SINO VINO THE FINE WINE CULTURE IS TAKING ROOT IN CHINA. PAGE 9 SELFRIDGES UPS ANTE : RETAILER EXPANDS WOMEN’S AREA AND RAISES CUSTOMIZATION. PAGE 3

BANKING ON POST-CHRISTMAS Stores Hope Sales Rescue WWD Blah Holiday

WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 By DAVID MOIN

AFTER A PUZZLING and mostly disappointing holi- day run, retailers are eyeing the post-Christmas sell- ing period through January for the season’s salvation. Typically by Christmas Day, retailers are confident they’ll make their numbers. It’s not quite the case this year, based on how retail sales have played out thus far. Store executives and analysts contacted Monday Shopper and Tuesday said there were two peak periods — Black Friday weekend and last weekend, and an un- usually prolonged shopping lull in between. In other Style words, it was feast or famine, and mostly the latter.

’Tis the season for procrastinating shoppers — famous models included. WWD recently snapped picking up some last-minute gifts on Howard Street in New York’s SoHo neighborhood. For more stylish shoppers, see page 8.

® THEY ARE WEARING Retailers accelerated markdowns last week and will keep them going this week and throughout January.

“The year is not over for us yet. We have to continue to stay focused,” said Edgar Huber, chief executive of- ficer of Lands’ End. He said Lands’ End will be driven through January by the usual end-of-season sales as well as new product arrivals, though he was positive about the state of his business. “We will bring in Q4 as we planned. Everyone was waiting for the last weekend. At least for us it worked. We doubled our numbers. We had a strong Thanksgiving, record-breaking cyber sales, then business was very soft until last weekend which was very, very strong.” Others were circumspect. “There’s so much at stake with post-Christmas. We’ll see,” said one retail ceo who requested anonymity. “There were two extra days of shopping between Thanksgiving and Christmas but it just pushed the business later. Retailers became ner- vous,” and increased markdowns. “I suspect there is a lot of inventory out there and a lot of good things to buy on sale,” he added. “It’s time to rethink Christmas,” suggested Lou Amendola, executive vice president of merchandising for Brooks Brothers. “The whole holiday and what fam- ilies do and how they spend their money seems to be changing. It’s time for everyone to make adjustments.” He said retailers need to “evaluate the emphasis we put on the shopping period between Thanksgiving and Christmas and thinking that all our profits are made then. People today shop all year long on the Internet and don’t need to wait until Christmas anymore. They’re just not shopping like they used to.” James Fielding, ceo of Claire’s Stores Inc., said, “We had a terrific November, including Black Friday, and then we had some softness at the beginning of December and the last week has been really terrific,” though the calendar, with 34 days between Thanksgiving and Christmas compared to 32 last year, didn’t help PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012

TJX Acquires Sierra Trading Post THE BRIEFING BOX “We will be able to build upon IN TODAY’S WWD By EVAN CLARK Carol this platform as we continue to de- Meyrowitz velop our e-commerce strategy,” OFF-PRICE GIANT The TJX Cos. she said. “Further, we are confi- Inc. is starting to flex its muscles dent that TJX can help grow the in the online world. Sierra business profitably through Brigitte Bardot wearing iconic

The retailer, which raked in our buying scale, marketing and IMAGES sales of more than $23 billion last our other capabilities.” bell-bottom pants. year, said Friday it spent about TJX is one of the largest re- GETTY

$200 million to acquire Sierra tailers in the U.S. and known as VIA Trading Post, a Cheyenne, Wyo., a savvy operator with plenty of online off-price retailer. financial pull. Its entry into the TJX said the business would online arena could increase com- be “slightly accretive” in the next petition for Macy’s Inc., Kohl’s fiscal year, but would have a min- Corp. and scores of others who imal impact on its consolidated “substantial e-commerce expe- already have sizable and quickly financial statements. rience and expertise.” growing e-commerce businesses. Sierra Trading Post launched “We continue to plan on launch- TJX said Peter J. Solomon its e-commerce business in 1999 ing e-commerce sites for TJX Co. and Bank of America Merrill and has grown to more than $200 brands and this acquisition adds Lynch served as its financial ad- KEYSTONE-FRANCE/GAMMA-KEYSTONE million in annual revenues sell- immediate scale, capabilities and visers on the deal. Bankers are BY ing branded apparel, footwear infrastructure in e-commerce, working through the holidays to PHOTO and home furnishings. It turns which we can leverage in that re- close transactions this year and a profit and employs about 700 gard,” said Carol Meyrowitz, TJX’s avoid a potentially higher tax After a puzzling and mostly disappointing holiday run, people, whom TJX noted have chief executive officer. rate in 2013. retailers are eyeing the post-Christmas selling period through January for the season’s salvation. PAGE 1

The TJX Cos. Inc., which raked in sales of more than $23 Tazreen Fire Report Misses Deadline billion last year, said Friday it spent about $200 million to PAGE 2 precautions are not being taken it difficult to continue business acquire online off-price retailer Sierra Trading Post.

By MAYU SAINI we will take these up with the as usual, he said. management and suggest that The statement warned that As they await the Bangladesh Manufacturers and Garments AS THEY AWAIT the Bangladesh corrective action be taken im- the hartal (strikes) and political Association report on the investigation into the Tazreen Fashions Manufacturers and Garments mediately,” Ehsan Ul Fattah, the instability “might hit the indus- Ltd. factory fire, garment workers are watching the political Association (BGMEA) report on secretary general of BGMEA, try vis-à-vis overall economy and community in Dhaka, Bangladesh, with anxiety. PAGE 2 the investigation into the fire at told WWD. employment. In such a situation, the Tazreen Fashions Ltd. fac- Previous reports that BGMEA the country’s highest exporting The Cambodian judiciary has dropped charges against a tory, which took more than 111 planned to immediately expel 850 sector may fall behind the race town governor accused of shooting three garment-industry lives, garment workers are watch- of its members over compliance in the international market. So, workers on strike. PAGE 2 ing the political community in issues about labor and safety stan- to establish a business-friendly Dhaka, Bangladesh, with anxiety. dards were incorrect, he said. environment, all the political Selfridges has opened a 42,000-square-foot women’s wear “We’re still waiting for some He also added that the BGMEA parties have equal responsibili- gallery at the western end of the second floor of its Oxford consolidated action that shows report is expected shortly and that ties,’ the statement said. Street flagship in London. PAGE 3 the serious intent of the govern- it was a matter of checking thor- Meanwhile, local and inter- ment,” said Akhrar Rahman, a oughly into certain facts which did national groups are striving to Ruby Jean Wilson and Julia Nobis were among a posse of garment worker in the Ashulia not have clear answers. “We will honor the deaths of the workers Australian fashion players at last week’s Australians in New area where Tazreen’s factory is have the report out very soon,” he who lost their lives in the fire York Fashion Foundation party in Sydney. PAGE 3 located. The original deadline said. “The idea is to have the ut- by creating awareness about the for the report was Dec. 21. He most clarity on the situation.” working conditions in factories added that marking one month As the political unrest con- for labor and demanding justice The Chinese market for all things luxe doesn’t just involve from the incident which took tinues in Bangladesh, with op- for those injured and the fami- fashion and cars, as the country’s growing thirst for fine wines place on Nov. 26 was even “more position parties driving protests lies of the dead. has prompted a domestic vineyard boom. PAGE 9 grievous because of the sense of BGMEA issued a statement last “My sense is that there is injustice and the lack of action Wednesday, calling to political some chance to get justice for Versace is tripling up for its women’s spring ad campaign, against the factory owner.” parties to stop repeated strikes. the workers,” said Sam Maher with , Daria Werbowy and Joan Smalls appearing in Meanwhile, on Sunday, Ul Fattah said in a statement of Labour Behind the Label. Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott’s bold images. PAGE 9 BGMEA launched a program to that foreign buyers are “show- “But it is a little depressing that check safety and compliance ing less interest to log orders, everyone is trying to distance While Bernard Arnault’s application for Belgian nationality issues in factories. “What we which is an ominous sign for the themselves from the situation — is still being processed, some French newspapers Friday ran have done is start a consolidat- sector” as the ready-made gar- the government says it is sabo- stories about how the immigration office of Belgium’s interior ed investigation into companies ments industry is going through a tage, the brands are saying it’s ministry is not in favor of the request. PAGE 11 about their fire and other safety “critical juncture.” Although the not their responsibility, the fac- measures with a team of officers ready-made garment factories tory owner says he did not know Margery Kraus was honored at the Volunteers of America comprising architects, engineers, are excluded from the strikes, about the situation. It’s impor- New York Winter’s Eve gala at The Plaza, which raised about $1 fire officials, etc., to visit each lo- the logistic support including tant that action is taken to see million and drew a crowd of 400 people. PAGE 11 cation. When we find that certain transport and other factors make that this does not happen again.” ON WWD.COM

