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Home , Brian Stonehouse, Elie Saab, Reem Acra, Saks Fifth Avenue

SAAB’S BIG THE BATTLE FOR PUSH DOWNTOWN ELIE SAAB IS AMONG A WAVE OF LEBANESE DESIGNERS RAISING THEIR PROFILES IN THE WESTFIELD WORLD TRADE CENTER UNVEILS U.S. AND ABROAD. PAGE 8 ITS FIRST LIST OF TENANTS AT LAST. PAGE 3

WWDMONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE UNITED STATES OF LUXURY By MILES SOCHA and SAMANTHA CONTI 16 percent; Hermès’ jumped 16.9 percent at constant exchange, and Gucci’s increased 8 percent at its own stores. AMERICA THE BEAUTIFUL. The data are unequivocal: In the third quarter, the U.S. That seems to be the song luxury brands are singing these days. notched 3.5 percent growth in gross domestic product, With the Chinese market cooling and Europe in the doldrums, demonstrating broad-based improvement across the economy. the U.S. is looking more like the luxury El Dorado it used to The most recent study by Bain & Co. and Fondazione be. Simply scanning the third-quarter, or nine-month, results of Altagamma, the Italian association, confi rmed the leading luxury brands is proof of the market’s buoyancy: Saint Americas as a key growth driver, accounting for 32 percent of a Laurent’s North American sales leaped 47 percent in the third global market for personal luxury goods estimated at 223 billion quarter; Moncler’s were up 32 percent; Brunello Cucinelli’s rose SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014 WWD.COM Kors’ Instagram Adds ‘Buy’ THE BRIEFING BOX most social engagement to date one of the fi rst brands to imple- IN TODAY’S WWD By RACHEL STRUGATZ — handbags, such as the Dillon ment an initiative like this. The satchel and the Elsie box clutch; program is the brand’s attempt — Michael Kors is watches, such as the Kerry and to see an ROI from Instagram, taking its massive Instagram fol- Colette offerings; accessories and which is arguably its most power- Lord & Taylor’s windows were designed as glimpses lowing — the company has 3.1 shoes — will make up the major- ful social channel. into other worlds. For more, see page 6 and WWD.com. million fans and counting — and ity of items for sale. Although it’s beginning in banking that engagement on the Asked why Kors has chosen to time for the holidays, social platform will translate into sales. base a shopping program around shopping won’t be a one-off thing Today will see the launch of a platform that inherently isn’t for Kors. The brand will incorpo- #InstaKors, a program that aims built for shopping —Facebook rate this technology into its over- to bridge the brand’s Instagram and both have buying op- all strategy, calling it an “always- and e-commerce channels. tions right on their platforms — on” service going forward. This is how it works: When the brand had a simple reason: The Kors’ program is the visitors sign up on michael- Instagram is where it sees the brand’s take on the technol- kors.com using their e-mail highest year-over-year growth ogy offered by RewardStyle’s and Instagram handle, they re- and engagement. Facebook and LIKEtoKNOW.it, the tool that ceive e-mails with direct links Twitter are instrumental in in- also sends users an e-mail fea- to purchase any items they have spiring fans and helping in the turing a link to buy a product “liked” in the Instagram posts. shopping process, but fi nding a that was triggered by a “like” on Any post enabled with the shop- way to “shop” Instagram was a Instagram. The feature is popu- ping feature will be hashtagged necessity, the company said. lar, with access to 3,500 - JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY #InstaKors, which, over the With the social selling space ers and brands. To date, 70,000 course of the holiday season, still looming as a black box of Instagrams have been published will comprise 60 products span- sorts for brands — Instagram on LIKEtoKNOW.it, with more With the Chinese market cooling and Europe in the ning 20 shoppable Instagrams. has yet to incorporate the ability than 40 million e-mails sent to doldrums, the U.S. is looking more like the luxury El Dorado it Products that have garnered the to link out from a post — Kors is fans’ in-boxes. used to be. PAGE 1

Are luxury prices killing the goose that laid the golden egg? Not necessarily. PAGE 5

Joe’s Jeans Falls Out of Loan Compliance Italia Independent is going American. The eyewear agreement as of Sept. 30. When both lenders and seeking amend- company today will open its fi rst U.S. stand-alone store in By ARNOLD J. KARR Joe’s reported results for its ments to existing agreements New York’s SoHo neighborhood. PAGE 6 2: Kors social; third quarter and nine months in and waivers on the dual defaults. SHARES OF JOE’S Jeans Inc. October, the company said it was If unsuccessful, payment terms Lord & Taylor and began the fl ood of declined 21.2 percent to close in compliance with all covenant could accelerate, which, Joe’s holiday window unveilings with events that refl ected the Joe's; Nautica at 75 cents in Nasdaq trading, provisions of the Garrison loan said, would have “a material ad- two retailers’ distinctly different personalities. PAGE 6 after the company reported that as of Aug. 31. verse effect on our liquidity, fi - it had fallen out of compliance nancial condition and results of A growing number of celebrities are donning fashions with the profit requirements of its operations and could cause us to by Lebanese designers, who are taking the top spots as Garrison Loan Agency term loan become bankrupt or insolvent if America’s new red-carpet darlings. PAGE 8 and was seeking waivers and ad- not resolved.” justments. Joe’s acquired Hudson An exhibition in showcases works by the British The company said in a fi ling 21.2% Jeans for about $97.6 million painter Brian Stonehouse, who served as a spy during World with the Securities and Exchange in October 2013, and a portion War II and later became a fashion illustrator. PAGE 10 Commission that, in the 12 DECLINE IN JOE’S JEANS of the proceeds came from the months ended Sept. 30, it had Garrison loan. SHARE PRICE ON FRIDAY. Drawing a good crowd has never been an issue for Stella failed to meet the covenants for Joe’s net income for the fi rst McCartney, as many gathered Thursday at Alice Tully Hall to earnings before interest, taxes, nine months of the current fi s- see her honored with the Women’s Leadership Award. PAGE 10 depreciation and amortization cal year was $437,000 versus a of the term loan reached with The default event automati- net loss of $5.5 million in the Garrison one year earlier. cally put Joe’s in violation of its fi rst three quarters of 2013. The Shares of Perry Ellis International Inc. rose nearly 2.8 With the default, Garrison de- revolving credit and factoring loss, however, included an $8.7 percent to $23.58 as talks about a possible sale manded payment of outstanding facility with CIT Commercial million pretax charge to cover resurfaced Friday. PAGE 11 interest, and the interest rate on Services. Under that agreement, a onetime payment of $9.2 mil- the fi nancing was elevated to 14 there is $33.9 million outstanding lion to creative director Joe The Association of Magazine Media is plumbing the depths percent from 12 percent. and $13.7 million available under Dahan to replace earn-out al- of social media and how it relates to 166 magazine brands There was $59.9 million out- the factoring facility. lowances tied to the company’s via a ranking system. PAGE 11 standing under the existing Joe’s said it is negotiating with gross profi t. According to a motion fi led in New York federal court, lawyers for Condé Nast interns have settled on the princely sum of almost $5.9 million. PAGE 11

