Invisibles Présences from the 10th of September to the 10th of October 2019 Clothing, conceived as a work of art, becomes suggestion, incarnation of an absent body and takes us elsewhere, to the intangible, the immaterial. He becomes a semiotic trace, a reference in our history, a traveling companion between the past and the pre- sent, a memory holder for generations to come. As true archaeologists, Aurore Thibout, Karine Nguyen Van Tham, Xavier Brisoux and Popy-Loly de Monteysson are inspired by vanished civilizations, ancestral rituals whose vestiges are the witnesses sometimes imbued with sacred. These artworks in which the garment is sometimes fos- silized, sometimes suspended like a relic, inevitably send us back to the impermanence of things. Xavier Brisoux

A knitwear designer from London’s Central creation, its trial and errors. It is important Saint Martins’ MA Fashion course, Xavier that the garment besides being a technical Brisoux designs collections where knitting is feature becomes an architectural challenge. built like a story: yarns are used for words, When Xavier Brisoux meets Isabelle Soum, the stitches for vocabulary, the theme be- he has started creating knitted shapes that comes the fabric. Knitwear is poetry and are becoming objects more so than gar- concept for him as he mixes material and ments. technique to structure the idea. He often draws his inspiration from history as well as from the general and founding myths, from which he derives his knitted textiles stitch by stitch. One of his collection was for example based on Penelope, the wea- ver-unweaver wife of Ulysses. His mastery of knitwear allows him a total control of possibilities: de-knittable sweaters, challen- ging constructions and sculptural stitches. Brisoux knits this territory of an all-is- possible with an apparent nonchalance.

After having developed his own collections for several years, the knitter questions fashion and its cycles, and starts working with a different perspective. For him, it is now more important to work towards perfection than towards a deadline. A new long-term project is born. It is then a matter of creating knitted armours where he pushes the technique and the craft into the boundaries of their fragility. The Achille’s Echo series is born. The myth of the Trojan hero is at the origin of this research. It aims at conveying the fragility behind an apparent invincibility, to draw a futuristic look inspired by the ancient Greece myths while assuming other histo- rical and fashion references, and to enhance the anatomical aspect of the armour in parallel with the organic appearance that they adopt when they are not worn. Xavier Brisoux Xavier Brisoux sets himself as the Hephaes- ASCLÉPODAMIE, 2016 tus of Knitwear, shaping unique pieces with Cotton, polyester the acceptance of the time necessary for 33 cm x 70 cm Xavier Brisoux & Isabelle Soum HEEL ACHE, 2016 Cotton and resin 20 cm x 20 cm x 17 cm

« The first ever sculpture designed by the artistic duo is based on the myth of Trojan warrior Achilles. The sculpture referring to a part of his armour em- phases the paradox between invincibility and fragi- lity. The sculpture represents a cube of ice that an archaeologist would dig out not from the past, but from the future and therefore the work raises the question of time and its linearity. Its structure illus- trates geological strata. The colour contrast empha- sizes the vulnerable body part of the hero while the hardness of the resin evokes its invulnerability. The knitted sculpture remains partly undipped like the fateful heel of Achilles. » - Xavier Brisoux Popy-Loly de Monteysson

After studying at Penninghen’s This artwork was born from the search School of Art Direction (ESAG-Met) for materials reminiscent of childhood and National School of Decorative and the relation to injunctions that Arts (ENSAD) in Paris, Popy-Loly one meets at this period, especial- de Monteysson completed her studies ly little girls. The artist brings back, with a Philosophy program, at the Ca- through a superposition of images, all tholic University of Paris. She then her childhood memories. explored the world of dramaturgy with The princess dress and the dreamlike Eugenio Barba, researcher at the Odin image of its flight into the sky give Teatret International School of An- birth (or re-birth) to an ultimate thropology in Denmark, and completed need for freedom, fugue, and escape her research on body displacement and that represented the dream at that scenographic installation with profes- time. sors from GITIS Moscow. Her artistic experience ranges from theatrical decoration, to theater cos- See more tumes, illustrations, and artistic di- rection.