Cambodia Shooting Decision Raises Ire MARKETS: Seafarer, the brand known for bell-bottoms with front pockets, is ready for a relaunch. For more photos, and two suffer from lingering out of Cambodia completely,” see WWD.com/markets-news. By KRISTIANO ANG health problems associated with said Ou Virak, president of the the shooting, said Moeun Tola, Cambodian Center for Human SINGAPORE — The Cambodian head of the labor program at Rights. “Otherwise, consumers TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. judiciary has dropped charges the Community Legal Education in Europe will not forgive them WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. against a town governor accused Center, a local rights group. and their brand will be forever COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. of shooting three garment-indus- The failure to prosecute stained with the blood of these VOLUME 204, NO. 130. WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues try workers on strike, sparking Bandith, the main suspect in poor garment workers.” in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance protests from human-rights activ- the shootings, has drawn ire Puma said Wednesday that it Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, ists in the country. from Cambodian activists who was “disappointed that justice Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, According to sources, a court had previously expressed disap- has not been brought about al- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver in the southeastern province of pointment that Bandith was not most a year after the crime was Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Svay Rieng this week dropped charged for the more serious committed” and would “provide Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. three charges of “causing harm crime of premeditated murder. help in kind to the three women Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or without intent” against Chhouk “If you look at the background affected by the random shooting inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine Bandith, who at the time was of the case, it is impossible to say to alleviate their situation.” is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. the governor of a town in the it was a case of unintentional in- A Puma spokeswoman con- You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt province, citing insufficient evi- jury,” said Tola, who helped or- firmed that the German label of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request dence. Bandith had been facing ganize an independent investiga- still sources from Kaoway for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at the charges for his alleged shoot- tion into the shootings. Sports. Legal representatives for www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that ing, on Feb. 20, of three female “We call on Puma and other Bandith, who has been removed we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at employees of Kaoway Sports brands in Cambodia to urge the from his position as governor, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED Ltd., a Taiwanese-owned factory government to bring the real per- weren’t available for comment. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER that produces items for Puma. petrators for prosecution,” he said. According to Tola, the victims UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR One of the three workers was Others went further. “Puma intend to appeal the decision to DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A hospitalized in intensive care, [has] no choice now but to pull drop charges. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012 3 WWD.COM Selfridges Puts Resources Behind Women’s will introduce made-to-order By SAMANTHA CONTI services from the shirtmaker Charvet and the Scottish cash- LONDON — Selfridges is look- mere company Hawick. ing West. Judd Crane, director of wom- Not as far as Canada, howev- en’s wear, said the new gallery er, just to the western end of its came partly from demand for Oxford Street flagship to a new “extreme luxury,” hence the women’s wear gallery. made-to-measure and made-to- The new area, part of the order services. Women’s Designer Galleries on “We wanted to take our cus- the second floor, spans 42,000 tomer one step further in terms square feet, has natural light, of luxury,” said Crane during a higher ceilings than in the past, walk-through. He added that and houses a mix of luxury piec- the store also took a holistic ap- es for the customer who likes proach to designing the space her fashion with a classic — or “without the typical depart- tailored — twist. ment-store adjacencies.” In addition to shops-in-shop He said he wanted the brands by Paul Smith, DVF, , on the floor — which also include brand, but, he said, Selfridges The designer said she’s also be on offer, and in February, a Hugo Boss, and Saloni, Tory Burch, Preen and wanted to celebrate it as “an happy to meet customers per- new restaurant, Josephine’s, Jil Sander, the space features Maiyet — “to come to life” with iconic heritage brand,” with a sonally or offer more fabrics and will serve drinks and lunch with two made-to-measure salons, the adjacencies and spur custom- classic sensibility. He said it color choices as an added service. views over Oxford Street. by the London designer Emilia ers to look at brands they may sits well alongside brands such In an adjoining salon is The new gallery’s interiors Wickstead and the Savile Row have never considered before. as Paul Smith and Sportmax, the tailor Henry Rose, who in were designed by Jamie Fobert tailor Henry Rose. DVF, he said, is traditionally Saloni and Preen. the past has worked for Stella Architects and feature light Early next year, Selfridges positioned as a contemporary The floor also stocks suits McCartney and whipped up many wood floors, brass and marble and dresses by Vivienne a suit for her father, Paul, both for details, and the original high Westwood Red Label, Pleats on- and offstage appearances. ceilings that had been closed off Please and Mulberry ready-to- Rose does men’s and wom- since the Sixties. wear. Accessories include Mark en’s tailoring, and allows cus- It is the third and final wom- Cross bags, tabletop objects and tomers to choose from a variety en’s designer space to be com- rtw from Kelly Wearstler, the of coats, jackets and shooting pleted on the floor, and it boasts latter of which Selfridges car- suits — a copy of one he did for the most classic luxury offer. ries exclusively. Madonna is on display at the The East Gallery features At Emilia Wickstead’s salon, store — and he can deliver in 12 designers such as Alexander which sits near Jil Sander, cus- weeks. Rose will also make suits McQueen, , , tomers can choose from 14 dress from scratch or copy customers’ , , Rick Owens

