everywhere, where larly in major cities o often competition bar- to opportunities good All the big multinational gain. represented are companies have and most Athens, in and in major towns branches destinations. popular tourist islands have of The majority Greek By one outlet. at least be re- to have cars rental law, and so six years every placed Hire CAR the norm in Greece. Petrol Petrol the norm in Greece. than in is cheaper in Greece countries, European many American by but expensive standards. or Australian types: Petrol ROAD DISTANCES (KM) DISTANCES ROAD ne of of ne fi ne of of ne fi re extinguisher extinguisher re with them. tted fi fi ence. ff has c on a main road ffi A blood-alcohol content content blood-alcohol A Helmets are compul- are Helmets areas residential Outside Outside built-up areas, areas, built-up Outside in be worn must belts Seat under 12 years Children a carry to It is compulsory Roads passing through through passing Roads as throughout In Greece,

rst-aid kit, kit, rst-aid » » » » » » » » » subsidence or weather- or subsidence be a can ice and Snow ing. in winter, challenge serious to advised are and drivers Animals chains. snow carry wander may areas in rural vigilance extra so roads, onto is required. Road Rules of 0.05% can incur a can 0.05% of is a 0.08% over and €150, criminal o sory for motorcyclists if the motorcyclists for sory or more. is 50cc motorcycle if you’re will book you Police a helmet. without caught the speed limit is 120km/h 90km/h on on highways, and 50km/h in roads other The speed areas. built-up up motorcycles limit for and is 70km/h 100cc to motorcycles, larger for exceeding Drivers 90km/h. are 20% the speed limit by a receive liable to 40% it by €60; exceeding €150. costs tra at intersections. way right of coming vehicles In towns, of right have the right from rounda- This includes way. in the if you’re – even bouts give must you roundabout, onto coming drivers to way right. your to the roundabout seats and in back seats, front is if the car in the allowed not are age of seat. front fi mountainous areas are often often are areas mountainous that rocks fallen with littered damage extensive cause can or underside a vehicle’s to rider. a bike throw drive you Europe, Continental on on the right and overtake the left. and it triangle, and warning of cans carry to is forbidden petrol. le tyres. If you If you le tyres. ne print! ne fi fi sailing. er smooth ff the of er one as part ff c events on Greece’s on Greece’s c events ffi Slow drivers – many of of – many drivers Slow change can surfaces Road Main highways in Greece in Greece highways Main retain main roads Some years take can Roadwork

» » » » » them unsure and hesitant and hesitant them unsure serious cause – can tourists tra roads. of when a section rapidly to has succumbed road have been improving steadily steadily been improving have still but many the years over o don’t shoulder the two-lane/hard the 1960s which of format if not be confusing, can dangerous. downright espe- in Greece, and years cially on the islands where trickles only funding often excellent cases, In other in. have may tarmac roads new on not that are appeared maps. local any Road Hazards Road Conditions RatesInsurance & are or scooters Motorcycles around. travel to way a cheap €15 about from start Rates or 50cc a moped for per day €30 per day to motorcycle, motorcycle. a 250cc for prices these season of Out use so considerably, drop Most skills. bargaining your include hirers motorcycle in the insurance third-party check to wise it’s but price, will not This insurance this. expenses. include medical and compulsory are Helmets obliged are agencies rental to o deal. hire ess, ess, most (in Nonethel er this cover, so check the so er this cover, ff 210 960 2382; 960 2382; 210 % ride the to ciency ( fi

