N55LH1125 2/13/06 7:56 PM Page 2

THE GET

IN- STOREDapper’s Delight 1. Tom Kalenderian, the men’s honcho at Barneys New York, can FOR THE BARNEYS EXECUTIVE TOM KALENDERIAN, identify a seven-centimeter tie at A SNAPPY MAN IS A HAPPY MAN. 20 paces and a hand-stitched buttonhole at 40. He can (and will) SANDRA BALLENTINE TAKES NOTES. wax poetic on the toe-box construction of a custom shoe. And don’t get him started on Neapolitan . Having worked for 27 years 1 7. Barneys men aren’t all from for the store that introduced Armani the same cloth, and neither are their to America, he has a soft spot for shirts. Hamilton shirts are cut and Italian tailoring: ‘‘Italians have a sewn by hand according to each knack for blending their respect for customer’s personal paper . heritage with modern simplicity.’’ The of this $265 - Here he wears a made-to-measure down shirt have vertical stripes. jacket by Gianluca Isaia ($1,995) and a shirt ($350) and tie ($105) 8. Kalenderian happened upon from Battistoni, a label he describes the antique jeweler and -link as ‘‘part of the Italian businessman’s specialist Longmire in London of armor.’’ more than 20 years ago, and he still collaborates with the company. 2. Kalenderian’s love affair with ‘‘Their experience with vintage Italy isn’t limited to haberdashery. jewelry gives them the credibility He collects vintage Murano glass 2 and expertise to create amazing in bulk. ‘‘Even the smallest piece new cuff links.’’ He’d save these captures the mood of midcentury $11,500 white gold and sapphire modernism.’’ He bought a lamp like stirrups for a black-tie event. 3 9. This tie, $215, from Lanvin’s 15 Faubourg collection of handmade suits, shirts and ties (launched at Barneys this year), isn’t just any old piece of neckwear. 4 ‘‘It’s a beautifully constructed, bells- and-whistles, full seven-fold tie.’’ this ($1,950) at the End of History, 1 10. Fred Pressman, 548 ⁄2 Hudson Street. Barneys’s second-generation 3. He also craves objects from patriarch, brought the British the Milan studio of the late Piero Kilgour, French & Stanbury to Fornasetti. ‘‘I never tire of how the States in the 60’s. This season, Fornasetti applied his timeless the store introduces Kilgour’s YORK TIMES. YORK motifs to everyday objects. I covet new slimmer, cooler cut. ‘‘The my vintage plates that depict silhouettes are classic Savile Row, scenes of Venice.’’ This tray is but sexier,’’ Kalenderian says. $940 at Barneys. ‘‘This one-button jacket’’ — $1,395 — ‘‘is very young Wall Street.’’ 4. Kalenderian has been 5 spritzing himself lately with Agua 11. Kalenderian’s globe-trotting de Colonia Fresca from Hierbas requires a great packing case, and de Ibiza ($80 for 3.4 ounces). ‘‘After 9 he never leaves home without his

years of being addicted to Jacques favorite one from Mulberry, $1,395. TENSEN, BOTHTHE NEW FOR Fath’s Green Water,’’ he says, ‘‘I ‘‘The soft, waxy Darwin finally found a suitable replacement.’’ keeps getting better with age.’’

5. Besides overseeing men’s wear, Kalenderian heads up 6 the store’s Chelsea Passage, which includes home furnishings and kids’ clothing. ‘‘I have five nephews and am constantly buying gifts for them.’’ He gave his nephew this $64 shirt by Claude, a label that reworks vintage pieces. 10

6. Shoes make the man, BY JENS MOR PHOTOGRAPHS AND PRODUCT especially if the shoes are man- 12 made. These $535 leather 12. Kalenderian plans on and drill spectators are from 7 Crockett & Jones, a company in keeping in touch with the mother Northampton, England, that’s been ship via a Flybook laptop ($2,990) hand-constructing shoes with — when he can get his hands on traditional Goodyear welting since one, that is (Barneys can’t keep 1879. ‘‘They would look great with them in stock). ‘‘It’s simple, modern, jeans or a tan cotton suit.’’ smart and incredibly light.’’ ■

8 BEDDER BY BRYAN PORTRAIT 11

72