MERYL STREEP a league of her own ralphlauren.com/collection CHANEL BOUTIQUES 800.550.0005 chanel.com ©2016 CHANEL®, Inc. B® ARMANI.COM

800.929.Dior (3467) Dior.com

On Kendall: Pure Color Envy Hi-Lustre Light Sculpting Lipstick in Drop Dead Red. © 2016 Estée Lauder Inc. PURE COLOR ENVY Sculptyour lipswithlight. Hi-Lustre Lipstick DRIVEN BY DESIRE esteelauder.com NEW Vinyl LipColor Pure ColorEnvy Also introducing

©Cartier www.cartier.us - 1-800 -cartier Cartier Magicien HighJewelry Collection

Fendi Boutiques 646 520 2830 Fendi.com 67 WOOSTER STREET NEW YORK

An Olympic medal is the ultimate sporting dream. A lifetime of dedication can be transformed into gold in less than a heartbeat. This summer in Rio, OMEGA’s team of timekeepers will measure the fractions of a second that determine the medal hopes of the world’s best athletes, including Michael Phelps. We will be beside every pitch, pool and track to record their achievements as they aim to fulfill their dreams. Exclusively at OMEGA Flagship Boutiques and selected retailers worldwide

Omega • Visual: X222_215.30.44.21.01.002 • Annonce: 00018 X222_215.30.44.21.01.002 • Doc size: 501.65 x 292.1 mm • Omega • Visual: X222_215.30.44.21.01.002 • Annonce: 00018 X222_215.30.44.21.01.002 • Doc size: 501.65 x 292.1 mm • Calitho #: 07-16-117214 • AOS #: OME_00018 • SG 07/07/2016 • LEFT page Calitho #: 07-16-117214 • AOS #: OME_00018 • SG 07/07/2016 • RIGHT page

prada.com

The New Fragrance The New Fragrance #pradaxprada #pradaxprada Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s LONGCHAMP.COM

AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED AGJEANS.COM women’s style september 2016

64 EDITOR’S LETTER 66 ON THE GRID 68 CONTRIBUTORS 70 COLUMNISTS on Curiosity 103 THE WSJ. FIVE Shake up this fall’s style playbook with one of these standout accessories. 196 STILL LIFE Patti Smith The legendary musician and author shares a few of her favorite things. Photography by Steven Sebring

What’s News.

75 San Francisco Bakery Tartine Branches Out

78 A Guide to Grasse, France’s Fragrance Capital Molteni&C’s Elegant New Writing Desk Victor Glemaud Shifts His Focus to Unisex Knitwear

80 Italian Jeweler Pomellato Fetes an Anniversary

81 A Stylish Kidswear Line out of Spain Furniture Company B&B Italia Celebrates 50 Years British Designer John Pawson’s Luxe Silver Teapot

82 Pairing Crisp White Shirts With Outsize Earrings

84 Getting Cozy With This Season’s Quilted Details Inside Cartier’s Fifth Avenue Flagship Lipstick Takes a Deep, Dark Turn

86 Martino Gamper’s Magnetic Buttons for Valextra Fall’s Hybrid Hiking Boots Wine Site Vinous Maps Napa Valley’s Vineyards A Portuguese Resort Debuts a Susanne Kaufmann Spa

88 The Download: Joan Smalls

90 French Chefs Go Green

94 Q&As With Three Sought-After Facialists

ON THE COVER Meryl Streep, photographed by Brigitte Lacombe and styled by Anastasia Barbieri. Dries Van Noten robe, Littledoe hat and Fred Leighton earrings. For details see Sources, page 193.

THIS PAGE Photographed by Lachlan Bailey and styled by Ludivine Poiblanc. Louis Vuitton trench coat, dress and boots. For details see Sources, page 193. 134 FOLLOW @WSJMAG:

188

178 121

Market report. the exchange. Women’s style issue.

110 TRENCH DRESSING 121 TRACKED: Jordan Roth 134 CLASSIC ROCK A beautifully functional coat elevates As one of the most powerful men in The beginning of autumn brings a any ensemble. This fall, choose one of theater, this Broadway mogul does bounty of sophisticated, sumptuous these updates on a classic. business his way. styles in every texture, from fur and Photography by Arno Frugier By Jesse Oxfeld suede to leather and tweed. Styling by Vanessa Traina Photography by Christopher Leaman Photography by Lachlan Bailey Styling by Ludivine Poiblanc 124 THE BOUILLABAISSE KING For decades Tetou, a restaurant near 144 STREEP SAVVY Cannes, has attracted a famous clien- In this month’s Florence Foster tele eager to savor its signature dish. Jenkins, directed by Stephen Frears, By Jay Cheshes Meryl Streep gives full-throated Photography by Tung Walsh life to an eccentric socialite and self-styled diva—and her uproarious 128 FINDING GLORY off-key singing. By Alex Bhattacharji Suzanne Demisch is one half of Photography by Brigitte Lacombe design gallery Demisch Danant, Styling by Anastasia Barbieri which opens a major new Manhattan space this month. By Jen Renzi Photography by Clément Pascal

Clockwise from left: Photographed by Josh Olins and styled by Clare Richardson. Ralph Lauren Collection cardigan, shirt and pants, Hermès scarf, JJ Hat Center hat and stylist’s own necklace. For details see Sources, page 193. The lobby of Villa La Coste in Provence, photographed by Frederik Vercruysse. A tangle of microphones on the red carpet at the 2016 Tony Awards, photographed by Christopher Leaman. 800-457-TODS 144

“did i love him and hate him, as he predicted? i did.” —laura hawk on slim aarons, p. 172

172

152

Women’s style, cont.

152 ROMANIAN HOLIDAY 166 DEPARTMENTS OF 178 GENDER STUDIES Bucharest-born model Andreea COMMERCE Anything boys can do, girls can Diaconu returns home to guide a New York City’s vaunted department do better, as shown by these tour of her beloved country, all while stores are preparing themselves for menswear-inspired styles. dressed in effortless styles that are the future of luxury shopping—and Photography by Josh Olins ready for real life. will soon face some stiff competi- Styling by Clare Richardson Photography by Angelo Pennetta tion from a couple of out-of-towners: Styling by Emilie Kareh Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom. 188 MODERN MARVEL By Christina Binkley Provence’s Château La Coste, long 164 HOT PLATES Photography by Matthew Pillsbury home to an organic winery and an Alessandro Michele’s new porcelain esteemed art and architecture park, collection with Richard Ginori cel- 172 THE SECRET OF SLIM is now opening a luxury hotel over- ebrates the wonders of nature—and In an exclusive excerpt from Slim looking the 600-acre estate. the romance of the past. Aarons: Women, Laura Hawk, who By Alice Cavanagh By Sarah Medford worked with the photographer for Photography by Frederik Vercruysse Photography by Martyn Thompson more than a decade, reflects on the man behind the lens. By Laura Hawk Photography by Slim Aarons

Clockwise from top left: C.Z. Guest with her son at Villa Artemis in Palm Beach, Florida, photographed by Slim Aarons. Director Stephen Frears, photographed by Brigitte Lacombe. Huntsman jacket, Berluti shirt and scarf, Frears’s own pants and Cordings hat. Andreea Diaconu in Romania, photographed by Angelo Pennetta and styled by Emilie Kareh. Dries Van Noten coat, Salvatore Ferragamo dress, Sabine Getty rings and Lia Di Gregorio ring. For details see Sources, page 193.

editor’s letter PITCH PERFECT

ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS

TUNE-UP Bast, wearing Lanvin, puts across a song with Anubis (also in Lanvin) accompanying on piano, as Who listens skeptically.

OR SOME PEOPLE, nothing is more terrify- Florence Foster Jenkins, whose lack of singing tal- waiting to see how this retail turf war will play out. ing than stepping out onto a public stage—a ent made her a legend in her day. The film is both With autumn nearly on our doorstep, the sea- moment fraught with the possibility of suc- poignant and uproariously funny, and it’s no wonder son’s wardrobes are at last coming into focus. cess or disaster. Our September Women’s that Streep herself calls it “one of the most fun things For inspiration, check out the issue’s sumptu- FStyle issue features several stories about institu- I’ve ever done, without question.” ously photographed fashion portfolios—ranging tions and characters who have made a bold leap into In the coming years, New York City will provide from menswear-inspired styles to model Andreea the spotlight, proof that facing critical exposure can the backdrop for a different sort of public drama: a Diaconu’s chicly attired tour of her native Romania. be a defining experience. high-stakes battle between the city’s department Whatever new projects you embark on this fall, In this month’s Florence Foster Jenkins, a movie stores. Our article delves into how retail behe - remember to dress the part before making your way directed by Stephen Frears, our cover star—the peer- moths Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom are opening into the limelight. less Meryl Streep—plays a woman who never shied palatial new locations in Manhattan, cutting into away from taking center stage. In the film’s title territory previously commanded by native stal- role, an eccentric Manhattan socialite who was once warts like Barneys, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Kristina O’Neill known as “the world’s worst singer,” Streep captures Goodman (which are, in turn, revamping their own [email protected] the near-pathological obliviousness of the real-life stores). Shoppers and industry watchers alike are @kristina_oneill

64

EDITOR IN CHIEF Kristina O’Neill

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Magnus Berger

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Knutsen VP/PUBLISHER Anthony Cenname ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Stephanie Arnold MANAGING EDITOR Brekke Fletcher ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/LUXURY Alberto E. Apodaca DEPUTY EDITOR Elisa Lipsky-Karasz BUSINESS DIRECTOR Julie Checketts Andris MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR/LUXURY-EU Omblyne Pelier DESIGN DIRECTOR Pierre Tardif EXECUTIVE FASHION DIRECTOR Claudia Silver PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Jennifer Pastore BRAND DIRECTOR Caroline Daddario BRAND MANAGER Tessa Ku FEATURES EDITOR Lenora Jane Estes MAGAZINE COORDINATOR Suzanne Drennen STYLE DIRECTOR David Thielebeule LUXURY SALES COORDINATOR Robert D. Eisenhart iii

ART DIRECTOR Tanya Moskowitz EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN, NEWS CORP Rupert Murdoch SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Damian Prado CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, NEWS CORP Robert Thomson CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, DOW JONES & COMPANY William Lewis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Thomas Gebremedhin EDITOR IN CHIEF, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Gerard Baker COPY CHIEF Ali Bahrampour SENIOR DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Michael W. Miller PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Scott White EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, WSJ. WEEKEND Emily Nelson RESEARCH CHIEF Randy Hartwell HEAD OF GLOBAL SALES, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL SENIOR MARKET EDITORS Trevor Fellows Isaiah Freeman-Schub, Laura Stoloff SENIOR VP MULTIMEDIA SALES Etienne Katz ASSOCIATE MARKET EDITOR Alexander Fisher VP MULTIMEDIA SALES Christina Babbits, Chris Collins, John Kennelly, Robert Welch ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Meghan Benson VP VERTICAL MARKETS Marti Gallardo EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Sara Morosi SVP STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS Evan Chadakoff VP AD SERVICES Paul Cousineau JUNIOR DESIGNER Caroline Newton VP INTEGRATED MARKETING Drew Stoneman FASHION ASSISTANTS VP CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS Colleen Schwartz Giau Nguyen, Lizzy Wholley EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MULTIMEDIA SALES/ASIA Mark Rogers EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, GLOBAL EVENTS Sara Shenasky PHOTO ASSISTANT Amanda Webster MANAGER, GLOBAL EVENTS Diana Capasso CONTRIBUTING EDITORS AD SERVICES, MAGAZINE MANAGER Don Lisk Chelsea Cardinal, Michael Clerizo, AD SERVICES, BUREAU ASSOCIATE Tom Roggina Julie Coe, Kelly Crow, Jason Gay, Jacqui Getty, Andrew Goldman, Howie Kahn, Joshua Levine, Sarah Medford, Meenal Mistry, Clare O’Shea, Kavanaugh Oktavec, Michelle Peralta, Sarah Perry, WSJ. Issue 74, September 2016 Women’s Style, Copyright 2016, Christopher Ross, Fanny Singer, Dow Jones and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction in whole or in Dacus Thompson part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. Magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for CONTRIBUTING SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Weekend Edition Andrea Oliveri and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 1-800-JOURNAL SPECIAL THANKS Tenzin Wild (1-800-568-7625), send email to [email protected] or write us at: 200 Burnett Road, Chicopee, MA 01020. For advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800-843-0008, email [email protected] or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com.

wsj. magazine on the grid MERYL STREEP A snapshot view of the Hollywood legend and star of Florence Foster Jenkins.

19 Streep’s unmatched number of Oscar nominations for 10FILMS IN acting (Katharine Hepburn WHICH and Jack Nicholson come STREEP closest, each with 12). SINGS, including this month’s Florence Foster Jenkins, NUMBER OF LIVING Silkwood, Into ACTORS who’ve won three the Woods and Academy Awards for act- 2 Postcards From ing—Daniel Day-Lewis, Meryl NUMBER OF TIMES STREEP the Edge. Streep and Jack Nicholson. UTTERED THE WORD “THANK” 3 in her 1980 Oscar acceptance speech (Best Supporting Actress, CHILDREN, WITH HER 1969 Kramer vs. Kramer). HUSBAND, DON GUMMER: First collegiate 4 Henry, Louisa, Grace and Mamie. production, Miss Julie 6 1975 TIMES YEAR WHEN STREEP in her 1983 Oscar acceptance speech 1977 EARNED HER (Best Actress, Sophie’s Choice). First feature film role, MASTER’S DEGREE from the Yale School Julia of Drama. “Streep it up” was an expression 11 used by Yale classmates TIMES 2009 in lieu of “Step up in her 2012 acceptance speech Julie and Julia your game.” (Best Actress, The Iron Lady). For Music of the Mary Heart, Streep took a crash Louise Streep The actress’s given name. NUMBER OF FOX $3.5 course in violin, Her mother started calling her BILLION 2ANIMATED COMEDIES Meryl (from “Mary L”) when Total global box office gross for her Streep has appeared in practicing she was still a child. 52 feature films (adjusted for inflation). (The Simpsons; King of the Hill). six hours a day to learn Bach’s Concerto “Meryl Streep, of The in D Minor. course.” Response from Hillary Clinton Virgin when asked on Live With Kelly and Michael NUMBER0 OF Mary FILM SEQUELS Streep’s first role, at who she would most Streep has appeared in. age 6, in a Nativity play. want to play her in a movie. In the same interview, Clinton also 8 shared a secret ROLES BASED ON OR talent: “sing- 111,000 INSPIRED BY REAL FOLLOWERS OF PEOPLE, including ing badly, but @TASTEOFSTREEP, an Instagram Karen Silkwood, feed featuring images of the actress Margaret Thatcher enthusiasti- emerging from or surrounded by food. and Julia Child. cally.” FROM TOP TO BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT: PETER MOUNTAIN/©WALT DISNEYCOLLECTION/GETTY STUDIOS IMAGES;MOTION © PICTURES/COURTESYTECH GADGETS/ALAMYOF EVERETT STOCK COLLECTION;PHOTO; PHOTOTHEJOE KLAMAR/AFP/GETTY BY SIMPSONSABC ™ PHOTOIMAGES; AND ARCHIVES/ABCMIREK© 1994 TOWSKI/DMI/THEVIATTCFFC GETTY ALLLIFE IMAGES; RIGHTSCOLLECTION;PICTURE JIM RESERVED;JONATHANSMEAL/BEI/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; FOX; WENK/©COLUMBIASAMANTHA PICTURES/COURTESY RAYE/@TASTEOFSTREEP;WILLIAM OF ABC EVERETT BAKER,PHOTO ARCHIVES/ABCCOLLECTION;1974/YALE HOWARD REPERTORYVIA KINGSNORTH/GETTY THEATER;GETTY IMAGES;IMAGES; MELINAALEX MARA/THEBAILEY/©WEINSTEIN COMPANY/COURTESYWASHINGTON EVERETTPOST VIA GETTY IMAGES

66 wsj. magazine september 2016 CONTRIBUTORS

BY SARA MOROSI

TEAM STREEP Clockwise from top left: Writer Alex Bhattacharji; Brigitte Lacombe holding a 1983 photo she took of Meryl Streep; stylist Anastasia Barbieri.

STREEP SAVVY P. 144 Brigitte Lacombe, who shot the portraits of Meryl Streep for this month’s cover story, has been photographing the legendary actress for decades, ever since the two were introduced on the set of the 1979 film Kramer vs. Kramer. “It was a great stroke of luck for me that we met so early in our lives and careers,” says Lacombe. “I admire her as a woman, a mother, an activist and, of course, as an actress.” Stylist Anastasia Barbieri expected to have only a limited time with Streep to select looks for the shoot. Instead she got an hour. “I felt so rewarded that she tried on so many pieces,” Barbieri says. “It seemed like she had fun picking out the clothing.” Alex Bhattacharji, who wrote the story, found Streep remarkably down to earth. “Few stars—few people—are as genuinely uninterested in flattery or praise as she is,” he observes. At the debut screening of Streep’s new film, Florence Foster Jenkins, he noticed the actress happily obliging every autograph seeker and selfie taker on the red carpet. “It was as if it were her first premiere,” he says.

CHRISTINA BINKLEY CHRISTOPHER LEAMAN ALICE CAVANAGH MATTHEW PILLSBURY Writer Photographer Writer Photographer departments of commerce p. 166 tracked p. 121 modern marvel p. 188 departments of commerce p. 166 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF BRIGITTE LACOMBE; LOIS CONNER; MAYA HANDLEY; COURTESY OF CHRISTOPHER LEAMAN; DOUG PIBURN; COURTESY OF ANASTASIA BARBIERI; COURTESY OF ALEX BHATTACHARJI

68 wsj. magazine soapbox THE COLUMNISTS WSJ. asks six luminaries to weigh in on a single topic. This month: Curiosity.

JOSEPH TARYN MUSSIE JANE MARK NAOMI GORDON- SIMON GEBRE GOODALL HADDON POMEROY LEVITT

“I’m a firm believer in “My father obsessively “As a deaf-blind child, “I was totally curious “In my novel The Curious “We have a long way to the scientific method. documented his life. I could not sit back and as a child. I once took Incident of the Dog in the go in raising our girls in That’s the great part So from a very young observe people and worms to bed, wonder- Night-Time, the main a similar fashion to our about science—any con- age, I experienced a events unfolding in ing how they walked character, Christopher, boys and vice versa. We clusion is up for debate. larger world through his front of me. I know my without legs. I watched says something like, ‘I must work on teach- Problems arise when Kodachrome slideshows, surroundings primarily intently as they moved think there are enough ing boys intuition, and you get too attached to which detailed his through the senses of about. Chimpanzees are things in one house to we must give girls the an answer, even in the travels to Afghanistan, touch, smell and taste. very curious too. If they keep you interested for a freedom to explore their face of new information Iran, Russia, Thailand So, for me, curiosity come across a hole in a whole lifetime.’ There is curiosity in the same or experiences. I find and beyond. He was was a means of staying tree, they want to know deep truth in that. I love way as boys. I’ve been that among the people also a news junkie. So I attuned to the world. It what’s inside. Curiosity the idea that curios- thinking a lot recently I know, the most intelli- was exposed to all the was also a way to feel a is supposed to be a ity isn’t always about about the success of gent ones are those who troubles of the world in part of the world of my measure of intelligence, increasing your range or chefs. Take the annual ask questions more than vivid color from day one. peers, so that I didn’t but it’s difficult to say. traveling to new places. list of the world’s 50 they make statements. But I was also pushed to become the primary Intelligence is the way When I was young, I best restaurants. If you They remain curious, look beyond the readily object of attention you express curiosity found biology very bor- notice, it’s one percent even about things they visible. Everything had and, possibly, ridicule. and the lengths you’ll ing. I was fascinated by populated by female know to be true. There an underbelly—gover- Exploring an object or go to satisfy it. We’re space, as was common chefs. I don’t want to are so many opinions out nance, justice, even the place meant inviting always coming up with with every small boy of totally break it down to there, now more than East River. I remember others to join me in the new questions. Science my generation. We were gender—it’s more about ever, often based on a big the stories of pinball activity and to see me thinks it’s got the all looking up. We were masculine energy and game of telephone. The machines resting at as a curious child, not answer to the appear- all waiting to land on the feminine energy—but substance of a story can the base of the East one to pity because I was ance of the universe moon. But then I began it’s interesting. Our get distorted or reduced River. Mayor Fiorello different from them. with the big bang, but to realize that one of the society values the to a sound bite—it’s what La Guardia had rounded Technology has had a that leads me to ask, most exciting frontiers pioneering spirit, the gets retweeted. So I find them up and smashed dramatic impact on how ‘What came before the in science was a combi- more masculine kind of that if I really want to them with sledgeham- I explore the world as an big bang?’ I still have a nation of genetics and curiosity, of putting your know something, I have mers as a protest against adult. For instance, there lot of questions. What cell biology. We think mark on something—the to be curious and make the machines, which are times when I want will happen to me as that the most exciting conquistador. It’s a dif- the effort to look into it were being positioned to know what’s going on I get older? What will things in the universe ferent kind of curiosity myself. And acting itself as corrupting chil- in town without having happen to me when I happened 14 billion with feminine energy, is fundamentally about dren. I guess I’m led by to wander around with die? That’s my biggest years ago, but the most a kind of creative prob- curiosity—trying to anxiety, fear and a want my guide dog, and the curiosity and has been astonishing things are lem solving—I’m not think about a situation to see everything. The internet empowers me for a long time. But you happening in our fingers. looking to reinvent the other than your own, universe delivers a lot of to do just that.” can’t find an answer. Curiosity is often a case wheel with my cooking. being someone else.” unknowns. But humans It’s unknowable.” of just looking harder— For me, it’s not about crave certainty, no mat- being open to the world delving into uncharted ter how falsely based.” that’s immediately territory.” around you.” Simon is an artist. Her work Gordon-Levitt is an actor goes on view at New York’s Goodall, the founder of the Jane Haddon is an author. A col- Pomeroy, a chef and restaura- starring in the film Snowden, Park Avenue Armory in Gebre is president of DeafBlind Goodall Institute, is an etholo- lection of his stories, The Pier teur, has a cookbook, Taste & opening in September. mid-September. Citizens in Action. gist and anthropologist. Falls, was released in May. Technique, out in September.

