Feminine Touch John Varvatos Is Expanding Into Women’S — Fragrance, That Is, with His fi Rst Feminine Scent
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MACY’S GOES 24 HOURS/2 CLAIBORNE’S LATEST SALE?/3 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • December 14, 2007 • $2.00 Beauty Feminine Touch John Varvatos is expanding into women’s — fragrance, that is, with his fi rst feminine scent. The designer’s signature women’s fragrance is set to be launched in February at Saks Fifth Avenue, and could generate more than $10 million in fi rst-year retail sales, doubling Varvatos’ beauty business. For more, see page 11. Building a Winner: P&G Joins Prestige Fragrance Leaders By Stephanie Epiro harvest its growth mainly through as a fragrance-centric firm for GENEVA — While competitors make fragrance. another couple of years. moves to diversify their beauty In the wake of Coty’s acquisition In an exclusive interview, lineup, P&G Prestige Products, a of Del Laboratories earlier Hartwig Langer, president of robustly growing division of the this week in order to add color P&G Prestige Products, unveiled Cincinnati, Ohio-based consumer cosmetics, P&G Prestige Products the firm’s core strategy at its giant, intends to continue to reported it would retain its focus See P&G, Page 6 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY DANILO MATZ DANILO THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2007 WWD.COM Macy’s Goes Round-the-Clock for Holiday By David Moin this you just can’t pull together was fabulous. They are looking WWDFRIDAY at the last minute.” The eight for every angle to get a plus to acy’s is buying holiday stores designated for round-the- the business,” most of which he Beauty Mshoppers in the New York clock shopping are all “extreme- expects will come from main metropolitan area extra time. ly high-traffi c” units, she added. fl oor categories, including cos- Beginning 7 a.m. Friday, Dec. As for being hard on employ- metics, men’s, handbags and FASHION 21, seven Macy’s stores, includ- ees, Kazan said many associates jewelry. They tend to pick up as Vera Wang’s fi rst pre-fall collection was refi ned and edgy; Yeohlee went ing the Herald Square fl agship, volunteered to work the over- Christmas nears, said the former 4 for stark, slender shapes, and Temperley London stayed classic. will be open 24 hours daily night shift. executive, who asked not to be until 6 p.m. on Christmas Eve. Last year, Macy’s in Queens identifi ed, adding, “This is not The other six stores are: Kings Center operated round-the-clock a bad move, as long as you don’t GENERAL Plaza in Brooklyn, Cross County a few days before Christmas. force sales associates to do it.” While competitors make moves to diversify their beauty lineups, P&G shopping center in Yonkers, the “That was a test for us,’’ Kazan Isaac Lagnado, president of 1 Prestige Products intends to harvest its growth through fragrances. Staten Island mall on Staten said. “It was a success. We de- Tactical Retail Solutions, said Seven Macy’s stores, including the Herald Square fl agship, will operate Island, Roosevelt Field on cided to expand upon it. Macy’s, as one of the larger mall around the clock from Dec. 21 until 6 p.m. on Christmas Eve. Long Island, Newport Center in “There is a lot that goes into tenants with stores typically 2 Jersey City and the Willowbrook going 24 hours,’’ she con- in the 250,000- to 350,000- Liz Claiborne Inc. is said to have settled on buyers for Ellen Tracy and mall in Wayne, N.J. tinued. “It’s not only square-foot range, has 3 Laundry, and is contemplating keeping Dana Buchman and licensing it. In addition, Macy’s at about the staffi ng. It’s “dominant operations” Marc Jacobs’ annual holiday party at the Rainbow Room drew snake Queens Center mall on Queens about getting mer- that can readily adopt charmers, Jeannies (as in “I Dream of”), sheikhs and veiled belly dancers. Boulevard will begin operating chandise on the to extraordinary 5 around the clock starting 7 a.m. floor, housekeep- hours. The Herald John Varvatos, who has built a $100 million men’s fashion and holiday fragrance business, will try his hand with a women’s scent in the spring. Thursday. ing, rearranging Square flagship is 11 Amid macroeconomic chal- schedules, making already a 24-hour Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................15 lenges and a highly promotional sure cash registers operation in terms of holiday season for retailers, are functioning.” receiving, restocking To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Christine Augustine, retail ana- And for customers, ’07 the selling fl oors, house- [email protected], using the individual’s name. lyst at Bear Stearns, differed from “Who wouldn’t want the keeping, security and other WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT some competitors and consultants extra time to shop, so you can functions. ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 194, NO. 126. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one who suggested that the move an- feel less rushed, less harried,’’ “I think there is anxiety, and additional issue in January and December, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October and, November, nounced Thursday was intended Kazan said. “This gives consum- my sense is that Macy’s had this and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance to offset weak holiday sales. ers the opportunity to shop at plan on the shelf as a contingency Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive “It’s ‘so far, so good’ for their convenience.” for a long time,” Lagnado said. Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Macy’s,’’ she said. “November Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail was very strong. The outlook for Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: comps in December is down, but SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA that’s as planned. So far, Macy’s My sense is that Macy’s had this 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE is tracking as planned for the “ INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit quarter as far as sales. Macy’s, plan on the shelf as a contingency for www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production in my opinion, has done a much correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, better job of controlling their a long time. please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other inventory and protecting their Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list ”— Isaac Lagnado, Tactical Retail Solutions available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. margins. Their competitors are If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA a lot more desperate and doing 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, a lot more couponing.” A former department store At Wal-Mart, operating 24 OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED If the retailer “were [operat- executive familiar with Macy’s hours is a year-round fact MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR ing 24-7] at all of it 850 stores, I observed: “One could say that for a majority of the 2,435 CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR would be more concerned they Macy’s is providing a customer Supercenters and 979 other Wal- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. were worried about the season,’’ convenience and that there is a Mart stores. Some don’t because Augustine said. “But you know need for it. In New York, there of local ordinances. this is also New York — the city are a lot of people working dif- “For a place like Wal-Mart, that never sleeps. So why not ferent shifts,” including hospital having a skeletal sales staff into stay open 24 hours?” and city workers. “In this econ- the graveyard shift, as a per- Quote of the Week Macy’s countered speculation omy, people are working two centage of the total operating that the policy was motivated jobs a day, so to get extra time budget, is quite small,” Lagnado by disappointing sales.