Sashiko Square by Rebecca Kemp Brent - Designer

“Sulky 12 wt. Cotton Thread is perfect for machine-stitched bobbinwork Sashiko because it is bold enough to make the pattern stand out against the dark background fabrics; and I also love the color choices. Other Sulky 12 wt. Solid Colors and even Blendables can be used for unique variations on the traditional white-on- navy-stitches.” --- Rebecca

Materials: • One 18” square each of: solid color cotton broadcloth, a coordinating cotton print and a fl annel • One 12” square each of Sulky® Totally Stable™ and Soft ’n Sheer™ Stabilizers • 3” of 5/8” wide fusible web tape • Regular Sewing Foot • 14/90 Topstitch Needle • All purpose thread to match solid color fabric • Sulky 12 wt. Cotton Thread in white or a light neutral color, or Blendables #4001 Parchment Visit Rebecca at: • Red and Blue Sharpie®, Ultra-Fine, Permanent-Ink Markers www.rkbrent.com • The Sashiko Pattern is on the CD in the back of this book • General Sewing Supplies

18 Sashiko Square Set up the Sewing Machine: Construct a Grid:

• Thread the bobbin with Sulky 12 wt. 1. Draw an 11” square at the center of the Solid Color Cotton Thread in a neutral non-fusible surface of the 12” square of color, or Blendables #4001 Parchment. Sulky Totally Stable Stabilizer and mark • Thread the top with sewing thread to the centers of each side. match the solid color fabric. 2. Draw a grid of horizontal and vertical • Set the straight stitch length to 3.0 mm, lines 1” apart within the square. Following or 8 stitches per inch. the pattern shown below left, use the two • Sew a test line on scrap fabric; raise or colors of permanent-ink markers to draw lower the top tension until the bobbin the Sashiko pattern on the grid. thread rides on the fabric surface, with loops of the needle thread visible around TIP: Tape the stabilizer to a gridded cutting mat the bobbin thread to defi ne the stitches. and use the mat’s gridlines as a guide for drawing the Sashiko pattern.

3. To fi nd the horizontal and vertical center lines of the fabrics, fold them in half, then fi nger press them; mark with pins or 1/8” clips at each edge, then unfold them.

4. Iron the Totally Stable onto the fl annel, matching the centerlines.

5. Stack: solid fabric (face down); then fl annel and stabilizer, matching A traceable version of this pattern can the centers. Pin the layers together. Stitch around also be found on the the 11” square (the perimeter of the pattern). CD in the back of the book, under Sashiko Patterns. TIP: This line of stitches won’t show in the fi nished project, so you can use it to refi ne stitch length and tension settings.

Sashiko Square 19 6. If your machine has an automatic thread cutter, turn it off. Leave the tails of thread at each end of a line of stitches.

7. With the drawn pattern facing up, stitch the Sashiko pattern. Stitch the red lines fi rst, then stitch the blue lines. Sew from one edge of the pattern to the other, pivoting at the corners with the needle down in the fabric. Stabilizer TIP: There should be eight stitches in each 1” segment of a line. Take a small compensating stitch, if necessary, to land the needle 8. When all of the stitching is complete, exactly on the pivot point. pull the thread tails through to the stabilizer side of the work; knot them.

9. Carefully tear away the stabilizer. Pinch the thread knots to keep them secure as you remove the stabilizer.

10. Draw a 15-1/2” circle on pattern paper or newsprint paper (use Sulky Soft- ’n Sheer to make a more permanent pattern), and cut it out. The edge of the pattern is the seam line for the following step.

11. Thread the top and bobbin with sewing thread. Lay the 18” square of printed fabric on the Sashiko square, with right sides together.

12. Center the circle pattern on the fl annel side of the Sashiko square so the circle edge meets the corners of the square. Open the pattern and pin. Stitch the circle perimeter along the edge of the paper pattern. Remove the paper pattern and trim the seam allowances on all layers to a scant 1/4”.

20 Sashiko Square TIP: If the allowances are trimmed to a scant 1/4” (more than 1/8” but less than 1/4”), it isn’t necessary to clip or grade the curved seam. If you prefer to clip the seam allowance, use pinking shears to trim and notch the seam allowance in one step.

13. Carefully slit only the solid fabric and fl annel between the stitched square and the circle seam. Make the slit about 3” long.

14. Turn the mat, right side out, through the slit; press. Tuck the fusible web tape into the slit; arrange the cut edges to close the slit; and press to fuse.

15. With the Sashiko side on top, fold the circle edges over the Sashiko, along the stitched outline of the square. Use an appliqué stitch, blind hem stitch, or zig-zag to attach and quilt the curved edges of the circle to the Sashiko mat.

TIP: The curved-edge stitches are shown in white for clarity; use a regular sewing thread that blends into the fabrics so your stitches are invisible.

Sashiko Square 21