Nautica Names New Head of Men’s ON WWD.COM future evolution of the brand,” but declined to pro- By JEAN E. PALMIERI vide more detail at this point. Nautica had showed LORD & TAYLOR HOLIDAY WINDOWS: Lord & Taylor Black Sail on the runway during New York Fashion unveiled its holiday windows on Thursday night. For more, CHRIS COX IS sailing off into the sunset. Week, but took a break last season. see WWD.com. On Friday, Cox resigned as vice president of de- Cox joined Nautica in 2008 as vice president of sign and creative for Nautica, effective immediate- men’s design and was promoted nine months later ly, and the brand named Steve McSween to the new to vice president of design and creative. In addi- role of vice president of global design for men’s. tion to the fl agship Nautica sportswear line, he FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA McSween, a 20-year veteran of LF USA, Gap and also designed Black Sail. Before joining Nautica, @ WWD.com/social Club Monaco, starts today. Cox was creative director and senior vice presi- McSween will oversee the global men’s sports- dent of design for Victorinox Swiss Army for two TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS wear and sleepwear businesses as well as all men’s years and had been with Tommy Hilfi ger for nine [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. licensed categories and will work closely with Chris years. He has also worked for Banana Republic WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Jackson, vice president of global design for wom- and Graj & Gustavsen. VOLUME 208, NO. 103. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, en’s, who joined the company last year. McSween’s Murray, who recruited Cox to Nautica, said she Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. fi rst collection will be for spring 2016. has “tremendous respect for him and his talent. He PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, McSween and Jackson will report to Trudi contributed greatly to building the Nautica brand and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, Roach, the brand’s newly named vice president of over the past six years.” Harlan, IA, 51593. 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Before that, If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within sumer segmentation [project] and we’re learn- he held the same role at Gap Inc. for six years and four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, ing so much about our consumer and our brand. was director of men’s design for Club Monaco for 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media, 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, We have identifi ed our target and now are in the fi ve years. please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to midst of a repositioning.” Murray said McSween has a “great aesthetic other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, Murray said by early next year, Nautica will be and a consumer-centric mind-set and will play an UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND TRANSPARENCIES), ready to lay out its game plan to grow the label na- important role in integrating our consumer insight OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY tionally and internationally. She said the brand’s and brand-positioning work into the development WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE elevated Black Sail collection “has a place in the and execution of innovative, desirable product.” ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014 3 WWD.COM the cavernous West Concourse in October 2013 created a pedestrian link between Westfi eld World Trade Center, Brookfi eld Place and the New York Waterway Ferry Terminal. A complementary concourse will allow pedestrians to walk from the Westfi eld World Trade West Side to the East, with a corridor from Brookfi eld Place to Westfi eld World Trade Center to Fulton Center to the east side of Wall Street. The West Concourse was peaceful on Unveils Tenant Roster a recent day, its gleaming white marble- covered walls and fl oors giving a luxe air to the transit corridor. The retail here will be geared to commuters and offi ce work- ers with quick food and drink options as well as services. Another facet of the proj- ect is dining. While the West Concourse will be cash-and-carry, there will be more serious food options such as an Eataly branch tailored to the neighborhood. “Food has an opportunity to be much bet- ter than it is downtown,” Miles said. Westfi eld is planning to open “some type of salon services and a concierge in- spired by the best hotel services,” Miles said. The latter could be powered by Westwood Labs, the developer’s Silicon Valley-based research and development arm. “[Technology] is a key priority,” Miles said. “There will be an element of that. Clearly, we’re very conscious of the convergence of online and physical A view of the transit corridor. stores. We’ll certainly be using Westfi eld Labs to further advance ideas. A lot of

favorites. But it’s not going to be overly By SHARON EDELSON skewed toward men,” Miles said, point- The site under ing out that several brands will offer construction. NEW YORK — The suspense — or at men’s and women’s assortments. least some of it — is over. Other retailers will include Montblanc, Westfi eld World Trade Center has fi - Breitling, Zadig & Voltaire, Reese, nally released a partial tenant roster, Desigual, Tumi, Bose, Vince Camuto, which includes Michael Kors, Hugo Boss, Camper, Asics, MAC, Kiehl’s and Aesop. John Varvatos and Turnbull & Asser. Asking rents, depending on location, Kors will have a “fl agship presentation,” are in the $450-a-square-foot range, with said Greg Miles, chief operating offi cer of added costs such as a percentage of Westfi eld Group, without confi rming the sales, according to sources. Retail sourc- size of the store. There is believed to be es said “the project doesn’t have a ton of three store-size ranges: From 800 square space. They’re trying to get a lot of retail- feet to 1,000 square feet; 3,000 square ers in there. They have to limit how big feet to 4,000 square feet, and 8,000 to these guys all go.” 10,000 square feet. The average size of a “The leasing isn’t complete,” said store is about 2,200 square feet and there Miles. “A lot of other retailers are in the are about 150 store spaces. advanced stages of negotiations.” The Kors will have a big presence in lower names Westfi eld released to WWD repre- ; the designer in 2013 signed sent about 15 percent of the center’s total a lease for a 1,700-square-foot store at roster. “If you combine that with food, it Brookfi eld Place, the competing retail would add another 10 percent to 15 per- project across the street from Westfi eld cent,” he said. “The names are a taste

World Trade Center that has attracted of what we’re doing. There’s obviously JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY luxury players and contemporary brands such as Saks , Hermès, Westfi eld World Trade is expected to online retailers are now establishing Burberry, Ferragamo, Ermenegildo do $700 million to $1 billion in annual re- a physical presence. It’s certainly an Zegna, Scoop and Calypso and will have tail sales and $2,000 to $3,000 in sales per emerging trend.” 250,000 square feet of retail space when square foot. “It will be one of the top re- Westfi eld in 1999 partnered with de- it opens in March. tail facilities in the world,” Miles claimed. veloper Larry Silverstein in a joint re- “We’re broadly 12 months away [from Westfi eld placed a premium on fash- tail and offi ce bid for the World Trade opening],” Miles said of Westfi eld World ion early on. “Fashion gives the space a Center. “We bought the [retail] in 2001 Trade Center, which is scheduled to open sense of energy,” he said. and settled it all a couple months be- in fall 2015. “We always said that we were In July, Westfi eld entered into a wide- fore 9/11,” Miles said. The journey to really after a curated mix for retailers.” Asking rents, depending on location, ranging partnership with the CFDA/ fi nished space, which is not over, has With 350,000 square feet of retail are in the $450 a square foot range. Vogue Fashion Fund, one of many cul- been long and complicated and expen- space available now — an additional tural alliances it plans to establish. The sive. Westfi eld has had to work under 90,000 square feet will be delivered center will be a key supporter of the city and state governments’ watchful when Tower Two is built at a yet-to-be- 2014 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund gala in eyes, respect sacred ground and deal determined time — Westfi eld is address- November. A concept shop will open in with various advocacy groups. Miles said ing a diverse population. “We thought it the Oculus, highlighting collections from Westfield World Trade was designed was incredibly important to have a mix past and present CFDA/Vogue Fashion in consideration of the 9/11 Memorial that would satisfy three key groups: the Fund finalists. Beneath the Oculus, Museum, which is in the retail project’s growing residential community, the 350,000 which will be covered by retractable backyard. When all are completed, tow- offi ce-worker population and the tour- glass, 30,000 square feet of column-free ers one through four will surround the ist market,” Miles said, adding that the CURRENT AMOUNT OF RETAIL SPACE AT space has been set aside for events such museum and refl ecting pools. “There’s latter group will swell with the opening WESTFIELD WORLD TRADE CENTER. as fashion shows, art exhibitions and no commercial activity directed toward of the World Trade Center observation community gatherings. the pools,” Miles said. “There are no deck next year and the upcoming Four The Oculus, designed by star architect shops facing the refl ecting pools.” Seasons Hotel. many more deals done, but putting out a Santiago Calatrava, is the centerpiece Competition in is Hugo Boss will have a store that’s list of 50 or 100 names didn’t make sense. of the Westfi eld development, rising 150 heating up as the number of residents has “larger than most,” Miles said. There’s just a handful of spaces left” that feet at the highest part of its ceiling. It grown to more than 60,000. The makeup “Being in Westfi eld World Trade Center aren’t spoken for. has generated controversy for its appear- of the 454,000 offi ce-worker population is puts us right in the middle of the new Asked about retailers that have re- ance and for its complexity of design, also changing as fi nancial fi rms decamp to Lower Manhattan, which is fast becom- portedly shown interest in Westfield which some say has delayed the open- other locations and media, creative and ing one of the most vibrant and energetic World Trade, such as Tiffany & Co., ing of the center. Formed by a series of technology companies move downtown. places in ,” said Cristiano Apple and J.Lindeberg, Miles said some riblike structures that rise from below “Westfield World Trade Center is Quieti, president and chief executive of- of the brands are relevant and some street level to above ground, the Oculus going to have a broad range of retailers, fi cer of John Varvatos. “Our store will be a have moved on. “Tiffany and Apple are has about 80,000 square feet of retail from luxury and better brands to main- unique and one-of-a-kind presentation of still very relevant,” he said. Sources said space, on two levels arrayed in a circle. stream retailers to a lot of unique and the brand, tailored to the large and diver- brands such as Giorgio , Tom Retail space will be located in hip stores,” said Andrew Goldberg, a re- sifi ed audience of international and local Ford and Cartier may be waiting for the other parts of the complex. The West tail broker at CBRE. “There will be so visitors we are expecting.” completion of Tower Three in 2016 or Concourse contains 42,000 square feet many people walking through the project “We recognize that there’s a large 2017, where multilevel, street-fronted of retail space, on two levels set behind on a daily basis that you need to cater to male population, and we have some male stores will be located. rib-shaped steel beams. The opening of more than just one tier of customer.” 4 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014