DAVIES styles — the black toiles hang beloved wardrobe pieces. and , while in a pin-sharp row at the back The new gallery, which the Central Gallery has Stella of the room — customize them is located in the former McCartney, Burberry, Miu Miu GARETH

BY with specific colors, fabrics and Superbrands space, is still evolv- and . The Central Inside Selfridges’ new women’s area. tailoring options, and have their ing: In January, the Charvet and Gallery will stock and

PHOTOS order delivered within 20 days. Hawick services will officially Saint Laurent as of next year. DENIM Australians in New York Fete Winners Seafarer Sets Sail Again SYDNEY — Is an Australian foundation’s 2013 burse. Melbourne’s RMIT and Perth’s modeling takeover in the pipe- Partygoers included model Curtin University, were an- Ken Scott, with his prints from line? “Let’s hope so!” said Ruby agents such as Danielle nounced as the joint recipients By LAURE GUILBAULT the early Seventies. Jean Wilson, the face of Marc Ragenard, the general man- of 40,000 Australian dollars or Prices range from 180 euros Jacobs’ spring ad campaign, ager of IMG Models’ just- $41,924 at current exchange — PARIS — Seafarer, the brand to 240 euros, or $237 to $316 at at last week’s Australians in launched Australian divi- double the previous year’s fund- known for bell-bottoms with current exchange. New York Fashion Foundation sion; magazine editors and ing for the foundation, thanks to front pockets, is ready to re- Founded by an Italian im- party here. publishers such as Edwina the support of Woolmark. launch with new backers in migrant and previous U.S. Navy Flanked by Julia Nobis, McCann (Vogue), Kellie Hush Established in 2009 to help place and its historic flower- sailor in the late 19th century, the latest star of the Saint (Harper’s Bazaar), Jess Blanch young Australians gain experi- power flair intact. Seafarer was a pants supplier to Laurent spring campaign, (Russh Australia) and Alison ence in the New York fashion Five partners — Andrea the Navy until 2010. Its de- Wilson was among a posse Veness-McGourty (10 and 10 industry, the organization is Benvegnù, Massimiliano sign was meant of Sydney-, New York- and Men Australia), and designers undergoing a name and mis- Tabacchi, Alberto Raengo, to allow sailors Beijing-based Australian fash- Dion Lee, Camilla Franks and sion change in 2013. Moving Federico Barina and an angel to easily roll up ion players at the One Moncur Camilla Freeman-Topper. forward as the Australian investor — acquired the brand their trousers so cocktail bar in Woollahra to Natasha Fagg and Tim Fashion Foundation, its net- from Façonnable Group early as not to get wet cheer on the winners of the Watson, recent graduates of work of Aussie fashion ex- this year. The purchase when disembark- pats is expanding across the includes the interna- A look ing into the sea. Atlantic, and Fagg and Watson from A model in a gown tional trademark rights Seafarer got by Natasha Fagg. will have the choice of head- and license for the Seafarer. a second life in ing to either New York or U.S. from Polkton the Sixties and Europe next year for their six- Manufacturing Co., Seventies, after month internships. a North Carolina- it was found Some previous AFF induct- based company. in secondhand ees have gone on to score full- The first shops and then time positions in New York — women’s col- worn by the likes of for instance, Georgia Lazzaro lection picks Brigitte Bardot and at Inc. and Simon up on the Seafarer Jane Birkin. Eeles as an assistant to pho- cut from the “The first French ‘It’ tographer Craig McDean. And Seventies, but with girls gave [Seafarer] its sexy the foundation’s cofounder, a twist. Seafarer is aspect,” Biani explained. Sydney-born Malcolm Carfrae being repositioned The spring collection is — Calvin Klein Inc.’s executive as a high-end contem- to hit approximately 70 doors, vice president of global com- porary brand, accord- mostly concept stores, such as munications — reports he is ing to its chief executive officer, Antonia and Excelsior in Milan constantly fielding calls from Massimiliano Tabacchi. and Stanwells in the U.K. young Australians looking for “We are not talking anymore The initial shipment of that career pointers. about jeans, but about trousers line is 5,000 pieces. “I will always give them made in denim and other mate- To back the launch of the some form of advice or put rials,” he told WWD. collection, the brand partnered them in contact with someone, The spring collection, the with blogger Garance Doré for a because I’ve been in that situ- brainchild of art director teaser consisting of three video HUNTINGTON ation myself,” said Carfrae. Angela Biani, includes eight clips. Seafarer is also planning “The smallest words of advice, PATTI

models in six fabrics, including to host a launch event at Paris’ BY even if it’s only for five min- denim and gabardine. These in- Colette on Jan. 22, during the Julia Nobis and Ruby Jean Wilson utes, could make a big differ-

clude three models designed by upcoming couture week. PHOTOS ence to their careers.” 4 WwD wednesday, december 26, 2012

The modest shopping crowd last Photos by Thomas Iannaccone, weekend at the Mall of America in Pasha Antonov and Kyle Ericksen Bloomington, Minn.

Stores Bank on Post-Christmas Sales

{Continued from page one} Those figures include “a mon- with people taking advantage of much. “I think the extra week- ster shopping day” on Saturday, all of the sales — particularly in end between Thanksgiving and but excluded “an extremely busy juniors, the developer noted. Christmas, which was a pattern Christmas Eve,” said Tim Callan, “Most consumers have done we saw in 2007, definitely did RetailNext’s chief marketing offi- some sort of research before not create a sense of urgency,” cer. Callan noted that Dec. 22 was they go into the store, and they Fielding said. “I feel like people a larger volume day than Black have a better idea of what they really waited.” Friday this year, and fell just be- want,” added Shelley Kohan, Retail experts are forecasting RetailNext’s vice president for slim comp-store gains — 3 per- retail consulting. “That’s part of cent on average. The range should the double-digit traffic decline — fall from flat to midsingle digits a lot of people, when they get to ahead. They also said that most the mall, are visiting two or three of America’s retailers are fo- stores instead of four or five.” cused on dropping prices, The pace of retailing is which since last week have generating concerns about often been at 40 to 60 per- spring 2013, from the cent off and sometimes as perspective of revenues high as 80 percent off. and inventories, and Internet sales are an- triggering changes in ticipated to stay strong and the approach to both. have apparently sapped Washington’s inability sales and traffic from to resolve economic is- physical stores. If consum- sues, the ongoing im- ers didn’t actually purchase pact of Hurricane Sandy online, many researched and the nation’s overall products and prices online and somber mood are adding became surgical in their forays to the angst. to the malls, hitting fewer stores “If this fiscal cliff thing and bringing down traffic counts. really does happen, I think Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue, usually it is really going to hit the mar- mobbed with shoppers and tour- Industry of All Nations’ alpaca sweater kets and hit consumers,” said ists in December, was noticeably was a bestseller at Bloomingdale’s. David Jaffe, ceo and president of less busy this month, as were sub- Ascena Retail Group Inc., owner urban malls. hind in traffic, and that Dec. 19 to of Justice, Lane Bryant, Maurices, RetailNext found that store 21 qualified as among the top-five Dress Barn and Catherines. traffic from Thanksgiving to Dec. buying and traffic days of the sea- “We are doing revisions on 23 was down 16.5 percent com- son. Taubman Centers Inc., which revisions for the first half,” said pared to 2011. Even with the aver- owns, manages and/or leases 28 Crawford Brock, owner of the age transaction value up 4 percent shopping centers, also reported Stanley Korshak luxury store and conversions ahead 1.1 percent that Saturday was the biggest day in Dallas. “The whole fiscal cliff from year-ago levels, net sales are of the season for many retailers, thing is still in play and nobody down 5.8 percent for the season, which were up midsingle digits knows how that will wind up. It Outside a Guess store on Fifth Avenue on Saturday, which was the best day of according to the San Jose, Calif.- for the week. There was still a lot could shut down [business] after Christmas season for many retailers. based retail monitoring firm. of self purchasing this weekend the first,” of January.