70 wsj. magazine

the world of culture & style what’s news. september 2016

food network SWEET SUCCESS For the San Francisco–based bakery Tartine, this month’s debut of its monumental Manufactory marks the beginning of a major expansion. Next up: L.A.

BY GABE ULLA PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE JOHNSON

T’S ABOUT KEEPING it simple,” says pastry chef Elisabeth Prueitt when describing Tartine Manufactory, a 6,000-square-foot space in San Francisco’s Heath Ceramics building that will house a restaurant, bakery, ice cream station Iand coffee shop. Given the scope of the endeavor, it’s easy to question its simplicity. But Prueitt knows a thing or two about feeding people in the Bay Area: In 2002, she and her husband, Chad Robertson, opened a modest bakery on Guerrero Street named Tartine. In the years since, the exceptional quality of Robertson’s breads and Prueitt’s confections has made it a sensation. Now the duo is not only launching San Francisco’s Tartine Manufactory—set to open in the Mission District in early August—but also planning an even bigger outpost in downtown Los Angeles, which will debut in late 2017. Prueitt and Robertson started working on Tartine Manufactory in 2014. A year ago, they explored a merger with another Northern California artisanal titan—Blue Bottle Coffee. The idea was to cross- pollinate and expand across the globe. But within months, the partnership fizzled. Both sides issued a statement in December 2015 that expressed how “remaining separate companies makes the most sense.” From the moment the Blue Bottle plans dis- solved, Prueitt and Robertson went full throttle on the Mission project. Designed by the L.A.-based studio Commune, the Manufactory celebrates the handmade. “It’s right in the name,” says Robertson. Two-thirds of the indus- trial space is devoted to food preparation. “The point is for you to be able to see the process behind every- thing,” says Roman Alonso, principal at Commune. “You’re eating inside a factory, but it should be an elevated experience.” Achieving that came down to the details and finishes: patinated metals, Noguchi PERFECT PAIR Elisabeth Prueitt and lamps, Douglas fir wood and custom clay tiles that Chad Robertson, Heath Ceramics (the San Francisco–based design the couple behind the company whose tile factory is in the same building) Tartine Manufactory, Bill Sofieldfor Baker in front of their Heuft produced specifically for the project. thermal oil oven. Tartine Manufactory is the kind of company that f u r n i t u r e • f a b r i c • accessories t o l o c a t e t h e n e a r e s t s t o r e o r s h o w r o o m Robin Petravic, the owner of Heath Ceramics, was > v i s i t bakerfurniture.com o r c a l l 1 800 592 2537

wsj. magazine 75 what’s news

hoping would occupy the space. use water buffalo milk and Jersey cow He’s spent the past four years milk to make soft serve and a gelato-style making sure the building’s ice cream that’s ultrasmooth,” she says. tenants share a commitment to Prueitt wants people to instantly detect the craft. “The Heath Building is a ingredients in the ice cream they’re tasting: far cry from the factories of old, “It baffles me how so many places make stuff but we want to celebrate rather that doesn’t have strong, fresh flavors.” The than hide what manufacturing ice cream, which they will serve in bright still goes on in the Bay Area,” Heath Ceramics bowls, will be made from Petravic says, pointing out that milk delivered fresh to the Manufactory Small Trade Company, whose each morning. “I don’t think I’ve seen any studio is on the second floor, place that does that,” she says. makes the aprons for Tartine THE CRAFT O F C O O K I N G According to Robertson, the Manufac- Manufactory’s staff. Above, from left: The Small tory’s appliances—from the Heuft oven to Trade Company studio, While the Manufactory con- where the Tartine aprons the dough mixer—are new to both the Tar- sists of many moving parts, the are made; a banquette in tine team and the West Coast. The Heuft aim is to make the experience Tartine Manufactory. oven uses thermal oil that’s as straightforward as possible extremely heat retentive. The for customers and to create the shortest pos- dough mixers feature built-in sible distance between maker and user—from computers that record data the farmer who delivered the grain to the per- on energy revolutions and son buying the bread. During the day, guests resistance. He describes how can stop into the 120-seat space for sandwiches, “we’ll be able to try things wholesome dishes and pastries. “We want to out and, when successful, make the absolute best version of these basic send that information to items,” says Robertson. “At lunch, I always find other Tartine Manufactories myself craving just a bowl of broth with beans SAN FRANCISCO T R E A T S so they can replicate it.” From left: Dishes from the and greens and a hunk of bread. It’s surprisingly Tartine Manufactory cafe; Robertson’s breads will hard to find.” Tartine Manufactory will offer Tartine Cookies & Cream now be available throughout similar dishes, which guests served in custom Heath the day at both locations. Ceramics bowls. can eat in the dining room, as (At the original Tartine, it well as ready-made meals that was available only after 4:30 p.m.) All of people can quickly pick up. Robertson’s bread making is now moving In that same spirit of effi- to Tartine Manufactory—with over seven ciency, breakfast and lunch types of wheat and rye grains milled daily services will avoid à la min- right across the street—while the flagship’s ute cooking. “We’ll always production will shift further in the direc- have some roasts, porchetta, tion of a patisserie. vegetables and salads com- Tartine Manufactory will also be a ing out of the kitchen—things testing ground for products that Prueitt you don’t need to make to and Robertson want to widely distribute, order,” says Prueitt. She and including the ice cream and a new line of Robertson have hired chef coffee produced in collaboration with Chris Sam Goinsalvos, an alumnus Jordan, an expert in sourcing specialty of New York’s bustling Il Buco beans. “Chad and I have always found our- Alimentari e Vineria, to run THE ART OF IT ALL selves saying, ‘Can’t we make something the savory operation. Artist Matt Dick’s Small with shelf life?’ ” says Prueitt. “We’d prefer At dinnertime, “we’ll go Trade Company studio, one that to opening 20 cafes.” of Tartine Manufactory’s full-on, with liquor and wait- upstairs neighbors in the The opening of the Manufactory marks ers,” says Robertson, whose Heath Ceramics building. Prueitt’s return to the Tartine operation. daytime baking area will serve After helping put the bak- as a kitchen at night. Prueitt ery on the map in its early will oversee the sweet side of years, she spent most of the the menu, putting her touch on standards such past decade at home, caring as blueberry crisps and sundaes. To encour- for the couple’s 9-year-old age sharing, the kitchen will use custom-made, daughter, Archer, who has heat-resistant clay pots that can be placed on cerebral palsy. This is the the stove and then dropped on guests’ tables. “It first big step in a project should be about fun,” says Prueitt, who pictures whose ambition requires a stream of activity, with items popping on and both Prueitt’s pragmatism off counters and diners passing around pots and and Robertson’s tendency to plates. Prueitt will also unveil Tartine Cookies BAKED GOODS dream. “We work best when From left: Peach pie with & Cream, the ice cream she’s been tinkering fior di latte ice cream; we divide and conquer,” with over the past few years. “We’re going to tabletops in the Manufactory. says Robertson.

Tan Calf Hammock Bag, 2016 Shop LOEWE.com 76 wsj. magazine what’s news

neighborhood watch MAKING SCENTS Set near the French Riviera, the town of Grasse is the world’s perfume epicenter, thanks to its fragrant DavidWebb.com 844-811-WEBB fields of Rosa centifolia (May rose) and Jasminum grandiflorum (jasmine). Among the celebrated “noses” crafting blends there is Grasse native Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, who used a high-tech CO2 extraction method to create the new Les Parfums Louis Vuitton collection, launching in September—the house’s first fragrance venture in 70 years. Here, a look at the region’s sites and sources. —Katie Becker

1 on trend Christian Dior’s La Collection Privée EASY r a s s La Colle Noire g e BREEZY fragrance was inspired by the Dior château in nearby A decade after his Montauroux and first menswear is made with Grasse 4 collection debuted May roses. 1 2 in 2006, Haitian- 2 born designer Victor Louis Vuitton’s new Glemaud, 38, has Grasse facilities, called Les Fontaines turned his focus to Parfumées, feature 3 unisex knitwear. The 350 plant species. seven-piece collection for his eponymous 3 label incorporates From the original Chanel No. 5 to the cutouts and slits that new Chanel No. 5 reference artist Lucio L’Eau, for the past 95 years, the same Fontana’s mid-century fields in nearby slashed canvases. Pégomas have “I wanted to show supplied the house. skin in a different 4 way that feels sensual c a n e s Grasse producer n and quiet,” Glemaud Le Domaine de says. For details see Manon provides Dior exclusively with Sources, page 193. jasmine and rose for —Laura Stoloff its fragrances.

object of desire PRIVATE SECRETARY Along with ringleader Ettore Sottsass, Italian designer Michele de Lucchi, 64, was a co-founder of the irreverent 1980s collective the Memphis Group. But his elegant new writing desk for Molteni&C bears little resemblance to the colorful, high-kitsch pieces he was known for then. Crafted of Slovenian oak, the clean-lined Secretello updates the silhouette of the classic collectors’ display cabinet, with a glass bonnet top and fall front that open seamlessly with a deft pull. De Lucchi’s minimalist design brings Cora Emmanuel an element of poetry to the tech-driven trend of compact workstations.

$9,415; available for October delivery, moltenigroup.com. —Sarah Medford FROM TOP: F. MARTIN RAMIN; ILLUSTRATION BY MARINA MUNN; COURTESY OF MOLTENI&C

78 wsj. magazine what’s news

180-million-year-old black fossil often worn for BAUBLE HEADS mourning in Queen Victoria’s day. Colorful offerings “If I hadn’t become a designer, I would have been designed by Pomellato creative a psychologist,” says Castaldo, 49, with a laugh, ges- director Vincenzo turing to the portrait of Sigmund Freud that sits on Castaldo, below. his uncluttered desk. He began his jewelry career Pomellato rose- gold pendants and after a chance meeting with Pomellato’s then cre- rings. For details see ative director, Sergio Silvestris. “Sometimes you Sources, page 193. experience a click,” he says. Born in the Tuscan city of Lucca, Castaldo studied architecture before being drawn to Milan’s heady ’80s atmosphere. “Fashion was very closed and elite back then,” he says. He earned a fashion degree at Milan’s Istituto Marangoni, during which time he got to know designers Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Jil Sander’s Rodolfo Paglialunga. For 15 years, he worked for Romeo Gigli and Dolce & Gabbana, before making the leap to Pomellato in 2002. The brand was officially founded in 1967 by Pino Rabolini, who hailed from a family of goldsmiths. According to company lore, he conceived of the idea of jewelry with a seasonal, prêt-à-porter sensibility while at the Bar Jamaica, which attracted the period’s most ambitiously modern artists, including architect Luigi Caccia Dominioni and writer Umberto Eco. With the whimsical humor that would become a house hallmark, Rabolini adopted the Italian word for a dap- ple-gray horse as the company name. In 2013, Kering Group acquired a majority stake in the Pomellato Group, which also includes the Dodo brand. Today, Pomellato has 65 stand-alone stores. Castaldo, who was named creative director in 2015, and Pomellato Group CEO Sabina Belli tapped in-demand Milan- based Dimore Studio to design the latest: a revamped flagship on Milan’s via Montenapoleone CReatiVe BRieF the largest bamboo maze that opened in May. in the world. “The journey, Everything by Pomellato not the center, is the goal,” is handcrafted in an atelier HIDDEN GEM says Castaldo, reflecting on the city’s via Neera, home on the experience one sun- to over a hundred goldsmiths As Pomellato marks the baked June morning. and jewelers, many of whom Castaldo takes a similarly are dubbed figlio d’arte (“chil- 15th anniversary of its Nudo contemplative approach to dren of art”), who have passed collection, its creative Pomellato’s tactile designs, the baton from father to son. A which feature seldom-used semiprecious stones like collection of gemstones is kept in a nearby vault, and director Vincenzo Castaldo chrysoprase, tanzanite and color-change garnet. “A a dedicated gem hunter journeys the globe in search gives a rare interview. gem has its own profile and beauty that you need to of stones that are in keeping with the house’s organic exalt,” he says. “The process isn’t always logical. You aesthetic. Castaldo often exchanges off-the-cuff have to let things happen.” WhatsApp messages with his artisans when he has BY KERRY OLSEN The results span the realm of fantasy geology: a moment of inspiration, say, while riding the tram. The Sabbia collection features burnished rose- “My designs are not about showing off or status or gold rings scattered with pavé white and brown diamonds and wealth,” says Castaldo, who prefers to INCENZO CASTALDO, creative director of diamonds like flecks of sand and bracelets with spend weekends away from the city in his bolt-hole by the Milan-based jewelry house Pomellato, black diamonds that call to mind Stromboli’s Lake Maggiore, on the Swiss frontier. He compares has just gotten very lost—on purpose. He idyllic volcanic beaches. For the brand’s Nudo col- his work to a journey between Milan and Rome: “The recently spent hours wandering through lection, which celebrates its 15th anniversary this logical approach is to take the [high-speed train] Va 20-acre maze near Parma, Italy. Conceived by year, he designed a solitaire pendant in a kalei- Frecciarossa, but sometimes it’s better to pause the publisher, bibliophile and art collector Franco doscope of stones including blue topaz, peridot, en route in Capri. I’ll arrive eventually,” he says. Maria Ricci, the Labirinto della Masone is made rhodolite garnet and Madeira quartz. He has also “Sometimes the points you need to meet don’t always

from 200,000 bamboo plants and purported to be worked with history-laden materials like jet, a join up so easily, but when they do it’s all worth it.” FROM LEFT: F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO; COURTESY OF POMELLATO

80 wsj. magazine what’s news

closet case YOUTHFUL LOOKS

the inspiration SLOW BREW On November 24, London’s Design Museum will open the doors to its new Spanish designer Laia Aguilar’s location on Kensington High Street. British career in children’s fashion was designer John Pawson spent six years born out of necessity. “When I got working on the airy 117,090-square-foot pregnant with my eldest child, I space. And in about half that time, he’s couldn’t find baby clothes I liked,” created something equally striking, though says the former advertising executive, 40. So she created Bobo Choses, a Euro-chic it measures only about 49 square inches: kidswear line that now boasts a celebrity clientele. But two years ago, disagreements a new silver teapot for his personal use. with her then–business partner prompted Aguilar to leave the label and launch a “Objects take nearly as long to design as new brand more in tune with her own vision. That venture, the Animals Observatory, buildings,” he explains, “because you’ve got debuted with the spring 2016 collection and was quickly picked up by select children’s a prototype in your hand, and you can keep stores worldwide. Aguilar’s fall offering, available this month, draws inspiration from on going until it’s absolutely right.” 1970s New York and pays tribute to her personal icons, including Swiss-French archi- Others can now benefit from Pawson’s tect Le Corbusier, whose visage repeats across trousers and obsession with spout, handle and flow; the DRESS UP turtlenecks. Crucial to Aguilar’s creative process are her chil- boutique Belgian brand When Objects From top: The Animals Observatory dren, Pablo, 10, and Adriana, 6, who act as models and critics. Work is producing the vessel, in sterling designer Laia Aguilar at home with her “I’d like the Animals Observatory to be like Proust’s madeleine,” silver ($6,250) and silver plate ($2,300), as husband, children and she says, “something that one day brings childhood flooding well as matching cups and a tray. dog; pieces from her fall 2016 collection. back.” theanimalsobservatory .com. —Thomas Gebremedhin whenobjectswork.com. —Sarah Medford

study in design LIVING HISTORY Furniture company B&B Italia turns 50 this year, marking the event Coronado, 1966 Serie Up, 1969 Le Bambole, 1972 Grande Papilio, 2009 Tobi-Ishi, 2012 Factory-made of Gaetano Pesce’s curvy Resembling one Part of Naoto All smooth edges with a new book and polyurethane foam, foam chair is meant to giant cushion, Mario Fukasawa’s Papilio and polished surfaces, documentary on the firm’s the Coronado line by recall a woman’s Bellini’s inventive sofa series, the chair’s Edward Barber and history. Here, a look Afra and Tobia Scarpa figure and the otto- debuted with signature butterfly Jay Osgerby’s table at some of the company’s was on the cutting man her metaphorical a scandalous ad silhouette is designed is modeled after the edge at a time when ball and chain—it’s a campaign featuring to look as if it was decorative stones more memorable pieces. most furniture was feminist statement in the model Donna carved out of a solid used in Japanese

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CONSTANCE GENNARI; F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO; F. MARTIN RAMIN; ILLUSTRATIONS BY LAUREN TAMAKI bebitalia.com still handcrafted. furniture form. Jordan half-naked. cone-shaped block. gardens.

wsj. magazine 81 what’s news

trend report TRIED AND TRUE Riff on a classic with updated iterations of crisp, white shirts paired with outsize earrings.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SACHA MARIC FASHION EDITOR LAURA STOLOFF

BUTTONED UP Top, from left: Boss shirt and Céline earrings; Phillip Lim shirt, Re/Done Levi’s jeans and Marni earrings. Middle, from left: Brooks Brothers shirt, Re/Done Levi’s jeans and Simone Rocha earring; Brunello Cucinelli shirt and Lanvin earrings.

DARING DANGLES From left: Kiton shirt and Saint Laurent earrings; Akris shirt and Gucci earrings. Model: Sophie Jones at DNA Models; hair, Clay Nielsen; makeup, Katie Mellinger. For details see Sources, page 193.

