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Home , Binding (sewing), Buttonhole, Collar stay, Thread (yarn)

USMA PD 9 Dec 2004 Superseding UBPD S-ll-80b 29 October 1993

UNITED STATED MILITARY ACADEMY PURCHASE DESCRIPTION 120904 FOR , MEN'S, TAPERED BODY, /, CADET GRAY

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for men's polyester/wool tropical long shirts.

1.2 Classification. The shirts shall be of one type in the sizes as specified (sec 6.2).

Type I - Long sleeve Type II - ** Deleted ** {see PD394}

Schedule of sizes - inches (Type I)

Neck Sleeve Length Sizes 29 31 33 35 37 39 13 x x x 13 – ½ X X X X 14 x x x x 14 – ½ X X X X X 15 x x x x x x 15 – ½ X X X X X X 16 x x x x x x 16 – ½ X X X X X 17 x x x x 17 – ½ X X X X 18 x x x x 18 – ½ X X X X 19 x x x x 19 – ½ X X X X 20 x x x x 20 – ½ X X X X 21 x x x x 22 X X X X

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USMA PD 120904

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL A-A50199 - , Polyester Core, or Polyester-Covered V-B-871 - , Hole, and Button, , () DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MILITARY MIL-C-43594 -Cloth, Interlining, Polyester MIL-T-43624 - Thread, Polyester, Spun MIL-T-44193 - Thread, Polyester, Textured MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible MIL-P-55010 - Plastic Sheet, Polyethylene Terephthalate

STANDARDS

FEDERAL FED-STD-191- Test Methods FED-STD-751- Stitches, Seams and Stitchings

MILITARY MIL-STD-105- Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-50943)

2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation.

2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specifies, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Method 88B (two photographs) -Photographic Comparative Rating of Single and Double Needle Seams

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USMA PD 120904

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Executive Director, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, Durham, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

D-204-Methods of Testing Sewing Threads

(Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187)

THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES

Standard Color Card of America

Department of Defense Standard Color Card for Sewing Threads

Department of Defense Standard Shades for

(Application for color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927. If color cards are not available from the Color Association, individual color samples may be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specified exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this purchase description may appear in the sample, in which case this purchase description shall govern.

3.2 Basic Material.

3.2.1 Type I. The basic material shall be Burlington Industries Uniform Fabric Company, style 971.

3.2.1.1 Color 12506 (USMA Ca det Gray)

3.2.1.2 Weave: Plain

3.2.1.3 Weight: 4.6 to 5.0 ounces per square yard

3.2.1.4 Fiber Content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool

3.2.1.5 Ply of Yard: 2 ply warp and filling

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USMA PD 120904

3.2.1.6 Breaking Strength: 100 pounds in Warp and 80 pounds in filling (weft)

3.2.1.7 Construction: minimum 60 ends per inch, 50 picks per inch.

3.3. Interlining.

3.3.1. The fusible interlining for , collar-stand, flaps, loops () and shall conform to type V, Style B, and Class 3 of MIL-CL4429. The color shall be charcoal or black. When tested as specified, the fusibles shall meet the initial and laundered bonding strength requirements specified in MIL-C-44296 when fused to the basic material. Note: As an alternate, a stitched-in non-fusible polyester fiber cloth interlining conforming to MIL-C-43594 may be used. The color black or charcoal.

3.4 Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, and button sewing shall be cotton-covered polyester thread, ticket Nos. 70, conforming to MIL-T-43548 or spun polyester 70, 2 or 3-ply, conforming to class 1 or 2 of MIL-T-43624.

3.4.1 Color and colorfastness. The color of the thread shall be dyed Black AA, C.A. 66043. The thread shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning, perspiration, and light, equal to or better that the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to laundering, perspiration, and light.

3.5 Buttons. Buttons shall conform to the type II; class K, style 25, 19-line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall be shade BT, Cable 62001.

3.6 Labels. The contractor shall furnish labels on each .

3.6.1 The Identification Label is to be approximately 2 ½” x 1 ¼” with the following format:

USMA, LSSO DIV. West Point, NY Name: Date: _

3.6.2. The Identification Label shall be positioned on the bottom left for Type I and bottom right Facing for Types II and IV.

3.6.2.1. An Instruction Label approximately 1 ¼” x 1 ¼” shall be positioned below the identification label; and contain the following information:

TYPE I: 55% Polyester/45% Wool Dry Clean Only

3.6.3. The Size Label shall be approximately ¾” x ¾” and positioned inside the shirt on the center back under the collar.

