FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY a Simple How to with Project Ideas

FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY A simple how to with project ideas

Soosie Jobson Other titles include:

HOW TO MAKE FELT MAKING PETTERNS FOR GARMENTS TORTURED TEXTILES CALCULATING SHRINKAGE RATES

This book is copyright. Apart from that permitted under the Copyright Act, no portion can be reproduced or copied in any form, or by any means, without prior written permission by the author.

The information, opinions, recommendations and ideas contained in this book are based on the experience of the author and research which is believed to be accurate, but not infallible. The advice in this book is given in good faith and follows acceptable professional standards.

All effort was made to render this book free from error and omission. However the author, publisher, editor, their employees or agents shall not accept responsibility for injury, loss or damage to any person or body or organisation acting or refraining from action as a result of the materials in this book, whether or not such injury, loss or damage is in any way due to any negligent act or omission, breach of duty, or default on the part of the author, publisher, editor or their employees or agents.

FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY

1st Edition 2007 © Jobson, Soosie (Susan Helen), 1960

ISBN 9 78098035 0203.

Jobbos Publications 2 Fisher Street, White Gum Valley WA 6162 email: [email protected] FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY A simple ‘how to with project ideas

Soosie Jobson Contents

What is FME?...... 5

Uses of FME...... 6

What do you need?...... 6

Stitch Selection...... 8

Stitch Tension & Sample Pieces...... 8

Basic FME...... 9

FME Stitches...... 10

FME Sandwiches - Pellon & Net...... 12

FME & Solubles - Patch...... 13

FME & Solubles - Net & Lace...... 14

FME Applique & Quilting...... 15

FME Cutback...... 17 Free Machine Embroidery

What is FME? FME is the process of ‘painting with threads” to create original and unique embroidered designs. Instead of allowing the machine to create the pattern or image, you guide the work in any direction that you choose. This can be done on any sewing machine as long as you can drop or cover the feed dogs and attach a darning or embroidery foot.

FME is not a new technique, it was apparently created in America but developed and expanded by the embroiderers who worked in the London Embroidery Department of the Singer Sewing Machine Company in 1889. All of which was sewn on a domestic machine.

Straight and zig zag stitches, ‘Smorrebrod’ by Beryl Greves 1972

PAGE 5 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Uses for FME The uses of FME are endless! From simple embellishments to enhance a garment through to creating the whole garment. Accessories, such as bags, scarves and wraps are perfect for FME. You can make lace with FME or paint pictures, create 3D sculptures or wall hangings. Combine the technique of FME and readily available products; such as soluble fabrics, metallic & exotic threads, the only limit is your imagination.

What do you need? Sewing machine Any machine with a darning or embroidery foot. Some manufacturers make a presser foot that has an open circle for better line of sight, others will have a darning foot that can be utilised. Why do we need a presser foot? Two reasons, firstly and foremost it is dangerous to use a sewing machine without a presser foot. Never operate a sewing machine without a presser foot. Secondly a presser foot exerts the correct amount of pressure to enable the stitch lock mechanism to do just that! Lock the stitch with the correct tension and ensure the stitch stays stitched. Both the darning foot and the embroidery foot have a spring mechanism which lifts off the fabric the same time that the needle is in its top position, thus allowing you to move the fabric freely in any direction.

Various darning and embroidery presser feet. Remember... NEVER operate your machine without a presser foot!

PAGE 6 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY It is also useful if you can slow your machine down. Some machines allow you to do this on the peddle and some have adjustments on the control panel, it depends on your type of machine.

Embroidery hoop (optional) Some people like to wedge their piece in an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric smooth, I prefer not to use a hoop but this may take a little more practice.

Threads & Scrap Materials Metallic or variegated thread create fantastic effects in FME, especially in patterns. Ribbons, yarns, wool & silk fibres, or any fabric can be free machined. Stretch fabrics when stretched, then stitched can give yiou some incredible textures. The pieces we are going to create in this book are excellent methods to use up that beloved collection of bits!

Stitch Tension & Sample Pieces Stitch tension will depend on many things: the fabric and how many layers, the thread, the needle size and your machine. As a golden rule start with the ‘normal’ or average setting and play on a test piece first. I find that just below the normal setting is usually the right tension. Make adjustments to the tension in line with your manufacturers’ guidelines for stitch tension until the stitches are smooth and even. Unless of course you want to experiment with loose, tight or bumpy stitches! Tension is a fabulous thing when creating art pieces but when embellishing garments or items to be used, stitch quality always comes first.

You should as a matter of practice always stitch a sample piece using the exact same materials that you intend to use in your project. This will give you several pieces of information firstly the tension required, but also, will the fabrics work together, is the thread the right colour, what kind of stitching

PAGE 7 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY looks best and so on. Better to experiment on a small sample piece and change your mind than working on the project and then rejecting the plan!

Stitch Selection

Perfect tension Tension too loose Tension too tight

Although your machine may have many stitch types available they have little effect when you FME. Through the use of the humble straight and zig zag stitches you can create an amazing array of patterns and textures.

