Operation Manual IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Home , Buttonhole, Darning, Needle threader

When using this machine, basic safety precautions, including the following, should always be taken:

Read all instructions before use.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using it and before cleaning it. 2. Always unplug the machine before you change the light bulb. Replace the bulb with the same type and rated 15 watts.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, or electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 6. Do not use outdoors. 7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect the machine, set the main switch to the “{” position (which represents off), and then remove the plug from the outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle. 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use bent needles. 13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break. 14. Switch the machine to the “{” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot. 15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. 16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision. 17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS This machine is intended for household use.

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT (in the United Kingdom) Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. Main supply (AC 230/240V, 50Hz)

DO NOT cut off the main plug from the equipment. If the plug WARNING: DO NOT CONNECT EITHER fitted is not suitable for the power outlet in your home or the WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS cable is too short to reach a power outlet, then obtain an MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’ OR BY THE appropriate safety-approved extension lead or consult your EARTH SYMBOL , OR COLORED GREEN dealer. OR GREEN AND YELLOW. BE SURE to replace the fuse only with an identical approved The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with type, as originally fitted, and to replace the fuse cover. the following code: If the main plug is cut off, be sure to remove the fuse and Blue Neutral dispose of the plug immediately, to avoid a possible shock Brown Live hazard by inadvertent connection to the main power supply.

As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this IMPORTANT (in the other countries) appliance may not correspond with the colored markings If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows: supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug should be fitted. With alternative The wire that is colored blue must be connected to the plugs, an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. terminal marked with the letter ‘N’ or colored black or blue. NOTE: The plug severed from the main leads must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if The wire that is colored brown must be connected to the engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event that the plug terminal marked with the letter ‘L’ or colored red or brown. fuse is replaced, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e., carrying the mark, rated as marked on the plug.

CONNECTING PLUGS AND MAIN POWER/SEWING LIGHT SWITCH

1 2

1. Connect the three-prong plug into the machine. The main power/sewing light switch turns the main power 2. Connect the electrical supply plug into a wall outlet. and sewing light on or off. 1 Turn on • When leaving the machine unattended, the main 2 Turn off power switch of the machine should be switched off • When servicing the machine, removing covers or or the plug must be removed from the socket outlet. changing bulbs, the machine must be unplugged.

2 CONTENTS

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...... 1 CONNECTING PLUGS AND MAIN POWER/SEWING LIGHT SWITCH ...... 2 CONTENTS ...... 3 PRINCIPAL PARTS ...... 4 ACCESSORIES ...... 5 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ...... 6 Connecting Plugs ...... 6 Main Power/Sewing Light Switch ...... 7 Foot Controller ...... 7 Inserting the Needle ...... 7 Checking the Needle ...... 8 Changing the Presser Foot ...... 8 Converting to Free-arm Style ...... 9 Steadying the Machine ...... 9 THE CONTROLS ...... 10 Pattern Selection Dial ...... 10 Recommended Widths and Lengths for Stitches ...... 11 Stitch Length Dial ...... 13 Stretch Stitching ...... 13 Stitch Width Dial ...... 14 Reverse Sewing Lever ...... 14 Drop Feed Lever (if the machine is equipped with a drop feed lever) ...... 14 THREADING THE MACHINE ...... 15 Winding the Bobbin ...... 15 Lower Threading ...... 16 Upper Threading ...... 18 Using the Needle Threader (models equipped with a needle threader) ...... 19 Quick Thread-Setting System FAST START BOBBIN (models equipped with a quick thread-setting system) .... 20 Drawing up the lower thread ...... 21 Sewing with a Twin Needle ...... 21 Tension of the Thread ...... 22 CHART OF SEWING FABRICS, NEEDLES AND THREAD COMBINATIONS ...... 24 Please Read Before Sewing ...... 25 Straight Stitching ...... 25 Zigzag Stitching ...... 26 Blind Hem Stitching ...... 27 Shell Tuck Stitching ...... 27 Elastic Stitching ...... 28 Scallop Stitching ...... 28 Double Action Stitching ...... 29 Overedge Stitching ...... 29 Feather Stitching ...... 29 Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitching ...... 30 Decorative Stitching ...... 30 Making a Buttonhole (1-Step Automatic Buttonhole) ...... 30 Making a Buttonhole (4-Step Buttonhole) ...... 31 Adjusting Buttonholes ...... 33 Sewing Buttons ...... 33 Zipper Insertion ...... 34 Gathering ...... 35 Darning...... 35 Appliqués ...... 36 Monogramming and Embroidering ...... 36 MAINTENANCE ...... 38 Changing the Light Bulb ...... 38 Oiling ...... 38 Cleaning ...... 39 Performance Checklist ...... 40 Repacking the Machine ...... 42 INDEX ...... 43

3 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

PRINCIPAL PARTS

1 Bobbin-winding assembly (page 15) D Handle This winds the thread onto the bobbin, which you use E Balance wheel for the lower thread. Turn toward you (counterclockwise) to raise and lower 2 Spool pin (page 15 and 18) the needle. Holds the spool of thread. F Main power/sewing light switch (page 7) 3 Bobbin-winding tension disc and thread guide You can turn the main power and sewing light on and (page 15) off. 4 Thread take-up lever (page 18) G Foot controller receptacle (page 6) 5 Thread cutter (page 26) Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the machine to the power supply. 6 Upper tension-control dial (page 22) This controls the tension of the upper thread. H Presser foot lever (page 8) 7 Stitch width dial (page 14) This raises and lowers the presser foot. This controls the stitch width. I Foot controller (page 7) You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to 8 Pattern selection dial (page 10) start and stop sewing. You can turn this in either direction to choose the stitch you want. J Zigzag presser foot 9 Stitch length dial (page 13) This controls the length of the stitches. 0 Reverse-sewing lever (page 14) You can push this to stitch in the reverse direction. A Buttonhole fine adjustment screw (page 33) B Buttonhole lever (1-Step automatic buttonhole) (page 30) C Needle threader (page 19) This is only available on certain models. 4 ACCESSORIES

1 2 X59370-021 XA4911-151 X59369-321

(For 1 Step Automatic Buttonhole) (For 4 Step Buttonhole)

3 X59375-121 4 129583-001 5 X57521-001 6 SA156(For U.S.A.) SFB(XA5539-151)(For other countries)

7 X55467-021 8 130920-021 9 XA3442-121

1 Buttonhole foot (1 pc.) Parts code for zigzag presser foot: 138135-122 2 Zipper foot (1 pc.) Foot controller: 3 Button sewing foot (1 pc.) XC7359-021 (110/120V areas) 4 Needle pack (regular single needle HAX130) (3 pcs.) XC7438-021 (220/240V areas) 5 Twin needle (1 pc.) XC7456-021 (U.K.) XC7455-021 (Australia, New Zealand) 6 Bobbins (3 pcs.) 7 Screwdriver (1 pc.) The above accessories are stored in the accessory 8 Extra spool pin (1 pc.) bag inside the extension table. These accessories 9 Darning plate (1pc.) (When the machine is not have been designed to help you carry out most equipped with a Drop Feed.) sewing tasks.

