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Home , Backstitch, Blackwork, Broderie anglaise, Buttonhole stitch, Cutwork, Darning

Listing of stitches Listing of stitches This listing groups all the stitches together in their Pekinese Canvas work Leviathan Encroaching Gobelin Hungarian category, but as there are many that overlap, it also Alternative name: Chinese Alternative names: double cross, Alternative names: interlocking Algerian filling Smyrna cross, railway Gobelin conveniently lists the styles within which each is Double running often used. The photographs are a great quick reference Alternative name: Holbein Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work – so you are instantly able to recognise stitches in a piece Canvas work Jacquard of work, or compare your own to make sure Also used in: Freestyle Mountmellick you are on the right track. Crewel work Wide Gobelin Coral Alternative name: German knot, Cashmere Also used in: Blackwork Freestyle Holbein beaded stitch, snail trail Stumpwork Long and short Mountmellick Double leviathan Upright Gobelin Half hitch Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Alternative names: kelim, tapestry Stumpwork Also used in: Freestyle Linked Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Crewel work Also used in: Freestyle Stem Drawn Alternative name: crewel stitch Mountmellick Velvet Gobelin filling Ghiordes knot Needleweaving Alternative names: rug, tassel, Alternative name: turkey stitch Chain raised, Astrakhan, plush, Berlin plush, Rya Also used in: Pulled work Lozenge satin Freestyle Crewel work Also used in: Freestyle Milanese Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Freestyle Canvas work Crewel work Stumpwork Canvas work Also used in: Freestyle Picot Needlewoven bars Stumpwork Stumpwork Plaited Gobelin Drawn thread Broderie anglaise Mountmellick Ray Milanese straight Hedebo Alternative name: fan Also used in: Drawn thread Indian chain Also used in: Hardanger Hardanger Mountmellick Alternative name: broad chain Hedebo Leviathan variation Rice Cutwork Raised stem band Whipping Alternative name: double straight Alternative names: William & Mary cross stitch Moorish Raised chain band Also used in: Blackwork Also used in: Pulled work Also used in: Freestyle Freestyle Crewel work Crewel work Mountmellick Also used in: Freestyle Stumpwork Balloon satin Gobelin Crewel work Insertion stitch Also used in: Freestyle Cutwork Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Stab Mountmellick Mosaic (canvas) Canvas work Threading Byzantine Trailing

Also used in: Pulled work Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Cutwork Mountmellick

138 139 LISTING OF STITCHES Listing of stitches

Reversed mosaic Oblong cross stitch with Square herringbone Captive rice Greek cross Crossed Gobelin Upright cross Broad cross Alternative name: Multiplait Alternative name: straight cross stitch, St George’s cross

Also used in: Pulled work Also used in: Pulled work Triple rice Also used in: Freestyle Brick Knotted Also used in: Pulled work Crewel work Star Alternative names: Persian cross, Slanted and tied Gobelin Freestyle Pangolin Crewel work Broad diagonal cross Spanish Alternative name: plait Woven cross Alternative name: cross plaited Also used in: Freestyle Upright rice Sloping and reversed satin Pulled work

Fancy bricking Fern Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Pulled Rhodes Crewel work Freestyle Square satin Chained cross Crewel work Alternative name: flat square Crossed cornered cushion Ridge stitch Florentine Plaited Also used in: Blackwork Alternative names: , Alternative name: herringbone Also used in: Freestyle Freestyle flame, Irish Mountmellick Also used in: Freestyle Stumpwork Crewel work Fishbone Half Rhodes Double Diagonal cross Alternative name: alternating Also used in: Freestyle cross stitch Crewel work Rococo Alternative name: queen Herringbone Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Also used in: Freestyle Mountmellick Tent Crewel work Also used in: Freestyle Alternative names: , Diagonal fishbone Continental, Petit point Double twill Octagonal Rhodes Cushion Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Dutch Stumpwork Alternative name: Dutch cross Insertion stitch Drawn Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Freestyle Oblong cross Thread Also used in: Pulled work Long Alternative names: long cross stitch, Broderie Plaited Rhodes Horizontal fishbone economic long cross, czar stitch Anglaise Plaited Algerian Criss-cross Mountmellick Double Dutch Diamond straight Alternative name: Double Dutch Also used in: Freestyle cross

Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Crewel work

140 141 listing of stitches Listing of stitches

Encroaching Double and plaited cross Cross stitch plus two Chessboard filling Twisted lattice Shadow trellis Wave filling Alternative name: half-drop Crewel work

Square trellises

Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Crewel work Also used in: Freestyle Half cross Crewel work Also used in: Freestyle Parisian filling Encroaching tied Mountmellick Alternative name: holy point Reversed cross Battlement

Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work

Double cross Also used in: Stumpwork Also used in: Pulled work Eyelet Hedebo Mountmellick Alternative names: Algerian eye, Also used in: Freestyle Double Parisian Also used in: Freestyle Freestyle Crewel work star stitch, star eyelet stitch Mountmellick threads Ceylon Overlapping buttonhole Underlined cross Diagonal trellis on laid Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Pulled work Crewel work Hardanger Also used in: Broderie anglaise Italian cross Rep Mountmellick Hedebo Alternative names: two-sided Italian Alternative name: Aubusson Also used in: Freestyle Double trellis Cutwork cross stitch, arrowhead cross Crewel work Also used in: Freestyle Canvas work Freestyle stitch, Italian stitch Stumpwork Mountmellick Leaf Hedebo Cashmere straight Block filling Back-to-back buttonhole Burden Alternative name: back to back blanket Also used in: Freestyle Reversed tent Also used in: Pulled work Crewel work Also used in: Freestyle Long-armed cross Diagonal trellis Also used in: Canvas work Cushion reversed Alternative names: long-legged Crewel work Mountmellick cross stitch, Slav stitch, Portuguese Diamond filling stitch, twist stitch Also used in: Freestyle Montenegrin Stumpwork Mountemellick Alternative names: Montenegrin Knotted Insertion stitch cross, two-sided Montenegrin cross Alternative name: Persian Cross, Cloud filling Canvas Pangolin Freestyle Also used in: Pulled work Also used in: Mountmellick Interlocking buttonhole Diagonal Also used in: Freestyle Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Weaving Japanese

Norwich Oriental Also used in: Freestyle Alternative name: waffle

Canvas work Also used in: Pulled work

142 143 listing of stitches Listing of stitches

Triple buttonhole Chessboard filling variations Wheatsheaf Backstitch Outline Wheatsheaf Up and down buttonhole Heavy chain Alternative name: sheaf Alternative name: Kensington

Also used in: Pulled work Also used in: Crewel work Also used in: Blackwork Stumpwork Blackwork Crewel work Drawn thread Split Mountmellick Also used in: Pulled work Stumpwork Broderie anglaise Braid Also used in: Freestyle Freestyle Also used in: Freestyle Broderie anglaise Crewel work Open chain Insertion stitch Canvas Crewel work Mountmellick Canvas work Drawn thread Canvas work Hedebo Also used in: Crewel work Mountmellick Cretan Insertion stitch Chevron Stumpwork Stumpwork Mountmellick Cutwork Also used in: Crewel work Canvas work Straight Also used in: Crewel work Up and down buttonhole Smocking Mountmellick Brussels net Mountmellick Stumpwork Mountmellick Twisted chain Couching Also used in: Closed buttonhole Crewel work Smocking Also used in: Blackwork Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Also used in: Crewel work Canvas work Drawn thread Mountmellick Also used in: Freestyle Mountmellick Also used in: Blackwork Also used in: Crewel work Stumpwork Stumpwork Crewel work Insertion stitch Mountmellick Stumpwork Smocking Also used in: Freestyle Zigzag chain Insertion stitch Darning Stumpwork Drawn thread Insertion stitch Mountmellick Mountmellick Mountmellick Buttonhole wheel Mountmellick Mountmellick Basket Single-sided feather Twisted buttonhole Also used in: Crewel work Freestyle— Also used in: Crewel work Mountmellick

