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The Aesthetics of Mainstream Androgyny
The Aesthetics of Mainstream Androgyny: A Feminist Analysis of a Fashion Trend Rosa Crepax Goldsmiths, University of London Thesis submitted for the degree of Ph.D. in Sociology May 2016 1 I confirm that the work presented in this thesis is my own. Rosa Crepax Acknowledgements I would like to thank Bev Skeggs for making me fall in love with sociology as an undergraduate student, for supervising my MA dissertation and encouraging me to pursue a PhD. For her illuminating guidance over the years, her infectious enthusiasm and the constant inspiration. Beckie Coleman for her ongoing intellectual and moral support, all the suggestions, advice and the many invaluable insights. Nirmal Puwar, my upgrade examiner, for the helpful feedback. All the women who participated in my fieldwork for their time, patience and interest. Francesca Mazzucchi for joining me during my fieldwork and helping me shape my methodology. Silvia Pezzati for always providing me with sunshine. Laura Martinelli for always being there when I needed, and Martina Galli, Laura Satta and Miriam Barbato for their friendship, despite the distance. My family, and, in particular, my mum for the support and the unpaid editorial services. And finally, Goldsmiths and everyone I met there for creating an engaging and stimulating environment. Thank you. Abstract Since 2010, androgyny has entered the mainstream to become one of the most widespread trends in Western fashion. Contemporary androgynous fashion is generally regarded as giving a new positive visibility to alternative identities, and signalling their wider acceptance. But what is its significance for our understanding of gender relations and living configurations of gender and sexuality? And how does it affect ordinary people's relationship with style in everyday life? Combining feminist theory and an aesthetics that contrasts Kantian notions of beauty to bridge matters of ideology and affect, my research investigates the sociological implications of this phenomenon. -
Marcas E Editoriais De Moda Em Diferentes Nichos De Revistas Especializadas
UNIVERSIDADE DA BEIRA INTERIOR Engenharia Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas O caso Vogue, i-D e Dazed & Confused Joana Miguel Ramires Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Design de Moda (2º ciclo de estudos) Orientador: Prof. Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira Covilhã, Outubro de 2012 Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas II Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas Agradecimentos Ao longo do percurso que resultou na realização deste trabalho, foram várias as pessoas que ajudaram a desenvolve-lo e que disponibilizaram o seu apoio e amizade. Desta forma, o primeiro agradecimento vai para a orientadora, Professora Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira, que desde o início foi incansável. Agradeço-lhe pela disponibilidade, compreensão, por me ter guiado da melhor forma por entre todas as dúvidas e problemas que foram surgindo, e por fim, pela força de vontade e entusiamo que me transmitiu. A todos os técnicos e colaboradores dos laboratórios e ateliês do departamento de engenharia têxtil da Universidade da Beira Interior agradeço o seu apoio e os ensinamentos transmitidos ao longo da minha vida académica. Agradeço em especial á D. Lucinda pela sua amizade, e pelo seu apoio constante ao longo destes anos. Às duas pessoas mais importantes da minha vida, pai e mãe agradeço do fundo do coração por todo o amor, carinho, compreensão, e por todos os sacrifícios que fizeram, de modo a me permitirem chegar ao final de mais esta etapa de estudos. Aos meus avós e restante família que também têm sido um pilar fundamental na minha vida a todos os níveis, os meus sinceros agradecimentos. -
Gaucho Cool for Their Proenza Schouler Collection, Sliced with Fascinating Fabric Play and a Vaguely Seventies Sophistication