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CAR & MOTORCYCLE

TRANSPORT 784 TRANSPORT HITCHING 785

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. With With o . Yellow city cabs are me- are cabs city Yellow in taxi drivers Some nancial ride. If you have a have If you nancial ride. tour of the Greek Islands the Greek of tour (£1575/US$2475/€1615) from tour and an eight-day (£870/ Santorini to Athens including US$1370/€1045), tralia, the UK and the USA, and the USA, the UK tralia, o Intrepid Tours considering worth are Tours or limited very time is if your else somebody fancy if you In the organising. doing all of you’ll Athens, with some ), 95 (p tours day o agencies nearby to trips three-day on a something For sights. try scale, larger rant the building of an un- an of building the rant more For system. derground that Note . 125 p see details, are cards student only Greek on ticket a student for valid the metro. Taxi in widely available are Taxis small on very except Greece are They islands. or remote Euro- by priced reasonably especially standards, pean people share or four if three now taxi drivers Many costs. in their systems sat-nav have socars, as you as long is a breeze the have com) Travel tered, with rates doubling with rates tered, midnight and 5am. between charged are costs Additional an airport or from trips for station, port or train a bus, of piece each as for as well rural Grey 10kg. over luggage so meters, have taxis do not a on settle should always you in. get you before price to been known have Athens a for travellers unwary take fi about a taxi driver, complaint number and the cab take the to complaint your report infor- more For police. tourist drivers Taxi . 120 p mation see are, in Greece towns in other helpful friendly, on the whole, and honest. with a hitching ff Some parts of Greece are are Greece of parts Some is much Hitching cult. If you are involved in an ac- in an involved are If you ffi

» easier in remote areas and areas in remote easier on islands with poor public roads country On transport. some- for unknown it is not and ask if you stop one to haven’t if you even a lift, want a thumb out. stuck male companion. than hitching for much better major out of Getting others. work be hard to tends cities is notoriously Athens and di Metro in is the only city Athens war- enough to large Greece Most Greek towns are small are towns Greek Most on foot. around get enough to lo- have All the major towns but the only places buses, cal are need them to likely you’re and Kalamata Patra, Athens, The procedure Thessaloniki. local for buying tickets for in the Getting is covered buses city. each of section Around Local Transport Bus Hitching is never entirely safe safe entirely is never Hitching in the world, country in any recommend don’t and we who decide to Travellers it. that should understand hitch taking a small but are they risk. serious potentially to who do choose People if they will be safer hitch let and should in pairs travel they where know someone In particu- go. planning to are to females for it is unwise lar, are alone; women hitch o better Hitching cident and no one is hurt, the is hurt, and no one cident to be required not will police but it is advis- a report, write police a nearby to go able to what explain and station report police A happened. insur- for be required may If an accident purposes. ance who a driver injury, involves not and does stop not does a face may the police inform sentence. prison On presentation of ID of presentation On have, you pass Whatever

» » generally not worth buying buying worth not generally only is the one if Greece plan to you where place for 779 p See them. use IC and For details. more still you sleeper cars, supplement. a costly require or passports, passengers passengers or passports, are 60 years-old over a 25% discount entitled to July, in except on all lines the Easter and over August week. a reservation have must you the train. board to choice a ers ff Eurail and Inter-Rail cards cards and Inter-Rail Eurail

» are valid in Greece, but it’s it’s but in Greece, valid are Train Passes services are not necessarily necessarily not are services too far is Greece – express that – but for mountainous and modern are the trains There are comfortable. tickets and 2nd-class 1st- On on board. and a cafe-bar can meals services, some to and delivered be ordered The night service seat. your Athens and Thes- between o also saloniki two-bed couchettes, of and single compartments compartments. most that link The IC trains that link the The IC trains Classes serv- of types two are There trains (slow) regular ice: and at all stations that stop modern intercity faster, (IC) trains crossed, this will also be the be the also will this crossed, future. near in the case major cities. The slow trains trains slow The major cities. the country’s represent public of form cheapest fares 2nd-class transport: and cheap, absurdly are is cheaper class 1st even than bus travel. an are cities major Greek The travel. to way excellent

TRAIN

TRANSPORT 786 WANT MORE? For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s Greek Phrasebook. You’ll fi nd it at shop .lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