w26a004(-7).indd 4 12/25/12 6:32 PM 12252012183537 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012 5 WWD.COM

BREAKDOWN BY SECTOR Here and below: Markdowns Several sources said that luxury nationwide often started in the range sales have been most difficult of 40 to 50 percent off. and should fare better this week and in January as the high-end discounting grows and fresh designer merchandise arrives. Department stores were said to be surprised by how reluctant consumers were, but business picked up over last week after ag- gressive markdowns. “It’s going to be OK, not great,” Richard Baker, ceo of Hudson’s Bay Co., which operates Lord & Taylor in the U.S. and The Bay in Canada, said of the holiday sea- son. “Everything happened late.” Baker said business was better in Canada than in the U.S., indicat- ing “a bit of a dampener” due to the fiscal cliff and some contin- ued impact from Sandy. “We’re pleased with the busi- ness,” said Michael Gould, chair- “We are cautious. There’s help make for a record Christmas man and ceo of Bloomingdale’s. quite a bit going on that’s impact- to New Year’s week, along with Several specialty chains re- ing customers,’’ Erik Searles, vice many people being off work, all portedly came out OK and the president of retail for Oakley, said, the wild discounting of seasonal performance by discounters ap- citing Sandy and the fiscal cliff, merchandise and the onset of gift peared mixed, with Wal-Mart out- though he sensed consumers grew card redemptions. “This has been performing Target. “The biggest cautious early this past fall as the a very challenged season. People winners of 2012 holidays, in our presidential election loomed. are buying later, closer to need. opinion, were Victoria’s Secret, “The season came in the last We think the average ticket is Bath & Body Works, American three days,” Searles continued. trading down,” said Johnson. Eagle, Old Navy, Coach and “It was much more last minute On the positive side, Johnson Lululemon,” said retail analyst than we have seen in the past.” believes that Urban Outfitters, Jennifer Black of Jennifer Black In 2011, there were eight or nine Anthropologie, American Eagle, & Associates. Uniqlo on Fifth Avenue had a big days of “core” gift-shopping prior Costco, Home Depot, Lowe’s and Standard & Poor’s equity ana- crowd on Saturday. to Christmas, while this year, it Nordstrom had good seasons, lyst Ian Gordon cut his rating on was a three-day window, Searles and that traffic at J.C. Penney said. “The week before Christmas finally picked up after the com- lio to provide the sophistication, started much softer than we ex- pany accelerated its advertising versatility and quality our cus- pected. However, these last three and newspaper inserts and ex- HOLIDAY TRENDS tomers had asked for in apparel,” days were off the chart. We ex- plained its pricing better. Still, ■ Same-store sales up 3 percent on average; said Lana Krauter, president of ceeded projections over the last “It will be very difficult, but not range from flat to midsingle-digit gains. Sears Apparel and senior vice few days.” Among the changes at impossible for a lot of people to ■ Bestsellers: boots; contemporary sportswear, jeans, president at Sears Holdings Corp. Oakley for next year, a greater em- meet their plans,” said Johnson, tech accessories, gift cards, embellished cashmere “The addition of the Kardashian phasis on exclusive products sold who forecast a 2.8 percent holi- Kollection strengthened our ap- at the brand’s 225 stores world- day comp-store gain for retail- sweaters and graphic T-shirts. peal across multiple categories wide including 146 in the U.S. ers. “If you look at December, it’s ■ Deals drive strong Black Friday and late December throughout the store and contin- “People are bringing in fresh actually tracking below that so results; business stalls in weeks between. ued the momentum of key brands product sooner,” observed Craig far, but we are anticipating this ■ Post-Christmas selling more critical amid slim like Bongo and True Freedom in Johnson, president of Customer Christmas to New Year’s week Nov.-Dec. gains. the juniors area.” However, “Like Growth Partners Inc. That could will be a pretty good week.” all retailers, we are challenged by the cost of goods and the increas- ing number of both online and brick-and-mortar businesses,” CONSUMER PATTERNS Krauter said. “The economy con- ■ Little motivation to spend amid somber national tinues to impact retail.” mood and worries over fiscal cliff. “We had just a wonderful ■ Extra two days between Thanksgiving and Christmas Christmas season,” said Kip reduces urgency to shop and delays purchasing. Tindell, chairman and ceo of The Container Store. “I was ■ Tight budgets put focus on lower-priced items struck by how much people and self-gifting. seemed to be ready to indulge in ■ Online and mobile shopping continue to rise. delightful, unexpected, little lux- uries like our beautifully curated collection of gift ribbons, bows, Target Corp.’s stock to buy from chance to get back to the low end totes, tins and trimmings. It was strong buy. “Based on our holi- of where they thought they might the same thing for our Christmas day shopping channel checks, we come out. A lot of the other retail- focus on our stocking stuffers — think customer traffic weakness ers have a chance of missing pro- unexpected, whimsical, make- persisted into December from jections entirely.” you-smile little gifts that span November,” Gordon said, de- “Last year we placed great from poignant to hysterical.” scribing Target. “We think trends emphasis on revising our portfo- {Continued on page 6} improved closer to Christmas but believe certain merchandising initiatives failed to generate cus- Lord & Taylor, with tomer interest, heightening gross its concentration margin risk.” A few analysts have of stores in the noted that Target’s collaboration Northeast, was with Neiman Marcus on a design- impacted by er gift collection has fallen short Hurricane Sandy. of expectations. J.P. Morgan equity analyst Matthew Boss said there was a definite shopping surge on Saturday, that Sunday was “pret- ty strong” and was followed by the expected Christmas Eve consumer push. “There’s people walking around the mall with bags, no question,” said Boss on Monday as he monitored traffic at the South Hills Village mall in Pittsburgh. “The discounts that you’re seeing at specialty [stores] are deeper than what you’re see- ing at department stores.…I think Macy’s and Nordstrom have a 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012