ROUND SQUEEZE HOME TWO PLAY AGAIN OSCAR DE LA RENTA ART BASEL MIAMI GIAMBATTISTA DOES ANOTHER HITS ITS HIGH VALLI REVEALS COLLECTION FOR NOTE WITH PACKED PLANS TO OPEN A THE OUTNET. PARTIES GALORE. MILAN FLAGSHIP. PAGE 11 PAGE 10 PAGE 8 SPINNING OFF LANDS’ END Lampert’s Sears: An Unwinding Tale By VICKI M. YOUNG TIME APPEARS to be running out for Edward S. Lampert. Lampert is chairman and chief executive of- ficer of Sears Holding Corp. and chairman of ESL Investments, which holds a 48.4 percent stake in MONDAY, DECEMBER 9, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Sears. Last week he faced a blow when Goldman WWD Sachs pulled $3.5 billion out of ESL, cutting the funds ESL has under management by more than 60 percent and, as a result, reducing his stake in Sears to below 50 percent since part of the payout was in Sears stock. On Friday, Lampert had to once again shuffle Sears’ assets in order to bolster the ailing retailer’s balance sheet. The hedge fund manager is spinning off Lands’ End, making that division a public company once again. [For more on the spin-off, see sidebar, page 7]. No word yet on the future of Sears Auto Center busi- ness, which the company has been considering divest- ing to raise further funds to keep Sears operating. Even after the latest spin-off, Lampert will still have 48.4 percent of Lands’ End and there is little doubt he and his investors have profited handsomely Gaucho from the Sears investment. -
Michael on the Mainland
CALVIN’S SPEAKING COUPLE SUKI SUKI CHRISTY TURLINGTON WATERHOUSE BURNS AND HUSBAND TALKS ABOUT ED BURNS ARE FEATURED MODELING, TALKING ABOUT MOM IN THE NEW AD PARTYING DESIGNERS REVEAL THEIR FAVORITE CAMPAIGN FOR CALVIN AND MORE. MEMORIES OF THEIR MOTHERS. PAGE 13 KLEIN ETERNITY. PAGE 9 PAGE 14 WWDFRIDAY, MAY 9, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY RETAIL’S MIXED MESSAGE Comps Rise Sharply But Picture Murky Even so, the RetailNext study By ARNOLD J. KARR also offered a ray of hope. Chitra and EVAN CLARK Balasubramanian, head of busi- ness analytics at RetailNext, said HIT AND MISS. shoppers were spending more That seems to be the retail once they opened their wallets. trend these days as April compa- The average transaction value rable-store sales figures released rose 2.8 percent in April and sales Thursday showed a strong uptick per shopper inched up 0.5 percent. while other data sounded a more Taking March and April togeth- bearish note. er to eliminate any impact from An exclusive look at a Easter’s later timing versus last RetailNext study of point-of-sale year, RetailNext found that sales and customer traffic data from for the two months fell 6.9 percent more than 14 million shopping as traffic dipped 5 percent. trips around the country found that “It’s not so great on one hand sales and traffic at apparel and ac- that traffic is down, but on the cessories retailers fell 2.1 percent other hand, it’s a pretty good sign last month while the number of that those who are making it into transactions declined 4.5 percent. -
Presse Avril 2016
Communiqué de presse Avril 2016 CASTING ELITE MODEL LOOK ANTILLES-GUYANE 2016: Samedi 30 avril au CC CARREFOUR MATOURY Pour la 33ème année consécutive, Elite organise le plus prestigieux concours international de mannequins et offre à des milliers de jeunes filles âgées de 14 à 22 ans et mesurant plus d’1m72, l'opportunité de réaliser leur rêve et de suivre les traces de top models tels que Cindy Crawford, Stéphanie Seymour, Gisèle Bundchen, Sigrid Agren, Cora Emmanuel... Un tremplin unique pour intégrer l'univers de la mode… L'équipe Elite Model Look Antilles-Guyane sera présente : - Samedi 30 avril au CARREFOUR MATOURY Les inscriptions seront ouvertes sur place de 10h à 19h mais il est également possible de se pré-inscrire dès à présent sur www.elitemodellook.com/gp ou bien de récupérer sa fiche casting dans l’une des boutiques du centre commercial. Les finalistes seront choisies sur la base de leurs qualités photogéniques, de leur personnalité et de leur beauté naturelle mais également en fonction de leur potentiel à correspondre à la tendance actuelle. Informations pratiques : - Concours réservé aux jeunes filles de 14 à 22 ans, mesurant plus d’1m72 - Documents à apporter le jour du casting : une autorisation parentale ou la présence d’un parent pour les mineures, une photo portrait et une photo en pied. - Conseils : être la plus naturelle possible, ne pas mettre de maquillage et porter des vêtements près du corps - Apporter un maillot de bain et une paire de chaussures à talons fins. - Renseignements au 0690 69 08 81 ou sur le site www.elitemodellook.com/gp Pour suivre toute notre actualité, rejoignez-nous sur Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/elitemodellookantillesguyane. -