5 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine. ● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: • When you are away from the machine • After using the machine • When the power fails during use • When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection • During electrical storms

CAUTION ● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result. ● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result. ● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock. ● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. ● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, otherwise a fire may result.

Connecting Plugs

Connect the power cord plug to the machine. 1 Connect the power supply plug to a wall 2 outlet.

6 Note Foot Controller ● When leaving the machine unattended, the When you press the foot controller down lightly, the main switch of the machine should be machine will run at a low speed. When you press switched off or the plug must be removed harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you from the socket outlet. take your foot off the foot controller, the machine ● When servicing the machine, removing will stop. You should make sure that nothing is covers or changing bulbs, the machine must placed on the foot controller when the machine is be unplugged. not in use. (For U.S.A. only) ● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Main Power/Sewing CAUTION Light Switch ● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to This switch turns the main power and sewing light build up on the foot controller, otherwise on or off. a fire or an electric shock could occur. 1 Turn on (toward the “I” mark) 2 Turn off (toward the “O” mark) Note (For U.S.A. only) ● Foot Controller: Model KD-1902 This foot controller can be used with Models XL-5500/XL-5600/XL-5700/

1 XL-5510/XL-5610/XL-5710. 2 .

Inserting the Needle

CAUTION ● Turn the main power switch off before you change the needle. If you leave the main power on and step on the foot controller, the machine will start and you may be injured. ● Only use sewing-machine needles for home use. Other needles may bend or break and cause injury. ● Never sew with a bent needle. A bent needle will easily break and cause injury.

Remove the power supply plug from the 1 electrical outlet.

7 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Raise the needle bar to its highest position. 2 Checking the Needle

Lower the presser foot. The sewing needle must always be straight 3 1 and sharp for smooth sewing.

If a needle is already installed, remove it by To check if the needle is bent, place the flat 4 loosening the needle clamp with a 2 side of the needle on a flat surface as shown. screwdriver and pulling the needle down. 1

Replace the needle if it is bent or dull. 3

1 Screwdriver • Do not use extreme force when Changing the Presser Foot loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of CAUTION the sewing machine may be damaged. ● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the controller, the machine will start and you may be injured. ● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you With the flat side of the needle toward the use the wrong presser foot, the needle 5 back of the machine, insert the needle until it may strike the presser foot and bend or touches the needle stopper. break, and may cause injury. Tighten the needle clamp. ● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. 1 Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury.

3 You will have to change the presser foot depending on what you want to sew and how. 2 ■ Snap-On Type

1 Screwdriver Raise the needle to its highest position by turning 2 Needle stopper 1 the balance wheel toward you (counterclockwise) 3 Needle and raise the presser foot lever.

CAUTION Release the foot by raising the lever at the 2 back of the holder assembly. ● Make sure to push in the needle until it touches the stopper, and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver. If the needle is not in fully, or if the needle clamp screw is loose, the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

8 Put a different presser foot on the needle plate 3 so that the bar on the presser foot is in line Converting to Free-arm Style with the slot on the shank. Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and Lower the presser foot lever and fix the hard-to-reach areas. To change your machine to the 4 presser foot onto the shank. If the presser foot free-arm style, lift out the extension table attachment. is in the correct place, the bar should snap in. 1 Lift the bottom of the extension table up toward you. 2 Pull the extension table out to remove it.

1 Extension table

Steadying the Machine When the machine is placed on an uneven surface, turn the rubber cushion on the front right-hand side of the base plate to adjust it until the machine is stable.

CAUTION ● If the presser foot is not installed with the correct orientation, the needle may strike the presser foot, which may bend or break the needle and cause injury.

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THE CONTROLS

Pattern Selection Dial Note To choose a stitch, simply turn the pattern selection ● Since the pattern selection dial is not dial in either direction. Stitch widths and lengths are continuous, it cannot be turned directly shown on the following page. from the last stitch to the first one or from 1 the first stitch to the last one. To select the first stitch when the last one is displayed or to select the last stitch when the first one is displayed, turn the pattern selection dial in the opposite direction until the desired stitch is displayed.

1 Pattern selection dial

■ 21 Stitches

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

■ 17 Stitches

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

■ 15 Stitches

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

10 Recommended Widths and Lengths for Stitches ■ 21 Stitches Recommended Recommended Page in Pattern Stitch Name Width Length Instructions [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] 1 1-STEP AUTOMATIC 3-5 -1.5 30 BUTTONHOLE (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 2 0-5 (0-3/16) 1-4 STRAIGHT STITCH (Changes needle position) (1/16-3/16) 25, 34, 35 3 ZIGZAG STITCH 0-5 -4 26, 33, 36 (0-3/16) (1/64-3/16) 4 BLIND HEM STITCH 3-5 -2 27 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 5 SHELL TUCK STITCH 3-5 -3 27 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 6 ELASTIC STITCH 3-5 -2.5 28 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-3/32) 7 STRETCH BLIND HEM STITCH 3-5 -1.5 27 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 8 SCALLOP STITCH 3-5 -1.5 28 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 9 DOUBLE ACTION STITCH 3-5 -3 29 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 10 BRIDGING STITCH 3-5 -3 — (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 11 RAMPART STITCH 3-5 -3 — (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 12 0-5 (0-3/16) Fixed TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH (Changes needle position) 2.5 (3/32) 25 13 3-5 Fixed TRIPLE ZIGZAG STRETCH STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 30 14 3-5 Fixed STRETCH OVERLOCK STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 15 3-5 Fixed ELASTIC OVERLOCK STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 16 3-5 Fixed FEATHER STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 17 3-5 Fixed ARROWHEAD STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 18 3-5 Fixed DECORATIVE STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 30 19 3-5 Fixed LEAF STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) — 20 3-5 Fixed TREE STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) — 21 3-5 Fixed LEGS STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) —

11 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

■ 17 Stitches Recommended Recommended Page in Pattern Stitch Name Width Length Instructions [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] 1 1-STEP AUTOMATIC 3-5 -1.5 30 BUTTONHOLE (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 2 STRAIGHT STITCH 0-5 (0-3/16) 1-4 (Changes needle position) (1/16-3/16) 25, 34, 35 3 ZIGZAG STITCH 0-5 -4 26, 33, 36 (0-3/16) (1/64-3/16) 4 BLIND HEM STITCH 3-5 -2 27 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 5 SHELL TUCK STITCH 3-5 -3 27 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 6 ELASTIC STITCH 3-5 -2.5 28 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-3/32) 7 STRETCH BLIND HEM STITCH 3-5 -1.5 27 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 8 SCALLOP STITCH 3-5 -1.5 28 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 9 DOUBLE ACTION STITCH 3-5 -3 29 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 10 0-5 (0-3/16) Fixed TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH (Changes needle position) 2.5 (3/32) 25 11 3-5 Fixed TRIPLE ZIGZAG STRETCH STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 30 12 3-5 Fixed STRETCH OVERLOCK STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 13 3-5 Fixed ELASTIC OVERLOCK STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 14 3-5 Fixed FEATHER STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 15 3-5 Fixed ARROWHEAD STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 16 3-5 Fixed DECORATIVE STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 30 17 3-5 Fixed LEAF STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) —

