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Fall 2005 Textile Society of America Newsletter — Fall 2005 Textile Society of America

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Textile Society of America, "Textile Society of America Newsletter — Fall 2005" (2005). Textile Society of America Newsletters. 78. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews/78

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. VOLUME 17 • NUMBER 3 . FALL, 2005

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Collections Management and Preservation Project for the

CONTENTS Kala Raksha Trust, Kutch, India

Collections Management Project, Kala Raksha Trust By Maryann Sadagopan 2 TSA Symposium 2006 SA HAS BEEN AN important The Kala Raksha Trust records kept. However, textiles 3 President's Letter channel for my profes­

Far Left: A pool with a view of Lake Ontario at the Radisson Admiral Hotel in Toronto's Harbourfront Centre, headqua.... ters for the 2006 TSA Symposium. Left:A glimpse of Harbourfront life. Photos courtesy of Toronto Tourism.

2 TSA NEWSLETTER for next year offers a unique last several years the success of TSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS opportunity, and I envy those our symposia has permitted us OFFICERS who will be able to attend. The to offer modest financial aid to President workshop program will also presenters, particularly those trav­ Pamela Parmal eling from overseas. TEL 617/369-3703 FAX 617/262-6549 receive greater attention. The [email protected] aim of the workshop program is I am happy to announce to create opportunities for mem­ that for the 2006 Symposium VICE-PRESIDENT in Toronto, we will continue to Carol Bier bers to meet in smaller groups, TEL 2021667-0441 ext. 19 to focus one day or several on offer financial support to speak­ [email protected] acquiring a new skill or learning ers. Please see the Call for Papers THE LONG-RANGE PLAN adopted for instructions on how to apply TREASURER 1 by the board of the Textile about a new area of interest, and Patricia Cox Crews for this aid. I am also very happy Society of America, is intended to spread out our programs geo­ TEL 4021472-6342 to announce that the Board [email protected] to guide us through the next five graphically so that we can reach approved scholarships to cover years. The achievement of our more members. RECORDING SECRETARY the symposium registration costs goals will strengthen our financial Joanne Dolan, a Board Madelyn Shaw for five students/new profession­ TEL 40 I/454-65 15 footing, enhance our existing member and member of the als to attend the Toronto meeting. [email protected] programs, and create new ways Program Committee, has orga­ It is our sincere hope that DIRECTOR OF INTERNAL RELATIONS to serve the organization's mem­ nized a September 8 event in we will be able to continue to Lisa Kriner bership and those interested in New York that will allow those TEL 859/985-3547 FAX 859/985-3541 attending to view two major increase the amount of financial [email protected] textiles. exhibitions and spend time with support we can offer our mem­ DIRECTOR OF EXTERNAL RELATIONS Professional Development the curators and artists respon­ bers to enable them to attend Laura Strand One goal of the plan that I am our symposia, workshops and TEL 618/692-4170 FAX 618/650-3096 sible for, and represented in [email protected] most interested in achieving is these shows. This program is study tour programs. I have to create more opportunities for considered the Attingham Study PAST PRESIDENT an example of a one-day session professional development within Tour, an annual three-week study Mary M. Dusenbury organized around two exhibi­ TEUFAX 620/254-7656 TSA. While most universities, tions, that can provide a model course on the British country [email protected] colleges, and museums have for those of you involved in house, as a model. More than long supported professional half those attending Attingham DIRECTORS AT-LARGE exhibitions you would like to Ashley Callahan development, this support is share with the membership. We are on full scholarships, which TEL 706/542-0463 FAX 706/542-0440 disappearing. This is especially are also interested in sponsoring previous attendees and other [email protected] true of many museums, where hands-on workshops exploring supporters of the program have Mary Ann Fitzgerald decreasing budgets and chang­ generously established over the TEL 608/262-1 162 textile techniques and profes­ mafitzg [email protected] ing priorities have diminished sional practices. I encourage years. I would love to see, over or even stopped these efforts. time, a continued growth in Joanne Dolan'lngersoll anyone interested in developing TEL 2121217-5774 FAX 2121217-5978 This change in priorities among a workshop to contact Margo the financial support that TSA [email protected] institutions will have serious Mensing, co-chair of the can offer those attending our Margo Mensing implications for training the Program Committee. programs, as well as scholarships TEL 518/580-5063 FAX 518/587-8896 museum curators and conserva­ established through the generos­ [email protected] tors and university professors of Financial Support ity of our members and support­ Vita Plume the future. For those working in While the programs themselves ing organizations. TEL 919/513-4466 FAX 919/515-7330 are an important aspect of [email protected] larger institutions, this is a more Symposium Call recent change. But for all of us, what TSA can offer, they can­ Bobbie Sum berg Before I close, just a reminder there has always been a need for not be done without cost, and TEL 505/476-1223 FAX 505/476-1300 that the submission deadline [email protected] more support. that makes them unavailable for abstracts for the 2006 In the next five years we to many. The Board is aware Symposium is December 1. TASK REPRESENTATIVES hope to continue to develop of this, and a major goal of the Nataley Nagy and Fran Dorsey TSA Website our programming efforts to long-range plan is to strengthen Ashley Callahan, [email protected] are working hard to ensure the help meet these needs. We our financial position so that we TSA Listserve Toronto meeting's success. That will continue to emphasize the can begin to offer scholarship Laura Strand, [email protected] success, however, will really be Biennial Symposium. However, and travel support. TSA Newsletter Editor measured by the quality of the we will also develop our study Due to the success of our Karen Searle papers you present. I know there TEUFAX 651/642-9897 tour program, paying particular symposia and previous study is a lot of good work being done. [email protected] attention to ensuring that these tours, our finances are strong. Please consider planning a panel TSA Symposium 2006 Co-Chairs trips provide unique opportuni­ We were able to offer a scholar­ Fran Dorsey or submitting a paper to share ties to study the textiles of the ship to Heather Brooks-Shirey, TEL 9021868-2882 FAX 9021425-2420 your efforts with us. [email protected] world and meet the artists and Assistant Professor at St. Olaf College, to attend the study tour - Pam Parmal Nataley Nagy craftsmen who create them. The TSA President TEL 416/599-5321 ext. 2236 Southwest Basketry tour planned to Ghana last year. Over the FAX 416/599-291 I [email protected] FALL 2005 3 Nancy Arthur Hoskins, The discuss, and try our hands at Coptic Tapestry Albums. University creating a basket. Study of of Washington Press. historic baskets in museum Chapurukha M Kusimba, et at. collections is also included, with Unwrapping the Textile Traditions a visit to storage in the Arizona of Madagascar. UCLA Fowler State Museum. Other highlights Museum. include stops at the Petrefied Forest, the Painted Desert, Fort Else Ostergard, Woven Into Apache and its museum, several the Earth: Textiles from Norse archaeological sites, and a Navajo Greenland. Denmark: Aarhus Shep Book Award for Ghana Trip Photos Are reservation. University Press. 2004 Announced on the Web Larry has taken many Shelagh Vainker, Chinese Silk: members of the Arizona State OMMITTEE MEMBERS Desiree A Cultural History. Rutgers IN JANUARY 2005, a group of Museum on trips in the area and C Koslin, Margot Blum University Press. intrepid TSA travelers knows the region intimately. Due Schevill and chair Beverly Elayne Zorn, Weaving a Future: wandered through Ghana with to the distances in the region, Gordon announce the 2004 R. Tourism, Cloth and Culture on an Lisa Aronson in search of woven there will be a lot of driving time L. Shep Award for the best book Andean Island. University of Iowa treasures and memorable between remote reservations in on ethnic textiles published in Press. experiences. You can now New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. 2004. The winner is Weaving -Beverly Gordon experience the trip/join in the Generations Together: Evolving R.L. Shep Award Committee fun by viewing Alida Latham's Cost: $1850 (TSA members) photos posted at: $1950 (non-members) Creativity in the Maya of Chiapas Chair by Patricia Marks Greenfield, http://imageevent.comlalidalghana Single supplement available published by the School of American Research Press in Please check the TSA website, Santa Fe, NM. TSA Workshop: Textile Origins Revisited: http://textilesoaety.org for registra­ The 2004 Shep Award Exploring Indian Basketry of the tion forms and full details. Nominees were: Contemporary Textiles Southwest Vandana Bhandari, Costume, September 8, 2005 Textiles and Jewellery of India­ April 16-24, 2006 Tradition in Rajasthan. Prakash SA'S FALL WORKSHOP, held Led by Larry Dalyrimp/e Books. Tas this newsletter went to OIN THE TEXTILE SOCIETY of Fredrick Bunce, Buddhist Textiles press, took the form of a New JAmerica on a unique tour of the of Laos, Lan Na and the Isan: The York Study Day with a morning American Southwest, as far away session at the Cooper Hewitt Iconography of Design Elements. from home, physically and National and DK Printworld, Ltd. culturally, as most of us can get an afternoon at the Fashion Patricia Cheesman, Lao-Tai and still be in the United States! Institute of Technology. Matilda Textiles: The Textiles of Xam Nuea Tour leader Larry Dalrymple, McQuaid, Head of Textiles and Muang Phuan. Studio Naenna author of a two-volume book on and Exhibitions Curator of the Co. contemporary Native basketrnak­ Exhibition "Extreme Textiles: ers, has spent years visiting Joseph Fischer, Story Cloths of Bali. Designing for High Performance," reservations and getting to know Ten Speed Press. provided a curator's journey artists in the course of his Patricia Greenfield, Weaving through the exhibition. After research. An educator and Generations Together: Evolving lunch, Hil Driessen, a designer collector, Larry is uniquely able Creativity in the Maya of Chiapas. from The Netherlands and exhib­ to bring participants into the School for American Research iting artist in the Museum at FIT homes of the finest basket exhibition, "Dutch at the Edge Rachel Hasson, lkat: Kaleidoscope weavers in the Southwest. There San Carlos Apache weaver of Design: Fashion and Textiles Evalena Henry (in 1995), one of of Colors: Silk Fabrics from we will be able to observe, the basket weavers we will meet Central Asia, in Hebrew and from The Netherlands," led the group through her total environ­ on the Spring, 2006 Study Tour. English, catalogue for the L.A. She is the 200 I recipient of a Mayer Museum of Islamic Art, ment installation, discussing the National Endowment for the Jerusalem. process, the manufacturers, and Humanities award the technology critical to its real­ Ann Lane Hedlund, Navajo ization. Weaving in the Late Twentieth Century: Kin, Commumity and Colleaors. The University of Arizona Press.

