HERMES SALES CLIMB/2 GOING CUCKOO FOR CAVALLI/12-13 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • November 9, 2007 • $2.00 Beauty Color of Relief Can you do well by doing good? That’s something Lancôme hopes will be the case with a limited edition color cosmetics collection created by one of its spokesmodels, Daria Werbowy. Out in April as a Sephora exclusive, the three- stockkeeping-unit lineup will benefi t Centro Espacial Vik Muniz, a children’s art center in Brazil. For more, see page 7.

In Surprise Move, Lauder Taps P&G Executive as Future CEO By Pete Born Procter & Gamble Co., as the an interview Thursday that “my n a seismic cultural shift, the beauty group’s next president and obligation for the next number of IEstée Lauder Cos. Inc. has chief operating officer, with plans months is to prepare the way for reached outside its world of to promote him to chief executive Fabrizio to be successful as our prestige beauty to recruit Fabrizio officer within 24 months. next ceo.” Freda, until recently president William P. Lauder, now the When the board approves Freda, of the Global Snacks division of firm’s president and ceo, said in See Lauder, Page 6 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY MEGAN MCINTYRE MITRA; STYLED BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007 WWD.COM Asia Leads Hermès Sales Rise By Miles Socha follow double-digit gains reported recently by Gucci WWDFRIDAY Group and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. PARIS — In another sign of luxury’s vigor, sales at In a research note, HSBC analysts Antoine Belge Beauty Hermès International rose 12.3 percent in the third and Erwan Rambourg said Hermès’ robust fi gures quarter to 394.7 million euros, or $542.3 million, from and “cautiously optimistic” outlook “demonstrate 351.4 million euros, or $446.3 million, a year ago. that the luxury consumer remains resilient.” GENERAL The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. has reached outside its world of prestige beauty On a like-for-like basis, and stripping out the They cautioned, however, that a 9 percent slide impact of currency, the increase stood at 13.6 per- in the value of the U.S. dollar since the summer is 1 to recruit Fabrizio Freda as its next president and chief operating offi cer. cent. The results refl ect a pickup in Japan, despite creating serious headwinds for European luxury In another sign of luxury’s vigorous health, Hermès International said a sluggish environment there, and robust demand players, and a “gradual slowdown” is inevitable 2 third-quarter sales rose 12.3 percent to $542.3 million. for silk scarves, ready-to-wear and fragrances, after three exceptional years. particularly the new Kelly Calèche scent. The negative currency trend slashed 54 mil- Flexing the synergies of Adidas with its recently acquired Reebok arm “We are in a positive mood,” said Patrick lion euros, or $74.2 million, off Hermès’ sales for 2 helped push Adidas AG’s third-quarter profi ts up 22 percent. Thomas, chief executive offi cer of Hermès, high- the nine months ended Sept. 30. In the period, Despite a dismal October, promises of cleaner inventories and reiterated lighting a 16.7 percent spike in third-quarter sales revenues totaled 1.12 billion euros, or $1.52 bil- 4 guidance have left analysts feeling calmer heading into the holidays. in the company’s own boutiques. “It’s a signifi cant lion, from 1.05 billion euros, or $1.33 billion, an upturn.…For October, the trend is good.” increase of 6.1 percent. All currency conversions Dior Beauty will open its fi rst freestanding store in North America on The company cited particular strength in Asia were made at average exchange rates for the re- 7 Saturday in Las Vegas at the center of the Forum Shops at Caesars. — excluding Japan — where sales leaped 27 per- spective periods. Donna Karan hosted a few hundred revelers at late husband Stephan cent in the third quarter despite a slowdown in By region, nine-month sales rose 16 percent in 7 Weiss’ West Village studio to launch her new scent, Delicious Night. tourism there. Hermès has stepped up its pres- Europe, 11 percent each in the U.S. and France, 3 ence in the region, recently adding boutiques in percent in Japan and 13 percent in Asia. Hermès Newly public company Ulta has evolved into a full-service purveyor of Hangzhou and Chengdu in China. upped its full-year sales growth targets to 8.5 per- 8 mass, salon and, increasingly, prestige beauty products. In the quarter, perfume sales rose 44 percent; cent to 9.5 percent at constant exchange, with op- Roberto Cavalli at H&M launched Thursday at 200 stores worldwide, tableware, 21.3 percent; silk and textiles, 18.9 per- erating income projected to be fl at due to unfavor- 12 with wildly enthusiastic reaction from customers. cent, and rtw and fashion accessories, 10.5 per- able exchange rates. cent. Sales of leather goods inched up 1.5 percent, Last month, Hermès unveiled an expanded Paris while watches fell 7.6 percent. fl agship on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 Thomas noted a 15 percent increase in leather now the largest in the world. Thomas said the unit To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. bags was dented by weak sales of canvas bags in is “booming.” In the last quarter, Hermés plans to Asian duty free channels, and he blamed weak- open or renovate nine other branches, including a [email protected], using the individual’s name. ness in Japan for the decline in watch sales. renovated location in Lyon, France, and new bou- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT Hermès’ strong numbers, ahead of expectations, tiques in Moscow and Crans Montana, Switzerland. ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 194, NO. 101. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and December, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October and, November, and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Adidas Profi ts Surge 22 Percent Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return By Emilie Marsh age exchange rates for the three- down 2 percent in the period, or undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: month period, from 244 million 8 percent in euro terms. SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA PARIS — Flexing the synergies euros, or $309.9 million, a year Hainer said Reebok limited 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE of Adidas with its recently ac- earlier. Meanwhile, sales in the its footwear production in order INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit quired Reebok arm helped push quarter slipped slightly to 2.94 to reposition the brand at a www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new up Adidas AG’s third-quarter billion euros, or $4.04 billion, higher price point. The brand’s subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production profits 22 percent. from 2.95 billion euros, or $3.74 sales are expected to increase in correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, The German activewear giant billion, a year ago. Sales in the 2008. “We are continuing to re- please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list beat analysts’ forecasts and said U.S. slipped 8.9 percent. alize material net benefi ts from available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. Thursday it’s on target to meet Gross margins increased 3.6 the Reebok integration process,” If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA profi t goals for 2007. percentage points to 48.6 per- Hainer said. “Our group’s strong 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, “Our group is set for contin- cent. Order backlogs for the margin and earnings improve- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, ued growth in the rest of 2007 and Adidas brand, which analysts ments refl ect our focused com- BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED beyond,” Herbert Hainer, chair- follow as a key indication of fu- mitment to drive long-term sus- MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR man and chief executive offi cer, ture sales, rose 16 percent in the tainable growth.” CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR said in a statement. third quarter on a currency-neu- With major sporting events DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY The company said third-quar- tral basis, the highest improve- such as the Beijing Olympics A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ter profi ts climbed to 298 million ment in nine years, according to and the European Soccer euros, or $409.4 million at aver- the group. Reebok orders were Championships in the lineup for next year, Adidas expects group sales to advance in high 7:L;HJ?I;C;DJ single digits on a currency-neu- Quote of the Week tral basis in 2008. “Next year’s major sporting events will help brand Adidas “Reality can be disappointing.’’ increase market leadership in key regions,” Hainer said. “And — Giorgio Armani