Damask darning Also used in: Stumpwork Also used in: Crewel work Cretan Straight stitches Crewel Insertion stitch Mountmellick Hedebo Also used in: Crewel work Seeding Mountmellick Canvas work Also used in: Freestyle Alternative name: speckling, Chain feather Mountmellick Canvas work powdering Sawtooth buttonhole Also used in: Crewel work Chain Crown Block shading Also used in: Pulled work Dot Freestyle Broad chain Alternative names: Indian chain, Crewel work Also used in: Crewel work Also used in: Crewel work Hardanger Also used in: Crewel work Insertion stitch reversed chain Also used in: Blackwork Also used in: Crewel work Smocking Mountmellick Stumpwork Crewel work Canvas Drawn thread Also used in: Freestyle Mountmellick Broderie anglaise Mountmellick Stumpwork Mountmellick Ladder-decorative Canvas work Mountmellick Feather Bokhara couching Triple closed buttonhole Also used in: Blackwork Bricking Arrowhead Tufting Crewel work Mountmellick Also used in: Crewel work Cable chain Also used in: Crewel work Also used in: Crewel work Insertion stitch Stumpwork Drawn thread Also used in: Freestyle Mountmellick Mountmellick Split backstitch Also used in: Freestyle Crewel work Smocking Also used in: Crewel work Canvas work Mountmellick Mountmellick

144 145 listing of stitches Listing of stitches

Lazy daisy Running Sword Fishbone Double knot Portuguese stem Tête de boeuf Hardanger

Also used in: Blackwork Kloster block Freestyle Also used in: Crewel work Mountmellick Also used in: Crewel work Crewel work Herringbone Hardanger Hardanger Also used in: Crewel work Stumpwork Also used in: Crewel work Scroll Also used in: Crewel work Stumpwork Mountmellick Mountmellick Broderie anglaise Four-legged knot Mountmellick Wrapped bars Hedebo Vandyke Interlaced band Lock Cutwork Also used in: Crewel work Mountmellick Herringbone variations Mountmellick

Satin Sienese Also used in: Crewel work Also used in: Crewel work Also used in: Cutwork Drawn thread Also used in: Crewel work Also used in: Crewel work Woven band Mountmellick Canvas work Mountmellick Woven bars and Dove’s eye Also used in: Pulled work Mountmellick Buttonhole Crewel French knot Canvas Also used in: Crewel work Wheatear Leaf Hardanger Stumpwork Square boss Broderie anglaise Alternative name: raised knot Also used in: Stumpwork Also used in: Pulled work Hedebo Crewel work Cutwork Maltese cross Woven bars Also used in: Canvas work Mountmellick Also used in: Blackwork Stumpwork Hardanger Drawn thread Also used in: Crewel work Broiderie anglaise Drawn thread Stumpwork Mountmellick Mountmellick Thorn Crewel work work Insertion stitch Canvas work Drawn thread Mountmellick Cross Hardanger Also used in: Stumpwork Overcast Broderie anglaise Stumpwork Alternative name: wrapped bars Hedebo Mountmellick Backstitch chain Cutwork Also used in: Crewel work Mountmellick Also used in: Pulled work Pearl Portuguese border Stumpwork Blackwork Also used in: Crewel work Buttonhole knotted Mountmellick Crewel work Mountmellick Also used in: Crewel work Canvas Mountmellick Petal Mountmellick Zigzag Also used in: Crewel Also used in: Stumpwork Stumpwork Threaded detached chain Drawn thread Ermine Mountmellick Alternative name: lazy daisy Broderie anglaise Also used in: Crewel work Also used in: Crewel work Hedebo Stumpwork Also used in: Crewel work Pistil Insertion stitch Step (freestyle) Twisted picot Drawn thread Also used in: Crewel work Mountmellick Hedebo Mountmellick Also used in: Crewel work Mountmellick Bullion Stumpwork Sorbello Loop Also used in: Blackwork Interlaced herringbone Crewel work Mountmellick Also used in: Crewel work Also used in: Crewel work Stumpwork Also used in: Crewel work Stumpwork Mountmellick Mountmellick Also used in: Mountmellick Insertion stitch Cutwork Also used in: Crewel work

146 147 listing of stitches Listing of stitches

Dove’s eye filling stitch Square eyelet Diagonal in rows Wave Thicket Alternative name: stitch filling

Also used in: Canvas work Festoon Hardanger Pulled work Diamond eyelet Indian drawn ground Cushion Diagonal dove’s eye Reed

Off-centre eyelet Also used in: Pulled work Also used in: Smocking

Satin triangular variation Greek cross stitch variations Back-to-back blanket Spider’s web Alternative name: back to back Chessboard variations buttonhole Eyelet with single cross Diagonal satin blocks

