FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY A simple how to with project ideas Soosie Jobson Other titles include: HOW TO MAKE FELT MAKING PETTERNS FOR GARMENTS TORTURED TEXTILES CALCULATING SHRINKAGE RATES This book is copyright. Apart from that permitted under the Copyright Act, no portion can be reproduced or copied in any form, or by any means, without prior written permission by the author. The information, opinions, recommendations and ideas contained in this book are based on the experience of the author and research which is believed to be accurate, but not infallible. The advice in this book is given in good faith and follows acceptable professional standards. All effort was made to render this book free from error and omission. However the author, publisher, editor, their employees or agents shall not accept responsibility for injury, loss or damage to any person or body or organisation acting or refraining from action as a result of the materials in this book, whether or not such injury, loss or damage is in any way due to any negligent act or omission, breach of duty, or default on the part of the author, publisher, editor or their employees or agents. FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY 1st Edition 2007 © Jobson, Soosie (Susan Helen), 1960 ISBN 9 78098035 0203. Jobbos Publications 2 Fisher Street, White Gum Valley WA 6162 email: [email protected] FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY A simple ‘how to with project ideas Soosie Jobson Contents What is FME? ................................................................................................................................5 Uses of FME ...................................................................................................................................6 What do you need? ..................................................................................................................6 Stitch Selection .............................................................................................................................8 Stitch Tension & Sample Pieces ...........................................................................................8 Basic FME ........................................................................................................................................9 FME Stitches ................................................................................................................................10 FME Sandwiches - Pellon & Net ......................................................................................12 FME & Solubles - Patch .........................................................................................................13 FME & Solubles - Net & Lace ............................................................................................14 FME Applique & Quilting .....................................................................................................15 FME Cutback ...............................................................................................................................17 Free Machine Embroidery What is FME? FME is the process of ‘painting with threads” to create original and unique embroidered designs. Instead of allowing the machine to create the pattern or image, you guide the work in any direction that you choose. This can be done on any sewing machine as long as you can drop or cover the feed dogs and attach a darning or embroidery foot. FME is not a new technique, it was apparently created in America but developed and expanded by the embroiderers who worked in the London Embroidery Department of the Singer Sewing Machine Company in 1889. All of which was sewn on a domestic machine. Straight and zig zag stitches, ‘Smorrebrod’ by Beryl Greves 1972 PAGE 5 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Uses for FME The uses of FME are endless! From simple embellishments to enhance a garment through to creating the whole garment. Accessories, such as bags, scarves and wraps are perfect for FME. You can make lace with FME or paint pictures, create 3D sculptures or wall hangings. Combine the technique of FME and readily available products; such as soluble fabrics, metallic & exotic threads, the only limit is your imagination. What do you need? Sewing machine Any machine with a darning or embroidery foot. Some manufacturers make a presser foot that has an open circle for better line of sight, others will have a darning foot that can be utilised. Why do we need a presser foot? Two reasons, firstly and foremost it is dangerous to use a sewing machine without a presser foot. Never operate a sewing machine without a presser foot. Secondly a presser foot exerts the correct amount of pressure to enable the stitch lock mechanism to do just that! Lock the stitch with the correct tension and ensure the stitch stays stitched. Both the darning foot and the embroidery foot have a spring mechanism which lifts off the fabric the same time that the needle is in its top position, thus allowing you to move the fabric freely in any direction. Various darning and embroidery presser feet. Remember... NEVER operate your machine without a presser foot! PAGE 6 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY It is also useful if you can slow your machine down. Some machines allow you to do this on the peddle and some have adjustments on the control panel, it depends on your type of machine. Embroidery hoop (optional) Some people like to wedge their piece in an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric smooth, I prefer not to use a hoop but this may take a little more practice. Threads & Scrap Materials Metallic or variegated thread create fantastic effects in FME, especially in patterns. Ribbons, yarns, wool & silk fibres, or any fabric can be free machined. Stretch fabrics when stretched, then stitched can give yiou some incredible textures. The pieces we are going to create in this book are excellent methods to use up that beloved collection of bits! Stitch Tension & Sample Pieces Stitch tension will depend on many things: the fabric and how many layers, the thread, the needle size and your machine. As a golden rule start with the ‘normal’ or average setting and play on a test piece first. I find that just below the normal setting is usually the right tension. Make adjustments to the tension in line with your manufacturers’ guidelines for stitch tension until the stitches are smooth and even. Unless of course you want to experiment with loose, tight or bumpy stitches! Tension is a fabulous thing when creating art pieces but when embellishing garments or items to be used, stitch quality always comes first. You should as a matter of practice always stitch a sample piece using the exact same materials that you intend to use in your project. This will give you several pieces of information firstly the tension required, but also, will the fabrics work together, is the thread the right colour, what kind of stitching PAGE 7 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY looks best and so on. Better to experiment on a small sample piece and change your mind than working on the project and then rejecting the plan! Stitch Selection Perfect tension Tension too loose Tension too tight Although your machine may have many stitch types available they have little effect when you FME. Through the use of the humble straight and zig zag stitches you can create an amazing array of patterns and textures. Straight Stitch The fundamental stitch we all love can be used to create bubbles, swirls, dense fill, meandering and of course simple outlining Zig zag Fantastic for filling large areas, creative outlining and satin stitches of varying widths. PAGE 8 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Basic FME 1. Safely & securely attach the darning or embroidery foot to your machine. 2. Drop the feed dogs or place the darning plate. 3. Set the stitch length to zero. 4. Select straight stitch. 5. Slow the speed of the machine using the appropriate method, some machines have a switch on the foot peddle, some have a choice on the panel and some can not vary the speed. 6. Thread the machine. 7. You are now ready to go! 8. Place 2 pieces of scrap fabric together and have a go at stitching. At first the idea is to keep your foot pressure constant on the peddle and change the length of the stitch by moving the piece quicker or slower. Once you have mastered the technique you can actually use the peddle speed to create interesting effects, but let’s walk before we run. 9. Your sholders should be down, not hunched up around your neck and your hands should be comfortable. Don’t hang onto the fabric for grim death, you’ll just get sore hands! You are guiding the fabric not forcing it! Keep stitching, adjusting the tension and playing until you feel comfortable and gain some confidence. FME Stitches Even FME has it’s own terminology and jargon, including the stitches we create. Prepare 2 pieces of scrap fabric, test the tension and lets practice our stitches. PAGE 9 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY Straight Flow Use straight stitch to stitch in long flowing lines, over stitching where desired to create depth. The sample pictured right is velvet, silk fibres, glass organza and variegated thread, straight flow stitched over the top. First stitch the stem and main branches, then back up again the add the detail. Continue until you are happy! Bubbles As suggested you stitch in a round and round fashion to create bubbles or circles. Again using one continuous flow, go clockwise then reverse and go anticlockwise, try a figue 8. The image right is felt, wool tops and glass organza, with bubbles and zig zag fill stitch. PAGE 10 - FREE MACHINE EMBROIDERY