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Penney were down 1.5, 3.8 and 1.8 percent, respectively, hurt % Change % Change % Change The Federal Reserve Chairman said he is somewhat by laggard sales of cold weather apparel. Kohl’s slashed its optimistic when it comes to holiday selling. Bernanke third-quarter outlook to a range of 59 to 60 cents a diluted DEPARTMENT STORES testified in front of Congress’ Joint Economic Committee share, from a previous forecast of 67 to 71 cents a share. on Thursday, saying increased energy prices will cause J.C. Penney said it also remains cautious heading into Bon-Ton -3.2 -9.7 -7.1 1.3 a rise in inflation. He also does not expect the mortgage the holidays. Dillard’s -7.0 -5.0 -7.0 -5.0 crisis to lighten up near term, but amid these economic “Although we have seen our customers respond to calen- Macy’s -1.5 7.7 -2.7 2.4 woes he believes the economy is resilient. dar-related or ‘appointment shopping’ events, we expect the Gottschalks -3.0 1.4 -3.9 -7.8 And despite October same-store sales, promises of challenging retail environment to continue for the foresee- cleaned-up inventories and reiterated guidance have able future,” said Myron E. Ullman 3rd, chairman and ceo. Kohl’s -3.8 4.2 -3.2 -0.6 given Wall Street a glimmer of hope. Nordstrom Inc. continued to underperform, falling Neiman Marcus 8.5 6.5 6.0 4.6 Still, October was a tough month. The ongoing credit 2.4 percent after lowering its third-quarter guidance last Nordstrom -2.4 10.7 3.2 6.6 and foreclosure woes, rising gas prices and unseason- month. But Dana Telsey, president of Telsey Advisory able weather had a negative impact on same-store sales. Group, said Nordstrom’s issues are completely company- J.C. Penney -1.8 8.1 -4.6 -4.0 Given current economic conditions, the mass merchants specifi c and overall the luxury sector remains immune Saks 10.6 9.2 7.7 18.2 continued to outperform the pack. to economic woes. Stage Stores -2.9 -2.5 2.3 -2.6 Of the retailers tracked by WWD, the discounters Saks and Neiman Marcus posted 10.6 percent and 8.5 posted an average same-store sales gain of 2.1 percent percent jumps, respectively. Average: -0.7 3.1 -0.9 1.3 while department stores and specialty retailers fell 0.7 “In each sector, whether it’s luxury or teen retailers, percent and 2.1 percent, respectively. it is the stores in the middle that are hurt most. These SPECIALTY CHAINS The overall weak sales reports pushed the S&P Retail players are not benefi ting from the trade-downs and do Abercrombie & Fitch -2.0 -3.0 -4.0 6.0 Index down 0.3 percent to 429.36, which was steeper than the not have the brand strength for consumers to make sac- broader S&P 500 decline of 0.1 percent to 1,474.77. However, rifi ces for the label like luxury brands,” said Christine Aéropostale 3.0 5.6 1.3 1.7 investors liked what they heard from companies in regard Chen, retail analyst at Needham & Co. American Eagle -3.0 8.0 -2.0 9.0 to inventory levels and went picking through the channel. Chen said she is most worried about American Eagle Ann Taylor -4.2 -0.5 0.5 2.9 As a result, shares of Aéropostale Inc. gained 5 percent to Outfi tters Inc., which reported a 3 percent decline. “They $22.98, Abercrombie & Fitch Co. rose 2.59 percent to $74.50 are in the unfortunate position of being in the middle. Banana Republic -2.0 2.0 -2.0 7.0 and Stein Mart Inc. fi nished the day up 14 percent to $6.33. Teens may opt to buy two basics from Aéropostale in- Bath & Body Works -6.0 14.0 -2.0 1.0 The constant media frenzy over the housing crisis and stead of from Eagle so they can then buy a sweater at Buckle 14.9 6.0 10.9 16.7 gas prices have made it hard for consumers to ignore Abercrombie & Fitch,” she said. these macro issues while shopping, which contributed But American Eagle said it is comfortable with its in- Caché -3.0 11.0 3.0 7.0 to last month’s weak sales, said Patricia Walker, partner ventory mix and content entering the holiday season. Cato -8.0 -5.0 -7.0 2.0 at the consulting fi rm Accenture. “What is interesting is most retailers feel confi dent The Children’s Place 2.0 10.0 -3.0 5.0 that they have cleared their inventory going into the hol- iday season,” Walker said. “There are a lot of positive Chico’s FAS -10.6 -4.1 -8.3 -9.3 We expect the challenging retail pieces within the negative macro outlook. If you look at Christopher & Banks 22.0 -3.0 1.0 2.0 “environment to continue for the small pockets, there are some retailers doing well.” Gap (U.S. stores) -7.0 -4.0 -10.0 2.0 Shares of Gap Inc. are up 5.5 percent, despite neg- Hot Topic -4.0 -7.2 -2.9 -1.1 ative comps across the board at Old Navy, Banana foreseeable future. Republic and Gap stores. Limited Brands -6.0 0.0 -4.0 1.0 — Myron E. Ullman 3rd,” J.C. Penney Co. Inc. “While comparable-store sales were down in October, Mothers Work -3.9 -5.2 -7.0 -3.7 merchandise margins were signifi cantly above last year,” Old Navy -11.0 -11.0 -8.0 -4.0 Unseasonable weather has stifl ed “wear now” fall and said Sabrina Simmons, executive vice president of Gap winter apparel, leaving many retailers with excess inven- Inc. fi nance, in a statement. “The results refl ect our Pacifi c Sunwear -0.8 -7.1 2.7 9.6 tory and forcing early markdowns, according to Retail stated strategy of managing inventory slightly to support Rite Aid 0.4 4.0 0.7 1.0 Metrics. Wal-Mart Stores Inc., J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and margin improvements.” Victoria’s Secret -7.0 14.0 -6.0 0.0 Kohl’s Corp., among others, have already offered door-bust- Chen said it is more important to see Gap get its mar- er specials to attract consumer attention and improve weak gins right than to post positive comps. Walgreens 6.9 11.4 4.7 6.5 traffi c. But while discounting will play a big part this holi- Teen apparel retailers Abercrombie & Fitch Co., Hot Wet Seal -5.4 7.5 -7.0 1.7 day season, most of the sales were planned promotions. Topic Inc. and Pacifi c Sunwear of California Inc. were down Wilsons -21.8 -13.5 -13.0 -0.2 As part of a commitment to save people money, Wal-Mart in October. And while Zumiez Inc. grew 5.1 percent, the com- Zumiez 5.1 15.9 13.9 17.4 kicked off the Christmas season earlier this year with Black pany missed analysts’ expectations of a 6.7 percent gain and Friday prices on fi ve top gift ideas. Similar promotional ac- cut guidance. The skate and surf company now expects full- Average: -2.1 1.9 -2.0 3.4 tivity will continue into December. For October, the mega- year guidance in the range of 92 to 94 cents a diluted share, retailer posted a 0.7 percent increase in same-store sales, down from previous guidance of 97 to 99 cents. MASS MERCHANTS below analysts’ forecast of a 1.1 percent increase. “It’s all about there being no snow,” said analyst The company said while seasonal categories were Jennifer Black, president of the company bearing her BJ’s Wholesale Club 4.8 1.7 3.9 1.4 soft, its inventory is healthy heading into the holidays. name, in a research note. “The comp-store sales would Costco 7.0 2.0 4.0 2.0 Markdowns as a percentage of sales were still lower have been even more had the winter goods comped at Ross Stores -1.0 3.0 0.0 4.0 than planned for the third quarter, even with major the same level as the rest of the store. We believe if the door-buster deals offered this month. weather cools down and snow comes, the company’s sales Stein Mart -3.8 -2.2 -9.1 -5.2 Rival Target Corp. posted a 4.1 percent comps jump, of winter-related equipment and apparel will pick up.” Target 4.1 3.9 1.2 6.1 beating analysts’ expectations of 2.4 percent growth. After reporting a 3 percent jump, Aéropostale raised TJX Cos. 3.0 5.0 2.0 4.0 “Due to strength in the last week of the month, which third-quarter guidance to 46 to 47 cents a diluted share, benefi ted from year-over-year Halloween timing, our from 43 to 45 cents a share. “With shoppers trading down, Wal-Mart (discount stores) 0.7 0.3 0.8 2.8 October comparable-store sales were at the high end of Aéropostale has been able to benefi t, stealing market Average: 2.1 2.0 0.4 2.2 the range provided in our mid-month update,” said Bob share from American Eagle,” Chen said. Ulrich, chairman and chief executive offi cer, in a state- But women’s retailers still can not seem to get it right. Tally: ment. “However, for the second straight month, we expe- AnnTaylor Stores Corp. and Chico’s FAS Inc. reported rienced soft sales in our higher-margin categories.” Off- 4.2 and 10.6 percent declines, respectively. As a result, Up 14 26 24 30 price retailer TJX Cos. Inc. along with wholesale clubs Ann Taylor tempered its fourth-quarter and full-year Flat 0 1 1 1 Costco Wholesale Corp. and BJ’s Wholesale Club Inc. outlook, and Chico’s said third-quarter earnings would Down 27 16 18 12 fared well, climbing 3, 7 and 4.8 percent, respectively. be in the range of 10 to 13 cents a diluted share. Both “The bright spot has been TJX Cos. and the discount- companies blamed warm weather and declining con- Total 41 43 43 43 ers. There is a real opportunity for them to take advan- sumer confi dence for their negative results. SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS

Jessica Simpson in an ad for her Simpson, Tarrant Settle Legal Dispute spring-summer collection. he lawsuit between Jessica Simpson with Camuto. terclaimed against Tarrant, seeking Tand Tarrant Apparel Group has been Camuto said, “The parties have in excess of $100 million for the dam- settled. agreed that each will move forward sep- ages caused by alleged misconduct in The Camuto Group, With You Inc., arately in an effort to focus on their own breaching and abandoning its contrac- Tarrant Apparel Group and all related brands and have dismissed the legal tual obligations under the sublicense for parties have amicably resolved their proceeding in its entirety.” Simpson’s sportswear apparel line. litigation, The Camuto Group said on A lawsuit was fi led in New York State Simpson’s product lines that were Thursday. Camuto is the master license Supreme Court in April 2006 by Tarrant at issue were the Jessica Simpson and owner for Simpson’s sportswear appar- against Simpson and Camuto for $100 Princy names, JS by Jessica and Sweet el lines and With You Inc. is Simpson’s million over Simpson’s alleged failure Kisses by JS. holding company that signed the deal to promote her lines. Camuto coun- — Vicki M. Young ADVERTISING AGE 2007

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B]ORdS`bWaSW\0SbbS`6][SaO\R5O`RS\aQ]\bOQbD>>cPZWaVS`8O\AbcRW\Ob ## % #&]`XO\abcRW\.[S`SRWbVQ][ 6 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007 The Beauty Report Lauder Names Freda President, Chief Operating Offi cer Continued from page one vision. Lauder pointed out that his new brands generated about $2 billion in vol- William’s brother, Gary M. Lauder, and 50, as ceo, it also will tackle the ques- chief operating offi cer has luxury goods ume, and today there are 28 brands gener- William collectively own about 13 per- tion of whether Lauder, 46, will become credentials in that he directed market- ating $7 billion in revenues. cent of the class A common stock and chairman. His father, Leonard A. Lauder, ing and strategic planning at Gucci SpA For the last decade, luxury goods hous- about 78 percent of the class B stock, is currently chairman. from 1986 to 1988. es, particularly in Europe, have recruit- which gives them 70 percent of the vot- Freda’s appointment will take effect Careful not to overwhelm his new ed managers out of P&G and Unilever ing power. The 13 percent class A com- March 3, at which time Lauder will give executive, Lauder said Freda fi rst will to bring a sober, no-nonsense laser-like mon stock is worth about $530 million. up the title of president. embark on a global orientation tour of drive to the management of fashion and The company’s market capitalization is The company has been expected for the prestige beauty leader, then begin beauty brands. While the results from the about $7.9 billion, and the fi rm has an some time to name a successor to Dan his immersion into management. He entire luxury sector could be construed enterprise value of close to $10 billion, Brestle, who has been chief operating of- will be in charge of all operational func- as mixed, Lauder seems to be taking a according to Yahoo Finance. In 2004, the fi cer since Jan. 1, 2005, and, at age 62, had tions, research and development, includ- page from the highly successful playbook Lauders had more than 80 percent of the been thought to be in line for retirement. ing packaging design. Group president of PPR which recruited Robert Polet, voting power, and owned more than 50 He will become vice chairman and presi- Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne will now re- then president of Unilever’s $7.8 bil- percent of the class A common shares. dent of Estée Lauder Cos., North America. In recent months, Wall Street analysts No other changes are expected, a have applauded Estée Lauder’s push spokeswoman said, meaning the other William P. Lauder into international markets, but many top executives will remain in place. and Fabrizio remained concerned about the health of At a time when pressure is mounting Freda its core brands, namely Clinique and the on the beauty group because of consoli- Estée Lauder brand, particularly given dation in its key U.S. department store the weakness in the U.S. department channel, Lauder indicated he recruited store channel. Freda to inject a fresh viewpoint into the For instance, last month in a research company, plus a renewal of disciplined note, Morgan Stanley analyst William thinking and analytical judgment. “I love Pecoriello stated that, despite reinvest- the way he thinks,” Lauder said, referring ments in the fl agship brand and easy to the way Freda approaches opportuni- comparisons with last year, the Estée ties and analytical questions. His combi- Lauder brand’s U.S. retail sales had de- nation of intellectual approach as well as clined 10 percent. emotional understanding “will allow him At an analysts’ meeting earlier this to be successful in our company,” he said. year, Lauder said Clinique and Estée Lauder added that Freda’s back- Lauder account for about 60 percent of ground with P&G, where he is now based the fi rm’s overall net sales. The beauty in Rome, provides a European sense of fi rm has worked to untether itself from global branding. Since Lauder is a com- the department store channel, to some pany rooted in global branding from an extent, by opening additional standalone American vantage, the new combination MAC Cosmetics boutiques; launching its will provide a synergy “that will work makeup artist brand, Bobbi Brown, on well,” Lauder said. Freda also will bring QVC and in the chain Bluemercury, and with him the rigorous approach and rolling out Clinique to all Sephora doors depth of experience at P&G. and to Shoppers Drug Mart in Canada. Asked why he felt it was necessary to But some analysts questioned wheth- recruit outside the company, since the er those efforts are aggressive enough to beauty fi rm has a dugout full of group port to Freda, instead of Lauder, mean- lion ice cream and frozen food division, move the needle. In an Oct. 26 research and division presidents, Lauder ac- ing the new boss also will have oversight to succeed the dynamic and departing report, Bear Stearns analyst Justin Hott knowledged his array of talent and lead- of Bobbi Brown, La Mer, Jo Malone, Domenico De Sole and Tom Ford. wrote, “Even though we like that Estée ership, noting that, in the luxury beauty Darphin and the Aramis and designer Asked why he took the highly unusual [Lauder] is exploring other distribution business, his top executives average 25 fragrances division. International, led step of announcing that Freda was des- channels in the U.S., we worry that these years of experience each. “It brings a by group president Cedric Prouvé, will tined for the ceo job in two years, Lauder are not big enough to offset their heavy great deal of experience,” he said, add- report to Freda, as will Lynn Greene, said companies sometimes set up horse exposure to department stores, which ing there is also a danger of “not see- global president of Clinique. Group pres- races between rival executives and they remain in decline.” ing other opportunities. What Fabrizio ident Phillip Shearer will no longer have often spend too much time jousting for In a report issued this fall, Credit brings is another fl avor to our stew.” responsibility for Clinique. Instead, he advantage over one another. “I wanted to Suisse analyst Filippe Goossens stated Freda also brings a disciplined brand- will pick up responsibility for strategic eliminate the speculation and competi- that department stores account for about building approach that will match up planning, while retaining responsibility tion,” he said. “Let’s focus on the future 70 percent of the beauty fi rm’s domestic with Lauder’s more emotion-oriented for Aveda, Origins, Bumble and bumble, and get everybody ready for that.” business, down from 90 percent a decade technique of brand creation. “We will get Ojon, the corporate online business and And, while Lauder is talking about ago. He wrote, “We would like to see the best of both cultures,” the company new business development. relinquishing the ceo perch, he clearly Estée Lauder step up its initiatives to president said. Brestle will continue to have direct plans on remaining in the center of the continue to reduce its dependence on the In a letter to employees dated today, oversight of the global divisions led by action. He voiced the hope of fi nding the North American department store chan- Lauder described Freda as “a highly tal- group president John Demsey, includ- same spark that illuminated the highly nel, particularly given the weak macro- ented and gifted executive with extensive ing the Lauder fl agship division, MAC creative teamwork of his father and Fred economic outlook for the country.” experience in the consumer products Cosmetics, Prescriptives, Tom Ford Langhammer for 15 years up until 2004. This past year, Lauder has loudly industry. He has a strategic focus, a pas- Beauty and Sean John. Jane Hertzmark “It would be my goal that Fabrizio and trumpeted the firm’s international sion for innovation and a fi nancially disci- Hudis, president of Beauty Bank, also I create a similar partnership to what growth, and on several occasions pub- plined approach. He is a true internation- will report to Lauder. Fred and my father had. That partner- licly chided analysts for looking at the alist with extensive experience in Western The ceo said he has given Brestle ship worked well.” business through a provincial lens. Europe, Asia and Latin America. He leads a special role to oversee the North For his part, Freda said in a statement, After its latest quarterly earnings call on people with a warm, personal style.” American market while it continues to “The Estée Lauder Cos. has extraordi- Oct. 25, Lauder told WWD, “International Freda joined P&G in 1982 and spent a experience tough conditions. The new nary brands and terrifi c opportunities is becoming a larger portion of our busi- decade in the health and beauty care di- role for Brestle will place one top execu- around the world. I am delighted to part- ness that offers a more meaningful return tive over all the different retail business- ner with William Lauder. Together, we on investment.” He later added, “Business Leonard A. es that Lauder pursues in the U.S. and will build upon the growth prospects and outside North America is very strong and Lauder Canada, the same structure it has in every maintain the sterling values for which growing in high-single digits.…Some ana- other country outside the U.S. Because this company is so well respected.” lysts can’t see beyond the U.S. They only North America still comprises 47 percent On the other hand, the mere fact that look at NPD data.” of the company’s $7 billion in volume, the an ex-P&G executive has been picked to Currently about 53 percent of the different brand presidents have dealt take the reins at Lauder is almost certain beauty fi rm’s sales come from interna- with the stores. Now Brestle will oversee to reignite industry speculation about the tional markets, with expectation of the the effort. Lauder said he has given him possibility of Freda’s alma mater one day international share hitting 55 percent by “a mandate to lead our North American acquiring the prestige cosmetics leader. the end of the year. According to Credit business in a more cohesive way.” Lauder promptly drove a stake Suisse’s Goossens, over the next five Asked if Freda’s appointment is part through the heart of that theory. “The years Lauder plans to grow its interna- of a broader cultural change within the single biggest asset of mine and my fam- tional business to 60 to 70 percent of total company, Lauder said: “Tremendous chal- ily is our connection with this company. sales. Goossens wrote, “The higher end lenges have been posed during the last de- It’s our identifi cation and we will be in- of the range appears to be realistic only cade of retail consolidation with a chang- volved in the future of this company, not with a major international acquisition.” ing landscape in prestige.” He called for only fi nancially, but emotionally.” The company — which reported that a more “holistic” approach. “We need In terms of stock ownership, the sales gained 7.3 percent to $1.71 billion to look at the market in a more cohesive future seems clear. According to the for the fi rst quarter ended Sept 30. — has manner,” Lauder said. He implied that company’s most recent proxy statement forecast second-quarter sales growth of the corporation has grown into a complex fi led with the Securities and Exchange 10 to 12 percent. jumble of strategies, pointing out that, Commission last month, Leonard A. — With contributions from when Lauder went public in 1995, fi ve Lauder; his brother, Ronald S. Lauder; Molly Prior WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007 7 WWD.COM The Beauty Report WWD.COM Werbowy, Lancôme Team Up for Charity