82 wsj. magazine what’s news

statement pieces dior QUILTING CLUB From accessories to outerwear, heat things up this season with extra comfort. The touch of texture adds a modern twist for fall.

bella hadid at versace

CRIMSON TIDE louis vuitton From Bottega’s dusky bordeaux to Dior’s lacquered, plum-tinged black, lipstick took a rebellious—and dark— PUFF PIECES turn this season. According to makeup Clockwise from top artist James Kaliardos, who was behind left: Fendi coat, Stella the blackened aubergine at Rodarte, McCartney shorts, Prada coat, Gianvito the drama of a dark lip should be Rossi boot and Chanel embraced. For maximum impact, lip bag. For details see liner is a must. “Liner defines but can Sources, page 193. make an already strong look become too hard, so use it to build the color in the center of your lip but keep the edges soft,” Kaliardos says. At Dior, makeup artist Peter Philips amped up the inkiness by filling in the whole lip first with black eyeliner. “This guaranteed an intense full-cover base,” he says. After applying the lip color, follow with translucent powder around the edges. chanel As for the rest of the face, keep it simple. —Fiorella Valdesolo

on displ ay ANIMAL INSTINCT chanel Gold-leaf panthers will be on the prowl when Cartier’s Fifth Avenue Mansion reopens this fall. The flag- ship features a wall-size panel inspired by the 1930s designs of Louis Midavaine, founder of the Paris firm

Atelier Midavaine, whose artisans nars spent months applying the work’s 15 layers of lacquer. “It was a very long and quiet process,” says third- From top: Rouge Dior Lipstick in Mystérieuse; Diorshow Pro Liner in Pro Black; Bella Hadid at generation owner Anne Midavaine. the Atelier Versace Haute Couture fall/winter cartier.com. —Sara Morosi 2016–2017 show, in Paris; Chanel Le Crayon Lèvres Precision Lip Definer in Séduction; HIGH GLOSS Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Right: An Atelier Midavaine artisan Lip Colour in Rouge Audace; Nars Mirihi Island applies gold leaf to the Cartier panel. Far Beach Velvet Lip Liner; Nars Deviant Velvet

right: A screen by Louis Midavaine. Lip Glide. For details see Sources, page 193. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FIRSTVIEW (RUNWAY, 2); F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO (QUILTED PRODUCTS, LIPSTICKS AND LINERS); FRANÇOIS DURAND/GETTY IMAGES (HADID); VINCENT DE LA FAILLE, © CARTIER (2)

84 wsj. magazine what’s news

worth the trip IBERIAN IDYLL

ON THE BUTTON AS THE PORTUGUESE countryside London-based designer Martino Gamper, 44, is becomes a go-to destination for the known for turning simple materials and unwanted style set, chic hotels are cropping objects into distinctive furnishings. For a new up in bucolic spots, from the rugged collaboration with Italian leather-goods brand coast to the rural interior. A prime Valextra, he has elevated the humble button to an example is the recently opened São eye-catching accessory, fashioning pop art–style pieces that affix to the label’s bags with magnets. Lourenço do Barrocal, in the east- (He was inspired by a visit to a Manhattan button ern Monsaraz region. The 1,927-acre, emporium.) “The idea was to create something 200-year-old property comprises the playful that can be added or taken off depending on whitewashed, tile-roofed structures the situation,” says Gamper. $495 for set of three of a former agrarian village. “I was magnets; valextra.com. —Tara Lamont-Djite always interested in the conservation of the local architecture and repurposing it for contemporary use,” says owner José António Uva, whose family has lived on the site for eight generations. “Farm buildings now house hotel rooms, an olive mill became a bar—these spaces continue to be part of the daily life of the estate.” With rooms starting at around $215, the resort offers a kind of laid-back agritourism: tast- ing wine from the vineyards, horseback riding, lounging at the pool and picnicking in the vege- table gardens, which supply the hotel restaurant. COUNTRY LIVING In keeping with this holistic outlook is a partnership with renowned Clockwise from above: Austrian hotelier and spa owner Susanne Kaufmann, who brings her São Lourenço do Bar- organic beauty line and signature treatments to the hotel’s spa. “The rocal’s spa, overseen by Austrian wellness property is rich in natural resources of the highest quality,” Kaufmann expert Susanne says. “We have the same philosophy of understated luxury and attention Kaufmann; her new to detail.” In addition to launching the spa, Kaufmann is releasing a new Advanced Anti- Aging day cream; three-piece Advanced Anti-Aging line infused with pea extract, avail- Kaufmann; the resort. able in September. barrocal.pt; susannekaufmann.com. —T. L.-D.

libations GRAPE NEWS In Napa Valley’s long history, no one had ever mapped all of the region’s diverse vineyards. Veteran critic Antonio Galloni, founder of the wine-review site and app Vinous, has finally TAKE A HIKE charted them in detail, after meeting one-on-one with hundreds of winemakers and learning the A little bit country, a little bit rock ’n’ roll, this season’s swath of sturdy and stylish boots is ideally suited to secrets of their properties. “A lot of these wineries those who desire a combination of practical utility and are very private,” he says. “It took me two years to serious sole from their footwear. convince them this was a good idea.” Oenophiles can STOMPING GROUND Clockwise from top: Tabitha Simmons, order the Oakville and Pritchard Hill guides now, with Rupert Sanderson, Stuart Weitzman, Mulberry, Alexander Wang,

Coach and Prada (center). For details see Sources, page 193. more to come later this year. vinous.com. —Julie Coe FROM LEFT, TOP TO BOTTOM: F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO; COURTESY OF SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL; COURTESY OF SUSANNE KAUFMANN (2); COURTESY OF SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL; ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS SILAS NEAL

86 wsj. magazine “One Dance,” by Drake on iTunes. iTunes. on Drake by Dance,” “One

88 news what’s to 800. 700 on iTunes or Spotify or iTunes on 2 to 4. Nike+ Training Club. Training Nike+ Instagram. Snapchat. Favorite fitness/workout app app fitness/workout Favorite Most-listened-to track/album/artist bedtime before checked app Last morning the in checked app First emails unread of Number phone in contacts of Number bernard smith. h biggest time- wasting app: most-used instagram. omescreen: boyfriend, app: app: m e and my my e and

u ber. JOAN SMALLS the download in the industry. the Below,in ever-stylish the reveals what’s on Smalls her phone. 27-year-old, Rican–born in-demand most the Puerto one supermodel is of talents the music videos, and From covers runways magazine and campaigns beauty to (you can control the thermostat in your your in thermostat the control can (you The Convert Units app and the Nest app app Nest the and app Units Convert The clock app app clock Cities listed in weather and world world and weather in listed Cities Madrid and Tokyo. Tokyo. and Madrid York, New London, Town, Cape Paris, exists. she No. Iforget mom. My San Juan, Los Angeles, Miami, Milan, Milan, Miami, Angeles, Los Juan, San Siri user? user? Siri Most-surprising app you depend on on depend you app Most-surprising Person you FaceTime most often often most FaceTime you Person house from anywhere in the world). the in anywhere from house “Ducking.” Every time. No one uses that that uses one No time. Every “Ducking.” An image sent to my sister of what she she what of to sister my sent image An @funniest_15seconds. @funniest_15seconds. along with warmth. warmth. with along word in a sentence! asentence! in word I use highlights and shadows more, more, shadows and highlights I use looks like in the morning. morning. the in like looks Strangest auto-correct mishap mishap auto-correct Strangest Favorite emojis Favorite week the of message text Funniest Favorite Instagram effects effects Instagram Favorite feed Instagram Favorite “Hotline Bling” from Drake. I have Ihave Drake. from Bling” “Hotline Alarm settings: weekday/weekend/ settings: Alarm called: It’s about that time; Bounce; Bounce; time; that It’s about called: ever. pet loving most sweetest, the and Wake Up; Alarm. Up; Alarm. Wake vacation It’s all the same. I have them named named them Ihave same. the It’s all She’s abeauty dog. family our Karma, for different reasons. From waking waking From reasons. for different up to leaving to reminders. They are are They to reminders. toup leaving it only for my family members and and members family for my it only Lock-screen images images Lock-screen Favorite ringtone Favorite boyfriend. boyfriend. campaigns, in 2011. in campaigns, marketing global Lauder Estée represent to model Latina first the became world, the around runways countless on and covers magazine 60 on appeared has who Smalls, PLAN DATA helped me find find me helped secret after- the the pl ace you’ ve ve you’ ace pl it. it. lost or left left or lost your phone: london. victoria’s my friend cra ziest ziest cra part y in in y part i ws left it by it left d J booth. booth. J J

. magazine but but

ILLUSTRATION BY ALESSANDRA OLANOW CHLOÉ what’s news

LAIN PASSARD BELIEVES menus are written says Agathe Audouze, who in just three years has Cultural mores have evolved too. Signaling one’s by nature. “You can’t call a tomato a tomato grown her gluten-free and vegetarian Café Pinson food allergies and aversions was once seen as rude. in January,” he says. “It’s a counterfeit.” The into a mini chain with multiple Paris locations. “When “Ten years ago, guests didn’t mention their allergies,” chef of L’Arpège, a three-Michelin-star Paris you’re raised like that, it’s hard to change.” says Thierry Marx, chef of Camélia and the two- Ainstitution, is revered for his hyperseasonal dégus- “The French balk at the unfamiliar,” agrees Michelin-star Sur Mesure in the Mandarin Oriental, tation légumière. Diners book weeks in advance to Angèle Ferreux-Maeght, the owner of the chic Paris Paris. “They just left something on the plate.” Today, sample his exquisite menu of a dozen vegetarian takeout counter and catering service La Guinguette the Camélia menu clearly indicates vegetarian and dishes, like a vol-au-vent filled with fennel, zucchini d’Angèle. The great-granddaughter of influential art gluten- and dairy-free options as well as dishes con- flower and eggplant, in vin jaune sauce. taining nuts. In 2001, when this former rôtisseur These changes have come about for (meat cook) chose to forgo red meat multiple reasons, going back to the and refocus his menu around fresh mad cow scare. A growing obesity cri- produce, he shocked the restaurant sis and the state of the environment are world. Parisians were incredulous the main factors, but there are positive that leaves, stalks and bulbs could be motives, too. French chefs are fired up worthy of an epic feast. But 15 years about the possibilities of ingredients later, vegetable-focused cooking has like einkorn, sprouted lentils, quinoa become a perfectly viable concept in and buckwheat. “Our palate is broader France. From bastions of haute cui- now,” says Stéphane Jégo of the cel- sine to neighborhood bistros to corner ebrated Paris bistro L’Ami Jean, whose cafes, vegetarian and vegan dishes menu he recently recalibrated to are readily available, and gluten-free include more vegetables. “We used to options are proliferating as well. be much more constricted.” Reservationists have even started ask- Another explanation of the shift ing about dietary requirements. This may surprise readers: “We don’t like amounts to a sea change in a country to admit it, but we adore America,” where a meal without meat was long Audouze says. Case in point: Charlotte seen as a form of deprivation. Rouah, the founder of Paris-based Passard’s vegetable conversion has Juice It, started her company after proved prescient. In the years since, he discovering organic juice bars in New has instilled his eco-minded principles York. “I could get a fantastic variety in a new generation of chefs who now there,” she says. “Not in Paris.” run some of France’s most talked-about As the French have taken to clean restaurants—Mirazur, David Toutain, and green eating, they’ve also made it Saturne and Le Servan, to name a their own. “I could never forget clas- few. Like most of Passard’s disciples, sic cooking,” says Romain Meder, the Bertrand Grébaut, chef at Paris’s one- executive chef of Ducasse’s retooled Michelin-star restaurant Septime and Plaza Athénée restaurant. Several at seafood bar Clamato, does not ban- traditional methods such as curing, the shift ish meat entirely, but he finds that for grilling, smoking and roasting in a salt his peer group the ratio has changed. crust are newly relevant. “To make a “We cook more vegetables and less PLATS DU JOUR vegetable a star, you have to concen- animal protein. Look,” he says, scan- trate the flavor,” says Ducasse, “make it ning the Clamato menu, “one-third of As green juices arrive in the land of steak frites, tender or crisp, create a surprise, seek the dishes are vegetarian.” out its essence.” Vegetable-heavy menus were not French chefs are introducing a bounty There are also innovations—play- unheard of in French cooking. Alain of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes. ing up bold tastes and lively acidity, Ducasse introduced one almost 30 for instance, which are the antitheses years ago at Le Louis XV, in Monaco. At of refined Parisian style. Jégo says he the time, he sold fewer than two such BY JANE SIGAL doesn’t blanch asparagus anymore, meals a day; now as many as a quar- ILLUSTRATION BY PATRIK SVENSSON opting instead to grill it. “It’s not as ter of his customers order from that pretty,” he says, “but you keep more of menu. In 2014, concerned by the health the flavor.” This kind of simpler prepa- and environmental costs of meat consumption, the dealers Aimé and Marguerite Maeght, she serves ration is in line with the recent arrival of raw juices. legendary chef removed the meat station from his organic, gluten-free and vegan juices, Buddha bowls In fact, Jégo has collaborated with Rouah and Juice signature kitchen in the Plaza Athénée in Paris— and desserts from her year-old storefront near the It to create his own zippy blend of apple, carrot, beet, and promptly lost a Michelin star. It took Ducasse 15 Place des Victoires. lemon and ginger, which he serves in a shot glass as months to make the gastronomic case for vegetables, Ducasse protégé Christophe Moret, the chef at the a palate reviver. grains and sustainable seafood, but the restaurant Shangri-La Hotel, Paris, points to another stumbling In the end, what the French are wary of is extrem- regained its third star this year. block. “Customers thought they would be hungry ism. Most chefs remain unabashed omnivores, and The inclination to eat less meat has been part of after eating,” he says of the monthly “100% Green even Ferreux-Maeght, who mainly eats vegan and American dining culture for years now. What took the Dinners” he serves at the hotel’s La Bauhinia restau- gluten-free, rejects going overboard: “You shouldn’t French so long to be convinced? “In France, vegeta- rant. But he found that once they experienced one be too much of a purist,” she says. “We aren’t ready to bles are considered less noble than animal protein,” dinner, they were eager to reserve tables for the next. give up pleasure for well-being.”

90 wsj. magazine Fall / Winter 2016

NOW AVAILABLE AT what’s news

The ability to conjure flawless skin has earned facialists Joanna Vargas, Kristina Holey and Georgia Louise cult followings. Here, the three sought-after skin experts share their sources of inspiration, signature with wsj. beauty tips and complexion-enhancing essentials. —Fiorella Valdesolo

1. The place where you go 1 4. Can you remember the first makeup to find inspiration? item you purchased? The Cloisters, in NYC, is my Blue eyeliner and a blue eye shadow palette— all-time favorite. it was the ’80s.

2. What was the first 5. Favorite hotel? fragrance you wore? The Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur. I had three: Shalimar by Guerlain, Opium by YSL and 6. What do you do to unwind? Jean Naté cologne by Revlon. SoulCycle every day. Exercise is how I unwind. I was already a little old lady when I was 6. Then I switched 7. What’s the last great book you read? to Paloma Picasso in high Elvis Costello’s autobiography, Unfaithful school. I thought she was so Music & Disappearing Ink. fabulous, and I loved the idea of smelling like her. 3 3. Your favorite beauty store? The New London Pharmacy on Eighth Avenue and 22nd Street, in NYC. I started going there when I was a young estheti- cian. The shop owner sources products from all over, so if you want to learn anything JOANNA VA RGAS about beauty, go there. new York and Los angeLes 2

When it comes to beauty products, Joanna 7 5 4 Vargas, 46, was an early adopter: “I’ve been obsessed with makeup since I was a little girl.” After graduating from the University of Chicago, Vargas moved to New York at 22 to become a photographer but eventually shifted gears to enroll at 6 the Christine Valmy International School for Esthetics. “It was there that I fell in love with the idea of taking care of somebody and figuring out their skin,” she says. “And to this day that still drives my practice.” Before opening her own salon in NYC in 2006, Vargas worked as a facialist at an organic spa in Tribeca and then in 8. Do you have beauty essentials beyond the product dermatologist Brad Katchen’s office. realm that contribute to your skin health? 8 Those two experiences helped shape her I drink Kimberly Snyder’s amazing Glowing Green signature approach—a fusion of natural Smoothie every morning. And I also take a trapeze class skin-care products with technology like with my friend Amanda Topaz once a week. It makes you feel strong and increases your muscle tone, but LED-light therapy. It’s a philosophy that’s honestly it just makes me feel happy. And there’s nothing made her the go-to facialist for A-list better for your skin than being happy. clients from Julianne Moore to Michelle Williams. “I believe everyone can have 9. Do you have a beauty icon? beautiful skin—it’s not just something Lauren Hutton, because she’s always maintained her natural beauty instead of fixing things that were you’re born with,” says Vargas, who will “imperfect” about herself. And Eartha Kitt (left), open her first salon outside of NYC in West because she defined sexy. I feel like every woman wanted 9 Hollywood this September. > to bottle what she had. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SKYE PARROTT (PORTRAIT);SOULCYCLE; © © RICCARDORICHARD SALA/ALAMYBROADWELL/ALAMY STOCK STOCK PHOTO; PHOTO; ADRIÁNEREVALL;YLVA COURTESYIÑIGUEZ OF BLUE GONZÁLEZ;RIDER GLASSHOUSEPRESS; IMAGES/ALAMYCOURTESY OF STOCK GUERLAIN;PHOTO; COURTESYMICHAEL OF OCHS/GETTY IMAGES

94 wsj. magazine 96 Veronique. Marie pioneer skin-care natural- with collaboration in created products, of trio first her Solutions, Exclusive KH/MV mer, launched Holey sum This psyche. and habits diet, about inquiries involve nique—appointments tech her in prominently figures still Science NYC. and Francisco San between time her divided has 2014 since Holey, who for me,” says clicked picture health bigger the to determine skin attheir looking and directly clients with “Working one. one-on- clients to treat lab the of out step to her encouraged and Holey mentored who Ciocco, Joëlle expert skin-care based Paris- met soon and ISIPCA at Versailles’s program master’s the in perfumery and chemistry cosmetic studied later Holey brands. for beauty products formulating alab to in lead ajob would coursework try chemis her where Polytechnic, California at engineering studied Holey 2000s, early the In doctors. of afamily in California, Ojai, upin Holey, grew who 32, Kristina says blood,” my in was sciences the and biology, anatomy about “Excitement York new and Francisco san HOLEY KRISTINA news what’s - > - - 9 Point Reyes or Bodega. or Reyes Point (below), to Bolinas north drive and car the in get I just and husband my off, days our On California. Northern in trips day quick taking I love getaway? Favorite 4. lashes. of edges outer the on mascara of bit atiny but anything against hugely I was grade. seventh in Mascara, purchased? you item makeup first the remember you Can 3. Villatte. de Astier by Chic Eau scent? beloved Your most 2. oil. jasmine or rose of sort Some fragrance? Your first 1. 7 4 3

7 2 Mac’s Mac’s Fleetwood Weeks, Astral Morrison’s Van to Run, Born Springsteen’s Bruce albums? 9. Favorite treatment. spa ideal my is possible as long as for water in submerged be to me allows that Anything long. day all repeat and sauna swim, soak, steam, Ican bathhouse—anywhere Japanese or ahammam is spa of type favorite My treatment? spa favorite your What’s 8. vinegar. cider apple and turmeric honey, chlorella, blend brightening, for and capsules; probiotic and yeast brewer’s yogurt, mix acne, for clay; white or turmeric like powders in add and tea green chilled of abase take calming, For help: really can that masks DIY afew are there but hippie, sound They by? stand you remedy beauty home 7. aDIY have you Do important. are circulation strong maintaining and pumping blood the Getting running. or yoga it’s hiking, day, my of whether part that to Ilove make so exercise, prioritized that afamily in up Igrew Movement. health? skin to your contribute that realm product the beyond essentials beauty have you Do 6. Tusk Songs of Leonard Cohen. Leonard of Songs Cohen’s Leonard and 5 8

6 and those do the trick. the do those and crumble, doesn’t and quickly dries that one Ineed so skin, my over all up to end not mascara the for impossible it’s nearly eyes my of shape the of Because YSL. and Chantecaille are mascaras favorite my And lips. my out dry don’t they and range, their Ilove Ilia; is lipstick favorite My lipstick. and mascara but anything wear I don’t rotation? regular in have currently you items makeup the are What 5. 1 wsj. magazine

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CHLOE AFTEL (PORTRAIT); SOPHIE DELAPORTE; © VALENTYN VOLKOV/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; © DAVID KLEYN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; © CHRISTIAN M. VELA/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; © RICHARD WONG/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO MOUNT TAMALPAIS STATE PARK, CALIFORNIA, USA; © CBW/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; © STUART BURFORD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; © MARTIN BAUMGAERTNER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY OF ILIA; © NICHOLAS EVELEIGH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO what’s news

1. Favorite hotel? 1 The Carlyle in New York. It’s where I got married the first year I moved here.

2. Favorite drink? Coconut water. The best skin comes from always staying hydrated.

3. Favorite getaway? 2 Mykonos, Greece. I’ve been going every year for eight years. The beautiful beaches, warm people and amazing food help to re-energize my mind, body and soul.

3

GEORGIA LOUISE new York

British-born Georgia Louise, 36, credits two women with steering her career: her mother and supermodel Linda Evangelista. Louise’s mother first nudged her daughter toward the industry by helping her land a job at Silks Beauty 4. Can you remember the first Salon in Bedfordshire, England, which makeup item you purchased? led to beauty school and then opportuni- I think I owned every shade of ties with Clarins and Decleor. In 2001, at Clarins Multi-Blush Cream Blush. just 21, Louise opened her first skin-care 4 spa in London. Ten years later, Louise 5. The place where you go to find inspiration? moved to NYC, where, through a mutual Central Park. I walk through the 9 friend, she met Evangelista. After Louise park every day to get to work. gave her a facial, the supermodel spread the word, and clients—from Emma Stone 5 to Christy Turlington—soon followed. Now bespoke treatments at her Upper East Side practice are in high demand. “One facial is never the same as the next,” says Louise, who incorporates everything from radio frequency to microcurrent. 6 “My approach is about stimulating growth and activity at the skin’s dermal level. I don’t believe in lasers or Botox.” • 8

6 6. Your first fragrance? Chanel No. 5. It was my must-have as a young girl. I mean, who doesn’t love Marilyn Monroe?

7. Your beauty essentials beyond the product realm that contribute to your skin health? A green juice every morning and water throughout the day, weekly acupuncture, daily meditation (for five minutes) and facial massages using my Butterfly Stone for lifting and lymphatic drainage.

8. Your favorite places to shop? Net-a-Porter, Matches and the Barneys shoe lounge (above).

7 9. Favorite restaurant?

Sant Ambroeus in the West Village. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF GEORGIA LOUISEGETTY (PORTRAIT);IMAGES; DÜNZL/ULLSTEINMCNY/GOTTSCHO-SCHLEISNER/GETTY BILD/GETTY IMAGES;IMAGES; BILL© VALENTYNHOGAN/CHICAGO VOLKOV/ALAMY STOCKTRIBUNE/MCT/GETTY PHOTO; COURTESYIMAGES; OF COURTESYSANT OF AMBROEUS;CLARINS; SCOTT © FRANCES;ROSSELLA APOSTOLI/ALAMYCOURTESY OF GEORGIASTOCK PHOTOLOUISE; BARON/

98 wsj. magazine A COLLECTION OF OVER 60 FABULOUS SHOPS ON LONG ISLAND’S NORTH SHORE

AGENT PROVOCATEUR ALICE + OLIVIA ANNE FONTAINE BANDIER BOTTEGA VENETA BROOKS BROTHERS BRUNELLO CUCINELLI BURBERRY CARTIER CÉLINE CHANEL CHANEL FINE JEWELRY CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CELEBRATING OUR FIRST 60 YEARS... CHROME HEARTS COACH DAV I D Y U R M A N DIANE VON FURSTENBERG DIOR ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA FENDI GIORGIO ARMANI GUCCI HERMÈS HIRSHLEIFERS HUGO BOSS ILORI OPTICAL INTERMIX J.CREW JIMMY CHOO LONDON JEWELERS LORO PIANA LOUIS VUITTON MAX MARA MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION MORGENTHAL FREDERICS PRADA RAG & BONE RALPH LAUREN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SNEAKEROLOGY | EXIT 36 ST. JOHN TESLA THEORY TIFFANY & CO. TORY BURCH URBAN ZEN VAN CLEEF & ARPELS VINCE WOLFORD ZIMMERMANN AND MORE... WHEREVER YOU MAY BE LOCATED, SIMPLY CONTACT AMERICANA’S VISIT US ONLINE TO VIEW OUR FALL LOOKBOOK AND SHORT FILM, “THE NEW ROMANTICS.”