4 TSA NEWSLETTER Report: TSA Textile Some of us arrived in walked and experienced Istanbul a day before the start of each place, it was clear Study Tour to Turkey the tour, on the Turkish national that he was reliving his May 30 - June 12, 2005 holiday celebrating the 552nd memories while we were anniversary of the defeat of the making ours. These walks r !NAKKALE, TROY, the Greeks by the Turks. Folkloric inevitably led to the ¥ardanelles, Topkapi Sarayi, performances were staged near markets with their own Ayasofya ... these melodic names our hotel at the site of the Roman special allure offering evoke the antique civilizations of Hippodrome in the main area of contemporary and Rome and Byzantium, the the Sultanahmet district. Accord­ ethnographic objects and Ottoman Empire, and Homeric ing to Walter Denny, there was artifacts: Kapah C;:ar~t (the legend. This was the backdrop for much to celebrate, for if the Covered Bazaar> with its TSA's Textile Study Tour of Turks had not been victorious, section of booksellers, the Turkey, reminding us of the "We wouldn't have the rugs!" Sahaflar C;:ar~t , the Arasta ancient roots of the great literary, Rugs and carpets were the Market, and the Spice religious, and material culture main focus for our investigations. Bazaar by the Golden traditions that we met at each We saw museum collections from Hom. tum in Istanbul, Bursa, or Iznik. the Turkish and Islamic Museum, In addition to the Nineteen scholars, academ­ the Vaktflar Carpet Museum, antique textile collections, ics, curators, weavers, collectors costume and embroidery exhibits we visited the DOBAG and textile enthusiasts accompa­ at the Topkapt Palace, and the project, a Turkish women's nied art historian Dr. Walter Sadberk Hamm Museum, which cooperative in Anatolia, estab­ Women rinsing indigo-dyed Denny. The trip was well-organ­ we visited after a cruise on the lished by the chemist Harald wool from the DOBAG ized and overseen by Tosun Bosporus. A special treat was Bohmer and Josephine Powell in revitalization of traditional Bengisu and his wife, Shayeste. seeing the newly-opened folk order to revive the traditional weaving project in Sultan bey Bobbie Sumberg from the costume museum in Bursa, village arts of weaving carpets Kay, western Anatolia. Museum of International Folk Art founded by i;.sat Uluumay. with authentic designs crafted represented TSA. Bobbie adeptly Exhibits were created from from natural dyes and materials. arranged extra activities for us, Uluumay's extensive collection Later we went to another revital­ e.g., a visit to the atelier of Musa of dance costumes and accesso­ ization project at the Iznik Foun­ Our textile interests were Kazim Basaran, contemporary ries, dating from when he toured dation in Iznik (Nicaea), the 4th­ often complemented by visits to designer and weaver, a lecture on internationally with his folk dance century site where the Nicene the sacred space of mosques rugs and fakery, and an impor­ troupe. Creed was drafted. After a long from the Ottoman era, and tant visit to American expatriate We spent considerable time hiatus, Iznik ceramic tiles are now Byzantine churches Ayasofya and Josephine Powell, who has walking through Istanbul and being created for restor-ation Kariye C;:ami (5. Savior> in Chora. documented Anatolian nomadic Bursa, plus up and down roads in work on the mosques and for We also met with faculty and life for more than 50 years, the villages of Sultanbey Kay and sale. We had splendid food students at Marmara Uni-versity; culminating in her recent efforts Cumalikizik in the foothills of throughout the trip, but the two spent an intense morning at the to establish a center for the Bithynian Olympus. Walter had most memorable meals were an Vakko textile factory, an haute preservation and study of Turkish spent much of his youth wander­ al fresco lunch in an arbor at the couture silk fabric design and ethnographic textiles. ing through these cities. As we Iznik pottery, and a glorious manufacturing company; and picnic in a forest, where the some of us got together with • DOBAG weavers served us fresh Selma Kenter, who is spearhead­ vegetables with cheese and ing a quilting movement (a non­ bread, while we all sat on red­ traditional genre for Turkish blue carpets set amongst the women) inspired by contempo­ trees, like a vision from the diary rary Turkish aesthetics. of a Renaissance traveler. Now that we have returned, A few days later, we stopped without the muezzin's call to at Hereke at a government-spon­ prayer, the skies feel strangely sored enterprise and witnessed silent. expert weavers weaving silk - Suzanne P MacAulay carpets, while others used Chair, Visual and Performing jacquard looms to create voided­ Arts, University of Colorado, velvet, damask and lampas. This Colorado Springs experience really appealed to the art makers, weavers, and professors in the group.

A spinner with the DOBAG project.

FALL 2005 5 Kala Raksha from p. I and storage of textiles, basic col­ lections stewardship, scanning and of embroidered garments their digital photography, and creat- grandparents wore, to study their ing and maintaining a collections stitches and designs." database. The Museum catalog The Office of the Develop­ had been extensively developed ment Commissioner (Handicrafts), by Judy Frater, with 3Smm pho­ India, provided the initial funding. tographs laminated onto sheets The collection is low-volume but filled with detailed data, and content-rich. For a modest bud­ stored in 3-ring binders. get of U5$1O,000, the Trust was The IT staff quickly learned outfitted with two computers, the collections management soft­ a scanner, digital camera, color ware, and maintained backup sys­ printer, Pastperfea software and its tems. Developing skills in flat-bed companion networking software, scanning, digital photography, computer backup peripherals, and archiving methodologies, staff salary and my expenses. The they converted the paper-based local Assistant Director of DCH Workshop participants create a collections database and survey the records into digital files for the was present on the first day to collection. new system. kick off the project The collection care staff was With the Trust now equipped responsible for storage upgrade with the technology and expertise of over 600 objects. The collec­ to begin to preserve and access tions are housed in a traditional its Museum holdings for artisans, Bhunga style building (rounded researchers, and intemational structure with a conical roof) scholars, I conducted a six-week equipped with a ceiling fan. The training workshop (Feb.-Apr. 2005) campus is solar-powered. The on preservation methods, and interior temperature remained implemented the Pastperfea col­ fairly stable during the work lections management system, day, but the desert environment software introduced to India for provided an abundance of UV, the first time at the KRT. The fine mud particulates, insects, finite collection allowed for a and reptiles. A collections stor­ full-life-cyde implementation of age assessment was performed a collection management proj­ to identify overall storage needs. ect-each and every stage, from The majority of the textiles had storage assessment and upgrade Local artisans are taught to use the collections database by museum been folded and stored in plastic to building content-rich digital staff. bags in flat metal drawers. Mud archives, was accomplished for had filtered into the cabinets, the entire collection glass-front metal hanging units, cabinet for oversized textiles was depositing a fine layer of dust Five staff members, three IT configured onto aluminum tubes built and installed. onto the plastic-covered objects. staff and two collection care staff and covered in plastic. Along with the modemiza­ Rolled textiles were stored in (tailors)-were trained in handling We utilized local materials tion of the Museum, the Trust such as muslin and cotton twill conducted a two-week artisan tape; archival mat board was Design Development Workshop imported through a Chennai taught by senior faculty from paper vendor. Our first prior- the National Institute of Fashion ity was to remove the objects Technology (NIFT>. The new from the plastic bags, dean the information retrieval system was cabinets, and interleaf the objects well-utilized by artisans during with washed muslin. The rolled the workshop. The Museum staff textiles were immediately cov­ assisted in the design workshop ered in muslin and polyethylene by helping the artisans navigate sheeting to block out UV light the new collections database, and dust; printed accession labels retrieving objects, and document­ with color images were attached ing the new designs. A "Design to the polyethelyne exterior to Archive Collection," separate provide a visual reference for the from the heritage collection, was object. A new hanging storage created to aid in future curricu­ lum development.

Local artisans study a historic garment during a design workshop.

