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Fall 2006 Textile Society of America Newsletter 18:3 — Fall 2006 Textile Society of America

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This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. VOLUME 18 . NUMBER 3 • FALL, 2006

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CONTENTS Last-Minute showcases a range of contem­ The response was enthusiastic porary Canadian art addressing and it is hoped that the number TSA Symposium 2006 Symposium Preview . and value of awards can increase 2 President's Letter y THE TIME YOU READ THIS The Distillery District, located in the future. 4 TSA News, TSA Symposium, B newsletter the 10th Biennial in the old industrial distillery Several exhibition venues TSA Member News Symposium at Harbourfront in area of the city, is architectur­ will feature textile-based work by current students and recent 6 Education News will be nearly upon us. ally interesting and also home to This marks the culmination of many galleries, shops and cafes. graduates of Canadian schools. 7 Collections News, Open only to pedestrian traffic, Harbourfront Centre, site of the In Memoriam several years of planning and a Symposium sessions, presents a very steep learning curve. We the area promotes culture, the 8 Featured Collection series of vitrines which will be are very excited to welcome you arts and entertainment in a lively filled with 20 and 3D work by 9 Exhibition Reviews all to the Symposium, and to and appealing area of the city. An afternoon might only scratch graduates from Alberta College 10 Book Reviews Toronto, this October. Here is a of Art, Concordia University, little more information to whet the surface here. Plan to add an I I Conference Reviews Nova Scotia College of Art and appetites. extra day or so to your visit, if 12 Calendar-Exhibitions you can, to partake in all of this. Design, and College of Related Exhibitions Art and Design. 14 Calendar-Lectures, Organizations serve constitu­ Workshops A number of local galleries and encies, and emerging scholars, The student gallery of the artists, and practitioners of dis­ Ontario College of Art and 15 Calls for Papers, museums will be presenting exhi­ Conferences & Symposia, bitions which engage in some parate textile disciplines are an Design, just a stone's throw from Grants way with textiles. Attendees important component of the the , will be host­ will find a useful listing in the TSA community. We have tried ing the opening of an exhibition conference package, along with to include students at all levels of miniatures by students across advice on where to eat, self in this Symposium. Some will be Canada on Thursday evening, guided tours, night life, and so presenting research and scholar­ 5 :00-7 :OOpm, planned to coin­ on. Near-by areas worth visiting ship, some will be participating cide with the 6:30 reception at in exhibitions planned around the . THE TEXTILE SOCIETY OF include the Parkdale area, where the Symposium venue, and oth­ In addition to the schools noted AMERICA, INC. PROVIDES AN many artist and designer studios ers will be attending for the first above, work will be presented INTERNATIONAL FORUM FOR as well as the Gladstone from Capilano College and THE EXCHANGE AND DISSEMINA­ are located. The Gladstone, site time, trying to decide where to Kootenay School of the Arts in TION OF INFORMATION ABOUT of studios and artist-designed direct future studies or research. BC; Sheridan College in Toronto; TEXTILES WORLDWIDE, hotel rooms, represents some of For the first time the orga­ the Centre de Recherche FROM ARTISTIC, CULTURAL, the best hip urban thinking in nization awarded five student et de Design en Impression ECONOMIC, HISTORIC, the city. The exhibition "HAND­ scholarships to those currently Textile, and Centre des Textiles POLITICAL, SOCIAL, AND FACE-BODY" at the Gladstone enrolled in, or recently complet­ TECHNICAL PERSPECTIVES. ing, education in the textile field. Contemporains de Montreal; the to p.4 completes her Board term as will strengthen TSA even more TSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS Past President, and I can't thank with her organizational skills and OFFICERS her enough for her leadership commitment to giving her all to PRESIDENT and all of the important work any task she takes on. I know I Pamela Parmal she has done for TSA. She has am leaving TSA in very capable TEL 617/369-3707 FAX 617/262-6549 been an extraordinary mentor, hands. [email protected] and I am deeply grateful that During the past two years VICE PRESIDENT she had enough faith in my Carol served as Chair of the Carol Bier abilities to ask me to serve as TEL 202/667-0441 ext. 19 Publications Committee. This [email protected] Vice President during her term. AS I WRITE THIS, I ANTICIPATE committee included Ashley These past two years, while she Brown Callahan, Laura Strand, TREASURER with pleasure the TSA Patricia Cox Crews Symposium in Toronto, and with should have been allowed to Karen Searle, lisa Kriner and TEL 402/472-6342 some sadness the last Board gracefully and quietly complete Mary Mallia. Each member of [email protected] her term, she agreed to serve the committee takes responsibil­ meeting over which I will pre­ RECORDING SECRETARY side. Serving as the President of as chair of the new Awards ity for one of TSA's public out­ Madelyn Shaw TSA for the past two years has Committee. This committee also reach vehicles. Ashley ably and TEL 401/454-6515 [email protected] been a privilege and a rewarding included Vita Plume, Madelyn conscientiously updates the TSA experience. Since I joined the Shaw, Mary Ann Fitzgerald, website weekly with the help of DIRECTOR OF INTERNAL RELATIONS and Patricia Cox Crews, who Dorie Clay of Marinpro, web­ Lisa Kriner Board in 2000 as co-Chair for TEL 859/985-3547 FAX 859/985-3541 the Northampton Symposium, I worked hard to develop a master. We have been extremely [email protected] new award/financial aid pro­ fortunate in having Ashley to have watched the organization DIRECTOR OF EXTERNAL RELATIONS grow, stabilize, and expand its gram. The establishment of manage this important aspect of Laura Strand programs. TSA is now in a place Symposium scholarships through TSA's public face. TEL 618/692-4170 FAX 618/650-3096 [email protected] where it can begin to return the the Student/New Professionals Laura Strand has served as support that its membership has Awards and the Founding manager of the TSA listserve and PAST PRESIDENT Mary M. Dusenbury given it over the years. We have Presidents' Awards are just the we owe her a debt of gratitude first in a series of programs that TEUFAX 620/254-7656 begun initiatives that will allow for maintaining the listserv and [email protected] us to: acknowledge outstanding will support the work and the developing it into a useful infor­ DIRECTORS AT-LARGE scholarship; offer financial aid to professional development of the mation source for its members. Ashley Callahan attend our Symposia, study tours organization's members. We also need to acknowl­ The Awards Committee TEL 706/542-0463 FAX 706/542-0440 and workshops; and provide edge and thank Karen Searle, [email protected] also oversees the RL Shep Book who for seven years has pro­ more professional development Mary Ann Fitzgerald opportunities. This is an exciting Award for outstanding publica­ duced the TSA Newsletter three TEL 608/262-1 162 time for TSA, and I am proud to tion of the year in the field of times a year, and has gone out of mafitzg [email protected] have been a part of it. ethnic textile studies. The 2005 her way to solicit articles. Karen Joanne Dolan Ingersoll While developing and Shep Award Committee was has also designed and produced TEL 212/217-5774 FAX 212/217-5978 [email protected] implementing TSA's long-range chaired by Beverly Gordon a number of mailings for us, and Margo MenSing goals has been rewarding, one and composed of Margot designs and produces the annual Schevill and Desi Koslin. They TEL 518/580-5063 FAX 518/587-8896 of the most gratifying aspects of Membership Directory, as well [email protected] reviewed all nominated books as soliciting its advertisements. serving on the Board has been Vita Plume the chance to become better and made the final selection We are deeply grateful for her TEL 919/513-4466 FAX 919/515-7330 acquainted with the other Board for the award to be presented talent, her generosity and the [email protected] members and the TSA member­ this year. The 2006 Award time she gives to the organiza­ Bobbie Sumberg ship at large. Without everyone's Committee is chaired by Desi tion. I would also like to thank TEL 5051476- 1223 FAX 5051476-1300 [email protected] help and support, the organiza­ Koslin, with Margot Schevill Rebecca Klassen for compiling tion would not be doing as well and Victoria Rivers. I wish to the Newsletter's Calendar, and TASK REPRESENTATIVES thank both committees for their Susan Ward for the extraor­ as it is. I would like to use the TSAWebsite rest of this letter to acknowledge service and for helping us to dinary skill and eye for detail Ashley Callahan, [email protected] acknowledge the important work and thank all of those who have she employs as the Newsletter's TSA Listserve made significant contributions on textiles being done by our Copy Editor. However, we Laura Strand, [email protected] to the organization over the last members. would not have a newsletter at TSA Newsletter Editor two years, often at their own all without the many contribu­ Karen Searle Publications tions from our members, and TEUFAX 651/642-9897 expense, and always on their ksear/[email protected] own time. Carol Bier joined the Board as I'd like to thank you all for your Vice President/President Elect TSA Symposium 2006 Co-Chairs submissions. Fran Dorsey Awards in 2004, and I can't tell you Also on the Publications TEL 902/868-2882 FAX 902/425-2420 [email protected] Of course, I must begin by how delighted we all were that Committee is Mary Mallia, acknowledging the 2004-2006 she agreed to take on the posi­ who serves as Librarian at the Nataley Nagy tion. She is an extraordinary Textile Museum in Washington TEL 416/599-5321 ext. 2236 Board. Mary Dusenbury FAX 416/599-2911 professional, and I know she DC and works with us to co- [email protected]