3.7. Collar Stays. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene, tere-phthalate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010. One end shall be rounded and the other end tapered with the point rounded.

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USMA PD 120904

3.8 Design. The type I shirt is long sleeve and shall have a tapered body dress style with stand up collars. The shirt has grown-on front facings, two patch with button-through flaps, closed style collar with shoulder straps. Only sleeve creases are allowed. The buttons shall be on the right side of the shirt.

3.9. Patterns. Standard Patterns to be used to working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, which shall not be altered in any way. The patterns provide a 3/8-inch allowance for safety-stitched seams and ¼ inch for making the collar, pocket flaps, and shoulder straps, and 3/8 inch for all other seams.

3.9.1. List of Parts. The component parts of the shirts shall be cut from material as specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated.

TABLE I. List of pattern parts

Material Nomenclature Cut Parts Basic Material Front 2 Back 1 2 Sleeve 2 Sleeve facing () 2 Sleeve (type II) 2 Cuff (type I) 4 1/ Collar 2 2/ Collarstand 2 Pocket 2 Pocket flap 4 Shoulder 4

Interlining Collar interlining 1 2/ Collarstand interlining 1 Pocket flap interlining 2 Cuff interlining 2 interlining 2

1/ When cuff setting operations 22.a. and b. are used, add 1/8 inch to the top cuff and cuff interlining patterns. 2/ Same pattern piece. 3/ When automatic crease band method is used, cut two collarstand interlinings.

3.10. End item seam appearance, bond strength of fusibles and adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays.

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USMA PD 120904

3.10.1 Bond strength of fusibles. After the shirt has been laundered 5 times, the shirt shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no showing of the "strike-through" of the adhesive after fusing.

3.1 0.3. Adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays. After the shirt has been laundered 5 times, the shirt shall show no delamination or curling of the ultrasonically fused collar stays. There shall be no delamination of any fused points. (see 6.6 for recommended ultrasonic welding conditions.)

3.11. Construction.

3.11.1. Stitches, seams and stitching. , seam and stitching types specified in table II shall conform to FED-STD-751. Where two or more seam or stitch types are given for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the shirt. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, , puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained (see 6.), so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The gage of the safety stitch seams shall be ¼ inch. The guides and knives in the safety stitch machines shall be set to only the raveled ends of the fabric. The trimming shall not exceed l/16 inch. The edge and topstitching shall be uniformly gaged. Seams required to be worked out, that have a depth between the fold of 1/16 inch or more shall be considered defect.

3.11.2. Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitched per inch shall be as specified in table II.

3.11.3. Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than ¼ inch. Ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than ½ inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than ½ inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on 401 stitch types may be repaired using 301-stitch type.

3.11.4. Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type and the finished cut length shall be ½ toit 6 9/16 inch long. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. When a purl-type is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the shirt. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8 inch of the . Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric, prior to stitching the buttonholes are prohibited.

3.12. Manufacturing operations requirements. The shirts shall be made in accordance with operation requirements specified in table II. Any additional basting or holding stitches used to facilitate manufacture are permissible provided the thread does not show on the finished shirt.

3.12.1. Marking. The parts of the shirt shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

(a) Metal fastening devices. (b) Sew-on type tickets. (c) Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.

3.12.2. Fusing. If used, a single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer or basic material, on an electric dry heated conveyor or flathead type fusing press which has the capability of controlling a n d retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature within an 8-hour period. For optimum results with a particular fusible style and press used, setting should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible interlining.

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USMA PD 120904

3.12.3. Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in table II, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required size, dimensions, and configurations. When a government finished shaper pattern is furnished, caution shall be taken to assure the component conforms to that pattern. Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated apparel equipment.

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING / MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER Cutting.

a. Cut shirts in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show size, directional lines, marks, and notches for proper assembly. When utilizing the edge for cutting the fronts, the selvage edge shall be a match to the basic fabric. Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction. When fronts of shirts are cut from the uneven edge of the ay, they shall be blocked out and relaid so that the width of the facings shall be exactly as the pattern. The use of drill holes are prohibited, except for the pen pocket and sewn labels, providing the outer fabrics cover the drill holes and labels respectively, otherwise drill holes shall be considered to be

holes in the fabric.

b. Cut component parts from same piece of the basic material, except the undercollar, pen pocket, the under parts of the pocket flaps, shoulder loops, stay holder, collarstands, cuffs, collar leaf, and yoke which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the other parts. The binding for sleeve opening may be cut of sufficient length and width to meet the requirements of operation 1 5. The binding may be put rolls.

c. Cut the polyester fiber interlinings and the fusible interlinings in accordance with directional lines on patterns.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 2. Replacement of defective components.

a. During the spreading, cutting and manufacturing process, components having material defects pr damages that are classified as defects shall be removed from production and replaced with I non-defective and properly matched parts.