6 TSA NEWSLETTER I witnessed first-hand the Institute of Art, The Museum impact of digital access to a col­ of American Art & Design, the lection. In the Museum-based Metropolitan Museum of Art, design development workshop, the Art Institute of Chicago, and artisans and professors used the the Philadelphia Museum of collections database to select Art. Eight of the donated pieces objects for design inspiration. were included in Ward's 1991 This tool allowed for unlimited Retrospective Exhibition at the research into specific categories Cleveland Museum of Art. of the collection without opening As a support group of the a storage cabinet. ATHM Receives Grant Cleveland Museum of Art, one New AIC President The importance of preserv­ mission of the Textile Art Alliance ing cultural heritage in an earth­ IHE AMERICAN TEXTILE is to enlarge the textile collection N ANCY ODEGAARD, PHD, quake-prone region was further 1 HISTORY MUSEUM is pleased of the Museum. This fantastic Conservator and head highlighted as the staff and I had to announce that it has received collection of 30 textile pieces will of the Preservation Division the opportunity to attend a Work­ a Preservation and Access Grant be used to raise funds for the at Arizona State Museum, shop on Disaster Management from the National Endowment acquisition of materials for the has been elected president and Preparedness, organized by for the Humanities. The funds museum. Collectors interested of the American Institute for the National Museum Institute, will be used for a rolled textile in further information about the Conservation of Historic and New Delhi. storage project to increase exist­ works or in obtaining a copy of Artistic Works (Aiel. An inter­ Our goal was attained: access ing rolled textile storage by 50% the catalog of the Retrospective nationally recognized leader Exhibition may contact Katherine to collections increased, while and provide photographic docu­ and expert in museum and Dunlevey, 440/543-8138. overall handling decreased. Today mentation of over 100 coverlets field conservation, Odegaard [email protected] Kala Raksha's holdings are eas­ and bedcovers. The increase in has been at ASM since 1983. ily available to the artisans as a storage will provide appropriate She is also a Professor in resource for design inspiration. housing for two large coverlet Center for Traditional the University of Arizona's The "train-the-trainer method" collections, totaling 161 pieces, departments of Anthropology helped to ensure that the project that the Museum has acquired Textiles Opens New and Materials Science and is would be self-sustaining. In phase since its 1997 reopening in Gallery co-Director of the new UA II of the project, a web engine Lowell, MA. graduate program in Heritage Conservation Science. Nancy's will support world-wide access to "THE NEW CENTER FOR Tradi- work with human remains the heritage collection, as well as tional Textiles of Cusco, Peru Evelyn Svec Ward 1 internationally includes Lucy, function to market contemporary opened its exhibit gallery in July. Kennewick Man, and the hair designs produced by the Kala Donation to Cleveland The gallery construction com­ of Ludwig van Beethoven. Raksha artisans. Museum of Art pletes the remodeling of a building purchased by the center For more information on the IHE TEXTILE ART ALLIANCE of three years ago to house a store, Kala Raksha Trust, visit 1 the Cleveland Museum of business offices, an education http://www.kaia-raksha.orgltrust. Art has received 30 pieces from center, a work room, collection htm the collection of late textile artist Evelyn Svec Ward, representing storage, exhibition space, and - Mary Ann Sadagopan her work from 1965-1983. Ward dormitories for demonstration jOINTHETSA Collections Care Specialist, was a member of the Art Fabric weavers. The inaugural exhibition, LIS TSERVE Museum of Fine Arts, Boston "Weaving Lives: Traditional movement which emerged in the Listserve members receive [email protected] Textiles of Cuzco," is a tribute to late 1950s, creating works of art current announcements, the weavers and communities in fiber which broke traditional information on current boundaries. Ward's work in the who keep the region's weaving research, and may join lively techniques of needle-network, tradition alive. The attractive and discussions on textile topics. couching, knitting, and applique informative display is accompa­ To subscribe, send an email can be found in private and nied by explanations of the message to public collections in the US and textiles, their techniques, and their [email protected]. Mexico, including the Cleveland traditional uses. Photos and Put nothing in the subject Museum of Art, the Minneapolis Andean cultural artifacts affirm line. In the body of the mes­ the celebration of a living textile sage write: subscribe tsalist tradition. For more information, your email address. visit the Center's new bilingual Within the day you will "Mexicana Rosa," by Evelyn website: receive a letter detailing Svec Ward, 1969. Stitchery, www.textiiescusco.org list policies, including how to applique, and cutwork; burlap, net, and felt; cotton, unsubscribe, and you synt hetic, and ixtle threads will begin receiving email. on wool, 10.375" x2I.S."

FALL 2005 7 Eve Boicourt curated "Reveries of Far Away Places-Multicultural Textile Samplings from the Celilo Falls, linen inlay Collection of Eva M. Boicourt," tapestry, 59" x 89", by on view through Oct. 21 at City Judith Poxson Fawkes for Gallery, Farmington Hills, MI. a commission by Legacy Eve is a Research Associate with Salmon Creek Hospital, the Michigan State University Vancouver, WA, installed Museum, East Lansing, and has July 2005. curated similar exhibitions for Jacqueline M. Atkins was the last 20 years. [email protected]. appointed The Kate Fowler 2006 workshop can contact Foundation Gallery due to insur­ Merle-Smith Curator of Textiles [email protected]. ance and legal formalities. Camille Myers Breeze, Adjunct at the Allentown Art Museum. [email protected] Jacqueline holds MA and Professor in the MA Program in Julia Brennan has been awarded BS degrees from Columbia Fashion & Textile Studies at the a grant from the Friends of Karen Diadick Casselman, University and will receive her Fashion Institute of Technology, Bhutan's Culture to lead training Cheverie, Nova Scotia, was PhD this fall from the Bard NYC, brought a group of six workshops in textile conservation plenary speaker at the second graduate students to Peru in Graduate Center for Studies in in the Kingdom of Bhutan. The Natural Dyes and Pigments Jan. 2005. The group, along the Decorative Arts, Design, and Getty Foundation is providing Conference held at Naha with two Peruvian conservation Culture. She received a 1995- the funds for Phase II of textile Prefecture Museum, Okinawa, students and two archaeolo­ conservation training, building Japan, June 22-25. Author of 1996 Fulbright Research Award gists, conserved three mummies to study the history and practice on Julia's work done in 2003- Craft of the Dyer, and Lichen and nine textiles for the Museo 2004. She will be based at The Dyes: The New Source Book, of Westem-style quilting in Japan, Municipal de Huaca Malena, , in the Karen also led a lichen dye­ and she has lectured and pub­ located 100 km. south of Lima. capitol city of Thimphu. Julia ing workshop at nearby anna lished extensively on Japanese http://huacamalena.perucultural.org. will focus on augmenting staff Museum, attended by partici­ quilting, American quilt and pel Huaca Malena is a sacred education in preventative con­ pants from five countries. textile history, and American folk site with burials dating back to servation guidelines, upgrading [email protected] art. Her most recent publication, the Middle Horizon, approx. 700 the non-rolled storage facilities, Wearing Propaganda: Textiles on Be. Rommel Angeles Falcon, building micro-climates and con­ Deborah Corsini's tapestries the Home Front in Japan, Britain, Director of Huaca Malena, has ducting treatments on national were featured in a 2-person and the United States 1931-1945 worked since 1997 to raise textile treasures. This grant also exhibition "Lucid Dreams,

8 TSA NEWSLETTER hanging was in the "Constants comprises 234 individuals simi­ Treasure Gallery, Los Altos, The book's release coincides and Variables" exhibit spon­ larly celebrated for their work. CA. Sep. 12-0ct. I. It includes with Margaret's Oct. 5-29 retro­ sored by the Surface Design The designation of Council her handwoven indigo-dyed spective exhibition, "Uncommon Association in Kansas City, MO, Fellow honors an individual pieces inspired by the Ndop Threads: Stitched Artwork Jun. 3-Jul. 2. who demonstrates extraordi­ cloths of Cameroon and Nigeria, by Margaret Cusack" at the [email protected] nary ability as an artist and who as well as a collection of her Museum of American Illustration, has worked 25 years or more coiled waxed linen baskets. Society of Illustrators, New York. Mary Dusenbury, Mary in his or her respective field. [email protected] [email protected] Hunt Kahlenberg, and Linda [email protected] Wrigglesworth were featured Laura Strand gave a talk at Artwear: Fashion and Anti-fashion in an article in Art & Antiques, Meredith Jackson has a piece the Weave a Real Peace 2005 by Melissa Leventon places April 2005, entitled "New Spin in the show "Visions in Textiles: Conference, Connecting Culture, artwear into context as the latest on Old Traditions: Asian Textiles' From Tradition to Textile Art! Pas~ Present and Future, entitled in the long line of aesthetic dress Burgeoning New Market." Design of Tomorrow" in Izmir, 'Teaching and Learning: A reforms that began with the Turkey. It is an international exhi­ University Studio Art Experience Arts and Crafts movement, then Judith Poxon Fawkes com­ bition in conjunction with the of Trique Weaving." She par­ traces its history as it developed pleted two commissioned inlaid 13th European Textile Network ticipated in "Expression of Zeros out of the street styles and studio linen tapestries, "Celilo Falls" Conference in September. and Ones," a traveling group fiber art of the 19605 and 1970s and "Cascades Rapids," for the Meredith will also attend the exhibition organized by the until today. Published by Thames Legacy Salmon Creek Hospital, conference. Museum of Design in Atlanta, & Hudson, 2005. Vancouver, Washington. The [email protected] GA this past summer, curated by ISBN 0-500-28537-3 works were installed in the Carol Le Baron. [email protected] main lobby on Aug. 3, 2005 Susan Brown McGreevy [email protected] [email protected] has been named a Trustee of A new video and DVD, the Gloria F. Ross Center for Snyderman-Works Gallery exhib­ "Splendor in the Highlands: Linda Gass' works entitled Tapestry Studies at the University ited Carol Westfall's "Crowded Maya Weavers of Guatemala," "Puzzle of Salt" and "After the of Arizona. [email protected] Planets" at SOFA New York, 27 minutes, has been pro­ Gold Rush" are included in "The and three pieces are now in the duced by Endangered Threads Ever-Changing Landscape" at the Thomas Murray's latest article. collection of the Racine (WI) Documentaries (www.endan­ Kentucky Museum of Art and appearing in the current issue Art Museum. She will have geredthreads.com). Margot of Hali, is about the Textile Craft, Louisville, KY through Oct. work in the 2005 "Miniartextile Blum Schevill, textile scholar Museum's Indonesian collection. 22. Both works are paintings on [email protected] Como" exhibition in Italy, as and anthropologist, introduces silk crepe de chine which were well as at the 2005 "New Jersey 22 contemporary Maya weav­ machine quilted. The exhibit fea­ Teresa Paschke has been select­ Annual Exhibition," held this ers, their weaving styles, and tures works by fiber artists, paint­ ed as a finalist for the 2005 year at the Jersey City Museum. techniques. The videographer is ers and photographers who are Elizabeth Rockwell Raphael [email protected] former Peace Corps Volunteer inspired by the landscape. Her Founder's Prize for excellence in Kathleen Mossman Vitale, pro­ art quilt "Forbidden Full Moon" is the field of contemporary crafts. Linda Wrigglesworth Ltd. ducer of art documentaries for included in "Quilts!" at the Carl A two-year traveling exhibition returns to New York Sep. 15- the past five years. It is available Solway Gallery, Cincinnati, OH, is scheduled to tour the US. 23 to promote her contempo­ for $20. Send inquiries to Sep. 9-Dec. 23. linda@lindagass. [email protected] rary fashion line at the Rubin [email protected] or com Museum of Art. The elegant gar­ [email protected]. Scott Schuldt's sewn beadwork ments are inspired by the styles Ann Hedlund lectured Jul. 30 triptych "Introduction to Basket­ worn during the Qing dynasty Annie Van Assche is principal at the Santa Cruz (CA) Museum makers." received an Honorable (l644-191l). During the event, author of a new publication of Natural History on "Working Mention at the 2005 Craft the robes of the Qing court on on Japanese textiles, Fashioning with Navajo (& Other> Weavers: Biennial at the Oregon College which they are based will be on Kimono: Dress and Modernity in An Anthropologist's Reflections." of Art and Craft. The piece is view by appointment. Early Twentieth-Century Japan. It On Sep. 8, Ann spoke to the a narrative beadwork about an lindawrigglesworth.com will be released by 5 Continents Central Coast Weavers Guild, Earthwatch Institute archaeo­ Editions of Milan, Italy this fall. San Luis Obispo, CA on "Navajo logical survey in which the artist Member Publications [email protected] Weaving-Past and Present." participated in 2004. The three Margaret Cusack has written [email protected] panels portray the process of col­ a book on her stitched artwork lecting data (peeled cedar trees for Watson-Guptill Publications. PROMOT£TSA TSA congratulates Pat Hickman, for basket materials), the subjects Picture Your World in Applique: who has been elected a Fellow of the research, and the artifacts Creating Unique Images With TSA's beautiful membership of the American Craft Council that remain. The survey took Fabric includes seven projects brochures are available from in recognition of her outstand­ place on Sa uk Indian ancestral plus galleries of the stitched art ing artistic achievement and the TSA office. Please take land in Western Washington with images that she has created over leadership in the field. She was some brochures with you the blessing of the Sauk-Siuattle her 33-year career. It is available nominated and elected by her to textile-related events to Tribe. [email protected] in bookstores this fall or from peers, who form the American distribute to colleagues and Watson-Guptill, 800/278-8477. Craft Council College of Fellows. "Woven Treasures by Barbara friends. Inaugurated in 1975, the College Shapiro" is on view at the [email protected]

