LPP 2019 20 Factbook
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Taís De F. Saldanha Iensen TRABALHO FINAL DE GRADUAÇÃO II O SEGREDO DE VICTORIA: UM ESTUDO SOBRE AS ESTRATÉGIAS PUBLICITÁRI
Taís de F. Saldanha Iensen TRABALHO FINAL DE GRADUAÇÃO II O SEGREDO DE VICTORIA: UM ESTUDO SOBRE AS ESTRATÉGIAS PUBLICITÁRIAS EVIDENTES NO VICTORIA’S SECRETS FASHION SHOW Santa Maria, RS 2014/1 Taís de F. Saldanha Iensen O SEGREDO DE VICTORIA: UM ESTUDO SOBRE AS ESTRATÉGIAS PUBLICITÁRIAS EVIDENTES NO VICTORIA’S SECRETS FASHION SHOW Trabalho Final de Graduação II (TFG II) apresentado ao Curso de Publicidade e Propaganda, Área de Ciências Sociais, do Centro Universitário Franciscano – Unifra, como requisito para conclusão de curso. Orientadora: Prof.ª Me. Morgana Hamester Santa Maria, RS 2014/1 2 Taís de F. Saldanha Iensen O SEGREDO DE VICTORIA: UM ESTUDO SOBRE AS ESTRATÉGIAS PUBLICITÁRIAS EVIDENTES NO VICTORIA’S SECRETS FASHION SHOW _________________________________________________ Profª Me. Morgana Hamester (UNIFRA) _________________________________________________ Prof Me. Carlos Alberto Badke (UNIFRA) _________________________________________________ Profª Claudia Souto (UNIFRA) 3 AGRADECIMENTOS Inicialmente gostaria de agradecer aos meus pais por terem me proporcionado todas as chances possíveis e impossíveis para que eu tivesse acesso ao ensino superior que eles nunca tiveram, meus irmãos por terem me aguentado e me ajudado durante esse tempo, meus tios e tias, que da mesma forma que meus pais, sempre me incentivaram a estudar, meus avós que sempre me ajudarem nos momentos difíceis com sua sabedoria e experiência. Gostaria também de agradecer em especial à tia Edi, minha dinda, minha madrinha de coração que junto com meus pais, sempre me deu todo tipo de apoio para que eu não desistisse, mesmo nos momentos mais difíceis. Meu amigo Rafa que me deu a ideia do tema e ter me ajudado até a finalização do mesmo. -
The Aesthetics of Mainstream Androgyny
The Aesthetics of Mainstream Androgyny: A Feminist Analysis of a Fashion Trend Rosa Crepax Goldsmiths, University of London Thesis submitted for the degree of Ph.D. in Sociology May 2016 1 I confirm that the work presented in this thesis is my own. Rosa Crepax Acknowledgements I would like to thank Bev Skeggs for making me fall in love with sociology as an undergraduate student, for supervising my MA dissertation and encouraging me to pursue a PhD. For her illuminating guidance over the years, her infectious enthusiasm and the constant inspiration. Beckie Coleman for her ongoing intellectual and moral support, all the suggestions, advice and the many invaluable insights. Nirmal Puwar, my upgrade examiner, for the helpful feedback. All the women who participated in my fieldwork for their time, patience and interest. Francesca Mazzucchi for joining me during my fieldwork and helping me shape my methodology. Silvia Pezzati for always providing me with sunshine. Laura Martinelli for always being there when I needed, and Martina Galli, Laura Satta and Miriam Barbato for their friendship, despite the distance. My family, and, in particular, my mum for the support and the unpaid editorial services. And finally, Goldsmiths and everyone I met there for creating an engaging and stimulating environment. Thank you. Abstract Since 2010, androgyny has entered the mainstream to become one of the most widespread trends in Western fashion. Contemporary androgynous fashion is generally regarded as giving a new positive visibility to alternative identities, and signalling their wider acceptance. But what is its significance for our understanding of gender relations and living configurations of gender and sexuality? And how does it affect ordinary people's relationship with style in everyday life? Combining feminist theory and an aesthetics that contrasts Kantian notions of beauty to bridge matters of ideology and affect, my research investigates the sociological implications of this phenomenon. -
Marcas E Editoriais De Moda Em Diferentes Nichos De Revistas Especializadas