■ 15 Stitches Recommended Recommended Page in Pattern Stitch Name Width Length Instructions [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] 1 4-STEP BUTTONHOLE 3-5 -1.5 31 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 2 ZIGZAG STITCH 0-5 -4 26, 33, 36 (0-3/16) (1/64-3/16) 3 0-5 (0-3/16) 1-4 STRAIGHT STITCH (Changes needle position) (1/16-3/16) 25, 34, 35 4 STRETCH BLIND HEM STITCH 3-5 -1.5 27 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 12 5 SHELL TUCK STITCH 3-5 -3 27 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 6 ELASTIC STITCH 3-5 -2.5 28 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-3/32) 7 DOUBLE ACTION STITCH 3-5 -3 29 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 8 BLIND HEM STITCH 3-5 -2 27 (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 9 3-5 Fixed TRIPLE ZIGZAG STRETCH STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 30 10 0-5 (0-3/16) Fixed TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH (Changes needle position) 2.5 (3/32) 25 11 3-5 Fixed ARROWHEAD STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 12 3-5 Fixed ELASTIC OVERLOCK STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 13 3-5 Fixed FEATHER STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29 14 3-5 Fixed LEAF STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) — 15 3-5 Fixed STRETCH OVERLOCK STITCH (1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 29

Stitch Length Dial CAUTION Depending on the selected stitch, you may need to ● If the stitches are bunched together, adjust the stitch length for best results. The numbers lengthen the stitch length and continue marked on the stitch length dial represent the stitch sewing. Do not continue sewing without length in millimeters (mm) (1/25"). lengthening the stitch length, otherwise THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, THE LONGER THE the needle may break and cause injury. STITCH. With the “0” setting material is not fed. This is used when sewing on a button. The “ ” range is for making a satin stitch (close zigzag Stretch Stitching stitch), which is used for making buttonholes and ■ decorative stitches. The position needed for making the Selecting a stretch stitch satin stitch varies according to the material and thread Setting the stitch length dial to “SS ” changes the being used. To determine the exact dial position, first selected pattern to a stretch stitch. test the stitch and length settings on a scrap piece of fabric to observe the feeding of the material. SS

1 1 0 2

■ 23Adjusting the stretch stitching The machine is adjusted at the factory so that the 1 stretch stitching can be sewn with the stitch length dial set to “SS ” (standard position).

1 Stitch length dial 2 Longer 3 Shorter

13 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

If different types of fabric or thread are used or the pattern does not have the correct shape, turn the Reverse Sewing Lever dial toward either “+” or “-” to adjust the stitch. You can use reverse sewing for backtacking and – 1 reinforcing seams. SS 2 + 3 To sew in reverse, push the reverse sewing lever in • as far as possible and hold it in that position while • • you lightly push the foot controller. To sew forward, • 4 release the reverse sewing lever. The machine will 3 then sew forward. 1 Makes fine stitches 2 Standard position 3 Makes rough stitches

Note ● The dial cannot be turned past “· · · · + SS -”. Do not forcefully turn the stitch length dial out of the allowable range.

Stitch Width Dial Drop Feed Lever (if the machine is Depending on the stitch selected, you may need to equipped with a drop feed lever) adjust the stitch width. The numbers marked on the dial represent the stitch width. THE HIGHER THE Use the drop feed lever to raise or lower the feed NUMBER, THE WIDER THE STITCH. dogs according to the job that is being done. When monogramming, embroidering, darning or sewing on 1 buttons, the feed dogs should be lowered so that the garment will not be fed.

1 Stitch width dial

Note ● When the Straight or Triple Stretch Stitches 1 are selected, the needle position can be Drop feed lever 2 Up position: Feed dogs are down. changed from left to right. 3 Down position: Feed dogs are up. ● When the Straight or Triple Stretch Stitches are selected, the needle position can be changed by adjusting the stitch width dial.

14 THREADING THE MACHINE

right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, Winding the Bobbin until the spring slides into the slit.

CAUTION ● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)) that has been 2 designed for this sewing machine. Using 1 of any other bobbin may cause damage to 1 Spring the machine. 2 Slit ● The bobbin was designed specifically for While holding the end of the thread, gently this sewing machine. If bobbins from older 4 press the foot controller to wind the thread models are used, the machine will not around the bobbin a few times. Then, stop the operate correctly. Use only the enclosed machine. bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)). Actual size

11.5 mm (7/16")

Trim the excess thread above the bobbin and Put the spool of thread on the spool pin and 5 continue winding the thread onto the bobbin 1 pass the thread around the bobbin-winding by pressing the foot controller. tension disc.

1 Note 2 ● The machine stops automatically when the bobbin is full.

1 Bobbin-winding tension disc 2 Bobbin-winding shaft After the machine stops, cut the thread, slide 6 the shaft to the left, and then remove the CAUTION bobbin. ● If the spool of thread is not in the right place, the thread may tangle on the spool pin. Note ● The needle bar does not move after the bobbin-winding shaft is slid to the right. Pass the end of the thread through the hole on ● 2 the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin. Immediately after winding the bobbin, it is normal to hear the sound of the clutch Put the bobbin onto the bobbin-winding shaft engaging when beginning to sew or turning 3 and slide the bobbin-winding shaft to the the balance wheel.

15 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

CAUTION Lower Threading ● Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the thread completely, and the bobbin is wound, CAUTION when the thread runs low it may tangle ● Setting the bobbin improperly may cause around the bobbin and cause the needle the thread tension to loosen, breaking the to break. needle and resulting in injury.

CAUTION ● Setting the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may 2 break the needle. 1 1 Wound evenly 2 Wound poorly ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type 1 2 (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)). Actual size 1 Wound evenly 2 Wound poorly 11.5 mm (7/16")

CAUTION ● Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to work, you could be injured.

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning 1 the balance wheel toward you (counterclockwise) and raise the presser foot lever.

Open the shuttle cover behind the extension 2 table on the front of the machine and pull the bobbin case out of the shuttle race by pulling the latch toward you.

1 2 1 Bobbin case latch 2 Bobbin case finger

16 Unwind about 10 cm (4") of thread from a full 3 bobbin and insert the bobbin into the bobbin CAUTION case. (See fig. A-1.) Pull the trailing thread into the slot, then down and to the left, as ● To reduce the risk of injury from moving shown in fig. A-2, until it enters the delivery parts, be sure to turn off the machine eye under the tension spring (fig. A-3). before servicing it. In addition, be sure to A-1 close the shuttle cover.

A-2 A-3 1

1 Tension spring CAUTION ● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the correct direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

Holding the bobbin case by the latch, fully 4 insert the bobbin case into the shuttle race and release the latch. Make sure the bobbin case finger fits into the notch at the top of the race.

1 Bobbin case finger 2 Notch

Note ● If the bobbin case is not properly placed back into the machine, it will fall out from the shuttle immediately after you start sewing.