{Continued from page 5} sponding period last year. Free spired sweaters from Vince, and Tindell, who is also vice Shipping Day itself reached the Bolivian patterned sweaters from chairman of the National Retail $1 billion milestone for the first Industry of All Nations. Federation, said, “I really expect time and followed the first $7 At Von Maur, which after a this to be a good year for the U.S. billion week in online history last-minute rush wound up with economy and the retail industry. during the seven days ended a high-single-digit gain, accord- It’s the irresponsibility of the Dec. 16. ing to Joy Place, vice president more radical, freshman and soph- “We typically do not see such of merchandising, the shining omore members of the House of heavy spending this late in the stars were women’s contempo- Representatives who are going season,” said ComScore chair- rary, designer jewelry, watches to temper the year…and make it man Gian Fulgoni, “but the fact and dresses. “We try to deliver just good when it could be great. that Free Shipping Day occurred as much fashion as possible be- Moderation is where it’s at.” on a Monday, combined with the tween December and January Kelly Golden, owner of the fact that so many retailers ex- because this is what the customer upscale Neopolitan Collection tended their promotions into the will buy even if they can’t wear it in Chicago, said, “This season middle of the week — with guar- right away,” she said. beat our expectations. Since anteed shipping by Christmas — At Stanley Korshak, “Every Thanksgiving came earlier this helped deliver an encouraging department was up except year, people starting shopping late-season surge.” jewelry and cosmetics. They sooner. We also had several fine Through Dec. 21, online sales are not doing the $100,000 jew- jewelry trunk shows, which our for the season were up 15.6 per- elry like they were a year ago,” clients responded very well, cent, to $38.69 billion from $33.48 Stanley Korshak’s Brock said. too. After a few years of holding billion at the same time last year. “They are buying $10,000 and back, people were treating them- $20,000 things.” selves or their significant others HOLIDAY HITS AMID A SOFT SEASON At Forever 21, footwear, spe- once again. We sold lots of fine Retailers did cite several best- cifically boots, were a standout jewelry from Irene Neuwirth, sellers, despite the general dis- category throughout the holiday Kimberly McDonald, Jamie Wolf appointment. Down coats, down shopping season, but gift cards ·· and Etername. The average price jackets and cold weather acces- did well, too. Linda Chang, mar- point for gifts was up from last sories did best at Lands’ End. At keting director at Forever 21, year. The next few weeks we’ll Bloomingdale’s, the standouts called the Los Angeles-based re- be focusing on getting our clients included whimsical iPhone cases tailer’s holiday season “solid,” into resort mode.” from Marc by ; mus- but acknowledged the battle for ComScore Inc. reported that tache speakers from Audiology sales was waged mostly on the online sales gains — which had and Native Union pop phones promotional front. “It was sur- been declining from midteen in candy pink; high-top sneak- prising to see how many retail- Bloomingdale’s levels earlier in the year — ers from Ash and Converse; ers were heavily promotional saw strong traffic jumped up strongly during the the Parrot Zik Bluetooth wire- and how early they were with it on Saturday. work week beginning on Free less headphones designed by both online and offline. That was Shipping Day, Dec. 17, and end- Philippe Starck; men’s sports something new compared to last ing on Dec. 21. Sales for the five- jackets in velvet and patterns; year,” said Chang, adding, “This day period hit $3.69 billion, 52.8 Moncler and Canada Goose holiday season, the shopper won percent better than the corre- outerwear; alpaca Navajo in- out. They got to see all the pro- It’s time to rethink Christmas. The whole holiday and what families do and how they spend their money seems to be changing. — LOU AMENDOLA, BROOKS BROTHERS

Window gazing at Harry Winston. ··

The busy scene on the main floor of Macy’s Herald Square on Dec. 14. WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012 7 WWD.COM

Lands’ End, here inside Sears at the Mall of America, expects to reach its fourth-quarter goals.

motions that were happening. customers responded to sweat- day of the year so far. We had a designer and celebrity fragranc- calendar, projects $10 billion Because there were so many ers and other knitwear. Tailored 360-degree turn from a week ago. es and gift sets like Bodycology in mobile sales by the end of happening across the stores, they clothing, which was not planned Everybody came out. We were and Burt’s Bees. Target said the year. But, rather than Cyber were canceling each other out.” to be up much, was not a big sell- really busy, people were posi- today is the busiest day of the Monday, once thought of as the To boost sales, Brooks Bros. er, while women’s merchandise tive and traffic was way up. We year for gift card redemption, official kick off to the online hol- held a sweater promotion the was especially promotional. weren’t promotional, but we were particularly in electronics. iday shopping season, Sunday week before Christmas and was Bob Mitchell, copresident of ahead of last year.” Forever 21’s sales “met our Dec. 9, dubbed “Mobile Sunday,” prepared to go “deeper on fash- Mitchells Family of Stores, had He said he believes custom- forecast for online, and we are was the heaviest shopping day, ion merchandise” with 50-per- a different experience. “The ers waited until the last minute seeing that it is taking more and with both eBay and PayPal hit- cent-off promotions “rather than last four days made the whole because they were distracted by more market share,” said Chang. ting record daily highs in mo- the traditional 40 percent. But it’s season,” he said. “A week ago, I Hurricane Sandy, the shooting “I think that it was a much faster bile volume. The second biggest time to liquidate and move on,” would have said it was challeng- in Newtown, Conn., and the un- game this year online. Last year, mobile shopping day was the Amendola pointed out. He said ing, but Saturday was the best certain tax situation. “In the end, you were able to do promotions Sunday prior, Dec. 2, with global they had to go out and buy gifts,” for a longer time period or get payment volume exceeding that he said. The company’s recently people interested with easy of Cyber Monday. renovated Wilkes Bashford unit things such as free shipping, but Lyst reported similar find- in San Francisco posted strong re- this year it seems like because ings. The social commerce net- sults, led by women’s jewelry, ac- everyone offers free shipping work that operates on a referral cessories, handbags and shoes. At and does so many promotions, revenue model and aggregates the company’s Mitchells, Richards you have to be a lot quicker.” the inventories of its retail part- and Marshs stores on the East ners into a style feed, also saw Coast, “luxury kicked into gear,” ONLINE MOMENTUM sales on Dec. 10 (Green Monday) he said, with Brunello Cucinelli, At eBay, the focus for shoppers that surpassed Cyber Monday Loro Piana, Zegna and Brioni this holiday season was toys, and Black Friday. Sales from among the high-performing labels. electronics and shopping, with Dec. 17 to Dec. 18 were close HBC’s Lord & Taylor and The a slew of promotions that kicked to Cyber Monday, said Lyst ceo Bay stores did best with fashion off last month and ended right Chris Morton. and high-tech accessories, includ- before Christmas Day. This At The Outnet, sales across ing handbags and iPad cases, con- ranged from the eBay Holiday the board have been strong, ac- temporary sportswear, watches, Collective — where the mar- cording to the online retailer cashmere in men’s and women’s, ketplace tapped designers and that currently sees 1.4 million and denim. brands like Billy Reid, Chris monthly visitors, according to Sears cited the Kardashian Benz, Fallon, Jonathan Adler, managing director Stephanie Kollection and its expansion into Ruffian, Steven Alan and Tibi to Phair. The most-searched-for intimates, denim and optical, and create gifts for under $100 — to items this month were fur, leather its Bongo, True Freedom and Toy Box, a pop-up experience and cashmere, and top searched Outdoor Life private brands as from Dec. 6 to 9 in New York’s brands were Alexander Wang, among its most popular brands. Meatpacking District that high- Alexander McQueen, Lanvin and Vanity Shop of Grand Forks lighted the hottest toys and had Rick Owens. Popular holiday Inc., based in Fargo, N.D., report- a charitable partnership with Meanwhile, retailers are items included, ed that denim, fleece, blazers and Toys for Tots. closely watching what Macy’s is clockwise from jackets were hot items. “Blazers There was Holiday Express on doing with its comprehensive left, a Kardashian and jackets have continued to eBay Now (the new service that “Week of Wonderful” campaign Kollection outfit take the place of the cardigan provides product delivery in as targeting the postholiday shop- at Sears; Marc by business that existed a couple of little as one hour after a mobile per with advertising, catalogues, Marc Jacobs tech years ago,” Michael Feurer, ceo purchase is made) from Dec. 17 special events and early spring accessories at and president, said. “We see suc- to 22 for last-minute shoppers. arrivals. Vanity Shop of Grand Bloomingdale’s and cess in fashion basics as well. We The service, which works via Forks Inc.’s Feurer said, “It is an Lands’ End throws. call them those magnet pieces, geo-sensing location technology absolute opportunity for us to be which are items you can literally from Milo and seamless payment very strategic about some of those run through the store and out- options from PayPal, kept free traditionally less opportune times fits magically stick to them. This delivery running until midnight in the retail calendar year to gets back to the versatility of the during this period. The top-sell- make a statement, to have a fresh fashion, [something] that we have ing products through December perspective and be forward look- seen success with.” were white gold diamond stud ing, whether it is in the color or Top-selling items at Target earrings, Ugg boots, Samsonite merchandise offering.” were toys like LeapPads and luggage, Emporio Armani sun- — CONTRIBUTIONS BY Furbys; holiday decor; select glasses and Coach bags. RACHEL BROWN, RACHEL electronics including Wii U, iPad, EBay, which believes the STRUGATZ, ARNOLD J. KARR, iPod Touch and TVs, and cos- surge in mobile engagement has SHARON EDELSON, HOLLY metics including value makeup, dramatically shifted the retail HABER, EVAN CLARK AND JEAN 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012 WWD.COM IANNACCONE THOMAS AND ERICKSEN KYLE AQUINO, JOHN BY PHOTOS