©2016 CASTAGNA REALTY CO., INC. COMPLIMENTARY PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE, YOUR ULTIMATE RESOURCE. MANHASSET, LONG ISLAND NY | 800.818.6767 | AMERICANAMANHASSET.COM keepsakes the wsj. five september 2016

1. the BOOtS Heavy-soled leather lends a touch of ruggedness to street- smart looks. Valentino Garavani combat boots, Céline dress and leggings and Theory sweater.

Ahead of the Game Shake up this fall’s style playbook with one of these standout accessories, from chunky, ’90s-inspired boots to a sculptural, eye-catching necklace.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTHEW KRISTALL STYLING BY KAREN KAISER

wSj. magazine 103 the wSj. five

2. the SCaRf 3. the neCKLaCe Achieve maximum A bold gold choker impact with a playfully dresses up everyday wear. puffy wrap. Balenciaga Loewe wire choker, Hermès scarf and Phoebe jacket, Brunello Cucinelli English shirt and skirt. pants and Valentino Garavani combat boots.

104 wSj. magazine the wSj. five

4. the eaRRingS 5. the Bag Colorful gems make for A crocodile cross-body with an artistic arrangement. elegant accents is an all-star Louis Vuitton earrings, pick. Prada bag and Proenza jacket and top. Schouler dress. Model, Jane Moseley at Next Model Management; hair, Kayla MiChele; makeup, Erin Parsons. For details see Sources, page 193.

106 wSj. magazine market report fashion & design forecast MARKET REPORT. september 2016

TRENCH DRESSING A beautifully functional coat elevates any ensemble. This fall, choose one of these updates on a classic.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARNO FRUGIER STYLING BY VANESSA TRAINA

OPEN CALL Brave the elements with original, showstopping combinations. Trademark coat (worn over), Theory coat (worn underneath), Jil Sander tops and skirt and Loewe earrings. Opposite: Céline coat and belt, Hermès top and skirt, Loewe shoes (worn throughout), Stella McCartney earring and Falke hosiery (worn throughout).

110 wsj. magazine market report

LONG VIEW Highlight a monochromatic outfit with subtle contrasts. Zadig & Voltaire coat, Proenza Schouler dress and slip and Loewe earrings. Opposite: Carolina Herrera coat, Loewe dress, Hermès cardigan and Ana Khouri x Narciso Rodriguez earrings.

112 wsj. magazine market report

UNDER COVER A mix of fabrics and textures keeps things fresh. Ralph Lauren coat (worn over), Valentino coat (worn underneath), Calvin Klein dress and Loewe earrings. Opposite: Balenciaga coat, sweater, skirt and earrings.

114 wsj. magazine market report

EPIC PROPORTIONS Experiment with shapes and sizes. Loewe coat, top and skirt and Stella McCartney earring. Model, Mali Koopman at Women Management; hair, Bob Recine; makeup, Romy Soleimani; manicure, Riwako Kobayashi. For details see Sources, page 193.

116 wsj. magazine Cade sofa, $2299; Aero ottomans $499-$899; Avilia rug, $899. Chelsea 236 West 18th Street, New York City roomandboard.com

“When others become indecisive Who knows where it’s going? in an uncertain market, at THE ANSWER COMES DOWN TO: DOUGLAS ELLIMAN Experience. Access. Data. we are emboldened. We have prospered through 20 economic cycles in our 105-year history,

and our markets remain the Throughout Douglas Elliman’s long history, we have kept a steady most sought-after in the world. hand on the pulse of the market, offering our clients counsel founded on timely insights and deep knowledge for all their questions— This, coupled with extensive especially, “To buy or not to buy…to sell or not to sell.” experience and industry-leading An emotionally-charged election year in the U.S., low oil prices, and data, perfectly positions us for bumpy weather for markets in China, Brazil, and most of Western continued success.” Europe have created unique challenges. The good news is that Douglas Elliman agenst are well positioned to help our clients of long Howard M. Lorber and Dottie Herman standing and new prospects make sound decisions based on three CHAIRMAN AND PRESIDENT & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER DOUGLAS ELLIMAN REAL ESTATE defining attributes: our extensive experience, our unparalleled access to high-net-worth individuals across the globe, and the advantages our data capabilities confer on our agents. Our ongoing 105 years of EXPERIENCE servicing clients success is built upon a history of trusted experience, combined with through 20 economic cycles our leading role in the world’s strongest markets.

Unprecedented ACCESS to a global We’ve experienced—and prospered through—20 economic network of 22,000+ professionals in 58 countries through our exclusive alliance with cycles. Douglas Elliman opened shop in 1911, and today we are the Knight Frank Residential largest real estate firm in the New York market, and number four nationally. Last year, our sales volume totalled $22 billion, up 20% Industry leading DATA from U.S. market from 2014, while the general Manhattan market remained flat, with reports, produced in conjunction with Miller only a 0.5% rise. Our accumulated experience adds up to a coveted Samuel, the Elliman Insights platform and jointly published market research reports such quality there’s no shortcut to—market wisdom. as the annual Wealth Report, garnering a reach of 2.3+ billion viewers in 2016 After 105 years, we know a few things for certain. No app or shiny new web site is a substitute for experience, hard-earned knowledge, access on the human level, and insights built on billions of data points.

Put the power of Elliman to work for you.

#ellimaninsights ° elliman.com

©2016 DOUGLAS ELLIMAN REAL ESTATE. EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY. AMERICAN MADE SINCE 1980 EVENTS

Advertisement EVENTS

MEN’S FASHION WEEK DINNER MILAN | 6.20.16

WSJ. Magazine celebrated men’s fashion with an evening hosted by publisher Anthony Cenname at Palazzini Appiani. The event honored the history, heritage and craftsmanship of the global legacy brands and designers in attendance; comprised of key executives from top design houses, luxury retailers, and notables in the industry. EVENTS Stefano Caputo, Antonella Viero Photos by Matteo Prandoni/BFA.com

Anthony Cenname, Angela Missoni, Remo Ruffini, Francesca Ruffini

Emanuela Pignataro, Elisabetta Canale, Bruce Pask, Giorgio Guidotti

Teresa Missoni, Margherita Missoni Umberto Angeloni, Alessandra Alla Claudio Calò

Vincenzo Castaldo, Raffaella Redaelli, Rodolfo Paglialunga

Kevin Harter, Jennifer Stucko, Giovanni Mannucci, Davide Marello Elisa Fuksas, Lavinia Fuksas Justin Berkowitz Álvaro González, Lucia Croce, Neil Barrett We love Codices, the ancient messengers of Art and Culture.

@WSJnoted | wsjnoted.com © 2016 DOW JONES & COMPANY, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 6AO1568. www.brunellocucinelli.com Two Rodeo Drive South Coast PlazaVegas Las San Francisco Two www.brunellocucinelli.com Illuminated page from “Pantheon” by Godfrey of Viterbo, Italy, 1331 Advertisement Three Perfect Pins: Island of Hawai‘i EVENTS with Zak Shelhamer BAMcinemaFest NEW YORK | 6.15.16 - 6.26.16

WSJ joined the Brooklyn Academy of There’s more to the island of Music for the eighth annual independent film showcase presenting its trademark Hawai‘i than you think. Just ask mix of established voices and fresh new discoveries. The festival lineup featured Zak Shelhamer. The photographer a panoramic view of American Independent has been named “Best Adventure cinema at its most audacious, kicking off with the NY premiere of Ira Sachs’ Traveler” by the Huffi ngton Post. Little Men.

His pictures evoke powerful feelings Photos by David Godlis that capture the very heart of Lauren Hutton, Stella Schnabel travel. Here are some of his favorite spots to explore on Hawai‘i Island.

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK “Set aside plenty of time, it’s a big park and you could spend days hiking, checking out caves, old lava fi elds, and even seeing an active volcano! Check in at the Visitor Center and chat with Arturo Castro Kathleen Turner Ira Sachs the local rangers about locations to explore.”

KUA BAY “My favorite spot to spend the day, relaxing on the white sand and swimming in crystal clear water. Walk along the coast for

a little extra exploration.” Josh Pais

WAIA¯ NUENUE (RAINBOW FALLS) “This classic Hawai‘i waterfall isn’t far from the road and it’s a good area for a picnic.”

Mamie Gummer, Zoe Kazan Theo Taplitz, Michael Barbieri Greg Kinnear

Get inspired at #LetHawaiiHappen @WSJnoted | wsjnoted.com © 2016 DOW JONES & COMPANY, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 3AO1569 leading the conversation the exchange. september 2016

ROADWAY IS, at some level, all about real estate: A play is a Broadway play because it’s running at one of Broadway’s 40 theaters. This makes Jordan Roth, the president and Bmajority owner of Jujamcyn Theaters, one of the most influential figures in the business. At its five Broadway venues, his company puts on hits like The Book of Mormon, Jersey Boys and, most recently, The Crucible. The son of a real estate developer and a theater pro- ducer, Roth, 40, does things differently from his two main counterparts—Philip Smith, 85, who heads the Shubert Organization, and Jimmy Nederlander, 94, chairman of the Nederlander Organization. For one, Roth actively uses social media to promote his shows. In the process, he has developed a large following of his own—fans often ask to take selfies with him. More generally, Roth has become a booster for all of Broadway. He hosts conversations at the 92nd Street Y, and he’s a regular on MSNBC. “It’s an opportunity to shine a light on what’s so extraordinary about every person who’s involved in the Broadway season,” he says. On the morning of the Tony Awards, Roth is in the vast West Village apartment he shares with his husband, the TV producer Richie Jackson, 49. The place is immaculate, containing only one piece of the- ater memorabilia—the envelope from the 2012 Tonys announcing Clybourne Park, which Roth produced, as the winner of the year’s best play award. Soon he’ll head uptown to co-host the Tonys’ red-carpet live stream at the Beacon Theatre. Roth is precise and incredibly industrious. In 2007, he launched Givenik.com, a ticketing website that allows buyers to earmark a percentage of their ticket fees for a charity of their choosing. In 2013, he founded Culturalist.com, a site where users make and debate Top 10 lists about theater and other forms of enter- tainment. Journalist Michael Kinsley once described Al Gore as “an old person’s idea of a young person,” and Roth, in light of all he’s accomplished, might well be a STAR TURN Broadway theater owner young person’s idea of an older one. Last fall he started and producer Jordan hosting Making Mondays, a weekly interactive live Roth outside the Beacon stream where creatives come up with an impromptu Theatre after the 2016 Tony Awards. work of art, such as a short play, incorporating real- time comments from viewers. “I love bouncing ideas off of exciting, interesting people and finding out what we can make in the space between us,” he says. For Tracked Roth, the red-carpet live stream means two hours on his feet, chatting and air-kissing and waiting. He is puckish, prone to dancing in place when he’s bored. JORDAN ROTH When the Tonys finally start, it’s time to relax; Roth isn’t a producer on any of this year’s nominees. (Last As one of the most powerful men in theater, year, Something Rotten, which Jujamcyn co-produced, this Broadway mogul does business his way. was a best musical nominee. This season, Roth will be co-producing a much-anticipated revival of Falsettos.) After the show, he and Jackson hop into their Escalade BY JESSE OXFELD for the after-party at the Plaza hotel. They don’t stay PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER LEAMAN long, heading home to rest up for the next night, when they’re being honored at a benefit. >

wsj. magazine 121 The exchange Tracked

10:45 a.m. 5 Roth hangs out at home with his husband, Richie Broadway theaters Jackson. The pair met at The venues in Jujamcyn’s portfolio the Tony Awards 13 years of properties. The company oversees ago and married in 2012. long-running hits like Jersey Boys, The Book of Mormon and Kinky Boots. 34 years old Roth’s age when he became president and co-owner of Jujamcyn, in 2009.

4:15 p.m. 25,700 Roth gets dressed at the Twitter followers JCC Manhattan in Roth’s stats as of the night of the Tonys. preparation for the Tony Awards live stream. 600 guests The attendees at Roth and Jackson’s 2012 wedding ceremony, conducted on the stage 7:00 p.m. of Jujamcyn’s Al Hirschfeld Theatre. Guests begin arriving at the Beacon Theatre for the Tony Awards ceremony. 2010 The year Roth completed an M.B.A. at Columbia Business School, while running Jujamcyn. He graduated in 1997 from Princeton, where he studied philosophy and theater. 51 Tonys p.m. The number of wins Jujamcyn has clocked 7:15 since Roth joined the company. Roth and co-host Karen 11:20 p.m. Olivo interview Hamilton Oprah Winfrey, a producer of the Tony creator and star Lin-Manuel Award–winning The Color Purple, Miranda on the red carpet. greets Cynthia Erivo, who won the best actress award for her role in that show. 3 bow ties The neckwear selection Roth brought to the Tonys, in case of an emergency. 2001 The year Roth became the youngest lead producer ever nominated for a Tony, when The Rocky Horror Show was in the running for best musical revival. He was 25.

12:45 a.m. 1:15 a.m. 75 A server at the Todd English Food Hall Roth snaps a photo of Hamilton minutes in the Plaza’s basement offers lobster star Leslie Odom Jr. and his Tony. The amount of time Roth spent at the rolls during the official after-party. Tonys after-party at the Plaza. • abc carpet & home broadway at e 19 street abchome.com abc co-create catellani & smith cosmos star lamp where creativity lives 122 wsj. magazine the exchange

SOUPY SALES “They’ve got one or two dishes they’re famous for,” says producer

John Sloss of Tetou. “And you’ve got to bring a lot of cash.”

epicurean travel THE BOUILLABAISSE KING For decades Tetou, a storied eatery near Cannes, has attracted a famous clientele—from Picasso to George Clooney—eager to savor its signature dish.

BY JAY CHESHES PHOTOGRAPHY BY TUNG WALSH

T’S ALMOST 10 P.M. as Kristen Stewart braves Two years ago, Sharon Stone swept in late to steal anywhere,” he says. “The bouillabaisse was so fill- flashbulb barricades outside Tetou in a black-and- Lagerfeld’s fingerless gloves to auction off for char- ing,” he recalls, “we never had room for dessert.” AMELIA 01 From $8,500 to $175,000 white Chanel frock. Susan Sarandon is already ity at an amfAR party two nights later. The designer, Ernest “Tetou” Cirio came to this pristine stretch inside, arm in arm with Naomi Watts. The beach who ought to be holding court at his central table, of Mediterranean coast after being wounded in the Iaround the restaurant has been carpeted with wood has been detained at the last minute in Paris, “work- French navy in World War I to start a new life in the planks, a pop-up deck ringed by tiki torches and stern ing on his latest collection,” according to one of restaurant business. In 1920 he built a shack on the guards in dark suits. Perrier-Jouët flows as wait- his celebrity dressers. Chanel image director Eric beach, cooking his bouillabaisse open-air over char- ers pass around canapés. It’s the second night of the Pfrunder is here instead, huddling with Jessica coal. When the Cannes Film Festival began in the A BeAutiful Night’s sleep 69th Festival de Cannes, and this modest seafood Chastain and Christian Louboutin, enjoying the res- mid 1940s, Tetou quickly became a celebrity magnet. The world’s most comfortable bed, hand made in London restaurant, just up the French coast from Cannes in taurant’s signature dishes—tomates à la Provençale, With its spare white nautical interiors and impec- Golfe-Juan, is teeming with celebrities. Kirsten Dunst bouillabaisse, beignets with jam for dessert—served cable seafood, it provides a dreamy escape from the and Mads Mikkelsen, two of this year’s jury members, family-style in big portions, just as they’ve been for madness of Cannes. “The only thing they ever change Downtown - 54 Greene Street, NY 10013 +1 212 226 3640 are among the last to arrive. Linen-topped tables, lit nearly a century. is the price,” says photographer and bon vivant Jean by overhead lights dimmed to a flattering glow, begin For years I’d been hearing about this mythic res- Pigozzi, who has a home nearby. “A lot of girls don’t New Uptown - 223 East 59th Street, NY 10022 +1 646 767 9935 to fill with starlets. Mesdames“ et messieurs, prenez taurant. My wife and her father, who is French, still like it because the light is very strong—doesn’t look vos places!” a waitress announces. Dinner is served. rhapsodize about the bouillabaisse they ate there, good for their makeup.” For the past three years Karl Lagerfeld has even though their last visit was more than 30 years Run by the same family for four generations, the savoirbeds.com held sway over this film festival soirée, sponsored ago. My father-in-law first dined at Tetou as a young restaurant today is as well known for its bouillabaisse by Chanel and the French edition of Vanity Fair. boy in the 1950s, “back when you could still get in as for its exorbitant prices and steadfast refusal to >

London Paris Düsseldorf St Petersburg Hong Kong Seoul Beijing Shanghai Taipei New York 124 wsj. magazine the exchange epicurean travel