2 TSA NEWSLETTER publish the annual TSA/TM eserves the Society's gratitude In addition to overseeing the negotiating contracts. This year Bibliography. We are also grateful for her many years of service annual Membership Directory,.Lisa we switched management ser- to the Textile Museum for con- is Madelyn Shaw. Since has involved herself in the many vices from Boyer Management tinuing to support this collabora- 1998, when Madelyn served tasks related to her position, such to Righi Services. Thanks to Kim tive project. as co-Chair for the New York as answering member inquiries and Kaye's organizational skills, Internal Relations Director Symposium, she has worked and developing membership ser- this transfer was seamless. I am Lisa Kriner works closely with extremely hard for the organiza- vices. She is currently working on extremely indebted to them for Kim Righi in the TSA Office tion and deserves our deepest a new membership brochure. this, and especially to Kim,for to edit and proofread the TSA thanks. For the past four years, I can't thank both Lisa and staying on with us. We could not Membership Directory. I'd like to Madelyn has served as Recording Laura enough for their commit- run this organization without her. thank them both for efficiently Secretary and has gamely ment to the organization. It has overseeing this key publication. adapted to the peculiarities of been a great pleasure working Symposium Finally, I'd like to thank numerous computers in order with them both. Of course, I cannot write this to keep records of our meetings. Carol Bier for guiding our Programs without thanking Fran Dorsey publications along. We are also This year Madelyn also served and Nataley Nagy, as well as extremely grateful to her for as Chair of the Nominations The final committee that I must everyone at the Textile Museum taking on the production of the Committee and, with the help of acknowledge and thank is of Canada and Harbourfront 2004 Symposium Proceedings and Joanne Dolan Ingersoll, Vita the Program Committee, co- Centre, for handling all the for agreeing to see the Toronto Plume, Ruth Scheuing, and chaired by Margo Mensing and details of organizing the 2006 Symposium Proceedings through Gayle Strege, managed to pro- Bobbie Sumberg, who worked Symposium. As I well know, this to publication. Carol worked vide us with such a good slate of with Joanne Dolan Ingersoll is an extraordinarily time-con- extraordinarily hard with a team candidates. Board service involves to develop and oversee the suming task, and they have tack- of volunteers to make the 2004 a serious commitment of time Workshop and Study Tour pro- led it with grace and skill. If the Proceedings consistent and easily and money, and is not something grams. Joanne planned the New response to the Call for Papers searchable in CD-ROM format. taken on lightly. Madelyn and York tours of Matilda McQuaid's is any indication, the Toronto I'm sure the 2006 Proceedings her Committee members made exhibiton, "Extreme Textiles," and Symposium should be one of will be even better. countless phone calls and found the Museum at FITs exhibition the best ever. I would also like it challenging to convince people on contemporary Dutch design. to thank Kim Righi for stepping Finances to make this commitment. We More recently, she and Margo in and helping with many tasks Patricia Cox Crews, TSA's should all be extremely grateful have worked with Desi Koslin, related to the Symposium. Treasurer, also deserves a great to the Committee for their hard Sandra Sardjono, and Denyse deal of thanks for so ably man- work and to those who agreed to Montegut to organize the TSA Looking Ahead aging TSA's finances. However, put their names on the ballot. Textile Techniques Workshop that Serving on TSA's Board has Pat's most significant contribu- we hope to offer regularly. We been a real pleasure, and I & tion has been her oversight of Internal External expect it to become an impor- look forward to my last two the Finance Committee, com- Relations tant resource for anyone interest- years when I will serve as Past posed of Mary Dusenbury, Lisa Kriner, Internal Relations ed in developing their knowledge President. I thank everyone Ann Hedlund, Paul Marcus Director, and Laura Strand, of textiles. on the 2004-2006 Board and and myself. Over the past two External Relations Director, For the past two years would like to especially acknowl- years the committee has worked deserve our thanks and acknowl- Bobbie Sumberg has overseen edge those stepping down: Mary diligently to stabilize our invest- edgment. They both took on the development of our Sudy Dusenbury, Madelyn Shaw, ments and to put TSA in a new Board positions two years Tour program and organized a Laura Stand, Bobbie Sumberg, secure financial position. The ago, and have worked very hard basketry tour in the Southwest. Margo Mensing, and Ashley committee prepared a financial to define these important roles. Unfortunately, that tour did Callahan. You have the thanks policy and, with Paul's help, Laura is stepping down from not fill, but we hope to offer it of everyone in the organization. reinvested our funds to insure her position, but we will not let again in the future. She is now I welcome the newly-elected our financial stability and allow her go away completely, as she developing a tour of Japan with Board members, Pat Hickman, us to begin funding our many will continue to manage the TSA Yoshiko Wada that we will offer Vice President/President Elect; initiatives. However, we are far listserv and serve on the Board as in the Fall of 2007. I am very Roxanne Shaughnessy, from reaching our goals, and a Task Representative. Laura has grateful to Bobbie, Margo and Recording Secretary; Janice you may expect to hear from us also been putting together a list Joanne for continuing these Lessman-Moss, External from time to time as we begin of academic programs related to important efforts. Relations Director; and Fran actively to fundraise for specific textile studies that will be avail- I must also acknowledge Dorsey, Sumru Krody and initiatives to support the work able over the TSA website, and and thank Kim Righi and Kaye Matilda McQuaid, Board and professional development of will provide a significant resource. Boyer for their dedication to the Members at Large, and I look our members. With Mary Ann Fi{zgerald's organization, making sure that forward to meeting with them things run smoothly and prop- and seeing you all in Toronto. Nominations help, Laura has also updated our PR list--an extremely important erly. I am grateful for Kaye's help - Pam Parmal The final member of the task--and we are grateful to them and advice with many projects, TSA President Executive Committee who both. and in particular for her skill in