FALL 2005 9 motifs and layout. Her interest in these materials long preceded their late 20th century popular­ ity and acquisition by European and American rug collectors and museums. Beginning in January 2005, the Shangri La Suzani Research Project began to document this group of suzani with respect Shangr; La Suzan; to embroidery stitches, ground Research Projea 2005 fabric, color, motifs and patterns. Carol Bier directed the course Figure 2. Suzani show­ N 1935 DORIS DUKE MARRIED of inquiry and structured the I ing use of symmetry James Cromwell, and together processes of analysis and inter­ and symmetry break­ they embarked on a year-long pretation; Ann Perlman initiated ing in its design. voyage around the world. and undertook macro- and micro­ Among her many purchases photographic documentation curator, contributed historical composed of two suzan is, we were several textiles identified and associated record-keeping; information derived from archi­ could find no more than a single as sujnee on Bombay merchants' Sahra Indio conducted analysis val records and photographs, hand evident in the execution invoices, as recorded in lists of of ground materials (warp and and comparables from other of the embroidery on different expenses. The Cromwells' last weft) and weave structure, and museum collections and auction strips sewn together to form a port of call was Honolulu, where contributed to the documenta­ catalogues. complete object. they eventually purchased land tion and analysis of color, motifs, Through visual examina- The research undertaken for and built a house. This house, and stitches. She also contributed tion and analysis, we came to this project has led to the sub­ called Shangri La, recently to the preparation of the anno­ new understandings of colors, mission of two comprehensive opened as a museum housing tated bibliography, stitch list, and motifs, and stitches-that they are research reports at Shangri La Doris Duke's expansive collec­ glossary. Ann extracted samples relational rather than discrete cat­ (Phase I, January 2005; Phase tions of Islamic art, acquired of fibers for examination and egories. Together they contribute 2, March 200S), and to publica­ over the following six decades. identification using a binocular to the visual appearance of the tion so far of an initial paper by Nine of the embroidered textiles microscope, and contributed whole. Variations in stitch type, Carol Bier on "Symmetry and acquired by Mrs. Cromwell, who to the analysis of embroidery size, placement, orientation and Symmetry-Breaking: An Approach remained better known as Miss stitches. In spite of divisions of density, combine to play with to Understanding Beauty," deliv­ Duke, are today called suzan; labor that evolved as the project effects of light. In the case of one ered at the Bridges Conference after the Persian and Tajik word developed, our working methods, object, differences in stitch com­ (Mathematical Connections in for needlework (literally "of the intellectual engagement, and position led us to identifiy two Art, Music, and Science) at the needle"). Duke continued to pur­ interactive interpretive discus­ suzan is used in its assembly: it is Banff Centre in Canada in July chase suzanis; at the time of her sions resulted in what can only composed of 26 individual frag­ 2005. We have plans to pursue death in 1993, she had fifteen be described as a collaborative ments (jigs. 1a and bY. publication of articles in several diverse examples, representing endeavor. Sharon Littlefield, cura­ During the course of this periodicals and to produce a differences in style, color range, tor, and Keelan Loftin, assistant project, we also came to appre­ more substantial book publica­ ciate aspects of this craft that tion in the future. exhibit a clear articulation of the This work may also provide relationship of symmetry and a foundation for the develop­ beauty that relies upon symme­ ment of an exhibition at the try-breaking. While the stitching East-West Center in Honolulu, in each object was consistent, for which Sharon Littlefield and what particularly distinguishes Michael Schuster will serve as these suzanis is the careful atten­ curators. There is considerably tion to both symmetry and sym­ more work to be published in metry-breaking (jig. 2). areas of analytical documenta­ To judge from published lit­ tion and interpretation that can erature, these suzanis would have push the boundaries of how we been manufactured by women understand these extraordinary by hand, presumably engaged textiles, as products of human in the preparation of dowries skill and ingenuity working with for use in marriage ceremonies simple materials in creative ways. Figure I a: A suzani assembled Figure I b: Reconstruction of the and the bride's household. But - Carol Bier from pieces of two suzan is, niched suzani from pieces found contrary to the literature, with Research Associate including one that had a niche. within the suzani shown in fig. I a. the exception of the one object The Textile Museum 10 TSA NEWSLETTER together groups with different everything from yarn, to silks furnishings and upholstery. This missions, e.g., those focusing from China, to rain forest prod­ event was particularly significant on contemporary textile art as ucts); a bookstore focused on in that it was the first of its kind well as constituencies from the textiles; and a restaurant where held in Europe. The introduction museum, industry, academic and people could gather. Meeting of the concept of preserving orig­ art worlds? Might it instead be and lecture spaces would be inal upholstery materials and the a virtual place, a consortium of included. In addition, the center various aspects that go with it existing organizations? Should it could feature regularly-scheduled represents a quantum leap in the have an international or national demonstrations organized by international acceptance for the focus? Is it needed at all? Those local-interest organizations. The field of upholstery conservation. who felt it should exist as a bricks­ point would be to make this an Upholstery conservation has NATIONAL TEXTILE CENTE R and-mortar place felt strongly important destination for any­ been practiced in the US for 25 MEETING REPORT that it should be in a major East­ thing related to the textile world, to 30 years, so it was not surpris­ Coast city with significant tour­ and to bring together all aspects ing that the majority of speakers In March, Michael Smith of the ism and international traffic. of that world under one roof were American. Fifteen conser­ American Textile History Museum While the initial discus- (While this would be a nation- vators spoke on topics ranging convened a 'visioning' meeting to dis­ cuss the idea of developing a national sion generated many questions al center, its scope would be from treatment descriptions and textile center. The partidpants received and few answers, an energizing global.) historical upholstery techniques a vision statement prior to attending. vision caught the imagination of As Michael Smith sum­ to analytical techniques and Beverly Gordon reports on the ensu­ the very different individuals and marized, we came up with a documentation. The audience ing discussion. constituencies in the room. Since proposition that involves broad consisted of over 85 partici­ it was clear to all that we are collaboration and mixes preser­ pants from nine northwestern IHE MEETING BEGAN with competing with shopping malls vation, education, and commer­ European countries, the US, and 1 participants sharing what it and consumerism (which is iron­ cial interests. It would involve Canada, and included traditional is that holds their interest in the ic, since textiles are the backbone institutions and individuals upholsterers working in either field. While the stories varied, the of so much of the retail industry), with broad interests in textiles, their own businesses or on royal central theme was that textiles we played with the idea of actu­ American and beyond. It is time collections, as well as textile, fur­ in some way link us to other ally using this. to test the idea to see if others niture and upholstery conserva­ people. Some were primarily This textile center could find it appealing or necessary, tors working in private practice, affected by the objects them­ function as a kind of textile­ and to explore practical logistics museums, or public collections. selves, others by their meanings related mall or bazaar. It might about funding and participants. The conference was in terms of social and cultural have a few "anchors"-in the I encourage TSA members to held in Vadstena, a medieval history-the fact that people's form of museums with different, respond with their feedback and town on the eastern shore of lives have literally been framed complementary sorts of collec­ input. Please contact Michael Lake Vattern. It was here that in textile contexts. tions. Gallery space might also Smith at the American Textile Sweden's patron saint, St. Bridget We talked about the sad be given to the latest wearable History Museum, 492 Dutton

FALL 2005 II Conference Reviews from p. II presented a new and stimulating College of Art and Design, demonstrated katazome (stencil hypothesis regarding ship cloths Eastern Michigan University, printing with past resistl; experience of sharing informa­ from Cambodia. Appalachian State University, the Minaguchi Design Studio and tion has inspired plans to further Linda S. Mcintosh was School of the Art Institute of Orinasu Kan for jacquard weaving broaden the range of European responsible for an outstanding Chicago, and Philadelphia of traditional obi; and Nishijin-ori contacts for this growing field of exhibition, displayed at the James University in a month-long fabric Kaikan for a beautiful kimono conservation HW Thompson Foundation design study abroad program in fashion show. of Ritual Tai Textiles, for which Kyoto, Japan. We formed a After this full week of - Anne Battram she has also compiled an excel­ diverse and rather eclectic group cultural wonders, we moved on Biltmore Company, NC lent catalog. Linda's symposium of undergraduate and graduate to Kawashima Textile School for - David Bayne presentation explored the social students led by Professor an intensive three weeks' study Pebbles Island, NY roles of textiles in Phuthai cul­ Kaufman, who guided us through of traditional Japanese fabric tech­ - Nancy Britton ture. She led a post- conference the intensive month-long niques. We stayed at Seminar Metropolitan Museum, NY tour along the Mekong between experience. House, a dormitory that housed Thailand and Laos. On arrival in Japan, we were students, as well as business men Perhaps the most important taken to the Ryokan Rakucho, a and women. We ate traditional STATUS, MYTH AND THE message, with particular per­ traditional Japanese inn in Kyoto. Japanese meals (always with riceD tinence to the upcoming TSA We slept on comfortable futons, in the school cafeteria with other SUPERNATUAL: UNRAVELING conference, "Textile Narratives were provided a yukata (a cotton students, artists, and professionals THE SECRETS OF SOUTHEAST and Conversations," was found in printed kimono), and learned the engaged in study and work at ASIAN TEXTILES Roy Hamilton's session. He noted proper etiquette of wearing Kawashima. that the meanings of symbols in slippers indoors. We spent our Our first week of study was AUGUST 4-7, 2005 a culture were in most cases lost first week absorbing Japanese on roketsuzome (wax resist BANGKOK, THAILAND within three generations, and culture by visiting craft markets, dyeing), with Shoukoh Kobayashi spoke of this issue during his attending the Aoi Matsuri parade Sensei. We experimented with ITH THE HIGH STANDARDS presentation on bark cloth skirts (celebrating the new season), and various techniques using a flower W set at the previous James from southwestern Borneo. experiencing the tea ceremony template, and also created our HW Thompson Foundation Papers from the 1999 event ritual. We toured museums, own unique piece of work. The event "Through the Thread of were published at the beginning galleries, temples, and shrines, second week we studied the art Time: Southeast Asian Textiles," of 2005; however symposium and of course, spent a lot of yen of shifu (spinning washi paper into held in 1999, the organizers had coordinator Jane Puranananda shopping. Numerous department yam), weaving, and kumihimo set themselves a hard act to fol­ promises an early publication stores and shops in downtown (Japanese braiding), with Keiko low. At this symposium, their to follow this event. Professor Kyoto will remember Professor Yoshida Sensei. The third week professionalism shone through William J. Klausner, President Kaufman and his girls! we studied katazome with Keiko yet again. of the James HW Thompson We spent evenings socializing Imamura Sensei. Papers were consistently Foundation, and his team deserve and eating with Japanese students A typical day included tea excellent, and a well-balanced applause for setting a new stan­ and professors from Seika Univer­ and breakfast in the cafeteria, range of textiles from the region dard of excellence in textile sity, Seian University of Art and class from 8:00 a.m.-noon, at was represented. Robin Maxwell scholarship. Design, and a few locals eager to cafeteria lunch, attending a gave an account of Islamic tex­ practice their English. This was a special event off-campus, dinner tiles from Indonesia featuring - Diana Collins Hong Kong great opportunity for us to leam in the cafeteria or a downtown calligraphic motifs and their pat­ and appreciate Japanese custom restaurant, then back to the terns of use, from gold couched and culture, to use our dictionar­ studio to work until \0:00 p.m. courtly pieces used in Aceh prov­ ies, and for our gracious hosts to ince to Javanese pieces worked TEXTILE STUDY IN KYOTO demonstrate their very impressive in batik. language skills! UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA STUDY Diana Myers spoke of We also attended ABROAD PROGRAM, JAPAN 2005 the parallels between Tai and Kamogawa Odori (a Bhutanese cloths, while Barbara traditional geisha and David Fraser, whose book , 1 '[HEN I ENTERED GRADUATE dance performance), Mantles of Merit: Chin Textiles from V V school at the University of a Noh Theatre Myanmar, India and Bangladesh Georgia, I became interested in Performance, and a (River Books, Bangkok) was the amazing study abroad Kabuki Theatre launched at the symposium, program offered by Professor performance. The gave the audience a detailed Glen Kaufman each year to gorgeous costumes, account of weave structures fabric design students from US stage design, and used as markers of status by the universities. This summer I was music were breath­ Chin. Gillian Green, recipient of fortunate to join twelve students taking. We also TSA's RL. Shep award in 2004 from the University of Georgia, visited Kuriyama (Traditional Textiles of Cambodia, Cranbrook Academy of Art, the Kobo design studio also published by River Books), University of Washington, Moore Above: Indigo Dyeing at the Little Indigo where artists Muesum. Right: Katazome Technique at Minaguchi Design Studio.

12 TSA NEWSLETTER One special Sunday we quilter was presented with multi­ M ATISS E: THE FABRIC OF traveled to the mountains to level decision-making-each meet with Hiroyuki Shindo, a willful tum of a patterned design D REAMS H IS ART AND Hi s Japanese master in the art of module in a hexagon mosaic, T EXTILES indigo dyeing techniques. We for instance, had optical spent the day dyeing beautiful consequences. METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART scarves, touring the Little Indigo Before letting us step back to JUNE 23-SEPTEMBER 25 Museum, and taking in the behold the compositional whole, breathtaking view of mountains Shaw also calls attention to the THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN and surrounding rice paddies. deliberate and mindful selection 1 Henri Matisse's lifelong My most memorable INFIN ITE V ARI ETY: of contrasts and counterpoint in interest in textiles and the artist's experience was being invited to juxtaposed and contiguous AMERICAN QUILTS AND paintings, drawings, prints, and interview fiber artist Kyoko Nitta textiles: large-small patterns, light painted paper cutouts is the in preparation for my graduate C OVERLETS and dark solids, matte-shiny, etc. focus of this stunning exhibit at presentation to the class. I was THE RISD MUSEUM She suggests that it was this the Met. honored to personally meet and PROVIDENCE, RI conscious act, predicated by the This is the first public interview such an amazing artist, JUNE 17 - SEPTEMBER 18, 2005 quiet pace of the work and the showing of Matisse's personal whose work appeared on the submission to an overarching textile collection, which he re­ cover of Fiberarts in 2004. ,-.0 PRESENT A NEW AND repeat structure. This encouraged ferred as his "working library," For an entire month I was 1 relevant concept for an the maker to commit, it seems, to and, frankly, it is a "library" that I immersed in Japanese custom, exhibition of quilts hardly seems small subversions or personal would not mind spending a few tradition, and culture; studied possible. Yet, it was achieved, amusements of "infinite variety." months exploring. The items on traditional fabric design tech­ guided by inquisitive curatorial Here, Shaw also cautions us of niques with distinguished delight, in RISD's main museum the easy analogy often made display are primarily from Asia, Japanese teachers; met many galleries this summer. Sixteen between quilts and certain Africa and Europe, and include truly amazing and talented artists; rarely-seen examples from the expressions in 20th-century art. hangings, garments, carpets, and and earned graduate credits permanent collection are on The kinship is merely skin-deep lengths and swatches of fabric while enjoying the travel display to illustrate engaging and because quilts, apart from their Many of the textiles experience of a lifetime. I also penetrating new viewpoints. In multi-layered processes and featured in the paintings and acquired a wealth of imagery and addition, one coverlet is also on unlike paintings, are three­ prints on view are hung along ideas for future projects and ate a display satellite fashion, on the dimensional and destined to be side the corresponding art works. record amount of rice! I hope bed for which it was made, now seen from many vantage points. These groupings help to illumi­ every artist is able to enjoy a housed in the Museum's A nine-page Exhibition Note nate both the artist's process of similar experience. American Wing. Madelyn Shaw, (No. 24, Summer 2005) inspiration and our understanding Acting Curator of Costume and accompanies the exhibition. It is of the transformation of what -Meghan Moser Textiles, made the selection from lavishly illustrated with full-color was often already a work of art MFA Candidate in Fabric Design, the museum's 45 quilts to images and details and catalogue into another one by Matisse. The University of Georgia highlight issues of the makers' sidebars of all of the quilts. There Among the textiles included msm [email protected] intent, along with material is a penetrating essay by Madelyn are several North African pierced choices that are rarely addressed. Shaw, and a well-informed article and appliqued hangings seen in A first visual impact is one of on quilt conservation and pre­ the backgrounds of Reclining standard chronological organiza­ servation by Kate Irvin, Curatorial Odalisque and Odalisque with Grey tion, with quilts from the late Assistant at the museum's Culottes, an Ottoman striped silk 18th century to the mid-20th. Department of Costume and robe worn by the model in both The differences are soon Textiles. A literature list includes a Purple Robe and Anemones and apparent, however, as a quirky title that addresses the quilts of Small Odalisque in a Purple Robe. individuality of striking coloristic Rhode Island, a subtext in the There are also several beautiful effects in each piece transcends exhibition's genealogical informa­ couture gowns and coats; a lovely the temporal aspects. Lucid wall tion, and a Web resource listing collection of Romanian peasant labels discuss inherent features of for quilts. If you missed the visual blouses from Matisse's collection. technical and material nature; delight and thoughtful presenta­ worn by his models in a series of they invite close examination of tion of this exhibition, do make pen-and-ink drawings from the micro-components such as all efforts to secure a copy of this stitching density, thread choice, publication. 1930s and in The Dream, and and texture in the chosen fabrics. Polynesian and African textiles On another level of perceptive -Desiree Koslin that heavily influenced Matisse's assessment, the color and pattern Fashion Institute of Technology paper cutouts and ecclesiastical choices are investigated. It is New York vestments. proposed that at every step, the To page 14