3. Component marking. a. Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the shirt except those parts cut from ends to insure

correct size, proper assembly, and a uniform shade throughout the shirt.

b. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil will be acceptable provided the numbers do not show through the outside of the shirts and the numbers are covered by the .

4. Labeling.

a. Center size marking on the top collar ¼ inch off center tolerance, so that on the finished shirt the bottom of the marking will not be less than ¼ inch or more that ½ inch from the seam joining the collar stand to neck.

b. Position the Instruction Label on the bottom left facing, with the bottom of label 2 + ½ inches from bottom of finished shirt and stitch on all 301 LSbj-1 8-14 70-2 70-2 four sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing. c. Position and stitch the Identification Label as in "b" above except it shall be places on 301 LSbj-1 8-14 70-2 70-2 the left front.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHIN BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER G TYPE LOOPER 5. Make cuffs

Finished appearance. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in

the fabric. The cuffs shall finish 2 ½ ± 1/8 inches wide and have rounded comers.

a. Position interlining to inside of outer ply of SSbc-1 1 0-14 70-2 70-2 cuff fold top edge of the outer ply of cuff over 301 or 401 10-14 and even with the interlining and stitch ¼ to SSbc-1 70-2 80-2 5/16 inch from folded edge. b. Join the plies of the cuff. Turn, force out edges and single stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge. The edge stitching shall finish ½± 1/8 301 or SSe-2(a) 1 0-14 70-2 70-2 inch from top edge of finished cuff. The 401 and SSe-2(a) 10-14 70-2 80-2 edge stitching may taper to edge of cuff at 301 SSe-2(b) 1 0-14 70-2 70-2 ends of stitching and need not be backstitched. c. Make horizontal buttonhole in center of each cuff (¼ inch off center tolerance 42-52 per Whip or buttonhole permitted) with the inside cut edge of the 304 purl types including 70-2 70-2 buttonhole ½ ± 1/8 inch from front edge tack (see 3.11.4). d. Press cuffs on a hothead-pressing machine (see operation 25).

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 6. Make Collar. 1 a. Position fusible interlining to top collar /16 inch from top and side edges and fuse (see 3.3.). (1) Un-slotted holder construction.

(a) Position stay holder to undercollar with side and bottom edges even and stitch 301 SSa-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 along bottom edges to hold stay holder in place.

(b) Form a tunnel for the collar stays by stitching the stay holder to undercollar 7 with two rows of stitching /16 to ½ inch apart according to makes on pattern. 301 SSv-2 10-14 70-2 70-2 The collar points shall be aligned with the center of the two rows of stitching and the stitching shall extend to the raw edges.

(c) Insert collar stays into the tunnel so tapered 1/16 inches from top edge 301 or SSv-1 10-14 70-2 stitching when stitched as specified in 70-2 101 SSv-1 6-8 70-2 operation 6.d. Stitch or tack tunnel at bottom of stay holder. -or- (2) Unslotted collar stay ultrasonically fused

construction.

(a) Position collar stays according to marks on pattern so tapered ends will abut the top

edge stitching when stitched as specified in operation 6.

(b) Ultrasonically fuse the collar stays to the undercollar with two rows of fusing points the full length of the stay. Each row shall contain 9 to 11 fusing points per inch and

should not cause the collar stay to curl either lengthwise or widthwise. (see 6.6 for recommended ultrasonic welding conditions.)

-or-

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 6. Make Collar (cont'd) (3) Slotted collar stay stitched construction.