jewels from his wife. “I was amazed he was so calm,” says Bertolino. “That was his medication, I guess, his happy place.” Roman Coppola dined at the restaurant for the first time in 1974, when he was 9 years old and accom- panying his father, Francis Ford Coppola, to Cannes (The Conversation, his paranoid thriller, took the festival’s top prize that year). He’s been back many times since. “You see familiar faces year after year,” he says. “They remember when I was a little kid sleep- ing under the table.” New dining venues have come into the Hotel du Cap’s beau monde orbit over the years. Bacon, a more formal seafood restaurant nearby with its own very good bouillabaisse, has its partisans among the hotel’s A-list guests. Le Michelangelo, in Antibes, famous for its truffled pizzas and gregarious impresario-owner, hosts its fair share of star-studded soirees (George and Amal Clooney were spotted there this year). No AT YOUR SERVICE restaurant, though, is more closely linked to the hotel Clockwise from left: than Tetou. Tetou’s owner, Pierre- Jacques Marquise (rear, Marquise and Bertolino grew up together in Golfe- center), and team; a Juan; their careers have run parallel for 30 years. table along la bordure, ASTRAL WEEK “Tetou always saves their best tables, la bordure, the overlooking the beach; Clockwise from left: A bowl of Tetou’s bouillabaisse; paparazzi Tetou’s guest book, signed crowding the restaurant’s entrance during the Cannes Film first row, for our clientele,” says the concierge. Guests by Karl Lagerfeld; a Festival; Karl Lagerfeld, flanked by (from left) Barbara Palvin, can even charge the meal to their room. “It’s an exten- boiling pot of fish soup, for Jessica Chastain, Eva Longoria and Julianne Moore at the 2014 sion of the hotel, a true partner,” he says. bouillabaisse; coffee cups. Chanel/Vanity Fair France party at Tetou. For a while, beginning in the 1990s, the close ties between the hotel and restaurant frayed after a guest, Hollywood producer Richard Zanuck, didn’t get the accept credit cards. “I often refer to it as the Peter Ordering the bouillabaisse with lobster is an ama- tiny port of Golfe-Juan in 1882. When he turned 20, he for a few years, its stretch of beach occupied by Axis parents split up in the late ’70s, he moved with his table he wanted. “The restaurant was full; what could Luger of the Riviera,” says John Sloss (referring to teur move, according to Charles Finch—son of actor joined the French navy, and his story from that point troops. In the early days of the war, Francis Picabia—a dad, at 15, to start a new life in Southern California. we do?” says Marquise. The outraged producer com- the legendary, cash-only Brooklyn steakhouse), a Peter—a jack-of-all-trades in the film business (direc- on, passed down from one generation to the next, long longtime regular—traded art for Tetou’s cooking. His His father’s American branch of Tetou opened shortly plained to the hotel’s general manager, Jean-Claude producer who held an intimate dinner there after his tor, agent, party host, financier) who has hosted many ago morphed into myth. “We never knew by which portrait of the fisherman-cook, painted in that period, thereafter in Calabasas, California, featuring bouil- Irondelle, who responded by issuing an official ban Amy Winehouse documentary premiered last year. dinner parties for industry friends at Tetou. “Anyone circumstances, but he became the private cook of the still hangs on a wall near the bar. labaisse made with Pacific fish. Patrons of the Côte on sending guests to Tetou, a fatwa that endured “They’ve got one or two dishes they’re famous for, who orders the bouillabaisse royale, with lobster, is admiral,” wrote his late grandson, Jacky, scribbling Tetou died before the war’s end, at 61, passing d’Azur original, among them Robert Wagner, Natalie until his retirement in 2005. Bertolino and his crew and you’ve got to bring a lot of cash.” not my friend, is never going to be invited again,” he down Tetou’s life story a few years ago. After World the restaurant on to his three daughters. It reopened Wood and Quincy Jones, showed up for the opening. continued to book on the sly, though. “I think it made Over the years, Tetou has served everyone from says. “If you want lobster, go find it in Cuba or some- War I he launched his small restaurant, Chez Tetou— right after the war, just in time for the first Cannes Marquise attended the Lycée Français, alongside people want to go there even more,” he says. In the Pablo Picasso and Charlie Chaplin to Catherine thing—don’t order it at Tetou.” not long after the Grand Hotel du Cap, the region’s Film Festival. Through the late ’40s and the ’50s the celebrity kids like Jodie Foster. He would see many of log book they marked “PJ,” code for Pierre-Jacques, Deneuve and Angelina Jolie. “I will confess that I am Our waitress likewise steers me away from the lob- most glamorous hotel, up the coast, began to open for restaurant’s fortunes soared. Picasso, who had moved his classmates again after he returned to Golfe-Juan instead of “Tetou.” yearning for this soup right now,” wrote Barbara Bush ster when a friend and I order the bouillabaisse the the first time in summer (it was originally a winter full time to the area, became a frequent fixture. “He in 1982, when he officially joined the family busi- The restaurant is “one of the few places where of the bouillabaisse in her 2004 memoir. Kirk Douglas night before this year’s film festival. Croutons and retreat). The hotel’s glittery patrons were among his used to do the ice cream cones outside,” says Pierre- ness. “My grandmother immediately sent me to wash you can still feel what F. Scott Fitzgerald found on recounts taking Peter Sellers to the restaurant as a rouille arrive first for snacking, alongside radishes earliest clientele. Jacques Marquise, a great grandson of Tetou (and dishes,” he says. the Riviera,” says Vanity Fair France editor in chief consolation prize after Sellers failed to win best actor and tiny black olives—the extra-garlicky mayon- Tetou would fish at night by torchlight, often with nephew of Jacky) who runs the restaurant today. “He After the film festival, throughout summer’s high Anne Boulay. But it might not survive in its time at Cannes for his 1979 performance in Being There. naise and crisp husks of bread both stained golden his young daughters onboard, cooking his catch the would draw a little picture, sign it, wrap it around the season, Tetou becomes packed with mostly afflu- warp much longer. Lately Tetou has been fighting for The entire restaurant (with room for barely 100 from Iranian saffron. Tetou’s version of the iconic next day over Polish charcoal (which burned extra cone, give it to the kids. They’d eat the ice cream and ent families out for long, languorous lunches fueled its life on the beach, so close to the breakers that the guests) isn’t generally available to rent out for private soup features scorpion fish, John Dory, red gurnard hot). Sometimes he’d pull lobsters from the rocks, but throw it away.” by plenty of Provence rosé. The restaurant runs a Mediterranean froth at high tide almost laps at the events—particularly during the clubbiest two weeks and sea bream delivered in two no-nonsense courses. he became best known as “the king of bouillabaisse,” The restaurant’s guest books are a trove of small beach club next door, renting out lounge chairs windows. The restaurant is battling a 10-year-old of the year. So it was a coup when Vanity Fair France We fill our bowls with potato, hunks of flaky fish and as he’s described on an early postcard. One (possi- impromptu sketches and amusing inscriptions from around changing cabanas. You can swim, shower, French law forbidding seasonal bars and restaurants made its debut at Cannes in 2013 with a party at Tetou. croutons, ladle on the fragrant rusty-hued soup, slurp bly apocryphal) story, passed on by Jacky, has Tetou the early days to the present. On one page is an entry change and then come in to eat. The bouillabaisse is like Tetou—open March through October—from hav- “When people heard we’d be taking over the entire and repeat. A mountain of sugary beignets finishes emerging from the water one day clutching a five- from the grand duke of Russia; on another, one from an annual tradition for well-to-do continentals who ing permanent structures along the coast. The letter restaurant for a night, they didn’t believe it,” says the meal—les élégances, they call them here—with a pound lobster just as a chauffeured Rolls-Royce drives Ella Fitzgerald, dining with legendary jazz impresa- return year after year to villas nearby or suites in of that littoral law demands the dismantling of the Albane Cleret, the French nightlife impresario and big bowl of whipped cream and a rainbow of intense by. “How much for that beautiful beast?” asks the rio Norman Granz. “Yves Montand, he came in often,” what is now known as the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc. existing landmark structure and starting all over party planner who first convinced the owners to host fruity jams. “La peché de la maison [the sin of the driver, sent out to inquire. “Tell your boss he doesn’t says Marquise, flipping through a guest book’s yel- “We have some clients, we know the first night again with something less permanent. Although the the fete she’s organized there annually ever since. house],” says the owner, rushing by. have enough money,” replied Tetou. It was the Baron lowed pages one afternoon. There’s David Niven, John they’ll go to Tetou and the last night they’ll go to law has been enforced sporadically by the govern- An ideal meal begins with a bubbling crock of The enduring appeal of Tetou can’t be broken de Rothschild in that car, wrote Jacky. Huston, Pelé, Sergio Leone. Marc Chagall left a sketch; Tetou, for years and years, it’s a well-worn path,” ment so far, with local discretion, the situation has breadcrumb-topped tomatoes; as a special treat the down to any one bite of food. It’s the sum of its many Between the world wars, Tetou’s little beach so did Tim Burton and Quentin Tarantino. Julian says Gilles Bertolino, head concierge at the du Cap. left Tetou in a state of legal limbo. kitchen will crack an egg on top. The bouillabaisse, quirky parts—the Mediterranean lapping just outside shack drew artists, writers, singers, dancers and Schnabel drew his dining companion, Dan Aykroyd “They will go to the Hotel du Cap every year and to With the new mayor of its seaside community available with optional lobster, features whole fish, its big picture windows, its playful staff, loyal clien- early Hollywood stars. Josephine Baker, performing (in town to promote his Blues Brothers redux). “Pedro Tetou every year. It’s part of the trip.” Many hotel showing no support, however, the restaurant’s cooked slowly in broth (bouillabaisse translates, tele, familial vibe—which would make it impossible to in Nice, came to dine. Isadora Duncan met a dashing Almodóvar,” says Marquise. “We send him our jams regulars reserve a table at the restaurant the minute future is beginning to look bleak. “For the moment essentially, as “boil then simmer”), then deboned replicate elsewhere, say in Dubai or New York. young man there one evening—or so the story goes— in Spain. George Clooney; he was super funny, except they check in—just as Hollywood mogul Marvin Davis we’re arguing that everything can be taken down,” tableside on rolling carts. The fillets are served on sil- The restaurant’s legend begins with Ernest Cirio, who would later cause her death when her silk scarf that he was flirting with my wife in the parking lot.” did moments after arriving in July 1993. Never mind says Marquise. “With the elections, though, they’re ver trays, with potatoes, croutons and rouille, and the a young fisherman who went by the nickname Tetou. got caught in the wheel of his car. When World War II Marquise came of age in the restaurant—Tetou is that armed thieves had held up his limousine en route not focused on this. I think we’re safe for the next rich, rustic soup in a serve-yourself tureen. He was born to a washerwoman and a baker in the reached the French Riviera, the restaurant shut down JEAN PIGOZZI (3) his great-grandfather on his mother’s side. When his to the hotel from the airport, swiping $10 million in year at least.” •

126 wsj. magazine ThE E xchaNGE

Paulin) and obscure (the artists’ collective Atelier the families and estates of the designers, an effort Design was also a constant for Danant, who grew CONTINENTAL STYLE A). “We like to tell the story and not isolate an object that rewards persistence and patience, which Danant, up in Paris and today lives in the third arrondisse- Suzanne Demisch, of from its context when possible,” Demisch says. This 51, has in abundance. It took him seven years of com- ment with his wife and 9-year-old son. His father was gallery Demisch Danant, photographed in her New September, she and Danant are opening a West municating with the family of designer Joseph-André a furniture dealer—“the last business I wanted to York home. The gallery’s Village gallery that is more than double the size of Motte to be granted access to his sketchbooks and files. do,” Danant says. He attended Sotheby’s educational co-founder, Stephane their former Chelsea place. “This space allows us to Motte, who died in 2013, was one of a band of creatives program in London, which led to some auction house Danant, is based in Paris. do both—it’s like a Milanese townhouse.” who shaped the aesthetics of his time, designing inte- jobs. In 1992, he co-founded a gallery representing In 2005, when Demisch and Danant opened their riors of the Louvre and the Orly and Charles de Gaulle young painters. Art drew him to design. “At first it first gallery, the audience for 20th-century design, par- airports in Paris, as well as furniture and lighting. was lamps, because they were cheap,” he says, later ticularly the later decades, was still nascent. Yet they “He made use of the newest materials and techniques adding, “Their sculptural aesthetics attracted me.” It found themselves drawn to the fertile period of French available: molded plywood, Formica, plastic. He was proved a gateway drug to larger objects: chairs, cre- postwar reconstruction when the cultural ministry, the first in France to use stainless steel for furniture,” denzas and his particular obsession, desks. “It’s the under the leadership of André Malraux, energetically says Danant. The gallery has been introducing Motte’s piece that feels closest to the designer’s heart. But supported design, leading to public commissions rang- work in shows and will soon publish a monograph. desks can be very hard to sell. ing from metro stations to Georges Pompidou’s Élysée Another success story is the revival of Pergay, who “I feel ’60s and ’70s design in a certain way,” Palace residence. Demisch and Danant presciently saw began designing furniture and accessories in the late LIVING LEGENDS Danant adds, “because I grew up in Paris during that Rare pieces from in the pieces of the era attributes that collectors covet: ’50s. Once well known, with lines for Hermès and Demisch Danant period.” When he was a kid, his father opened a con- formal inventiveness and technological innovation as Dior, Pergay had fallen out of public view by the ’90s. include, from top: temporary furniture shop on Avenue Victor Hugo. well as a timeless quality and the ability to live along - Demisch, drawn to the expressive pieces in stainless Pierre Paulin’s 1971 “Only later did I learn that the door handle—a bronze Élysée bookshelf; side contemporary art. Rarity is also a factor: Many steel she discovered at flea markets and unable to find Joseph-André Motte’s lion’s head—was designed by Maria Pergay.” A simi- examples exist solely as prototypes or were produced much information on Pergay, set out to write a book Radar chair, 1955; lar eureka moment occurred when Danant discovered in limited editions. Demisch and Danant now mount on her. She tracked Pergay down in Morocco, where a 2007 stool by Maria that the lamps in his family’s country house were by Pergay; a 1962 table by three heavily researched exhibitions a year, appear at she was then running a guesthouse; she had begun René-Jean Caillette. Michel Boyer, whose work the gallery now showcases. international design fairs and publish weighty books traveling to the Middle East in the ’70s to work for “I hadn’t known what this stuff was growing up. But and catalogues raisonnés. They also discreetly advise the Saudi royal family. “I telephoned her out of the when I started working with this material profession- clients like Robins and his wife, Jackie Soffer, on col- blue one day in 2004, and a few days later I was on ally, all the memories came flooding back.” lections of all genres, and Demisch takes on a handful a plane,” explains Demisch. The two hit it off, and Demisch and Danant wanted to celebrate these of interior design projects, with clients including Demisch encouraged her to reboot her career. Today, undersung icons—and design as a discipline on par Dayan and Lindemann. The design market is growing: the 1968 Ring chair that Demisch and Danant bought with fine art. They started collaborating informally This June, the major auction houses sold a record $30 in the early 2000s for $1,500 fetches upward of around 2000. “At that point, we were just having fun million of 20th-century furniture and objects. “Look $43,000 at auction. New-production designs are even finding and selling things,” says Demisch. “But as we at Royère, Prouvé, Perriand—all that stuff from the pricier, ranging from $16,000 to $425,000. “She has developed more relationships and clients, we real- ’40s and ’50s: It’s blue chip now,” says Demisch, 49. “It one idea after the next,” says Demisch. In November ized we needed a space.” In 2005, Demisch Danant took 20 years to create that market.” the gallery will showcase new Pergay creations opened in Chelsea and debuted a buzzed-about booth “Suzanne and Stephane have a passion for the alongside unseen working drawings, many executed at the inaugural installment of the Design Miami works they represent and design in general,” says on napkins or dashed off on hotel stationery. fair. The next year, the partners collaborated with arts patron Dasha Zhukova, an interiors client “Her working process is so immediate; there’s art gallery Lehmann Maupin on a Pergay show, at a and the founder of Moscow’s Garage Museum of such energy,” says Demisch. “I always think, How time when such alignments were unusual. The busi- Contemporary Art. “The storytelling adds context can I translate that for others? That’s what we always ness grew, and the need to expand again prompted and dimension. The collaboration between us is also aspire to do with the gallery.” this fall’s move to the new location. STUDY IN DESIGN an important part of their process, making for a more Both gallerists practice what they preach in their meaningful collection.” With their guidance, she has EMISCH AND DANANT met at Paris flea mar- own homes, particularly Danant, since they don’t acquired pieces by French designers Maria Pergay ket Paul Bert Serpette, where Danant had a keep a separate showroom in Paris. “My wife is like, FINDING GLORY and Jacqueline Lecoq, as well as decorative artist booth that Demisch frequented. The pair ‘There’s no room for it! Get this out!’ ” Danant says. and furniture designer René-Jean Caillette. bonded over their affinity for ’70s design. Demisch is currently conjoining her East Village co-op Suzanne Demisch is one-half of gallery Demisch Danant, which Demisch Danant’s airy new location has a domestic D“The mid-’90s was an exciting time, when these with the neighboring apartment, previously owned vibe that makes it easier for collectors to appreciate, pieces were first coming onto market,” says Danant. by the photographer and painter Saul Leiter, into a opens a major new Manhattan space this fall, the better to champion say, a César Expansion table or a Pierre Paulin Élysée “We liked them but we didn’t know what they were, space for her and her 9-year-old son. Pieces by Paulin a fresh frontier: French design from the ’50s through the ’70s. chair. “We like presenting in a living environment if and there were no books to tell us.” and Pergay, whose works Demisch finds especially liv- possible,” says Demisch. So much about a designer Demisch, who grew up in Bloomfield, Connecticut, able, mix with Americana, furnishings by Frank Lloyd or movement “can be understood through mood started antiquing as a hobby in her teens, initially Wright and contemporary objects. Her Accord, New BY JEN RENZI PORTRAIT BY CLÉMENT PASCAL and atmosphere,” adds Danant. Architect Rafael de gravitating to Americana. After graduating with a York, country home is also a work in progress; she has Cárdenas, who has created boutiques for Cartier, Nike degree in international relations from the University spent the past two years building—and rebuilding— and Delfina Delettrez, helped find the space, formerly of Southern California, she did brief stints at the the property’s dry stone walls by hand. HEN SUZANNE DEMISCH looks around that are still under the radar for many collectors and the Italian bookstore and de facto cultural institution Environmental Protection Agency and at Woods Hole The new gallery will open with a sweeping exhi- her Manhattan design gallery at the curators. She and her Paris-based partner, Stephane S.F. Vanni. He raised the ceiling and created a traver- Oceanographic Institution. She also had begun deal- bition that will include 1970 Pergay stainless-steel stainless-steel lamps, sculptural glass Danant, often spend their days like an elegant pair tine-floored space that can be subdivided, allowing ing part-time, and in 1993, she moved to the city to GREAT IMPORT armchairs alongside ’60s and ’70s lamps from tables and marshmallow-like chairs of private detectives: piecing together the histories for a white-box gallery or more intimate settings. pursue an M.F.A. in folk art from New York University. Clockwise from the French architectural lighting workshop Verre Wthat might be on display at any time, she doesn’t of forgotten visionaries, digging through archives, “They are so unlike most dealers,” says de Cárdenas, After she earned her degree, she dedicated herself to right: A 1962 Lumiere and wall pieces by textile artist Sheila cabinet by Antoine just see ways to furnish a room. She sees the chance knocking on doors and locating once-lost pieces. who met the pair when buying pieces for clients. “They dealing full-time.“I launched a website back in 1995, Philippon and Hicks. “We wanted to transmit the energy of the to discover a narrative. “There’s so much to know They’ve cultivated a strong following, with clients don’t have something for everyone.” when there were only like 10 design dealers on the Jacqueline Lecoq; moment we started this, what caused the spark,” about a chair, and that’s what makes it exciting,” says including Design Miami founder Craig Robins and While Demisch runs the gallery and takes the lead internet,” she says. As Demisch spent more time in Michel Boyer’s says Demisch. “It’s still happening today. It’s easy 1974 Brasília lamp; Demisch, who specializes in French design, primar- collectors Amalia Dayan and Adam Lindemann, by on client relations, Danant initiates much of the archi- Europe purchasing inventory, her aesthetic evolved Élysée chairs to think, ‘Oh, everything’s been uncovered already,’ ily pieces from the ’50s through the ’70s, decades promoting talents both well known (designer Pierre val research and sourcing. He also often works with COURTESY OF DEMISCH DANANT from New England fare to new-wave French. by Paulin. but that’s not true.” •

128 wSj. maGazINE THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE.

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES: NEW YORK · BAL HARBOUR SHOPS BEVERLY HILLS · LAS VEGAS MILLENARY IN PINK GOLD TEL: 888.214.68.58 | AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM TEL: 888.214.68.58 | AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM BRAND NEW DAY

Swoop into fall with a major statement piece. Chloé cape, Ralph Lauren Collection turtleneck and Proenza Schouler boots. CLASSIC ROCK

The beginning of autumn brings a bounty of sophisticated, sumptuous styles in every texture, from fur and suede to leather and tweed.

JOYFUL TIERS Set the cold-weather standard in a voluminous PHOTOGRAPHY BY LACHLAN BAILEY fur coat. Marc Jacobs STYLING BY LUDIVINE POIBLANC patchwork fur jacket, Proenza Schouler turtleneck, Joseph leather pants and Loewe loafers.135 INTELLIGENT DESIGN Revel in the magic of unexpected proportions. Prada fur coat, Miu Miu shirt and shorts and Mikimoto pearl necklace. Opposite: Miu Miu sweater, Stella McCartney pants 136 and Hermès bracelet. BUSINESS CLASS Fashion-forward tailoring transforms the standard suit. Balenciaga wool jacket, pants and boots and Hermès turtleneck and bracelet. Opposite: Gucci fur coat and Ralph Lauren pants. FANCY PANTS New cuts and fabrics take trousers in a different direction. Dior wool bomber jacket, Oscar de la Renta turtleneck, Marni trousers and Balenciaga boots. Opposite: Céline dress and pants, Mikimoto pearl necklace and Loewe loafers.

140 PERFECTLY POSED Intricate details like polkadots and patches make a big impact. Left: Bottega Veneta sweater, top and pants. Opposite: Loewe top and skirt. SWEET EMOTION In leather or patchwork fur, these coats evoke a far-out mood. Proenza Schouler fur coat and boots and Acne bodysuit. Opposite: Calvin Klein Collection jacket, Hermès turtleneck, Michael Kors Collection pants, Mikimoto pearl necklace and Balenciaga boots. Model, Mica Arganaraz at DNA Models; hair, James Pecis; makeup, Francelle. For details see Sources, page 193. Streep Savvy In this month’s Florence Foster Jenkins, directed by Stephen Frears, Meryl Streep gives full-throated life to an eccentric socialite and self-styled diva—and her uproarious off-key singing.