FALL 2006 3 introduce her unique methodol­ through the eyes of a sensitive ogy, a deductive approach that observer from a related field. encourages learning through A project of this magnitude empirical observation. Using textile narratives can not launch without moun­ checklists and fabric samples, she tains of unseen work, accom­ will guide participants through a + conversations plished by many volunteers (most pragmatic analysis that comple­ willing, and others just in the ments the study of structure wrong place at the wrong time>' and/or technique. The study from p. 1 Every success is due to those examples will provide a start for New Brunswick College of generous and capable individuals who have contributed when- 2006 Student/ the participants' personal swatch Craft and Design; and, from books. Newfoundland, work from the ever possible. The shortcomings New Professional This workshop is a new pro­ College of the North Atlantic; belong elsewhere, in the laps of Scholarship Recipients gram for TSA that can be offered and Memorial SWG University in the organizers. To all who have at future venues. Cornerbrook. worked on this huge project, we ,-HE AWARDS COMMITIEE For those traveling on to owe a huge debt of gratitude and 1 deliberated over the summer Montreal for the exhibition thanks. It has been enormously to select the first recipients of the TSA Founding "About Jacquard," a mini con­ interesting opportunity for all TSA Student/New Professional Presidents Awards ference will be held on Mon. of us, one we would not have Scholarships to attend the 2006 Oct. 16, followed by an opening missed. We hope you will find TSA Symposium. Five recipients THE FOUNDING PRESIDENTS' reception at the Montreal Centre the fruit equally so. were chosen from among 24 Awards were established by for Contemporary Textiles. - Fran Dorsey applications from six countries. the TSA Board of Directors as an Scholarships were awarded to initiative to recognize excellence Keynote Margaret Olughemisola Areo, in the field of textile studies. The The Keynote Speaker for the Nigeria; Judith Penney Burton, awards provide financial sup­ Symposium, ethnobotanist Wade Canada; Jeanine Henderson, port to one or more presenters Davis, is not at first glance an USA; Cristin R. McKnight, at The TSA biennial Symposium obvious choice for a textile USA; Emily Zilher, USA. whose proposals are judged to symposium. Dr. Davis has made Selected as alternate: Rachel be outstanding by the selection his reputation traveling, writing Harris, USA. committee. about and photographing some The Founding Presidents' of the more remote or enig­ Awards program will be New TSA Workshop: matic parts of the planet. In his Meg Andrews (UK) has announced during the 2006 Identifying Fabrics: book One River, he traces with updated her website for antique Symposium at a reception honor­ Technique and Timothy Plowman the earlier costumes & textiles. www.meg­ ing the five founding presidents Terminology travels of Richard Schultes in andrews.com. of TSA: Peggy Gilfoy (deceased), the Amazon rain forest. In one [email protected] pE FIRST WORKSHOP TO BE Milton Sonday, Lotus Stack, passage Davis noted the way Mattiehelle Gittinger, and presented at a TSA that the Ika and Kogi referred to John Barker continues to form Symposium deals with textile Louise W. Mackie. Outstanding their travels as , as they and place core collections of identification. In this pre-sym­ presenters at the 2008 wove a metaphoric sacred cloak Chin textiles to museums and posium course participants will Symposium will be the first recip­ over the mountains with their collector-donors, following his study fabric samples, paper ients of these awards. continuous walking. Everything published documentation efforts models, and projected macro A fundraising campaign for began and ended with the , in 2003. These textiles constitute photographs to increase their the new awards will be launched whether in planting and harvest­ the final major indigenous weav­ skills in recognizing and describ­ later this fall. TSA members will ing the fields (men and women ing tradition to emerge from SE ing fabrics. Useful for conserva­ receive more information in the moved in a crossing grid so Asia. Chin textiles are gaining tors and curators in cataloguing, mail. Members will also be able the garden became a fabriC> , in recognition for their rich diversity this deductive method will also to make a donation to this award building the to align with of styles, vibrant patterning and appeal to teachers and collectors program by visiting the TSA the of the sun across laborious, complex structures. who desire a straightforward, website. the floor from solstice to solstice, [email protected] pragmatic approach to analyzing or in the simple positioning of fabrics. the human body in space. The Susan Brandeis taught a work­ Sandra Sardjomo will lead Symposium seeks to enhance shop on "Digital Printing and the morning session focusing on conversations across disciplines, Embellishment on Fabric" for wovens, which will cover simple so it seemed appropriate to link the University of Minnesota's weave structures, patterning tech­ science, metaphor, and making Split Rock Arts Program in JUly. niques, and compound weave This was her 13th summer as an structures. In the afternoon ses­ Cover forCD _ROM catalog instructor in this program. sion Desiree Koslin will to About Jacquard exhibit at Montreal Centre for Textiles. [email protected] 4 TSA NEWSLETIER Sonja Clark received a Pollock­ Indian Life." The project takes a Krasner Grant in February group of 21 university design and Carol Westfall created a bib and a month-long Rockefeller textiles faculty and K-12 teachers series after discovering the 0 Foundation Residency in Bellagio, to India for one month in Jan. Jizoo Sarna tradition of Japan in this summer. She officially 2007 for intense study of Indian 1989. An exhibit of the bib set began her position as Professor textiles, marketing, and trade. An ("What Future I "-designated and Chair of the Craft/Material expected outcome is that upon as Westfall03) opened Sep. 7 at Studies Department at Virginia their return, the faculty members Mana Fine Arts, Jersey City, NJ. Commonwealth University in from across the US will develop Her other bib sets are displayed January, 2006. The department courses involving Indian culture on the website associated with offers BFA and MFA degrees and textiles on their campuses. the show, titled "What Have You and the areas of study are Fiber, [email protected] Got to Say 20067" WHYGTS Glass, Wood, Metal, and Clay. 2006. [email protected] Theresa Paschke has been [email protected] "Green Flash," wedge weave promoted to Associate Professor by Deborah Corsini. Member Publications Two wedge weave at Iowa State University. She by Deborah Corsini ("Green Annie Carlano and Bobbie Walter B. Denny, University is currently participating in the Flash" and "Swaddling") were Sumberg are co-authors of of Massachusetts at Amherst, is exhibition "By the Hand" at the recently purchased by the Sleeping Around: The Bed from preparing material for catalogues Bedford Gallery in the Dean US State Department for a Antiquity to Now published by the of two exhibitions of carpets Lesher Regional Center for the new US Embassy in Astana, University of Washington Press in from the Turkish and Islamic Arts in Walnut Creek, CA. Kazakhstan. A wedge weave May. The authors discuss the tex­ Arts Museum and the Carpet [email protected] tapestry, "Flashback", is included tiles and furniture of sleep across Museum of Pious Foundations, in "American Tapestry Biennial cultures from the ancient world to be held in April of 2007 in received a 6," which opened at the Urban to tomorrow. Arranged themati­ Istanbul in connection with the Distinguished Educator Award Institute of Contemporary Art in cally, the book is illustrated with II th International Conference for Textiles!Fibers from the James Grand Rapids, MI, and travels to over 140 images in color and on Oriental Carpets. He is Renwick Alliance of the Renwick Bellevue Arts Museum, Bellevue, black and white. also working on a forthcoming Gallery, National Museum WA, Oct. 6-Jan. 7, 2007; and to [email protected] show of the Ballard Collection of American Art during their the San Jose Museum of Quilts of Oriental carpets in the St. Craft Weekend in March. The & Textiles, San Jose, CA, Apr. Clair Odland's new monograph Louis Art Museum, tentatively awards are presented biannually 17- Jul. 8, 2007. Her work can was published last spring in scheduled for 2008. His article to honor educators who have also be seen in "By the Hand," Fieldiana, the new series by the on Islamic carpets and textiles in made significant contributions at the Bedford Gallery, Walnut Field Museum of Natural History, Venice will appear in the cata­ to American Crafts. The other Creek, CA through Sep. 10, and Department of Anthropology, logue published by Gallimard, awardees were in in 'Tapestry on the Edge," at Fashioning Tradition: Maya Huipiles Paris, in connection with the Ceramics and Lino Tagliapietra in the Nordic Heritage Museum, in the Field Museum Collections forthcoming exhibition, "Venice Glass. Cynthia served as juror for Seattle, WA, Nov. 29-Jan. 14, includes 67 pages, 66 color and and the Islamic World," open­ "New Fibers 06," sponsored by 2007. Deborah taught a wedge 4 black and white illustrations, ing in Paris this fall and moving the Fiber Arts Network. weave workshop in early August and an Appendix. to the Metropolitan Museum [email protected] at the Mendocino Art Center. [email protected] in 2007. The major focus of his www.mendocinoartcenter.org current research is on 15th- and Wendy Weiss and Jay Kreimer's [email protected] Karen Searle has an essay on 16th-century Persian carpets. new interactive artwork,"Ground [email protected] Shift," uses handwoven fabric, Nick Cave in Objects of Labor, Virginia Davis exhib- triggered animated figures and Critical Perspectives on Art, Cloth, ited "Constructed Canvasses! and Cultural Production, Joan Jane Hoffman's fall workshop, sound for an exhibition called Embedded Images" at the Livingstone and John Ploof, "Book Arts in Sheep's Clothing" "Space of Change," opening Sep. NOHO Gallery, New York, in eds., SAIC Press, www.artic.com. takes place Nov. 11-12 at Desert II at the District of Columbia December, 2005. There are two A personal essay is included in Weaving Workshop, Tucson, AZ. Art Center. This exhibition is part reviews: American Craft Magazine, www.desertweaving.com of a curatorial initiative funded Hooked: A Crocheters Stash of Wit April/May 06, and Surface Design [email protected] by the Andy Warhol Foundation. and Wisdom, Fall, 2006, Voyageur fouma~ Summer 2006. At the Claire Huschle and Margaret Press, voyagewpres.com. San Jose Museum of Quilts and [email protected] Mary Littrell and Molly Boozer curated the exhibition Textiles, her exhibit, "Art about Eckman, in the Department of with Anne Weber Surak. Learn Art," is on view from July 18- Design and Merchandising at about the curators, show, and When the Girls Come Out to Play: Oct. I, with a lecture on Sep. 7. The Birth of American Sportswear Colorado State University, have exhibiting artists, and see images www.sjquiltmuseum.org by Patricia Campbell Warner, received a Fulbright-Hays Group of the work at: www.margaret­ www.virginiadavis.us was recently released by Project Grant titled "Fabric of boozer.comlextras4.html [email protected] University of Massachusetts Press. to p. 6 FALL 2006 5 from p.5 members of the Khiva work­ Evolving Focus in Although the book focuses on shops and museum representa­ the history of women's entry tives come to New England. Textile & Apparel into sports and exercise, and the The Uzbek artisans will Design Program clothing devised for the activities, demonstrate textile-making tech­ UW-Madison the textiles used in the 19th and niques and display their remark­ early 20th centuries for these able products at the Paradise THE DEPARTMENT OF solutions playa significant role. City Arts Festival, Northamton, 1 Environment,Textiles and [email protected] MA (Oct. 7-8), and co-teach Design at the University of 2 -day workshops in suzanni Wisconsin-Madison announces Andean Textile Traditions: Papers , silk rug weaving, Florida Tech's "World changes in its Textile and Apparel from the 2001 Mayer center and natural dyeing at Snow Design undergraduate major. The Symposium at the Denver Art Farm, Williamsburgh, MA (Oct. Textiles" Come Alive in program will be more completely Museum, edited by Margaret 14-15l. They will also visit UMass Course, Exhibits integrated, and students will not Young-Sanchez and Fronia W. Dartmouth's /fibers see themselves as specializing Simpson. foreword by Lewis program in New Bedford, MA FLORIDA TECH WILL OFFER in either apparel or textiles. All Sharp. 192 pp., 139 color and (Oct. 3), and the RISD Museum, its first-ever textiles course, students will receive a wide-rang­ b&w iIlus. ISBN 10:0-914738-52- Providence, RI (Oct. 4). "History of World Textiles," in fall ing introduction to both areas, 6; ISBN 13: 978-0-914738-52-7. The Exchange was a project 2006. In addition, the university including basic textile and apparel Paper $22.95. Distributed by of the Institute for Training & will provide Central Asian textiles design skills, knowledge of textile University of Texas Press http:// Development., Amherst, MA, from its Ruth Funk Collection for science, textile and apparel history the exhibit "Embroidery and ," www.utexas.edu/upress/books/ and sponsored by the US State and their contemporary global Sep. 22- Nov. 5 at the Brevard denamp.html or available directly Dept.' s Bureau of Educational context, and knowledge about Museum of Arts and Science from the Denver Art Museum. & Cultural Affairs. Participants new developments in the textile