{Continued from page one} our hard luxury business,” euros, or $277.8 billion at cur- Palus said, highlighting the re- rent exchange. It was the best- silience of the watch business performing region year-to- THE in the U.S., and an underpen- date, up 3 percent, followed by etration by Kering’s watch and Europe and Japan, each logging jewelry brands, which include 2 percent growth, putting ma- Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo, ture markets back playing their UNITED Qeelin, Girard-Perregaux and key roles in a global industry. JeanRichard. The Asia-Pacifi c area is ex- “Even a brand like Gucci pected to post 1 percent growth, has some capacity to open some impacted by extraordinary STATES new stores, or to relocate other circumstances and a negative stores,” he added. “A signifi cant currency effect. China posted a proportion of openings will still negative performance — down OF be in the U.S. next year. The U.S. 2 percent — for the fi rst time in market is the number-one mar- recent history, impacted by the ket for luxury in the world. It at- government clampdown on lux- tracts most of our attention.” ury spending and the evolution In the third quarter, luxury of shopping patterns. sales at Kering gained 12 per- Bain also noted that the cent in North America, versus lion’s share of luxury shop- 7 percent in Japan, 5 percent in ping by Americans is done lo- Western Europe and 3 percent cally, in contrast to the Chinese, in Asia-Pacifi c. who spend more than three Ralph Toledano, president times abroad what they spend of fashion at Puig, agreed the at home. And the U.S. could American market shows more become an even more impor- LUXURY promise than other regions, and tant shopping destination for has historically been very re- Chinese tourists following last stores, down 2.7 percent, while As for future drivers of luxu- mestic, and in many cases, will ceptive to European brands and week’s agreement between automotive was up 1.6 percent ry in the U.S., Brand named two experience a brand for the fi rst sensitive to newness and quality. President Obama and Chinese and grocery up 1.8 percent. in particular: Brazil and online. time through digital or whole- “When you come with real President Xi Jinping to increase Spending on luxury accesso- “For Brazilians, who have sale channels,” according to a fashion, people buy it,” he said. the number of tourist visas for ries and apparel closely echoed heavy import duties in their spokesman. Burberry, however, “It’s important for us to have a Chinese visitors. The issue had stock market fl uctuations over country, the U.S. remains the speaks to an even broader audi- very segmented price offer to ad- been a priority for years for the past year, rising 3.8 percent most accessible market for high- ence in the U.S. “Our strategy to dress the needs of people who American retailers, who long in September. Their high-water value products. Online, U.S. de- invest in key fl agship locations, want to access the brand. But envied the busloads of Chinese mark in the past year was a 10.2 partment stores are the leaders. such as the newly opened one you still have room for very high shoppers who fl ooded stores in percent increase in May, and If brands want to access pockets on Rodeo Drive, allows us to quality and very high-end prod- London and . their poorest performance was a of wealth in the U.S., they don’t engage with both the domestic ucts in America — much, much “I think the key point to un- 2.4 percent decline in February. have to build brick-and-mortar and traveling luxury consumer more than in Europe.” derstanding why U.S. luxury MasterCard’s projection for stores, they just have to have a in some of the top global cities He noted that America is a sales are developing the way they holiday spending calls for a 5.4 better online presence.” for luxury shopping.” Recent crucial market for Nina Ricci, are is the consumer feel-good fac- percent uptick in luxury, exclud- She pointed to Richemont’s U.S. store openings include Carolina Herrera and Jean tor,” said Luca Solca, managing ing jewelry, which is expected Web sites for Cartier and Oakbrook, Ill.; ; Paul Gaultier, now concentrat- director at Exane BNP Paribas. to post a 7.4 percent gain. This Montblanc in the U.S., which Washington; , the ed on couture. “This has been supported for a compares to the 3.5 percent in- launched last year, and to Net- Beverly Center in Los Angeles, Gucci chief executive offi- couple of years by rebounding crease expected in total U.S. re- a-porter.com’s headquarters the Miami Design District and cer Patrizio di Marco pointed real estate prices.” tail sales, excluding automotive. in New York and distribution one in New York’s SoHo that’s out during the opening of the ’’

Dior’s newest Manhattan store in SoHo. Bottega Veneta in Boston.