BY ALEX BHATTACHARJI PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIGITTE LACOMBE STYLING BY ANASTASIA BARBIERI

ON THE COUCH Frears’s film is based on the life of Florence Foster Jenkins, part of whose appeal, says Streep, involves “our prurient interest in other people’s vanity.” The Row coat and Céline boots; daybed by Jean Royère. 145 HEN MERYL STREEP steps from Jenkins was born in 1868, in Wilkes-Barre, her limousine onto the red Pennsylvania, to a family of means—her father made carpet in London’s Leicester his fortune in railroads and banking. Forbidden Square, everything about her from pursuing a career in music by her father, she comportment—as she strikes rebelled, eloping with Dr. Frank Thornton Jenkins. poses with castmates Hugh The union didn’t last long, but its aftereffects—he WGrant and Simon Helberg, greets fans along the gave her syphilis—colored the rest of her life. In stanchions and hugs past co-stars like Stanley Tucci 1909, the same year Jenkins’s father died and she who’ve turned out for her—announces that she’s been came into her inheritance, she met St. Clair Bayfield, here before. “It’s quite a scene, isn’t it?” she later says a Shakespearean actor from England who became about the glittery film premiere. “It doesn’t get old. her common-law husband as well as her publicist and I mean, who gets to see a movie with 1,600 people?” manager. Jenkins launched her singing career in her With her hair in an elegant but simple updo, 40s, using her wealth to underwrite her passion. Streep confidently strides the red carpet in a black “She had this need for attention,” says Donald silk jumpsuit, heeled ankle boots and a long, beaded Collup, who wrote and produced the 2008 documen- statement necklace. As she reaches the entrance to tary Florence Foster Jenkins: A World of Her Own. the theater, the emcee for the event introduces the “She had to be the focus.” This was true as she staged, star of Florence Foster Jenkins to a cheering crowd. with Bayfield’s help, a series of recitals—many under He then asks her, “We know you can sing, because we the auspices of the Verdi Club, a private organiza- heard you sing in Mamma Mia. So how difficult is it tion she founded—that became must-see events for to sing badly?” New York society. According to a newspaper clip- She smiles. “Surprisingly easy.” ping about one of Jenkins’s 1934 performances, “The Streep does not hit a false note at the premiere— audience, as Mrs. Jenkins’ audiences invariably do, until the film rolls. Inside the theater, the crowd behaved very badly. In the back of the hall men and watches as the actress appears on-screen bedecked women in full evening dress made no attempt to con- in jewels, fur and a tiara as trol their laughter.” Jenkins’s Florence Foster Jenkins, an performances were, accord- eccentric socialite who fan- “There’s ThaT ing to Collup, akin to “the cied herself an opera singer greaT VincenT first rounds of American Idol, and whose peculiar career cul- where performers who have minated in a legendary 1944 Van gogh QuoTe: no business singing get up performance at Carnegie Hall ‘i am seeking, and think they’re great and that sold out within two hours. i am sTriVing, i am make fools of themselves. The When I sit down with Streep in iT wiTh all general public always watches and the film’s director, Stephen those rounds—because Frears, later at a photo studio my hearT.’ ThaT’s they’re funny.” in London’s Camden Town, The aspiraTion.” Frears’s film synthe- Streep describes Jenkins’s —meryl sTreep sizes the last several years pursuit of her dream in noble, of Jenkins’s life. Initially, artistic terms. “There’s that she’s insulated from criti- great Vincent van Gogh quote: ‘I am seeking, I am cal reviews as Bayfield (portrayed with poker-faced striving, I am in it with all my heart.’ That’s the aspi- aplomb by Hugh Grant) handpicks her audience and ration.” The self-styled soprano had another thing pays reporters to write sycophantic reviews. But in common with the Dutch painter: She famously after one of her recordings becomes unexpectedly lacked an ear. (She also lacked rhythm, tone and any popular and finds its way onto the radio, Jenkins self-awareness about her singing ability.) History decides to stage a concert for her adoring public remembers Jenkins’s screeching, caterwauling voice (her fans eventually included Cole Porter and Enrico in superlative terms: “the world’s worst singer.” Caruso). The movie traces the singer’s growing Even so, many who snickered or guffawed upon hear- desire to seek out the spotlight, set against Bayfield’s ing Jenkins would come around to applaud her. “She increasingly tortuous efforts to keep her from being seems to have known the pleasure people got,” Frears scorched by it—culminating in the Carnegie Hall says of Jenkins. “There was laughter, and she seems concert, where she’s greeted with hails of laughter not to have minded.” and repeated curtain calls. Both Streep and Frears, the 75-year-old director In the decades following her death one month of My Beautiful Laundrette, Dangerous Liaisons and after the concert, Jenkins amassed a cult follow- Philomena, proudly point out that Florence Foster ing (among her admirers: Barbra Streisand and Jenkins is an homage to studio pictures from the David Bowie). Jenkins’s performance remains ’30s and ’40s. Yet there was something undeniably one of the most requested from the concert hall’s viral (or proto-viral) about Jenkins’s popularity in archives—except it was never recorded. “You get her day. Her singing has the infectious exuberance asked about Benny Goodman, the Beatles, Judy of today’s amateur renditions of Adele’s “Hello” or Garland—Florence is right up there with them,” says MAKE ’EM LAUGH Streep refers to the “Evolution of Dance” videos on YouTube, where Gino Francesconi, director of the Archives and Rose her role as “one of Jenkins’s few extant recordings—including a sublime Museum at Carnegie Hall. “All the things she did in the most fun things massacre of Mozart’s Queen of the Night aria and a her life led up to this. She was 76 and making her I’ve ever done, without question.” dumbfounding version of “Adele’s Laughing Song” Carnegie Hall debut. Why didn’t she record or photo- Azzedine Alaïa coat. from Strauss’s Die Fledermaus—can be heard today. graph the concert? It’s so odd.”

147 WELL MATCHED “If you’re stupid, she’ll let you know,” says Frears of Streep. On Streep: Max Mara coat, Charvet blouse, Céline wool pants, Church’s shoes, Cartier bangle, Streep’s own ring and Fred Leighton earrings. On Frears: Lanvin coat, Berluti shirt, Frears’s own pants and Church’s shoes; armchair by Jean Royère. It’s easy to see Jenkins’s need to perform as an LTHOUGH Florence Foster Jenkins is expression of her ego, or even narcissism (her given Streep and Frears’s first film together, name was Narcissa Florence Foster). Too easy, they already knew each other socially, according to Streep, who views Jenkins as deeply and when Frears called to say he had a insecure, not simply overcome with delusions of script for her, Streep signed on with- grandeur—though she grants the latter might be out even reading it. The trust carried part of Jenkins’s appeal. “It’s also our prurient inter- Aover to filming, as Frears rarely gave his star notes. est in other people’s vanity,” Streep says, “imagining When he did, Frears delivered them with great care. that it has nothing to do with our own.” “If you’re stupid, she’ll let you know,” he says. As played by Streep, Jenkins is driven by a “I’m a diva—is that what you’re saying?” she says force more powerful than vanity, as if her entire with a laugh. Later she adds, “You would just look at life—simultaneously privileged and tragic, with me like”—she raises an eyebrow—“and I would say, the specter of death a constant companion—was ‘OK, I’ll do it again, I’ll do it again. Let me do it again, animated by the joy of singing. “Her personal chal- let me do it again.’ ” lenges,” Streep says of her alter ego, “what was During production, which took place in the U.K., stalking her in her life, made her make a decision to Frears would invoke a well-known film-world witti- live every second deeply, intensely and to her joy.” cism: “We’re making a movie together—let’s hope it’s That, in turn, drove Streep’s decision to make the same one.” As it turned out, they discovered they this movie: “To choose the one that chooses joy— had a simple, shared vision: to entertain. and there are a lot of reasons to go and to explore “I thought this would give pleasure,” says Frears. the endless dystopian vortex into nihilism—is say- “I put that high on the list,” says Streep. ing, ‘Music matters, love matters.’ What’s the value Much of that relied on pacing, says Frears. “This in being alive right now? It’s saying, ‘There is value.’ film depends on lightness—like a soufflé.” That’s in there.” Despite wrestling with And in some ways the film some weighty themes, the ultimately functions as an “her process creation achieves the desired expression of Streep’s outlook does noT lift. “We actually talked on life and art—the spiritual exclude. iT’s like about how it was somewhere child of Mamma Mia and The between Chekhov and the Marx Hours, and the apotheosis of she sees in 360 Brothers,” says Helberg, who The Devil Wears Prada star’s degrees, and plays Jenkins’s young piano devil-may-care period. It’s so she’s accompanist, Cosmé McMoon. telling that Streep calls including It’s through his eyes that our Florence Foster Jenkins “one view of Jenkins evolves from of the most fun things I’ve ever eVerybody and that of a deluded warbler to done, without question,” and eVery single something deeper, more sym- makes no excuses about hav- Thing ThaT pathetic. As her accompanist, ing chosen the project simply is happening in he shares an intimate connec- because it would be enjoyable. tion with Jenkins, supporting “Seems like a pretty damn The momenT.” her through her cringe-worthy good reason.” —simon helberg yet oddly compelling concerts. When I ask the 67-year- “There was this beautiful old actress if she enjoyed the relationship that you can find London premiere, she nods eagerly and lights up. in the music, in the transcriptions, too,” Helberg says. “It’s really nice to hear a whole place just rollicking, “You’d hear him pause because she forgot the lyric isn’t it? or give her a note that she forgot, or she’d skip a bar “I talked to Stanley,” Streep says of her friend and and he’d compensate or he’d change keys because she former co-star Stanley Tucci. “He brought the teen- couldn’t hit the last note.” agers, and they loved it—that’s even more important In one particularly poignant scene, Jenkins vis- than what Stanley thought, frankly.” its McMoon’s apartment and they play a Chopin As pleased as she is that Jenkins’s story resonates prelude together, he with his left hand, she with her with young people, Streep is also somewhat incredu- right. As badly as she sings, Jenkins was a piano lous at her own status as social-media meme. “I don’t prodigy as a child. But the ravages of syphilis and even know what that means,” Streep says with a mercury poisoning—used to treat the disease— laugh. She is at a loss as to how to explain Taste of withered her left arm and ended any hopes of a POWER RANGE Streep (@tasteofstreep), a buzzy Instagram account career as a concert pianist. “My biggest anxiety was that features image after image of the actress emerg- After they wrapped that emotionally taxing scene, that I couldn’t sing as ing from or melded into various foods. “People have Helberg recalls saying, “Here’s to giving up.” Streep high as she did,” Streep says. “She hit an F above too much time on their hands,” she says. “We need to corrected him: “No, no, no. Here’s to giving in.” It was high C. Do you know create more jobs!” a koan about life in the guise of acting advice that her how high that is? It’s And yet Streep recognizes the power of more co-star took to heart. “I thought, Oh, that’s what it is,” just insane.” The Row coat, Fred Leighton curious forms of entertainment—whether in wildly Helberg recalls, “giving in to these doubts and these bracelet and Streep’s off-key singing or her own face Photoshopped onto fears that everybody has, including the person con- own ring. Prop styling, fast food. She throws her arms up and laughs loudly sidered the best actor ever to live.” Emma Kay; Grooming for Frears: Paul at the absurdity. “My head is coming out of a chimi- While Streep, who has racked up a record 19 Donovan. For details changa. Can you imagine?” Academy Award acting (Continued on page 192) see Sources, page 193.

150 Romanian Holiday

Bucharest-born model Andreea Diaconu returns home to guide a tour of her beloved country, from the Transylvanian village of Viscri to the medieval town of Sighisoara, all while dressed in effortless styles that are ready for real life.

“A morning here equals a three-day meditation retreat,” says Diaconu. A traditional Romanian breakfast includes cucumbers, peppers, cheese and eggs. Versace sweater. Opposite: The Rupea Fortress, which dates to 1324, was constructed PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGELO PENNETTA on basalt rock. Isabel Marant sweater, Dries Van Noten shirt and pants and Vetements boots. STYLING BY EMILIE KAREH

153 From top: A view of the rolling Transylvanian landscape. Diacanou with a vintage Dacia 1310—“the first car From top: Diaconu with a furry resident of Viscri, a fortified village that is part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. I ever rode in,” she says. Givenchy fur coat, The Elder Statesman sweater, Lemaire pants, Charlotte Chesnais bracelet Chanel sweater, vintage Levi’s jeans, Delfina Delettrez ring and Charlotte Chesnais bracelet and earrings. In the village of and Delfina Delettrez earring. Crit, Transylvania. Vetements jacket, Ralph Lauren Collection sweater and shirt and Charlotte Chesnais earrings. In the countryside outside of Viscri. “Lazy Sundays are usually spent on the grass, having picnics Diaconu in front of the centuries-old fortified church in Crit. “People were much smaller, and walking up to its roof was and playing games,” Diaconu says. Missoni sweater and Balenciaga jeans. quite the challenge.” Michael Kors Collection sweater and shirt, Nehera pants and Dries Van Noten boots.

157 From top: In Viscri. “This reminds me of my neighbors’ backyard, where I used to steal green apples.” Giorgio Armani From top: Diaconu hams it up with Dracula—“your favorite Romanian.” Bram Stoker’s tale of Gothic horror was sweater and Lia Di Gregorio earring. Diaconu on a bridge in Sighisoara, renowned for its medieval architecture. Marc Jacobs first published in 1897. Fendi fur coat and jeans, Balenciaga bag, Diaconu’s own Birkenstock shoes and Sabine Getty rings. coat, Giorgio Armani turtleneck and pants and Lia Di Gregorio earring. “This is a classic Romanian car upgrade,” jokes Diaconu. From top: Diaconu waves her country’s flag; according to national legend, the colors are based on those of 16th-century ruler Michael the Brave. “I am the proudest Romanian,” she says. A.P.C. sweater, Delfina Delettrez earrings and Charlotte Chesnais ring. Diaconu in a familiar spot: “I grew up between Bucharest and Brasov,” a two-and-a-half-hour By the monastery church in Sighisoara. “Vlad the Impaler, aka Dracula, was born here. So that’s pretty cool cred.” drive north of the capital. Dolce & Gabbana shirt. Prada fur jacket, Rag & Bone sweater, Acne jeans and Delfina Delettrez ring.

161 In a market in Viscri. “Homemade woolly shoes: Can Céline make these already?” she says. Fendi jacket Ready to roll in front of one of the impressive entryways in Diaconu’s hometown of Brasov. A.P.C. sweater, and turtleneck, Alexander Wang sweater (around waist), Balenciaga pants, Oliver Peoples The Row sunglasses, Ralph Lauren Collection pants, Balenciaga boots, Dior bag and Delfina Delettrez ring. Model, Andreea Diaconu Diaconu’s own Birkenstocks and local clogs. at IMG Models. For details see Sources, page 193. HOT PLATES Alessandro Michele’s new Perroquets collection with Richard Ginori celebrates the wonders of nature—and the romance of the past.

BY SARAH MEDFORD PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARTYN THOMPSON

NTIQUE CARPETS. School uniforms. Fifties cin- ema. These are a few of Alessandro Michele’s favorite things, and each filters into the Gucci cre- ative director’s eclectic, fantasy-fueled approach to fashion. For his new collaboration with por- celain maker Richard Ginori, Michele, 43, drew Aupon another personal inspiration: exotic birds, which embel- lish his Perroquets collection of plates launching this month. The 12-piece offering, based on 19th-century French engrav- ings depicting brightly plumed parrots, echoes themes from his ready-to-wear collections, not least the flora and fauna motifs embroidered across jeans and bomber jackets. Michele’s influences have served him well thus far. Before assuming his current title in January 2015, the designer spent 13 years at Gucci in a variety of roles, from director of leather goods to head of accessories. When Gucci acquired Ginori in 2013, he started visiting the archives of the distinguished porcelain house in Florence, where both historic brands have roots. The vintage- obsessed designer gravitated toward a cache of botanical prints, including one rare French volume from 1801 on specimen birds. FLIGHTS OF FANCY Michele “liked them so much he decorated our stores with the The 12-piece collection, which features up to 16 prints,” says Ginori product development director Marco Bondi. hand-decorated layers per “The idea then evolved to produce them on plates.” plate, took Ginori artisans During the yearlong development process, the engravings’ almost a year to develop. Plates, $295 each, original hues were matched, but artisanal techniques were richardginori1735.com updated so that translucent veils of colored glaze could be lay- for store locations. ered on with silkscreen. For Michele, such blending of old and Fabric, Farnese Frieze 5326 in citron monotones, new is more than just clever—it’s the way forward. • fortuny.com. Set design, Brian Kelly; prop styling, Conor Burke. 165 EMPIRE BUILDING Nordstrom is constructing a 363,000-square-foot store near Columbus Circle. “To a lot of people, if you are not Departments of Commerce in Manhattan, you don’t exist,” says Pete Nordstrom. Over the next three years, New York City’s vaunted department stores are reimagining themselves for the future of luxury shopping—and soon will be facing some stiff competition from a couple of out-of-towners: Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom.

BY CHRISTINA BINKLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTHEW PILLSBURY

LOOKING AHEAD “It has to be a shopping mecca,” says Neiman Marcus CEO Karen Katz. Neiman Marcus’s Hudson Yards site, due to be completed in 2018, overlooks the Hudson River and New Jersey.

167 ISING ON MANHATTAN’S far West Side, the acuity implied as well as the year it will be com- Karen Katz, says she was initially leery of open- being tested in smaller markets in the U.S. and The renovation has simplified a confusing assem- chief operating officer. There have been hiccups, New York City’s first Neiman Marcus, plete. This fall, Saks will reveal the beginning of a ing in New York City at the risk of cannibalizing Canada—for example, a multilingual staff and inter- blage of ceiling heights and interconnected rooms she says. There isn’t enough room for shoes. There set to open in September 2018, will major $250 million renovation of its landmark Fifth existing business. “I was cynical about whether national payment systems. At its new Vancouver that has haunted the store since the ’30s, when its are too few fitting rooms for busy weekends. In occupy 215,000 square feet in the new Avenue flagship, due to be largely complete by 2018. Neiman Marcus needed to be in Manhattan. We have store, Nordstrom has hired employees who speak, co-founder Edwin Goodman bought up the sur- menswear, classic pieces have undersold trendy Hudson Yards, a $25 billion office and And this month, Saks opens a stand-alone women’s- Bergdorf there,” she says. “I was very nervous when collectively, 25 languages, including Punjabi, Arabic rounding stores in order to expand Bergdorf, which items, leading to necessary tweaks in inventory housing complex that claims to be the focused store in the sleek Brookfield Place shopping we made the decision two and a half years ago.” The and Cantonese. The company expects the Manhattan grew even during the Great Depression. Now the and purchasing. And it turns out that services such Rlargest private real estate development in the U.S. center across from Ground Zero. population that will be drawn to the Hudson Yards outpost to be its highest-producing store, on par meandering layout will be streamlined, with high- as the Blind Barber—a barbershop and speakeasy The store will frame views of the Hudson River and “A few companies, after the 90-plus years that neighborhood—a mix of residences and offices that with its competitors, whose New York locations margin handbags assembled centrally on the ground that serves drinks like the Sweeney Ted and the Hot the High Line, and whisk shoppers by elevator from we’ve been here, have decided to come” to New York, will be served by an extension of the city’s No. 7 sub- yield at least 2.1 times the revenue of their next-best floor. There will also be a greater emphasis on fine Heather—cosmetic makeovers, lunches at Fred’s an entrance on Tenth Avenue to a concierge on the says Marc Metrick, president of Saks. “Well, we’ve way line—helped convince her. “I think it’s going to stores, says Pete Nordstrom. “We’re building this jewelry, with the store’s oft-forgotten 57th Street and after-work cocktails are outstripping manage- fifth floor, where they can pick up items they have been here. And we’re not backing down.” bring us a U.S. customer who may not venture into store for the next 100 years,” says Jamie Nordstrom, entrance expanded into a grand new entry for the ment expectations. So the store is in search of more purchased online. Farther up at Columbus Circle, By the time the dust has settled in a few years Bergdorf now,” says Katz. She describes her current the company’s president of stores. jewelry salon, which will be stocked with brands bartenders, extroverts preferred. also on the West Side, Nordstrom is erecting a there will be more than 1.5 million new or renovated frame of mind as “giddy with excitement” about Meanwhile, with its two new downtown stores, that are new to Bergdorf. There is also a new private 363,000-square-foot store in part in Central Park square feet of shoes, handbags, ready-to-wear and the store, which will overlook the Hudson River which will be a combined 100,000 square feet, viewing room—formerly, sales associates took big NCE UPON A TIME, department stores Tower, a structure that aims to be the tallest resi- jewelry vying for the attention of department store and the High Line, and feature a restaurant and Saks is aiming to cater to tourists as well as the spenders to an office borrowed from an executive, were the original lifestyle brands. dential building in the Western Hemisphere. With shoppers. Thus far, New York outposts of the major potentially a spa. Neiman Marcus is also exploring Goldman Sachs and Condé Nast crowds that work often Schulman. He says, “I have to admit, we would From a baby’s rattle to a boy’s first wiring for a full digital experience, the store will luxury department stores are nearly universally cutting-edge amenities, such as mirrors that offer near Brookfield Place. With an eye to the harried have to clean up our desks quickly sometimes.” suit to the wedding registry to con- enable customers to use a smartphone app to send the highest-value properties in their chains, pro- shoppers 360-degree views of themselves, which lives of New York professionals, Saks will offer con- With the store’s new gray paint scheme and fur- dolence stationery, they catered to apparel to a fitting room without having to rifle ducing roughly twice the revenue per square foot Katz describes as “an out-of-body experience.” Given veniences such as a one-hour service dubbed Power nishings that mix vintage finds with custom designs the circle of life. Customers found the through racks. A shopping suite dubbed the JWN of other locations, between $1,200 and $1,500 per New York’s competitive environment, she says, Lunch: A client could shop in private dressing rooms such as a huge glass folding screen based on Eileen Ostore that best matched their tastes and offered up Room (the initials of Nordstrom founder John W. square foot, according to industry sources. Yet, as “Neiman Marcus needs to be a shopping mecca.” staffed by one of the store’s stylists, receive on-the- Grey’s famous lacquered screens, the concept is resi- their loyalty. “It never was only about the shopping Nordstrom), complete with lounge and bath, allows one luxury-brand executive points out, the city isn’t For Nordstrom (which expects to open in 2019), spot clothing alterations and then enjoy a 30-minute dential–cum–Met Museum. The haute-home design aspect,” says Michael Lisicky, a department store for privacy—and space for an entourage. “The bar gets raised in New York. We’ve got to go into it having a different point of view about what it takes to be successful,” says Pete Nordstrom, the BROWSING company’s co-president, talking about its first flag- ship in the city. “To a lot of people, if you’re not in HISTORY Manhattan, you don’t exist.” For more than a century, New York City has been home to a constellation of department stores, whose openings, closings and transformations Since the 19th have charted the fortunes and foibles of the city century, New York’s itself. They have represented the forefront of luxury grand department retail: Henri Bendel brought Coco Chanel’s designs stores have offered to the U.S. in 1913, while Bergdorf Goodman helped introduce America to the concept of Parisian haute a wide array of couture. Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and luxuries under one Macy’s endured the Great Depression and the world roof. Some have wars, while Barneys New York went from being a discount suit–seller to the place that forged mar- merged, some have kets for international designers like Giorgio Armani closed and some A.T. STEWART BERGDORF SAKS FIFTH BARNEYS and Azzedine Alaïa. Along the way, some beloved EST. 1823 MACY’S, EST. 1858 GOODMAN AVENUE NEW YORK have expanded, but CLOSED 1896 Former ship’s captain BONWIT TELLER EST. 1901 EST. 1902 EST. 1923 institutions have been eulogized, their buildings the city shops on. Alexander Turney LORD & TAYLOR Rowland Hussey BLOOMINGDALE’S B. ALTMAN EST. 1895 Tailors Herman The Fifth Avenue GIMBELS Barney Pressman’s demolished or repurposed—Bonwit Teller and Stewart built his EST. 1826 Macy—whose red star EST. 1861 EST. 1865 CLOSED 1990 Bergdorf and Edwin location of the store EST. 1910 Chelsea store began B. Altman & Co. among them. The survivors, housed white “marble Founded by Samuel tattoo is said to have Founders Joseph and CLOSED 1989 The now-shuttered Goodman’s emporium originally founded by CLOSED 1986 with discount palace” at Broadway Lord and his cousin inspired the store’s Lyman Bloomingdale One of the first to store had a glittering sold its own designs Andrew Saks opened Bernard Gimbel menswear, eventually in aging and often awkwardly configured buildings, and Chambers Street, George Washington logo—sold carpets, originally specialized leave the Ladies’ Mile past: Salvador and Paris fashions. In in 1924, where the Art brought this now- transitioning to are now being challenged by thinly staffed fast-fash- selling everything Taylor, it came lace and hosiery. By in hoop skirts in the West 20s for Dalí created risqué 1928, it moved to the Deco displays were defunct Midwest high-end retail and ion emporiums, discount outlets and the growth of from French gloves to specialize in 1924, it took up a before widening an uptown location, window designs in Fifth Avenue site of modeled on the Paris bargain chain to debuting designers to boys’ suits. At American designers million square feet their scope. The Art opposite the Waldorf- 1939, and Audrey Cornelius Vanderbilt Expo. Nearly 90 years New York City with like Giorgio Armani. online shopping. his death in 1876, like Adrian and Lilly on Herald Square; Deco building on Astoria hotel, in Hepburn shopped II’s mansion. In 1972 later, the Saks chain a block-long store It opened on Madison Yet 150 years after the department store’s first his estate was worth Daché. Today, there there are now nearly Lexington and 59th 1906. It sold luxuries there on breaks from it was acquired by was sold to Hudson’s opposite Macy’s, Avenue in 1993. heyday in New York, a tectonic shift in shopping is about $50 million are 50 locations 730 Macy’s stores Street was completed like a $40 ostrich fan filmingBreakfast at Neiman Marcus’s Bay Company for establishing a fierce Today, there are 15 ($100 billion today). across the country. nationwide. in the early ’30s. ($5,750 today). Tiffany’s. then-parent company. $2.4 billion in cash. rivalry. stores nationwide. taking place in the city. Over the next three years, a slate of new or newly renovated stores is aiming to make Manhattan once again a futuristic labora- tory of retail science—all despite the harshest retail growing new residents and tourists at the same rate the decision to open a Manhattan flagship is a swash- Beauty in a Flash facial. “We need to be dominant in has been a team effort led by Fargo, who says she historian and lecturer. “It was the social aspect. You environment since the Great Recession. With open it’s growing stores, so competition is about to get buckling move for the low-key company, whose core this market,” says Saks’s Metrick of New York. wants to “break down some of the selling ceremony” spent the day—these places kind of owned you.” floor plans, art installations and locavore eater- more heated. strategy has been to let others compete with lav- From his perch uptown, Bergdorf Goodman’s to create a more touchable, friendly experience. The department store itself was a product of the ies, they are intended to be entertainment zones as This confrontation is taking place in the world’s ish stores while it focuses on a plain and simple president, Josh Schulman, says, “We welcome the A similar exercise is at play in the new down- Industrial Revolution, which created mass-produced much as shopping centers. In February, Barneys New largest fishbowl. “New York is the flagship location approach to shopping. Nordstrom chose its site for competition.” For the first time in 30 years, the luxury town Barneys, which opened in February in the goods and shopaholics. In 1825, Arnold Constable & York reopened its Chelsea location, complete with a for many retailers, and it’s scrutinized more than its central location in Manhattan and expansive col- retailer has embarked upon a gut renovation of its main precise building it vacated in 1993 (and which sub - Co. opened a small dry-goods shop on Front Street at barbershop, a bar and an outpost of the restaurant other locations,” says Robert Burke, a fashion and umn-free floors. Solid waveform glass facades along floor, to be revealed in September. “We’re 115 years sequently served as a Loehmann’s discount fashion the southernmost tip of Manhattan. A few decades Fred’s. Bergdorf Goodman, which is owned by the retail consultant who formerly was fashion direc- 57th and 58th streets by designer James Carpenter old, and we want to be thought of as a top-of-mind des- outlet). The store, an ancillary arm of Barneys’s later, A.T. Stewart flung open the doors to his white Dallas-based Neiman Marcus Group, unveils the tor of Bergdorf Goodman. “If anyone is unsuccessful are intended to wow passersby and shed abundant tination,” says Bergdorf’s senior vice president and uptown flagship and, at 55,000 square feet, a frac- “marble palace” on Broadway and Chambers. Over next stage of a rejuvenation of its Beaux-Arts build- here, it’s a very public and very critical step.” light onto the goods on display. Nordstrom is plan- style gatekeeper, Linda Fargo, a 20-year veteran with tion of its size, will be its fourth most productive the next hundred years or so, stores followed New