In Memoriam breezy as she pointed out details To honor her tremendous and dished the background on contributions to the Wadsworth TSA member Carol Dean the owners of the clothes. Atheneum, the museum has Krute, Curator of Costume Krute's recent work for the established the Carol Dean Krute and Textiles for the Wadsworth Atheneum can be seen in the Costume and Textiles Fund. Gifts Atheneum Museum of Art for current show, "Crewel World," to this fund will support the 15 years until her retirement Sep. 23-Feb. 25, 2007. costume and textiles activities last September, died on May 30 Krute came to the at the Atheneum.Those wishing at her home in Staten Island. Atheneum after working as to make donations to this Fund She was 65. a curatorial assistant at the may send checks payable to the ATHM News: Krute was a scholar, story­ Online Catalog Launched: Brooklyn Museum for 10 Wadsworth Atheneum, to: teller and detective, as she­ years. She studied at the In a move to use technology to Gina Federico brought collections to life in the Fashion Institute of Technology bring its collections online for ATTN: Carol Dean Krute Fund museum's costume gallery. in Manhattan and Cornell scholars and interested individu­ Wadsworth Atheneum She made it easy for report­ University, and received a als, the American Textile History Museum of Art ers to write about her shows, Master of Arts degree from the Museum has launched The Chace 600 Main Street providing a richly detailed text College of Staten Island. She Catalogue. The project is spon­ Hartford, CT 06103 to go with the often glamorous worked in the fashion business sored by The Chace Foundation - Susan Hood outfits. And she was funny and as a children's clothing designer. of Providence, RI. Approximately

FALL 2006 7 Persian textiles; Kashmir shawls; the Asian textile collection lay the David of northwest India relatively dormant. After Miss Woods and Pakistan; Chinese court Moody retired, few curators Kemper costume; Buddhist and Daoist took an interest in Asian textiles, Memorial costume and temple furnishings; although Mrs. Thayer herself had Foundation, and japanese cotton and bast been keenly interested in them. the fiber costume, furnishings and Until the textile project Freidenthal­ festival textiles. began, the Museum had never Snyder The forerunner of the added to the Asian textile col­ Foundation, Spencer Museum of Art was lection by purchase. As the Dave and Asian Textiles in the founded in 1925 when Sallie project progressed, however, the Gunda Spencer Museum of Art Casey Thayer, doyenne of Kansas Museum began to add deliber­ Hiebert, the City collectors and widow of ately to its holdings in this area. Kansas Arts University of Kansas a prominent Kansas City busi­ Initial purchases included a Ming Commission, and the National nessman, signed a Deed of dynasty imperial woman's rank Endowment for the Arts. N 1991, THE SPENCER MUSEUM Gift donating her collection of badge, a 17th-century Buddhist I - Mary M. Dusenbury of Art at the University of approximately 9,000 objects hesa, and a collection of japanese Guest Curator, "Flowers, Dragons Kansas began a IS-year project to the University of Kansas "to folk textiles. and Pine Trees: Asian Textiles to document, clean, conserve, encourage the study of fine arts The project concluded with in the Spencer Museum of photograph, research, and, finally, in the Middle West." I the publication of a catalogue Art' (Spencer Museum of Art, exhibit and publish its collection Mrs. Thayer had broad and raisonne of the Asian textile col­ University of Kansas, Spring of Asian textiles. The collection eclectic interests and she col­ lection in 2004, which served 2006). [email protected] comprises about 300 objects lected art objects in many media also as the catalogue for an including court, merchant, mili­ from Europe, the Americas, exhibition in Spring, 2006 of 95 1 Shankel, Carol. Sallie CasEY tary, theatrical, and folk costume; and Asia. These included of the 300+ Asian textiles and Thayer and Her Collection. Lawrence, temple and household furnish­ Coptic textiles, Venetian glass, costumes in the collection. 2 Kansas: The University of Kansas ings; and numerous discrete piec­ japanese prints, Korean pot- The Spencer Museum Museum of Art, 1976, pp. 9, 72, es of complex weaving, embroi­ tery, Impressionist paintings, received support from many 73. dery and dyeing. The textiles American samplers and quilts, individuals and foundations for 2 Dusenbury, Mary M. with range in date from the 15th to research, conservation, documen­ Native American artifacts, and an essay by Carol Bier. Rowers, the late 20th century. The larg­ European and Asian textiles. As a tation, exhibition and publication Dragons and Pine Trees: Asian Textiles est numbers come from China, condition of her gift, Mrs. Thayer of the Asian textile collection. in the Spencer Museum of Art. New followed by japan, the Indian insisted that the University pro­ Conservator Sharon Shore, York and Manchester: Hudson Hills subcontinent, Iran, , vide a building and a curator owner of Caring for Textiles Press, 2004. Central and West Asia, and for the collection. In 1926, Miss

FALL 2006 9 Suzuki, Manabu Hangai, appraisals of their work, and dedi­ Cultural Center, Staten Island, and Hirotaka Nakagawa. cation to helping them find their NY. All the artifacts on display Of these four, Reiko path as being instrumental in their have been culled from the Sudo is well known as a current careers. extensive private collection of designer and the director Hideho Tanaka is an artist of Professor Theresa Reilly (retired, of NUNO fabrics. She high repute. He was briefly a stu­ FITl. For more than 30 years is a consummate inno­ dent of mine at FIT in 1979. Later she has made a study of these vator, taking fabrics to I noted his work in the Lausanne three minority groups living in levels of creativity never Biennales of 1985 and 1987. Southwest China and neighbor­ ing countries, which culminated seen before. She shares There was always the attempt to in her 1988 book, Richly Woven with Minagawa a unique make the cloth do his bidding, no Traditions: costumes of the Miao of ability to conceptualize matter how extreme that bidding Southwest China and Beyond. This fabric. Whether creating was. Later came the wish to blend particular exhibit features the new fibers or bizarre nature with art. In his case, nature "Iznik Glass," by Makiko Minagawa, courtesy . . relevance of botany and horti­ was represented by fire that of Museum of Fine Art, Boston. methods of pnntmg culture in the dense and colorful or fabric construction, served to complete his ongoing from p. 9 embroidery on the costumes, as Sudo has few equals. To share theme of vanishing- a conceptual silk in , printed and well as in the decorative motifs her philosophy and talents, in vision of creation and art- some­ shrink-resisted. Another HaaT in their hats and jhewelry. 1988 she joined Tanaka as a times gone quickly, sometimes left - Nell Znamierwoski example, a curved black cape in part-time instructor at Musashino with charred edges. This was evi­ silk and polyurethane (spandex) University. dent at gallery gen in small sculp­ plain-weave doublecloth, has a The other three former stu­ tures of steel wire and his own horsehair fringe to add weight. dents pursue various approaches washi paper, which was set afire, Plain weave is a favorite, but not to fiber art, and in some cases and either disappeared completely exclusive weave. range are still developing their artistic or showed up with burnt edges from natural fibers to water­ identities. Junko Suzuki com­ as a symbol of survival. The steel soluble synthetics. Additional bined printing and weaving. changed color under the flame. techniques are used, often in Starting with silkscreened figures Using inkjet printing, Tanaka combination- stitching, shrink­ on large handwoven panels, she created a series of prints on ing, heat-setting, needle-punch, applied the hogushi technique. washi paper. Some were flat; oth­ puckering, machine-pleating, The word means twice-woven ers were thick and molded into kniming, and different types of Embroidery of the Greek Islands cloth, and involves removing ridges bearing charred marks. A dyeing. Minagawa was a well­ and Epirus Region: Harpies, weft threads and reinserting large, folding screen, inkjet print Mermaids, and Tulips. known dyer before joining the them in a different sequence to on cotton, was part of a series by Sumru Belger Krody Miyake company. Her skill was give a somewhat diffused effect. on emerging. Pillow-shaped rock The Textile Museum, 2006 highlighted in "Floating Bar," a Regeneration is the creative forms of thick washi pressed into transparent silk triple-cloth with goal of Manabu Hangai, and cotton were imprinted with free URING THE DECADE OF THE a pattern in clamp resist, a tech­ D his work involved nature and drawings created by nozzle inkjet 1920s George Hewitt nique reputed to date from the the waste discarded by society. printing. Myers, founder of the Textile eighth century. Museum, purchased a number His leaf forms (one of which These two exhibitions al­ The Textile and Fashion Arts of pieces embroidered in various was 19 ft. tall) were made of lowed us to see once again the Department of the MFA Boston parts of Greece. These works, acrylic, hemp, recycled seaweed Jappanese way of merging the old and its Curator, Pamela Parmal, supplemented by loan works paper, and other reused items. with the new in producing fabrics are to be commended for from some other museums, par­ Hirotaka Nakagawa had a col­ and arl of excellence and surprise mounting such a beautiful and ticularly the Victoria and Albert orful, large installation at the - not to mention beauty. inspirational exhibit. Museum, formed an exhibition 1989 International Biennal in New York exhibition: The - Nell Znamierowski at the Textile Museum of which Lauzanne. His current work is second exhibition at gallery gen this is the accompanying volume. still colorful, and took the form The wide variety of embroidery in did not have JOURNEYTO CHINA'S of a wall installation consisting of techniques, color choices, and the luxury of space that the MFA 20 pairs of bras and underpants. SOUTHWEST materials illustrate the remark­ Boston exhibit hadNevertheless These thick relief forms were FLOWERY COSTUMES FROM THE BAI, able textile heritage of Greece it showed to good advantage the made of cotton T-shirt jersey MIAO ANDYAO and reflect its history of the last work of a master teacher and layered together and pressed into SNUG HARBOR CULTURAL CENTER, 500 years. Harpies, mermaids, four of his former students. It hard shapes. JUNE 17-SEPT. 17,2006 and tulips allude to the Greek, featured current work by Hideho The students also wrote Venetian, and Ottoman influ­ Tanaka, professor at Musashino SMALL BUT SELECT EXHIBIT comments about studying with A of costumes and jewelry ences upon these embroidery Art University, Tokyo, and for­ Prof. Tanaka, citing his support, is on view at the Snug Harbor traditions. mer students Reiko Sudo, Junko