Languagelanguage

The Greek language is believed to be one of Please. Παρακαλώ. pa·ra·ka·lo the oldest European languages, with an oral Thank you. Ευχαριστώ. ef·ha·ri·sto tradition of 4000 years and a written tradi- tion of approximately 3000 years. Due to That’s fi ne./ Παρακαλώ. pa·ra·ka·lo its centuries of infl uence, Greek constitutes You’re welcome. the origin of a large part of the vocabulary of many Indo-European languages (includ- Sorry. Συγγνώμη. sigh·no·mi ing English), and many of the terms used in science. What’s your name? Greek is the offi cial language of Greece Πώς σας λένε; pos sas le·ne and co-offi cial language of Cyprus (along- side Turkish), and is spoken by many Greek My name is … migrant communities throughout the world. Με λένε … me le·ne … The Greek alphabet is explained on the next Do you speak English? page, but if you read the blue pronunciation guides given with each phrase in this chapter Μιλάτε αγγλικά; mi·la·te an·gli·ka as if they were English, you’ll be understood. I (don’t) understand. Note that dh is pronounced as ‘th’ in ‘there’; (Δεν) καταλαβαίνω. (dhen) ka·ta·la·ve·no gh is a softer, slightly throaty version of ‘g’; and kh is a throaty sound like the ‘ch’ in the Scottish ‘loch’. All Greek words of two or more ACCOMMODATION syllables have an acute accent (´), which indi- campsite χώρος για kho·ros yia cates where the stress falls. In our pronuncia- κάμπινγκ kam·ping tion guides, stressed syllables are in italics. In Greek, all nouns, articles and adjectives hotel ξενοδοχείο kse·no·dho·khi·o are either masculine, feminine or neuter – in youth hostel γιουθ χόστελ yuth kho·stel this chapter these forms are included where necessary, separated with a slash and indi- cated with ‘m/f/n’. a … room ένα … e·na … δωμάτιο dho·ma·ti·o BASICS single μονόκλινο mo·no·kli·no Hello. Γειά σας. ya·sas (polite) double δίκλινο dhi·kli·no Γειά σου. ya·su (informal) Good morning. Καλή μέρα. ka·li me·ra How much Πόσο κάνει …; po·so ka·ni … Good evening. Καλή σπέρα. ka·li spe·ra is it …? Goodbye. Αντίο. an·di·o per night τη βραδυά ti vra·dhya Yes./No. Ναι./Οχι. ne/o·hi per person το άτομο to a·to·mo 788 GREEK ALPHABET

The Greek alphabet has 24 letters, shown below in their upper- and lower-case

LANGUAGE forms. Be aware that some letters look like English letters but are pronounced very diff erently, such as Β, which is pronounced ‘v’; and Ρ, pronounced like an ‘r’. As in English, how letters are pronounced is also infl uenced by how they are combined, for example the ου combination is pronounced ‘u’ as in ‘put’, and οι is pronounced ‘ee’ as in ‘feet’.

DIRECTIONS Α α a as in ‘father’ Ξ ξ x as in ‘ox’ Β β v as in ‘vine’ Ο ο o as in ‘hot’ Γ γ gh a softer, throaty ‘g’ Π π p as in ‘pup’ y as in ‘yes’ Ρ ρ r as in ‘road’, Δ δ dh as in ‘there’ slightly trilled Ε ε e as in ‘egg’ Σ σ, ς s as in ‘sand’ Ζ ζ z as in ‘zoo’ Τ τ t as in ‘tap’ Η η i as in ‘feet’ Υ υ i as in ‘feet’ Θ θ th as in ‘throw’ Φ φ f as in ‘fi nd’ Ι ι i as in ‘feet’ Χ χ kh as the ‘ch’ in the Κ κ k as in ‘kite’ Scottish ‘loch’, or Λ λ l as in ‘leg’ h like a rough ‘h’ Μ μ m as in ‘man’ Ψ ψ ps as in ‘lapse’ Ν ν n as in ‘net’ Ω ω o as in ‘hot’

Note that the letter Σ has two forms for the lower case – σ and ς. The second one is used at the end of words. The Greek question mark is represented with the English equivalent of a semicolon (;).