FOR MORE, SEE WWD.com/ eye.

Shopper Style Whether in Midtown Manhattan’s madness or the somewhat calmer blocks of SoHo, last-minute shoppers took to the streets in various versions of style — from chic to cool, preppy to quirky.

® THEY ARE WEARING HONORING MARGERY KRAUS: Ron Frasch and Elie Tahari were on hand at the Volunteers of America New York Winter’s WWDSTYLE Eve gala. PAGE 11

PHOTO BY TOMASZ SAJEWICZ A Little Red? HEBEI PROVINCE, China — The Chinese market for all things luxe doesn’t just involve fashion and cars. The country’s growing thirst for fine wines has prompted a domestic vineyard boom, which includes Huailai Amethyst Manor Winery, where Liu Ning showed off the vineyard’s merlot grapes. For more, see page 10.

reflects Versace’s glamorous yet Jaenada, Yann Moix, Véronique MEMO PAD hyper-strong image. Ovaldé and Bruno de Stabenrath “To have three glamorous — have a narration that THE THREE GRACES: Versace and iconic women like begins literally inside a trunk. is tripling up for its women’s Kate, Daria and Joan in one Aptly, the pieces have been spring ad campaign. campaign is not an easy feat,” assembled in an anthology Kate Moss, Daria Werbowy and said Donatella Versace. “Mert entitled “The Trunk.” Joan Smalls appear in Mert Alas and Marcus really outdid Due out in March, the 356- and Marcus Piggott’s bold images, themselves. Each image is page book is being published by which will debut in January. composed like a work of art.” Les Editions Louis Vuitton and Shot in London on a — ALESSANDRA TURRA Les Editions Gallimard. nocturnal, moonlike set, A limited-edition, leather- the campaign, with creative LITERARY BAGGAGE: bound version will be direction by Giovanni Bianco, Louis Vuitton’s available — in French, grandson Gaston- English and Japanese An image Louis Vuitton was — in Louis Vuitton from the a trunk aficionado, stores and through Two photos from Valentino’s spring ads, shot by Sarah Moon. Versace as his collection louisvuitton.com for campaign. of photographs 50 euros, or $66 at blurry, as though captured of Moon: “Every one of her and newspaper current exchange. The through a gust of delicate pictures is like a movie scene. cuttings attest. It bookstore edition will snowflakes. Photographer Sarah They convey the suspended was these that 11 be in French. Moon, known for her ethereal moment of a story and evoke French writers were — LAURE GUILBAULT style, shot the campaign at an expressive urgency.” granted access to the Studio Rouchon in Paris. The Italian agency REM for inspiration. THE RED AND THE Models Codie Young, Magdalena helped with the campaign’s The resulting short WHITE: Valentino’s Jasek, Mackenzie Drazan, Tilda artistic direction, while stories — by Éliette The cover of “The spring ad campaign Lindstam, Maud Welzen and makeup artist Violette and Abécassis, Fabienne Trunk.” is a far cry from Esther Heesch are shown as hairstylist Guillaume Bérard gave Berthaud, Marie the Italian house’s glacial beauties in a surreal the models their wintry looks. Darrieussecq, Virginie Despentes, famous, vibrant red: This setting with transparent The campaign will break Jan. 2 Nicolas d’Estienne d’Orves, Patrick time around, the images are sofas. Valentino’s co-creative in Italian Vogue. Eudeline, David Foenkinos, Philippe icy white and deliberately director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, said — CYNTHIA MARTENS 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012 China Sprouting Homegrown Wine Culture HEBEI PROVINCE, China — is only for high-end customers, The Huailai Amethyst Manor it appeared, not for those who vineyard and winery isn’t ex- wander in for a glimpse at one actly world famous. Yet that’s of China’s newest obsessions — eye clearly the image for which the homegrown wine. brand is striving. Bar, China-zone manager The tastefully crafted, muted for the French distributor brick multibuilding winery — Distribution Internationale de surrounded by several fields of Vins et Alcools, or DIVA, has ex- grapevines carefully selected plored countless such vineyards from the best wine-growing in his years in China. Though regions of France, then trans- few have impressed him with planted here to northern China their wine, he sees immense — sits just below the Great Wall, potential and a powerful drive an hour north of Beijing, in the to make good wine. dusty terrain of Hebei. Inside As China’s wine consump- the vineyard and winery are tion has grown exponentially the best grapes available, top- in the past 10 years, so, too, end equipment imported from has its reach as a winemaker. France and Italy, and aged oak International wine organiza- barrels from the tions estimate that 85 U.S., signed by FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE percent of all grape the Chinese wine wine consumed in drinkers who have WWD.com/eye. China is grown do- paid hundreds, or mestically, mostly even thousands, of in the tens of thou- dollars for caskets sands of small vine- of a drink unheard of outside the yards and distilleries that have region. But one might pass by it emerged in the past decade in Viniculture at Huailai. on the expressway without no- places like the Hebei, Ningxia ticing. Huailai Amethyst Manor and Shandong provinces. produces hundreds of thousands Wine has become an impor- of bottles of wine each year, ac- tant status symbol for newly cording to its marketing direc- wealthy Chinese. Many are tors, mainly sold under the label studying the art and the prod- Danbian, a wine that seems to be uct, while many, many more are available only in China. investing in it and looking to It is the very expensive, make money by making wine. and potentially lucrative, pet So what’s the missing link to project of a group of local busi- making great Chinese wine? nesspeople in Hebei who spent “Wine culture,” says Bar, who millions on building the winery, studied wine-making in France. choosing the grape strains and “You have to localize the grapes, buying vats and other technol- know the growing conditions. ogy to make a European-grade You need time, and you need a wine. The gamble may be work- lot of patience. This industry is ing, to some extent. Though the young. They will get there.” wine is unavailable outside of Only a decade ago, much China, Danbian fetches a pretty Chinese wine was virtually penny domestically — espe- undrinkable, hardly a step re- cially for a product not gener- moved from cooking vinegar. ally rated among China’s top After all, Chinese had their wines, but rather among locals own drink: baijiu, a high-octane who want to be seen as drinking grain alcohol essential at all expensive wines. official banquets and business At the end of a tour of the meetings. And while baijiu vineyard and processing plants, hasn’t left the scene by any Israeli wine expert and broker means, red wine in particular

