Stitch Setting Chart

Home , Buttonhole stitch, Stitch (textile arts), Straight stitch, Walking foot, Zigzag stitch

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.

Utility stitches

Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement Stitching Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle

Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot 1 Basic stitching, sewing gathers 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes J Reverse No or pintucks, etc. (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Left 2 Straight Basic stitching and sewing 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes J Reinforcement Yes stitch gathers or pintucks (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)

3 Attaching zippers, basic 3.5 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes J/I stitching, sewing gathers or Reverse No (1/8) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Center pintucks, etc. 4 Attaching sleeves, sewing 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes Triple stretch stitch J inseams, sewing stretch fabrics Reinforcement No (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) and decorative stitching 5 Sewing stretch fabrics and 1.0 1.0–3.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes Stretch stitch J Reinforcement No decorative stitching (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)

6 0.0 0.0–7.0 20 5–30 Basting stitch J Temporarily securing No Reinforcement No (0) (0–1/4) (3/4) (3/16–1-3/16)

7 Overcasting and attaching 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 Yes J Reverse No appliqués (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) (J)

Zigzag Center stitch 8 Beginning sewing from the right 3.5 2.5–5.0 1.4 0.3–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement Yes needle position (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Right

9 Overcasting on medium weight 2-point 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes J or stretch fabrics, attaching Reinforcement Yes zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) elastic, darning, etc. 10 Overcasting on medium weight 3-point 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes J or stretch fabrics, attaching Reinforcement No zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) elastic, darning, etc.

11 Overcasting on thin or medium 3.5 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0 G No Reinforcement No weight fabrics (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

12 5.0 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 G Overcasting on thick fabrics No Reinforcement No (3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

13 Preventing fraying in thick fabrics 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 G No Reinforcement No and fabrics that fray easily (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Overcasting stitch 14 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes J Overcasting on stretch fabrics Reinforcement No (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J)

15 Overcasting on thick or stretch 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J)

16 Overcasting on stretch fabrics 4.0 0.0–7.0 4.0 1.0–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No and decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)

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Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement Stitching Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle

Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot

17 Blind hem stitching on medium 00 2.0 1.0–3.5 R 3← – →3 No Reinforcement No weight fabrics (0) (1/16) (1/16–1/8) Blind hem stitch 18 Blind hem stitching on stretch 00 2.0 1.0–3.5 R 3← – →3 No Reinforcement No fabrics (0) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)

19 3.5 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 Yes Appliqué stitch J Appliqué stitching Reinforcement No (1/8) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)

20 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0 Yes Shell tuck stitch J Shell tuck stitching Reinforcement No (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Piecing straight stitching (with a 21 seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 5.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0 J No Reinforcement No inch) from the right edge of the (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) Piecing straight presser foot) 3 stitch Piecing straight stitching (with a 22 seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 1.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0 J No Reinforcement Yes inch) from the left edge of the (1/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) presser foot) Straight stitch that 23 Straight stitch quilting that looks 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 looks hand-sewn J No Reinforcement No hand-sewn (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (for quilting)

24 Zigzag stitch Appliqué quilting, free-motion 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 J No Reinforcement Yes (for quilting) quilting, satin stitching (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16)

Appliqué stitch 25 1.5 0.5–3.5 1.8 1.0–4.0 J Attaching appliqués and binding No Reinforcement No (for quilting) (1/16) (1/32–1/8) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

Quilting stitch 26 Quilting background stitching 7.0 1.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 J No Reinforcement No (for stippling) (stippling) (1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

27 5.0 2.5–7.0 0.5 0.1–1.0 Yes Satin scallop stitch N Scallop stitching Reinforcement No (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) (J)

28 Patchwork stitching and 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Patchwork stitching, decorative 29 stitching and sewing overcasting 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes Joining stitch J Reinforcement No on both pieces of fabric, such as (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) with tricot

30 Patchwork stitching and 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

31 Smocking stitching and 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes Smocking stitch J Reinforcement No decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)

32 Fagoting and decorative 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) Fagoting stitch 33 Fagoting and decorative 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No stitching (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)

34 Elastic-attaching Attaching elastic to stretch 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No stitch fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

35 4.0 0.0–7.0 3.0 2.0–4.0 Ladder stitch J Decorative stitching No Reinforcement No (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)

36 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes Rick-rack stitch J Decorative stitching Reinforcement No (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)

Stitch Setting Chart 71 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement Stitching Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle

Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot 37 5.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes Decorative stitch J Decorative stitching Reinforcement No (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)

38 Decorative stitching and elastic- 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes Serpentine stitch N Reinforcement No attaching (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Lace sewing, decorative 39 3.5 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 N hemming, heirloom stitching, No Reinforcement No (1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) etc.

40 Decorative hemming, heirloom 6.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0 N No Reinforcement No stitching, etc. (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)

41 Decorative hemming on thin, 5.0 1.5–7.0 3.5 1.5–4.0 N medium weight and plain weave No Reinforcement No (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, 42 5.0 1.5–7.0 4.0 1.5–4.0 Yes N medium weight and plain weave Reinforcement No (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) 1/16–3/16) (J) fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

43 Decorative hemming on thin, 5.0 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes Hemstitching N medium weight and plain weave Reinforcement No (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. 44 Decorative hemming on thin, 5.0 1.5–7.0 2.0 1.5–4.0 Yes N medium weight and plain weave Reinforcement No (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J) fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming, ribbon 45 5.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0 Yes N threading, heirloom stitching, Reinforcement No (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) (J) etc.