air-con έρκοντίσιον er·kon·di·si·on behind πίσω pi·so bathroom μπάνιο ba·nio in front of μπροστά bro·sta fan ανεμιστήρας a·ne·mi·sti·ras far μακριά ma·kri·a TV τηλεόραση ti·le·o·ra·si near (to) κοντά kon·da window παράθυρο pa·ra·thi·ro next to δίπλα dhi·pla opposite απέναντι a·pe·nan·di DIRECTIONS straight ahead oλο ευθεία. o·lo ef·thi·a Where is …? Πού είναι …; pu i·ne … EATING & DRINKING What’s the address? a table for … Eνα τραπέζι e·na tra·pe·zi Ποια είναι η διεύθυνση; pia i·ne i dhi·ef·thin·si για … ya … Can you show me (on the map)? (two) people (δύο) (dhi·o) Μπορείς να μου δείξεις bo·ris na mu dhik·sis άτομα a·to·ma (στο χάρτη); (sto khar·ti) (eight) o’clock τις stis Turn left. (οχτώ) (okh·to) Στρίψτε αριστερά. strips·te a·ri·ste·ra Turn right. I don’t eat … Δεν τρώγω … dhen tro·gho … Στρίψτε δεξιά. strips·te dhe·ksia fi sh ψάρι psa·ri (red) meat (κόκκινο) (ko·ki·no) at the next corner κρέας kre·as στην επόμενη γωνία stin e·po·me·ni gho·ni·a at the traffi c lights peanuts φυστίκια fi ·sti·kia στα φώτα sta fo·ta poultry πουλερικά pu·le·ri·ka What would you recommend? Τι θα συνιστούσες; ti tha si·ni·stu·ses KEY PATTERNS 789 What’s in that dish? To get by in Greek, mix and match Τι περιέχει αυτό το ti pe·ri·e·hi af·to to these simple patterns with words of LANGUAGE φαγητό; fa·ghi·to your choice: That was delicious. When’s (the next bus)? Ήταν νοστιμότατο! i·tan no·sti·mo·ta·to Πότε είναι po·te i·ne (το επόμενο (to e·po·me·no Cheers! λεωφορείο); le·o·fo·ri·o) Εις υγείαν! is i·yi·an Where’s (the station)? EATING & DRINKING Please bring the bill. Πού είναι (o σταθμός); pu i·ne (o stath·mos) Το λογαριασμό, to lo·ghar·ya·zmo I’m looking for (Ampfi lohos). παρακαλώ. pa·ra·ka·lo Ψάχνω για psakh·no yia (το Αμφίλοχος). (to am·fi·lo·khos) Do you have (a local map)? Key Words Έχετε οδικό e·he·te o·dhi·ko appetisers oρεκτικά o·rek·ti·ka (τοπικό χάρτη); (to·pi·ko khar·ti) bar μπαρ bar Is there a (lift)? Υπάρχει (ασανσέρ); i·par·hi (a·san·ser) beef βοδινό vo·dhi·no Can I (try it on)? bottle μπουκάλι bu·ka·li Μπορώ να bo·ro na bowl μπωλ bol (το προβάρω); (to pro·va·ro) bread ψωμί pso·mi I have (a reservation). breakfast πρόγευμα pro·yev·ma Έχω (κλείσει e·kho (kli·si δωμάτιο). dho·ma·ti·o) cafe καφετέρια ka·fe·te·ri·a I’d like (to hire a car). cheese τυρί ti·ri Θα ήθελα (να tha i·the·la (na chicken κοτόπουλο ko·to·pu·lo ενοικιάσω ένα e·ni·ki·a·so e·na cold κρυωμένος kri·o·me·nos αυτοκίνητο). af·to·ki·ni·to) cream κρέμα kre·ma pepper πιπέρι pi·pe·ri delicatessen ντελικατέσεν de·li·ka·te·sen plate πιάτο pia·to desserts επιδόρπια e·pi·dhor·pi·a pork χοιρινό hi·ri·no dinner δείπνο dhip·no restaurant εστιατόριο e·sti·a·to·ri·o egg αβγό av·gho salt αλάτι a·la·ti fi sh ψάρι psa·ri spoon κουτάλι ku·ta·li food φαγητό fa·yi·to sugar ζάχαρη za·kha·ri fork πιρούνι pi·ru·ni vegetable λαχανικά la·kha·ni·ka fruit φρούτα fru·ta vegetarian χορτοφάγος khor·to·fa·ghos glass ποτήρι po·ti·ri vinegar ξύδι ksi·dhi grocery store οπωροπωλείο o·po·ro·po·li·o with/without με/χωρίς me/kho·ris herb βότανο vo·ta·no high chair καρέκλα ka·re·kla για μωρά yia mo·ro Drinks hot ζεστός ze·stos beer μπύρα bi·ra knife μαχαίρι ma·he·ri coff ee καφές ka·fes lamb αρνί ar·ni juice χυμός hi·mos lunch μεσημεριανό me·si·me·ria·no φαγητό fa·yi·to milk γάλα gha·la main courses kύρια φαγητά ki·ri·a fa·yi·ta soft drink αναψυκτικό a·nap·sik·ti·ko market αγορά a·gho·ra tea τσάι tsa·i menu μενού me·nu water νερό ne·ro nut καρύδι ka·ri·dhi (red) wine (κόκκινο) κρασί (ko·ki·no) kra·si (white) wine (άσπρο) κρασί (a·spro) kra·si oil λάδι la·dhi 60 εξήντα ek·sin·da 790 Question Words 70 εβδομήντα ev·dho·min·da How? Πώς; pos 80 ογδόντα ogh·dhon·da What? Τι; ti LANGUAGE 90 ενενήντα e·ne·nin·da When? Πότε; po·te 100 εκατό e·ka·to Where? Πού; pu 1000 χίλιοι/χίλιες hi·li·i/hi·li·ez (m/f) Who? Ποιος; pi·os (m) χίλια hi·li·a (n) Ποια; pi·a (f)