ing this fall. The project is dubbed BG 20/20, both for Neiman Marcus’s chief executive and president, ning to use design and digital concepts currently NO CREDIT; MCNY/GOTTSCHO-SCHLEISNER/GETTY IMAGES; IMAGES GEO. P. HALL SOCIETY/GETTY HISTORICAL & SON/THE NEW YORK MCNY/EDMUND VINCENT GILLON; MCNY/SAMUEL H. GOTTSCHO;FISCHER; MCNY/WURTSWILLIAM BROS; J. MCNY/SIGURDROEGE/THE NEW YORK HISTORICALCONTRIBUTOR/GETTY SOCIETY/GETTY IMAGES;IMAGES; BETTMANN/COURTESY OF BARNEYS NEW YORK the store. “The stakes feel higher than ever.” store by year’s end, says Daniella Vitale, Barneys’s York’s wealthy shoppers from the Lower East Side up

168 to 34th Street (though Macy’s had to transport shop- made the leap to include apparel in 1963. It is still run has been outperforming expectations in the first half Other department stores are doing the same—cre- In fact, U.S. consumers are showing signs of retail downturn include an election year’s distrac- pers north to its Herald Square location in the early by the extensive Nordstrom family, and it is publicly of 2016, according to people familiar with the com- ating convenient mechanisms to pick up or return shopping fatigue. Clothing and accessory sales tions and millennials’ purported lack of interest in days), and eventually to the famous Fifth Avenue traded on the New York Stock Exchange. Saks also pany. (A Perry Capital spokesman didn’t respond to goods in store. grew an anemic 1.8 percent in 2015, according to saving money to buy “It” handbags. The question is, corridor and the Upper East Side. expanded around the country, surviving the 1970s requests for comment.) “We have to work harder all the time,” says Alison the U.S. Department of Commerce. In the first five Is this a blip or a new reality? Five years after Andrew Saks’s store was incor- era of corporate consolidation as it was sold, then Loehnis, president of Net-a-Porter Group. “New York months of 2016, sales barely grew at all—just a “It’s not a pretty world for retail right now,” says porated as Saks & Co. in New York in 1902 (the same sold twice again in the 1990s. Canadian conglom- ODAY, WHAT IS OLD is new again. By is an incredibly, incredibly valuable market. The size paltry 0.2 percent. The aftermath has played out Saks’s Metrick. But, he adds, “we’re in this for the year Macy’s moved to 34th Street), Neiman Marcus erate Hudson’s Bay Co., which also owns the New piling on cafes, bars and hair salons, of business there is comparable to some countries.” in boardrooms from London to San Francisco. At long run.” was founded in Dallas. American retail was vibrant, York–based chain Lord & Taylor, bought Saks nearly department stores are hoping to Therein lies the rub: The essence of a luxury Burberry this year, Christopher Bailey was replaced Either way, fashion brands require convincing of fueled by New York’s commercial wealth and the three years ago, launching another round of expan- attract customers by returning to the brand’s charisma—and its most guarded asset—is its as CEO and handed a 75 percent pay cut after the the need for more products in the city, according to Texan oil boom. Saks merged with Gimbel Brothers in sion. Meanwhile, Barneys, which was founded in full service that made them beloved scarcity. Yet today there are already myriad places company’s disappointing financial results; Ralph several people close to their discussions. Meeting 1923 and, as Saks Fifth Avenue, has occupied its cur- 1923, moved uptown in 1993, the year after it opened in the first place. And service and in New York to buy a Givenchy handbag or Gucci loaf- Lauren announced a restructuring and layoffs in the demands of all the new stores will require care- rent building since 1924. In 1928, Bergdorf moved to a location in Chicago. Today, it has 15 stores nation- Texperience are taking on heightened importance in ers, from the department stores and specialty shops June; Scoop—a high-end specialty retailer that ful “divvying up” of products among stores, says Fifth Avenue and 58th Street, on the site of Cornelius wide, and since 2012, a controlling interest has been a market that’s being aggressively rushed by online to the brands’ own boutiques. Given the existing once helped launch new fashion labels—shut down one luxury-brand executive. Another says many Vanderbilt’s mansion, where it still sits today. Then owned by Richard Perry’s hedge fund, Perry Capital. sales. Net-a-Porter, for example, has been offering plethora of luxury products, today’s sudden rush of its stores this summer after 20 years. Gap shares brands often prefer to sell via their own stores and came the Great Depression, with winners and los- This summer, Perry Capital was said to have begun same-day delivery to New Yorkers for 10 years. Saks development can smack of corporate hubris. plunged after a promised turnaround failed to online channels, where it is easier to control pricing ers. Some of the survivors saw national expansion talks to sell a minority interest in the stores. Barneys is launching a service, dubbed Saks Save Me, that will “It does make you question how much is too much,” materialize this spring. Potential scapegoats for the and discounting. in mid-century, with single stores adding location send a sprinter van and stylist to deliver solutions says Robert Burke, the fashion and retail consultant. “You have to make a choice. You can’t be every- after location. Nordstrom—which began as a Seattle for fashion emergencies such as little black dresses “There’s only going to be so many points of sale where,” says Laurent Claquin, head of Kering BUYING TIME SHOP TALK shoe store called Wallin & Nordstrom in 1901—grew Manhattan department stores typically generate revenues for unexpected events and replacements for broken we can have in New York,” agrees Daniella Vitale at Neiman Marcus’s 215,000-square-foot space (above) will Americas, who oversees brands including Saint to include eight stores in the region by the 1950s and up to $1,500 per square foot. Above, the Nordstrom site. heels—all within 30 minutes when the store is open. Barneys. “There is some point where it gets saturated.” include a restaurant, spa and concierge for online purchases. Laurent, Gucci and (Continued on page 192)

171 PARTY MIX An outtake from Slim Aarons’s iconic shoot at the Kaufmann Desert House, designed by Richard Neutra, in Palm Springs, California, 1970.

THE SECRET OF SLIM

In an excerpt from the new photo book Slim Aarons: Women, Laura Hawk, who worked with the photographer for more than a decade, reflects on the man behind the lens and the many stylish subjects he captured.

BY LAURA HAWK PHOTOGRAPHY BY SLIM AARONS

173 self-satisfied and wearing a boyish grin. We unloaded his own film and operated his own light exchanged small talk as Slim gulped down meter. As for everything else that needed resolution a ginger ale—his drink of choice no matter on a shoot, he devised a formula of working with just where he was in the world. Never one to equiv- one other resourceful person, whom he liked to call a ocate, he began a deluge of questions that tuttofare. The modern definition of the Italian word is had to be answered immediately. “Can you a handyman—it literally means “do everything.” be ready to leave with little advance notice? As tuttofare I embraced any job that arose on Is your passport in order? Can you stand the location, from stylist to researcher, writer, muse, sun? Can you write? Can you walk up hills at bouncer, extra, diplomat and general problem solver. high altitudes? Do you speak any languages? When Santa Antonelli needed a specific undergar- Can you get up in the morning—early? Every ment for the dress Slim insisted she wear in a portrait morning?” “Um, yes,” I stammered, taken with her sister, Serena, I accompanied her shopping aback, though intrigued. I’d never heard of and charged the cost to Town & Country while Slim Slim Aarons. I’d been working on a cattle set up the shot at their Florentine palazzo. On a story ranch in Oklahoma since graduating from in Palm Beach, Florida, Slim refused to photograph college a few years earlier and had no clue socialite Dragana Lickle, who’d arrived for a cover about the famed, self-appointed roving edi- try for Town & Country with her hair overcoiffed. I tor of Town & Country, who was by then in his 60s. Then came Slim’s list of rules: “No heavy suitcases, no tennis rackets, no hair- dresser appointments, no minibar tabs, no RINGLEADER Swedish actress Britt Ekland, in Porto Ercole, Italy, 1969. shopping, no dry-cleaning, no days off, no boyfriends, no sightseeing and for God’s sake—no cameras.” “Not a problem,” I said. N THE SUMMER OF 1977 the celebrated photog- My unqualified assent to his list of demands must rapher Slim Aarons was lunching at the Hotel have been convincing, for after a bit more small talk, Goldener Hirsch in Salzburg, Austria, with he finally stood up to leave, signaling the end of the Princess Grace of Monaco and her 20-year- interview. At the door, as we shook hands, he told old daughter, Caroline. At one point, as he me in so many words that I’d gotten the job: “You’re later recounted time and again, Grace was going to love me, and you’re going to hate me.” Istruck by what she thought was a wonderful idea: So began a working relationship that would span “Oh, Slim, why not hire Caroline to work with you? more than 10 years, by the end of which I would move You two could travel around the world together!” with my young family to a house not far from Slim’s Caroline excitedly nodded her approval. As Slim home in Katonah, New York. He would become a sur- told the story, a devilish smile crept across his face. rogate grandfather to my two daughters, Catie and “Why, what a wonderful idea, Grace,” he replied, Kyra, and remain a great friend until his death in making it clear he was on a first-name basis with the 2006. By the end of the ’80s, Slim and I had logged princess. “But there’s just one more than 400,000 miles question,” he said. He already of travel, exploring some of knew the answer, but he “you’re going the most dazzling enclaves strung it along. “Caroline,” he to love me, of exclusivity in the world asked, leveling his gaze at her, and you’re going and reporting on the people, “can you get up in the morn- particularly the women, who ings—early? Every morning?” to hate me.” frequented them—from Babe They both looked at him, per- —slim aarons Paley, Marilyn Monroe and IN BLOOM plexed, and shortly thereafter Marlene Dietrich to Jacqueline French style icon Viscountess Jacqueline de Ribes on the terrace of her house in Ibiza, Spain, 1978. the subject changed. Kennedy, C.Z. Guest and the When it came to his work Duchess of Windsor. ethic, Slim Aarons made no Slim knew he’d have a bet- hastily washed her hair in my hotel sink, she blew it concessions, not even to prin- ter chance of being ushered dry and the photo made the cover. I waded through cesses. I would learn this into their worlds if he wasn’t a shallow pond in Palermo, Italy, to arrange a shot firsthand, in 1981, at the age of trailing a throng of assistants of Fabrizia Lanza di Mazzarino, at the 16th-century 25, after meeting Slim when carrying bags and equipment. Villa Tasca, reclining in a rowboat, and I donned he stopped by my mother’s His streamlined method of water skis in the frigid, Alpine-fed waters of Lake Park Avenue apartment. The operation was to carry a stain- Como for the background of a shot. informal interview had been less-steel briefcase with one On location around the world, people occasion- arranged through Frank camera—first a Leica, later a ally pulled me aside to ask what it was like working Zachary, then the editor of Nikon—plus a backup body, with Slim. He was a tireless professional, an old- Town & Country, a magazine a couple of lenses and a light world newspaperman whose only goal was to bring ETERNAL SUNSHINE Slim built his career around. meter. Nothing more. He mea- home the story. But knotted into Slim’s cockeyed Sunbathers, including Aarons’s friend and Slim was looking for a new sured out each day’s allotment optimism and his unyielding work ethic were some fellow photographer sidekick; I was considering a of Kodachrome film and carried darker threads—he could be short-tempered, con- Elisabetta Catalano job in New York after college. DESIGNING WOMEN it on his shoulder in a small, trolling and at times inexplicably anxious about (at top), at a hotel in Laura Hawk’s new photo book, Capri, Italy, 1980. Slim was exactly as I will Slim Aarons: Women, will be striped canvas bag. He handled being usurped. always remember him: upbeat, published in October by Abrams. his own luggage, loaded and This fear was never more apparent than when

174 The real evidence of détente came after a long flight like the way this looks—I think I’ll leave to Singapore in 1984, as we were about to disembark. it this way.” This pleased him immensely, I was gathering my things and chattering excitedly for his paramount desire was to make the about the adventure ahead, never having been to that subject and the scene better than how part of the world, when he looked at me and gave me he’d found them, to adorn their story with his ultimate compliment: “You know, Old Bean, your a bit of his own. For Slim this meant a con- good faults outweigh your bad faults.” tinual retelling of his romanticized notion No matter where in the world we landed, Slim’s of life and leisure—and by extension, his approach to magazine assignments was always the notion of consummate feminine beauty. same: Check in at the hotel, unpack and rest up in our Women, after all, provided the indis- rooms for a couple of hours—but never more! Then pensable inspiration for his work. He wake up and hit the streets, embarking on Slim’s first traveled the world for decades search- rule of on-location research, “poking around.” He ing for fascinating and beautiful people never took his camera out of its case before the third to photograph. Regardless of the type or day on the job. look he admired, in so many of his photo- Slim always carried with him a small, worn, black graphs of women there is a transcendent leather book, fastened with a rubber band, into which quality that endures. What is clear is that he had written the names and telephone numbers he favored photographing vibrant women of his many acquaintances. Integral to every story with great personal style and an abun- recipe was the handful of contacts he reached out to dance of confidence. immediately upon arrival—people he’d met on pre- As I think back on our years of trav- vious stories, the grandes dames he knew or their eling and working together, there were PRIVATE EYE descendants and locals with important titles or posi- Model and actress Renata Boeck at the Regency Hotel certainly many instances of exasperation tions. Through these individuals he found the places in New York, 1964. and isolation, but when you glide for a and faces that would make up each story. moment in the slipstream of someone like Finding the right women to photograph was of assignments. “From the minute he arrived on loca- him, it is exhilarating. He was an unfettered force of always the primary focus, as the central visual theme tion, he began to search for a handful of good-looking nature, an original who through his own drive and of nearly every magazine story he did was the local women or the latest pretty young trendsetter who vision created a body of work that is still relevant young beauty. “Whether it was the Italian Riviera, could give his story a touch of fairy-tale romance.” and revelatory. Upon arriving at his subject’s home, Slim first I’ve often reflected on the warning he gave me established a setting—an exquisite drawing room, the day we met. Did I love him and hate him, as he a sun-drenched garden or predicted? I did. He was quite com- an allée of hundred-year-old fortable being regarded this way. It walnut trees. The next deci- “i don’t do was simply and irrevocably who he sion was the subject’s clothing fashion. was, and there was nothing he could and appearance. Most often i take photos do about that. From time to time, he photographed his subjects with an uncharacteristic dash of in the clothes they appeared of people in humility and wonder at his own suc- in. However, if he chose a ball- their own cess, he’d shrug his shoulders, call room with gilded paneling for clothes, and up that boyish grin and sum it all up: the background, he asked the that becomes “I’m just a guy with a Brownie.”• subject to bring out a choice This article is adapted from Slim of more elegant clothing. He fashion.” Aarons: Women, by Laura Hawk, frowned upon women enhanc- —aarons forthcoming from Abrams in October. ing their hair or makeup, even for the dressier shots—he very much wanted his subjects to appear as they would in their everyday lives. “I don’t do fashion. I take photos of people in their own clothes, and that BODY OF WATER “This innocent photo was considered risqué,” Aarons once said of his image of socialite Alice Topping, in Palm Beach, 1959. becomes fashion,” he boasted. “People thought she was in her underwear.” There were three pieces of clothing he steadfastly refused to photograph and always asked his subjects to people solicited his advice on photography. Esteemed a Brownie—a simple, inexpensive camera made by it. I can’t do this anymore. I have to get a real job.” change out of: jeans, T-shirts as an expert in the field, Slim was often asked how Kodak that was used for taking snapshots. Then a few weeks later the office would call with and running shoes. FLIGHT PLAN to take pictures or what kind of camera to buy. He Not surprisingly, it took a while for the two of us preliminary plans to go to Lamu, Kenya; Bora Bora; A paraglider at Las Brisas Hotel, in Acapulco, The final decision was the understandably felt competitive with other profes- to iron out our working relationship. We bickered or Brunei, and my resolve instantly evaporated. I Mexico, 1968. arrangement of his subject in sional photographers, but it was an odd chink in our way around the world for at least a year, against believe that once Slim understood I didn’t want to the setting. Quite often, at the his armor that he seemed to fear competition from some of the most rarefied backdrops imaginable. control or usurp him and that in many ways I was cut the Swiss Alps or the Arizona desert, Slim captured end of one of Slim’s shoots, amateurs as well. He made no mention of Nikons, Slim frequently reminded me that there were a dozen from a similar cloth, he gradually began to trust me. the essence of a place through his photographs of with entire rooms having been Leicas or Canons, the leading cameras of the day. others waiting to take my place. Often, at the end of Although he never relaxed his no-camera rule, I knew the people who enjoyed its unique flavor,” remem- upended and rearranged and Instead he always gave aspiring lensmen and women an assignment, as our plane touched down at New we’d passed a milestone when he started calling me bers Kathryn Livingston, a longtime Town & Country flowers brought in, the subject BATHING BEAUTY would say, “You know, Slim, I Author Laura Hawk, who worked with Aarons for more than 10 years, a more Machiavellian reply—he advised them to buy York’s Kennedy Airport, I thought to myself, “That’s Old Bean, a nickname reserved for friends and family. executive editor who worked with Slim on a number at Villa El Rincón, in Marbella, Spain, 1985.