Popy-Loly de Monteysson La robe qui s’envolait dans le vent, 2018-19 «Memory of childhood» series Dress : organdy fabric, feathers, wire Drawing : printing of an original drawing 1/1 ballpoint pen, re-drawn with ballpoint pen, on glossy photographic paper Dress : 90 cm x 90 cm x 30 cm - Drawing : 29 cm x 21 cm Karine N’guyen Van Tham

After her studies at the Beaux- Karine doesn’t create simple clo- arts of Marseille, in space design, thes. She weaves, through each Karine N’guyen Van Tham followed piece, links, bridges between the a training in upholstery. visible and the invisible, the real She made in 2013 her first own and the dreamlike. linen lines, before deciding in 2017 to design her own textiles with Hand weaving, vegetable fibers, her loom. Today, in the slammi- silk, natural dye and natural pine ng of the smooth of her japanese cones’s scales; Each piece, unique weaving Saori she realizes wall and precious, is intimately linked hanging textiles works thought as to nature, bringing us closer to inheritances. the earth and taking us to other A being imagined and narrated by spheres. Karine herself, between personal mythology and dreamlike charac- See more ters.

Karine N’guyen Van Tham En lien, 2017 Hand-made weaving, sewing, vegetable scales embroidery Linen, real gold wire, cotton, pine cones 37 cm x 150 cm « Clothing is for me an inseparable element of being, it is shaped to us to become our second skin. A soul support to invest or never leave. I see in the garment an indefectible proof of the existence of a being rendering it in some way im- mortal. It is a living trace that persists over de- cades, centuries. » - Karine N’guyen Van Tham Aurore Thibout

Based in Paris, Au- and abroad and presents rore Thibout defines her work in selected her practice in terms of high-end boutiques and both art and fashion. galleries. Her work blends various media and approaches, Since 2013, her research including costume design, on exclusive collections is sculpture, installation, focused on natural dyes and has been exhibited and sustainable printing internationally at ve- process, a bridge between nues such as the Musee heritage, ecology and in- de la Dentelle in Calais, novation. the Atopos Museum in Athens, Underline Gal- Inspired by the concept lery in New York…She of memory and trace, studied fashion design at the «Gisants» are called the Duperre Ecole Supe- from a dialogue between rieure des Arts Appliques sculpture and fabric. and the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Arts De- “Gisants” or “Fossil Clo- coratifs. Inspired by Me- thes” embody life and mory and Trace, she de- death at the same time. velops her own range of These stelae testify to unique designs a “ Me- the passage of time, ar- mory Clothes’ series”: chaeological traces, ar- collection of one of a chives captured from kind pieces at the border past centuries, figures in of clothes and textile time but waiting for a art. Awards include The rebirth. Public Grand Prix Award Hyeres Fashion Festi- The pieces presented val 2006, The Creation at this exhibition are Grand Prix Award from artworks that tell a sto- Aurore Thibout the City of Paris 2013, ry about disappearance, Modestie, 2019 Villa Kujoyama Art re- an homage to imperma- Plaster sidency 2015. By using nence and also a memory 61,5cm x 40cm x 4,5cm traditionnal and craft call out for the future. techniques, she develops collaboration with small scales artisans in France See more Aurore Thibout Modestie, 2019 Plaster 61,5cm x 40cm x 4,5cm

« The delicacy of their original craft, the use of Batiste cotton, Organdy, cotton gauze, lawns, the purity of whites comes directly in contradiction with the action that I impose on them. It is a kind of sacrifice, where the original parts die and live again. Their initial form becomes an abstraction, loses its indications of colors, reverses vision and sensations, becomes a «negative of living». » - Aurore Thibout Address : 36 rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 75003 Paris From Tuesday to Saturday, 11am - 7pm Subway stations : Arts et métiers, République, Temple Phone: 01 48 04 72 12 Email : [email protected]

Facebook : @TheFiberyGallery Instagram : @thefiberygalleryparis Website : www.thefibery.fr Popy-Loly de Monteysson’s Exhibitions

Group Exhibitions :

• 2019, march/april - The Fibery, Paris 03 • 2018, november/december - VOZ’GALERIE, Boulogne Billancourt, « Trouble D’identité », commissariat Isabelle de maison Rouge • 2018, november/december - Aldebaran, Lieu d’art Contemporain, Installation Mu- rale « Portraits d’identité 2 » • 2018, march - Ddessin, salon du dessin contemporain Paris « Carnet de voyage » • 2017, november/december - Galerie Valérie Delaunay Paris « Le Paradoxe du Car- tel » • 2017, march - Ddessin, salon du dessin contemporain « Portrait d’identité 1 »

Solo Exhibitions :

• 2015 - « De Profundis » Galerie Ephemère, Paris 16 • 2010 - « Organic/Iconic » workshop exhibition, Saint-Germain-en-Laye • 2005 - « Les fleurs du mal » workshop exhibition, Saint-Germain-en-Laye