ost cosmetics companies employ supermodels Carbonfund.org earlier this year, Lauzat noted. Mto advertise their products — few, if any, actu- “[Our spokespeople] are a new generation — they ally allow those models to create them. That’s a trend are very invested in philanthropic ventures, and Lancôme is bucking with a new color cosmetics collec- it’s important to us to be corporately involved in tion created by Daria Werbowy, one of the faces of the philanthropy, also.” powerhouse brand. Werbowy learned of the center, named for the Werbowy has created a three-stockkeeping-unit, Brazilian artist who also has a studio in Brooklyn, limited edition collection that will be sold to benefi t through the Lancôme team on a brand-related trip Centro Espacial Vik Muniz. The center, based in Rio to Brazil. “We arrived and the next thing I knew I de Janeiro, provides arts programs, education and was in a huge airplane training for young people from that city in an effort hangar watching a samba to keep kids off the streets and keep them away from music and dance per- gangs and drugs. formance put on by the “This collection is a true expression of modern fem- center’s students,” she ininity, and it was really Daria’s passion that inspired recalled. “The kids did the project,” said Odile Roujol, global president of everything — the choreog- Lancôme. “She truly believes in this cause and in fact, raphy, costumes, dancing Daria shared her desire to help children the very fi rst and music. It was incred- time we met her.” ible to see something that Daria Werbowy in the lab and at the Centro Werbowy’s collection, which consists of a $42 eye they put together and were Espacial Vik Muniz. shadow quad, a $24 lip gloss and a $26 lipstick, will so passionate about.” niques to make lipsticks more opaque or begin to roll out in April 2008 globally and is a Sephora With the help of a trans- translucent — something that the former exclusive, except in countries where the beauty giant lator, Werbowy heard art student had a blast with. “I started is absent. For instance, in Germany it will be exclu- about the kids’ paintings to appreciate red lipstick and other sive to Douglas, while in the U.K. it will be exclusive and sculptures, learned makeup colors I generally don’t wear,” to Selfridges. some samba dance moves and did some portrait draw- she said. “You can spend days creating one shade — I “We are extremely pleased to be the exclusive re- ings. The experience, she said, affi rmed for her how didn’t really realize the extent of color creation before. tailer of the Daria Werbowy Collection for Lancôme universal the art process can be. “You don’t need a But I loved the immediacy of being able to mix and — our fi rst exclusive collection [with the brand],” said shared language to express an idea or an emotion,” then try things right away, and I got to keep mixing Betsy Olum, senior vice president of marketing for she said. and changing them until they were perfect.” Sephora. “Daria has a wonderful creative fl air and Inspired by the kids and the colors she saw in So, are there other beauty creation products in awareness of social responsibility — both of which are Brazil, Werbowy headed into the Lancôme labs near Werbowy’s future? Don’t rule it out. While Lauzat evident in this collection. We are confi dent our clients Paris, armed with a scrapbook packed with colors and said no fi rm decisions have been made, the possibility will be as excited about this collection as we are.” fabrics she liked, and spent a day learning about the exists that the collection could be a perennial fund- “Daria has a true passion for the charity, which we makeup creation process. Next, Lancôme let her loose raiser for the center, and that additional sku’s could were very impressed by,” said Eric Lauzat, president in the labs, although the process wasn’t quite what be added in the future. Werbowy is fi rmly behind that of Lancôme in the U.S., who added that Werbowy had Werbowy was expecting. She said she expected a cha- idea, saying that she doesn’t want her creation to be long been eager for a project she could call her own. otic science lab straight out of Hollywood, but found a a one-time offering. “I don’t want it to be a marketing “Also, at Lancôme, our spokespeople don’t just ap- quiet, organized space —which, she said with a laugh, tool — I want it to evolve and to grow in the future,” pear in ads. They are also brand ambassadors.” For she managed to mess up, tout de suite. she said. “It is really about bringing a different kind of instance, Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann was the in- Werbowy began by mixing pigments, then graduat- beauty to people.” spiration behind Lancôme’s eco-chic initiative with ed to adding pearl to eye shadows and learning tech- — Julie Naughton Dior Rolls Dice on Vegas Karan Party Marks Latest Fragrance Launch ior Beauty will open its first freestanding store in North NEW YORK — Donna Karan hosted a few hun- The 18-year-old actress and daughter of rocker DAmerica on Saturday in Las Vegas. dred revelers at her late husband Stephan Lenny Kravitz appeared in this summer’s “No The store, located at the center of the Forum Shops at Weiss’ West Village sculpture studio Wednesday Reservations” and will appear in “The Laws Caesars complex near the Louis Vuitton store — also owned night to fete the launch of her newest wom- of Motion,” which is in post-production. For by corporate parent LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton — is en’s fragrance, Delicious Night. now, however, she’s “just practic- compact, just 350 square feet. But every inch of that space will “We’re out at night, being ing” acting — at SUNY Purchase, be utilized, as it will carry the complete range of Dior’s beauty naughty, having fun, enjoying the where she studies the discipline. offerings, from the brand’s limited edition fashion makeup pal- city tonight,” Karan said of the Missoni, who just got back ettes to its high-end L’Or de Vie skin care lineup. evening’s festivities. “This is a from Spain, where her mother, Terry Darland, general manager of Parfums Christian Dior, fragrance that can carry you from designer Angela Missoni, won North America, added that the space formerly belonged to the day into the evening,” Karan Spanish Glamour’s designer of Wolford: “The space is a step beyond what we’ve been able to said of the scent, “like someone the year award, said she’s work- do with our retail partners. There is a height restriction of 6 feet you want to cuddle up to.” ing on designing her own jewelry in department stores; here, we don’t have those restrictions, so She said the apple shape of line, a small assortment consist- we’re really stepping out of the box. There are 9-foot video walls, the scent’s bottle is important be- ing of gold bracelets, necklaces and a ceiling with runway lights. The whole effect is of watching cause the “apple is signifi cant” to and pendants. a Dior fashion show.” her business. Considering Weiss’ Also at the event was a bevy The store is also packed with interactive color, skin care and bronze apple sculpture in Hudson of top executives from the Estée fragrance displays. “It will be a good place to test certain things,” River Park, the fact that he start- Lauder Cos., which holds the li- said Darland. “It will be interesting to have our own little labo- ed Karan’s beauty business and cense for Donna Karan’s beauty ratory. We can also test our promotions, and we will also do fun, that the party was at the studio, business. Lauder’s chief execu- Vegas-y products — for instance, things that are really bling-y.” “there’s a lot of interconnection tive William Lauder was there, as Las Vegas was chosen for many reasons, said Darland — for him and me,” the designer said. was the fi rm’s chief operating of- among them, extremely high foot traffi c, a host of high rollers The soiree, which featured a fi cer, Dan Brestle. Lauder group and a central space. “Also, Vegas is a huge city for Dior,” said live performance by hip-hop art- Donna president Patrick Bousquet- Darland. “The three largest Dior fashion boutiques are located ist Common, saw a host of celeb- Karan Chavanne was in attendance, in Las Vegas, and we have huge beauty businesses with Sephora, rities and VIPs, including Marisa as was Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, Neiman Marcus and Macy’s. It’s a Dior town.” Tomei, Christina Ricci, Zoe Kravitz, Rumer president of Lauder’s Aramis and Designer Darland declined to discuss sales projections, although in- Willis and Rashida Jones. Margherita Missoni Fragrances division; Carol Russo, the di- dustry sources estimated that Dior would do at least $1 million was in attendance, as were Olivia Palermo, vision’s senior vice president and general in sales in the boutique’s fi rst year. Ali Larter, Dabney Mercer and Arden Wohl. manager of sales and marketing in North “If the reception is good, we’re certainly open to doing more Ricci said her favorite men’s fragrance is America, and Matthew Teri, vice president freestanding stores else- Unleaded, a scent Karan launched in 1995. of corporate product development. Inside the Vegas where, said Darland. “It’s discontinued, so I have to fi nd it online. “It’s trending on the same volume of the ini- store. To kick off the store’s I have to stash it for my future husband,” tial launch,” Bousquet-Chavanne said, compar- fi rst day and soft launch, said Ricci, who added no one in her life cur- ing early results of Delicious Night to Karan’s the brand is sending one rently fi ts that description. “I wasted it once Be Delicious scent launch three years ago. of its DiorShow makeup on the wrong guy.” “This will enhance the status of the brand.” artists, Everett Suttle, Ricci, who is in the fi lm “Penelope” due He added the scent is “overachieving,” who will offer makeovers out in January and just fi nished shooting given its business plan. Industry sources and beauty tips to custom- “Speed Racer” in September, says she’s not estimate the scent, which was launched at ers. A formal grand open- working on anything but her “tan” — in her Bloomingdale’s last month and will be car- ing party will be held in Los Angeles backyard — at the moment. ried there exclusively until Jan. 1, could gen- December, said Darland. Kravitz said she was there to support erate fi rst-year retail sales of $20 million. — J.N. Karan and take in the Common performance. — Matthew W. Evans KARAN PHOTO BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN KRISTEN SOMODY PHOTO BY KARAN 8 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007 The Beauty Report Ulta Cracks Beauty’s Class System