Solca explained that home- “The U.S. macroeconom- brand’s revamped flagship in owners feel richer, making them ic climate is better than the The U.S. macroeconomic climate is Beverly Hills that the U.S. was feel freer to spend. European one, and the stock the first overseas market the “Parallel to rebounding house market performance has helped brand entered after it was found- prices, stock market apprecia- over the last few years,” said better than the European one, and ed 60 years ago. In his view, tion has also been supporting Helen Brand, a director in America has always been a great feel-good,” he adds. “In Asia and the equity research team at the stock market performance has market for luxury. “Sometimes in China, you have growth mod- Barclays in London. we tend to overemphasize the eration, asset price declines — Brand also sees upside helped over the last few years. latest phenomenon, say 20 years both in property and stocks. This growth potential, noting, ago it was Japan, fi ve years ago obviously damages feel-good and “There is a lower penetration of — HELEN BRAND, BARCLAYS China, before that Russia…so de- consumer sentiment.” European luxury companies in pending upon the date, I would According to data compiled the U.S. compared with Europe. center in New Jersey. “And if set for the summer. say the fashion of the moment by MasterCard SpendingPulse For Richemont last year, the there is anyone in a position to Jean-François Palus, group is the States,” he said. “For the and disclosed at the recent U.S. represented 15 percent of take advantage of digital, it’s managing director at Kering, past 15 years, there has been a WWD CEO Summit, luxury ex- overall sales, while for Swatch, Burberry — they are the digital called the luxury market in the constant luxury market within cluding jewelry generated the the U.S. was 8 percent of sales. leaders. The company has also U.S. “very sound” and dynamic, the U.S., especially now because largest increase in U.S. sales The watch industry in particu- recently refurbished its stores underscored by local consump- a number of factors — the econ- in September 2014, growing 8.9 lar is the least penetrated in the in Chicago and San Francisco,” tion and tourists fl ows, with a sig- omy moving forward, the popula- percent over the same month U.S. market, and Rolex remains Brand said. nifi cant increase in Chinese in- tion being so young, the rise of a year ago. Electronics and ap- a big Swiss watch name there.” Burberry has said the U.S. is fl ows offsetting dips in Japanese so-called minorities with higher pliances grew 8.7 percent and Brand noted that jewelry re- a market with a lot of opportu- and Brazilian tourists. disposable income.” lodging was up 6 percent. The mains a “key category” in the nity. “This market is unique in “We have opportunities par- Allyson Stewart-Allen, in- weakest performances within U.S. market, something that has that it’s defi ned by a shopper ticularly for our leather goods ternational marketing expert the sectors were department helped Richemont in the past. who is nearly 90 percent do- business and even more for and ceo at the business consul- ’’ SOURCE: BAIN & CO. DOLLARS CONVERTED FROM EUROS AT CURRENT EXCHANGE WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014 5 WWD.COM tancy international Marketing Michael Kors are all cheaper in Partners, cited a strong appetite america so tourists will tend to for luxury in the u.S., especially [take advantage of] the prices.” of the personalized variety. She She said the luxury proposi- said customers are increasingly tion from brands selling in the looking to make special pur- u.S. will be about exclusivity. chases. “they want to be apart “Something the customer knows from the crowd, to say ‘i spec’d is hard to get, something worn by Outer Limits this, it’s mine’ — even if it’s a the royals or a famous celebrity tion above general consumer birkin bag,” she said. or a Monaco-based magnate.” By Laure GuiLbauLt price index,” according to a in addition, Stewart-allen Meanwhile, the world next report issued on Oct. 31 by noted luxury stores are becom- door — Canada — also offers WHeN WiLL tHe consumer exane bNP Paribas. ing ever more elaborate, bigger enticing growth prospects, cry “uncle!” with regard to the report, prepared by and more luxurious, with brands with and Saks Fifth luxury prices? Luca Solca, Paola bertini and trying to make a statement. as avenue among a multitude of With the richest 1 per- Hui Fan for institutional in- for online, she said it’s an easier retailers set to plant their flags cent of the world’s popula- vestors, cautions that, going sell for luxury goods companies north of the border. tion getting wealthier, lux- forward, this could pose a few compared to high-street firms according to Ledbury ury products still sell out at significant problems. One risk because customers know what research, citing Wealthinsight ever-higher prices. and yet for luxury players is to create they’re getting with luxury. “You data, Canada’s number of high- there are signs — increased a “price umbrella” for entry- know what these brands stand net-worth individuals is expect- competition from labels of- price competitors that offers for, you know about the qual- ed to grow by 9 percent until the fering a lower entry price a greater value proposition, ity, so you have no qualms about end of 2018, reaching 473,426 by point; european consumers according to the report. buying from them.” the end of the year. their com- no longer being able to afford “accessible luxury brands tourists, added Stewart- bined wealth will increase by 22 luxury brands, and Japanese like Michael Kors are creat- allen, will tend to seek out the percent to $2.1 trillion by then. customers turning their back Fendi’s ing a more competitive en- sort of stores in america they “the reality is that Canada is a on luxury products — that Karlito vironment for luxury incum- cannot find elsewhere, or where new market for luxury,” Kering’s brands should be cautious. bag bents, including Gucci and they know the goods are cheap- Palus said. “We plan to really is luxury killing the charm, ,” explained er. “tory burch, Coach and push our business in Canada.” goose that laid the golden $1,685. Madelaine Ollivier, luxury egg? Not necessarily. analyst at Ledbury research. roger Vivier’s rendez Consumers are getting Vous special-edition shoes for this fall retailed more price-savvy, pointed out Ollivier, noting at $2,000, versus $600 for the simple flats. that the brands that add the best experience “they barely made it to the stores because they in the custom-made area will stand out. She were sold out to ViP clients,” said Victoria de praised bottega Veneta, which took its artisans la Fuente, account executive at from italy to New York for three days to offer the buying office Lambert & associates. customers an experience of the company’s in October, Vertu launched its new aster customized service, with a focus on adding mobile phone, which at up to 5,900 hand-stitched crocodile-skin initials to select pounds, or $9,437 at current exchange, for the bags. Customers were invited to watch the version that features more-exotic materials, craftsmanship involved. such as ostrich leather. the maker of luxury Consumers from emerging markets buy smartphones wouldn’t put the product on the european luxury brands as a way to capture market if it didn’t think the product would european flair, and brands that embrace price sell. and last season, there was a waiting list inflation risk pricing their products out of the for Fendi’s Karlito bag charm that costs $1,685. reach of their historic european consumer “if there is any trend, it is to buy up, buy more constituencies and altering their identities, Akris in Miami. special, buy higher quality,” said de la Fuente. the exane bNP report warns. For spring, she bought pieces from ’s “the entry price point of luxury goods is pricy ready-to-wear collection; Céline’s summer the most important decision that houses need coats, which retail at around $3,000, and Saint to make nowadays,” said Pierre-François Le Laurent’s stage jackets, selling at around $5,000. Louët, president of French trends agency “they usually do very well for us.” Nellyrodi. “even if there is a slowdown in the 1 percent’s global wealth has grown China’s growth, the Chinese are buying the to a new record, rising by 8.3 percent to $263 european lifestyle, excellence, a vision of trillion — or a $20.1 trillion hike — between , of creation and tradition. europeans mid-2013 and mid-2014, according to a Credit can no longer afford these products.” Suisse report on global wealth published in exane bNP Paribas’ report highlights October. the richest 1 percent of the world’s the fact that leading brands are out of sync population owns more than 48 percent of with major socio-demographic trends. this global wealth, according to the report, which holds particularly true for the Japanese mar- warned that growing inequality could be a trig- ket, according to Le Louët. “Cheap is chic in ger for recession. Japan,” he deadpanned, adding that, since the “the average price for a designer handbag Fukushima nuclear reactor disaster, there is a rose from $1,500 at retail in 2007 to over $2,000 shift to more necessary spending. “this is dis- now,” observed de la Fuente. She also cited concerting to the luxury brands.” designer sunglasses doubling from an average Luxury prices haven’t reached their limit $200 in 2007 to $450 now. “Carrie bradshaw’s yet, he said, with markets such as indonesia, Manolo blahnik stilettos were around $500 in the Philippines, the arab world and the u.S. 2000. Designer shoes are now more like $1,000.” seeing growth. “the other very important de- “the industry has been very smug about its cision that brands need to make is where to pricing power. Historical analyses show that put their focus, where to expand and where to luxury products have experienced price infla- shut down [doors],” he advised. Gucci in Los Angeles. rio Size of Personal Luxury Goods Market t 2014 Estimate, in billions of dollars.

$80.9B ntonello by a

$22.5B charm $20B $19B $18.7B $16.6B

$12.9B i Karlito bag $11.4B D $9.9B $8.4B $5.7B annaccone; Fen i homas t

United States Japan Italy France China UK South Korea Middle East Russia photo by Dior photo by source: bain & co. Dollars converteD From euros at current exchange 6 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014 WWD.COM Nick Jonas NYC’s Holiday Windows Take Dramatic Turn performing. release week in New York for his By DAVID MOIN and CD, though Jonas is thinking be- MARC KARIMZADEH yond. “I’m in conversation with a few people” on a possible apparel NEW YORK — Lord & Taylor deal, Jonas said. “I think outerwear and Barneys New York last week would work for me, but I don’t want began the flood of holiday win- to rule out any category.” dow unveilings with events that Not to go unnoticed were Lord reflected the two retailers’ dis- & Taylor’s venerable holiday win- tinct personalities. dows. They’re typically traditional, Constantly jockeying to warm and fuzzy holiday scenes. cast a younger image, Lord & This time around, in honor of the Taylor on Thursday recruited fl agship turning 100 this year, Roe singer Nick Jonas as the open- Palermo, L&T’s divisional vice ing act for its event. Jonas, who president of store visuals, cre- has been photographed chan- ated a tableaux fi lled with humor neling Marky Mark, bared his and lots of whimsical elements One of the L&T holiday windows. tamer side, crooning a whole- –– paper sculptures created from JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY some medley of two Christmas classics, “I’ll be Home for Uptown, it took Baz Luhrmann postshow dinner inside a tent at Christmas” and “Jingle Bell A creation at Barneys New York. a single wave of the hand to un- Central Park Zoo. As was to be Rock,” and two songs from his leash Barneys’ Baz Dazzled expected from the director re- new self-titled CD — “Chains” Holiday spectacular. Ice skaters, sponsible for such visual feasts and “Jealous.” A few times, dancing elfs, a marching band as “Moulin Rouge” and “The Jonas went silent, encouraging and two queens — one solar, one Great Gatsby,” the vibe was fairy- the crowd of teens and twenty- lunar — on the second fl oor bal- tale extravaganza –– women on somethings to join in with the conies singing an opera version stilts in glittery gowns serving lyrics they knew by heart. of ’s “Holiday” lit up Champagne, the ground covered After the window curtains Madison Avenue for several min- in fall foliage and a hidden snow were pulled, displaying an aris- utes. Even Thursday night’s rain globe speakeasy, where guests tocratic mansion on a starry couldn’t dampen the festive spirit. could sample wintry treats like night, Jonas was escorted up- “We shot ‘Gatsby’ in Australia, and passion fruit vodka in a snow stairs to the flagship’s third it rained for seven days and we had cone. A capella group Pentatonix fl oor to be greeted by a crowd of to move to the studio,” Luhrmann broke into Nat King Cole’s about 500 shrieking fans queued said. “We shot ‘Australia’ in the des- “Nature Boy,” which led to a med- up to be photographed with the ert and it rained.” ley of Beyoncé and Destiny’s Child