Collective Exhibition :

• 1996 - « face to face » Height Block Museum of Arts, Chicago • 1994 - « Beautés fracassés », Yerba Bueno Center of the Arts, San Fransisco • 1988 - « New face-New Age », Los Angeles Municipal Gallery, Los Angeles • 1983 - « Body Troubles & Fairy Tales » Brooklyn Museum of Arts New York Karine N’guyen Van Tham’s Prize and Exhibitions

Price: • Winner of the 2017 «Ateliers d’Art de France» regional contest with her work «Cérémonie Lunaire» - Creation Prize - Brittany Region

Expositions: • From September 06 to October 08, 2019 - Exhibition «Parures, Objets d’art à porter» - Factory Museum of Roubaix • From August 1rst to October 20, 2019 - Solo show at the art galery «La cour des métiers d’Art» - Pont-scorff, Brittany • From September 20 to October 29, 2017 - «L’atelier, d’Ateliers d’Art de France» - Paris • From 08 to 12 September 2017 - Salon Maison & Objet - Paris Aurore Thibout’s Curriculum Vitae fashion: • 2009: creation of the brand Aurore Thibout. • 2009-2019 : Artisanal collections “Color Of Time” ; Limited editions, High Range Ready to wear ; Natural dyes and Indigo, Taiwan, Japan ; Collections “Memory Clothes” High Range Ready-to wear, unique pieces and limited editions. • 2001-2003: Styliste pour la Maison Martin Margiela, Paris ; Ligne Artisanale 0 for Men and Women High range Ready to wear. Creation and development for collections based on vintage recycled clothes and accessories.

Awards and Residences :

• 2015: Awarded Villa Kujoyama Art residency 2015, Kyoto Japan • 2013: Awarded “Paris Grand Prix of the Creation” Fashion • 2013 : National Taiwan Craft Research and development Institute, Residency Hand in Hand Project : Collaboration with local artisans and development of a textile limited edi- tion based on natural fibers, indigo and vegetable dyes. • 2011: The Workshop Residence San Francisco Art residency : Creation of a line of ceramic jewelry, vessel, clothing and artworks inspired by Memory and Trace. Limited edition objects produced in the San Francisco bay area with local manufacturers. • 2006: 21ST Hyeres International Fashion Festival : Public Grand Prix Award 2006, “Memory Clothes” collection

Costume Design, Installations and Performances:

- 2019: “DIALOGUE SUR LE FIL” MUSEUM OF HUNTING AND NATURE, installation and performance with musician Violaine Lochu, Villa Kujoyama, Première Vision et Maison d’Exceptions, Paris. - IS IT WORTH TO SAVE US Kaori Ito and Mirai Moriyama, Danse, France-Japan - 2018: HIROSHI SUGIMOTO, CHÂTEAU DE VERSAILLES: Performance dance “Maison” of Kaori Ito, exhibition“Surface de Révolution” Petit Trianon. SHISEIDO THE STORE GINZA, TOKYO: Creation of Windows set “Wind of Spring”, J “Robots, l’amour éternel” Kaori Ito , dance, Paris - 2016 “L’Orfeo di Monteverdi”, costumes design for Opera directed by Julie Bérès, Bas- tille, Opera and Lyric Academy Paris - 2014 “ Petit Eyolf” directed by Julie Beres, National Theatre Comedy of Caen - 2012- 13 “Lendemain de Fête” directed by Julie Beres, MC2 Grenoble - 2010, « Notre Besoin de consolation» by Julie Bérès , National Quartz Theatre, Brest - 2009 “Tous les garçons et les filles”, directed by Jean-Philippe Naas, dance - La Rose des Vents Villeneuve d’Ascq National Theatre - 2008 “Sous les Visages” directed by Julie Beres, National Theatre Quartz in Brest - 2008 “Le petit Chaperon Uf” directed by Cyril Bourgois, National Theatre of Dieppes - 2007 “Vertige” Clemence Coconnier, circus, Festival 100 Dessus Dessous La Villette - 2007 «Mille et Une Nuits» directed by David Girondin Moab, TGP Saint Denis. - 2004 « E-muet» directed by Julie Beres, National Theatre of Chaillot, Paris

Solo and Collective Exhibitions :

• 2019: Hankyu Department Store, Aurore Thibout X Tango Open, Osaka. • 2019: Wacoal Studyhall Kyoto, Mai Miyake X Aurore Thibout, withVilla Kujoyama. • 2018: “Création Sous Influence” Ateliers de Paris, Ville de Paris, Ville de Kyoto, Ville de Tokyo, Institut Français et Villa Kujoyama. • 2018: Exhibition Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin, Chambre des Métiers et de l’Artisanat • 2017: Exhibition “Design et Artisanat d’Art”, Chambre des Métiers, Paris • 2017: Exhibition “A.I Intelligence” Roma Fashion Week, Italy • 2016: “Le Paris des Talents” 10th anniversary of the Ateliers de Paris, Hôtel de Ville • 2015: “Regards Croises” France-Japon, the Villa Kujoyama et Flag France Renaissance in the Celle Saint Cloud • 2015: Passage kodo-kan, “Kyoto Nuits Blanches” avec Makoto Ofune, Institut Français, Villa Kujoyama • 2014: “In Absentia” Galerie Coullaud-Kolinsky, Lydia Kamitsis, Paris • 2014: “Paris Taiwan” D’days Hand In Hand et Ntcri, Bastille Design Center, • 2014: “Handwerk und Design” exhibitions with Chambres des Métiers Paris-Berlin • 2013: “Etat(s) de la Matière” Designer’s Days 2013 Galerie S.Bensimon, with Wiithaa Upcycling Network • 2012: “Shop ii” exposition, New York, Underline Gallery • 2012: “Tranoi Design Talents“ et Les Ateliers De Paris • 2011: “Cocotte Design exhibition”, The Designer‘s Days Paris, « Talents à la Carte » Maison et Objet International Trade show Paris “Ofr Logis” Ofr Gallery • 2010: “Esprit Lingerie” exhibition, Museum of Lace of Calais“Portez-vous bien?” collec- tive exhibition in Le Bourget Cultural Center • 2009: “Traces” The Leonard Pearlstein Gallery, Drexel University Philadelphia : Instal- lation and clothes : Aurore Thibout, Photography: Patricia Canino • 2007: «RRRRIPP!! Paper Fashion» Chrysalis Dress commissioned by Atopos Museum in Athens • 2004: Galliera Museum Paris, acquisition of 3 unique pieces from “Memory clothes” collection • 2002: ”Frozen” exhibition, art residence with the Felt Factory and Museum of Mouzon, France Fondation Cartier Fashion show and performance «Les Soirées Nomades” under the direction of artists Lucy Orta et Marc Le Bihan

Teaching and Workshops :

• 2019 : Ateliers du Carrousel, Museum of Decorative Arts, workshop Paris • 2019 : Les Compagnons du Devoir, Pôle des Materiaux Souples Pantin, workshop on na- tural dyes and leather techniques for « Defi Innover ensemble » • 2018: Taipei, Oriental Institute of Technology, Masterclass et conférence, Taiwa • 2017: The Textile museum of Canada “Heritage, dialogue and creation” lecture and Mas- ter class, Toronto • 2017 : Taiwan, Shu-Te University, direction of upcycling fashion workshop “The lines we live by” • 2016: NTCRI Taiwan, workshop “Hybridation” natural dyes and upcycling • 2015: ESAA Duperré, teaching for BA Fashion design 1rst and 2nd grade. • 2014: Taiwan Chu Chien University, Taiwan Oriental Institute of Technology, workshop, Taipei • 2013: IFA Paris: instructor for Fashion Postgraduate students • 2012: ESAA Duperré, Paris, Intensive workshops with Postgraduate students in Ap- plied Art (Fashion, textile, industrial design) New York Pratt Institute Brooklyn, in- tensive workshop “Captured shadows” California College of the Arts, San Francisco/ De Young Museum Art Council and the TWR San Francisco: intensive “Manipulating fabric “workshops • 2011: Taiwan Shu-Te University/ NTCRI Direction of the workshop “Printing and volume” • 2010: Paris International Fashion Academy: instructor with Fashion Postgraduate stu- dents • 2010 : Arts of Fashion Foundation, Direction of Summer Masterclass in Museum of De- corative Arts, Paris “Made in Clothes” • 2010 : Arts of Fashion Foundation, San Francisco, Direction of the workshop Textile surface “Wool it”, Arts Institute of California • 2009: Drexel University Philadelphia/ Arts of Fashion Foundation Direction of a workshop printing and shape “Wishing to see is enough to believe that you are seeing” • 2008: ESAA Duperré, Paris / Foundation Arts of Fashion Direction of Summer Master class “Textile and material” with international Fashion students