Also used in: Stumpwork Drawn thread Star eyelet Cutwork Also used in: Crewel work Spaced star eyelet Diamond line Also used in: Freestyle Mountmellick Spokes Crewel work Canvas work Back-to-back blanket variations Mountmellick Pulled work

Step (pulled) Also used in: Canvas work Four-sided Hardanger

Also used in: Backstitch wave Cross stitch variations Drawn thread Also used in: Blackwork Mosaic (pulled) Hardanger Cable stitch Drawn thread Alternative name: Reversed diagonal faggotting Rings of backstitch Three-sided Crossed stitch window

Upright cross stitch Also used in: Canvas work Also used in: Pulled work Drawn thread Also used in: Blackwork Waffle (pulled) Also used in: Crewel work Diagonal in columns Backstitch picot with open-sided square edging Eyelet with double cross

148 149 Projects Stumpwork dragonfly ProjectNeedlewovenpicots 1 Stumpwork dragonfly Materials Wire detached petals, lily pads edged with needlelace and detached dragonfly wings. Background embroidery 7 With light brown, work 2 straight & threa ds stitches (bent) to one side of the Use a single strand unless stated yellow stitches (see diagram • Ivory coloured 25 x 25 cm 5 Place the centrally Size of finished design: otherwise. below left). for background fabric onto the background fabric and, 17 × 12 cm • 2 pieces of medium weight using machine thread, work running Stitches 1 Outline the lily buds in split 8 From the calico 25 x 25 cm, stitches to attach the tracing paper backstitch in yellow. used base of the 2 Couch the soft cotton in place and 20 x 30 cm Instructions to the fabric around the edges in a • , page 101 bulrushes take using mid petrol blue, taking care • 2 pieces organza 15 x 15 cm, similar way as before. • Closed buttonhole stitch, 1 Press the 25 × 25 cm 1 long straight not to pierce the padding thread. 1 in white metallic and page 101 background and backing fabric. 6 Mount the fabric in a hoop. stitch into the 1 in petrol blue • Couching, page 98 3 Work rows of stem stitch over 2 Zigzag the edges of each piece 7 With machine thread, work small leaf base using • Tracing paper • Feather stitch, page 104 the couched soft cotton, always of fabric to prevent fraying. stitches around the design, keeping mid beige, • Lily pads and flowers: stranded • Fly stitch, page 105 working in the same direction. as much detail as possible. shown in in mid yellowish-green, 3 Place the background fabric on • Long and short stitch, 4 Couch over the stem stitch diagram, right. pale yellowish-green, yellow top of the calico and stitch together 8 Score along the tacked lines with page 100 again firmly to form segments. • Reeds: stranded cottons in with small running stitches 6 mm a needle point and carefully tear the • , page 98 2 Pad the bud using closely Bank mid greyish-green from the edge using thread, paper away. • Split backstitch, page 49 spaced straight stitches across the • Bulrushes: stranded cottons in in the following order: left side, right 9 Remove the tacked lines as • Stem stitch, page 54 bud (see diagram above). mid fir-green, pale fir-green, very side, top, bottom. you work. • , page 98 pale silvery green, pale yellow, 4 Trace the skeleton outline light brown, mid beige, dark (see below) onto tracing paper. 3 Cut 6.5 x 2 cm lengths of brown brown chenille thread 5 Embroider the tail in backstitch chenille thread. • Bank: stranded cottons in mid and finish with a single fly (see beige, grass-green 4 Using a chenille or large-eyed diagram above). • Dragonfly: stranded cottons in needle, work 2 straight stitches side by side, going into the same hole mid petrol blue, mid petrol blue Detached elements chenille thread, petrol blue soft top and bottom to make the 3 Fill the bud with long and short cotton, 2 × size 11 beads bulrush. (Do not pull tight.) 1 Using grass-green, work 2 rows Cut the 30 x 30 cm stitches (see diagram above). • Two reels metallic machine 5 Fold the thread back on itself on of stem stitch around the curve, calico in half. , 1 in silver/ the backing fabric and secure in making shorter stitches where the Bulrushes curve is most severe. black and 1 in gold place. away the ends. Reeds • Fine uncovered wires (silver) 1 Outline the leaves in split 6 Using pale yellow, work 3 small 2 Using mid beige, make vertical 1 Draw the reed outlines onto one • Fine white-covered and backstitch using very pale silvery straight stitches into the top of the straight stitches for the river bank. of the pieces of calico and place in green-covered floral wires green as shown in diagram. For the bulrushes (see diagram below). a 10-cm hoop. • Paper-backed fusible webbing rest of the outline use pale fir-green. Dragonfly 15 x 15 cm • Tapestry needles sizes 24/ 2 Fill in with long and short stitches 1 Pad the abdomen with 2 strands and 26 in mid fir-green and very pale silvery of soft cotton thread going into the • Embroidery needles size 10 green as shown in diagram same hole top and bottom. • Chenille or large eyed needle Photocopy above right, following the stitch Oversew the ends to the backing • 10-cm and 15-cm hoops directions shown. fabric and trim. Photocopy at 125%