pop star. They also received STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY The event was choreographed hits. The crowd included Victoria a copy of his CD, pre-auto- to perfection, down to Mark Lee’s Justice, Pat Cleveland, Wendi graphed. Even some of the older the pages of books –– requiring scene of red cardinals decorating opening remarks. “Baz directed Deng Murdoch, Lily Kwong, generation swooned. “He’s hot,” more than a casual once over to for holiday, and a tongue-in-cheek me,” the Barneys ceo said. “It Michael Avedon, Lisa Perry, said Liz Rodbell, the president take it all in. The fi ve windows gallery of anthropomorphic animal was quite intimidating.” Victor Alfaro, Public School’s of Lord & Taylor and Hudson’s create a magical tour of the man- portraits, in photo and video form. Dakota Fanning missed out Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Bay. “Our customers are totally sion — there’s a peephole into a All around, there’s freshly fallen on the fun. “I got stuck in traf- Chow and Maria Cornejo. The inspired by what he stands for.” room of ballerina marionettes; a snow and twinkling stars imagined fi c,” she said. “It was the biggest night ended with Luhrmann and “I don’t want anything for library overrun by frolicking mice; through new video wall technology, bummer. I’ll just have to go and wife Catherine Martin ripping up Christmas,” Jonas said. “I just want a garden of fairies and butterfl ies providing a modern twist to what’s see the windows on my own.” the dance fl oor while snowfl akes to spend time with my family.” It’s set under the aurora borealis; a been a holiday classic. The actress made it to the drizzled down on the scene. Italia Independent Lands in SoHo Wooster Teams is displayed in a way that will give Miami gets a lot of interest in South By LAUREN MCCARTHY the customer a feeling of ease when America. In a way, Miami is the cap- With Birchbox they come inside,” Elkann said ital of South America.” NEW YORK — Italia Independent of the store. “Everything will be The company did not have sales NICK WOOSTER is turning his attention to groom- is going American. very explanatory and consistent in projections for the new store. ing products. The eyewear company today will order for the consumer to have a The cofounders believe that the The former men’s fashion director of Neiman Marcus open its fi rst stand-alone store in clear experience about what Italia company’s unique eyewear designs, is now collaborating with Birchbox Man to select his top the U.S., an 850-square-foot fl agship Independent is and the feeling and which incorporate unexpected ma- grooming picks. In addition, Wooster has also created in New York’s SoHo neighborhood. energy of the brand.” terials such as velvet and Swarovski a capsule collection of bags and the requisite dopp kit “At the moment, we’re perceived The New York flagship comes crystals, will resonate with the U.S. that will be featured at Birchbox’s holiday pop-up shop, as a newcomer,” said Giovanni seven years after the brand’s consumer, especially given the cur- which will open on Prince Street in SoHo the fi rst week Accongiagioco, the brand’s co- founding, in 2007, and just over a rent optical market. “The eyewear of December and remain open through Dec. 28. founder and managing director. year since, in June 2013, the com- market is — I wouldn’t say sad, but “I actually come from a long line of barbers,” “Now, we need to jump to the next pany was listed on the Stock it is boring,” said Tessitore. “People Wooster told WWD, adding that his grandfather, uncle level. We’re selling the entire Italia Exchange. While this is not its fi rst think that Warby Parker is an inno- and other family members were all in the trade. “So, Independent concept now.” U.S. presence — Italia Independent vation, but what’s the innovation? when Birchbox approached me about doing a guest Located at 85 Mercer Street, the is sold in 250 optical stores and in Can Warby Parker be considered a box, I jumped at the chance.” store sits next to UGG Australia, Kate department stores such as Barneys brand? No. It’s an eyewear compa- The December box was chosen by Wooster and is part Spade, Vince and Helmut Lang. The New York, Bergdorf Goodman and ny. What Italia Independent brings of the e-commerce company’s subscription service, avail- space, which comprises the ground Saks Fifth Avenue — Elkann antici- is a brand with innovation. We are a able on a subscription basis for $20 a month or $195 a floor and a 250-square-foot mez- pates that this brick-and-mortar unit lot more than just an eyewear com- year. The December box includes an exclusive,Wooster- zanine, features the brand’s entire will have the most impact. “If you pany or another pair of glasses.” designed zipper case in a rugged peacock wool pattern eyewear offering, along with in-store want to become a global brand, you He used Swatch’s rise in the that contains samples of Baxter of California Exfoliating ophthalmic services. In addition to cannot escape the U.S. market,” said Eighties as an aspirational exam- Body Bar, Malin + Goetz Sage Styling Cream, Kiehl’s Oil eyewear, the store houses merchan- Elkann. “We really needed to make ple. “They brought something that Eliminator Deep Cleansing Exfoliating Face Wash and dise from Italia Independent’s past our brand concept available to each is cool, at the right price and inno- Davines NaturalTech Rebalancing Shampoo. collaborations with the likes of Care and every one. This is only possible vative,” he said. In addition to his favorite grooming products, Label, Adidas and Colmar. Interior through making your own fl agship.” All three cofounders cited Ray- Wooster created bags that “serve a lot of needs.” decorations include an overhead Italia Independent comes to Ban as a competitor within the These include a headphone fl ight bag ($42), designed “cloud,” formed by colored and mir- New York with a few goals: to build market. “The goal is to become an to fi t an iPad mini, phone and headphones; a sunglass rored lenses and created in collabo- a bigger U.S. presence and, on a alternative to Ray-Ban, but with a bag ($38), which has compartments for two sets of ration with Divel Italia, an Italian larger scale, change the percep- funnier and much more unique and glasses; a dopp kit for $50; and a driving bag, to carry manufacturer of sunglass lenses and tion of the eyewear industry. On interesting retail experience,” said keys, cigarettes, lighter and other small items. one of the brand’s partners. Prices sit the fi rst count, the brand already is Elkann. Added Giovanni, “Ray-Ban “I will have logged more than 200,000 miles by the end under $497, many at $197, with styles looking toward its second and third is the market leader in the eyewear of the year,” Wooster said, “and I’m obsessed with the idea offered in a wide range of colors and stores, to be located, eventually, in industry. We are, more or less, the of organizing.” materials. Miami and Los Angeles. “New York same price position. What I think “We have always admired Nick Wooster as a taste- In addition to this new piece, is a worldwide destination that will is different is that eyewear, at the maker and believe that his unique style will resonate other branding elements on display get you a lot of attention — from moment, is not considered an acces- among our community of male customers looking for include a table of miniature Fiat Europe, in particular,” explained sory. An aviator [sunglass] was de- the latest and best in grooming. We are excited to 500 cars embedded within a crys- Andrea Tessitore, cofounder and signed in 1934 and is still the best- launch this collaboration and to work on additional ini- tal cube (cofounder Lapo Elkann chief executive offi cer. “If you open selling style. It’s a vintage concept. tiatives in 2015,” said Birchbox cofounder and co-chief is grandson of former Fiat chair- in Los Angeles, you are able to get What we’re trying to do is transform executive offi cer Katia Beauchamp. man Gianni Agnelli). “Everything into the Asian market. Opening in eyewear into accessories.” — JEAN E. PALMIERI SAVE THE DATE MAY 11 – 13, 2015 MIAMI

TO ATTEND: [email protected] 212.630.4212 TO SPONSOR: [email protected] 212.630.4824 8 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014 Elie Saab Steps Out in L.A. don’t like to present to present,” he said. sire and demand it’s time for us to fulfi ll it.” By MARCY MEDINA “It’s the strategy of the company that we That mandate was on display go outside of to sup- Thursday night at Beverly Hills eatery Il BEVERLY HILLS — Elie Saab takes the port a foundation.” Blue Ribbon presi- Cielo, which the company rented out to expression “Go big or go home” serious- dent and couture customer Carla Sands host a 70-person dinner for stylists and ly. The Lebanese couturier and ready- called the event “extremely special,” actresses. “Literally almost everyone we to-wear designer, who, at the relatively and she’s hosted many around town. The know is in the room,” said stylist Jennifer young age of 50 has been in business for most obvious indicator was the standing Rade, who has dressed longtime client 32 years, made his first public appear- ovation Saab received during the fi nale in several Saab creations. ance in the U.S. here last week, followed from the 250 women at the seated lun- There was also ’s longtime by a starlet-studded dinner a day later. cheon in the designer salon. stylist Joseph Cassell, Emily Blunt’s The whirlwind visit was a harbinger The lunch and show were preceded longtime stylist Jessica Paster (there with of things to come — Elie Saab Group by a step-and-repeat during which many Blunt herself), Elizabeth Stewart, Rachel hopes to open stores in Beverly Hills and of them clamored to be photographed Zoe, Tara Swennen, Rob Zangardi and New York City soon as well as deepen its with Saab, and he linked arms with Mariel Haenn, Jeffrey Kim, Estee Stanley relationships with retail partners such as nearly everyone. “All these women, they and Ryan Hastings. Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. come to our shop in Paris, especially the Actress Ahna O’Reilly wore her fi rst “When we go for development, we like clients. Not all, but many, beaded Saab gown to her fi rst Cannes pre- to be big in our scale and our vision. It are longtime clients in both Paris and miere, for “Fruitvale Station” last year. is not like we want to be shy. We want Neiman Marcus. I feel such a warm wel- “I think the attention to the individual re- to be present here and more powerful,” come here,” he said. ally comes through in his work and there’s said Saab over coffee at the Four Seasons “For every designer, you have be out something so sumptuous and delicious Beverly Wilshire Hotel. As he looked out in front of the customer to understand about his designs, whether it’s shorts [she the street-level picture window at Rodeo how she is living. Elie gets out there to was wearing a blue pair from the spring 2014 Drive, he said, “I feel this is now the dress women internationally. He is very collection] or a beautiful wedding gown, he right time for the company to be aggres- smart to make sure he is out amongst his really does it all,” said O’Reilly. sive in the States, not because of the mar- clients when he has the ability,” said Ken In fact, most actresses at the dinner ket, which is always very consistent for Downing, Neiman’s fashion director and were dressed to show off Saab’s more luxury, but because it’s the right time for senior vice president. casual side, whether it was Blunt’s black