Siren Song Think Greta Garbo
WWDMILESTONESSECTION II Valentino at 50 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 Siren Song Think Greta Garbo. Not the reclusive one but the vamp version, camera-ready in spring’s high-glam lingerie looks. Here, Josie Natori’s embroidered silk satin slipgown under Dennis Basso’s nylon organza and chinchilla bed jacket. Badgley Mischka earrings; Barbara Flood’s Closet belt. For more, see pages 6 and 7. PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN Karstadt Keeps LIQUIDITY ISSUES Pushing Ahead HMX Under Pressure, By MELISSA DRIER Decision Expected Soon BERLIN — It’s action time at Karstadt. A triple-header of major store events has seen fielding unsolicited offers from po- the German department store chain taking rapid By JEAN E. PALMIERI tential bidders. Interested buyers in- strides towards modernizing and differentiating and VICKI M. YOUNG clude two brand management firms, its business as outlined in the “Karstadt 2015” Authentic Brands Group and Iconix strategic plan. Reflecting the group’s multitiered THE OTHER SHOE is about to drop for Brand Group, and private equity firm structure, the moves have been made on both HMX Group. Bluestar Alliance. upper and midmarket levels. The consistent mes- The company is running out of time In a bankruptcy scenario, sources sage, however, has been one of trading up and, to as liquidity constraints are forcing it to said one of those bidders would be some extent, cleaning out. decide as soon as this week whether to chosen as the “stalking horse” for Prior to the grand opening of KaDeWe’s new sell the firm or file for bankruptcy court the firm’s intellectual property as- Luxury Boulevard, the store’s revamped beauty protection. -
VALENTINO and GIAMMETTI, FIVE YEARS LATER Valentino at 50 a HALF-CENTURY of GRACE and GLAMOUR
II II SECTION WWDMILESTONESSECTION ■ STEFANO SASSI BUILDS FOR THE FUTURE ■ CHIURI & PICCIOLI: CARRYING THE DESIGN MANTLE ■ VALENTINO AND GIAMMETTI, FIVE YEARS LATER Valentino at 50 A HALF-CENTURY OF GRACE AND GLAMOUR. Spring 2013 ready-to-wear. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE 2 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 SECTION II WWD.COM WWD MILESTONES 1994 The designer creates costumes for “The Dream of Valentino,” an opera about silent-movie star Rudolph Valentino. Fabulous 50 1995 More than 30 years after his first show The fashion house’s storied history. Compiled by Fabiana Repaci at the Pitti Palace, Valentino returns to Florence and shows at the Stazione Leopolda. The city’s mayor awards him a 1932 fall couture collection at New York’s special prize for Art in Fashion. Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani is Metropolitan Museum of Art. Q The house licenses Warnaco for lingerie. born on May 11 in Voghera, in Northern Q Valentino shows in Tokyo for the first Italy, to Mauro Garavani, director of an time. 1996 electrical supply business, and Teresa de The designer receives the distinction of Biaggi. 1983 Cavaliere del Lavoro. Maria Grazia The Italian Olympic Committee selects Chiuri and 1959 Valentino to design uniforms for the 1984 1997 Pierpaolo Valentino’s first couture studio opens at 11 Summer Games in Los Angeles. Launch of Very Valentino fragrance; a Piccioli, 2012. Via Condotti in Rome. A second follows on men’s version follows in 1999. Via Sant’Andrea in 1965. 1985 Q Debut of the new sportswear line V Zone. Q In January, Valentino holds his last The fragrance Valentino di Valentino couture show at the Musée Rodin in Paris, 1960 launches. -
Large Print Guide