17 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Upper Threading

1 Spool pin 3 Tension discs 2 Thread guide 4 Thread take-up lever

While holding the thread, pull it between the CAUTION 4 tension discs. ● Make sure you thread the machine properly, otherwise the thread could tangle and break the needle.

Set the main power switch to “O”. Raise the presser foot lever and turn the balance 1 wheel toward you (counterclockwise) to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position. Guide the thread to the back of the thread 5 take-up lever and around to the left. Bring the Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of thread thread through the slit by pulling it toward 2 on this pin. you and into the eyelet.

CAUTION 1 ● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or 1 is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break. 1 Thread take-up lever Pass the thread through guides. 3 1 4 2 3

1 Spool pin 2 Thread guide 3 Tension discs 4 Thread take-up lever

18 Bring the thread down and pass it behind the Turn the balance wheel toward you 6 thread guide. 2 (counterclockwise) until the bottom of the needle holder aligns with the bottom of the needle-threading-hook holder.

2 3 4 1 1 Needle holder 2 Needle threader lever 3 Hook holder 4 Align 1 Thread guide

Thread the needle from front to back and pull Note 7 out about 5 cm (2") of thread. ● When you use the needle threader, make sure to align the bottom of the needle holder with the bottom of the holder for the needle-threading hook before lowering the needle threader lever, otherwise the hook may be damaged.

While lowering the needle threader lever, 1 3 hook the thread onto the guide.

1 5cm (2inch)

Note ● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the 1 upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise 2 the presser foot lever and the thread take-up before you feed the upper thread. ● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems. 3 1 Needle holder 2 Needle threader lever 3 Guide Using the Needle Threader (models equipped with a needle threader) Pull down the needle threader lever as much 4 as possible, and then turn the lever toward the Set the main power switch to “O”. back of the machine (away from you). Make sure that the hook passes through the eye of Lower the presser foot lever. the needle and grabs the thread. 1

• Hold the thread in front of the needle to make sure that the hook grabs it.

19 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

While lightly holding the thread, turn the 5 needle threader lever toward the front of the Quick Thread-Setting System FAST START BOBBIN machine (toward you). The hook will pull the (models equipped with a quick thread-setting system) thread through the needle. This new system allows you to start sewing immediately after inserting the bobbin without pulling up the lower thread. You can, however, draw up the lower thread as explained in “Drawing up the lower thread” if you wish. 2 1 1 Set the main power switch to “O”. 1 Hook 2 Thread Hold the end of the bobbin thread and insert 1 the bobbin case into the shuttle. 1

Raise the needle threader lever and pull out 1 Bobbin case 2 Shuttle 6 about 5 cm (2") of thread through the needle toward the back of the sewing machine. Close the shuttle cover while pulling the 2 thread through the slit in the cover.

1 1 Shuttle cover CAUTION 2 Slit

● The needle threader can only be used Slide the thread down to the bottom of the with home sewing machine needles size 3 slit, pull it up, and then cut it on the cutter to 75/11-100/16. Check the table on complete the lower threading. page 24 for the appropriate needle and thread combinations. If you are using Pull out about 15 cm (6") of the upper thread 4 transparent nylon mono-filament thread, as usual, and then pull it between the toes of the presser foot and straight toward the back you can only use needles in the range of of the machine. 90/14-100/16. ● You cannot use the needle threader if you are using decorative threads or speciality needles, such as the twin needle and wing needle. If you are using these types of threads or needles, thread the needle by hand. Make sure the main power switch is off when threading the needle by hand. Start sewing as usual. (It is not necessary to 5 draw up the bobbin thread.) (Refer to page 21.)

20 Drawing up the lower thread Sewing with a Twin Needle We have designed your machine so you can sew Raise the presser foot and the needle to their with this needle and two top threads. You can use 1 highest positions. the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. CAUTION ● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-001). Other needles could break, and damage the machine. ● When using the twin needle, make sure the stitch width dial is not set above “3” While lightly holding the end of the upper since this may cause the needle to hit the 2 thread, slowly turn the balance wheel to the front (counterclockwise) once by hand to needle plate and break. ● lower, then raise the needle. Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and cause injuries. The upper thread should have caught the ● When using the twin needle, make sure 3 lower thread in a loop. Pull on the upper you use the zigzag presser foot only. thread to draw up the lower thread. ■ Attaching the Twin Needle Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single needle (see page 7). The flat side of the needle should face toward the back and the 1 rounded side should face toward you. ■ Attaching the Extra Spool Pin 2 Put the extra vertical spool pin in the hole on the top right-hand side of the machine. Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin. 1 Upper thread 2 Lower thread loop 1

Pull out about 15 cm (6") of both threads and 4 put them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot. The upper thread should pass between the toes of the presser foot.

1 Extra spool pin

1 Upper thread 2 Lower thread

21 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

■ Twin Needle Threading ■ Possible Problems If the Tension Is Wrong You should thread each needle separately. Upper tension is too tight. Locks will appear on the surface of the fabric. Threading the Right Needle 1 Follow the same instructions for threading a Upper tension control dial single needle. See page 18 for more details. Decrease the tension by turning the dial to a lower number. Threading the Left Needle 2 Thread the left needle in the same way that you threaded the right needle using the 2 1 5 thread from the spool on the extra spool pin, 6 4 but do not pass the thread through the thread guide above the needle before you pass it 2 through the eye of the left needle. 1

1 Reverse 2 Surface Upper tension is too loose. Locks appear on the reverse side of the fabric. 2 1 3 Upper tension control dial Increase the tension by turning the dial to a higher number.

1 Right needle thread passes through thread guide 2 Left needle thread passes in front of thread guide 2 1 5 6 4 3 Thread guide

2 1 Note 1 Reverse Models that are equipped with a Needle 2 Surface Threader ● You cannot use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the Note twin needle by hand, from front to back. ● The lower thread tension has been adjusted Using the needle threader may damage the at the factory for general use. For most machine. sewing applications, no adjustment is needed. When sewing with thin thread on thin fabrics, the thread tension cannot be Tension of the Thread adjusted adequately with the upper tension control dial. Instead, the thread tension The tension of the thread will affect the quality of must be adjusted according to the your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you procedure described below. change fabric or thread. Lower tension is too loose. Memo Locks appear on the surface of the fabric. Decrease the thread tension by turning the dial to ● We recommend that you sew a scrap piece a lower number. If the result is still not of fabric to check the thread tension before satisfactory, then adjust the bobbin thread tension sewing on your project. as explained below. ● The basic thread tension setting is “5”. Bobbin Increase the tension in the bobbin by turning the screw with a small screwdriver in a clockwise direction. However, do not turn the screw more than one full turn. Remember to return the screw to its original position before starting your next project.

22 Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric.