(a) Position collar stays according to marks on pattern so tapered ends are 1/16 inches

away from top edge stitching when stitched as specified in operation 6.d. (b) Stitch collar stays to the under collar with a 1-1/4 to 1-½ inches long tack. The stitching shall me straddle the center bar of 101 20-4 70-2 the stay 1- and not penetrate the plastic material. the collar and undercollar face to face, b. With 301 or SSe-2(a) 10-14 70-2 70-2 stitch around side and top edges. 401 SSe-2(a) 10-14 70-2 100-2

c. Trim, turn, work out edges and points, and press

collar trim points on a collar-pointing machine.

d. Edge stitch top and sides of collar 1 /16 to 1/8 301 SSe-2(b) 10-14 70-2 70-2 inch from edge. tack

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 7. Make collarstand and attach collar.

a. Fuse collarstand interlining to top collarstand. Fold back the bottom edge of under collarstand 301 SSa-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 3/16 to ¼ inch and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

b. Place collar between the fused top collar and under collarstand as indicated by notches on pattern and stitch from end to end along top edge of collarstand, 3/16 to ¼ inch from edge. Turn top 301 or SSq(a) 10-14 70-2 70-2 401 and SSq(a) 10-14 70-2 100-2 and undercollar stand to finished position and 301 SSq(b) 10-14 70-2 70-2 raise stitch 1/16 to 3/32 inch from turned edge. The stitching may continue around the ends of the collarstand (see operation 20.b.).

Press collar and collarstand with a heated iron at c. a permanent press (moderate) setting.

d. Automatic creaseband construction (when used}. Operations 7.a. and 7.b. may be accomplished with an automatic creaseband machine which folds the edges of the collarstands and interlinings simultaneously and are held in place by the activated adhesive of the fusible interlining.

e. Automatic Profile stitch machine construction (when used). Operation 7.b. may be accomplished with an automatic profile stitch machine, which places the collar between the previously creased and tacked top and under collarstands and stitches along the top edge of the collarstand 1/16 inch from edge.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 8. Make shoulder straps. Finished appearance. The shoulder straps shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement. The buttonholes shall be clean cut and

correctly positioned. The shoulder straps shall measure finished 2 ± 1/8 inches wide at the armhole seam tapering to a width of 1–½ ± 1/8 inches at pointed end. a. Position fusible interlining to top shoulder strap and fuse. Position the shoulder straps face 301 or SSe-2(a) 10-14 70-2 70-2 to face with fused strap on top and stitch the 401 SSe-2(a) 10-14 70-2 100-2 top and under strap around all edges except armhole end. b. Turn strap, work out points and edges, and edge stitch along sides and point, 1/16 to 1/8 301 SSe-2(b) 10-14 70-2 70-2 inch from edge. c. Make a horizontal buttonhole in the center of 42-52 per 70-2 70-2 each strap, 1/8 inch off center tolerance; with Whip or buttonhole 304 70-2 100-2 the inside cut edge of the buttonhole 3/8 to ½ purl types including 70-2 70-2 inchfrom point of strap (see 3.1 1.4). tack

d. Press shoulder straps with a hot-head pressing

machine (see operation 25).

Make pocket flaps. 9. a. Position fusible to top flap and fuse. Positions the pockets flaps face to face and seam the flaps 301 or 401 SSe-2(a) 10-14 70-2 70-2 along the bottom and sides turn, work out points and SSe-2(a) 10-14 70-2 100-2 and edge stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from side and 301 SSe-2(a) 10-14 70-2 70-2 bottom edges.

b. Make one vertical buttonhole in the center of 42-52 per each flap (1/8 inch off center tolerance) with Whip or buttonhole 304 70-2 70-2 the lower inside edge 3/8 to ½ inch from purl types including bottom edge of flap (see 3.11.4). tack

c. Press pocket flaps with a hot head pressing

machine.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 10. breast pocket.

Fold under top edge of pocket as indicated by pattern marks with the raw edge turned under ¼ inch and stitch 1/16 inch from the folded edge. Then hem shall 301 or Efb-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 finish 1-¼ ± 1/8 inches wide. 401 Efb-1 10-14 70-2 100-2

-or-

Overedge stitch top raw edge of pocket and turn top of pocket down to form hem. The hem shall finish 502 or Efd-1 10-14 100-2 100-2 1-¼ ± 1/8 inches wide. 503 Efd-1 10-14 100-2 100-2

Make fronts.