FALL 2005 13 Exhibits from p. 13 Nezhnie met her husband­ Viking Age Headcoverings to explore these Medieval Dublin to-be, Sheldon Helfman, when (rom Dublin excavations from an anthropo­ This exhibit apparently they were both students at the by Elizabeth Wincott Heckett logical, sociological and aesthetic covers only a small portion of the Cooper Union School of Art in Royal Irish Academy 2003 point of view. At first this study artist's textile holdings, and I can New York in the 1950s. After Pp. 152, Hardcover may seem to have a limited pur­ only hope that the collection will graduation and marriage, she 95 b/w illustrations, 14 tables, view; however, upon completing inspire more research. accompanied Helfman on a GI XVI color plates this impressive volume a more tour of duty in Germany, where ISBN: 0-9543855-5-1 expansive view of these cloth -Beth DellaRocco she learned the rudiments of Price: USD $35.50 / EUR 30.00 objects and their historic con­ Saratoga Springs, NY weaving. When she was admitted text is revealed. The reader will as a graduate student of art at North American Agent: ISBS discover an uncanny and under­ Yale on the GI Bill, her role was

14 TSA NEWSLETTER Perishable Material Culture in DeeAnne Wymer and Virginia Presently, an average of the Northeast Wimberley focus on textiles 60,000 documents are down­ Penelope Ballard Drooker, Editor and other perishables of the loaded by site visitors each New York State Museum Bulletin Hopewell Moundbuilder culture. month. The site also publishes No. 500, 2004 William Johnson and Andrew an online newsletter. For more The University of the State of Myers explore the relationship information, contact its manager, New York between cordage twist and eth­ Ralph E. Griswold. The State Education Department, nicity through a study of cordage [email protected]. Albany impressions from the Allegheny Plateau. Christina Reith uses Textile Fundamentals THIS BOOK JOINS a growing list cord- and fabric-impressed of edited volumes on archae­ ceramics to study fabrics, interac­ University of Arizona's on CD-Rom ological perishable technologies tion, and exchange among Late Digital Textile Archive by Penelope Ballard Drooker Prehistoric populations of the THE COLLEGE OF TEXTILES, (see also Fleeting Identities: Susquehanna Valley. THE UNNERSITY OF ARIZONA'S North Carolina State Perishable Material Culture in A chapter by James Petersen website is the repository for University, now licenses a CD­ Archaeological Research (2001), and Malinda B1ustain examines an On-Line Archive of Documents based Distance Learning course and Beyond Cloth and Cordage: the diversity of early historic on weaving, lace, and related top­ entitled Textile Fundamentals, Archaeological Textile Research in Native American clothing on ics. This academic website, estab­ based upon the Textile Funda­ the Americas (2000>, with Laurie the coast of Maine. Margaret lished in 1999, has no funding mentals Professional Education Webster!' The present volume, Ordonez and Linda Welters and is entirely a volunteer effort. short course. This valuable which grew out of a symposium provide an analysis of textile and It serves as a document reposi­ training resource allows the held during the 2002 Northeast leather artifacts from three 17th- tory, an educational resource, and customer flexibility at a low cost Natural History Conference in 19th century Native American a research resource. and topics can be tailored to fit Albany, NY, contains 10 chapters and Euro-American sites and an The documents on the site customer needs. For more by various contributors and an early Native American assem­ are high-quality digital facsimiles information, please go to www. excellent introduction and glos­ blage from Cape Cod. Drooker that faithfully preserve pictures tx. ncsu.eduldistancelleaming/ demos sary by Drooker. and George R. Hamell conclude and color. They are in Portable She opens the book with a the volume with a delightful Document Format© (PDf), so Tapestry Bibliography valuable survey of the types of chapter about a 17th-century that they can be read and printed Has a New Online evidence that account for the twined "wampum bag" with a on computer systems of all types. preservation of perishables in fascinating collection history. Among the documents available Location the region. A chapter by J. M. With its focus on the little­ are books, monographs, articles, Adovasio and J. S. IIIingsworth known perishable traditions of manuscripts, and even patents MAJOR BIBLIOGRAPHY on Atapestry compiled by examines the developmental northeastern North America, and ephemera. Most documents Courtney Shaw in 1999 is now trajectories of fiber technolo­ Drooker's latest book is highly are in English, but 20 other lan­ available at gies of the Upper Ohio Valley. recommended reading for guages are represented. http://www.si1.si.edu/silpublications/ Another by Adovasio and four archaeologists, perishables ana­ The site contains facsimiles tapestry-bibliography!. The co-authors presents an analysis lysts, and textile historians. of several old and rare docu­ of an early twined textile from previous version of this docu­ - Laurie Webster ments, the oldest being from New York. Contributions by ment which was located on the Tucson, AZ 1561. Many classic works on weaving are available, as well as Gloria F. Ross Center for Tapestry some little-known ones. Most of Studies website has been removed. Dr. Shaw will TSA OFFICE the documents are in the pub­ TSA DUES SCHEDULE lic domain, but there also are occasionally update her bibliogra­ For membership updates Individual North America $55, recent works by permission of phy and can be reached at [email protected] . inquiries, or for TSA Tour (2 yr: $1 10) their copyright holders. Notable information: Foreign $65, (2 yr: $ I 30) contributions of this kind are Kim Righi, Membership Manager from Peter Collingwood, Paul R. Seattle Textile and Rug Textile Society of America Student North America $30, O'Connor, and Karen Searle. P.O. Box 70 Foreign $40 There presently are more Society online Earleville, MD 21919-0070 than 6,200 documents on the Institution North America $70, IHE SEATTLE TEXTILE and Rug TEL: 410/275-2329 site and new ones are added at 1 Society is now online with a Foreign $80 FAX: 410/275-8936 the rate of about 100 per month. website at http:// EMAIL [email protected] Supporting North America $35, A series of CDs of material from www.seattletextileandrugsociety.org. Foreign $145 the website assures the lasting Renew your membership by (Includes an $80 tax-deductible preservation of content. These New WARP Website [email protected] donation) CDs are available from on-line WEAVE A REAL PEACE has a Vi s it http://www.textilesociety.org sources. The website derives no new website at for membership forms, tour Corporate (US & Foreign) $1000 income from CD sales. http://www. weavearealpeace.org information and latest news.

FALL 2005 15 Glass," with Karen Hampton, INDIANA Philip Agee, and Pamina Taylor. Indianapolis TEL 323/937-4230. www.cafam.org Museum of Art. Sep. 25- UC Davis Design Museum. Oct. Jan. 22, 2006: 16-Dec. 2: "Slash, Bum and Cut: "International Art of Jean Caciceido and Janet Arts and Lipkin." TEL 530/ 752-6150. Crafts," nearly http://design.ucdavis .edulmuseum 300 objects from Europe, Palos Verdes Art Center. Nov. America, United States 19-Jan. 8, 2006: "Fifth Biennial and Japan. International Juried Wearable Organized by the Victoria and Michael James, "A Strange Expressions" TEL 310/541-2479. Albert Museum. TEL 317/923-1331. Riddle," 2002, digitally developed ARIZONA www.ima-art.org and printed cotton on view at Phoenix Art Museum. To Nov. Treasure Gallery, Los Altos. To Fuller Craft Museum. 6: "Emilio Pucci." www.phxart.org Oct. I: "Woven Treasures by IOWA Barbara Shapiro." Vesterheim Norwegian­ CALIFORNIA TEL 650-948-9900. American Museum, Decorah. Peabody Museum, Cambridge. San Jose Museum of Quilts Sep. 19-0ct. 22: "Frisk og Oct. 21-June, 2007: "The Moche COLORADO and Textiles. Sep. 17-Jan. 8, Flink: Fresh Artwork by Clever of Ancient Peru: Media and 2006: 'Traditions in Transition: Denver Art Museum. To Dec. Weavers." Oct. 10-Feb. 20, 2006: Messages." Three Views of the Permanent 31,2006: "Blanket Statements," "A Common Thread: Weaving www.peabody.harvard.edu Collection." Includes a sampling of Navajo textiles of the 1980s Traditions of Norway and 19th and early 20th century qUilts and early 1990s. Dec. 2-Jan. 18: Sweden." Curated by Katherine Fiber Art Center, Amherst. To and woven coverlets; textiles and "Beyond Fibers: New Forms." TEL Larson. Oct. 21 -Jan. 22, 2006: Oct. 15: "Bamboo: The Elegant garments and contemporary works 720/ 865-5000. "Weaving Bewitchment: Gerhard Grass." TEL 413/256-1818. from artists such as Jeanne Gray, www.denverartmuseum.org Munthe's Folk-Tale Tapestries." www./iberartcenter.com Carolyn Lee Vehslage, and Priscilla Features a series of 10 tapestries Sage. www.sjquiltmuseum.org CONNECTICUT exhibited in the US for the first Fuller Craft Museum, Brockton. Sep. 10-Jan. 2, 2006: "Questioning Silvermine Guild Art Center, time. TEL 563/382-9681. Getty Center, Los Angeles. To Convention: The Studio Quilts of New Canaan. Oct. 16-Nov. 18: www.vesterheim.org Oct. 2: "Shrine and Shroud: "Craft USA 05." Michael James." Textiles in lIIuminated Manu­ www.silvermineart.org KENTUCKY www·fullercraftmuseum.org scripts." Showing use of textile fragments in the construction of Kentucky Museum of Arts MICHIGAN manuscripts and simulated textiles DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA and Crafts, Louisville. To Ford Gallery, Eastern Michigan in manuscript illumination; also The Textile Museum. Oct. Oct. 22: 'The Ever-Changing University, Ypsilanti. Oct. 3-28: the symbolic value of textiles used 14-Feb. 12,2006: "Rozome Landscape,"includes works by "Recursions: Material Expressions as shrines, shrouds, curtains, and Masters of Japan," 15 contempo­ Cyndy Barbone and Linda Gass. cloths of honor. www.getty.edu rary Japanese artists. To Jan. 15, kentuckyarts.org of Zeros and Ones." 2006: "Gods and Empire: Huari Craft and Folk Arts Museum, Ceremonial Textiles," 12 tapestry­ MARYLAND MINNESOTA Los Angeles. To Sep. 25: The Art woven objects from the museum's Baltimore Museum of Art. Goldstein Museum of Design, of Straw. collection. Curated by Ann Pollard To Sep. 18: "A Legacy of Lace:: University of Minnesota, St. Paul. Rowe. To Feb. 26, 2006: "Silk and www.cafam.org Selections from the Cone To Sep. 17: "Maya Textiles from Leather: Splendid Attire of 19th Collection" and "Filigree Spaces: the Guatemalan Highlands." Oct. Far Leaves Tea House, Berkeley. Century Central Asia." Textile Installations by Piper 2-Jan. 8, 2006: "Mind over Matter, Oct.-Nov.: "Joyce Hulbert-3 New TEL 2021667-0441. Shepard." Nov. 9-May 14, 2006: Body Under Design," wearable art Series," textile/sculpture assem­ www.textilemuseum.org "Woven Rainbows: American by Korean artist KeySook Geum blage, drawing, and mixed media Indian Trade Blankets." Wool trade and a collaboration between work. TEL 510/ 665-9409. Smithsonian Arthur M. Sackler blankets from the museum's col­ Korean and Minnesotan design Gallery. Oct. 29-Jan. 22, 2006: lection. Curated by Anita Jones. students. TEL 612/624-7434. Fine Arts Museums of San "The Crescent and the Rose: TEL 410/396-7100. www.artbma.org http://goldstein.che.umn.edu Francisco, Legion of Honor Bldg. Ottoman Imperial Textiles from To Oct. 30: "Artwear: Fashion and the Sixteenth and Seventeenth MASSACHUSETTS Textile Center of Minnesota, Anti-Fashion." Curated by Melissa Centuries." Minneapolis. To Oct. I: American Textile History Leventon. Catalog. fam.sforg "Minnesota Quilts: Creating Museum, Lowell. Oct. 23-Apr. 2, ILLINOIS Connectios with our Past." Oct. 2006: "Finishing Touches" looks at Craft and Folk Arts Museum, 22-23: "Artwear in Motion" run­ Douglas Dawson Gallery, San Francisco. Sep. 14-Nov. 27: accessories in historical terms and way show. TEL 612/435-0464. Chicago. Oct. 28-Nov. 26: "Material Matters: Three Masterful as a part of contemporary fashion. www.textilecentermn.org "Contemporary Textiles by Frank Ongoing: "Textiles in America." Approaches to Fiber, Wood, and Connet." www.douglasdawson.com TEL 978/441-0400. www.athm.org