Straight Stitch The fundamental stitch we all love can be used to create bubbles, swirls, dense fill, meandering and of course simple outlining

Zig zag Fantastic for filling large areas, creative outlining and satin stitches of varying widths.

PAGE 8 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Basic FME 1. Safely & securely attach the darning or embroidery foot to your machine. 2. Drop the feed dogs or place the darning plate. 3. Set the stitch length to zero. 4. Select straight stitch. 5. Slow the speed of the machine using the appropriate method, some machines have a switch on the foot peddle, some have a choice on the panel and some can not vary the speed. 6. Thread the machine. 7. You are now ready to go! 8. Place 2 pieces of scrap fabric together and have a go at stitching. At first the idea is to keep your foot pressure constant on the peddle and change the length of the stitch by moving the piece quicker or slower. Once you have mastered the technique you can actually use the peddle speed to create interesting effects, but let’s walk before we run. 9. Your sholders should be down, not hunched up around your neck and your hands should be comfortable. Don’t hang onto the fabric for grim death, you’ll just get sore hands! You are guiding the fabric not forcing it! Keep stitching, adjusting the tension and playing until you feel comfortable and gain some confidence.

FME Stitches Even FME has it’s own terminology and jargon, including the stitches we create. Prepare 2 pieces of scrap fabric, test the tension and lets practice our stitches.

PAGE 9 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Straight Flow Use straight stitch to stitch in long flowing lines, over stitching where desired to create depth. The sample pictured right is velvet, silk fibres, glass organza and variegated thread, straight flow stitched over the top. First stitch the stem and main branches, then back up again the add the detail. Continue until you are happy!

Bubbles As suggested you stitch in a round and round fashion to create bubbles or circles. Again using one continuous flow, go clockwise then reverse and go anticlockwise, try a figue 8. The image right is felt, wool tops and glass organza, with bubbles and zig zag fill stitch.

PAGE 10 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Meandering Using straight stitch in a continuous line you meander around without crossing over the stitches, sometimes coming to a dead end! Pictured right, pellon, satin and chiffon sandwich, meandered with variegated thread.

Spirals Now for the spirals, it doesn’t matter whether you start from the outside or the inside which ever is more comfortable for you. Try stitching the spiral over and over, it will raise the fabric into a cone shape.

Zig Zag Fill Use zig zag to fill an area, ensure you keep moving and in all directions including turning a full 180-3600.

PAGE 11 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY FME Sandwiches - Pellon & Fairy Net Now that you have practiced and mastered the basics let’s make a beautiful panel for a bag, table runner or cushion. We will sandwich fibres, scraps and yarns under net, very thin chiffon or even bridal veiling, then FME over the top.

Materials Bottom layer Pellon (synthetic wadding) Decorative layer - Silk or wool fibres, yarns, scrap of fabric anything you like that you can sew over. Top Layer - Fairy Net, Bridal veiling, glass organza, any shear fabric Stitch layer - Embroidery thread Straight flow & spiral stitch, organza top layer. Make the sandwich Lay out the pellon rough side up. Next layer the wool, silk fibres, fabric, exotic fibres or yarns. Now lay the fairy net over the top and gently pin into place. You are ready to embroider your sandwich.

Lets Begin Load the bobbin with a good black or white thread and thread your machine with the embroidery thread. Place your piece in your machine. Stitch the edges to secure and you can remove the outer pins. Straight flow stitch with fairy net top layer.

PAGE 12 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY The idea with FME is to keep a constant speed of stitch and move the piece quicker or slower to change the length and look of the stitch. Lower the foot and begin. Stitch with your choice of stitches to produce a pattern. Fabric strips under fairy net with bubbles, spirals and straight flow FME and Solubles Soluble fabric disolves in cold water. Solubles have many uses, one being making lace, net or patches and they are our next projects. I like to use the ‘paper like’ soluble, as you can trace and draw on it with soluble pen, especially for more precise designs.

Patch Preparation Cut 2 pieces of soluble and trace or draw an image onto one piece, using a soluble pen. Never use black texta or pencil to trace your design, they will leave residue. Gather colourful threads, fibres or yarns.

Making the Patch Lay down the soluble without the design. Cover with your exotic yarns and threads extending over the edges of the image. Lay the other piece of soluble with the traced image facing up. Pin all of the pieces together.

PAGE 13 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Stitch Using straight stitch follow all of the design details. This anchors the threads. Now use a variety of stitches to sew all over the image ensuring that the stitches are interlocked. If this doesn’t occur your patch will fall apart when the soluble is dissolved. Finish off the loose ends, trim back excess soluble and threads. Soak in cold water with a drop of fabric softener to remove the soluble. Once dry further trim loose threads back to the design edge.

Net Preparation Cut 2 pieces of soluble and trace the image onto one piece, using a soluble pen. Gather colourful threads, fibres or yarns

Making the net sandwich Lay down the soluble without the design. Next the fairy net, cover with your exotic yarns and threads extending over the edges of the image. Lay the other piece of soluble with the traced design facing up. Pin all of the pieces together.