2 1

1 Reverse 2 Surface

23 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

CHART OF SEWING FABRICS, NEEDLES AND THREAD COMBINATIONS

Thread Fabric Type Size of Needle Type Size Broadcloth Cotton 60–80 Medium- Taffeta Synthetic weight mercerized 75/11–90/14 fabrics Flannel, Silk or – Gabardine silk finished 50 80 Lawn, Batiste Cotton Synthetic 60–80 Lightweight Georgette 75/11 fabrics mercerized Challis, Satin Silk 50–80 Denim Cotton 30–50 Heavy- weight Corduroy Synthetic 90/14–100/16 fabrics mercerized 50 Tweed Silk Jersey Ball-point needle Stretch Thread for knits – (golden colored) fabrics 50 60 Tricot 75/11–90/14 Synthetic For top-stitching mercerized 30 90/14–100/16 Silk

Note ● Select the correct needle and thread size from the above chart. ● Use the same size thread for the upper (spool) and lower (bobbin) threads. ● For clear nylon thread, always use needle 90/14 - 100/16.

CAUTION ● Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using the wrong combination, for example, using heavyweight fabric such as denim with a small needle (for example, 75/11) may bend or break the needle. Also, the seam may be uneven, the fabric may pucker, or the machine may skip stitches.

24 Please Read Before Sewing

CAUTION ● To avoid being injured, watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine. Keep your hands away from moving parts. ● Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing, otherwise the needle may be damaged and you may be injured. ● Do not use bent or broken needles, otherwise you may be injured. ● Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or other objects during sewing, otherwise the needle may break and you may be injured. ● Always use the correct presser foot. If you use the wrong presser, the needle may hit the presser foot and bend or break and you may also be injured. ● When you turn the balance wheel by hand, always turn it toward the front of the machine (counterclockwise). Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric. You may also be injured.

■ Backtacking Straight Stitching Press the reverse sewing lever down as far as 6 Stitch Length Stitch Width possible, and then lightly step on the foot Stitch Name Pattern [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] controller. Sew 5 to 10 stitches in the reverse direction. Straight Stitch 1-4 (1/16-3/16) Release the reverse sewing lever and start 5-0* 7 sewing in the forward direction by pressing (3/16-0) Triple Stretch Fixed 2.5 the foot controller. Stitch (3/32)

*Turn the stitch width dial to adjust the needle position. Setting the dial to “5” selects the left needle position; setting the dial to “0” selects the right needle position. ■ Starting Sewing

Turn the pattern selection dial to choose the 1 Straight Stitch or Triple Stretch Stitch. • You can use reverse sewing for locking the Raise the needle to its highest position and lift end of seams and where you need to 2 the presser foot lever. strengthen a stitch.

Pull up the lower thread by turning the CAUTION 3 balance wheel toward you (counterclockwise), and place both the upper ● Make sure the needle does not hit a pin and lower threads behind the presser foot. or any other object during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could Put the fabric under the presser foot and break. You could also be injured. 4 position the needle 1 cm (3/8") from the edge of the fabric. ■ Changing Sewing Direction

Lower the presser foot. With the needle still in the fabric, stop the 5 1 machine at the point where you want to change the sewing direction.

25 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to its To prepare the machine for the next seam, 2 new direction using the needle as a turning 4 pull about 10 cm (4") of thread through the point for the fabric. toes of the presser foot toward the back of the machine. ■ Top-Stitching and Stretch Materials You can use the Straight Stitch for top-stitching and sewing lightweight fabrics. You can use Triple Stretch Stitch for sewing stretch fabrics.

Zigzag Stitching

Lower the presser foot and continue sewing in 3 the new direction. Stitch Stitch ■ Stitch Name Pattern Length Width Finishing Sewing [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Stitch to the end of the seam and stop. Zigzag Stitch -4 0-5 1 (1/64-3/16) (0-3/16) Push the reverse sewing lever and stitch 2 backwards for 1 cm (3/8") from the end of the ■ Zigzag Stitch fabric. Turn the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch, and then select the stitch length and the stitch width.

■ Removing the Material from the Machine

Stop the machine. We recommend that you sew using the Straight 1 Raise the needle to its highest position and Stitch at the beginning and end of the zigzag make sure that the thread take-up lever is also stitches. at its highest position.

Lift the presser foot and pull the fabric out 2 gently to the left-hand side.

Cut both threads with the thread cutter on the 3 left-hand side of the machine.

1 ■ SATIN STITCH Setting the Zigzag Stitch length in the “ ” range produces a satin stitch (close zigzag stitch). The satin stitch can be used for making buttonholes and decorative stitches. Set the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch, set the stitch length in the “ ” range, and set the stitch width dial between “0” and “5”. 1 Thread cutter

26 When the fabric is unfolded you will have a Blind Hem Stitching 5 blind hem stitch as shown in fig. D. A 2 B 1 Stitch Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Length Width [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] 1 2 Blind Hem -2 3-5 Stitch (1/64-1/16) (1/8-3/16)

C 1 D 2 Stretch Blind -1.5 3-5 Hem Stitch (1/64-1/16) (1/8-3/16)

You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge 2 1 of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing. Use the Blind Hem Stitch when sewing on non-stretch fabrics, and the Stretch Blind Hem Stitch for stretch fabrics. 1 Right side of fabric 2 Wrong side of fabric Both threads should be the same color as the 1 fabric. Note ● The Stretch Blind Hem Stitch is useful for Fold back the hem, as shown in fig. A. Then stretch fabrics. 2 fold the edge of the fabric as in fig. B. Leave a 6 mm (15/64") overlap at the edge.

Set the pattern selection dial to the Blind Hem Shell Tuck Stitching 3 Stitch or Stretch Blind Hem Stitch, and then set the stitch length. Stitch Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Length Width Sew on the fold as in fig. C. [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] 4 Shell Tuck -3 3-5 Stitch (1/64-1/8) (1/8-3/16)

The Shell Tuck Stitch can be used to sew a picot (lace-like) edge on lightweight fabric.

Set the pattern selection dial to the Shell Tuck Stitch. 1 Adjust the thread tension so that it is tighter 2 than normal.

Place the fabric under the presser foot so that 3 it will be sewn along the bias with the straight stitches sewn on the seamline and the zigzag stitches sewn slightly over the folded edge.

Sew at a slow speed. 4

27 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

■ Joining Fabric Elastic Stitching You can use the Elastic Stitch to join two pieces of fabric together. In addition, it is very effective Stitch Stitch when sewing knitted fabrics. If you are using Stitch Name Pattern Length Width nylon thread, the stitch will not be visible. [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Put the edge of the two pieces of fabric 3-5 1 together and center them under the presser Elastic Stitch -2.5 (1/64-3/32) (1/8-3/16) foot.

You can use the Elastic Stitch for mending, sewing Sew them together using the Elastic Stitch. elastic or joining fabric. Each is explained below. 2 Make sure you keep the two fabric edges close Set the pattern selection dial to the Elastic Stitch. together. ■ Mending

Set the stitch length dial between " " and 1 “2.5”.

Place the reinforcement fabric under the area 2 you want to mend.

Following the line of the tear, sew using the 3 Elastic Stitch as illustrated.

Scallop Stitching

Stitch Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Length Width ■ Sewing Elastic [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] -1.5 Scallop Stitch 3-5 Place the elastic on the fabric. (1/64-1/16) (1/8-3/16) 1 As you sew, stretch the elastic in front of and This machine automatically produces a Scallop 2 behind the presser foot. Stitch for decorative edging.