11. If selvage is cut or frayed, overedge back edge of facing.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 12. Make and set pen pocket. a. Fold under top edge of pen pocket and indicated by pattern marks with the raw edge turned under ¼ inch and stitch 1/16 inch from folded edge. The 301 or EFb-1 10-14 70-2 70-2

hem shall finish 1 ± ¼ inches wide. 401 EFb-1 10-14 70-2 100-2

-or- Overedge stitch top raw edge of pocket and turn 502 or EFd-1 10-14 100-2 100-2 top of pocket down to form hem. The hem shall 503 EFd-1 10-14 100-2 100-2 finish 1-¼ + ¼ inches wide.

b. Turn in the side edges of the pen pocket 3/8 inch, and stitch to the left front of the shirts as indicated on the pattern. The finished pen pocket shall be 301 LSd-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 2-¼ ± 1/8 inches wide. (NOTE: The bottom of pocket shall not be stitched.)

c. Form two compartments with a row of vertical stitching at the center ± 1/8 inch through the shirt 301 SSv-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 front from the top to bottom of pocket. 13. Attach pocket and flaps. Finished appearance. The pocket shall be parallel to the front edge of shirt. The pocket depth at center for all

sizes shall finish 5-7/8 ± 3/16 inches, and the finished width shall be 5±3/16 inches wide for all sizes.

a. The seam allowance of the corners of the type II shirt mitered pockets shall be notched. The notches shall not extend into the line of 301 0Sf 10-14 70-2 70-2 stitching. For automatic pocket setting machines, the seam allowance shall be ½ ± inches.

b. Stitch pockets on fronts, as indicated by marks on patterns, 1/16 to 1/8 from edge, continuing stitching 1/4 to 3/8 inch across top of pockets 301 0Sf-1 and 10-14 70-2 70-2

and ½ inch diagonally down to the line of 1/16 to 301 SSv-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 l/8 inch stitching. The pockets may be pre- creased.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 13. Attach pockets and flaps. (cont'd) c. Press right and left fronts with a hot head

pressing machine (see operation 25).

d. Position the raw edge of the flap on the line with marks on the pattern and stitch, 1/8 to 3/16 from raw edge. Turn down flap and raise stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from turned edge with the ends of the flap tacked. Pockets and flaps shall 301 LSb1-2 10-14 70-2 70-2 be in parallel alignment with each other and front edge of shirt and ends of pocket openings shall be covered by flap. The distance between the top of pocket and the top of folded flap edge on the finished shirt shall be ¾ ± 1 inch.

14. Attach yoke. Finished appearance. The finished yoke shall be without twists or puckers. There shall be no fullness between the plies of material.

a. Position the back of the shirt between the two plies of yoke and with the back and yoke edged even, stitch all plies together.

b. Press back and yoke, with the yoke plies and back in the finished full-length position, smooth, flat and even along the stitching with a heated iron at a permanent press (moderate) setting.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER

15. Make sleeve openings (type I) Finished appearance. The binding of the sleeve opening shall be uniform in width and shall finish

smooth and flat. Sleeve openings shall measure 5-½ ± ½ inches long exclusive of cuff.

a. Turn raw edges of the binding to the inside insert 301 or BSc-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 edges of sleeve opening 1/4 ± 1/16 inch into 401 BSc-1 10-14 70-2 100-2

binding and seam. The binding shall finish ½ + 1/8 inch wide. b. Turn binding to inside of sleeve and stitch or 301 or 10-14 70-2 70-2 bartack through binding and sleeve 1/8 to l/4 inch bartack 28 per 70-2 70-2 or bartack below top of opening. An automatic straight tack 301 28 per tack may be used. If other than a bartack is used, it shall extend the full width of the binding.

-or- Turn binding to inside of sleeve and stitch or 301 or 10-14 70-2 70-2 bartack diagonally through binding only. An bartack 28 per 70-2 70-2 or bartack bartack automatic straight tack may be used. If 301 28 per tack 70-2 70-2 other or bartack than a bartack is used, it shall extend the full width of the binding.

16. Join shoulder seams. Position fronts between the two plies of yoke and 301 or SSa-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 with front and yoke edges even, stitch all plies 401 SSa-1 10-14 70-2 100-2

together. The stitching shall not show on the finished shirt

17. Set shoulder straps.

a. Position shoulder strap so point of strap is 1/4 + 301 or SSa-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 1/8 inch back of shoulder seam, 3/8 + 1/8 inch 401 SSa-1 10-14 70-2 100-2 from collar joining finished seam with front edge of strap at armhole opening 1 ± 1/8 inch forward of shoulder seam. Stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge of armhole opening and trim excess even with opening. The excess of the shoulder strap may be trimmed.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/L MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE OOPER 18. Set . Set sleeve to armhole and join with safety stitch 100-2 and 515 or 70-2 100-2 catching the raw edge of the shoulder loop in the 516 or SSa-2 10-14 (chain) (over- seaming. 519 100-2 edge) 19. Join side and underarm seams. Safety stitch side and sleeve seams in a continuous 515 or 70-2 100-2 and 100-2 and operation. Armhole seam shall meet underarm 516 or SSa-2 10-14 (chain) (over- seam, ¼ inch tolerance. 519 100-2 edge)