Yiftach Bar, who routinely im- has begun joining it at the table. ports some of the world’s best “Most of my friends don’t even

wines into China, asked for really like to drink baijiu, and red SAJEWICZ a sample of Danbian wine in wine actually tastes quite lovely,”

Huailai’s tasting room. That, says Cynthia Wu, a 33-year-old TOMASZ

the staff told him, was impossi- legal assistant who lives in Merlot grapes on Huailai BY ble unless he pays 900 yuan, or Beijing. “We can go for a glass Amethyst Manor winery. ·· Offerings from Danbian.

$157, to uncork a bottle. As Bar of wine together or have it with PHOTOS laughed, the staff shuffled un- dinner, but we would never drink comfortably. The tasting room Chinese alcohol so casually.” Another way of looking at tentially be so troubling. The high-priced wine enough. More The emergent Chinese it: The projected growth in news could lay the framework wine drinkers know what they wine consumer is not an China’s wine market from 2011 for a case from China at the want, and will pay to get it. isolated individual but a to 2015 is equal to one billion WTO over imported wine from “Consumers are learning full-on trend. bottles of wine. Most of that Europe, which eventually might very, very fast,” said Martin According to a recent increase in consumption is spell higher prices and fewer Liu, who has worked in the report from VineExpo/ at the lower end of the spec- imports, leaving the high-end high-end food and beverage International Wine and trum, in cheaper, domestically wine market in China to the industry for several years and Spirit Research, a global made wines that still haven’t country’s domestic newcomers. has a small investment-grade trade fair for wine sales in evolved much in taste wine collection of his Asia, the region is the word or quality. Yet driven by own. “It’s no longer driver in growth of wine investors and wine afi- about the name only. consumption. The report cionados at the top, the We can go for a glass of It’s about the taste.” notes that Chinese con- high end of the market And as China’s sumers typically drink 1 to is changing quickly. wine together or have it winemakers are 1.3 liters per capita of wine With the proliferation scrambling to catch per year, compared with of midlevel wineries with dinner, but we would up with a centuries- 20 liters per capita in the like Amethyst, an emer- old European tradi- United States and 50 liters gent group of Chinese tion, some have taken in France. Within three winemakers has started never drink Chinese a shortcut. Recent years, the figure is ex- to attract international reports say several pected to rise to about two attention. alcohol so casually. Chinese billionaires liters per capita in China Yet for the serious are buying, or trying — a massive increase in wine investor and high- — CYNTHIA WU to buy, famous wine the world’s most populous end wine drinker in châteaus in France, country. Wine consumption China, there is no substitute That’s problematic for perhaps recognizing that wine has leveled off in Europe, for European quality. Which is Chinese wine consumers at the culture, the essential, impalpa- meanwhile, and continues why recent rumblings from a upper end, especially since tastes ble element that makes a great to grow fairly quickly in Chinese industry association are quickly outpacing the devel- wine, can’t be made overnight in the United States, the as- that the EU is flooding China’s opment of great wine produced the plains of Hebei. Yiftach Bar sociation reports. market with wine could po- in China. No longer is a bottle·· of — KATHLEEN MCLAUGHLIN WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2012 11 WWD.COM