EMERGENCIES Ποιο; pi·o (n) SHOPPING & SERVICES Why? Γιατί; yi·a·ti I’d like to buy … Θέλω ν’ αγοράσω … the·lo na·gho·ra·so … EMERGENCIES I’m just looking. Απλώς κοιτάζω. ap·los ki·ta·zo Help! Βοήθεια! vo·i·thya May I see it? Go away! Φύγε! fi·ye Μπορώ να το δω; bo·ro na to dho I'm lost Έχω χαθεί. e·kho kha·thi I don’t like it. There’s been Εγινε ey·i·ne Δεν μου αρέσει. dhen mu a·re·si an accident. ατύχημα. a·ti·hi·ma How much is it? Πόσο κάνει; po·so ka·ni Call …! Φωνάξτε …! fo·nak·ste … It’s too expensive. a doctor ένα γιατρό e·na yi·a·tro Είναι πολύ ακριβό. i·ne po·li a·kri·vo the police την tin Can you lower the price? αστυνομία a·sti·no·mi·a Μπορείς να κατεβάσεις bo·ris na ka·te·va·sis την τιμή; tin ti·mi

I’m ill. Είμαι άρρωστος. i·me a·ro·stos ATM αυτόματη af·to·ma·ti μηχανή mi·kha·ni It hurts here. χρημάτων khri·ma·ton Πονάει εδώ. po·na·i e·dho bank τράπεζα tra·pe·za I’m allergic to (antibiotics). credit card πιστωτική pi·sto·ti·ki Είμαι αλλεργικός/ i·me a·ler·yi·kos/ κάρτα kar·ta αλλεργική a·ler·yi·ki internet cafe καφενείο ka·fe·ni·o (στα αντιβιωτικά) (sta an·di·vi·o·ti·ka) (m/f) διαδικτύου dhi·a·dhik·ti·u mobile phone κινητό ki·ni·to NUMBERS post offi ce ταχυδρομείο ta·hi·dhro·mi·o 1 ένας/μία e·nas/ mi·a (m/f) toilet τουαλέτα tu·a·le·ta ένα e·na (n) tourist offi ce τουριστικό tu·ri·sti·ko 2 δύο dhi·o γραφείο ghra·fi·o 3 τρεις tris (m&f) τρία tri·a (n) TIME & DATES 4 τέσσερεις te·se·ris (m&f) What time is it? Τι ώρα είναι; ti o·ra i·ne τέσσερα te·se·ra (n) It’s (2 o’clock). είναι i·ne 5 πέντε pen·de (δύο η ώρα). (dhi·o i o·ra) 6 έξη e·xi It's half (Δέκα) και (dhe·ka) ke past (10). μισή. mi·si 7 επτά ep·ta 8 οχτώ oh·to today σήμερα si·me·ra 9 εννέα e·ne·a tomorrow αύριο av·ri·o 10 δέκα dhe·ka yesterday χθες hthes 20 είκοσι ik·o·si morning πρωί pro·i 30 τριάντα tri·an·da (this) (αυτό το) (af·to to) 40 σαράντα sa·ran·da afternoon απόγευμα a·po·yev·ma 50 πενήντα pe·nin·da evening βράδυ vra·dhi Monday Δευτέρα dhef·te·ra 791 Tuesday Τρίτη tri·ti Signs ΕΙΣΟΔΟΣ Entry Wednesday Τετάρτη te·tar·ti ΕΞΟΔΟΣ Exit Thursday Πέμπτη pemp·ti LANGUAGE ΠΛΗΡΟΦΟΡΙΕΣ Information Friday Παρασκευή pa·ras·ke·vi ΑΝΟΙΧΤΟ Open Saturday Σάββατο sa·va·to ΚΛΕΙΣΤΟ Closed Sunday Κυριακή ky·ri·a·ki ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΑΙ Prohibited