16 TSA NEWSLETTER MISSOURI Metropolitan Museum of Art, Denison University Art International New York. To Sep. 25: "Matisse: Saint Louis Art Museum. To Museum. Sep. 23-Dec. II: The Fabric of Dreams, His Art and Oct. 23: "Sleep in Beauty: Bed "Around the World and Back BELGIUM His Textiles."Catalog available at Coverings from Around the Again," textiles collected by the http://www.royalacademy.org.uh Museum of Costume and Lace, World." TEL 314/721-0072. museum and by local collectors. www.metmuseum.org www.denison.edu Brussels. To Dec. 31 : Lace of www.slam.org Belgium. www.brudty.be

St. Louis Regional Arts The Museum at FIT, New York. PENNSYLVANIA To Dec. 10: "Dutch at the Edge of CANADA Commission. Various venues. To Fabric Workshop and Museum, Design: Fashion and Textiles from Nov. IS: "Innovations in Textiles Philadelphia. To Sep. 17: "Do-Ho Textile Museum of Canada, the Netherlands" presents innova­ 6." A consortium of galleries Suh." www.fabricworhshop.org Toronto. To Sep. 25: "Isaacs Seen: showcase work of 125 fiber artists, tive and unconventional Dutch Closet Collector." To Oct. 21: fashion and textiles by 30 plus lectures and tours. Lancaster Quilt and Textile "Fassett! Patchwork Quilts by designers. TEL 212/217-5800. [email protected] Museum. To Dec. 31: "Textiles Kaffe Fassett." Sep. 28-Mar. 27, www·fitnyc.suny.edulmuseum Are My Paint," Linda Friedman 2006: "The Dance of Pattern," tra­ ditional textiles. Nov. 14-May 26, NEBRASKA Schmidt. Museum of American www.quiltandtextilemuseum.com 2006: "A Terrible Beauty," instal­ Robert Hillestad Textiles Illustration, the Society of lation by Jennifer Angus. www. Gallery, University of Nebraska, Illustrators, New York. Oct. 5-29: Woven Fiber Art House, West museumfortextiles.on. ca Lincoln. To Sep. 30: "Nancy "Uncommon Threads: Stitched Chester. Sep. 23-Nov. 5: "Mary Koenigsberg: Lines and Shadows" Artwork by Margaret Cusack," a Zicafoose." www.wovengallery.com Musee d'art de Joliette. Sep. and "Lewis Knauss: Ledgers." retrospective of Cusack's stitched 23-Nov. 20: Naomi London and Nov. 7-Dec. 2: "Barbara Lee Smith" illustrations. Josee Fafard. www.musee.joliette.org RHODE ISLAND and "Mapping the Mystery." www.sodetyillustrators.org TEL 402/ 472-2911. RISD Museum, Providence. ENGLAND http://textilegallery.unl.edu. Museum of Art & Design, To Oct. 15: "Bandani to Batik: Central St. Martins College of New York. Sep. 22-Jan. 15,2006: Resist-Dyed Textiles from Asia." Art and Design, London. Oct. Museum of Nebraska History. "Changing Hands: Art Without Oct. 21-Jan. 16, 2006: "The 18-Nov. 18: "Fashion's Memory: To Apr. 30, 2006: "Patchwork Reservation 2." Native American Needle's Excellence: Ottoman From Peasant Art to Wearable Lives." TEL 402/472-6301. art. www.madmuseum.org Embroideries." www.risd.edu Art" traces the roots of fashion and wearable art to multi-cul­ NEW MEXICO Soho20 Chelsea, New York. Sep. TENNESSEE tural sources. Curated by Mary 8-0ct. I: 'Transmissions," works Fannington Museum. To Dec., Knoxville Museum of Art. Schoeser and Jo Ann Stabb. 31 : "Poland's Woven Masterworks by Desiree Koslin. Oct. 21-Jan. 29: "Design Lab: Lis TEL 2121226-4167. of Wool in America." 300 years Collins." www.hnoxart.com Linda Wrigglesworth, London. of Polish weaving. Nov. 3-11 : "Immortality: Asian Handweaving Museum & Arts TEL 505/566-229\. WASHINGTON Art in London." Images of the Center, Clayton. To Oct. 30: "Art Immortals and their magical realm, Rugs: The 'Art' of Playing Cards." La Conner. Quilt Museum. Gerald Peters Gallery, Santa Fe. and the symbols of longevity in To Oct. I: "Rebecca Bluestone: Juried exhibition of hooked rugs. To Dec. 31: "Dear Jane Quilts." [email protected] the textile art of the Qing period The Divine Proportion." 0644-1911). www.gpgallery.com OHIO lindawrigglesworth.com WISCONSIN Kent State University Museum. NEWYORK To Oct. 16: "Yves Saint Laurent." Elvehjem Art Museum, Madison. Victoria & Albert Museum, Cooper-Hewitt National Design To Dec. 31: "Allegory and Symbol: Oct. 6-Dec. 31 : Dual Vision, 98 London. To Jan. 8,2006: Museum, New York. To Oct. 23: Chinese Robes in the Kent State contemporary fiber artworks Concealed-Discovered-Revealed, a "Extreme Textiles: Designing for University Museum Collection." from the Chazen collection. TEL collaborative partnership between High Performance." Oct. 7-May 7, To Feb. 19,2006: "The Right 608/263-2246. tapestry weaver Sue Lawty and 2006: "Yinka Shonibare Selects: Chemistry: Colors in Fashion, the V&l\s textile collection. Works from the Permanent 1704-1918." To Mar. 12,2006: Gallery of Design, University www.vam.ac.uk Collection." Includes Shibonare's "Raiment for Receptions: A of Wisconsin-Madison. To Sep. 25: "Stitching History: Patchwork site-specific pieces using his con­ Japanese Bride's Last Furisode." GERMANY temporary pseudo-African batik Nov. 17-Apr. 23, 2006: "Chado Quilts by Africans (Siddis) in Museum of East Asian Art, textiles. Dec. 9-Mar. 26, 2006: Ralph Rucci." TEL 330/672-3450. India." Oct. 1-30: "The Weavings Cologne. Oct IS-Jan. IS, 2006: "Fashion in Colors," more than www.hent.edulmuseum of War: Creating the Fabrics of "Classical Chinese Carpets 1400- sixty historic and contemporary Memory." 1750." examples drawn from the Kyoto Ohio Craft Museum, Columbus. www.designgallery.wisc.edu Costume Institute's collection To Oct. 30: "Bead International: A SWITZERLAND explore color as a design element. Bevy of Beads." www.ohiocraft.org TEL 212/849-8400. Abegg-Stiftung, Bern. To Nov. www.cooperhewitt.org 13: "Princely Interiors: Furnishing Textiles of the 18th Century." www.abegg-stiftung.ch