20. Join collar to shirt. Finished appearance shall be carefully joined to the shirt, with notched matching, without distorting the stand or collar. Collar ends shall not be uneven in length by more than 1/8 inch. In stitching down

collarstand, the stitching shall be not more than 1/8 inch on or off the opposite stand. Collar leafs shall finish 3-1/8 ± 1/8 inches in length.

a. Turn in the bottom edge of the top collarstand 301 Efa-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 and interlining and stitch to shirt l/16 to 1/8

inch from turned edge.

-or-

Stitch top collarstand and interlining to inside of 301 LScf-2(a) 10-14 70-2 70-2 shirt. The right and left facing folded edges

shall finish even with ends of collarstand.

b. With seam allowance turned toward stand, stitch 301 LScf-2(a) 10-14 70-2 70-2 down under collarstand 1/16 to 1/7 inch from turned edge through stand and shirt, continue the (over-

stitching around the ends of collarstand if not edge) previously stitched (see operation 7.b.)

-or-

Collar may be attached in one operation. The 301 LScf-2(a) 10-14 70-2 70-2 stitch may not be more than 1/8 inch from edge.

21. Hem shirt bottom. Hem bottom of shirt, catching facings in hem. The 301 EFb-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 hem shall finish 1/8 to 5/16 inches wide. The side (over- seams shall be turned in the same direction as edge) sleeve .

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 22. Join cuff to sleeves (type I). a. (See 1/ to table I). Seam the inside cuff to bottom 301 or LScf-2(a) 10-14 70-2 70-2 of sleeve on the underside, with the bound edge 401 LScf-2(a) 10-14 70-2 100-2 of the sleeve opening turned to inside at buttonhole end of cuff and caught in stitching.

b. Stitch top outerside of cuff interlining to the 301 LScf-2(b) 10-14 70-2 70-2 bottom of sleeve on the outside 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge. The stitching on the opposite side shall finish on the cuff.

-or-

Cuffs may be attached in one operation providing 301 LSe-1 10-14 70-2 70-2 the finished appearance is the same as specified in "a" and "b" above, and the ends or the row of

stitching are backtacked or crossed with another line of stitching.

23. Make buttonholes. a. Make six vertical button holes in the left front Button Whip or 42-52 per 70-2 70-2 of shirt through the facing as indicated by marks hole purl type buttonhole on positioned ¾ + 1/16 inch from front edge including (3.11.4). tack

b. Make one horizontal buttonhole in the left front Button Whip or 42-52 per 70-2 70-2 of shirt in the center of collarstand with front hole purl type buttonhole inside cut edge of buttonhole ¾ + 1/16 from including front edge of shirt. tack

24. Clean shirts. a. Before folding and packaging, shirts must have all thread ends trimmed and removed, be free of all residual fiber particles, lint and dust, or other foreign substances, and spots and stains removed.

b. Remove all shade tickets.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/ MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE LOOPER 25. Pressing. a. As an option to operations 13.c and 14.b a hot head pressing machine capable of pressing the

entire shirt after fabrication may be used.

b. Press the bottom of shirt, side seams, sleeve hems and underarm seams and cuffs on a hot head pressing machine or with a heated iron at a permanent press (moderate) setting.

NOTE: The use of the steam inflated bag type of pressing machine is prohibited. The hot head pressing machine is cited in operations 6.a., 9.c., 13.c., and 14.b. shall be equipped

with controls for accurate temperature (350° to 370° F), time (minimum 10 seconds) and pressure (100 psi).

26. Sew on buttons.

Finished appearance. The buttons shall be aligned and securely sewn in the center of the buttonholes ± 1/16 inch in collarstand, front of shirt, shoulder loops, flaps, and cuffs. Collar ends shall be centered equidistant from center of shirt front and shall open

not less than 5/8 inch or more than 7/8 inch when collar is buttoned.