Beyoncé in Nicolas L Jebran. Express

Elie Saab at Neiman Marcus. our company to take it to the next level. Downing also noted that without walk- pantsuit with long beaded lace sleeves, And with all this development we have, ing among clients, a designer has a hard the romper version worn by Lily Collins, we try to open our shops also. I hope we time knowing what the customer wants Hailee Steinfeld’s minimal viscose teal can do that soon.” — and what she wants lately are clothes dress or Ellen Pompeo’s white pantsuit. Saab pointed out that his plan is more that transition from day to night. The “It’s the equivalent to putting a name far-reaching than simply opening two success of Saab’s rtw collection — what to a face,” said Steinfeld of the evening. fl agships on the coasts: he’s been study- Downing likes to call “dinner dressing, “You see their process and where they ing the U.S. market for years, with plans or something that’s not as over-the-top as come from. Even just meeting him and to bring an entire in-house infrastructure cocktail or gala but that blurs the lines his family [Saab’s wife Claudine and son to the U.S., from sales to public relations. from day into late day and evening,” Elie Jr. were present] you can tell he’s He also didn’t want to embark on the stems from meeting clients’ needs. a very personal and very caring person. trunk-show circuit without fi rmly estab- “Now the daywear and accessories, You get so excited when you realize how lishing points of sale here. The compa- we try to develop more and more. We many people are involved and what it ny’s plan is to double its U.S. wholesale knew before that women wanted evening takes to create something beautiful.” business in the next few years. Elie Saab bags to wear with gowns, but we like that Said Saab, whose brand awareness has 100 doors of wholesalers worldwide, a woman can spend the day wearing what multiplied after he dressed Oscar winner including 20 in the U.S. and nine compa- we produce from the morning until the for the 2002 ceremony, “My ny-owned retail stores. evening,” the designer said. For instance, presence here can help the relationships Wednesday’s runway presentation of the brand debuted a day handbag collec- with stylists and celebrities because we his spring rtw collection at Neiman’s, tion called Poincaré in July, named after get to know each other.” cohosted by women and children’s or- its Paris store location. In terms of the impact of red-carpet ganization The Blue Ribbon of the Los Saab’s group communications manager, dressing on his business, he noted that Angeles Music Center, was also part of Emilie Legendre, who sometimes trans- most clients were there before the 2002 Saab’s philosophy of meaningful events. lates for the designers, pointed out that Oscars. “It makes the name more popular, “Me, I don’t like to present my collec- “even celebrities have been asking about but we have been in L.A. since 1996. I feel tion outside of fashion week if there’s not shoes and bags to wear, even with just a it’s more image than commercial impact.” L in Charbel Zoe. a charity related to the presentation. I pair of jeans. When you feel so much de- Accessories, with the potential to

WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014 9

WWD.COM

become about 60 to 70 percent of what is es- stand how and when and where and what timated to be a $200 million business across we are up to, so we give it to them in a fashion and fragrance, do have a com- format that’s very editorial and less blog.” mercial impact. Last year Saab hired vice The younger Saab is connecting with president Mauro’’ Grimaldi from Ferragamo his generation, one that he believes is no (before that he was at Valentino) in part stranger to luxury. “Generally speaking, a because of his knowledge of accessories. lot of our generation grew up with luxury “I think we can grow not just 100 percent and now they are interested in more and but 1,000 percent,” said Grimaldi. “The fi rst this is where they start looking at brands step is department stores.” like us which are more exclusive, less Fragrance — the fi rst of fi ve by Beauté institutional. The way we see it in China Prestige International was launched in 2011 now, they have a big interest in the brand — is also a signifi cant earner. With each fra- because the Chinese customer is over this grance (Le Parfum, Eau de Toilette, L’Eeau branded luxury; they want something Couture and Eau de Parfum Intense) esti- more. This is where we can come in.” mated to have annual global retail sales He added, “Today a lot of the youth are of $25 million in very tight distribution really looking up to bloggers-slash-social- channels, the potential, particularly in ites and all these infl uencers. They’re not the Middle East, is signifi cant. A fi fth fra- really credible as journalists, but they do I feel this is now the right time for the company to be aggressive in the States, not because of the market, which is always very consistent for luxury, but because it’s the right time for our company to take it to the next level. — ELIE SAAB

grance, called Resort Collection, is due in what they do. And a lot of them are cus- the spring. And a pure perfume, the most tomers. By choosing them and having expensive type of scent, hasn’t even been them close to the brand and collaborating developed yet. Saab said cosmetics won’t with them on a very friendly basis, this is happen in the next fi ve years. how we push the brand and get closer to He’s also looking ahead to the next gen- the street. For example, we recently did eration, literally. Oldest son Elie Jr., 24, has a collaboration with the Coveteur and developed the designer’s digital business. Chiara Ferragni of The Blonde Salad.” “It was just a natural thing to do, and So what does the elder Saab think of we were one of the fi rst brands to have going public, or even selling his company a social media department four or fi ve one day? years ago,” said Elie Jr. “We got to a point “One day, sure,” he laughs.’’ We have where we need more to say more in a dif- a lot we want to build. And we’ve had ferent form, which is less institutional, a lot of proposals. We are interested to so we decided to add an online magazine hear from people because we must have this year, which really gives more depth someone to support us because we have to the brand and better storytelling to the a lot of investment to put in the next few Looks from Elie Saab’s spring collection. consumer. We see that people want more years. But I will always keep control of

PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA/WIREIMAGE DONATO PHOTOS BY and more from us and they want to under- my company.” Lebanon Express CONSIDERING WHAT Jennifer Lopez did Elie Saab before settling down in New for Donatella ’s fame by donning York, Acra said hers and her colleagues’ that plunging green gown at the Grammys in appeal lies in an “in-between-the- 2000, goodness knows what awaits Charbel cultures approach....We give the Zoe and his Lebanese fashion brethren. Hollywood woman something For this year’s MTV Video Music different, something that she Awards, J.Lo’s body-hugging evening gown, doesn’t get from any other sliced into curvy cutouts and dripping with American or French designer.” silvery sequins, was enough to send the gos- Best known for her dresses sip bloggers into overdrive, putting a new with a fresh, sexy edge, Acra designer on the international fashion radar. argues that while there is no cou- Farther down the red carpet, Beyoncé ture in America, the Lebanese have sported another Lebanese newcomer, managed to blend that part of French Nicolas Jebran, before slipping into a heritage with an American twist. Zuhair Murad gown to accept one of the “That’s what’s real about it,” she said, night’s trophies. adding, “ itself is a blend of cultures This year’s award shows made it clear: and religions. It has the most open-mind- Lebanese designers are America’s new ed people in the Middle East, a very high red-carpet darlings. With Angelina Jolie level of education and a predilection for in Elie Saab at the Oscars, Robin Wright a certain lifestyle that makes people in Reem Acra at the Golden Globes and want to dress up, go party and have fun. Rita Ora in Zuhair Murad at the GQ Men If you ask me what the Beirut woman is of the Year awards, it’s no wonder most like, I will tell you: She’s a sexy one.” Lebanese designers’ Web sites have a spe- Acra reminisced about how, as cial section titled “celebrities.” a child growing up in the Lebanese Murad said his brand has been on a con- capital, she was surrounded by a sistent growth path season after season but fl eet of skilled tailors. “Beirut was acknowledged, “The demand from private the spot where people came to have clients, celebrity stylists, buyers and fashion a dress made,” she said. “That’s the editors has been especially high this year.” way it has always been.” His couture and ready-to-wear collections The next generation is already are up 22 percent and 33 percent, respec- waiting in the wings. Next to tively. Asked about the secret of his success, Zoe and Jebran, Murad recom- the designer claimed it was simple, saying, “I mends adding Karoline Lang want my woman to have that ‘wow’ effect.” to the list of ones to watch A pioneer of Lebanese fashion in the from Lebanon. West who opened the door for the likes of — PAULINA SZMYDKE L Zuhair Murad L Reem Acra L Elie Saab LOPEZ PHOTO BY MICHAEL KOVAC/WIREIMAGE; BEYONCÉ BY LARRY BUSACCA/GETTY IMAGES FOR MTV; REEM ACRA BY GEORGE CHINSEE; SAAB BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE; SAAB BY LARRY BY REEM ACRA BUSACCA/GETTY BY BEYONCÉ IMAGES FOR MTV; MICHAEL KOVAC/WIREIMAGE; PHOTO BY LOPEZ 10 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2014

Stella McCartney in her own design with Jerry Seinfeld.

Luke Evans with Helena Christensen and Kate Upton in Fashion…Yada, Yada, Yada Stella McCartney.

DRAWING A GOOD crowd has Opera and the New York Just kidding! Handler was going forward. Jessica Chastain was a little nervous because never been an issue for Stella Philharmonic. McCartney’s actually on site at Alice Tully interviewed Karl Lagerfeld on it’s not really my thing to be McCartney. It’s in the gene pool. famous friends who couldn’t as an emcee of sorts, with stage at last year’s gala. honored.” Or roasted. Among those gathered Thursday make it left video tributes, a mix nothing but nice things to say Seinfeld is clearly used “We used to be friends with at Alice Tully Hall to see her of the heartfelt and humorous about her girl Stella, but some to headlining. “Now let’s get the Seinfelds,” said Sir Paul, honored with the Women’s begun by Bono: “Stella reached cheap shots for others present to fashion, which is really a taking the stage to present his Leadership Award from the out to a humble male and not. “You probably know subject that interests me,” he daughter with the Women’s Lincoln Center Corporate Fund from the north side of Dublin, him better as Lane Bryant deadpanned after opening with Leadership Award. “But after were Drew Barrymore, Seth Meyers, a man — a boy — who’d almost founder and lead model,” she a plug for his show, “Comedians tonight, I’m not so sure.” Woody Harrelson, Jeff Koons, François- given up on his dreams. Yes, I’m said, zinging Harvey Weinstein. To in Cars Getting Coffee.” “My Ending the entertainment Henri Pinault, Marco Bizzarri, Natalia talking about me.” Then there introducing Stella: “I would say fi rst question about fashion is, portion of the evening on Vodianova, Kate Upton and her were Chrissie Hynde, , break a leg but I don’t want to ‘What’s the difference what a more earnest note was boyfriend Justin Verlander; Lorne , Amy Poehler, insult Heather Mills.” anybody wears, anyway?’” Dhani Harrison, son of George, Michaels, Yoko Ono, and of course, Quincy Jones, Doris Day and Chelsea Was the Friars Club also With that, real fashion queries performing Wings’ “Live Sir Paul McCartney and his wife Handler, who joked about how sponsoring the evening? were off the table as Seinfeld and Let Die” alongside the Nancy Shevell. Co-hosted by Hearst the “vagina part” of her many Act Two featured Jerry let his classic comedy of the SugarTones and students from Corp., the event raised $1.6 Stella McCartney pants was Seinfeld “in conversation” with mundane dominate the line of Juilliard. In tribute to his “big million for Lincoln Center’s 10 prone to rip and said she was McCartney. Pairing a fashion questioning, asking hard- sister,” Harrison tried to resident institutions, including too cheap to pay for a plane designer with a celebrity looks hitting questions, such have a custom bass drum Juilliard, the Metropolitan ticket to New York. to be the template for this event as how McCartney feels with Stella emblazoned about men in extremely eye across it in pink made, interesting socks (she’s but it was delayed not a fan), and why models in Memphis due to a look so angry. “They storm manhole explosion in down that runway like, ‘When front of a FedEx. He DIY’d his I get to the end of this runway, own with pink tape. I’m going to give this audience After that, Stella’s “weird a piece of my mind,’” he said. gang” — Harrelson talking “Then they stop and glare at Hawaiian property with Olivia us — ‘go to hell with you’ — and Harrison; Ono opposite Cathy then they walk back.” Horyn; Luke Evans sandwiched That drew a “boooo” from between Helena Christensen and improbable heckler and Justine Koons — dined on three proud smiler Vodianova. “We courses of vegetarian — not often smile, at Stella’s shows vegan — cuisine. Anyone especially,” she said. in need of a lesson on the McCartney rolled with the difference could ask Harrelson, punches. “It wasn’t too serious, who declined the fi rst course. Woody Harrelson, Drew Barrymore in which is so nice,” she said at The tart had dairy. Seth Myers and Sir Stella McCartney, dinner following the interview. — JESSICA IREDALE Paul McCartney. hugging the designer. “I mean, Jerry is the ultimate WITH CONTRIBUTIONS

PHOTOS BY LEXIE MORELAND PHOTOS BY professional over there, but I FROM TAYLOR HARRIS

A checked dress watercolor for Vogue, 1955. The Spy Who Loved Style A NEW EXHIBITION showcases works illustration. He became a society by the British painter Brian Stonehouse, portraitist, and began working for who served as a spy during World Vogue in 1952 as an illustrator. He FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE War II and later became a fashion died in 1998. The exhibition, which illustrator. Stonehouse, who studied opened Friday in London, runs from WWD.com/eye. art in Ipswich, was a Nov. 14 to Dec. 23. member of Britain’s A trilby “For those collecting Special Operations charcoal original 1950s Executive, a body drawing fashion illustrations, charged with conducting for Vogue, this exhibition of espionage, sabotage 1955. rediscovered work by and reconnaissance Brian Stonehouse is in occupied Europe. a great opportunity Disguised as a to learn more about French art student — American Vogue and Stonehouse was fl uent fashion during that in the language — he decade,” said Philip helped to thwart German Athill, curator and action in France. managing director of For three-and-a- Abbott and Holder Ltd., half months — until which specializes in he was captured works on paper. The and arrested by the selling exhibition of 40 Nazis — Stonehouse original works created communicated with the British army between 1952 and 1962 coincides via a radio tucked in his artist’s box. with the launch of a biography “Brian He served time as a German prisoner Stonehouse: Artist, Soldier, War Hero, A complete outfi t of war, and after the confl ict was Fashion Illustrator,” written by Frederic ink drawing for over, moved to New York. There, he Sharf and published privately. Vogue, 1955. focused on portraiture and fashion — LORELEI MARFIL WWD monday, november 17, 2014 11 WWD.COM