UNIVERSIDADE DA BEIRA INTERIOR Engenharia Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas O caso Vogue, i-D e Dazed & Confused Joana Miguel Ramires Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Design de Moda (2º ciclo de estudos) Orientador: Prof. Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira Covilhã, Outubro de 2012 Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas II Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas Agradecimentos Ao longo do percurso que resultou na realização deste trabalho, foram várias as pessoas que ajudaram a desenvolve-lo e que disponibilizaram o seu apoio e amizade. Desta forma, o primeiro agradecimento vai para a orientadora, Professora Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira, que desde o início foi incansável. Agradeço-lhe pela disponibilidade, compreensão, por me ter guiado da melhor forma por entre todas as dúvidas e problemas que foram surgindo, e por fim, pela força de vontade e entusiamo que me transmitiu. A todos os técnicos e colaboradores dos laboratórios e ateliês do departamento de engenharia têxtil da Universidade da Beira Interior agradeço o seu apoio e os ensinamentos transmitidos ao longo da minha vida académica. Agradeço em especial á D. Lucinda pela sua amizade, e pelo seu apoio constante ao longo destes anos. Às duas pessoas mais importantes da minha vida, pai e mãe agradeço do fundo do coração por todo o amor, carinho, compreensão, e por todos os sacrifícios que fizeram, de modo a me permitirem chegar ao final de mais esta etapa de estudos. Aos meus avós e restante família que também têm sido um pilar fundamental na minha vida a todos os níveis, os meus sinceros agradecimentos. -
Gaucho Cool for Their Proenza Schouler Collection, Sliced with Fascinating Fabric Play and a Vaguely Seventies Sophistication
ROUND SQUEEZE HOME TWO PLAY AGAIN OSCAR DE LA RENTA ART BASEL MIAMI GIAMBATTISTA DOES ANOTHER HITS ITS HIGH VALLI REVEALS COLLECTION FOR NOTE WITH PACKED PLANS TO OPEN A THE OUTNET. PARTIES GALORE. MILAN FLAGSHIP. PAGE 11 PAGE 10 PAGE 8 SPINNING OFF LANDS’ END Lampert’s Sears: An Unwinding Tale By VICKI M. YOUNG TIME APPEARS to be running out for Edward S. Lampert. Lampert is chairman and chief executive of- ficer of Sears Holding Corp. and chairman of ESL Investments, which holds a 48.4 percent stake in MONDAY, DECEMBER 9, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Sears. Last week he faced a blow when Goldman WWD Sachs pulled $3.5 billion out of ESL, cutting the funds ESL has under management by more than 60 percent and, as a result, reducing his stake in Sears to below 50 percent since part of the payout was in Sears stock. On Friday, Lampert had to once again shuffle Sears’ assets in order to bolster the ailing retailer’s balance sheet. The hedge fund manager is spinning off Lands’ End, making that division a public company once again. [For more on the spin-off, see sidebar, page 7]. No word yet on the future of Sears Auto Center busi- ness, which the company has been considering divest- ing to raise further funds to keep Sears operating. Even after the latest spin-off, Lampert will still have 48.4 percent of Lands’ End and there is little doubt he and his investors have profited handsomely Gaucho from the Sears investment. -
Michael on the Mainland
CALVIN’S SPEAKING COUPLE SUKI SUKI CHRISTY TURLINGTON WATERHOUSE BURNS AND HUSBAND TALKS ABOUT ED BURNS ARE FEATURED MODELING, TALKING ABOUT MOM IN THE NEW AD PARTYING DESIGNERS REVEAL THEIR FAVORITE CAMPAIGN FOR CALVIN AND MORE. MEMORIES OF THEIR MOTHERS. PAGE 13 KLEIN ETERNITY. PAGE 9 PAGE 14 WWDFRIDAY, MAY 9, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY RETAIL’S MIXED MESSAGE Comps Rise Sharply But Picture Murky Even so, the RetailNext study By ARNOLD J. KARR also offered a ray of hope. Chitra and EVAN CLARK Balasubramanian, head of busi- ness analytics at RetailNext, said HIT AND MISS. shoppers were spending more That seems to be the retail once they opened their wallets. trend these days as April compa- The average transaction value rable-store sales figures released rose 2.8 percent in April and sales Thursday showed a strong uptick per shopper inched up 0.5 percent. while other data sounded a more Taking March and April togeth- bearish note. er to eliminate any impact from An exclusive look at a Easter’s later timing versus last RetailNext study of point-of-sale year, RetailNext found that sales and customer traffic data from for the two months fell 6.9 percent more than 14 million shopping as traffic dipped 5 percent. trips around the country found that “It’s not so great on one hand sales and traffic at apparel and ac- that traffic is down, but on the cessories retailers fell 2.1 percent other hand, it’s a pretty good sign last month while the number of that those who are making it into transactions declined 4.5 percent. -
Here at the Nob Hill Gazette, We're Ringing in 2017 with Our Annual A-List of All the Names We Dropped During the Past Year. W
STORY BY ERIN CARLSON | PRODUCTION & STYLE BY NATASHA CHALENKO | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JERAMIE CAMPBELL Here at the Nob Hill Gazette, we’re ringing in 2017 with our annual A-List of all the names we dropped during the past year. We invited a few of the glitterati to be photographed for the issue, and you’ve probably seen them around: There’s Willie Brown and the ever-fashionable Sonya Molodetskaya! Plus: Dede Wilsey! Riccardo Benavides! Karen Caldwell! Each donned designer get-ups from favorites like Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana and Oscar de la Renta. No A-List would be complete without this crew. “I’d be profoundly disappoint- “I think when people see you ed if my name was not there,” said smiling, having fun —that’s the most Brown, who arrived to the shoot important thing in life,” she said. dressed to slay in a Kiton tuxedo “Life's not easy, as we all know. and Christian Louboutin formal There are moments. There are ups wear slippers. “I’d be devastated! and downs. But if you can go some- Because by comparison, I observe where and dress up, have a smile on the wearing apparel of many of the your face, feel good, that’s a moment other males of San Francisco—and that gives you pleasure.” there’s not a whole lot of people who And perhaps, some love from dress the way the guys dress in New the A-List. York, or the way the guys dress in More-than-honorable mentions Paris or the way, apparently, every in this list's 26th edition: Pamala Italian including Italian farmers and Ted Deikel; Vanessa Getty; dress. -
Presse Avril 2016
Communiqué de presse Avril 2016 CASTING ELITE MODEL LOOK ANTILLES-GUYANE 2016: Samedi 30 avril au CC CARREFOUR MATOURY Pour la 33ème année consécutive, Elite organise le plus prestigieux concours international de mannequins et offre à des milliers de jeunes filles âgées de 14 à 22 ans et mesurant plus d’1m72, l'opportunité de réaliser leur rêve et de suivre les traces de top models tels que Cindy Crawford, Stéphanie Seymour, Gisèle Bundchen, Sigrid Agren, Cora Emmanuel... Un tremplin unique pour intégrer l'univers de la mode… L'équipe Elite Model Look Antilles-Guyane sera présente : - Samedi 30 avril au CARREFOUR MATOURY Les inscriptions seront ouvertes sur place de 10h à 19h mais il est également possible de se pré-inscrire dès à présent sur www.elitemodellook.com/gp ou bien de récupérer sa fiche casting dans l’une des boutiques du centre commercial. Les finalistes seront choisies sur la base de leurs qualités photogéniques, de leur personnalité et de leur beauté naturelle mais également en fonction de leur potentiel à correspondre à la tendance actuelle. Informations pratiques : - Concours réservé aux jeunes filles de 14 à 22 ans, mesurant plus d’1m72 - Documents à apporter le jour du casting : une autorisation parentale ou la présence d’un parent pour les mineures, une photo portrait et une photo en pied. - Conseils : être la plus naturelle possible, ne pas mettre de maquillage et porter des vêtements près du corps - Apporter un maillot de bain et une paire de chaussures à talons fins. - Renseignements au 0690 69 08 81 ou sur le site www.elitemodellook.com/gp Pour suivre toute notre actualité, rejoignez-nous sur Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/elitemodellookantillesguyane. -
Large Print Guide