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USMA PD 120904

SEAM AND THREAD TABLE II STITCH STITCHES NO. STITCHING BOBBIN/L MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS TYPE PER INCH NEEDLE COVER TYPE OOPER 26. Sew on buttons. (cont'd) a. Sew one button on right end of collarstand so 301 14-16 per 70-2 70-2 that when collar is buttoned, center of button or button 101 14-16 per shall be in line with vertical buttonholes on button front.

b. Sew six buttons on right shirt front ¾ ± 1/16 301 14-16 per 70-2 70-2 inch from the front edge through the front or button 101 14-16 per facing. button

c. (Type 1). Sew one button on the outside of each 301 14-16 per 70-2 70-2 cuff at the back end, to correspond with the or button 101 14-16 per buttonhole, with the center of the button 1/2 to 5/8 button inch from edge.

d. Sew one button on each shoulder seam 301 14-16 per 70-2 70-2 allowance through yoke to correspond with the or button 101 14-16 per buttonhole on the shoulder loop. The shoulder button loops shall lay smooth and flat without puckers or twists when they are buttoned.

e. Sew one button on each breast pocket through 301 14-16 per 70-2 70-2 or button hem to correspond with flap buttonhole. 101 14-16 per button

27. Touch-up pressing and buttoning shirt.

a. When required, touch-up fronts, backs, cuffs, and collars, before folding for packaging with

heated iron at a permanent press setting.

b. Button shirt fully.

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USMA PD 120904

3.13 Finished measurements. The finished measurements shall conform to table.

TABLE III. Finished measurements (inches).

Size Neck ½ ½ Waist Back Sleeve Collar Size 1/ Chest 2/ Waist 3/ Length 4/ Length 5/ Length 6/ Opening 13 13 ½ 17 ½ 14 ½ 16 31 ½ inch over 3/8 to ¾ inch 13 ½ 14 18 ½ 15 ½ 16 ¼ 31 ¼ marked size (applicable 14 14½ 19 ½ 16 ½ 16 ½ 31 ½ (applicable to all sizes) 14 ½ 15 20 ½ 17 ½ 16 ¾ 31 ¾ to all sizes) 15 15 ½ 21 ½ 18 ½ 17 32 15 ½ 16 22 ½ 19 ½ 17 ¼ 32 ¼ 16 16 ½ 23 ½ 20 ½ 17 ½ 32 ½ 16 ½ 17 24 ½ 21 ½ 17 ¾ 32 ¾ 17 17 ½ 25 ½ 22 ½ 18 33 17 ½ 18 26 ½ 23 ½ 18 ¼ 33 ¼ 18 18 ½ 27 ½ 24 ½ 18 ½ 33 ½ 18 ½ 19 28 ½ 25 ½ 18 ¾ 33 ¾ 19 19 ½ 29 ½ 26 ½ 19 34 19 ½ 20 30 ½ 27 ½ 19 ¼ 34 ¼ 20 20 ½ 31 ½ 28 ½ 19 ½ 34 ½ 20 ½ 21 32 ½ 29 ½ 19 ¾ 34 ¾ 21 21 ½ 33 ½ 30 ½ 20 35 22 22 ½ 35 ½ 32 ½ 20 ½ 35 ½

Tolerance + 1/8 + 3/8 + 3/8 + ¼ + ½, ¼ + ¼

1/ Neck measurement taken from center of collar button to front cut-end of buttonhole, with collar in flat position.

2/ Chest measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge at base of armhole with shirt buttoned (see A of figures 1 and 2).

3/ Waist measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge at waist.

4/ To locate waist for 1/2 waist measurement, measure from center back collar setting seam to waist length (see D of figures 1 and 2).

5/ Back length measurement taken at center back from collar setting seam to bottom edge of shirt (see B of figures 1 and 2).

6/ Sleeve length measurement taken from center back at collarstand seam, diagonally across back along sleeve, to the center bottom edge of cuff (see C of figures I and 2).

7/ Collar end opening measurement shall be taken with the shirt buttoned, placed on a flat surface and without distorting collar. Measure across collar from ends of collar at joining seam.

3.14. Workmanship. The finished shirts shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description. 22

USMA PD 120904

4 QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1.1 Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the purchase description where such inspections are deemed necess.ary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

5 PACKAGING

5.1. Preservation. Preservation shall be Commercial.

5.1.1 Commercial preservation. The shirts shall be preserved in accordance with MIL-STD-1188.

5.2 Packing. Packing shall be commercial.

5.2.1 Commercial packing. Shirts, preserved as specified in 5.1, shall be packed in accordance with MIL- STD-1188 '

5.3. Bar Code labels.

5.3.1. Individual Shirt packages shall be labeled with a bar code label corresponding to the National Stock Number and size of the shirt contained therein.