Inside an Ulta store. Inset: The entrance to a New Jersey store.

By Molly Prior and Faye Brookman prestige brands kicking and screaming into that format. A recent visit It’s been a long process that Ulta has been dogged about.” to several Ulta n December 1999, while waiting at the airport for an Kirby’s own account confi rms that struggle. “The be- units revealed a Iearly morning fl ight from New York to Dallas for her hind-the-scenes look at prestige was really knocking on clean shopping fi nal interview with Ulta Salon, Cosmetics & Fragrance the doors of the brands over eight years,” she said. Her environment with about fi ve sales associates strolling each Inc.’s then-chairman Sam Parker, Lyn Kirby penned a intention when meeting with prestige players was to de- store. Signs touting promotions hung in Ulta’s large win- vision for beauty retailing that hadn’t existed before. tail changes that had taken place in suburbs across the dows to entice passersby. The original stores had salons Her ambition was to reposition Ulta from a discount country, as convenience-minded women began seeking at the front, but hair services are now at the back of the store into a democratic beauty experience that housed out beauty in more places, at times at the expense of de- store, so shoppers fi rst see the retail area. mass, salon and prestige brands under one roof. That vi- partment stores. At the end of each conversation, Kirby The retailer is highlighting Bare Escentuals’ Pure sion marked a departure for the industry, which has had a said she and her team would remind prestige and salon Platinum Collection, an Ulta exclusive, while also giv- long tradition of separating products into retail classes. executives, “When you are ready, we will be ready.” ing ample space to its private label line of mineral When Kirby took over as president and chief execu- Ulta began to gain traction with prestige fragrance makeup. Ulta’s private label display, which used to re- tive offi cer, Ulta’s assortment was heavy on mass beau- brands in late 2002, and by 2004 started to attract up- semble a musical organ at the entrance, has been re- ty brands and had a smattering of salon products and scale cosmetics brands to the mix. placed by a smaller fi xture situated off to the side. The gray-market prestige goods. entryway now touts promotions and new scents. For in- Recalling her early impression of the retailer, Kirby stance, Ulta featured a 73-piece makeup collection in a said, “There was no clear path to reposition the compa- train case priced at $24.99. ny from where it was into a multibillion-dollar business ADDING UP BEAUTY In most stores, the left side is assigned to mass mar- that would have access to salon and prestige brands.” ket beauty lines, including L’Oréal’s HIP, Max Factor, Now, eight years later, her impromptu mission state- Cover Girl, Revlon, Rimmel, Almay, Prestige, NYC, ment has served as the framework of the fi rm’s evolution Bare Escentuals, which propelled its business by selling NYX and Physicians Formula. into a full-service purveyor of mass, salon and, increasing- its premium products on QVC and via infomercials, began There is also space for emerging trends, such as an ly, prestige beauty products, and its recent initial public distributing to Ulta a decade ago. Kirby acknowledged area dedicated to glow moisturizers. Makeup mirrors and offering. Ulta began trading on the Nasdaq on Oct. 25, with that Bare Escentuals’ success may have helped attract ad- beauty appliances, often a diffi cult category to merchan- shares opening at $33 a share, up from its initial offering ditional upmarket brands to Ulta. “People know that Ulta dise, and a number of impulse items, such as iPod speak- price of $18 a share. Shares closed at $30 Thursday. knows how to develop a prestige brand,” she said. ers, are situated behind mass beauty. The rear of the store “We have repositioned Ulta from a discount beauty Diane Miles, Bare Escentuals’ president of whole- is devoted to the salon, where there are usually about store to a total experience with all the attributes of a sale and international, said the two brands have eight chairs. The area is relatively quiet in the day, but category killer — size, real estate and marketing — with evolved since linking arms. For instance, Bare buzzes at nights and on weekends. Near the salon are the the service of a department store,” Kirby said. Escentuals entered Ulta essentially as a bath and body professional brands including Rusk, Sebastian, Frédéric Wendy Liebmann, president of consulting fi rm WSL line, but in the last fi ve years has repositioned itself Fekkai, Biolage, Joica and Abba. Close by, there’s a skin Strategic Retail, said, “Ulta is a concept that is ab- as a mineral makeup line, said Miles. She added that care collection stocked with venerable brands, including solutely ripe for consumers,” adding that it caters to Ulta’s real estate strategy brings prestige products to Dermablend, Murad, Kinerase and Exuviance. women’s propensity to shop across all channels. places where competitors aren’t typically located. As There are also pricy hair appliances, complete with The Romeoville, Ill.-based retailer has built a chain of for why Ulta seems to attract emerging brands, Miles a table of more than 20 blow-dryers plugged in and about 236 stores by planting its fl ag in suburban off-mall said, “You don’t have to have a big infrastructure to do ready to sample. Mass merchants, such as Target, have shopping centers. Kirby said the chain plans to end the business with Ulta, or Sephora, because they provide borrowed this approach. year with 250 doors and sees the potential to have 1,000- the sales force. For department stores, a brand needs a The right side of the store and the center is where Ulta plus stores over the next decade. She would not comment certain critical mass to distribute to them.” merchandises its prestige brands. Like Sephora, Ulta has on Ulta’s future rate of expansion, but noted, “We will Given the challenges facing U.S. department stores, become a launching pad for up-and-coming lines, such as open 50 stores this year, which is up from 31 last year.” Ulta offers an alternative point of distribution. Randi Amazing Cosmetics and Joey NY. Other brands include As Ulta expands, so will its competitors. For in- Shinder, founder and ceo of FusionBeauty and Clean Boujois, Smashbox and Urban Decay, as well as department stance, Bare Escentuals — the mineral makeup brand Perfume, said, “Prestige brands need alternative chan- store brands like Elizabeth Arden and Christian Dior. that distributes to Ulta — has earmarked a long-term nels to grow their business, because the opportunities for Fragrances are displayed on the wall and in nearby target of 400 branded boutiques. Meanwhile, beauty distribution are so limited.” Shinder began distributing aisles. It appears that there has been a slight reduc- apothecary Bluemercury aims to reach 300 stores by her Clean fragrances to Ulta about fi ve years ago, and the tion in scents to make room for a larger men’s groom- 2010, and Sephora, which plans to end the year with FusionBeauty line there nearly three years ago. “We see ing area. Ulta prominently features fragrance introduc- more than 180 units, continues to expand its concept huge growth at Ulta,” she said. tions and has been touting Britney Spears Believe. Ulta in J.C. Penney Co. Inc. department stores. The hyper- Its cross-pollinated mix seems to be resonating with con- also reserves some fl ex space to expand on hot catego- growth of stores may present a challenge for Ulta, as sumers. For the fi scal year ended Feb. 3, Ulta’s sales were ries or those that can drive impulse sales. it enters markets where its competitors, particularly $755.1 million, up from $579.1 million in the prior year. The stores are a far cry from Ulta’s origins in 1990. Sephora, have already set up shop. Industry sources Kirby — who began her career at Avon in Australia, The retailer was originally called Ulta 3 (for price, se- speculated that a 1,000-unit store base may also eat later working for the direct seller in New York — said lection and service) and was created by drugstore exec- away at Ulta’s comparable store growth. through her experience, she learned the power of mer- utives, namely Dick George and Terry Hanson, who cut Ulta’s leg up, asserted Kirby, is its democratic ap- chandising through print. That said, she has increased their teeth at Osco Drug and American Drug Stores. A proach to beauty and its off-mall locations, which allow the frequency of Ulta catalogues and worked to reposi- friend at a hair design school told Hanson of the need customers to park near the front of the store and avoid tion them from a discounting vehicle to a tool for em- for one store that met all beauty needs. traipsing through the mall passing other beauty retailers phasizing value. Kirby, who left her post as president The original stores were more mass-oriented, because along the way. of Sears’ now-defunct beauty venture Circle of Beauty those are the vendors that could be secured. At fi rst, the Kirby said Ulta’s locations allow a shopper to dash into to join Ulta, also saw the challenges facing department executives had trouble getting shoppers to understand the the store to replenish her shampoo and their layouts en- stores. “For prestige brands, Ulta offers a terrifi c incre- concept, which was originally based primarily on price. courage impulse shopping once there. Ulta occasionally mental sales opportunity,” she said, noting some consum- But shoppers could fi nd many of the same items at dis- does deviate from its real estate strategy. For instance, ers have defected from department stores and, in her counts elsewhere. As the chain evolved, appliances grew the retailer is building a store on Chicago’s bustling State view, younger shoppers never truly adopted the channel. in importance along with the salon services. The “3” was Street, which is slated to open early next year. Kirby, who “We will always continue to grow our mass brands, but dropped from the name in 1999. Kirby’s early-morning de- eschews the word fl agship, said the multilevel State Street our fastest growth opportunity will be in prestige.” cree inked in the airport that year has helped to establish store is slightly larger than Ulta’s prototype of 10,000 In a bid to reaffi rm its move upmarket, Ulta began re- Ulta as a stand-alone brand, said vendors. Tom Winarick, square feet. Older stores are generally 8,500 square feet. modeling its store base two years ago, and expects to have president of Prestige Cosmetics, said, “Ulta has brought Ulta’s most ambitious feat has been attracting pres- completed 25 remodels by this holiday, said Kirby. The re- more of the European retail model to the U.S. market, tige brands. WSL’s Liebmann noted, “Ulta has had to drag models mirror Ulta’s new stores. where mass and prestige coexist under one roof.” WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007 9