ΑΣΤΥΝΟΜΙΑ Police TRANSPORT January Ιανουάριος ia·nu·ar·i·os ΑΣΤΥΝΟΜΙΚΟΣ ΣΤΑΘΜΟΣ Police Station February Φεβρουάριος fev·ru·ar·i·os ΓΥΝΑΙΚΩΝ Toilets (women) March Μάρτιος mar·ti·os ΑΝΔΡΩΝ Toilets (men) April Απρίλιοςq a·pri·li·os May Μάιος mai·os cancelled ακυρώθηκε a·ki·ro·thi·ke June Ιούνιος i·u·ni·os delayed καθυστέρησε ka·thi·ste·ri·se July Ιούλιος i·u·li·os platform πλατφόρμα plat·for·ma August Αύγουστος av·ghus·tos ticket offi ce εκδοτήριο ek·dho·ti·ri·o September Σεπτέμβριος sep·tem·vri·os εισιτηρίων i·si·ti·ri·on October Οκτώβριος ok·to·vri·os timetable δρομολόγιο dhro·mo·lo·gio November Νοέμβριος no·em·vri·os train station σταθμός stath·mos December Δεκέμβριος dhe·kem·vri·os τρένου tre·nu

TRANSPORT Driving & Cycling I’d like to hire Θα ήθελα να tha i·the·la na Public Transport a … νοικιάσω … ni·ki·a·so … boat πλοίο pli·o car ένα e·na (city) bus αστικό a·sti·ko αυτοκίνητο af·ti·ki·ni·to (intercity) bus λεωφορείο le·o·fo·ri·o 4WD ένα τέσσερα e·na tes·se·ra επί τέσσερα e·pi tes·se·ra plane αεροπλάνο ae·ro·pla·no jeep ένα τζιπ e·na tzip train τραίνο tre·no motorbike μια mya μοτοσυκλέττα mo·to·si·klet·ta Where do I buy a ticket? Πού αγοράζω εισιτήριο; pu a·gho·ra·zo i·si·ti·ri·o bicycle ένα e·na ποδήλατο po·dhi·la·to I want to go to … Θέλω να πάω στο/στη … the·lo na pao sto/sti … What time does it leave? Do I need a helmet? Τι ώρα φεύγει; ti o·ra fev·yi Χρειάζομαι κράνος; khri·a·zo·me kra·nos Does it stop at (Iraklio)? Is this the road to …? Σταματάει στο (Ηράκλειο); sta·ma·ta·i sto (i·ra·kli·o) Αυτός είναι ο af·tos i·ne o δρόμος για … dhro·mos ya … I’d like to get off (at Iraklio). Θα ήθελα να κατεβώ tha i·the·la na ka·te·vo Can I park here? (στο Ηράκλειο). (sto i·ra·kli·o) Μπορώ να παρκάρω bo·ro na par·ka·ro εδώ; e·dho I’d like Θα ήθελα tha i·the·la The car/motorbike has broken down (at …). (a) … (ένα) … (e·na) … Το αυτοκίνητο/ to af·to·ki·ni·to/ η μοτοσυκλέττα i mo·to·si·klet·ta one-way ticket απλό εισιτήριο a·plo i·si·ti·ri·o χάλασε (στο …). kha·la·se (sto …) return ticket εισιτήριο με i·si·ti·ri·o me I have a fl at tyre. επιστροφή e·pi·stro·fi Επαθα λάστιχο. e·pa·tha la·sti·cho 1st class πρώτη θέση pro·ti the·si I’ve run out of petrol. 2nd class δεύτερη θέση def·te·ri the·si Εμεινα από βενζίνη. e·mi·na a·po ven·zi·ni 792 GLOSSARY

