a 540602 FM.qxd 11/4/03 9:54 AM Page i Toronto 2004 by Hilary Davidson Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Comprehensive and includes information about the many festivals—from beer to literature—that Toronto hosts each year.” —The Washington Post a 540602 FM.qxd 11/4/03 9:54 AM Page ii About the Author Toronto native Hilary Davidson now calls New York City home, thanks to her per- suasive Manhattan-born husband, Daniel. She is a contributing editor at Chatelaine magazine and writes for Martha Stewart Weddings, Executive Traveler, Wedding Bells, Glow, Discover, and Pages. She is also a contributor to Frommer’s Canada. She can be reached at [email protected]. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per- mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4060-2 ISSN 1047-7853 Editor: Myka Carroll Production Editor: Bethany André Cartographer: John Decamillis Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: A view of Toronto’s skyline and harbor Back cover photo: Hockey Hall of Fame statue For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. 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Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 a 540602 FM.qxd 11/4/03 9:54 AM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Toronto 1 1 The Best of Toronto 3 1 Frommer’s Favorite Toronto 3 Best Dining Bets . .8 Experiences . .3 The Best of Toronto Online . .9 2 Best Hotel Bets . .7 2 Planning Your Trip to Toronto 12 1 Visitor Information . .12 7 Specialized Travel Resources . .25 2 Entry Requirements & Wedded Bliss for Gay & Customs . .13 Lesbian Couples . .27 3 Money . .14 8 Planning Your Trip Online . .28 The Canadian Dollar, the U.S. Dollar 9 The 21st-Century Traveler . .30 & the British Pound . .15 Frommers.com: The Complete What Things Cost in Toronto . .17 Travel Resource . .30 4 When to Go . .18 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . .32 Toronto Calendar of Events . .18 10 Getting There . .33 Jump Up! . .22 11 Packages for the Independent 5 Travel Insurance . .23 Traveler . .37 6 Health . .24 12 Tips on Accommodations . .38 The SARS Story . .25 13 Recommended Reading . .39 3 Getting to Know Toronto 40 1 Orientation . .40 2 Getting Around . .46 Underground Toronto . .44 Fast Facts: Toronto . .50 The Neighborhoods in Brief . .44 4 Where to Stay 54 1 Downtown West . .55 4 Uptown . .71 2 Downtown East . .65 5 The East End . .71 Family-Friendly Hotels . .66 6 At the Airport . .72 3 Midtown West . .68 a 540602 FM.qxd 11/4/03 9:54 AM Page iv iv CONTENTS 5 Where to Dine 75 1 Restaurants by Cuisine . .80 5 The East End . .108 2 Downtown West . .84 Sleepless in Toronto: What to Do Family-Friendly Restaurants . .93 When the Midnight Munchies Attack . .109 3 Downtown East . .96 6 Uptown . .110 Savory Surfing . .98 Vegetarian Delights . .114 4 Midtown West . .100 7 North of the City . .115 Great Greasy Spoons . .107 6 What to See & Do 117 Suggested Itineraries . .117 5 Historic Buildings . .138 1 The Top Attractions . .118 6 For Sports Fans . .140 Great Toronto Vistas . .126 7 Markets . .141 Where to Eat When You’re 8 Parks, Gardens & Going to . .130 Cemeteries . .141 2 More Museums . .131 9 Especially for Kids . .142 Pssst . Want in 10 Organized Tours . .144 on a Secret? . .132 11 Outdoor Activities . .146 3 Exploring the Spas & the City . .148 Neighborhoods . .133 12 Spectator Sports . .151 4 Architectural Highlights . .135 7 City Strolls 153 Walking Tour 1: Chinatown Walking Tour 3: The Financial & Kensington Market . .153 District . .160 Walking Tour 2: Walking Tour 4: St. Lawrence Harbourfront . .158 & Downtown East . .166 8 Shopping 171 1 The Shopping Scene . .171 The Best Bargains . .180 2 Great Shopping Areas . .171 Same Time Next Year . .191 3 Shopping A to Z . .172 9 Toronto After Dark 196 1 The Performing Arts . .196 4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene . .214 2 The Club & Music Scene . .206 5 Cinemas & Movie Houses . .215 3 The Bar Scene . .210 6 Coffeehouses . .215 Cueing Up . .210 Sweet Treats: Toronto’s Hotel Bars . .213 Dessert Cafes . .216 a 540602 FM.qxd 11/4/03 9:54 AM Page v CONTENTS v 10 Side Trips from Toronto 218 1 Stratford . .218 Niagara Parkway Commission 2 Niagara-on-the-Lake & Restaurants . .240 Niagara Falls . .227 3 The Muskoka Lakes . .240 Touring Niagara-on-the-Lake Rest, Relax, Recharge . .247 Wineries . .228 4 Hamilton . .248 A Family Adventure . .238 Appendix: Toronto in Depth 252 1 History 101 . .252 2 Toronto Today . .260 Dateline . .252 Index 261 General Index . .261 Restaurant Index . .271 Accommodations Index . .271 a 540602 FM.qxd 11/4/03 9:54 AM Page vi List of Maps Metropolitan Toronto 4 Walking Tour 2: Harbourfront 160 Underground Toronto 42 Walking Tour 3: The Financial The TTC Subway System 47 District 163 Where to Stay in Downtown Walking Tour 4: St. Lawrence & West 57 Downtown East 167 Where to Stay in Downtown Midtown Shopping: Bloor/ East 59 Yorkville 173 Where to Stay in Midtown & Downtown Shopping: Queen Street Uptown 60 West & West Queen West 174 Where to Dine in Downtown 76 Downtown After Dark 198 Where to Dine in Midtown West & After Dark from Chinatown to Uptown 78 Bloor Street 201 Where to Dine from Chinatown to Side Trips from Toronto 219 Bloor Street 81 Stratford 221 What to See & Do in Niagara-on-the-Lake 229 Downtown 120 Niagara Falls 239 What to See & Do in The Muskoka Lakes Region 241 Midtown 122 Hamilton 249 Walking Tour 1: Chinatown & Kensington Market 155 a 540602 FM.qxd 11/4/03 9:54 AM Page vii Acknowledgments Many, many thanks to my editor, Myka Carroll, whose talent, wit, and good sense made working on this book a pleasure. Thanks are also owed to the rest of the Frommer’s team, who worked their usual magic in transforming a manuscript into a book. I am also grate- ful to my mother, Sheila Davidson, who is always ready to help and yet never makes me feel guilty for taking advantage of her highly skilled—yet unpaid—labor. Finally, I owe a heartfelt thanks to my husband, Dan, whose sense of humor and tireless enthusiasm car- ried me throughout this project. An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Toronto 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Canada Frommer’s Montréal & Quebec City Frommer’s Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island Frommer’s Ottawa with Kids Frommer’s Toronto with Kids a 540602 FM.qxd 11/4/03 9:54 AM Page viii Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional).