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Entrevista Selección Consumo Bdf Distribuidores SOLARES - CUIDADO CORPORAL - DEPILATORIOS FRAGANCIAS Magazine para los profesionales de la perfumería ABRIL 34 ENTREVISTA JOSÉ MARÍA PÉREZ DIESTRO SELECCIÓN INTERPARFUMS PERFUMES Y DISEÑO THIERRY MUGLER SHISEIDO L'ORÉAL CONSUMO BDF L'ORÉAL HENKEL DISTRIBUIDORES MARIONNAUD DOUGLAS EUROMADI RAMAS REPORTAJE TESTS EN ANIMALES FORMADORAS COTY PRESTIGE IBERIA COMUNICACIÓN LES EAUX DE ROCHAS CLARINS Magazine para los profesionales de la perfumería 05 Editorial 12 Selección 10 Entrevista José María Pérez Diestro, director general de BPI 16 Noticias Interparfums concluye 2012 con resultados récords Perfumes y Diseño presenta Rosa de Tous, una fragancia con mensaje Thierry Mugler abandona la dirección artística de sus fragancias Shiseido España nombra a Olga Rojo vicepresidenta L’Oréal calienta motores para conquistar a 250 millones de chinos 22 Inéditos 28 Mercados 28 Análisis: Solares 34 Análisis: Cuidado corporal 40 Perfiles: Depilatorios 42 Gran Consumo 42 Noticias Fallece el presidente honorífico de BDF Nueva dircom de L’Oréal España Henkel estrena en España el proyecto de investigación The ShopperLab 46 Inéditos 48 Distribuidores 48 El total look de Marionnaud 49 Douglas apuesta por el negro 50 Euromadi se incorpora a la tendencia del colorido low cost 52 Ramas, nicho natural 54 Reportaje Cosméticos sin ensayos en animales 56 Formadoras El equipo de formación de Coty Prestige Iberia da la clave de sus productos a la distribución 58 Comunicación 58 Les Eaux de Rochas, una historia apasionante 60 Issey Miyake, frutas de verano 61 Mochilas para el parque de Tous 62 Clarins reivindica el derecho a probar 64 Magia en los visuales de Halloween 65 Materias primas y packaging 56 66 Agenda :63(9,:*<0+(+6*69769(3+,703(;6906: FRAGANCIAS Magazine para los profesionales de la perfumería ABRIL 34 ENTREVISTA JOSÉ MARÍA PÉREZ DIESTRO SELECCIÓN INTERPARFUMS PERFUMES Y DISEÑO THIERRY MUGLER SHISEIDO L'ORÉAL CONSUMO BDF L'ORÉAL Nº 34 abril 2013 HENKEL editorial DISTRIBUIDORES MARIONNAUD DOUGLAS EUROMADI RAMAS REPORTAJE TESTS EN ANIMALES FORMADORAS COTY PRESTIGE IBERIA COMUNICACIÓN LES EAUX DE ROCHAS CLARINS HA HABIDO MOMENTOS DE MÁS Y MEJOR CONSENSO Director JAVIER PÉREZ GARCÍA Cuando las cosas van bien no hay problema, pero cuando las rotaciones [email protected] son bajas, los márgenes estrechos y la tesorería se resiente o grita de dolor, entonces afloran cuestionamientos antes nunca vistos. Sabido es que algu- Directora adjunta ASUNCIÓN ARÉVALO nas marcas selectivas consiguen su cifra de negocio anual manejando un [email protected] buen número de marcas de su catálogo. La conocida regla del 20/80 (80% de las ventas con el 20% de los productos) no rige para ellas y el lineal de Redacción MARÍA CRESPO esas marcas rota de forma proporcionada y reparte las ventas de forma más [email protected] o menos equilibrada entre todo su catálogo. Pero existen otras marcas que concentran la mayor parte de sus ventas en REALIZACIÓN una o dos referencias de su catálogo (con las que hacen el 80%) y, sin Avalon Diseño, Comunicación y Marketing embargo, tienen un “resto de universo” dormido en el lineal. El problema, Redacción que apuntan algunos distribuidores a los que la necesidad obliga a pensar, JULIO ALFONSO es si deben trabajarse referencias de ínfima rotación en un momento como [email protected] el actual, en el que la baja rentabilidad obliga a replantearse algunos prin- ANTHONY O. GORIAÏNOFF [email protected] cipios, más allá del denostado juego de los descuentos. Todos sabemos que una gran marca tiene productos de fácil venta y otros que, por su extremada Directora de Arte innovación o su segmentación de mercado, nunca van a ser de venta rápida. BELÉN GARCÍA Hasta ahora se convenía que había que tener el universo completo de la [email protected] marca o al menos una parte notable de él. Fotografía Muchas de las grandes compañías de la cosmética lanzan líneas innovadoras CÉSAR BORREGUERO al tiempo que mantienen las antiguas y, lejos de canibalizarse, consiguen, en algunos casos, hacerlas crecer. Se trata de encontrar un equilibrio entre Jefe Departamento Creativo las marcas clásicas y las innovadoras del catálogo. Pero las dudas surgen con DAVID SÁNCHEZ otras compañías, de tipo medio, que no consiguen hacer triunfar sus nuevas Publicidad líneas, fuerzan su incorporación en el punto de venta y al final el negocio lo JAVIER PÉREZ GARCÍA hacen con la clásica de siempre. Administración: Dicen los distribuidores que el consumidor de hoy ya ve todo el “universo SUSANA ANDRINO de la marca” en Internet y que cuando llega al punto de venta tiene los deberes hechos y va a tiro fijo. Es verdad que el consejo no tiene precio, NEWSFRAGANCIAS pero los consumidores sí parecen habérselo puesto y, al final, acaban com- Magazine para los profesionales de la perfumería prando el producto allí donde la oferta es mejor. Y esta es una de las razones es una revista editada por: de esa carrera desenfrenada de ofertas y promociones que está dando al Ediciones Técnicas Century XXI, S. A. traste con la rentabilidad de las perfumerías a la caza del cliente. Muchos Avda. Concha Espina, 8, 7º Izda. consumidores, además, consideran que el consejo que reciben en el punto 28036 Madrid Tel.: 915 631 011 / Fax: 914 116 920 de venta no siempre es el mejor para su bolsillo o su piel, sino el que más conviene al punto de venta para dar salida productos de menor demanda PRECIOS DE SUSCRIPCIÓN espontánea. ESPAÑA 90 € Ha habido momentos de más y mejor consenso entre los protagonistas de EXTRANJERO 118 € la cadena distributiva Producción gráfica: Forletter, S. A. –fabricante, detallista, consumidor– a la hora de armonizar intereses y defender conceptos. Y aunque la tesitura es complicada hace falta una seria Revista mensual. Impresa en España. Depósito Legal: M-41385-2009 reflexión acerca de qué es la venta selectiva, cuál es el papel de cada uno y © Reservado todos los derechos. Prohibida la reproducción total o qué líneas no deben pasarse. parcial del contenido de esta revista sin permiso previo. 4 NEWSFRAGANCIAS SOPLOS Azzedine Alaïa Una nueva normativa europea obligará a los lanzará su primera distribuidores a comprobar que los datos sobre las etiquetas fragancia de la mano de cosméticos son correctos cuando recepcionan el producto. de BPI en 2015, pero Igualmente debe comprobar que las condiciones de transporte y dentro de ocho meses stockaje deben ser las adecuadas para el producto, o si detecta comenzaremos a tener algún efecto negativo importante. noticias de esta novedad. El problema está en que los pequeños distribuidores pueden no La marca de moda disponer de los medios adecuados para establecer este tipo de de este prestigioso controles. diseñador pertenece al grupo de lujo suizo Richemont. Bourjois acaba de abrir en París una tienda monomarca con su propio nombre. La nueva tienda tiene 470 referencias en una superficie de 41 m2. Esta iniciativa incide en la tendencia Las grandes de algunas marcas, selectivas muchas de ellas, de abrir sus propios puntos de venta emblemáticos en los que mostrar cadenas toda su oferta de productos, su forma de exponerla y las internacionales de actividades complementarias que puede ofrecer (depilación perfumería están poniendo con hilo, clases de maquillaje, manicura, etc). la mayor parte de sus recursos en países o áreas emergentes. En el caso de Douglas, los mercados más interesantes parecen ser los de Europa del Este, Según Euromonitor, Annick Goutal mientras que Sephora una de las tendencias en está llevando a cabo un invierte fundamentalmente cuidado del cabello será importante trabajo para en Asia. Douglas podría el cuidado y tratamiento mejorar la identificación estar interesada en en varios pasos, no de sus diferentes líneas. deshacerse de su negocio solamente champú y Se trata de codificar por en España si encuentra acondicionador, sino colores las diferentes un comprador adecuado. también un verdadero colecciones para mejorar Debería ser alguien fuerte tratamiento con productos su visualización por parte pero con poca presencia que actúan durante del cliente. Así, las líneas en centros comerciales, la noche, productos femeninas serán en donde Douglas tiene una antienvejecimiento, etc. blanco y las masculinas en buena representación Una segmentación similar beige. Las soliflores serán y podría complementar a la que se estila para la rosa, los perfumes de aquella carencia. cosmética de tratamiento, hogar grises y las nuevas pero en este caso para el colognes en verde. cabello. Lolita Lempicka amplía su catálogo con el lanzamiento de L’Eau Jolie, una fragancia frutal-floral, creada por Annick Menardo, de Firmenich. El clásico frasco es ahora rosado. Todo parece indicar que la marca tendrá una nueva línea femenina de cara a la Navidad. NEWSFRAGANCIAS 5 BREVES 0 LVMH 0 Sarkozy, imputado en 0 Suecia condena a L’ORÉAL 1 y el caso Urdangarin 2 el caso BETTENCOURT 3 a pagar 120.000 euros por publicidad engañosa Según ha publicado la prensa El expresidente francés, Nicolas La justicia sueca ha condenado a la multinacional francesa, propiedad española, el duque de Palma, Sarkozy, ha sido imputado por de la mujer más rica del mundo, Lilliane Bettencourt, a pagar una Iñaki Urdangarin, pidió ayuda un presunto delito de abuso de multa de un millón de coronas, alrededor de 120.000 euros, si no al Rey Don Juan Carlos para confianza de una anciana, la retira los anuncios publicitarios de varias cremas antiarrugas por conseguir que el grupo LVMH propietaria de L’Oréal, Liliane considerarlos engañosos. El fallo se produce a raíz de una denuncia patrocinara el evento Valencia Bettencourt (90 años), para presentada por la autoridad de defensa de los consumidores. Summit. En concreto le proponía financiar su campaña electoral en De acuerdo con la sentencia, el grupo carece de base científica que hablara con el propietario, 2007, que le llevó a la presidencia.
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