WWD.COM Goldfaden Gets Into Skin Care Maybelline Enters Minerals ary Goldfaden, M.D., Gwho has practiced By Andrea Nagel Maybelline executives would not comment dermatology for 40 years, on sales projections for Mineral Power, but has become a true believ- aybelline New York is out to prove Fondu said, “This is the single biggest launch er in the power of red tea. Mthat timing isn’t everything. we have had on the brand.” That is why he is bring- Three years after mineral make- Industry sources estimate Mineral ing the ingredient to skin up entered the mass market, Power could generate $50 million in fi rst- care with the launch of a the country’s largest mass year sales, supported by an ad campaign preventative and restorative cosmetics brand, which is budgeted at $50 million. Print and TV line, called Goldfaden. owned by L’Oréal, is enter- ads are scheduled for January. Goldfaden was searching ing the mix. Executives at Mass mineral beauty sales for a topical antiaging, anti- Maybelline acknowledge only account for about 20 per- oxidant ingredient and dis- its less-than-timely launch, cent of overall mineral sales, covered the benefi ts found which follows close to half- Fondu said, which she esti- in red tea — also known as a-dozen brands into the esti- mated to be near $400 million. rooibos — from his mother- mated $80 million mass miner- Products are largely sold in in-law, who stocked boxes

als category, including Physicians spas, salons and specialty beauty of the tea in her cupboard. MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY Formula (the mass market pioneer), stores by brands such as Jane Iredale He later learned that she Select items from Goldfaden. L’Oréal Paris and Neutrogena. Even and Bare Escentuals. had discovered this tradi- Walgreens, noted several industry observ- “When you really evaluate the level of tional secret through her South African caretaker, who used the ers, has a private label version of minerals purchase outside the trade channel we are ingredient for its nutrients and antioxidant benefi ts. with its Isadora brand. operating in, there is a big opportunity “It is proven that red tea had more than twice the anti- But Karen Fondu, president of Above: Maybelline Mineral to recruit consumers outside of our oxidant benefi ts of green tea,” said Goldfaden, who founded Maybelline New York, said doing it Power. Below: A tower display. channel,” said Cheryl Vitali, senior vice the family-run business now run by his son Robert, the chief right rather than doing it fi rst was president at Maybelline New York. executive offi cer, and daughter Lisa, director of marketing. important. The brand’s launch According to Euromonitor, “Not only does it have extremely high levels of antioxidants into minerals, she said, which will Maybelline leads mass makeup compared to green tea, but it has one of the most potent of all take place in January, marks the sales with $808 million in sales antioxidants called super oxide dismutase. It’s something in fi rst time a mineral line will pro- for 2006, in front of L’Oréal Paris tea that acts as a protective barrier against environmental vide a total beauty look, since it with $720 million and Procter & damage and free radicals. Once you pass the age of 25, the touches fi ve cosmetics segments: Gamble’s Cover Girl with $645 amount starts depleting, so it needs to be added externally.” foundation (Natural Perfecting million in sales. Launching in January at Studio at Fred Segal in Los Angeles, Foundation), pressed powder Jane Iredale, the founder of Goldfaden’s skin care line includes 18 items designed to act as (Finishing Veil Powder), conceal- her eponymous mineral makeup cleansing, moisturizing and treatment products. While the per- er (Natural Perfecting Concealer), brand, is a proponent of mass centage of organic red tea in each individual product varies, loose powder (Natural Perfecting manufacturers entering the cat- the formula is a blend of botanicals and nutriceutical solutions Powder Foundation) and blush egory, as long as they do it right. from his medical practice, such as hyaluronic acid, which is (Naturally Luminous Blush). “The more people who know used in fi llers; acetyl hexapeptide-3, a topical used to treat deep Moreover, the technology within about and use mineral make- facial lines, and ruby crystals used in microdermabrasion. Mineral Power, as the line is called, up, the better,” Iredale said. Items in the line include a Pure Power Red Tea antioxidant uses triple refi ned micro minerals “However, there are many that are complex, a serum designed to make the skin more radiant and and is talc-, oil- and fragrance-free, not true to the segment. It should act as a protective antioxidant barrier. The formula is com- setting it apart from competitors. be talc-free, and free of synthetic posed of the highest concentration of red tea, in addition to Of all the items, the team points to dyes and fragrances. Keep it as hyaluronic acid and distilled water. Another item is the Instant the liquid foundation as the item clean as possible. In the end, peo- Face Lift, designed to tighten, smooth and lift the skin and com- with the most potential to drive ple are being informed that this is posed of red tea, acetyl hexapeptide-3 and hyaluronic acid. consumers to the brand. the way to go. They are trying it Items range in price from $65 for the 3-in-1 Daily Clarity “We know many people have not out and seeing a difference.” Anti-Blemish Treatment for oily to combination skin to $125 tried mineral makeup because they Mineral Power will be merchan- for the Resurrection Intensive Nutrient Moisture Serum. are loyal foundation users. This dised within the Maybelline section Currently the items are available online on goldfaden.com. product really hasn’t been made of the cosmetics wall, as well as in Industry sources estimate Goldfaden to bring in between $1 available in this form, so we’re ex- display towers, and will feature ex- million and $3 million in fi rst-year retail sales. cited to bring new people into the tensive educational material. All — Michelle Edgar category this way,” said Fondu. items are priced at or below $9.99. L’Oréal, Foundation Raise $350K for Cancer Research By Rachel Brown quent Legends Gala in New York. “I am one of the few women ’Oréal Paris and the Ovarian who will buy a dress they haven’t LCancer Research Foundation tried on,” mused Hamilton just gave casual Angelenos a reason to before running to bid again on the dress up — and open their wallets dress after being told someone out- — Wednesday night with a silent auc- matched her by $100. “I have bid so tion and reception that added an- much, you have no idea,” she said other $350,000 to an already fruitful in a mad dash. decadelong partnership. L’Oréal Paris and OCRF have A crowd of 300 at the “Night of raised in excess of $13 million since Hope,” including hosts L’Oréal Paris they originally paired up in 1997. president Carol Hamilton, Harper’s After a predecessor event called Bazaar editor in chief Glenda Bailey the Millennium Dresses Gala was and L’Oréal spokeswomen Diane held in 1999, the duo in 2002 threw Keaton, Andie MacDowell, Eva the fi rst Legends Gala, which netted Longoria and Kerry Washington, $2.8 million for medical research sipped Champagne and gazed at the last year, and made an initial bian- multicolored chandeliers adorning nual stop in Los Angeles two years the venue, Murano Restaurant in ago to the tune of $250,000. West Hollywood, Calif. They mingled Hamilton, who spent a mere 24 between items up for bid, many of Diane Keaton, Andie MacDowell hours in Los Angeles before head- which were placed throughout sever- and Kerry Washington; Rachel Zoe; ing back east, declared the speedy al rooms in illuminated clear plastic Jaime Pressley, and L’Oréal’s trip was worthwhile to galvanize display cases. Carol Hamilton with Eva Longoria. West Coast efforts to help fi ght ovar- MacDowell, who chose a deep ian cancer. “The turnout is wonder- purple Vivienne Westwood gown for the occasion, OCRF almost as shopping excursions and, with Vera ful…and really shows how much the industry, how couldn’t take her eyes off a Max Studio dress donat- Wang, Chanel, Roberto Cavalli and Louis Vuitton much L.A. and how much our celebrity partners are ed by designer Leon Max and his wife, Ame Austin, among those donating goods, why not? For the eve- supporting the cause,” she said. “And it is a great and valued, along with boots and a gift certifi cate, at ning, Hamilton was outfitted in a strapless pink party, too.” $1,000. “I will arm-wrestle someone to the ground be- Carolina Herrera number she picked up in 2005 and Elizabeth Howard, chief executive officer of cause I want it that bad,” she warned half-jokingly. was vying for a teal taffeta and satin Donna Karan OCRF, had a simple wish for the next fund-raiser: Hamilton has treated the fund-raising events for gown in a svelte size 4 to possibly wear at a subse- “Hopefully, a lot of progress will be made by then.” PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007

The HBA Report WWD.COM Spas Look to Improve Water Quality

By Kavita Daswani David Fowler, president and chief executive of Wellness Enterprises Inc. of Gainesville, Fla., a company that makes high-end shower and drinking LOS ANGELES — After having perfected their ambience, treatments and re- water fi lters, agreed that the spa industry was waking up to the prospect of tail offerings, spas are now turning to a fundamental of the industry: water. offering a higher quality of water. A growing clutch of high-end spas across the country are realizing “We want to change the way water is used in the spas,” said Fowler. “We that if they want to offer the purest and fi nest of everything to their want to eliminate any health hazard to the hair and skin that may be present clients, that has to extend to the quality of the water used in showers, in existing water systems.” Jacuzzis and hydrotherapy treatments. His Wellness Shower is designed to reduce the amount of chlorine in water “It’s really about responding to consumers,” said Jennifer Lynn, spa and infuses it with volcanic minerals. As a result, the hair and skin is softer director of Qua Baths & Spa at the Caesars Palace Hotel and Casino in while the shower remains clean and sanitized. The product has been avail- Las Vegas. “Of all the industries out there, the spa industry is very con- able to the public, retailing for $249, on the company’s Web site and through scientious. We’re looking out for the health and well-being of the con- distributors. But it has now come to the attention of spa directors, as well. sumer, and in order to do that we have to look at the health and well- “We are in fi nal discussions with top-name spas in the country, and all of being of our own business, including responding to water, and being a them have given us a strong reception,” said Fowler. “Each one wants to do little more green and eco-conscious in the way we conduct business.” the same thing: put a dozen or so fi lters in the facility, test them out and then Spa managers are taking a two-pronged approach: One is to consider start selling them in their retail areas.” fi tting showerheads with fi lters designed to neutralize the chlorine or Eventually, the emphasis will shift to tub-based treatments as well. bromine the water is treated with; secondly, they are considering re- “Health through water is what spa means,” said Philip Klement, vice presi- vamping their systems so that hydrotherapy treatments, which involve dent of sales and marketing at Sanijet. “When it comes to the use of baths, immersion, use water that is as pure and nonchlorinated as possible. there are incredible treatments that have been designed for the healing use of Denise Vitiello, spa director of the Mandarin Oriental in New York, water. But the vessels that are being used are not providing a good says she is considering some options for the personal shower rooms, A look inside or safe foundation on which to build these treatments.” vitality pools, amethyst crystal steam rooms and ‘experience’ show- a Wellness His company is working on a technology that strips the chemicals ers in the luxury space. The facility recently launched its $300,000 Thai showerhead. out of water to purify it, but using a high-volume setting that’s necessary Yoga Suite, which includes a custom-made tub from Dallas-based Sanijet, for the many gallons needed for a hydrotherapy treatment. He said it where the water is purifi ed with natural herbs and aromatherapy oils with- would essentially require the insertion of a fi ltering device in the water out any extra chlorine added. supply line. Klement anticipates having the technology ready by 2008. “We really do walk the walk in recognizing that it has to be a truly results- “When the idea is presented to spa directors, it’s almost like an oriented bathing experience,” said Vitiello. epiphany,” he said. “It makes all the sense in the world. They know that Next on her agenda is to look at various options to dechlorinate the water chlorine is not a good thing for the skin, and that putting chlorinated in showers. water back on top of a newly exfoliated body doesn’t make sense. Spa “We are trying it out slowly,” she said, conceding that chlorine can negate clients use pure and expensive essential oils poured into a tub with 80 the therapeutic effects of the treatments. “But there is emphasis out there in the gallons of chlorinated water which dilutes and neutralizes the effective- industry where people are more sensitive to what’s happening with their water.” ness of the oils. Water fi ltration will be a transforming trend in bathing.”