I 0 TSA NEWSLETIER Sumru Belger Krody has yet from crusaders to those connect­ Gene's adaptation for today's tion to this exhibition, two of the again produced a masterful work ed with the hospitals developed handweavers of the 1832 Xavier speakers dealt with floral topics which not only identifies textile by the Knights of Saint John. Gartner Weave Manuscript was in their lectures. Edward Maeder techniques found in Greece, but Chapter seven, "Ships and introduced and commented on (MA) spoke on embroidered flo­ goes much further to discuss the Flowers," introduces some enig­ by her editor, Ma~ie Thompson ral French Renaissance bed hang­ historical contexts and cultural matic works which defy place­ (MEl. Judith Rygiel (ON) spoke ings (ca. 1630). Three hundred values of these works. In addi­ ment within Greek embroidery on her ongoing research into varieties of flowers were stitched tion to the text with its numer­ traditions. They both alert us to handwoven Acadian dowry tex­ onto hangings which were com­ ous illustrations (often of both the fact that not everything is yet tiles, covering a time frame from missioned for the Provenc;al the top and bottom sides of the known about Greek embroidery, the era of Evangeline (18th C.) garden of Fabri de Peiresc. Peter cloth so one can better perceive and challenge us to investigate to the early 20th century. The Harris (ON) spoke on floral pat­ the embroidery technique under these unexplored areas further. early 19th century in Scottish terns of India, basing his talk on discussion), the book contains Sumru Belger Krody, I trust, will weaving was covered by Pat Hilts the flowers in one of the earliest end notes which amplify points be among the ranks of those pur­ (WI). Her talk concentrated on (17th-18th C.) surviving Kashmir made in the text, a stitch glos­ suing these challenges. This book the looms and patterns in the shawl fragments. Using a CAD sary, a technical and structural not only educates us, but also books of John Murphy and John system, he magnified the floral information section, a bibliogra­ piques our appetite for more. Duncan, the two main references motif for identification and to phy, and an index. - Donald Clay Johnson of an era that was swept away show how it could be transposed The seven chapters each by power and Jacquard looms. for design use. contain the following sections: Spinning wheels in New England The Weaving History function and form, method and 18 IO-present were the topic of Conference began in 1994 with motif, history and influence. The Florence Feldman-Wood (MA) . a small group of handweavers, function and form section intro­ She explored the innovations curators, collectors, and others duces both commonalities and made to increase the productivity with a comon interest in textiles variations among the textiles. For of the handspinner-especially in and tools of the past. The group instance, Krody notes a common the era when New England was has expanded, but it is still small architectural housing style in the heart of America's textile by conference standards. This rural areas. Homes basically were industry. results in a relaxed, friendly one large room, which necessitat­ Ever mindful that yesterday atmosphere for lively discussions ed some type of screening device is already history, conference and the sharing of information. WEAVING HISTORY-­ for beds. The vast bulk of the coordinator Sonja Wahl began There is also charming Clayton, objects illustrated are bedspreads, CONFERENCE including speakers at the 200S an undiscovered gem on the St. pillow covers, bed valances, HANDWEAVING MUSEUM & ARTS conference who would delve Lawrence Seaway- IS miles wide bed curtains, or bed tents. The CENTER, CLAYTON, NY into the more recent past, at this point. And as an extra visual impression or embroidery MAy 20-22, 2006 focusing on individuals who bonus attraction, there is the techniques they contain demon­ contributed significantly to house that Napoleon had built in strated the artistic abilities of the 'THE 12TH ANNUAL WEAVING keeping handweaving alive and nearby Cape Vincent. women of the household, or the 1 History Conference, held robust. This year's conference - Nell Znamierowski. wealth of the family. at the Antique Boat Museum included two such presenters. The method and motif sec­ in Clayton, NY, included nine Eva Burnham (QCl spoke on her tion typically is subdivided by speakers as well as a pre-confer­ mother-in-law, the late Dorothy JOIN THE TSA LtSTSERVE the various embroidery types ence trip to the Parks Canada Burnham, who devoted her life Listserve members receive used in that area of Greece. The Textile Conservation Lab in to research and preservation of current announcements, concluding history and influence Ottawa, ON, and an evening Canadian textiles. Her meticu­ information on current section delves particularly into social and marketplace where lous documentations resulted research, and may join lively the historical effects of Venetian participants displayed and sold in many publications, including discussions on textile topiCS. or Ottoman administration upon books, weavings, and stitchery. Keep me Warm One Night. Nell To subscribe, send an email A welcoming address given embroidery expressions of the Znamierowski's (NY) subject was message to bt HMAC Curator Wendy populace. But other influences Dorothy Liebes, concentrating on [email protected]. abound, since the island por­ Cooper opened the proceed­ the early years when Liebes had tions of Greece were on major ings. Five speakers centered a large handweaving studio, and .. Put nothing in the subject Mediterranean trade routes their presentations on historic including personal reminiscences . line. In the body of the mes­ that were the prime connection textiles, manuscripts, terminol­ of Liebes in the 1970s. sage write: subscribe tsalist between Asia and Europe,until ogy and tools. These included The conference preceded your email address. the Portuguese, Dutch, and Gene Valk (NY), who not only the opening of the Spring show English circumnavigated Africa spoke on terminology, but also at The Handweaving Museum Within the day you will receive a letter detailing and introduced other ways to get gave the audience a quiz so they and Arts Center, entitled "Full list policies, including how to spices and textiles. In addition to could judge their knowledge of Bloom: Floral Textiles from the unsubscribe, and you traders, these influences ranged old loom terms. In a later talk, Permanent Collection." In rela- will begin receiving email.