“likes” and followers is still heavily skewed toward Facebook (49.8 percent). Fashion scoops MeMo pad Twitter makes up 21.6 percent, with Google+ hitting 18.5 percent and NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, SOCIAL STAR: Instagram and Pinterest equaling 5.1 PERRY ELLIS SHARES RISE: Shares of Perry [the founder of Shinola] really believes The Association of Magazine Media is percent and 5 percent, respectively. Ellis International Inc. rose nearly in reviving small businesses, giving plumbing the depths of social media While all this is well and good, it 2.8 percent to $23.58 as talks about a people hope and work. It’s healthy and and, using a ranking system, how it should be noted that clicking the “like” possible sale resurfaced on Friday. interesting, and it’s something I want to relates to 166 magazine brands across or “follow” button doesn’t translate According to WWD in August, the father- be part of,” Weber said. Facebook, Twitter, Google+ and into readership — in fact, it’s hard to and-son team of George Feldenkreis and — PAuLINA SZMYDkE Instagram. According to the MPA, the say what it means, exactly. In terms of Oscar Feldenkreis, who have enjoyed a number of page “likes” and followers dollars, “likes” and followers have yet long-standing partnership at Perry Ellis LONDON BOuND: Sass & Bide is ditching for magazines on Instagram is growing to extend to advertising spend in either and, before that, Supreme International, New York Fashion Week to head back at a quicker rate at titles devoted to the digital or print form, but the MPA have been considering a sale of the to its London roots for fall 2015, but it fashion, beauty and travel. Conversely, already knows that. Miami-based company, of which they will be the first time without founders general interest magazines are — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD hold more than a fifth of the shares. Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke. grabbing more “likes” and followers on WWD has learned that, over the The London Fashion Week show will Facebook, Twitter and Google+. THE LAWYERS ALWAYS WIN: The lawyers past few months, the two unveil the first collection In a report that incorporates for Condé Nast’s unpaid interns appear have been quietly speaking For more by Sass & Bide’s new SocialFlow data measuring August to be the true victors of the class-action to possible buyers on their scoops, see design director, Anthony through Oct. 31, the top 10 magazines lawsuit, which was settled in April. own as well as meeting Cuthbertson, a British native in terms of “likes” and followers According to a motion filed in New York with funding sources, such WWD.com. who previously worked with across all four combined networks are federal court, lawyers for the interns as Bank of America and brands including Daks, Max National Geographic (with 56.2 million, and the publisher of titles such as investment banker Peter Mara, Sportsmax, Moncler, the winner by far), Time (20.1 million), Vogue, Glamour and W have settled on J. Solomon, about both a sale of the Burlington, René Lezard and Playboy (18.7 million), The Economist the princely sum of almost $5.9 million. company and alternative options, such Amanda Wakeley. Middleton and Clarke, (18.3 million), Vogue (16.8 million), That might be a decent payday if the as the shedding of non-core assets. who launched the brand in 1999 selling People (12.5 million), Elle (9.6 million), suit involved just a handful of unpaid An individual familiar with their customized denim from a Portobello Glamour (9 million), Cosmopolitan (8.7 workers, but it involved 7,500 interns. reach out to potential buyers said the Market stall, exited Sass & Bide in July, million) and Forbes (8.6 million). Court papers say each intern will get talks are just preliminary discussions after selling the remaining 35 percent of On Instagram, National Geographic between $700 and $1,900, depending on the and that no agreement has been signed the company to Myer, Australia’s biggest came in first again — in fact, it type of internship they had. (For instance, with anyone. Further, with Perry department-store chain, in September dominated all social categories — the salary for a summer internship in Ellis considered the key brand in the 2013 for 30 million Australian dollars, or pulling 8.6 million followers. Vogue the fashion closet of a magazine should portfolio, that leaves a stumbling block $28 million. Myer acquired 65 percent of came in second with 2.9 million, garner between $1,400 and $1,900, while for any buyer: What do you do with the the company for 42.3 million Australian followed by Playboy (1.6 million), GQ a non-closet summer internship would other brands that Perry Ellis owns? dollars, or $42.8 million, in February (1.2 million), National Geographic pull between $1,000 and $1,400. An Another question is what involvement 2011. — PATTY HuNTINGTON Traveler (just under 1.2 million), Teen intern working during the school year the Feldenkreises would have, if any, Vogue (878,687), Time (830,661), Vanity would earn between $700 and $1,250. All in the Perry Ellis brand should it be In a Spin: London footwear label Fair (696,001), InStyle (664,852) and of this is, of course, before taxes.) sold to a new owner. Charlotte Olympia is in a giving mood Seventeen (610,528). If the $5.9 million sum were to be Anita Britt, the company’s chief in the run up to the holidays. Come Facebook’s top 10 were National divided evenly, each intern would get financial officer, declined comment. Dec. 1, the label will debut an online Geographic (32.6 million “likes”), about $780, which pales in comparison — VICkI M. YOuNG slot-machine game called “Spin to Playboy (6.8 million), Time (6.8 million), with what their lawyers likely will Win” on its Web site, charlotteolympia. Vogue (6.1 million), Cosmopolitan (5.6 obtain from the lawsuit. PET-SHOP BOY: “They had too much com. When customers sign up to the million), People (4.9 million), The In their motion, the plaintiffs’ luggage,” said Bruce Weber, explaining why site, they will be able to play the slot Economist (4.7 million), Teen Vogue (4.6 attorneys, from the New York-based firm he didn’t bring his dogs to the European machine in virtual reality, aiming to million), Muscle & Fitness (4.6 million) Outten & Golden LLP, asked the court launch of the pet accessories line on match up images of Charlotte Olympia and Glamour (4.1 million). for the maximum settlement for which he collaborated with Shinola. But shoes and handbags. Those who bring Twitter’s top 10 was a bit different: themselves of 11.11 percent, or $650,000, up three matching styles will win National Geographic (7.6 million plus costs of $10,000 maximum. The a prize, which will include designs followers), Time (6.4 million), The lawyers on the case will seek additional from Charlotte Olympia’s Christmas Economist (6.3 million), People service payments of $10,000 each “in An item from collection, such as the label’s glitter (5.8 million), Vogue (4.7 million), recognition of the services they rendered Bruce Weber’s pet Kitty Flats, Holly Pandora clutch Forbes (3.9 million), The New Yorker to the class and any risks they incurred.” accessories line. bag and Jingle Bell Dolly platforms. (3.8 million), Wired (3.6 million), While the judge likely will OK the Visitors to the site will be able to win Entertainment Weekly (3.2 million) and motion and reward the interns, perhaps prizes every hour of every day from InStyle (2.8 million). the best lesson the plaintiffs learned Dec. 1 through Dec. 12. “During a busy The MPA said that, as of Oct. 31, the was that they might think about going to holiday season with a competitive social-network share of total magazine law school. — A.S. retail landscape…brands are focused on new-customer acquisition. We wanted to ensure that this word-of- his five golden retrievers already had mouth campaign brings new customers given their seal of approval. “They are to Charlotte Olympia,” said Bonnie really particular, very critical. At first, Takhar, president of Charlotte Olympia. they didn’t sleep on the beds because Charlotte Dellal, the brand’s founder and they had their own, but now I can’t get designer, will be counting down to the them off the beds. They love the collars, game’s launch on her Instagram, @ but they go with them into the water charlotte_olympia, and on the label’s For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. all the time, and [the collars] are made Web site. — Nina Jones of leather. And they like the toys. They are really liking the stuff now,” the CARTOON CONTEMPORARY: In its latest photographer said. animation-themed endeavor, fast- Fans had come to Colette fashion chain Forever 21 will Spaces on Thursday night to revive classic Warner Bros. purchase one in a series cartoon characters in an COMMERCIAL of 100 limited-edition apparel and accessories posters, shot and signed collection launching in time REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Est. Missy/Plus Brand; JANE ASHLEY PRODUCTIONS looking for by Weber, who is working for the holidays on Nov. 28. Full service shop to the trade. an In-House Sales Rep. Must have Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 experience & relationships on a documentary about Featuring the mugs w/Dept. & Chain Stores Robert Mitchum, slated of Looney Tunes and Email: [email protected] to premier in 2015. “The Hanna-Barbera favorites JUNIORS Sales Executive - NY based proceeds are going to a such as Bugs Bunny, design/ import company in Missy, 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Plus, and Juniors Woven & Knit charity [Fondation 30 Tweety Bird, Daffy apparel Moderate to Better stores. Menswear Showrooms Need immediately JRS sales person Millions d’Amis], which Duck, Scooby-Doo, D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 with proven and strong relationships helps rescue dogs,” he The Jetsons and The with buyers/management for Volume business. Salary, said, still mourning A Scooby-Doo sweater Flintstones, the 44-piece commission , medical ,vacation . E-mail resume [email protected]. the loss of his own from Forever 21’s new unisex line includes beloved rescue dog, Billie Warner Bros. cartoon- sweaters, Ts, tanks, crop Holiday. “She was my sixth themed collection. tops, socks and loungewear dog. Now, I just have five,” for adults and children and said Weber, showing off the last image he will retail for between $3.90 and $32.90. shot of Billie engrossed in reading “The Designed by apparel maker Jerry Value of a Smile” by Wilbur D. Nesbit. Leigh in partnership with Warner The accessories line, which is Bros. Consumer Products, the line made in the U.S., is also helping small is the latest addition to Forever 21’s businesses in the country. “So many homage to American animation, factories across the Midwest and even following recent collaborations with in the North and South closed when the The Simpsons and Barbie. economy fell through. But Tom kartsotis — REBECCA DANCER REBECCA MINKOFF 272036_RM_WWD 11.17.14 AD 272036_RM_WWD_11.17_SNAP_X1 NOVEMBER 11, 2014 4:09 PM

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