FALL 2005 17 Virtual Seminars, Kathy Green's India Tours, Nov. 2005. "India: Northern Highlights" www.albersfoundation.org Workshops with Kathy Green. Visit markets, museums, historic and sacred This website includes a gallery of Eastern Michigan University, sites. See block printing, paper­ the work of Anni and Josef Albers. Ypsilanti, Michigan. Nov. 5-6: making, and embroidery. In Bhuj, Photoshop for Jacquard Design visit the Kala Raksha Trust. Jan. www.americantapestryalliance.com and Weaving. Workshop taught by 3-28, 2006: "Colours of South On the home page, click on Vibeke Vestby of Digital Weaving India." Travel with Lesley Robin 'finding Home." ATA's first on-line Norway. Information: Patricia to see cultural diversities, textile tapestry exhibit features tapestry­ Williams, [email protected] woven post cards. traditions, architectural sites and dramatic landscapes. Meet design­ American Research Center www./iberscene.com ers, see textile projects, and learn Sep. 15-17. 13TH EUROPEAN in Egypt/Northern California Sep. IS-Dec. I: ''The Last Laugh," about ayurveda, the traditional TEXTILE NETWORK CONFERENCE, Chapter, University of California, works by Reina Mia Brill, Rachel India herbal medicine. Izmir, Turkey. Keynote: Jack Lenor Berkeley. Nov. 20: ''The Coptic Beth Egenhoefer, John Jensen, Kathy Green Larsen. Pre-conference workshops, Tapestry Albums and the Archae­ 35 John Lyons Road post-conference tours. Maddi Nicholson, and Mary ologist of Antinoe, Albert Gayet," Markham, ON Canada L3P 3H3 www.etn-net.orgletnl21Iae.htm Cozens Walker. Nancy Arthur Hoskins. TEL 905/471-7381 FAX 905/471-0284 Oct. 21-22. NEEDLES AND International Conservation Lectures [email protected] HAYSTACKS : PASTORAL IMAGERY IN Seminars for conservators AMERICAN NEEDLEWORK, Winter­ Fiber Art Center, Amherst, MA. and curators, Barcelona, Spain. Art Workshops in Guatemala. thur's Needlework Conference Sep. 8: "Asian Bamboo Basketry," Nov. 16-18: Fibre identification Mar. 8-18, 2006: Textile Tour to 2005, Winterthur, Delaware. Nancy Moore Bess. Oct 6: workshop: natural and synthetic. Lake Atitlan Villages with Karen Lectures, collection tours, and "Shibori," Barbara Goldberg. Dec. 1-2 : Project management. Searle. www.artguat.org hands-on workshops. Some www./iberartcenter.com info@balaam-artcom of Winterthur's examples of American embroideries depicting Rubin Museum of Art, New York. Cooper Hewitt Museum, New Residencies scenes of idyllic country life will Sep. 17: "The Use and Re-use of York. Feb. 22, 2006: Collections be showcased in an exhibition in Chinese textiles in libet During Tour: Fashions at the Cooper New Delhi Residency conjunction with the conference. the 18th and 19th Centuries," Hewitt. www.cooperhewitt.org Announcing a privately-run TEL 800/448-3883. Gary Dickinson, Director and program to provide housing for www.winterthur.org Gallery Historian at Linda visiting artisans in New Delhi. Wrigglesworth Ltd., London. Tours The facility is for individuals/small groups working in various fields/ Oct. 21-23. JAPANESE STYLE AND Textile Museum of Canada, Textiles of Thailand and mediums who would like to be THE CULTURE OF CLOTH, The Toronto, Ontario. Sep. 14: Sarah Laos. Oct. 15-29. Visit weav- based in Delhi for a while and Textile Museum, Washington, DC. Quinton, Curator of "Fassett!: ers, galleries, collections and explore possibilities for various This symposium complements the Patchwork Quilts by Kaffe Fassett," museums in Chiang Mai, Luang activities in their creative journey.. exhibition, "Rozome Masters of leads a talk and tour, "Putting Prabang, Vientiane and Bangkok. For further information on this Japan." Spakers include its cura­ the Hand Back in our Lives: Information: Esprit Travel & Tours opportunity contact tor, Betsy Sterling Benjamin. TEL Handwork, DIY Kits and Nostalgia tel 800/ 377-7481. www.esprit­ Priya Ravish Mehra 220/ 667-0441 x64. in the 21 st Century." travel.com 14, Sultanpur Estate, Mandi Road www.te.xtilemuseum.ca www.textilemuseum.orglsymposium Mehrauli, New Delhi Textile Odyssey Tour to 110030 INDIA Vesterheim Norwegian­ Oct. 21-23. NORWEGIAN WOVEN Vietnam and Laos Nov. 3-21, [email protected] American Museum, Decorah, TEXTILES, Vesterheim Norwegian­ led by Mary Connors. Visit several Iowa. Oct. 10: "A Common American Museum, Decorah, IA. highlands ethnic groups-Tai weav­ Thread: Weaving Traditions in International symposium includes ers, Yao-Mien embroiderers, and Note: Calendar submissions are Norway and Sweden," Katherine invited speakers, juried papers, Hmong applique and batik arti­ included on a space-available basis. Larsen. Oct. 21 : "Symbols Used workshops, and exhibitions of sans. Also visit craft workshops in Preference is given to events involving in Traditional Norwegian Weaving Luang Prabang and Vientiane to TSA members. historic and contemporary weav­ and Knitting," Annemor Sundbo. participate in a weaving or a dye­ ing. Speakers: Marta KlelVe Juuhl, Nov. 13 : "Weaving Bewitchment: ing workshop. Information: Norway (Voss rya); Ellen Kjellmo, Gerhard Munthe's Folk-Tale Serena Lee Harrington Norway (textiles from the north Tapestries," Laurann Gilbertson 854 34th Ave coast>; Annemor Sundbl2l, Norway and Kathleen Sokker. San Francisco, CA (symbols in knitting and weaving). TEL 563/ 382-9681. www.vesterheim.org TEL 415/666-3636 Invited Presenters: Therese Hauger, [email protected]. Norway (20th-century applied-art textiles); Margaret Hayford O'Leary, US (folk music inspirations for tap­ estry designer Gerhard Munthe). Laurann Gilbertson Textile Curator

18 TSA NEWSLETTER Vesterheim Museum Applicants should have DEC. 1,2005: ASSISTANT TEL 563/382-9681 interpersonal skills, organizational PROFESSOR, Textiles, Fashion [email protected] skills, and demonstrated skills in Merchandising & Design. This is www.vesterheim.org organizational management. an academic year, tenure-track Knowledge of bookkeeping and position with a preferred starting Nov. 8-12. RECOVERING THE balance sheets, understanding of date of 7/1/06. Required: Earned PAST: THE CONSERVATION databases, editing and writing doctorate with at least one OF ARCHEOLOGICAL AND skills, and four-year university advanced degree in textiles and ETHNOGRAPHIC TEXTILES, Mexico degree are required. Knowledge clothing (preference given to City, Mexico. 5th Biennial North of the textile and apparel applicants with two or more American Textiles Conservation academic discipline, experience degrees in textiles and clothing); Conference. Keynote Speaker: Metropolitan Museum in conference planning, experi­ evidence of effective teaching; Mary Frame. Pre-conference of Art Fellowships ence as a university faculty ability to teach introductory workshops and cultural tours to textile products course, plus one Coyocan, Mexico City muse­ 2006-2007 member, and commitment to a or more of the following: socio­ ums, and Teotihuacan are avail­ global perspective are preferred. cultural aspects of dress, apparel able. Registration information: Salary and time required are production, forecasting, and [email protected], Nov. 4, 2005: Art History commensurate with applicant's interior design; demonstrated www.natcc.gob.mx Jan. 6, 2006: Conservation background and level of The Met invites applications to its experience ability for scholarly productivity; strong classroom and interper­ Apr. 20-23, 2006. ACOR 8 programs in Conservation and The ITAA is a professional, sonal communication skills; ability Eighth American Conference Art History for the period educational association of to develop ties with domestic and on Oriental Rugs, Boston, MA. between Sep. 1,2006 and Aug. approximately 700 scholars, Programs, exhibitions, workshops, 31 , 2007. Ayers describing each educators, and students in the international business community. demonstrations and Dealers' Row program are available textile, apparel, and merchandis­ Preference given to applicants Many opportunities to educate Marcie Karp ing disciplines. The association with interest and/or experience the mind and delight the eye with Fellowship Program hosts an annual conference and in developing international education opportunities. Visit our oriental rugs and textiles. The Metropolitan Museum publishes a quarterly journal, website at http://www.uri.edu/ www.acor-lUgs.org of Art Clothing and Textiles Research humanJesources for additional 1000 Fifth Avenue Journal. information. Jun. 25-Jul. 1, 2006: New York NY 10028-0198 Applications will be Review of applications will CONVERGENCE 2006, Grand considered from Oct. 15 until the begin 12/ 1/05 and continue until Rapids MI, intemational biennial position is filled. Please provide the position is filled. Submit (no fiber arts conference, workshops, electronic submission in PDF and exbibits sponsored by the e-mails or faxes, please) a letter format: letter of application Handweavers Guild of America. of application, current curriculum describing expertise and strengths www.weavespindye.org vitae, names of three references, related to the aspects of the job and official transcripts to: Linda described above, vita, and three M. Welters letters of recommendation with Search Chair TSA Newsletter contact information (i.e., title, (Req *' 011165) EDITOR/LAYOUT Karen Searle mailing address, email, phone University of Rhode Island number) for each reference. Send COpy EDITOR Susan Ward p.o. Box G application materials to: CALENDAR EDITOR Rebecca Oct. 15, 2005: ITAA ExECUTIVE Kingston, RI 02881 Dr. Molly Eckman DIRECTOR. Applications are Klassen ITAA Search Committee Chair invited for the part-time position URI is an AAlEEO employer and [email protected] Wtnter Issue Deadline: of Executive Director of the values diversity and also is an International Textile and Apparel NSF ADVANCE institutional Nov. 30, 2005 Applicants may learn more about Association

FALL 2005 19 Downtown Toronto as seen from the Island docks-just one of the breathtaking views awaiting participants in TSA's Tenth Biennial Symposium in Toronto, October 11-14, 2006. See page 2 for details. Photo courtesy of Toronto Tourism.

TSA Newsletter Nonprofit Org. P.O. Box 70 U. S. Postage Earleville. MD 21919-0070 PAID Minneapolis. MN Change Service Requested Permit No. 28534

DATED MATERIAL

Photographic details courtesy of Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology, Brown University Estate of Lillian Elliott RlsDMuseum