York retailers and designers, among other Municipality of Florence to international FASHION SCOOPS guests, viewed sparkling centerpieces filled personalities who have distinguished with chocolate, cookies, perfume, candles themselves and contributed to the and Champagne, which sold at a bargain society’s social and cultural development. price of $150. Richard Motta, president and The award ceremony will take place at ceo of Volunteers of America-Greater New Florence’s 13th-century Palazzo Vecchio PAPER CHASE: While luxury titan York, and Maxwell Feller, a recipient of the on Jan. 9, during the upcoming edition Bernard Arnault’s application for Richard P. Motta organization’s Youth Services program, of international men’s trade show Pitti Belgian nationality is still being and Margery Kraus were also honored. Immagine Uomo. — ALESSANDRA TURRA processed, some French newspapers In such areas as education, housing Friday ran stories about how the and retraining, where state and city LIM POPS UP IN HONG KONG: With a stand- immigration office of Belgium’s governments can’t meet all the needs of alone store in Harbour City, Kowloon, interior ministry is not in favor of everyone, Volunteers of America often not to mention a presence in Lane the request. Reportedly that office lends support, noted Ron Frasch, Saks Fifth Crawford stores, and now a pop-up store — which is just one of three official Avenue’s president and chief merchant, in Wanchai, on Hong Kong Island, Phillip bodies whose suggestions are heard who was one of the three dinner chairs, Lim has got all of Hong Kong covered. by the naturalization commission along with Kathy Nedorostek-Kaswell The 3.1 Phillip Lim pop-up store in Belgium’s chamber of deputies and Roxann Taylor. “This is an amazing launched last week on trendy Wing Fung — gave a negative opinion, since organization that truly gives back to our Street, where cult magazine Monocle Arnault has not resided in the communities,” Frasch said. — DAVID MOIN also has a shop, as well as Club Monaco. country for three years. The store’s modern and spare design, It isn’t believed that fact will be a TALBOT RONHOF, PARIS: Talbot Runhof is with striking organic elements and a major stumbling block in his pursuit preparing to open a flagship in Paris in dynamic art gallery feel, is a collaboration of Belgian nationality. However, Le mid January, its first store outside Munich. between Lim and New York-based Monde’s headline read: “M. Arnault “It will be the perfect showcase to production and set designer Jonathan pas assez belge pour devenir belge” raise our profile,” said Adrian Runhof, co- Beck. The 800-square-foot retail space — (or “Mr. Arnault Not Belgian Enough owner with Johnny Talbot, during a visit the brand’s first such pop-up presence to Become Belgian” in English). to Neiman Marcus NorthPark Center in in Asia — is spread out over two floors Meanwhile, Libération’s story was Dallas. “Since we do our runway show in and will stay for 10 months. Far from called: “ Paris and all our international business being a static space, the pop-up shop will La Belgique snobe Bernard Ron Frasch and Elie Tahari Arnault” (or “Belgium Snubs is based there, this was the one piece of reflect the energy and freshness of the Bernard Arnault”). the puzzle that was missing.” brand, with displays and merchandise As reported, Arnault is seeking Located on Rue Saint-Honoré next changing every month, reportedly shifting amends for public insult against to Miu Miu, the shop’s ground floor will from the women’s collection to the men’s Libération after it ran in September resemble a museum exhibition featuring and back. For December, the store is a photo of him under the headline about a dozen mannequins on rotating stocking the holiday-resort and pre- “Casse-toi riche con!” — whose most platforms. A purple felted spiral spring women’s ready-to-wear collection, polite translation is “Get Lost Rich staircase will connect the white and together with accessories. Idiot!” The cover treatment was a gray gallery with a showroom upstairs There’s a social media aspect to riposte to Arnault’s revelation that he where most of the eveningwear and the pop-up store, too. A Web site, had applied for Belgian citizenship day dresses will hang. Talbot Runhof 3.1philliplim-hk-pop-up.com, has been just as France’s Socialist government + Rodo shoes and bags will occupy a set up, and will feature the contributions vowed to impose a 75 percent tax rate separate room on the first level of the of bloggers and local style icons such as on incomes of more than 1 million 2,150-square-foot store. Tina Leung of tinaloves.com and Janice Lee euros, or $1.3 million at current The boutique follows a month after of popbee.com, who will style looks from exchange. Arnault has vowed he “is Collection Rolf Heyne published a 367- the store. — BAMBINA WISE and will remain” a fiscal resident of page book on the designers. Written in France. — JENNIFER WEIL German and English, the tome documents LAPO’S WAY: A new book by Lapo Elkann, the preparation of a Talbot Runhof the founder of the Italian Independent VOLUNTEERS HONOR KRAUS: “There is collection from fabric selection to runway brand and one of the Agnelli heirs, something about the U.S. Most people AQUINO JOHN BY PHOTOS show. It also features 200 dresses and called “Le regole del mio stile” (“The are willing to help other people, gowns from their 20-year collaboration rules of my style”), hit bookstores on and when they do, they feel better volunteerism that started when she all freshly shot on a single model. The Sunday. Through its 192 pages, all in about themselves,” said Margery Kraus, was a Girl Scout helping the elderly. designers, who produce more than 100,000 color, Elkann, known for his stylish and the founder and chief executive “My whole life has been defined by dresses a year in workshops in Bavaria, sometimes quirky approach to fashion, officer of APCO Worldwide, the large volunteerism. The spirit is embedded are contemplating opening stores in New offers his vision and advice on this communication and public affairs in the DNA of the company I started.” York and London. — HOLLY HABER subject. Readers with iPhones will firm. “Just look at [Hurricane] Sandy. The event raised about $1 million, have additional and interactive content See how it mobilized people.” drew a crowd of 400 and included a MENKES HONORED: International Herald available through the App Ar-Code Kraus was honored at the Volunteers silent auction with products from more Tribune fashion editor Suzy Menkes is mobile platform based on Augmented of America New York Winter’s Eve than 80 brands and retailers. In the going to receive the Fiorino d’Oro, a Reality. Elkann is negotiating an English gala at The Plaza for decades of ballroom, the large contingent of New high-profile award conferred by the version of the book. — LUISA ZARGANI Philanthropy on Madison Ave. MIRACLE ON Madison Avenue, among which was followed by a reception New York City’s most successful and pop- in the hotel. Aside from all the shop- ular philanthropic holiday shopping tra- ping, the event included live per- ditions, was held Dec. 1, with more than formances on 64th Street by Cobu, a For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. 60 brands and retailers participating. Japanese traditional Taiko-drumming Companies between 57th and 86th Streets along Madison, includ- ATTENTION CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS! ing Etro, Ralph Lauren, Fred Leighton, Coach, Due to the New Years Holiday observance Max Mara, Georg Jensen, WWD will not publish on either Monday 12/31 or Tuesday 1/01 Ippolita, Tory Burch, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Derek Lam, Bottega Fairchild offices also will be closed those days. PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Veneta, Bally and La Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Perla, donated 20 percent Deadline for issue of Wednesday 01/02 will be of their sales from 10 a.m. Friday, 12/28 at 11am to 5 p.m. to The Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Thank you for your cooperation. Cancer Center to ben- efit the Pediatric Family Housing Endowment. The initiative pays for overnight stays at nearby HOFFMAN OWEN BY PHOTO accommodations when Matthew Bauer, Ashley and Grace Aston, Muffie Potter Aston, children and their fami- Paul Tsigrikes and Dr. Aniello Musella. lies come for treatment at Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer and rhythmic tap-dancing group; Come Center’s pediatric department and are Together, a Sixties cover band, and unable to afford this expense. the Pipes of Christmas, a traditional The festivities kicked off Nov. 29, Celtic dance celebration with holiday with the first annual holiday light- music by the Clan Currie Society. For a (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] ing ceremony by the Carlyle Hotel, break from the shopping, a hospitality on Madison Avenue and 76th Street, lounge was set up on 67th Street. 20

FAIRCHILD SUMMITS 13

* WWD APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT January 7-8, New York City WWD DIGITAL FORUM: WINTER SESSION January 30, New York City MEN’S WEAR SUMMIT March 20, New York City FOOTWEAR NEWS CEO SUMMIT April 29-May 1, Miami WWD BEAUTY SUMMIT May 21-22, New York City

NEW WWD DIGITAL FORUM: SPRING SESSION June 12, Los Angeles WWD DIGITAL FORUM: FALL SESSION September 18, New York City WWD APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT October 28-29, New York City

* Rescheduled from 2012

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