Set the pattern selection dial to the Scallop 1 Stitch.

Sew the Scallop Stitch along the edge of the 2 material.

If desired, trim around the scallop with 3 scissors to create a scalloped edge. Be careful not to cut the thread.

28 Put the fabric under the presser foot so that Double Action Stitching 2 the seamline (or arrowhead point) is approximately 3 mm (1/8") to the left of the Stitch Stitch center of the presser foot. This stitch works Stitch Name Pattern Length Width best with a seam allowance of approximately [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] 6 mm (1/4") as this allows the right (zigzag) side of the stitch to overlock the cut edge of Double Action -3 3-5 the fabric. Stitch (1/64-1/8) (1/8-3/16)

This stitch is used for joining two pieces of fabric, for example, when making patchwork. Set the pattern selection dial to the Double Action Stitch.

If the seam allowance is wider than the stitch 3 pattern, trim away any excess fabric after stitching.

A finished Elastic Overlock Stitch is shown in the diagram below.

Overedge Stitching

Stitch Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Length Width Feather Stitching [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

Stretch 3-5 Stitch Stitch Overlock (1/8-3/16) Stitch Name Pattern Length Width Stitch [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Elastic Fixed 2.5 Fixed 2.5 3-5 Overlock (3/32) Feather Stitch Stitch 3-5 (3/32) (1/8-3/16) (1/8-3/16) Arrowhead Use the Feather Stitch as a decorative top-stitch Stitch when hemming blankets, tablecloths or draperies, or when embroidering. You can use these stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. The Overlock Stitches Set the pattern selection dial to the Feather are also useful for sewing stretch materials while the 1 Stitch. Arrowhead Stitch is ideal for sewing the edge of a blanket. Place the fabric right side up and sew 1 cm 2 (3/8") from the edge of the fabric. Set the pattern selection dial to the Elastic 1 Overlock, Stretch Overlock or Arrowhead. Trim close to the stitching. 3

29 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

The stitch will prevent the fabric from unravelling. Making a Buttonhole (1-Step Automatic Buttonhole)

Stitch Stitch Pattern Length Width Foot [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

-1.5 3-5 Buttonhole (1-Step (1/64-1/16) (1/8-3/16) Foot Automatic Buttonhole)

Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitching Memo ● We recommend that you practice making a Stitch Stitch buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric before you try it on the actual garment. Stitch Name Pattern Length Width ● [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] When making buttonholes on soft fabrics, place stabilizer material on the underside of Triple Zigzag Fixed 2.5 3-5 the fabric. Stretch Stitch (3/32) (1/8-3/16) Making a buttonhole is a simple process that This stitch can be used wherever a Zigzag Stitch provides reliable results. would be used to sew heavyweight stretch fabrics. ■ Making a Buttonhole The Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch can also be used as a decorative top-stitch. Set the pattern selection dial to Using tailor’s chalk, mark the position and the Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch. 1 length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

Attach the buttonhole foot and set the pattern 2 selection dial to " ".

You need to sew the front bar tack first. Lower 3 the presser foot to align the marks on the foot with the mark on the fabric.

Open the button plate and insert the button. 4

3 Decorative Stitching 1 – Stitch Stitch 2 Stitch Name Pattern Length Width [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

Decorative Fixed 2.5 3-5 Stitch (3/32) (1/8-3/16) 1 Starting mark on the fabric 2 Marks on the foot This stitch can be used for decorative stitching. 3 Button plate

30 Lower the buttonhole lever and push it back Once sewing is completed, gently pull the 5 slightly. 4 gimp thread to remove any slack, and then trim off the excess.

PUSH PUSH

PUSH

While gently holding the upper thread, start 6 the machine.

The bar tacks of the buttonhole are sewn in 7 the order shown. 3 Making a Buttonhole (4-Step Buttonhole)

Stitch 24 Stitch Length Pattern Width Foot [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

1 -1.5 3-5 Buttonhole (1/64-1/16) (1/8-3/16) Foot Stop the machine when buttonhole stitching is (4-Step 8 finished. Buttonhole)

■ Making a Buttonhole on Stretch Fabrics Memo When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabric, the ● We recommend that you practice making a buttonhole stitching is sewn over a gimp thread. buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric before you try it on the actual garment. Using tailor’s chalk, mark the position of the ● When making buttonholes on soft fabrics, 1 buttonhole on the fabric, and then attach the place stabilizer material on the underside of buttonhole foot and set the pattern selection the fabric. dial to “ ”. Making a buttonhole is a simple process that Hook the gimp thread onto the back end of provides reliable results. 2 the buttonhole foot, bring the two gimp thread ends to the front of the foot, insert ■ Making a Buttonhole them into the grooves, and then temporarily tie them there. Using tailor’s chalk, mark the position and 1 length of the buttonhole on the fabric. Lower the presser foot and start sewing. 3 *Set the stitch width to match the diameter of Attach the buttonhole foot, and then slide the the gimp thread. 2 outside frame of the buttonhole foot as far back as possible.

31 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

You need to sew the front bar tack first. Line ■ Securing the Stitching and Cutting the 3 the bar tack mark under the center of the Buttonhole presser foot and align it with the two lines on the presser foot. To secure the stitching, turn the material 90 1 degrees counterclockwise and sew straight stitches to the end of the front bar tack of the buttonhole.

1 Remove the material from the machine. We 2 2 recommend that you put pins across both ends of the buttonhole to prevent the stitches from being cut.

1 Front of chalk mark Cut an opening in the middle of the 2 Red lines 3 buttonhole with a seam ripper. Be careful not to cut through any stitches. CAUTION ● If the presser foot is not installed with the correct orientation, the needle may strike the presser foot, bending or breaking the needle and causing injuries.

■ Making A Buttonhole

Step Sewn section Pattern

Step 1 a/c c (Front bar tack) a CAUTION a ● When using the seam ripper to open the 1. Set the pattern selection dial to “a”. 2. Lower the presser foot and sew 5 to 6 stitches. buttonhole, do not put your hand or 3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left fingers in the path of the ripper. The seam side of the stitches, and then raise the needle ripper may slip and cause injuries. from the material.

Step 2 b b (Left side)

1. Turn the pattern selection dial to “b”. 2. Sew the predetermined length of the tailor's chalk line. 3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left side of the stitch, and then raise the needle.

Step 3 c a/c (Back bar tack) c a

1. Turn the pattern selection dial to “c” (same position as in step 1). 2. Sew 5 to 6 stitches. 3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the right side of the stitch, and then raise the needle from the material.

Step 4 d (Right side)

d 1. Set the pattern selection dial to “d”. 2. Sew the right side until the needle reaches the stitches sewn in step 1.

32 • This adjustment ensures both sides of the Adjusting Buttonholes buttonhole are the same. 2 If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not the same, you can make the following 1 adjustments. 3

Set the stitch length dial to " " and sew the 1 buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric to observe how the material is fed.