FALL 2006 II DELAWARE ------~ IOWA MTCHIGAN ·------· - Winterthur Museum. Sep. 30- Figge Museum, Davenport. Nov. Berkowitz Gallery, University of Jan. 7, 2007: " Fashion in Film: 18-Feb. 11 , 2007: "Accidentally Michigan-Dearborn. Sep. IS-Oct. Period Costumes for the Screen." On Purpose: Improvisation in 20: "New Fibers 2006." www.winterthur.org African Textiles and African­ American Quilts." Curated by Eli MINNESOTA DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA Leon. Color catalog. Textile Center of Minnesota, The Textile Museum. To Jan. www·figgeartmuseum.org Minneapolis. Oct. 21 : Artwear in 71007: "Classical Motion." www.textilecentermn.org Octagon Center for the Arts, Fragments." Oct. I3-Feb. 25,2007: Ames. To Oct. 8: "Community of "Mantles of Merit: Textiles from Minneapolis Institute of Arts. Artists 2006." TEL 515/ 232-5331. Mandalay to Chittagong." To Oct. 15: "Woven Splendor: www.octagonarts.org CALIFORNIA TEL 202/667-0441 Kente Cloths of West Africa" and de Young Museum, San www.textilemuseum.org "Utility to Ostentation: Textiles Francisco. To Dec. 31 : 'The Quilts MARYLAND in Our Life." To Jan. 28, 2007: of Gee's Bend." Nov. 18-Jan. 28, FLORIDA Baltimore Museum of Art. "Improbable Impressions: Jack 2007: "The Sculpture of Ruth To Feb. 4, 2007: "In Praise of Lenor Larsen's Psychedelic Prints." Brevard Museum of Arts and Asawa: Contours in the Air," a the Prince Fenyang: Decoding a To Jan. 28, 2007: "The Jack Lenor Science, Melbourne. Sep. 22-Nov. complete retrospective. Feb. 24- Chinese Embroidery" Larsen Design Studio." The first 5: "Embroidery and Ikat," Ruth Jun. 17,2007: "Vivienne Westood: www.artbma.org rotation of four focuses on the role Funk Collection of textiles. a Retrospective." of studio designer Winn Anderson. TEL 321 /674-6129 www.thinker.org/deyoung MASSACHUSETIS To Feb. II, 2007: "Iroquois Fuller Craft Museum, Brockton. Whimseys: The Art of Innovation." LA County Museum of Art, GEORGIA To Oct. 22: "The Elemental Stitch: Oct. 28-Apr. 8, 2007: "Maya Los Angeles. To Jan. 14, 2007: Atlanta History Center. Sep. Photo realism in Thread," the Dreams: Tradition and Evolution in "Breaking the Mode," radical 9-Apr. 22, 2007: "Designs of the embroidered work of Linda Behar. Guatemalan Textiles." changes in fashion since the Times: Twentieth-Century Georgia To Nov. 26: "Ain't Gonna Let www.artsmia.org 1980s. www.lacma.org Quilts." 70 examples drawn from Nobody Tum Me Roun': Quilters Goldstein Gallery, University the statewide survey of more than of Color Network of New York." of Minnesota, St. Paul. To Jan Museum of Crafts and Design, 9,000 quilts documented by the Oct. 14-Jan. 7, 2007: "Wearable . Nov. 9-Jan. 7, Georgia Quilt Project. Art Now and Then." 7,2007: American Fashion Transformed: Four Master 2007: "Kickin' It with Joyce J. www.AtlantaHistoryCenter.com\ www·fullercraftmuseum.org Scott," a 30-year retrospective. Designers. www.sfmcd.org ILLINOIS Historic Deerfield. To Dec. 31 : www.cdes.umn.edu Cultural Center. "Embroidered History-Stitched MISSOURI ----.----- San Jose Museum of Quilts. Nov. 4-Jan. 7, 2007: "Material Lives." Embroidered samplers and To Oct. I: "An Art About Art: Difference: Soft Sculpture and needlework from 1670 to 1830. St. Louis Art Museum. To Jan. Weavings from Virginia Davi;" Wall Works." Contemporary www.historic-deerfield.org 21 , 2007: "Recent Acquisitions "Insecurity: An Installation by Julie fiber art fom midwest collections, from the Textile Collection." John Upshaw;" and "Katherine sponsored by Friends of Fiber Art Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. www.slam.org Westerhout: After/ Image." International. Curated by Polly To Jan. 21, 2007: "Designing To Oct. 22: "Sonic Fabric by Ulrich. Catalog. the Modem Utopia: Soviet NEBRASKA--- .. ------Alyce Santoro." Aug. I-Nov. 5: TEL 708/946-2466. Textiles from the Lloyd Cotsen Great Plains Art Museum, "Dialectrics by Laura MacCary." Collection." Nov. 12-Mar. 18, University of Nebraska, Lincoln. Oct. 10-Jan. 7, 2007: "QUilt Douglas Dawson Gallery, 2007: "Fashion Show: Paris Oct. 6-Mar. 28, 2007: "Reading, National 2005." Chicago. Nov. 4-Dec. 22: "New Collections 2006." To Jul 6, Writing and a Rhythmic Stitch: www.sjquiltmuseum.org Shibori Textiles," new works by 2007: "Beyond Basketry: Japanese Doll Quilts from the Mary Frank Connett. Bamboo Art" and "Japanese Ghormley Collection." Bedford Gallery, Walnut Creek. www.douglasdawson.com Tsutsugaki Textiles from the Sep. 24-Nov. 12: "Embroidered Collection of David and Marita Robert Hillestad Gallery, Stories/ Knitted Tales." INDIANA Paly," starch paste resist-dyed folk University of Nebraska, Lincoln. bedfordgallery.com textiles. Indianapolis Museum of Art. Sep. 11-29: "Snail Trails, Broken www.mfa.org CONNECTICUT Oct. 8-Dec. 31 : "The Architecture of Gee's Bend Quilts," 70 quilts by Wadsworth Atheneum, Hartford. the women of Gee's Bend, AL. A Sep. 23-Feb. 25, 2007: "Crewel follow-up to "The Quilts of Gee's World," late 17th to the mid-18th­ Bend." organized by the Museum century crewel work, curated by of Fine Arts, Houston, and the Carol Dean Krute. Tinwood Alliance, Atlanta. To Feb. www.wadsworthatheneum.org 25, 2007: "I Do: The Marriage of Linda Behar, Fashion and Art." Western, African "Turban Squash," and Asian bridal garments. embroidery, TEL 317/923-1331 courtesy of Fuller www.ima-art.org Craft Museum.