46 Decorative stitching, smocking 6.0 1.5–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 N No Reinforcement No stitching, heirloom stitching, etc. (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

47 Decorative stitching, smocking 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 N No Reinforcement No stitching, heirloom stitching, etc. (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

48 Horizontal buttonholes on thin 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 Automatic A No No and medium weight fabrics (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

49 Horizontal buttonholes on areas 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 Automatic A No No that are subject to strain (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

50 Horizontal buttonholes on thick 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 Automatic A No No fabrics (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

51 Secured buttonholes for fabrics 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 Automatic Buttonhole stitch A No No that have backings (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

52 Buttonholes for stretch or knit 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.0 0.5–2.0 Automatic A No No fabrics (15/54) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16) reinforcement

53 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.5 1.0–3.0 Automatic A Buttonholes for stretch fabrics No No (15/54) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/16–1/8) reinforcement

54 5.0 0.0–6.0 2.0 0.2–4.0 Automatic A Bound buttonholes No No (3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) reinforcement

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Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement Stitching Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle

Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot 55 Keyhole buttonholes for thick or 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic A No No furry fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

56 Keyhole buttonholes for 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic Buttonhole stitch A No No medium weight and thick fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

57 Horizontal buttonholes for thick 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic A No No or furry fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

58 7.0 2.5–7.0 2.0 0.4–2.5 Automatic A Darning medium weight fabrics No No (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32) reinforcement Darning stitch 59 7.0 2.5–7.0 2.0 0.4–2.5 Automatic A Darning thick fabrics No No (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32) reinforcement

Reinforcing openings and areas 60 2.0 1.0–3.0 0.4 0.3–1.0 Automatic Bar tack stitch A where the seam easily comes No No 3 (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement loose

61 3.5 2.5–4.5 Automatic Button-sewing stitch M Button sewing ––No No (1/8) (3/32–3/16) reinforcement

7.0, 6.0, 7.0, 6.0, 62 Sewing eyelets, for example, on 7.0 5.0 (1/4, 7.0 5.0 (1/4, Automatic Eyelet stitch N No No belts (1/4) 15/64, (1/4) 15/64, reinforcement 3/16) 3/16) 63 Sewing straight stitches while 0.0 0.0–2.5 2.5 0.2–5.0 S No Reinforcement No cutting the fabric (0) (0–3/32) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)

64 Sewing zigzag stitches while 3.5 3.5–5.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 S No Reinforcement No cutting the fabric (1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (0–3/16)

65 Overcasting on thin and 3.5 3.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0 Side cutter S medium weight fabrics while No Reinforcement No (1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) cutting the fabric 66 Overcasting on thick fabrics 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 S No Reinforcement No while cutting the fabric (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

Overcasting on medium weight 67 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 S and thick fabrics while cutting No Reinforcement No (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) the fabric

68 Attaching appliqués to sleeves N – – – – No Reinforcement No (straight stitch sewn to the left) Horizontal straight stitch 69 Attaching appliqués to sleeves N – – – – No Reinforcement No (straight stitch sewn to the right)

70 Attaching appliqués to sleeves N – – – – No Reinforcement No (zigzag stitch sewn to the left) Horizontal zigzag stitch 71 Attaching appliqués to sleeves N – – – – No Reinforcement No (zigzag stitch sewn to the right)

Stitch Setting Chart 73 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Other stitches

Stitch Type Pattern Adjustable Pattern Size Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle Twin Length/width Stitching Density Stitching Adjustable Pattern Adjustable Left/Right Flipping Left/Right 1 2345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Large: No Decorative Large, Small: NNo No Yes stitches 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29* 30* Small Yes (*Not possible)

31**

1 2345678910

Satin Yes Yes Yes stitches N (*Not Large No (*Not (*Not 11 12 13 14 15 16 17* 18* possible) possible) possible)

1 23456*7*8*9*10*

Cross- Yes stitches NNoLargeNo(*Not Yes 11* 12* 13* 14* 15* possible)

Decorative 1 2345678910 Yes satin NNoLarge, Yes (length Yes stitches Small only) 1 2345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Combined utility N No Large No Yes Yes stitches 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39

** Pattern for making adjustment

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Stitch Type Pattern Adjustable Pattern Size Pattern Presser Foot Twin Needle Length/width Stitching Density Stitching Adjustable PatternAdjustable Left/Right Flipping 12345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 Character 3 stitches NNoLarge, No No Yes (Gothic font) 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Small

61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

91 92 93 94 95 96 97

12345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 Character stitches N No Large No No Yes (Script font) 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

91 92 93 94 95 96 97

Stitch Setting Chart 75 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Type Pattern Adjustable Pattern Size Pattern Presser Foot Twin Needle Length/width Stitching Density Stitching Adjustable PatternAdjustable Left/Right Flipping 12345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 Character stitches NNoLarge, No No Yes (Outline 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Small style) 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

91 92 93 94 95 96 97