If the right side of the buttonhole is too coarse 2 or fine, adjust the feeding of the material with the Stitch Length Dial. 4 4

1 0 1 0 2 2

1 Stitch length dial 2 2 Buttonhole fine adjustment screw 3 3 Left side 4 In this case 23 1 0

2 1 Right side 2 Shorter Sewing Buttons 3 Longer Stitch Stitch After obtaining a satisfactory feeding on the Stitch Pattern Length Width Foot 3 right side, stitch the buttonhole and observe Name [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] the feeding. Button Zigzag Any Sewing If the left side is too coarse or fine compared Stitch (1/64) Foot 4 with the right side, adjust the buttonhole fine adjustment screw as described below. Measure the distance between the holes and If the left side is too coarse, turn the buttonhole 1 fine adjustment screw with a large screwdriver set the appropriate stitch width using the in the - direction. stitch width dial. For example, if the distance If the left side is too fine, turn the buttonhole between the holes is 1.5 mm (1/16"), set the fine adjustment screw with a large screwdriver stitch width to “1.5”. in the + direction. Attach the button sewing foot. 2 Place the darning plate on the needle plate. 3 (On a machine equipped with a drop feed lever, lower the feed dogs by setting the drop feed lever to the up position.)

33 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Put a button between the foot and the fabric 4 and make sure that the needle enters the holes Zipper Insertion without hitting the button. If it hits, see step 1. Stitch Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Length Width Foot [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] 2.5 (center Straight 2-3 needle Zipper Stitch (1/16-1/8) position) Foot (3/32) At a slow speed, sew about 10 stitches. You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of 5 zippers, and can easily position the zipper to the right or left side of the needle. When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing the left side of the zipper, attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of the zipper foot.

1 2

Remove the material from the machine. Cut 6 the upper and lower threads and tie both 3 threads at the back of the material. 1 Zipper foot 2 Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper 3 Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper

Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight 1 Stitch (center needle position (2.5 mm (3/32")).

CAUTION Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the 2 left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the ● Make sure the needle does not hit the shank. button during sewing, otherwise the needle may break and you may be Fold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4") and 3 place the zipper under the folded section. injured. Use the stitch width dial to adjust the needle 4 position. Lower the needle into the notch on either the left or right side of the zipper foot.

CAUTION ● Turn the balance wheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. If you choose a different stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. You may also be injured.

34 Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the 5 top on both sides. The needle should be Darning positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results. Stitch Stitch Name Pattern Length [mm (inch)]

Straight Stitch Any

Place the darning plate on the needle plate. 1 (On a machine equipped with a drop feed lever, lower the feed dogs by setting the drop feed lever to the up position.)

To sew the opposite side of the zipper, release 6 the foot by raising the lever located at the back of the presser foot, position the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the notch on the other side. CAUTION ● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper, the needle may break and you may be injured. Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight 2 Stitch.

Gathering Put the section you want to darn under the 3 presser foot, together with a piece of fabric Stitch for reinforcement. Stitch Name Pattern Length [mm (inch)] Remove the presser foot and presser foot 4 holder, and then lower the presser foot lifter. 4 Straight Stitch (3/16) Begin sewing by alternating between gently 5 drawing the work away from you and pulling Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight it toward you. 1 Stitch. Repeat this motion until the darning section is Loosen the tension of the upper thread so that 6 filled with parallel lines of stitching. 2 the lower thread lies on the underside of the material.

Sew a single row (or many rows) of straight 3 stitches.

Pull the lower threads to gather the material. 4

35 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Appliqués Monogramming and Embroidering Stitch Length Stitch Width Stitch Name Pattern [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Stitch Stitch Stitch -2 Name Pattern Length Width Foot Zigzag Stitch Any [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] (1/64-1/16) Zigzag You can create an applique by cutting a different piece Stitch Any Any None of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration. ■ Preparing for sewing a Monogram and Baste the cutout to the fabric at the desired Embroidering 1 location. Place the darning plate on the needle plate. Carefully sew around the edge of the cutout 1 (On a machine equipped with a drop feed 2 using a Zigzag Stitch with a fine stitch length. lever, lower the feed dogs by setting the drop feed lever to the up position.)

Set the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag 2 Stitch.

Draw the lettering (for monogramming) or 3 design (for embroidering) on the surface of the fabric.

Stretch the fabric between embroidery hoops 4 as firmly as possible, with the underside of the fabric on the bottom of the inside hoop.

Put the work under the needle with the Cut away any fabric that is left outside the 5 presser foot holder assembly removed. 3 stitching. Pull the lower thread up through the work at 6 the starting position by turning the balance wheel, and then make a few holding stitches.

Remove the basting, if necessary. 4

Memo Grip the hoop with your thumbs and 7 forefingers while pressing the fabric with your ● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the middle and third fingers and supporting the beginning and the end of the stitching to secure outside of the hoop with your little fingers. it.

CAUTION ● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing, as the needle can break. You may also be injured.

36 Note Memo ● ● After sewing without feeding, prepare for You can make long stitches by moving the the next seam by returning the drop feed embroidery hoop rapidly and short stitches lever to the down position so that the feed by moving it slowly. dogs are raised.

Secure with a few straight stitches at the end CAUTION 3 of the design. ● Keep fingers away from moving parts, especially needles. CAUTION ● Keep fingers away from moving parts, ■ Monogram especially needles.

Sew by moving the hoop slowly along the 1 lettering at a constant speed.

Secure with a few straight stitches at the end 2 of the last letter.

■ Embroidering

Stitch the outline of the design by moving the 1 embroidery hoop.

Fill in the design alternating from the outline 2 of the design to the inside and from the inside to the edge of the outline until the design is completely filled in. Keep the stitching close together.

37 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

MAINTENANCE

Reattach the face plate and fasten the screw. Changing the Light Bulb 5

Remove the power supply plug from the 1 outlet.

Loosen the face plate screw. 2 Oiling

Remove the power supply plug from the 1 outlet.

Remove the needle plate and the face plate, 2 and then put 2 to 3 drops of oil at each point indicated by the arrows.

Remove the face plate from the machine as 3 shown below.

Note ● Use only a bulb of the same type and rated 15 W. Operate the machine at a fast speed for a 3 short time without thread installed. Replace the sewing light bulb. 4 Be sure to wipe any excess oil off the 4 machine.

1 Bulb 2 Loosen 3 Tighten

38 ■ Cleaning the Shuttle Race Cleaning Remove any accumulated lint and thread from ■ Removing the Shuttle Hook 1 the retaining ring, hook, driver and race body with a brush. Raise the needle to its highest position and 1 unplug the machine.

Remove the extension table and open the 2 shuttle cover on the front of the free arm.

Take the bobbin case out of the shuttle race 3 by opening and pulling the latch.

Slide the latch levers away from the retaining 4 ring to remove it.

Wipe lint from the shuttle race using a cloth 2 dampened with machine oil. 2

Clean the shuttle hook as described in step 2. 3

1 Retaining ring 2 Latch lever When reinstalling the removed parts, hold the 4 retaining ring in place with the notch at the Remove the hook by grasping its center post top while pushing the latch levers back to 5 and pulling it out. their original positions. 3 5 ■ Cleaning the Feed Dogs

2 Remove the needle plate by removing the 1 screws with a coin. 4 1 1 Clean the upper part of the feed dogs and 2 shuttle race body with a brush.