12 TSA NEWSLETTER 9-Dec. 16: "Love and War: The Rhode Island School of Design and Design: The 20th Century." Power and Charm of Fashion," Museum, Providence. To Oct. WWW.rom.on.ca the dichotomy of underwear and 15: "Razzle Dazzle: The Language armor and their influences on of Ornament in Asian Costume Textile Museum of Canada, fashion. Nov. II-May 5, 2007: and Textiles." Oct. 13-Feb. II, Toronto. To Oct. 15: "Continuum: "She's Like a Rainbow: Colors in 2007: ''Turn Left at the Camel: A Figurative Art by a Thread," tex- Fashion," history, symbolism, sci­ Curator's Tale of Uzbekistan." tiles with figurative imagery from ence and psychology of color in the Lloyd Cotsen Textile Traces fashion. Collection. To Oct. 29: 'Wandering www.jitnyc.edu/museum The Charleston Museum. To Weavers: Nomadic Traditions of www3.jitnyc.edulmuseumltailorsart/ Sep. 30: "A Proper and Polite Asia," traditional textiles from Central Education: Girlhood Embroidery Asia and Afghanistan, Iran and Orley and Shabahang, New of the American South." To Feb. Turkey. To Jan. 7, 2007: "Fray." Work "Medallion, "1991, featured in York. "New Persian Carpet 18,2007: "Age of Glamour: in a range of media by 19 contempo­ "Accidentally On Purpose" at the Masterworks: 100 Years in the rary artists exploring the implications Figge Museum. Pieced by Willia Fashions of the 1920s and 1930s." Making." of memory embodied in design, Ette Graham, Quilted by Willia www.charlestonmuseum.org. www.shabahangcarpets.com materials and processes associated Ette Graham and Johnnie Wade. Collection of Eli Leon. TENNESSEE with textile traditions. Dec. 6-Apr. OHIO 2007: "Cloth That Grows on Trees," Dishes and a Streak of Lightning: Tennessee State Museum, Kent State University Museum. tapa bark cloth from the Pacific Evidence of Research at IQSC," Nashville. To Nov. 26: "Old Glory: To Oct. I: "Spirals and Ellipses: Islands, Africa and Indonesia. Jan. new work by Mary Anne Jordan An American Treasure Comes Clothing the Body Three­ 23-JuL 8, 2007: "Colour and Light: responds to selected African Home," 1820s flag. To Jan. 21, Dimensionally." To Jan. 7, 2007: Embroidery from India and Pakistan." American and Amish quilts. 2007: "Guitars, Fiddles and Coats "The Age of NUdity." Oct. 14- www.museumfortextiles.on.ca www.textilegallery.unl.edu of Many Colors" showcases the Jan. 7, 2007: "Hair: The Rise of museum's country music holdings, Montreal Centre for Individuality." Nov. 9-Jan. 7, 2007: NEW JER=S=EY ,-,-----·----- including over 40 costume items. Contemporary Textiles. Oct. "Fashion on the Ohio Frontier www.tnmuseum.org\ Washington I-Nov. 2: "About Jacquard" African Art Museum of the 1790-1840." To May 27,2007: features 25 artists who have pro­ SMA Fathers, Tenafly. To Jan. 7, "Oscar de la Renta: American WASHINGTON duced Jacquard pieces at MCCT. 2007: "African Mud Cloth: The Elegance." TEL 330/672-3450. Artists in Canda: Frances Dorsey, Bogolanfini Art Tradition of Gneli www.kent.edu/museum Bellevue Arts Museum. Oct. 6- Traore of Mali." Jan. 7, 2007: "American Tapestry Josee Hamelin, Julianna Joos, www.smafathers.org Biennial 6." Barbara Layne, Robin Muller, OREGON Louise Lemieux Berube and Ruth Contemporary Crafts Museum NEW Nordic Heritage Museum, Scheuing. US artists: , & Gallery, Portland. To Nov. Seattle. Nov. 29 -Jan. 14, 2007: Rudy Kovacs, Lisa Lee Peterson, Museum of International Folk 12: "New Embroidery: Not Your ''Tapestry on the Edge." Christine LoFaso, Vita Plume, Art, Santa Fe. To Oct. I: "Dream Grandma's Doily," the resurgence Cynthia Schira, and Bhakti Ziek. On: Beds from Asia to Europe." of embroidery in artists' reclama­ WSICONSIN England: Janis Jefferies, Kathy Dec. 16-Feb. 18, 2007: "Power tion of "women's work." Jan. Schicker, and Kelly Thompson. Dressing: Men's Fashion and Design Gallery, University of 13-Mar. II , 2007: "Engagement: JapanlTaiwan: Mitsuko Akutsu, Prestige in Africa," over 40 exam­ Wiscnsin-Madison. Sep 27-0ct. White Light," Zen Parry. Emiko Nakano, Wen-Ying Huang, ples of male attire from throughout 22" ''Transmutations: Valerie www.contemporarycra{ts.org and Chia-Hui Lu. Australia/New the continent and spanning the Walker and Mark Nelson." Oct. Zealand: Helena Stulgis, Liz 19th century to the present day. 27-Dec. 17: "New School Knitting: PENNSYLVANIA Williamson, and Christine Keller. www.internationalfolhart.org The Influence of Elizabeth Allentown Art Museum. Zimmermann and Schoolhouse CD-ROM catalog. Oct. 8-Jan. 7, 2007: "Wearing Press." www.textiles-mtl.com. NEW?ORK Propaganda: Textiles on the Home www.designgallery.wisc.edu Cooper-Hewitt National Design Front in Japan, Britain, and the Nickle Arts Museum, Calgary. Museum, New York. To Sep. 24: United States 1931-1945." International Sep. 27-Jan. 14: "Discover Ancient "Yinka Shibonare Selects: Works www.allentownartmuseum.org Peru Unearthed: Golden Treasures from the Permanent Collection." of a Lost Civilization." CANADA Dec. 8-Aug. 26, 2007: "National Hurford Humanities Center, www.ucalgary.cal- nickleEngland Design Triennial 2006." Haverford College. Feb. 16-Mar. , Toronto. TEL 212/849-8400. 25,2007: "Collecting Context: An To Sep. 17: "Icons of Elegance: ENGLAND Influential Shoe Designers of the www.cooperhewitt.org Exhibition of Chin Textiles with Linda Wrigglesworth Gallery, 20th Century." To Mar. 11,2007: a Story." Curated by David Fraser London. Nov. 2-10: "Clouds." The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 'Watched by Heaven, Tied to Earth: and Maris Gillette. TEL 610-896- cloud symbol in costumes and New York. To Sep. 24: "The Fabric Summoning Animal Protection for 1336. ecronin@haver{ord.edu\ textiles of the Chinese Qing period of Life: Ikat Textiles of Indonesia." Chinese Children." To Jun. 2007: (1644-191 I). 'The Charm of Rococo: Femininity Dec. 12-Mar. 4, 2007: "Nan RHODE ISLAND www.lindawrigglesworth.com Kemper: American Chic." and Footwear in the 18th Century." University of Rhode Island www.metmuseum.org www.batashoemuseum.ca Textile Gallery, Kingston. To Oct. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Oct. 5-Jan. 7, 2007: "At Museum at FIT, New York. To 4: "Purple: Celebrating 150 Years , Toronto. Nov. 4: "The Tailor's Art." Sep. of Synthetic Dyes." Oct. 28-Jan. 7, 2007: "Italian Arts to p. 14

FALL 2006 13 from p. 13 Nov. 18: Figge Museum, Textile Museum of Canada, 21: Preventative Conservation of Textiles and Historic Objects; Home in Renaissance Italy." To Davenport, IA. "Models in the Toronto. Sep. 13: "Finding Felt in Collections Care, Handling, and Feb. 25, 2007: "Sixties Fashion." Mind: African Prototypes in Mongolia: An Adventure on the Storage Techniques. Oct. 7, 14: www.vam.ac. uk. American Patchwork," Eli Leon, Steppes of Inner Asia,"by Michael collector of Aftican textiles and Gervers. Sep. 27: "Wear and Mount Preparation and Object The Bowes Museum, Durham. African-American Quilts and cura­ Tear: Panel Discussion" with artists Support; Custom Designed Display Techniques for Exhibiting To Apr. 29, 2007: "Fine & tor of "Accidentally on Purpose." Susan Schelle, Millie Chen and Fashionable: Lace from the www·figgeartmuseum.org Jeannie Thib on aspects of cloth's Costume, Textiles, and Historic Blackborne CoJlection." fragility and the human inclina­ Object Ephemera. Limited enroll­ www.thebowesmuseum.org. Dec. 5: Winterthur Museum, tion to rebuild and restore as seen ment. For further information: Wilmington, Delaware. in the exhibition "Fray." Oct. 12: Elise Yvonne Rousseau, SWITZERLAND "Foundations of Fashion: The Material Witness Lecture Series, Independent Curator/Conservator History of Underwear in Film and TSA Symposium Keynote Lecture TEL 415/447-8402 Musee d'Ethnographie de in Fact" by Kristina Haugland, by Wade Davis. [email protected] Geneve. To Dec. 31 : "La Fibre des Associate Curator, Costume and www.textilemuseum.ca ArtConservationDeRigueur.com Anciens tesores textiles d'Indonesie Textiles, Philadelphia Museum de la collection Georges Breguet," of Art. Royal Ontario Museum, Indonesian textiles. Tours www.winterthur.org Toronto. Oct. 5: Veronica Cervers www.ville-ge.chlmeg Memorial Lecture: "The Whole Dec. 20-Jan. 5, 2007: Mali: A De Young Museum, San Nine Yards: Early Quilts and Textile Museum Study Tour, Francisco. Textile Arts Council Quilted clothing in the 18th Led by Dr. Victoria Rovine of the Lectures: Sep. 16: "The Voice University of Florida. Participants www·fiberscene.comSep.15-Dec. Century" by Linda Baumgarten, and Style of African American will view the indigo dye process I : "Fiber: In and Out," Korean Curator, Textiles & Costumes, Quilters" by Marion Coleman. and the traditional weaving tech­ fiber art, including work from the Colonial Williamsburg. Oct. to, 17 Sep. 23: "An Intimate Perspective niques involved in making mud­ outdoor installation "Open Space." and 24: "Scissors, Silk and Steel: of Gee's Bend Quilts." Quilters cloth. Artisans from Timbuktu and Dec. I-Mar. 1,2007: "Faux Fiber," Shaping Centuries of Style" three­ from Gee's Bend, AL tell the sto­ Djenne will demonstrate complex works in materials such as steel, part lecture series with Edward ries and sing the songs behind the hand embroidery. Tour includes wood and glass imitating cloth, Maeder, Dr. Alison McQueen, and quilts. Moderated by curator Alvia an excursion to the annual mas­ stitching or quilting. Bradley Quinn. Pre-registration Wardlaw. Sep. 24: Gospel concert required [email protected]). Nov. 30: querade performed in the village by the women of Gee's Bend and of Segou. Information: www.statemuseum.arizona.edul "WAR fashion," the impact of war the Glide Memorial Ensemble TEL 8661740-5130 exhibitslnavajoweave "Navajo on fashion during the early 20th with film screenings, "The Quilts Weaving at Arizona State Museum: century. of Gee's Bend" and "Quiltmakers Nov. 29-Dec. 12: Textile 19th Century Blankets, 20th WWW.rom.on.ca of Gee's Bend." Oct. 14: "Animal Odyssey Tour To Laos and Century Views." The 2004-2005 Myth and Magic: Images from Pre­ Northern Vietnam led by Mary exhibition online, co-sponsored Workshops Columbian Textiles" by Vanessa Connors. Visit remote areas of by the Gloria F. Ross Center for Drake Moraga. Nov. 19: "Clothes Laos and Vietnam, where as many Tapestry Studies. Sep. 20-Nov. I: Textile Museum for the Table: The Creation, Care of Canada. "The Nomadic Life as 54 ethnic groups remain rela­ and Mystique of Table Linen" with Natalia Nekrassova." An illus­ tively isolated from the modern by Edward Maeder, Director trated course on the textiles and world and continue to practice ancient traditions and wear their Sep. 17: Minneapolis Institute of Exhibitions and Curator of nomadic culture of Asia by the Textiles, Historic Deerfield, MA. distinctive costume. We will visit of Arts. "Reclaiming the Past: curator of "Wandering Weavers," www.thinker.orgldeyoung some of these diverse people Tapestry Conservation at the with examples from the Museum's in their villages and towns and Metropolitan Museum of Art." collection. Advance registration. San Jose Museum of Quilts and observe firsthand some of their Tina Kane. TEL 416/599-5321, ext. 2221. Textiles. Sep. 21: "A Presentation cultural and textile traditions. www.artsmia.org and Conversation with Katherine Sep. 30-0ct. I: Charleston Serena Lee Harrigan Sep. 22: Pacific Northwest Westerhout." Nov. 12: "Fast Museum, Charleston, Sc. "New textile_odyssey [email protected] College of Art, Portland. "New Forward: State of the Art Quilt" Fancy Pattern Embroidery," an TEL 415/666-3636 Embroidery: Not Your Grandma's with Bay Area "Quilt National" adaptation of the "New Fancy Mar. 9-18 2007: The Language Doily," panel with artists and cura­ artists Judith Content and Jean Pattern" printed in the Nov. 1782 of Maya Textiles: The Weaving tors from the exhibition at the Caciceido, and show juror Miriam issue of The Hibernian Magazine, Villages of Highland Chiapas. Contemporary Crafts Museum Nathan-Roberts. TEL 408/ 971- Or Compendium of Entertaining Highland Maya weavings of and Gallery. 0323, ext. 14. Knowledge. Held in conjunction www.contemporarycrafts.org www.sjquiltmuseum.org with the exhibition "A Proper Chiapas teJl a story. Learn of the and Polite Education: Girlhood historical derivation of the symbols Oct. II: of The Textile Museum, Embroidery of the American and how they have evolved over Ceramic Art, Toronto. 'The Washington, DC. Oct. 28: South," and followed by a tour time to provide cultural identity Pottery and Textiles of Nasca, Peru: "Imperial Ottoman Tents" by of the exhibit and the museum's for Maya women today. This study Interwoven Themes of Blood, Norhan Atasoy. Dec. 13: "Un­ textile storage. trip will be led by an expert in Fertility, and Transfor- mation," common Threads: Ohio's Art www.charlestonmuseum.orglevent Maya textile iconography. Contact: Mary Frame. Exhibition themes Quilt Revolution." Lecture, book­ Stephanie Schneiderman revealed through 2,000-year-old signing with Gayle A. Pritchard. San Francisco, CA: Art Conser­ [email protected] Peruvian textiles and ceramic art. TEL 202/667-0441, ext. 64 vation de Rigueur workshops for http://www.tiastephanietour.s.comides­ www.gardinermuseum.com non-conservators. Sep. 23, Oct. tinations/Chiapasl 14 TSA NEWSLETTER Amy Miller, Lourdes Font, Anna Buruma, Heather Hess, and Isabella Fabretti. For more information, see the website below or contact Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell [email protected] http://www.huntington.org