150 151 Projects Stumpwork dragonfly ProjectNeedlewovenpicots 1

Slide the wire tails through the eye around the wire to attach it to the To finish To finish 3 With petrol blue chenille thread 4 Work 2 straight stitches for the 7 With 1 strand work fly stitch for and pull to the back of the fabric. calico so that the buttonhole edge work 3 straight stitches to cover the head using petrol blue chenille the feelers (see diagram below). Cut out the lily pads and petals, 1 With sharp carefully lies on the outside of the lily pad. place where the wire enters the thread (see diagram left). 7 Bend the taking care not to catch the edges, cut out the wings close to the fabric. Do not pull tightly. wires back on 5 Using mid yellowish-green, fill and attach to the background in worked edge. 5 Using mid petrol blue, pick up themselves, the pad with satin stitch worked a similar way to the reeds. The 2 seed beads together and stitch 2 Attach the wings to the oversew the either side of the vein. small dots show the petal them down with 2 straight stitches background fabric in a similar way wires to the 6 Work a row of stem stitch positions and the large dots show across the top of the head for the to the reeds with both front wings backing and over the central vein and straight the pad positions (see diagram, eyes. Work a single stitch between going through a single hole and cut away the stitches for the side veins in pale page 150). the beads pointing towards the both back wings going through a excess wire yellowish-green. head to separate the beads. different single hole. (see diagram, right). 6 With 2 strands of machine sliver/ 7 With pale yellowish-green in a Dragonfly 2 Cut three 14 cm lengths of black thread work 3 stitches. tapestry needle, attach the thread 1 Iron fusible webbing onto one green-covered wire, bend into the Lily pads at the back of the pad and bring the piece of organza. Remove the leaf shapes and couch down using 1 Draw the needle through a buttonhole loop paper backing and iron the second mid greyish-green for the leaves, outlines of close to the start of the wire. Work piece of organza to the other side leaving the 2 tails loose. the lily pads 1 row of buttonhole stitch around of the fusible web. 3 Overcast the wire to the calico and lily petals the pad going into every other loop, using mid greyish-green. on the other except at the rounded ends where 4 Fill with long and short stitch piece of calico and place in a hoop. you should work into every loop. Do The diagram above right, is starting at the reed tip using mid not pull too tightly. 2 Cut four 6.5 cm lengths of to scale. greyish-green. 8 Work a second row into the uncovered wire and bend into the 2 Cut five 8 cm lengths of loops of the first row and secure the wing shapes, leaving 2 tails (see green-covered wire and bend into end of the thread into the back of above diagram, which is to scale). the lily pad shape. The lily pad has the lily pad. 3 Couch the wire to the organza only 1 tail. using mid petrol blue, then 3 Couch with pale yellowish- Flowers overcast. green thread. When halfway 1 Cut four 6.5 cm lengths of 4 Work the wing veins in feather around pass the wire tail through white-covered wire and stitch using gold machine thread to the back of the fabric and bend into shape. (see diagram below). finish couching, leaving the 2 Couch the wire tail free, see diagram below. 5 With small sharp scissors cut out down onto the outline the reeds close to the worked edge. 4 Using pale yellowish-green, work using yellow, leaving the tails 6 Attach the leaves to the fabric: a row of backstitch for the central unstitched. vein and close buttonhole stitch attach the leaves in the order 1, 3 Work close buttonhole stitch to then 2 then 3 (see picture P153) so attach the wire to the calico, with that they overlap a little. Using the the buttonhole edge on the outside large chenille needle, pierce the edge of the petal. fabric and slide the needle through 4 Fill with long and short stitches. so that half of the eye is showing.

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