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Buttonhole Stitch Plus

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Buttonhole Stitch Plus Machine Appliqué with the Buttonhole Stitch/Blanket Stitch By Claudia Lash Presto Avenue Designs Fusible machine appliqué is very popular today. Years ago I loved hand appliqué, but now I find that it takes too much time. With machine appliqué I can get a project finished within a reasonable time frame. The machine stitch which I use most frequently is the buttonhole stitch. This stitch will secure the shapes, add interest and definition, and can withstand repeated washings. Most sewing machines today have a buttonhole stitch as part of their stitch choices. If you haven’t tried using the buttonhole stitch, the following pages are a quick lesson. My Squiggles and Giggles pattern includes a spiral flower block which I will use it as an example. Background Square • Before cutting, it is helpful to spray your background fabric with starch and press well until the fabric is crisp. • When doing fusible appliqué blocks, it’s a good idea to cut the background block a bit larger than the finished block size. This block finishes at 8½”, so cut the background square at 9”. Cutting it larger allows you to trim the block to your exact size when finished. • Trace the applique' patch onto the paper side of lightweight fusible web*. The design is directional and will be reversed unless you flip the page over and trace from the back. Usually a pattern will state that a patch is reversed if the patch is directional. • Roughly cut out the shape with about ¼” extra all around. * My preferred fusible products are Steam a Seam 2 Lite, Soft Fuse, or Pellon Wonder Under 805. Steam a Seam 2 is repositionable which is handy. • Following the manufacturer's directions, fuse the flower to the wrong side of your chosen fabric. • Cut out the flower on the drawn line. • Wait until the fabric cools, then peel away the paper lining and position the flower in the middle of a background square. • If you have pressed the block liberally with starch so that it is crisp, you will probably be able to stitch without using a stabilizer underneath. If you notice the stitching pulling up the background, pin a lightweight stabilizer underneath. (I like to use either tear away or wash away stabilizer.) • If you are using multiple patches which lie on top of each other, you must plan ahead. For the appliqué piece that lies underneath another piece, cut away Fusible web the fusible web from the inside of the shape so that the fusible web is only on the outside edge. This will eliminate the bulk of double fusible web. Set up your sewing machine to make a buttonhole stitch. • You will need to use an open toe foot, and the standard throat plate (not the one with a single hole). • Each machine is different but I prefer to set the stitch length and stitch width at 2.0 for a regular buttonhole stitch. I set the length and width at 2.5 for a double buttonhole stitch. If you’re working on very small pieces, use a smaller width and length. • Use the needle-down setting on your sewing machine, and it is helpful to move the needle over to the far right position. • Thread your machine with a beautiful thread and practice with a scrap of fabric until you can make a stitch that you like. • If you want to add more interest to your appliqué, use a brighter, a darker, or a thicker thread. Always test your stitch on scrap fabric before working on your good block. • You may need to adjust the thread tension so that the bobbin thread does not show up on the top of the fabric. This is fine. With so many varied threads available, thread tension usually needs to be adjusted. • Begin stitching in an area which is fairly straight. Insert needle and bring the bobbin thread to the top of the fabric. Hold both threads and begin to sew. • Stitch around the shape on all edges sewing right next to the shape and being careful to make sure the 'bite' stitches are perpendicular to the edge. • Go slowly if you are new to this. • It is helpful if you have a knee lift attachment on your machine or a way to lift the foot as you sew. • When sewing on small or pointy pieces, shorten the stitch length and width. • Some fusible webs may cause the needle to become ‘sticky’ after lots of stitching. If your needle gets sticky, use a small bit of alcohol on a piece of paper towel or use an alcohol wipe to wipe the needle off. Remember that the buttonhole stitch runs next to the top fabric and takes a ‘bite’ into the shape. Usually this is the appliqué shape. However if the background is on top as in reverse appliqué, then the stitching will be ‘biting’ into the background. • When you reach your starting point, lift the foot and pull out the piece away from the machine so that you have 5-6" of thread to knot. • Use an easy-threader needle to pull all threads to the back of the block. Tie a knot. If the thread is darker than the background, use the easy- threader needle again, bury the threads under a few stitches on the back. • Press the block. Use a large square ruler to trim the block to an 8½" square. Have fun using fusible machine appliqué to make your own beautiful quilts! Check out more quilts with machine appliqué on my website www.prestoavenuedesigns.com!.
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