1 Retaining ring 2 Latch lever 3 Hook 4 Driver 5 Race body

Note ● When the needle is lowered, the shuttle hook cannot be removed.

39 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Performance Checklist Whenever sewing difficulties are encountered, first review the manual section about the operation that you are performing, to make sure you are using the machine correctly. If the problem persists, the following checklist may help improve the operation. If you still have difficulties, contact your nearest service center.

UPPER THREAD LOWER THREAD SKIPPED FABRIC BREAKS BREAKS STITCHES LOOP IN SEAM PUCKERS

Upper threading Lower thread is Needle is incor- Thread tension is Thread tension is is not correct. tangled. rectly inserted. incorrect. too tight.

Page 18No Page 16 No Page 8 No Page 22 No Page 22 No

Bobbin is not Upper thread is threaded properly Inferior needle is Threading is not tangled. in the shuttle used. correct. hook.

Page 18No Page 16No Page 8No Page 16-18 No

Upper thread Lower thread The combination tension is too tension is too of needle size/ Wrong needle is tight. tight. thread size/fabric used. is incorrect.

Page 22No Page 22No Page 24No Page 8 No

Spool of thread is Lint is clinging to The combination not correctly Lower threading is the bottom of the of needle size/ installed. not correct. needle plate. thread size/fabric is incorrect.

Page 18No Page 16No Page 39No Page 24 No

Needle is bent or Threading is not not sharp. correct.

Page 8No Page 16-18 No

The combination of needle size/ thread size/fabric is incorrect.

Page 24 No

CONTACT YOUR LOCAL SERVICE CENTER

40 FABRIC DOES NEEDLE MACHINE IS MACHINE DOES NOT FEED BREAKS NOISY OR SLOW NOT START PROPERLY

Stitch length Lint is clinging to Power supply Needle is not dial is set at no the bottom of the plug is removed correctly inserted. feeding. needle plate. from outlet.

Page 13No Page 8 No Page 39 No Page 6 No

The combination Main power of needle size/ Inferior needle is Insufficient oiling. thread size/fabric used. switch is turned is incorrect. off.

Page 24No Page 8No Page 38No Page 7 No

The combination Inferior needle is of needle size/ Foot controller is used. thread size/fabric not used correctly. is incorrect.

Page 8No Page 24No Page 7 No

Fabric is pulled The bobbin excessively. Let the winding shaft is Thread is tangled. feed dogs move the slid toward the fabric. Do not pull bobbin presser. the fabric.

Page 18No No Page 15 No

Feed dogs are lowered.

Page 14 No

CONTACT YOUR LOCAL SERVICE CENTER

41 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Repacking the Machine Keep the carton and packing materials for future use. You may have to take or send the machine to be repaired or wish to move the machine. If you do not pack it properly, or do not use the right packing material, the machine could be damaged. Please follow the diagram below for repacking.

IMPORTANT ● This packing material is designed to prevent damage. Save this packing material if you need to move the machine or take or send this machine to be repaired.

42 INDEX

Numerics G 1-Step Automatic Buttonhole ...... 4, 5, 11, 12, 30 Gathering ...... 35 4-Step Buttonhole ...... 5, 12, 31 H A Hole for Extra Spool Pin ...... 21 Accessories ...... 5 Adjusting Buttonholes ...... 33 I Appliqués ...... 36 Arrowhead Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 29 Inserting the Needle ...... 7

B L Blind Hem Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 27 Leaf Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13 Bobbin Threading ...... 15, 20 Legs Stitch ...... 11 Bobbin Winder ...... 15 Lower Threading ...... 16 Bridging Stitch ...... 11 Buttonhole ...... 30, 31 M Buttonhole Fine Adjustment ...... 33 Buttonhole Sewing ...... 30, 31 Main Power and Sewing Light Switch ...... 2, 7 Maintenance ...... 38 C Making a Buttonhole ...... 30, 31 Monogramming and Embroidering ...... 36 Changing Sewing Direction ...... 25 Changing the Light Bulb ...... 38 N Changing the Presser Foot ...... 8 Chart of Sewing Fabrics, Needles and Needle Replacement ...... 7 Thread Combinations ...... 24 Needle Threader ...... 19 Checking the Needle ...... 8 Cleaning ...... 39 O Connecting Plugs ...... 6 Converting to Free-arm Style ...... 9 Oiling ...... 38 Overedge Stitching ...... 29 D P Darning ...... 35 Decorative Stitch ...... 11, 12, 30 Pattern Length ...... 11 Double Action Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 29 Pattern Selection Dial ...... 10 Drawing Up Lower Thread ...... 21 Pattern Width ...... 11 Drawing Up the Lower Thread ...... 21 Performance Checklist ...... 40 Drop Feed Lever ...... 14 Presser foot lever ...... 4 Presser Foot Replacement ...... 8 Principal Parts ...... 4 E Elastic Overlock Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 29 Q Elastic Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 28 Embroidering ...... 36 Quick Thread-setting System ...... 20

F R Feather Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 29 Rampart Stitch ...... 11 Feed Dogs Cleaning ...... 39 Recommended Widths and Lengths for Stitches ...... 11 Finishing Sewing ...... 26 Repacking the Machine ...... 42 Foot Controller ...... 7 Reverse Sewing Lever ...... 14 Foot Controller Connecting ...... 6 Foot Controller Operating ...... 7 Free-arm Sewing ...... 9 Free-arm Style ...... 9 43 ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

S Satin Stitch ...... 26 Scallop Stitch ...... 11, 12, 28 Sewing Buttons ...... 33 Sewing Light Bulb Replacement ...... 38 Sewing Light Switch ...... 2, 7 Sewing with a Twin Needle ...... 21 Shell Tuck Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 27 Shuttle Hook Removal ...... 39 Shuttle Race Cleaning ...... 39 Spool pin ...... 15, 18 Steadying the Machine ...... 9 Stitch Length Dial ...... 13 Stitch Width Dial ...... 14 Straight Stitch ...... 11, 12, 25, 34, 35 Stretch Blind Hem Stitch ...... 11, 12, 27 Stretch Overlock Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 29 Stretch Stitching ...... 13

T Tension of the Thread ...... 22 Thread Tension ...... 22 Threading Bobbin ...... 15 Threading Needle ...... 19 Topstitching ...... 26 Tree Stitch ...... 11 Triple Stretch Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 25 Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch ...... 11, 12, 13, 30 Twin Needle Sewing ...... 21

U Upper Tention Control Dial ...... 22 Upper Threading ...... 18 Using the Needle Threader ...... 19

W Winding the Bobbin ...... 15

Z Zigzag Presser Foot ...... 4, 5 Zigzag Stitch ...... 11, 12, 26, 33, 36 Zipper Foot ...... 5, 34 Zipper Insertion ...... 34

44 English 885-458 XC7363-021 Printed in China