Large Print Guide You can download this document from www.manchesterartgallery.org Sponsored by While principally a fashion magazine, Vogue has never been just that. Since its first issue in 1916, it has assumed a central role on the cultural stage with a history spanning the most inventive decades in fashion and taste, and in the arts and society. It has reflected events shaping the nation and Vogue 100: A Century of Style has been organised by the world, while setting the agenda for style and fashion. the National Portrait Gallery, London in collaboration with Tracing the work of era-defining photographers, models, British Vogue as part of the magazine’s centenary celebrations. writers and designers, this exhibition moves through time from the most recent versions of Vogue back to the beginning of it all... 24 June – 30 October Free entrance A free audio guide is available at: bit.ly/vogue100audio Entrance wall: The publication Vogue 100: A Century of Style and a selection ‘Mighty Aphrodite’ Kate Moss of Vogue inspired merchandise is available in the Gallery Shop by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, June 2012 on the ground floor. For Vogue’s Olympics issue, Versace’s body-sculpting superwoman suit demanded ‘an epic pose and a spotlight’. Archival C-type print Photography is not permitted in this exhibition Courtesy of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott Introduction — 3 FILM ROOM THE FUTURE OF FASHION Alexa Chung Drawn from the following films: dir. Jim Demuth, September 2015 OUCH! THAT’S BIG Anna Ewers HEAT WAVE Damaris Goddrie and Frederikke Sofie dir. -
Präsentation Des Kalenders 2020 “Looking for Juliet” Von Paolo Roversi in Verona
PRESSEMITTEILUNG PIRELLI: PRÄSENTATION DES KALENDERS 2020 “LOOKING FOR JULIET” VON PAOLO ROVERSI IN VERONA In Kombination mit einem Kurzfilm sucht Paolo Roversi nach dem Wesen der Julia Verona, 3. Dezember 2019 — “Looking for Juliet”, der von Paolo Roversi realisierte Pirelli Kalender für das Jahr 2020, wurde heute im Opernhaus von Verona präsentiert. Paolo Roversi hat sich dabei von William Shakespeares zeitlosem Drama inspirieren lassen. In der 47. Ausgabe des The Cal™ spricht er mit Claire Foy, Mia Goth, Chris Lee, Indya Moore, Rosalía, Stella Roversi, Yara Shahidi, Kristen Stewart und Emma Watson als Protagonistinnen die „Julia, die in jeder Frau lebt“ an. In diesem Jahr verschmilzt der Kalender erstmals Fotografie und Film, da er von einem Kurzfilm begleitet wird. In dem 18-minütigen Kurzfilm spielt Paolo Roversi sich selbst als Filmregisseur und interviewt Kandidatinnen für die Rolle der Julia. Nacheinander treten sie vor die Kamera des Regisseurs, um die facettenreiche Julia durch ein breites Spektrum an Emotionen und Ausdrucksformen darzustellen. Die Story gliedert sich in zwei Abschnitte. Im ersten Abschnitt werden die Darstellerinnen ohne Schminke und ohne Kostüme abgelichtet, während sie das Set betreten. Sie werden aufgenommen, während sie mit Roversi über das Projekt reden, in der Hoffnung, dafür ausgewählt zu werden. Sie sprechen über ihre eigenen Erfahrungen und ihre Vorstellung von Julia. Die Darstellerinnen öffnen sich einer intimen und ganz vertrauten Erzählung. Im zweiten Abschnitt tragen sie die Kostüme der Darstellerinnen in Shakespeares Tragödie. Der Effekt, der erzeugt wird, ist eine Story, in der Wirklichkeit und Fiktion ineinander übergehen, und die Grenzen, wie auf einigen Bildern, verschwimmen. „Ich war auf der Suche nach einer reinen Seele, geprägt von Unschuld, Willensstärke, Schönheit, Zärtlichkeit und Mut. -
Organized Crime in Bulgaria: Markets and Trends
ORGANIZED CRIME IN BULGARIA: MARKETS AND TRENDS ���������� ������������ ��������� The present report builds upon various studies published by the Center for the Study of Democracy throughout the last decade which have focused on specific aspects of organized crime in Bulgaria (contraband, the drug market, tax fraud, human trafficking, arms proliferation, etc.), the systemic spread of corruption, and the linkages between the two. The report presents the latest trends and manifestations (or “market niches”) of syndicate crime and its particularly damaging effects. It goes further to offer a historical review of the facts and available expertise in the area, and to draw conclusions about the origin, characteristics and developmental features of organized criminality in Bulgaria in the context of the transition to democracy. This report attempts to present an authentic picture of organized crime in Bulgaria, by identifying its constitu- ent features and major trends. The research team has used information from all available sources, analyzing it through several, complementary methods. Collecting empirical data about clandestine and hidden markets is a hard task, which can sometimes put the researchers at risk. However, it cannot be dispensed with, particularly as the so called objective