Large Print Guide You can download this document from www.manchesterartgallery.org Sponsored by While principally a fashion magazine, Vogue has never been just that. Since its first issue in 1916, it has assumed a central role on the cultural stage with a history spanning the most inventive decades in fashion and taste, and in the arts and society. It has reflected events shaping the nation and Vogue 100: A Century of Style has been organised by the world, while setting the agenda for style and fashion. the National Portrait Gallery, London in collaboration with Tracing the work of era-defining photographers, models, British Vogue as part of the magazine’s centenary celebrations. writers and designers, this exhibition moves through time from the most recent versions of Vogue back to the beginning of it all... 24 June – 30 October Free entrance A free audio guide is available at: bit.ly/vogue100audio Entrance wall: The publication Vogue 100: A Century of Style and a selection ‘Mighty Aphrodite’ Kate Moss of Vogue inspired merchandise is available in the Gallery Shop by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, June 2012 on the ground floor. For Vogue’s Olympics issue, Versace’s body-sculpting superwoman suit demanded ‘an epic pose and a spotlight’. Archival C-type print Photography is not permitted in this exhibition Courtesy of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott Introduction — 3 FILM ROOM THE FUTURE OF FASHION Alexa Chung Drawn from the following films: dir. Jim Demuth, September 2015 OUCH! THAT’S BIG Anna Ewers HEAT WAVE Damaris Goddrie and Frederikke Sofie dir. -
RM[QMˇTrendy
NR 2 (49) 2015 CH KLIF GDYNIA nr 2 (44) jesień 2015 DOM MODY KLIF WARSZAWA RM[QMˇTrendy 3,}.1,1,(32.251, &$5$'(/(9,1*1( 3+$55(//:,//,$06 t urodzinowela atrakcje .:(67,21$5,86=352-(.7$17$ 52%(57.83,6=19 SPIS TREŚCI 16 Magazyn Mody 20 .OLI 26 26 TEMAT NUMERU 3LÚNQLQLHSRNRUQL– Cara Delevingne i Pharrell Williams ..........................................................................16 MODA Trendy w modzie – dla niej ............................................24 6LïDV]PDUDJGX– klejnoty mody .........................26 'UXJDVNöUD ..........................................................................................28 2JURGXF]DU .......................................................................................30 Forma i styl ..........................................................................................31 24 60 Kulisy sesji..............................................................................................50 7UHQG\PÚVNLH ...................................................................................56 7\JU\VLHRNR– klejnoty mody ...............................60 24 &]DUQRQDELDï\P .....................................................................62 Jak malowany – męskie dodatki ........................66 3RPDOXMĂZLDW– mała moda ......................................72 SESJA CO NOWEGO Przytul mnie .......................................................................................38 19 lat Klifu – urodzinowe atrakcje ...........................7 Nowe marki – premiery .................................................................8 -
Di Tory Burch
MF fashion il primo quotidiano della moda e del lusso Anno XXX n. 030 Direttore ed editore Paolo Panerai - Direttore Stefano Roncato martedì 12 febbraio 2019 MF fashion I 12.02.19 ONLINE SU MFFASHION.COM LE GALLERY FOTOGRAFICHE DELLE COLLEZIONI F-W 2019/20 IL FINALE DELLA SFILATA TORY BURCH AUTUNNO-INVERNO 2019/20 TORY IL FINALE DELLA SFILATA NNelel ccollegeollege aartsyrtsy ddii TToryory BBurchurch LLaa sstilistatilista aamericanamericana rrivisitaivisita i ggrandirandi cclassicilassici ddelel gguardarobauardaroba ggrazierazie a eeccentriciccentrici aaccostamenticcostamenti ddii sstampetampe e mmaterialiateriali cchehe ccompongonoompongono uunn mmix&matchix&match ffantasiosoantasioso ««MiMi ppiacevaiaceva ll’idea’idea ddii ccrearereare uunana ccommistioneommistione ddii rriferimenti»,iferimenti», hhaa rraccontatoaccontato a MMFFFF e vetrate del Pier 17, proprio accanto alla ri- tezza nel 1933, che venne fondato il Black Mountain culturale nel Paese. «Mi piaceva l’idea di questa com- qualificata area di Seaport, si aprono sulla College, un istituto noto per il suo approccio anti- mistione di riferimenti artistici, che ho tradotto in una vista dei grattacieli di New York. Uno sfondo conformista all’istruzione e per avere accolto illustri collezione nata dalla rivisitazione di grandi classici», Lilluminato da una luce tersa abbraccia le usci- studenti tra cui John Cage, Robert Rauschenberg o ha raccontato la designer statunitense. A incedere te delle collezione immaginata da Tory Burch per il Allen Ginsberg. Esponenti dell’arte, della musica, illuminati da un cielo limpido invernale sono capi dal- prossimo inverno, che affonda le radici nella cultura della danza, della scrittura e della cultura moder- le silhouette lineari tra pantaloni sartoriali e cappotti americana degli anni 30. È in quel periodo, per l’esat- na negli States che costituirono una sorta di élite continua a pag. -