The Action by Anthony for Men line. increase in quarterly skin care sales at ICP. The fi rm also said it named Lance Patterson vice president of sales for its fragrance division last month. In his new SNIPPETS post, Patterson will oversee the sales operations of the EFFICIENCY EFFORT: Procter & Gamble Professional Creed and Hanae Mori businesses. Previously, Patterson Care, a division of Procter & Gamble Co., is worked at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. reorganizing its salon sales division. The move, which will eliminate 60 sales and educational positions, MARY KAY FIGHTS: As the offi cial beauty sponsor will affect the Wella, Sebastian, Graham Webb and for “The 41st Annual CMA Awards,” Mary Kay has Back to Basics brands in an effort to better serve partnered with country music artists who were asked individual salon segments. Earlier this year P&G to donate their kiss prints as part of the “A Kiss for announced plans to restructure its national accounts Country” philanthropic campaign to help stop domestic Anthony Logistics Seeks and distributors within the salon sector. violence. As part of the national charity campaign that was unveiled by Martina McBride on Tuesday, WEST COAST WONDER: Several items under the ethnic more than 25 top country artists, including Reba Piece of the Action brand Barc will now be sold at Studio at Fred Segal in McEntire, Sara Evans, Miranda Lambert and George Santa Monica, Calif. Barc’s Cutting Up shaving cream Strait, auctioned off their kiss prints to benefi t the Mary NEW YORK — Anthony tion features the 2.5-oz. All and Bump Down razor-bump relief products, which Kay Ash Charitable Foundation programs committed to Logistics for Men has cre- Purpose Facial Moisturizer are designed for African-American and Hispanic men, ending domestic violence. Kay will donate $20,000 for ated a line of seven skin for $25. are slated to enter the store Nov. 15. Often considered each participating artist to women’s shelters nationwide. care products called Action “There’s a segment of the a beauty mecca, Studio adds some cachet to Barc’s Fans can also bid on their favorite artist kiss prints on by Anthony For Men that’s market that had been using distribution. The brand is sold in 150 retailers, uBid.com, where 100 percent of proceeds will go to meant for exclusive distri- our products for years and including Ricky’s NYC and New London Pharmacy. the Mary Kay Ash Charitable Foundation. bution in Barneys New York were pretty ingredient-savvy,” flagships. Sosnick said in a recent in- MILLER HARRIS DEAL: British fragrance marketer Miller DOT-COM SPACE: Beauty.com, which plans to wrap up a The products, which terview, describing “Baby Harris has signed a U.S. distribution deal with Old relaunch of its Web site prior to the holidays, has turned reached Barneys in late Boomer-type guys. They want- Greenwich, Conn.-based Gary Farn Ltd. Miller Harris, to a bricks-and-mortar approach to bolster awareness October, have gotten off to a ed something a little more so- which was founded in 2000 by perfumer Lyn Harris, — at least for one day. The company, which is wholly quick start, ac- phisticated and was previously distributed in the U.S. by Intertrade owned by Drugstore.com, opened a pop-up shop cording to the this is the answer Europe. The union with Gary Farn is designed to (dubbed the Around the Clock Beauty.com Shop) on firm’s founder, to that.” widen distribution of the Miller Harris brand in U.S. Fifth Avenue at 23rd Street in Manhattan between the Anthony Sosnick. In addition to specialty store doors, where its distribution has, to date, hours of 6 a.m. and 10 p.m. on Thursday. Founders of Industry sources the moisturizer, been highly limited. Plans call for the brand to reach beauty brands, like Ted Gibson, Allison Raffaelle, Susan estimate that, the Action line additional specialty retail locations, including Saks Fifth Posnick and Peter Thomas Roth, spent time at the based on results features Face Avenue stores, by spring. Two years ago, Miller Harris, space to offer one-on-one consultations. While no beauty so far, the Action Scrub, $25 for which markets more than 20 scents, as well as bath products were for sale in the space, unless one logged line could gen- 6 oz.; Foaming and body care products and candles, opened a 215- on to Beauty.com from one of the available terminals, erate first-year Face Wash, $22 square-foot in-store boutique on the main cosmetics visitors to the shop did get free products — by scooping retails sales of for 3.3 oz., and fl oor of Saks Fifth Avenue’s Manhattan fl agship. them out of a big bin. Makeovers and touch-ups were $250,000. a 2-in-1 shave also available at themed beauty stations. Action is de- cream and after ICP NUMBERS: International Cosmetics & Perfumes signed to have shave, $25 for Inc. reported fi rst-quarter sales of $4.5 million, a 7.1 GERMAIN LAUNCH: Michel Germain has expanded his a more upscale positioning 6 oz. There’s also Rescue percent increase from $4.2 million in the same period eponymous fragrance business with the launch this and more advanced ingre- Eyestick, $25 for 0.35 oz.; a year ago, citing strength in the fi rm’s Creed business week of his second men’s fragrance, dubbed Sexual dients than the other lines Rescue Gel Treatment, $38 and expanded distribution of the Beauty by Clinica Fresh Pour Homme, at Bloomingdale’s on 59th Street the firm markets, such as for 1.6 oz., and Restructuring Ivo Pitanguy brand. ICP, the privately held, New York- in Manhattan. To mark the launch, 18 men dressed Anthony Sport, Solution Shampoo, $20 for 8 oz. based distributor that markets the Hanae Mori, Creed in underwear and white terry bathrobes sported the Based and Body Essentials, Distribution of Action and Beauty by Clinica Ivo Pitanguy brands in the U.S., fragrance both inside and outside the store Thursday. according Sosnick. includes Barneys locations added that profi ts increased by 12 percent during the “This is designed to be the daytime version of my For instance, the Action here, in San Francisco, quarter ended Sept. 30. “This was a strong quarter, classic men’s scent [Sexual Pour Homme], which has line features a 1.6-oz. High Boston, Seattle, Chicago, during which our team produced excellent results a crispy, cool sexiness and fresh scent to it, while also Performance Moisturizer Dallas and Beverly Hills. without a major product launch,” Emmanuel Saujet, incorporating that sexy character in the undertones due for $40 — which includes in- Plans for a wider rollout out- chief executive offi cer of ICP, said in a statement. to [a] blend of aphrodisiacs,” said Germain. The new gredients like aqua cacteen, side the Barneys locations Distribution of Beauty by Clinica Ivo Pitanguy, a nine- scent could generate retail sales of $50,000 this week, peptides and carrot root — have not been discussed, ac- item skin care line, was expanded within the Neiman according to industry sources, who added that Germain’s while the original Anthony cording to Sosnick. Marcus chain, a move that helped drive a 35 percent business could exceed $15 million in revenues next year. Logistics for Men collec- — Matthew W. 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FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION contact Carolyn Kremins, VP/Publisher (212) 286-3833 or [email protected] 12 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007 Wild About Cavalli: H&M L By Sharon Edelson ternoon, items began appearing Roberto Cavalli greets his on eBay, including the gold se- elebrity worship combined with op- fans in Manhattan. quin and pearl minidress, which Cportunism Thursday at the launch of the Web site said was “sold out the Roberto Cavalli at H&M collection. worldwide,” with an asking price A crowd gathered outside the retail- of $700. er’s Fifth Avenue and 51st Street fl ag- “I’m shocked at how women ship, where the designer exited from a can be,” said customer Piya black town car at about 9:15 a.m. “I got Mehra. “I didn’t get anything in Roberto’s cigar!” shouted a young woman my size and I’ve been here since who had been waiting on line since 7 p.m. 3 a.m.” Austine Graff was disap- Wednesday. “It fell down when he stood pointed too. “It’s mayhem,” she here. I waited until he walked away then said. “Everything’s already taken. picked it up and put it in a plastic ziplock I got here at 9:45 a.m.” bag. I’m going to sell it on eBay. It’s open Renee Hong was surprised by to all bidders.” the intensity, saying, “I just came Indeed, it seemed consumers couldn’t to check it out. I didn’t expect get enough of Cavalli — be it his collec- people to fi ght.” tion or his cigar remnant. H&M’s Sandberg said there Cavalli’s line was distributed to 200 were still garments left, but not H&M stores worldwide, compared with in all sizes. “There’s such a limit- 250 for the retailer’s collabora- ed amount of product,” she said. tion with Viktor & Rolf, 400 “They called me from [H&M] for Stella McCartney and in Hong Kong and London,” 800 for Karl Lagerfeld, Cavalli said. “After one or two H&M’s first designer hours everything was sold out. foray. The line is in This never happened. You have 10 U.S. stores. to write how Americans love me. “It’s been four Maybe they feel that I’m crazy years since we like them. Maybe they see that started the col- I’m simple. I was born simple laborations” with and I want to die simple.” designers, H&M In Los Angeles, the collec- spokeswoman tion was offered in three stores: Lisa Sandberg Sunset Plaza in West Hollywood, said. “We’ve re- South Coast Plaza in Costa ally taken the time Mesa and Beverly Center in Los to learn into what Angeles. Lines at the Sunset stores to put the col- Plaza location started forming lection.” The scene in Paris. more than two hours before the When the designer 10 a.m. opening and extended entered the store he the length of the storefront. The seemed surprised by the store beefed up staff from its typ- thunderous applause from sales ical 15 members to 45 to handle associates assembled on the second- the crowds. level mezzanine overlooking the main Once the doors swung open fl oor. at the Sunset Plaza store, the H&M estimated that 250 people waited Cavalli racks were picked clean. to enter the Fifth Avenue fl agship when A line extended from the dress- it opened at 10 a.m. Shoppers ran to the ing room to the middle of the racks, pushing, shoving and jostling any- store as staffers rushed to replen- one and anything that stood between them ish the goods. All the women’s and their animal-print quarry. jewelry and long dresses were Cavalli surveyed the mayhem from a wiped out by 10:30 a.m. safe distance on an escalator above the Mariann Porretta was one of main fl oor. “I feel like a rock star,” he said. the fi rst to complete her purchas- “We love him,” said Frances Stewart, es: two bags of tops, underwear, who with her mother, Rachel Baldwin, jeans and one sheer leopard- had been waiting for 14 hours at the New print dress, for just over $500. York flagship when Cavalli appeared. Paula Malerba, a stay-at-home “Tell me what time you were here since?” mom who worked in the fashion the designer demanded. “Tell me how industry, said the Cavalli collab- much you love me.” oration was one of H&M’s best The crowd obediently responded, “We designer efforts. Her only disap- love you.” Cavalli returned the affection. pointment was that she couldn’t “I love you, too. You’re the best.” buy more because items were Cavalli said he wondered at the be- sold out. ginning of the design process “what the Actress Michelle Trachtenberg young people want from me.” He conclud- was shopping for her friend, ed that they “expect to have the Cavalli Lydia Hearst, who modeled the style. Shoppers know already what they Cavalli line for H&M, and re- want to buy. They know fashion.” quested that Trachtenberg buy Nancy Gregg was among the adoring Scouring the Eyeing the zebra her a beaded dress and a fake fur fans. “I have it all,” she said of his de- racks in Berlin. prints in Paris. capelet, which didn’t appear to signs. “We wear all his lines,” added her be in stock. “I hope she won’t be niece, Betty Simpson, who drove from mad at me,” Trachtenberg said. Maryland to be one of the fi rst people on line. For herself, she was eyeing a black trench. Sales were strong around the world, especially the women’s line featuring red- Judy Starkman, who directs commercials and is a jeweler, said she would have carpet dresses, tuxedos and accessories, said Jennifer Uglialoro, an H&M spokes- spent more if the racks had been more plentiful. But she got a good workout. “I will woman. tell you who the tigers are, they are the shoppers,” she said. “I don’t have to go to the In New York, customers grabbed handfuls of dresses, trenchcoats, blouses and gym today.” jackets. By 10:15 a.m., the racks were stripped. Sales associates tried to replenish It didn’t take Chicago customers long to raid Cavalli’s assortment. Within fi ve min- displays but were accosted by shoppers grabbing the merchandise. A store security utes of the Michigan Avenue store’s opening, shoppers had emptied a rack of silk guard said associates were being escorted from the stock room to the sales fl oor by se- animal-print halter dresses and stripped clothing off the mannequins. curity personnel, who also guarded the mannequins to prevent shoppers from ripping Angelina Kovalenko brought an entourage. Her boyfriend, Scott Rogers, stood off their clothes. At one point, store employees resorted to dropping clothing from the away from the fray, his arms overfl owing with merchandise, with her friend Kerri mezzanine into the scrum of shoppers. Hartmann, who fl ew in from St. Louis. A gold lamé gown for $349 was the most expensive item in the line. Stockings were “I’ve been looking forward to this for a couple months,” said Kovalenko, who $12.49 and came in a variety of animal prints. A silk chiffon zebra-print halter dress, arrived at 8:30 a.m. to fi nd some 40 people already in line. With $2,500 to spend, $99.90, was one of several dress styles. Kovalenko bought more than 40 items, including multiple dresses, tunics, long sweat- Jewelry featured snake motifs, and a snake was embroidered in gold thread on the ers, a corset top and a trench. “I was hoping there would be more pieces,” she said. “I back pocket of jeans selling for $69. The collection includes intimate apparel, shoes, was looking for the riding pants from his show.” boots, knits, belts and tuxedo suits with cream jackets with black lapels. By the af- Lynne Bredfeldt had to deal with some aggressive shoppers physically forcing WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007 13 WWD.COM

Checking out the Launches Collection merch in Milan. their way through the racks. “A woman was pushing me saying ‘That’s mine!’” she “In the beginning, I wasn’t sure about said. “People were grabbing all the sizes, taking three or four pieces at a time.” the quality but now that I have them in my Bredfeldt used her own strategy and camped out near the dressing room in search hands the silk dresses are amazing,” said of discarded merchandise. It worked. She left with two sought-after pieces, an ani- Vanessa Casali, who was laden with animal- mal-print trench and a sheer animal-print tunic. print items. H&M tried to ease the discomfort of those waiting outside in the cold. At the Fifth “Where else can you fi nd a fur jacket like Avenue and 51st Street fl agship in Manhattan, the fi rst 150 people on line received gift this one?” asked Rosi Novara, a lawyer. bags with limited edition Cavalli T-shirts, autographed images from the ad campaign Alfi o Camuglio, an H&M visual merchan- and gifts cards from $10 to $300. In Milan, crowds were offered trays of hot croissants, diser, said the fake fur jackets, silk leopard orange juice and water, and those outside the H&M Oxford Circus fl agship in London dresses and trenches sold fast. found croissants and orange juice packaged inside Cavalli goodie bags. “I am a huge fan of Mr. Cavalli,” said By late afternoon, a big red sign outside the Oxford Circus H&M unit stated the Michela Argelati, holding pretty much collection was “Sold Out,” which was not surprising, considering crowds were four every piece of the collection. “Today is a deep and the line wound its way around the block. When the doors opened at 9 a.m., fairy-tale moment and I am the princess a DJ blasted tracks while customers ran in every direction. “It’s like descending with a new wardrobe to purchase.” into a leopard-print ant farm,” quipped one consumer as she made her way down Patrizia Ferro, a student, said she studied the escalator to the basement, where shoppers were snapping up Cavalli’s signature the H&M designer collaborations in college animal prints. and was curious to see one. “Now that I am The entire shop fl oor was transformed into an impromptu changing room for men here, I can’t resist shopping,” she added. and women trying on tailored suits, evening gowns and shoes. Other customers came A crowd of about 50 formed outside prepared for bulk spending, bringing suitcases and plastic hampers. H&M’s fl agship at Fifth Avenue and 51st Street in Manhattan.

A Milan shopper laden with animal prints. The dressing room at the Sunset Plaza store in L.A.

Among the top sellers in London were leopard-print kaf- of Berlin’s biggest H&M store in the new shopping center on tans, heavily-sequined minidresses, leather jackets, accesso- Alexanderplatz. Once the doors opened, chaos ensued as custom- ries and long gowns. Racks of some items — including the print ers moved quickly from rack to rack, frantic to claim their sizes and kaftans — were cleared within seconds. Ten minutes after the head to the fi tting rooms. In the fi rst half hour H&M employees opening, the basement of the Oxford Street store was clear, save rushed to restock and lines formed for the fi tting rooms and at the for a few pieces. cash registers. Though the prices were more expensive than tra- Some London units, including Knightsbridge, began waiting ditional H&M prices, customers showed no hesitation when it lists for customers seeking specifi c items. The frenzy was attrib- came time to pay. Leaving the store 10 minutes after it opened, uted to the limited quantities. Staff members said stores received a customer weighed down with three bags said she was pleased

NATO SARDELLA NATO 100 percent of their stock allocation in deliveries the night before, with the prices, “For Cavalli, they were totally OK!” with no replenishments to follow, in contrast with previous Stella Cavalli, however, wasn’t interested in introducing his McCartney and Viktor & Rolf collaborations, where top-up deliveries own lower-priced line. “My fashion is made in Florence,” were made throughout the day. he explained. “H&M did a very good job. For sure [the “The company bought less product because we wanted the line to be clothes] don’t have my details. Absolutely not. I leave to them that much more exclusive, so these are all truly limited Roberto Cavalli [H&M] to do what they do best.” items,” said an H&M spokesperson at the Knightsbridge store. — With contributions from Samantha Conti, London; Chiara Hughes, In Milan, the reception was equally enthusiastic. Milan; Rachel Brown, Los Angeles and Sarah Rienhoff, Berlin

Jay-Z, Bill Clinton, Arnold Schwarzenegger.” The brand tapped Sykes and Cristina Cuomo, the two talked shop. When Burch all three to collaborate on watches, with proceeds going to explained that she was inspired by vintage photographs of her their respective charities. Some of the proceeds parents, Stewart got particularly excited, teasing, “The Sixties Fashion Scoops from the watch sale will go to O’Neal’s charity, and Seventies are, like, my time! Is that history to you?” SHAQ ON TIME: What do Bill Clinton and Shaquille the Real Model Foundation. “There is always Burch’s mother Reva, the namesake for her popular shoe style, O’Neal have in common? Time. The 7 foot, 1 inch the matter of fi nding the right people. It’s was seated in the front, with Burch’s three sons and two of her Shaq is the latest celebrity to team up with Audermars people with character,” François-Henry three stepdaughters in tow. Piguet to launch the Royal Oak Offshore Shaquille Bennahmias, chief executive offi cer of Fashion lovers with DVRs should note Tommy Hilfi ger will appear O’Neal Chronograph at a fete Thursday night at the Setai Audemars Piguet North America said. on the show Nov. 20, and Isaac Mizrahi is slated for Dec. 18. in Miami. The Miami Heat center, who bought his “Shaq is one of the top guys in father a Piguet watch at the party, received his the world.” And tallest. ALL ABOUT THE WREATH: Bergdorf Goodman gets into the fi rst one Thursday, customized with the 3 Christmas spirit next week with a couple of new twists on and the 2 set with rubies in homage to MORNING, TORY: Martha holiday exclusives. The store has compiled a collection of his team number. The strap also had to Stewart’s love affair with fashion 26 wreaths created by established interior designers that be custom-made for the “Big Daddy’s” is far from unrequited. After Jamee Gregory and Muffi e Potter Aston will help auction off wrist. “The watch is fabulous, it’s all, the former model’s glamour at a private cocktail party at the store Tuesday to benefi t the daring. [Anyone from] Bow Wow to Bill shots grace the halls of her talk Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center. Also, tree ornaments Gates [can wear it],” O’Neal said. The show set, and Tom Ford, Michael Kors with art created by children being treated at the hospital and 48-millimeter watches come in stainless and Valentino have dropped by for on-air the center’s fi rst cookbook, “Park Avenue Potluck,” will be steel or white gold with diamonds. There cooking and crafts. Tory Burch was the guest sold to benefi t the hospital. are 960 steel watches that will sell for of honor on Thursday’s episode, in which “When I toured the hospital, I saw the children working $27,000 retail and 96 white gold ones that Stewart kicked off the segment by stretching on art projects and fi gured it would be fun for them to design will sell for $75,000. “I did my due diligence her leg across the counter to show off her own an ornament with us,” said Nicholas Manville, Bergdorf’s of research and we share the same qualities and black Reva ballerina skimmers by Burch. After divisional vice president of decorative home. Designers doing traditions,” said O’Neal, a watch afi cionado. “A The Royal Oak Offshore a short video with testimonials from Neiman wreaths include Kelly Wearstler, Joel Allen, Samuel Botero, lot of big-name people have worn this watch: Shaquille O’Neal Chronograph.Marcus’ Ken Downing, Glenda Bailey, Plum Mario Buatta, Nina Campbell and Peter Marino, to name a few. MILAN PHOTOS BY KHEPRI STUDIOS; BERLIN BY MATTI HILLIG; PARIS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; NEW YORK BY KYLE ERICKSEN; LOS ANGELES BY DO ANGELES BY ERICKSEN; LOS KYLE BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; NEW YORK BY HILLIG; PARIS MATTI KHEPRI STUDIOS; BERLIN BY MILAN PHOTOS BY 14 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007 WWD.COM

Schimmel: Jason was not Jewish, but he was trying so hard it had a Borscht Belt quality to it. He had this humorous schtick, which wasn’t very funny and we would kind of cringe.