Stitch

Superstar Indian - Embroidered & Textured organza Shawl 2006 Soluble fabric held the silk fibres in place on the fairy net and was then FME with variegated thread. Gives a very light ethereal look and feel.

PAGE 14 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Proceed as previously, stitching your desired design and dissolve the soluble. Lace Preparation Cut 2 pieces of soluble and draw your lace design using a soluble pen. Ensure that the design is interlock with stitches if making open lace. This is the principal that spiders use making their webs, each thread is interconnected. If not the lace will fall apart when the soluble is dissolved.

Stitch Proceed as previously, stitching your desired design and dissolve the soluble.

FME Applique & Quilting Outline images or motifs with FME instead of the traditional satin stitch. The wrap pictured right is outlined hand painted silk using straight stitch in gold metallic thread.

This opens up all kinds of opportunities, you can print images from your digital camera through an inkjet printer on to several different kinds of fabric and then applique. Cut out images from printed fabric and applique using contrasting or

PAGE 15 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY complimentary threads to enhance the image. Get your children or grand children to draw onto to plain fabric with fabric crayons, set according to the instructions then FME outline applique onto a bag or memento blanket. FME your quilting stitch! Use bubbles or meandering to give your next quilt a different look.

Hints If your metallic or exotic thread keeps breaking when you embroider, change the needle to ensure it’s sharp. If the needle is blunt it doesn’t create a neat hole through which the thread can pass and often catches the thread, it splits, then breaks.

Also try keeping your thread in the freezer! It creates a smooth almost slippery surface and can assist.

PAGE 16 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY FME and Cutbacks Preparation Cut a pellon panel to your required measurements, remembering to include for any seam allowance (be generous). Cut 2 pieces of soluble, 1 of background fabric and 1 of fairy net to the same measurements.

Trace the pattern with all the details onto 1 piece of soluble, placing the images where you would like . Trace the exact same design onto the second piece of soluble, but only the outlines not all the detail. This piece is the template for laying out your decorative fibres. Sandwich Lay down the pellon rough side up. Lay the background fabric next and the outlined soluble. Decorate with the fibres or scrap fabrics to suit your design. Lay the net. Lay the detail soluble last. Pin all the layers together. Stitch Embroider following the design traced on the soluble. Use a variety of stitches to enhance the design. Finish off loose ends and trim. Trim back excess soluble. Soak in cold water to remove the soluble. Trim back the net and fibres to the edges of the images.

PAGE 17 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY From the Studio Detritus range 2013 Brooch - Fine merino wool handmade felt, silk paper, nuno felt, free machien embroidery and glass beads

PAGE 18 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Neckalces: Fine merino wool handmade felt, silk paper, nuno felt, free machien embroidery and glass beads.

Earrings: Fine merino wool handmade felt, silk paper, nuno felt, free machien embroidery and glass beads.

PAGE 19 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Fig, Fir, Fern. Free machine embroidered felt mounted on canvas.

PAGE 20 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY MORE BOOKS FROM SOOSIE...

HOW TO MAKE FELT Three techniques, A step by step guide

A simple step by step guide to making felt using three alternative methods. Traditional Roll & Toss, Sand & Tumble using power tools and Tie & Tumble utilising your tumble dryer. The Recipe section contains loads of information about choices in tools and methods. Clear instructions with photos and diagrams.

MAKING PATTERNS FOR FELT GARMENTS The question I hear most from felters is; Do you have a pattern? Many felters have mastered the seamless resists method of making garments but lack the dressmaking skills to create patterns or templates for garments that are fitted and shaped. By using your own measurements at standard dressmaking points we can translate those details into a template that can be used over and over again. The type of garments you can make are only limited by your imagination.

PAGE 21 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY STRUCTURAL AND SCULPTURAL COMPLEX 3D SHAPES IN FELT Learn how to shape and mould felt into complex 3D forms using a variety of template resist and prefelt methods for wet felting techniques. You only need basic felting skills to start as the multiple felting techniques in 11 sessions and 9 projects, in Structural and Sculptural, will give you the foundation skills to create your own complex shapes in felt. Loads of images and diagrams, and step by step instructions will lead you through the processes.

TORTURED TEXTILES Use ancient Japanese Shibori techniques to texturise and shape synthetic fabrics permanently to create stunning fashion accessories, without high tech or expensive tools.

Clear, concise instructions. Simple diagrams with each step.

PAGE 22 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY A simple ‘how to with project ideas

Learn to paint with your sewing machine. This book gives clear instructions on how to create beautiful free machine embroidery on any brand of sewing machine. Simple step by step instructions, diagrams and full colour photos for 5 projects.

Soosie Jobson is an award winning Textile Artist who specialises in Wearable Art. Combining her sewing skills, learnt from her mother when only 8 years old, with modern techniques and products she creates spectacular textile art. From fashion accessories through to home wares Soosie draws inspiration from her environment, nature and ancient cultures. Soosie has been an adult educator for 20 years and loves to teach, holding regular workshops and classes. This experience has highlighted a need for quick and simple instruction books with ideas on how to utilise skills and loads of photos to illustrate.

For further information visit www.feltwest.com.au