Moda Ilustrada Pinturas, Croquis, Estampas E Desenhos Que Contam a Evolução Do Vestuário No Brasil
MODA ILUSTRADA PINTURAS, CROQUIS, ESTAMPAS E DESENHOS QUE CONTAM A EVOLUÇÃO DO VESTUÁRIO NO BRASIL 1 PARTE 1 RAÍZES 2 MODA ILUSTRADA PINTURAS, CROQUIS, ESTAMPAS E DESENHOS QUE CONTAM A EVOLUÇÃO DO VESTUÁRIO NO BRASIL CONCEPÇÃO MARCEL MARIANO CURADORIA MARIA RITA ALONSO 1º EDIÇÃO SÃO PAULO - BRASIL 2018 MODA ILUSTRADA moda e a ilustração, historicamente, andam juntas. Os dese- A nhos – precursores da fotografia – trazem consigo a estética e os valores culturais de cada época, sendo de grande relevância artística e documental. Em um Brasil com forte influência europeia, a ilustração de moda teve seu início no século 16 com o registro das indumentárias, silhuetas, penteados, tecidos e acessórios. A partir de pesquisas em acervos de todo o país, o livro Moda Ilustrada apresenta ilus- trações que retratam a história da moda brasileira, representada por grandes – e inesquecíveis – nomes, como Debret, Alceu Pen- na, Conrado Segreto e Filipe Jardim. O apoio da Renner para a publicação deste livro é um incentivo à cultura brasileira, ao mesmo tempo que resgata imagens icô- nicas para que sejam lembradas, consultadas e admiradas em qualquer tempo. Uma ótima leitura! Luciane Franciscone Gerente Geral de Marketing Corporativo Lojas Renner S.A. VERSÃO CMYK PARTE 1 RAÍZES 6 Brasil tem pouca memória de moda, por isso a ideia de traçar a evolução do vestuá- O rio no país a partir de pinturas, croquis, ilustrações e estampas de grandes desenhis- tas pareceu uma forma autêntica de resgatar a origem do nosso jeito de se vestir. A ousa- dia e o ineditismo do projeto nos arrebataram instantaneamente, mas, para completar a tarefa de garimpar, selecionar e editar todas as imagens e informações que você tem em mãos agora, foram necessários onze meses de pesquisas, entrevistas, análises e curadoria. -
Photography Will Davidson MODEL Alessandra Ambrosio #35 02
01 Media Kit 2010 - 2011 PHOTOGRAPHY Will Davidson MODEL Alessandra Ambrosio #35 02 AUSTRALIAN STYLE. AN INTERNATIONAL FORCE. An internationally-minded brand dominating in print and online. Founded in 2004, RUSSH is a bi-monthly magazine showcasing innovators in fashion, art, music and film through originally produced editorial and photography. With this philosophy, RUSSH reflects the way intelligent women in Australia approach fashion and beauty to create their own distinctive style. RUSSH is Australian at heart, international in mindset. A dynamic voice in global publishing, we raise the bar through unique and all-original content. Aspirational yet accessible, we incorporate elements of luxury and the street to create our own unique and eclectic character. RUSSH breaks new ground with model-fronted covers that readers engage with, supporting both emerging and established brands and talent. RUSSH is style with substance and pays homage to its icons and references its influences, while championing the new and the next. PHOTOGRAPHY Will Davidson MODEL Ashley Smith #36 03 ORIGINAL. CREDIBLE. UNIQUE. RUSSH is a NICHE independent fashion magazine which its loyal readers DIVULGE, SAVOUR, COLLECT and ANTICIPATE bi-monthly. CIRCULAtion – 24,905 (four pER CENT POP) SOURCE: ABC, JANUARy 09 – June 09, RMR, SEPTEMBER 09 PHOTOGRAPHY Benny Horne MODEL Ali Stephens #30 04 OUR READER RUSSH reaches a core group of young women with disposable income at the ready. Our rapidly growing readership trusts RUSSH for its integrity, authenticity and market-leading reputation. RUSSH advertisers enjoy a genuine sales response to their appearance in the magazine from dedicated readers. Urban and career-focused, the RUSSH woman indulges in fashion, enjoys makeup and loves to complement her mood with different fragrances.