Zwirner: There were two strategies that Jason employed again and again: to engage you or to piss you Art Happening off. Playful was a strategy, because when you laugh about a work of art you are also engaged. If you are upset about a work of art, it will also linger with you and you will try to grapple with it. So there was a lot of politically incorrect stuff in his work, not to mention FOR SIX MONTHS PRIOR TO HIS DEATH OF HEART FAILURE at the title. You are going to say, “What is this artist doing?” JasonJason Rhoades’Rhoades’ “Black“Black Pussy.”Pussy.” age 41 in August 2006, Los Angeles-based artist Jason Rhoades held 10 salon-style happenings at his Beverly Boulevard studio. Korek: Sometimes there were moments when people didn’t know Called (absurdly) “Black Pussy Soiree Cabaret Macramé,” they what to do. And so whether it was clapping at the right time, became sought-after social events as well as an integral part of his or doing macramé or helping to keep things going the way they 3,000-square-foot art installation. Art collectors like Rosette wanted them to be, I would help. I knew what was going to Delug and Norman Stone and bold-faced names like Ashley happen next, so I helped get things started. Olsen and Alex Kerry blew through his studio, leaving their recorded voices behind as part of the massive sculpture. Israel: Jason was running around the studio, saying, “Come on, They also suggested euphemisms for female genitalia to add yell out the words. If you are too shy, whisper it into my ear and to the master list Rhoades was compiling — many of their I will scream it for you.” terms were later made into neon signs and added to the work. The piece, which also comprises hundreds of dream catchers, Cliff Einstein, collector and MOCA board member: I may have broken hookah pipes, Chinese scholar stones, Venetian glass vegetables, the world’s record. I loved “corner pocket,” and “cul de sac.” cloth rugs and a wall-sized “macramé” of vintage T-shirts, opens to the public for the fi rst time on Tuesday at the David Zwirner gallery Israel: A singer, Anita Sherman, was at every soiree, and she would in New York. A book from Steidl is due out later in the year. sing back the words that everyone would yell out. Rick, the studio Here, attendees and friends of Rhoades’ recall the larger- manager, would check the words on the archive on the computer. than-life artist and his work: So that’s how we collected new words. And after that we would have dinner, and after dinner, there were other activities. Alex Israel, collaborator: I met with Jason in the summer of 2005 to talk about this project he wanted to do in Los Angeles. Korek: There was “Spukaki” — candle making. They had made He wasn’t quite sure at this point what the project was going a scent of the Black Pussy. And everybody got to make a candle to be, but he’d just rented a studio on Beverly Boulevard in these ceramic donkeys. and wanted to do something involving the community in Los Angeles. We began organizing a series of events to bring people Diva Dompe, lead singer of the band Blackblack: He had this to the studio to experience it in a very special way. So I became a corroborator and co-host for attachment — it’s pretty much like a fake penis with the candle wax shooting out of it. what came to be known as “Black Pussy Soiree Cabaret Macramé.” Einstein: I was a lead player with that wonderful instrument and fi lled up lots of those little donkeys. Paul Schimmel, Museum of Contemporary Art chief curator: I fi rst heard about it from Jason. He That was not necessarily the photo I wanted on the annual report of MOCA, but I loved being there. had in his own mind positioned this project as his homecoming to Los Angeles — his self- proclaimed, self-supported homecoming. Zwirner: The one I went to, there were these amazing girls, the Chapin sisters, singing “Toxic” by Britney Spears. It was beautiful — it was a cappella. They also sang at Jason’s funeral, which David Zwirner, gallerist: It was kind of amazing because it was layering a sculptural process and a was very moving. There was also Jelvis, a Jewish Elvis, which was kind of weird and bad and sort of entertainment and performance process. The people who went to these things really thought hilarious. And then there was a house band and a friend of Courtney Love’s came, this woman of it as a party. But he thought of it as making a piece of work, because the people who came to the who was completely drunk and really weird, but she gave it this touch of Hollywood. openings had to participate. They had to work on this macramé, they had to give a pussy word, they would be taped and photographed and that again would become part of the work. So it was sort of a Israel: We ended up getting crashers. And then we felt like we were really successful. Once that studio practice, but it was at the same time something totally different. I thought it was pretty radical. actor, Harry Dean Stanton, came and we both looked at each other and were like, “Who invited him?” One of the Olsen twins came — Ashley. That kind of stuff started happening toward the end. Israel: We made lists of people we wanted to come. We wanted to create a real mix of guests who wouldn’t normally come together in this context. If they RSVP’d, we would send a map to the Secret Zwirner: Jason was interested in ephemeral things. As a sculptor, he was interested in materials that Studio. And the guests would have to arrive at 7:50 p.m. and they were asked to wear bright white. are not traditionally in sculpture. So he did work with smoke, light, sound. And the idea of charisma is completely ephemeral. So he wanted to bring all these people in there with “charisma” and now all Gary Garrels, chief curator of the Hammer Museum: Everybody met in the front room and had drinks that charisma has been caught in the dream catchers. The work has that layer — but you can’t see it. and you went in. And it was just like someone had opened Ali Baba’s cave. You just went into this totally magical, visually voluptuous environment. It was a total surprise, behind a magical Israel: Jason saw the soirees as a social project and he wanted to have it translated through closed door. the book as well. When we were making the catalogue, we looked at other social publications — we liked the size of Brooke de Ocampo’s “Bright Young Things.” We ended up emulating the Bettina Korek, planted “guest”: Jason and Alex had this speech that they did and they would dimensions of that book. It was no accident, that was really purposeful. tell the story of Jason collecting pussy words and about [his earlier works] “My Madinah” and “Meccatuna” and that this was the third in a trilogy of works. Einstein: He was proud of himself. At the soirees, Jason was at the top of his form. As tragic as his young death was, I don’t think he felt he had failed to grow. He had achieved everything he had set Garrels: It was so carefully choreographed and planned.…Jason was the raconteur and Alex was his out for himself, probably much more. There’s no question how tragic this was and a lot of it, we do foil. They were a little bit like a funny vaudeville routine. Jason was the comandante. He was the to ourselves. But these soirees were the complete expression of what Jason wanted to do and be. emcee, he was the Barnum, the W.C. Fields. He was the animator. — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz

also helped young people fi nd the music so sure I’d be a good employee.” (“Really?” way, save for “NBC Nightly News” anchor that inspired his magazine. “Who was just Pearlstine interjected sarcastically.) “I’m Brian Williams, who has served on the panel telling me that Rolling Stone led to them happy to work for someone smarter than for several years, and “The View” co-host MEMO PAD reconnecting with their kid?” Wenner me…” Wenner began, then stopped. “Now Whoopi Goldberg. Both backed Mother Earth said, looking out at the audience. Portfolio I’m going to get myself into trouble.” and the word “green,” respectively. The NORM GRILLS JANN: Forty years as a magazine publisher David Carey tentatively raised There were less careful moments. short list from My Space co-founder Chris editor and publisher seemed to have hardly a hand. “Maybe I’m deluding myself,” Speaking about the pool of young talent: he DeWolfe, former Virginia senator George taken their toll on Jann Wenner’s energy Wenner concluded, “but the richness of the didn’t see an “Internet brain drain” because Allen and activist Ayaan Hirsi Ali included — or his bite — at least judging from a fi eld is as great as it’s ever been.” young people apparently face the choice Gore, Gen. David Petraeus, Rupert Murdoch lunch interview Thursday with Carlyle Group In justifying what Pearlstine called the between working for either “Salon or Slate, or and French president Nicolas Sarkozy. One senior adviser Norm Pearlstine organized by “pessimistic tone” of Rolling Stone lately for a magazine with a major and meaningful concept that may still have a shot at this ASME. Pearlstine, in explaining why he on topics like President Bush and global audience.” (Incidentally, Slate editor Jacob year’s honors is the subprime mortgage was skipping Wenner’s biographical details, warming, Wenner said, “The only person Weisberg is an ASME board member.) When crisis, which Stengel believed could be wryly recalled sitting through years of ASME I know who is optimistic is Bill Gates.…If asked what magazines he read: “Since Norm personifi ed in some way. “Maybe you fi nd lunches “watching Time Inc. not get awards” you have $50 billion, of course you’re left Time Inc., none of those,” and said that someone who bought a house outside of as Wenner made trips to the podium. He optimistic.” “At what market cap do you though the newsweeklies are sent to him, Detroit who defaulted on their mortgage. You then said Wenner had been “pretty cavalier” become optimistic?” Pearlstine wondered. they don’t do it for him. “I wish them the could say that it’s like the butterfl y wing that about the Internet, asking, “Are you going “Not at my market cap!” said Wenner. best,” he said. “I know they’re trying harder.” caused a hurricane later.” Time’s Person to continue to ignore it?” Wenner denied the He pointed out he would “absolutely He did praise Vanity Fair and The New Yorker. (hopefully) of the Year will be unveiled the characterization, saying he preferred to wait entertain buying more magazines if they Earlier he had told WWD that he wants week of Dec. 21. — Stephanie D. Smith for widespread high-speed access and let were the right kind of scale, and if we could to frame a letter David Remnick wrote him bigger companies fi gure out how to develop leverage it with our advertising,” though he praising material he found in Rolling Stone’s SHE’S STILL THERE: Annie Leibovitz was spotted on the Web. After all, he said, “Time Inc. said his launch days were likely past. newly released digital archive. — Irin Carmon Thursday morning in the lobby of The New lost billions on it.” (Pearlstine was editor in ASME president and Glamour editor York Times Building, still at work for Forest chief of Time Inc. during the problematic in chief Cindi Leive had introduced PICK ANY ONE: No matter whether it’s Al City Ratner Companies — co-owner of the Time Warner-AOL merger.) Pearlstine by saying he could “buy all of Gore, Mahmoud Ahmadinejad or J.K. Rowling, new building — to capture the building Wenner did say Rolling Stone was our magazines before we even get back Time’s Person of the Year 2007 will likely process. However, it’s anyone’s guess as looking at implementing social networking from lunch.” When Pearlstine said he only be a face, instead of a theme like last year’s to where the majority of the photos, which to facilitate music fans seeing live music. wished they were for sale, Leive replied, honoree “You,” aka user-generated content. represent over two year’s work, will end up. (A spokesman for the company later told “Good to know that matters.” Later, “I’d like to pick one person. We’ve done a A spokeswoman for the newspaper said the WWD that Men’s Journal’s site will also be Pearlstine asked Wenner whether he would lot of themes over the last few years and it images won’t be used in an ad campaign, growing, probably by next fall.) sell the company before, say, a Democratic would be nice to get back to that original while a spokeswoman for Forest City said What about the risk of becoming “my president raises the capital gains tax. “My concept,” said Time managing editor Richard it is unknown how they will be used. The father’s magazine,” as Pearlstine described motivation has never been the money,” said Stengel at the magazine’s annual Person pricy photos, which range from construction the threat of the digital age? Wenner Wenner, adding his “is one of the greatest of the Year debate luncheon on Thursday. workers to Times executives, currently appear pointed out the digital music revolution had jobs anyone could ever have. And I’m not Most attendees at the event felt the same only on the building’s Web site. — Amy Wicks PHOTO BY DOUGLAS M. PARKER STUDIO; COURTESY ESTATE OF JASON RHOADES; ESTATE STUDIO; COURTESY DOUGLAS M. PARKER PHOTO BY NEW YORK ZWIRNER, AND ZURICH; DAVID LONDON & WIRTH, GALERIE HAUSER WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2007 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Must have expe- 1) International Sales Manager - based in New York, for Eurpoean Markets • rience & relationships with major buyers. 2) Accounts Receivable/Accounts Payable Manager PHOENIX, AZ Please Fax resume to: (213) 620-9369 or 3) Sales Administrative Assistant MARKET TRAINING COORDINATOR E-mail to: [email protected] Looking To Sublease Space • On Broadway or 7th Ave 35th - HOUSTON, TX 40th; Garment Center. Need Three years minimum fragrance experience a must. Please e-mail resume and cover •SOUTHWEST REGIONAL EDUCATION MANAGER approximately 2,000’ with show- letter in MS Word format to [email protected], attention Elena, or fax to LOS ANGELES, CA rooms and offices. Please call 212-228-1938. Please include salary requirements. •ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE 516-297-7998 or fax 212-730-8452 CHICAGO, IL FORAVI Designer $60-80K Current exp in infant, QUALIFICATIONS: Hi-traffic Soho Sportswear Store seeks DESIGNER toddler, pre-teen denim girlswear. 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