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USMA PD 9 Dec 2004 Superseding UBPD S-Ll-80B 29 October 1993

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USMA PD 9 Dec 2004 Superseding UBPD S-Ll-80B 29 October 1993 USMA PD 9 Dec 2004 Superseding UBPD S-ll-80b 29 October 1993 UNITED STATED MILITARY ACADEMY PURCHASE DESCRIPTION 120904 FOR SHIRTS, MEN'S, TAPERED BODY, POLYESTER/WOOL, CADET GRAY 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for men's polyester/wool tropical long sleeve shirts. 1.2 Classification. The shirts shall be of one type in the sizes as specified (sec 6.2). Type I - Long sleeve Type II - ** Deleted ** {see PD394} Schedule of sizes - inches (Type I) Neck Sleeve Length Sizes 29 31 33 35 37 39 13 x x x 13 – ½ X X X X 14 x x x x 14 – ½ X X X X X 15 x x x x x x 15 – ½ X X X X X X 16 x x x x x x 16 – ½ X X X X X 17 x x x x 17 – ½ X X X X 18 x x x x 18 – ½ X X X X 19 x x x x 19 – ½ X X X X 20 x x x x 20 – ½ X X X X 21 x x x x 22 X X X X 1 USMA PD 120904 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MILITARY MIL-C-43594 -Cloth, Interlining, Polyester MIL-T-43624 - Thread, Polyester, Spun MIL-T-44193 - Thread, Polyester, Textured MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible MIL-P-55010 - Plastic Sheet, Polyethylene Terephthalate STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191- Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751- Stitches, Seams and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105- Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-50943) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specifies, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Method 88B (two photographs) -Photographic Comparative Rating of Single and Double Needle Seams 2 USMA PD 120904 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Executive Director, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, Durham, NC 27709-2215.) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) D-204-Methods of Testing Sewing Threads (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187) THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Standard Color Card of America Department of Defense Standard Color Card for Sewing Threads Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons (Application for color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927. If color cards are not available from the Color Association, individual color samples may be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specified exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this purchase description may appear in the sample, in which case this purchase description shall govern. 3.2 Basic Material. 3.2.1 Type I. The basic material shall be Burlington Industries Uniform Fabric Company, style 971. 3.2.1.1 Color 12506 (USMA Ca det Gray) 3.2.1.2 Weave: Plain 3.2.1.3 Weight: 4.6 to 5.0 ounces per square yard 3.2.1.4 Fiber Content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool 3.2.1.5 Ply of Yard: 2 ply warp and filling 3 USMA PD 120904 3.2.1.6 Breaking Strength: 100 pounds in Warp and 80 pounds in filling (weft) 3.2.1.7 Construction: minimum 60 ends per inch, 50 picks per inch. 3.3. Interlining. 3.3.1. The fusible interlining for collar, collar-stand, pocket flaps, loops (straps) and cuff shall conform to type V, Style B, and Class 3 of MIL-CL4429. The color shall be charcoal or black. When tested as specified, the fusibles shall meet the initial and laundered bonding strength requirements specified in MIL-C-44296 when fused to the basic material. Note: As an alternate, a stitched-in non-fusible polyester fiber cloth interlining conforming to MIL-C-43594 may be used. The color black or charcoal. 3.4 Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes and button sewing shall be cotton-covered polyester thread, ticket Nos. 70, conforming to MIL-T-43548 or spun polyester 70, 2 or 3-ply, conforming to class 1 or 2 of MIL-T-43624. 3.4.1 Color and colorfastness. The color of the thread shall be dyed Black AA, C.A. 66043. The thread shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning, perspiration, and light, equal to or better that the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to laundering, perspiration, and light. 3.5 Buttons. Buttons shall conform to the type II; class K, style 25, 19-line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall be shade BT, Cable 62001. 3.6 Labels. The contractor shall furnish labels on each shirt. 3.6.1 The Identification Label is to be approximately 2 ½” x 1 ¼” with the following format: USMA, LSSO DIV. West Point, NY Name: Date: _ 3.6.2. The Identification Label shall be positioned on the bottom left Facing for Type I and bottom right Facing for Types II and IV. 3.6.2.1. An Instruction Label approximately 1 ¼” x 1 ¼” shall be positioned below the identification label; and contain the following information: TYPE I: 55% Polyester/45% Wool Dry Clean Only 3.6.3. The Size Label shall be approximately ¾” x ¾” and positioned inside the shirt on the center back under the collar. 3.7. Collar Stays. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene, tere-phthalate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010. One end shall be rounded and the other end tapered with the point rounded. 4 USMA PD 120904 3.8 Design. The type I shirt is long sleeve and shall have a tapered body dress style with stand up collars. The shirt has grown-on front facings, two patch pockets with button-through flaps, closed style collar with shoulder straps. Only sleeve creases are allowed. The buttons shall be on the right side of the shirt. 3.9. Patterns. Standard Patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, which shall not be altered in any way. The patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for safety-stitched seams and ¼ inch for making the collar, pocket flaps, and shoulder straps, and 3/8 inch for all other seams. 3.9.1. List of Pattern Parts. The component parts of the shirts shall be cut from material as specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated. TABLE I. List of pattern parts Material Nomenclature Cut Parts Basic Material Front 2 Back 1 Yoke 2 Sleeve 2 Sleeve facing (binding) 2 Sleeve placket (type II) 2 Cuff (type I) 4 1/ Collar 2 2/ Collarstand 2 Pocket 2 Pocket flap 4 Shoulder strap 4 Interlining Collar interlining 1 2/ Collarstand interlining 1 Pocket flap interlining 2 Cuff interlining 2 Shoulder strap interlining 2 1/ When cuff setting operations 22.a. and b. are used, add 1/8 inch to the top cuff and cuff interlining patterns. 2/ Same pattern piece. 3/ When automatic crease band method is used, cut two collarstand interlinings. 3.10. End item seam appearance, bond strength of fusibles and adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays. 5 USMA PD 120904 3.10.1 Bond strength of fusibles. After the shirt has been laundered 5 times, the shirt shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no showing of the "strike-through" of the adhesive after fusing. 3.1 0.3. Adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays. After the shirt has been laundered 5 times, the shirt shall show no delamination or curling of the ultrasonically fused collar stays. There shall be no delamination of any fused points.
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