For culinary terms, see Roman Empire in AD 324; the Mycenaean civilisation;

LANGUAGE Eat Like a Local (p46) and when the Roman Empire heralded Greece’s dark Greek Cuisine (p750). was formally divided in AD age, when the artistic and Achaean civilisation – see 395, Rome went into decline cultural advancements of Mycenaean civilisation and the eastern capital, the Mycenaean and Minoan acropolis – citadel, highest renamed Constantinople civilisations were abandoned; point of an ancient city after Emperor Constantine the Dorians later developed I, flourished; the Byzantine into land-holding aristo- GLOSSARY agia (f), agios (m), agii Empire (324 BC–AD 1453) crats, encouraging the (pl) – saint(s) dissolved after the fall of resurgence of independent agora – commercial area Constantinople to the Turks city-states led by wealthy of an ancient city; shopping in 1453 aristocrats precinct in modern Greece Doric – order of Greek amphora – large two-han- caïque – small, sturdy fish- architecture characterised dled vase in which wine or ing boat often used to carry by a column that has no oil was kept passengers base, a fluted shaft and a Archaic period – also known capital – top of a column relatively plain capital, when as the Middle Age (800-480 compared with the flour- Classical period – era in BC); period in which the ishes evident on Ionic and which the Greek city-states city-states emerged from Corinthian capitals the dark age and traded their reached the height of their way to wealth and power; the wealth and power after the Ellada or Ellas – see city-states were unified by a defeat of the Persians in the Hellas Greek alphabet and common 5th century BC; the Clas- cultural pursuits, engen- sical period (480–323 BC) ELPA – Elliniki Leschi dering a sense of national ended with the decline of Aftokinitou kai Periigiseon; identity the city-states as a result Greek motoring and tour- of the Peloponnesian Wars, ing club arhon – leading citizen and the expansionist aspi- of a town, often a wealthy ELTA – Ellinika Tahydromia; rations of Philip II, King of bourgeois merchant; chief Greek post office organisa- Macedon (r 359–336 BC) magistrate tion and his son, Alexander the EOS – Ellinikos Orivatikos arhontika – 17th- and 18th- Great (r 336–323 BC) century AD mansions, which Syllogos; the association Corinthian – order of Greek belonged to arhons of Greek Mountaineering architecture recognisable Clubs askitiria – mini-chapels by columns with bell-shaped EOT – Ellinikos Organismos or hermitages; places of capitals with sculpted solitary worship Tourismou; main tourist elaborate ornaments based office (has offices in most asklepion – ancient medical on acanthus leaves; see also major towns), known abroad complex Doric and Ionic as GNTO (Greek National Cycladic civilisation – the Tourist Organisation) baglamas – small stringed civilisation (3000–1100 BC) estiatorio – restaurant instrument like a mini that emerged following the serving ready-made food as bouzouki settlement of Phoenician well as à la carte basilica – early Christian colonists on the Cycladic church islands Filiki Eteria – Friendly cyclops (s), cyclopes (pl) bouzouki – long-necked, Society; a group of Greeks – mythical one-eyed giants stringed lute-like instrument in exile; formed during Ot- associated with rembetika toman rule to organise an music dark age (1200–800 BC) – uprising against the Turks bouzoukia – any nightclub period in which Greece was filoxenia – hospitality where the bouzouki is played under Dorian rule frourio – fortress; some- and low-grade blues songs domatio (s), domatia (pl) times also referred to as a are sung – room, often in a private kastro Byzantine Empire – char- home; a cheap form of ac- acterised by the merging commodation Geometric period – the of Hellenistic culture and Dorians – Hellenic warriors period (1200–800 BC) Christianity and named who invaded Greece around characterised by pottery after Byzantium, the city 1200 BC, demolishing the decorated with geometric on the Bosphorus that city-states and destroying became the capital of the designs; sometimes referred limenarhio – port police ouzerie – place that serves to as Greece’s dark age Linear A – Minoan script; so ouzo and light snacks 793 GNTO – Greek National far undeciphered OTE – Organismos Ti- Tourist Organisation; see Linear B – Mycenaean lepikoinonion Ellados; also EOT script; has been deciphered Greece’s major telecommu- LANGUAGE lyra – small violin-like in- nications carrier Hellas – the Greek name strument or lyre, played on for Greece; also known as the knee; common in Cretan Panagia – Mother of God Ellada or Ellas and Pontian music or Virgin Mary; name fre- Hellenistic period – pros- quently used for churches perous, influential period megaron – central room paralia – waterfront GLOSSARY (323–146 BC) of Greek or quarters of a Mycenaean panigyri (s), panigyria (p) civilisation ushered in by Al- palace – festival; the most common exander the Great’s empire- meltemi – dry northerly wind festivals celebrate annual building and lasting until the that blows throughout much saints’ days Roman sacking of Corinth of Greece in the summer pediment – triangular sec- hora – main town, usually mezedhopoleio – restaurant tion, often filled with sculp- on an island specialising in mezedhes ture above the columns, horio – village Middle Age – see Archaic found at the front and back period of a classical Greek temple Ionic – order of Greek archi- Minoan civilisation – periptero (s), periptera tecture characterised by a Bronze Age (3000–1200 (pl) – street kiosk column with truncated flutes BC) culture of Crete named peristyle – columns sur- and capitals with ornaments after the mythical King rounding a building, usually resembling scrolls; see also Minos, and characterised a temple or courtyard Doric and Corinthian by pottery and metalwork plateia – square of great beauty and artisan- pithos (s), pithoi (pl) – kastro – walled-in town; ship; it has three periods: large Minoan storage jar also describes a fortress or Protopalatial (3400–2100 or urn castle BC), Neopalatial (2100– propylon (s), propylaia katholikon – principal 1580 BC) and Postpalatial (pl) – elaborately built church of a monastic (1580–1200 BC) main entrance to an an- complex moni – monastery or cient city or sanctuary; a kore – female statue of the convent propylon had one gateway Archaic period; see also kouros Mycenaean civilisation – and a propylaia more than kouros (s), kouroi (pl) – first great civilisation one male statue of the Archaic pe- (1600–1100 BC) of the prytaneion – the adminis- riod, characterised by a stiff Greek mainland, character- trative centre of the city- body posture and enigmatic ised by powerful independ- state smile; see also kore ent city-states ruled by kings; also known as the kri-kri – endemic Cretan rembetika – blues songs, Achaean civilisation animal with large horns commonly associated with similar to a wild goat; also the underworld of the 1920s known as the agrimi New Democracy – Nea rhyton – another name for KTEL – Koino Tamio Eis- Dimodratia; conservative a libation vessel political party praxeon Leoforion; national rizitika – traditional, patri- bus cooperative, which necropolis – literally ‘city of otic songs of western Crete runs all long-distance bus the dead’; ancient cemetery services nisi – island Sarakatsani – Greek- nymphaeum – in ancient speaking nomadic shepherd laïka – literally ‘popular Greece, building containing community from northern (songs)’; mainstream a fountain and often dedi- Greece cated to nymphs songs that have either been stele (s), stelae (pl) – around for years or are of upright stone (or pillar) recent origin; also referred odeion – ancient Greek decorated with inscriptions to as urban folk music indoor theatre or figures leoforos – avenue; com- odos – street stoa – long colonnaded monly shortened to ‘leof’ OSE – Organismos Sidiro- building, usually in an agora; libation – in ancient Greece, dromon Ellados; the name used as a meeting place and wine or food that was of- of Greek Railways Organi- shelter in ancient Greece fered to the gods sation ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd taverna – the most com- tholos – Mycenaean tomb Vlach – traditional, semi- 794 mon type of traditional shaped like a beehive nomadic shepherds from restaurant that serves food Northern Greece who speak and wine a Latin-based dialect LANGUAGE GLOSSARY

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