Nov. 17-18: Renaissance Home: Art and Life in the Italian House 1400-1600. Victoria and Sep. 29: Facing Impermanence. Nov. 3: Metropolitan Museum of Oct. 6-8: The fifth biennial Albert Museum, London. Held in The 6th biennial North Art Fellowships, 2007-2008 Textile History Forum at conjunction with the exhibition American Textile Conservation Winterthur Museum, DE. Includes "At Home in Renaissance Italy," Applications are being accepted Conference (NATCc) will focus juried papers, works in progress, the conference marks the culmi­ for Fellowships in conservation, on theory and practice of preven­ art history, and curatorship at the behind-the-scenes tours, small nation of research on the Italian tive conservation. Conservators, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New group workshops, banquet, and Renaissance domestic interior, its curators, conservation scientists, York. Application information is auction of antique textiles and tex­ character, contents and the pro­ project managers and other available on short-term and long­ tile-related items. cesses of everyday life, concentrat­ museum specialists are invited term fellowships from: www.textilehistoryforum.com or ing on the urban house as a key to submit proposals for presenta­ www.thistlehillweavers.com. context for the development of Marcie Karp tions. Selected papers will be Fellowship Program art and culture. Themes include: published in CD-ROM format Metropolitan Museum of Art Oct. 20-22: THE 28TH ANNUAL Designing the Home: Production and distributed at the conference 1000 Fifth Avenue TEXTILE MUSEUM FALL and Consumption; Domestic along with printed abstracts in SYMPOSIUM, "New Directions Practices: Exploring the Everyday; New York, NY 10028-0198 English, Spanish and French. Send in Persian Carpet Studies." The Urban House in Context: the www.metmuseum.org abstracts to Suzanne Thomassen­ Drawing inspiration from the exhi­ Human and Material Environment. Krauss via email to [email protected] or bition "Pieces of a Puzzle: Classical www.vam.ac. uklactiv_events/courses/ as a hard copy to her at: Persian Carpet Fragments," the conferences/index.html 10701 Hunters Run Ct., conference will focus on the histo­ Vienna VA 22181-2837 USA. ry and current state of Persian car­ Dec. 3: Soviet Textiles, Museum For details and information about pet studies. Reservations required. of Fine Arts Boston. A symposium NATCC, please visit TEL 202/ 667-0441, ext. 64. www. on textiles and the early Soviet cul­ www.textilemuseum.org/natcdmain. textilemuseum.org/symposium.htm tural context will feature speakers htm Jacqueline Atkins of the Allentown Nov. 10-11: Dress and the Museum of Art, on textiles and Dec. I: Traditions and Decorative Arts. The Huntington propaganda; Robert Edelman of Trajectories: Education and the Library, Art Collections, and the University of California, San Quiltmaker. Scholars and artists Botanical Gardens, San Marino, Diego, on sports in Soviet cul- are invited to submit proposals CA. This interdisciplinary confer­ ture; Pamela Kachurin of Harvard for the 2007 Symposium at the ence, jointly sponsored by The University and curator of the exhi­ Intemational Quilt Study Center. Huntington and the Costume bition, on Soviet textiles in the con­ The Symposium explores the full Society of America, examines text of Soviet visual culture; Terry breadth of contexts, formal and the aesthetic interplay of dress Martin, of Harvard University, on TSA NEWSLETTER informal, in which the quiltmak­ and decorative arts, focusing on utopianism in the late 1920s and er's art is leamed, studied, applied shared styles, techniques, and 1930s; and Vida Johnson of Tufts DEADLINES and handed on to others. Contact: materials. Scholars and curators University, who will introduce a March 30 Kathy Moore will address questions of influ­ Soviet film to be screened in the Symposium Coordinator ence, interpretation, and display. afternoon. For further information July 30 International Quilt Study Center Speakers include Harold Koda, please contact Alex Huff November 30 University of Nebraska-Lincoln Linda Baumgarten, Mary Schoeser, [email protected] P.O. Box 830838 Michele Majer, Dilys Blum, TEL 617/369-3976 Please send news, reviews, Lincoln, NE 68583-0838 Sharon Takeda, Edward Maeder, listings, and articles to: [email protected] Karen Searle, Editor TEL 402/472-7232 FAX 402/472-0640 TSA Office For membership updates 1742 Portland Ave. inquiries, or for TSA Tour St. Paul, MN 55104 Kim Righi, information or to renew your TEL/FAX 651/642-9897 Membership Manager membership by email: [email protected] PO Box 70 [email protected] Earleville, MD 21919-0070 Please send calendar listings to Visit the TSA website, TEL 410/275-2329 Rebecca Klassen, http;//www.textilesociety.org FAX 410/275-8936 [email protected] for membership forms, tour EMAil [email protected] information and latest news.

FALL 2006 15 Ruth Scheuing: "Flowers and Leaves #20: SunFlower," 62 x 40"; computer-assisted hand-woven jacquard fabric, cotton; featured in the exhibition "About jacquard," Oct. I-Nov. 2 at the Montreal Centre for Contemporary Textiles. A Mini-Conference on jacquard weaving will be held at MCCT on Oct. 16, following the 10th Biennial TSA Symposium, Oct. 11-14 in Toronto.

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DATED MATERIAL

Photographic details courtesy of Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology, Brown University Estate of Lillian Elliott RIsDMuseum