5.3.2. Bar Code label Characteristics, USMA Cadet Shirts as follows:

5.3.2.1. 3 of 9 format

5.3.2.2. Be affixed to each shirt package so that it can be read without opening the package.

5.3.2.3. Remain intact while warehoused.

5.3.2.4. Overall dimensions of the label approximately: 2 ½” x 3 ½” (+1”/ -¼” ).

5.3.2.5. Font used for printing should be providing capitalized letters or numbers large enough to be easily read but not massive. Suggested font size no less than 1/8" tall as typically found using "Arial" 12 Bold", or "Times New Roman 14 Bold".

5.3.2.6. Each Bar Code Label should contain the following:

5.3.2.6.1. BARCODE (with both a start and stop character of*)

5.3.2.6.2. NATIONAL STOCK NUMBER

5.3.2.6.3. DESCRIPTION

5.3.2.6.3 SIZE (as applicable)

23

USMA PD 120904

5.3.2.6.5 The 3 of 9 format Bar Code on each label shall be no less than ½” tall and may be taller.

5.4. Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract, unit packs and shipping containers shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-1188.

5.4.1. Cartons containing multiple individual shirt packages shall be labeled with the same Bar Code Label on individual the shirt packages contained therein.

5.4.2. Cartons shall contain only one Type of one Size shirt

5.4.3. Cartons shall be marked in a consistent location (carton to carton) with the quantity of shirts contained therein.

5.4.4 Bar Code Labels for cartons shall be applied in an obvious and consistent location on the same side of each carton as the Quantity Label on cartons containing multiple individual shirt packages.

6. CARTONS

6.1. Cartons shall be sturdy.

6.1.1. Cartons shall be strong enough where three cartons filled to commercial capacity of shirts can be stacked on top of each other (three cartons high) where their weight will not collapse or deform the bottom carton in storage and reasonable handling in freight.

7. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

7.1. Intended use. The long sleeve shirts are intended for wear by male cadets at the United States Military Academy.

7.2. Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description.

b. Type and size required (see 1.2).

c. Material required (see 3.2).

7.3. Samples. For access to samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

7.4. Seam appearance. In order to avoid puckering and to produce the flattest seams possible, consideration must be given to the following:

a. The needles used for all seams should be as fine as possible consistent with the size or diameter of the thread used.

24

USMA PD 120904 b. The throat plate hole should be no larger than necessary to permit free entry of the needle and to prevent flagging.

c. The finest feed (approximately 18 teeth) possible should be used with a pressure foot to exactly match the shape and size of the feed. The face of the pressure foot (underside next to the feed on the machine) should be highly polished to eliminate roughness and reduce drag. Diamond shaped feed teeth have been used quite successfully.

d. The lightest foot pressure should be used to prevent stretching of the top ply of material.

e. In the safety stitch machine (515, 516, and 519), the upper and lower trimming knives should be kept at peak sharpness to prevent "dragging" of the edge of the fabric.

f. In stitch type 301 sewing, the bobbin tension should be adjusted to that when a full bobbin is placed in the bobbin case and threaded through the tension spring, the bobbin and case shall ride slowly down the thread when the free end of the thread is held in the vertical position. Needle tension should be adjusted after the bobbin tension to provide slightly more needle thread than bobbin thread in the stitch.

g. When sewing the stitch type 401 (including the seaming row of the safety stitches), the thread ratio (needle and looper) should be adjusted to produce a stitch with 60 to 70 percent needle thread, and both needle and looper thread tension shall be held to the minimum.

h. Thread take-up mechanism should be set on all machines to relieve as much tension as possible when forming the stitch. All thread contacts should be well polished and free of burrs, cuts and rough spots.

7.5. Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated creaseband construction is the creases and tack process from Facemate Corporation.

7.6. Ultrasonic welding conditions. The following Ultrasonic welding conditions have been found to provide welds meeting the requirements of this document. These limits are furnished for guidance only. For optimum results with a particular ultrasonic machine used, specific machine settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the ultrasonic equipment

Minimum Maximum Pressure, psi 35.0 40.0 Weld time, seconds 0.2 0.3 Down speed, inches/minute 10.0 12.0 Trigger pressure, pounds 8.0 10.0 Hold time, seconds 0.0 0.05

Custodian: Preparing activity: USMA, LSSO USMA, LSSO, CUF

25