data (police and judicial crime statistics) provided by public bodies is often incomplete and sometimes manipulated. This paper also furthers expertise exchange through a public-private partnership. This publication has been produced with the financial assistance of the European Union. Its contents are the sole responsibility of the Center for the Study of Deocracy and can under no circumstances be regarded as reflecting the position of the European Union. The report is published with the financial support of the US Department of Justice Editorial Board Ognian Shentov Boyko Todorov Alexander Stoyanov ISBN 978-954-477-150-8 © 2007, Center for the Study of Democracy All rights reserved. -
Feminine Touch John Varvatos Is Expanding Into Women’S — Fragrance, That Is, with His fi Rst Feminine Scent
MACY’S GOES 24 HOURS/2 CLAIBORNE’S LATEST SALE?/3 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • December 14, 2007 • $2.00 Beauty Feminine Touch John Varvatos is expanding into women’s — fragrance, that is, with his fi rst feminine scent. The designer’s signature women’s fragrance is set to be launched in February at Saks Fifth Avenue, and could generate more than $10 million in fi rst-year retail sales, doubling Varvatos’ beauty business. For more, see page 11. Building a Winner: P&G Joins Prestige Fragrance Leaders By Stephanie Epiro harvest its growth mainly through as a fragrance-centric firm for GENEVA — While competitors make fragrance. another couple of years. moves to diversify their beauty In the wake of Coty’s acquisition In an exclusive interview, lineup, P&G Prestige Products, a of Del Laboratories earlier Hartwig Langer, president of robustly growing division of the this week in order to add color P&G Prestige Products, unveiled Cincinnati, Ohio-based consumer cosmetics, P&G Prestige Products the firm’s core strategy at its giant, intends to continue to reported it would retain its focus See P&G, Page 6 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY DANILO MATZ DANILO THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2007 WWD.COM Macy’s Goes Round-the-Clock for Holiday By David Moin this you just can’t pull together was fabulous. They are looking WWDFRIDAY at the last minute.” The eight for every angle to get a plus to acy’s is buying holiday stores designated for round-the- the business,” most of which he Beauty Mshoppers in the New York clock shopping are all “extreme- expects will come from main metropolitan area extra time. -
PRINT ISSUE EDITORIALIST.COM/SUBSCRIBE Your One-Stop-Shop to Sourcing Everything on Your Fall Wish List
[ EDITORIALIST [ AT YOUR DOOR... subscribe to the PRINT ISSUE EDITORIALIST.COM/SUBSCRIBE Your one-stop-shop to sourcing everything on your fall wish list. You see it. You want it. We’ll find it. [email protected] /TABLE OF CONTENTS [ /TRENDS 12. ACCESSORIES TRENDS 21. EDITOR PICKS /STYLE 26. MOODY JEWELS 28. STYLE TRENDS /GUIDES 32. STYLE GUIDE /NEWS 40. WHAT’S NEW[S] 44. KICK START: Feiyue 45. ACCESSORIES REPORT /EXCLUSIVE 62. FIT TO BE TIED: Tyler Alexandra /FEATURES 64. UPTOWN GIRL: FALL / WINTER 2015 FALL Jill Kargman 78. FEELING GROOVY: Robin Katz 82. FAMILY JEWELS: Dannijo [Newsstand Cover] On Bella: VALENTINO Gown. PHYNE BY PAIGE NOVICK Ear Climber [E]. SANJAY KASLIWAL OF THE GEM PALACE, JAIPUR Diamond Necklace [E]. Photographed by Gilles Bensimon; Styled by Kate Davidson Hudson; Associate Editor: Alyssa Francois; Stylist Assistant: Marcelle Breibart; Photographer’s Assistants: Jon Brown, Aaron Austin; Digital Tech: Blake Ribbey; Model: Bella Hadid @ IMG; Hair: David Von Cannon @ Streeters; Make-Up: Misha Shahzada @ See Management; Manicure: Gina Eppolito. [Subscriber Cover] On Emily: BALMAIN Jumpsuit & Belt. LETTERS BY ZOE “J” Pendant [E]. SYDNEY EVAN Evil Eye Necklace & Cuff [E]. KHAI KHAI Ring [E]. EDITORIALIST Photographed by Derek Kettela; Styled by Michaela Dosamantes; Stylist Assistant: Keyla Marquez; Photographer’s Assistants: Douglas Markland, Johnathan Folds; Digital Tech: Marylene May; Model: Emily Ratajkowski @ Ford Models; Hair: Dennis Gots @ The Wall Group; Make-Up: Valery Gherman @ Art Dept; Manicure: Sarah Chue; Bookings Editor: Jaclyn Bloomfield. [ 150 /TABLE OF CONTENTS /INFLUENCER 67. STYLE BY THE NUMBERS: Hedvig Opshaug 70. MIXED MEDIA: Alina Cho 73. FIRST LADY: Jane Keltner de Valle 75.