176 ROLE REVERSAL Cropped pants add instant femininity. Gucci jacket, top, pants and vest and Balenciaga thigh-high boots. Opposite: Hillier Bartley jacket, turtleneck, pants and earrings and Gender Church’s shoes.

Studies

Anything boys can do, girls can do better, as shown by these menswear-inspired styles.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSH OLINS STYLING BY CLARE RICHARDSON

179 WELL PLAID Emphasize the waist with broad-shouldered pieces. Jacquemus jacket and Wales Bonner top and pants. Opposite: Balenciaga top, skirt and necklace. 181 VINTAGE HITS Rethink outerwear in bold prints and suede. Burberry coat and Gucci shoes and socks. Opposite: Wales Bonner coat, Isabel Marant top and stylist’s own necklace. OFF THE CUFF Play the blues in looks that have an insouciant attitude. Marc Jacobs coat, shirt and pants, Isabel Marant top (worn underneath), Manolo Blahnik shoes and Gucci socks. Opposite: Loewe 184 dress and necklace. SOCK HOP Swap skirts for suiting and a leather coat with swagger. Chanel coat, Hillier Bartley turtleneck, Gucci shoes and socks and stylist’s own necklace. Opposite: Max Mara jacket and pants, Alyx vest, Gucci shoes and socks and stylist’s own necklace. Model, Karly Loyce at Women Management; hair, Bob Recine; makeup, Maki Ryoke; manicure, Eri Handa; set design, Kadu Lennox. For details see Sources, page 193. MODERN Provence’s Château La Coste, long home to an organic winery and an esteemed art and architecture park, is now opening a new luxury hotel overlooking the 600-acre estate. MARVEL

BY ALICE CAVANAGH PHOTOGRAPHY BY FREDERIK VERCRUYSSE

’M PROBABLY THE MOST frustrated architect or feature a library, bar and restaurant helmed by French Each private villa has a similar view, along with a artist: I can’t draw a straight line—I leave that chef Gérald Passédat, who also owns the Michelin- floor plan—up to 3,000 square feet—that includes a to the experts,” says 60-year-old Irish prop- starred restaurant Le Petit Nice in Marseille, has a walled-in courtyard. The guest-room décor is mini- erty magnate Patrick (Paddy) McKillen, whose clean, angular design that contrasts with the area’s malist but warm, with four-post beds, breezy white sizable portfolio includes interests in five-star rambling bastides. “I didn’t want to create something canopies, Scandinavian-style shelving and works hotels, such as The Connaught, The Berkeley ‘old world,’ ” McKillen says. “We wanted to be con- by artists from Bernard Frize to Hiroshi Sugimoto. Iand Claridge’s in London, as well as numerous office temporary but rustic.” McKillen acquired each piece specifically for the site: and retail locations across the United Kingdom, the McKillen not only conceptualized the design of “I’ve never bought art for investment reasons, never United States and Ireland. the hotel, alongside his in-house architects and the in my life,” he says. “There’s nothing worse than keep- For his most personal project to date, Château Marseille-based architect Christopher Green, but ing something in a cardboard carton in a basement.” La Coste, a 600-acre estate in the heart of Provence, also curated the art that hangs on its walls. The One of nine children, McKillen grew up in Belfast McKillen called on a monumental list of expert archi- wall behind the check-in desk features sketches by and now divides his time between Los Angeles, tects (many of whom he counts as close friends). Swiss sculptor and painter Alberto Giacometti; a London, Paris and Provence (as a rule he travels light, Frank Gehry, Jean Nouvel, Renzo Piano, Richard Damien Hirst piece, from his series of psychedelic with just a passport and credit card in his pocket). His Rogers and Tadao Ando—the Pritzker Prize–winning spin paintings, hangs opposite Sean Scully’s Robe father was a metalworker whose workshop expanded list goes on—have all contributed to the property. Red Red canvas. On another wall, pages from Louise into a family construction business that eventually First acquired by McKillen in 2002, Château La Bourgeois’s embroidered fabric book Ode à la Bièvre led to Paddy’s career of acquiring and building prop- Coste, which features an organic winery and art are mounted in a gridlike formation above a wooden erties. Art (particularly sculpture and sketches) and and architecture park with works by 26 architects Charlotte Perriand table. The lobby’s centerpiece is a architecture, however, have long interested him. “I and artists, opened to the public in 2011. This sum- banquet-size wooden table by Nouvel with a polished just love being around artists,” he says, pointing out mer, after planning for more than a decade, McKillen stainless-steel sculpture by Tom Shannon on top. The that he’s always eschewed art fairs in favor of dealing will launch Villa La Coste, a luxury hotel on the site. room’s mix of materials—cool stone floors, walnut directly with artists. “If you asked me what would be The elegant stone structure overlooks the property’s wooden doors and the striking spider marble used for Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Vermentino the bar—serves as a sleek backdrop to the expansive CONCRETE DREAMS vineyards and includes 28 villas, some with their view of the Luberon Valley, visible through floor-to- Château La Coste’s Art Centre (2011), designed by own private plunge pools. The new hotel, which will ceiling sliding-glass doors. Pritzker Prize–winning architect Tadao Ando.

188 189 my best Saturday afternoon, it would be to spend it in Ai Weiwei and Tony Berlant, that are partially con- an artist’s studio.” structed or in the works, and every one is intended McKillen discovered Château La Coste with for a particular location. McKillen collaborates on the help of his older sister, Mara, who has lived in the specific site with every artist or architect—each Provence since 1990. During annual holidays in the of whom usually takes time to scope out the property area with his family, McKillen became enamored with in advance. “It’s not simply a collection of names; it’s it—and with the idea of owning a vineyard. When he BY DESIGN about what each person brings to this experience,” Clockwise from left: purchased the historic family-owned estate and win- The Art Centre frames says Hong Kong–based architect André Fu, who has ery, he was determined to produce one of the region’s Alexander Calder’s visited the property several times and has designed finest organic wines. After recruiting oenologist Small Crinkly; sketches the bar and library at Villa La Coste as well as a by Swiss sculptor Matthieu Cosse, Château La Coste, which has a 340- and painter Alberto 12-room spa that will open at the end of the year. acre vineyard, gained organic status in 2009 and has Giacometti in Villa La “We can’t just plonk them about,” McKillen says of since gone one step further by turning to biodynamic Coste’s foyer; the estate’s the placement of the commissioned pieces. “The last vegetable garden, practices. Today, McKillen produces several organic designed by landscape structures on the land were built by the Romans, so I white and red wines, as well as some of the region’s designer Louis Benech; a was very careful to respect every tree, every blade of most popular rosés. guest bedroom in one of grass and every herb.” the new hotel’s 28 villas. In the mid-2000s, when McKillen needed a new Directly across from the Art Centre, the vineyards building for his state-of-the-art winemaking equip- frame Frank Gehry’s Pavillon de Musique, a large

ment, he turned to Nouvel—a renowned French , 2003, © THE wooden and glass structure originally commissioned architect whom he’d met through his friend, Parisian , 2009, 4 METERS LAND ART for the Serpentine Galleries in London but funded by art dealer Patrick Seguin—to design the estate’s chai à DROP Clockwise from above: and intended for Château La Coste. McKillen seeks to vinification, which also includes a cellar for wine stor- Sean Scully’s Wall remind visitors of the vines at every possible moment: of Light Cubed; the age. The two Nouvel-designed cylindrical structures, property’s 340-acre “We don’t want people to forget why they are there: completed in 2008 and connected underground, are CROUCHING SPIDER vineyard, with a mix of The grapes are the real art at La Coste,” he says. located near the estate’s main cluster of buildings— red and white grapes, The parklands on the property are protected, so including Sauvignon known as the Village, which includes the historic Blanc, Chardonnay, there is an arduous approval process, overseen by bastide (where Paddy’s parents now reside) and a wine Syrah and Grenache; the the local mayor’s office, to build there. Currently shop. (An underground chai à barrique by Nouvel, spe- Tadao Ando–designed plans for works by architects including Renzo Piano, Art Centre; a guest cifically for barrel storage, is currently in the works.) bathroom with the line Richard Rogers and the late Brazilian architect After commissioning Nouvel, McKillen began of toiletries that Oscar Niemeyer are being evaluated; however, the inviting other architects and various artists to create McKillen is developing first stone of Ai’s installation that’s in development for Villa La Coste. site-specific works on the property. The first com- has just been laid. “There’s no mad rush; there’s no missioned artists included Sean Scully, who built deadline,” McKillen says. “We never want this proj- a stacked stone sculpture in 2007; Richard Serra, ect to end.” who created three steel sheets in 2008 that sit in Self-guided tours of the estate, which cover around the Provençal hillside; and the British sculptor and three miles and last about two hours, are available environmentalist Andy Goldsworthy, whose dome- seven days a week. The path discreetly leads visitors like, underground Oak Room, built in 2009, is located “we don’t want people to to each of the installations—most of which are free of beneath one of the original Roman dry-stone walls, signposts. “We want people to come across the pieces known locally as restanques. forget why they are almost by accident—that leaves a lasting memory,” McKillen also recruited Japanese architect Tadao there: the grapes are McKillen says. Ando to design a structure that could frame one of his the real art at la coste.” This approach is appealing to many of the art- most important acquisitions at that point—a Louise VIEW FROM THE TOP , 2007, © THE EASTON FOUNDATION, LICENSED BY VAGA, NEW YORK, NY; TOM SHANNON, ists and architects whose work is featured on the —patrick mckillen Bourgeois Crouching Spider, the first in an edition of Clockwise from far left: property. “An encounter is exactly what I want to The Luberon Valley as six and the only one in France. “They were nearly all seen from a guest villa; create—from the material that I choose and for the pre-sold to museums, and she only agreed to sell it to the daily bread delivery visitors as well,” says Korean artist Lee Ufan, who ODE À LA BIÈVRE me because I came up with the idea of putting it on for the Art Centre’s , 2007, GRANITE, 65 X 26 X 13FT, CHÂTEAU LA COSTE, PROVENCE, FRANCE; LOUISE BOURGEOIS, has both a temporary exhibition (ending September restaurant; Frank water,” McKillen says. Ando designed the Art Centre Gehry’s Pavillon de 24), as part of the estate’s revolving art program, and to appear as though it is sitting on a pool of water, in Musique; the property’s permanent work at Château La Coste. House of Air, the middle of which is Bourgeois’s masterpiece. “The original bastide, where Ufan’s permanent piece, is a small, hilltop stone hut, McKillen’s parents live. installation was really Paddy’s thing—we trusted in which his minimalist paintings have been applied

him,” says Jerry Gorovoy, the late Bourgeois’s long- WALL OF LIGHT CUBED directly onto the walls. “For me the surrounding time assistant and friend. “He doesn’t miss a beat. He space has as much importance as the object,” says is quite aware of what’s going on and sensitive to all Ufan. “I wanted people to feel the atmosphere as the details.” much as my artwork.” An Alexander Calder piece, which Alexander S.C. Although Château La Coste is often associated Rower, the artist’s grandson, helped carefully repair, with its popular rosé, international visitors are typi- was placed with Ando’s guidance in the water on the cally introduced to its art and architectural park by opposite side of the Art Centre. The building, which word of mouth, as McKillen doesn’t advertise or work functions as a welcome center, also has a restaurant FIELD OF DREAMS with a publicist. “Paddy’s an extraordinarily self- that serves local, seasonal food—much of it from the Clockwise from above: effacing person,” says Sean Scully, who has several Louise Bourgeois’s on-site vegetable garden—and a gift shop that offers , 1976, 360CM X 395CM, © 2016 CALDER FOUNDATION, NEW YORK/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK; ART © ALBERTO GIACOMETTI ESTATE/LICENSED BY ANDVAGA ARS, NEW YORK, NY Crouching Spider, the works of art on the estate. “He is very deferential to art, architecture and design books and a small selec- only one in France; the artists—everything is in their favor. I think one tion of limited-edition prints. Tom Shannon’s Drop; day, in the future, his place is going to be like a Medici Bourgeois’s Ode à la In addition to the 26 current works dotted about Bièvre, above a Charlotte house—it’s going to be equal to what you see when SMALL CRINKLY DIAMETER, STAINLESS STEEL EASTON FOUNDATION, LICENSED BY VAGA, NEW YORK, NY; LOUISE BOURGEOIS, the estate, there are 15 or so pieces, by artists like GEHRY PARTNERS, MUSIC PAVILION, 2008; SEAN SCULLY, Perriand wooden table. you go to Italy now.” •

190 sources

mortified by the prospect of performing in public with her). To be true to her, they had to be untrue— COVER Sanderson boots, $735, Miami, Falke hosiery, $40, pearl necklace, $3,360, page 154 sweater (around waist), price telling white lies and perpetuating deceptions to Dries Van Noten robe, $1,348, matchesfashion .com, Stuart Bloomingdale’s mikimotoamerica .com, Loewe Givenchy fur jacket, $1,896, upon request, alexanderwang STREEP SAVVY DEPARTMENTS OF Dries Van Noten, Paris, Littledoe Weitzman boots, $565, Stuart loafers, $750, Barneys New York Givenchy New York, The Elder .com, Balenciaga pants, $755, Continued from page 150 preserve Jenkins’s self-regard. The same went for hat, $355, littledoeislove .com, Weitzman Madison Avenue, page 114 Statesman sweater, $1,265, Saks Fifth Avenue, New York, the music. “To get it just perfectly wrong was very COMMERCE Fred Leighton earrings, price Mulberry boots, $980, mulberry Balenciaga coat, $2,550, page 141 The Elder Statesman Huntley Oliver Peoples The Row Continued from page 171 upon request, Fred Leighton .com, Alexander Wang boots, Balenciaga Mercer Street, New Dior bomber jacket, price Drive, Los Angeles, Lemaire sunglasses, $460, Oliver Peoples challenging. You have to get to right first, and then Madison Avenue $750, Alexander Wang New York, York, sweater, $695, and skirt, upon request, by special order pants, $630, Bergdorf Goodman, boutiques nominations, receives such praise with grace, when you have to hit it with a hammer,” says Helberg, who Coach boots, $375, select Coach $755, both Barneys New York, 1(800)929-DIOR, Oscar de la Delfina Delettrez earrings, TABLE OF CONTENTS stores, Prada boots, price upon and earrings, $415, Balenciaga Renta turtleneck, $1,390, Oscar $2,192, matchesfashion .com, page 163 she says she is merely happy to be acting she is not is a trained jazz pianist. Balenciaga in the U.S. Decisions about which page 53 request, select Prada boutiques Mercer Street, New York de la Renta boutiques, Marni Charlotte Chesnais bracelet, A.P.C. sweater, $310, A.P.C. simply being modest. “On a certain level you don’t “My biggest anxiety was that I couldn’t sing as Kering products to distribute where—for instance, Louis Vuitton trench coat, price pants, $1,380, La Garçonne, $1,695, Dover Street Market Mercer Street, New York, Ralph upon request, dress, price upon THE WSJ. FIVE page 115 New York, Balenciaga boots, Lauren Collection pants, $1,990, have any choice—you’re unhappy if you’re not doing high as she did,” Streep says. “She hit an F above Alexander McQueen womenswear at Bergdorf but request, and boots, $1,900, select page 103 Ralph Lauren Collection coat $855, similar styles available at page 155 select Ralph Lauren stores, it, so you’re compelled in a certain way. And if you’re high C. Do you know how high that is? It’s just Balenciaga menswear at Barneys—are made after Louis Vuitton stores Valentino Garavani combat boots, (worn over), $2,790, select Ralph Balenciaga Mercer Steet, New York Above: Chanel sweater, price Balenciaga boots, $855, Dover $1,795, Valentino boutiques, Céline Lauren stores, Valentino coat upon request, select Chanel lucky you can keep working,” she says. “But every- insane.” Authenticity was paramount for Streep, careful negotiations. Other companies have already Street Market, New York, Dior page 56 dress, $4,350, and leggings, $590, (worn underneath), $4,490, page 142 boutiques, vintage Levi’s jeans, bag, $3,000, Dior boutiques body has troughs and dismal times—every single who tried to match Jenkins note for gloriously awful aligned with certain stores: Bergdorf will sell Chanel Ralph Lauren Collection Céline Madison Avenue, Theory Valentino Fifth Avenue, Calvin Calvin Klein Collection coat, $178, What Goes Around Comes nationwide, Delfina Delettrez person. I remember as I was hovering around 40, I note. “Florence sang in a particular way—I mean, fine jewelry in its renovated salon, while Chanel cardigan, $1,150, shirt, $850, sweater, $235, Theory boutiques Klein Collection dress, price price upon request, Calvin Around boutiques nationwide, ring, price upon request, Delfina and pants, $1,090, select Ralph upon request, Calvin Klein Klein Madison Avenue, Hermès Charlotte Chesnais earrings, Delettrez London boutique thought each movie would be my last, really. And the way she went wrong was particular to her. It apparel will go to Neiman Marcus at Hudson Yards, Lauren stores, Hèrmes scarf, page 104 Madison Avenue, Loewe earrings turtleneck, $1,750, Hermès $615, and bracelet, $1,695, Dover all the evidence of other 40-year-old women at didn’t really have rhyme or reason to it.” according to people familiar with the stores’ plans. $405, Hèrmes stores nationwide, Balenciaga puffy scarf, $565, (left and right), $375 each, similar stores nationwide, Michael Street Market, Delfina Delettrez GENDER STUDIES JJ Hat Center hat, $150, JJ Hat Balenciaga New York, Phoebe styles available at loewe .com, Kors Collection pants, $1,250, ring, price upon request, Delfina page 178 that time—this is 27 years ago—would lead you to The degree of verisimilitude Streep achieved is Enlisting brands is a ticklish subject, particularly Center Fifth Avenue, New York English shirt, $525, La Loewe shoes, $890, The Webster select Michael Kors stores, Delettrez London boutique. Hillier Bartley jacket, price upon believe it was over.” impressive, even to a Jenkins scholar like Collup. years before a store opening, and neither Neiman Garçonne, and shorts, $800, Miami, Falke hosiery, $40, Mikimoto pearl necklace, Below: Vetements jacket, $930, request, turtleneck, $681, pants, page 60 Dover Street Market Bloomingdale’s vetementswebsite .com, Ralph Those anxieties help explain why Streep is “It’s a carbon copy,” the documentarian says. “The Marcus nor Nordstrom would discuss brand strate- $3,360, mikimotoamerica .com, $1,064, and earrings, $276 each, Dries Van Noten coat, $1,845, Balenciaga boots, $855, similar Lauren Collection sweater, fortyfiveten .com pleased to be as prolific as at any time in her nearly tonal quality of her singing, the bad diction, the gies. Related Cos., the development company behind driesvannoten .com, Salvatore page 105 page 116 styles available at Balenciaga $1,490, and shirt, $1,090, select Ferragamo wool dress, $2,950, Loewe wire choker, $850, Loewe coat, $1,990, Serenella Ralph Lauren stores, Charlotte 40-year film career. But they also remind us that her wavering pitch, the attempt to sing high notes and Hudson Yards, sweetened Neiman’s deal as an anchor Mercer Steet, New York page 179 Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques fourtyfiveten.com, Hermès Boston, top, price upon request, Chesnais earrings, $615, Dover Gucci jacket, $2,800, shirt, later success was not preordained. Streep points to just not really making it—it’s uncanny.” tenant with incentives including a break on the first nationwide, Sabine Getty rings, jacket, $5,450, Hermès Loewe, Design District, Miami, page 143 Street Market $1,390, vest, $1,290, and pants, and skirt, $2,690, Barneys New a number of other impressive actresses who are her As Streep took to the task of simulating the three years of its lease, Related’s chief executive, $2,150 each, Five Story New stores nationwide, Brunello Proenza Schouler fur coat, $1,400, select Gucci stores York, Lia Di Gregorio ring, $585, Cucinelli pants, $1,145, York, Stella McCartney earrings, $10,900, and boots, $1,860, page 156 nationwide, Balenciaga thigh- peers, but many of them followed her lead after she world’s worst singer, the rigors of rehearsal and Kenneth Himmel, told WWD, saying he expects that Dover Street Market; Huntsman Brunello Cucinelli Greene $420, Stella McCartney Greene Proenza Schouler Greene Street, Missoni sweater, $1,170, missoni high boots, $2,145, Balenciaga shattered the glass ceiling for over-40 actresses. recording took their toll. “A real person, a real diva, Neiman Marcus will see revenues of $200 million wool jacket, $2,141, Huntsman Street, New York, Valentino Street, New York, Loewe shoes, New York, Acne bodysuit, price .com, Balenciaga jeans, $635, Mercer Street, New York 57th Street, New York, Berluti Garavani combat boots, $1,795, $890, The Webster Miami, Falke upon request, acnestudios .com Balenciaga Mercer Street, hosiery, $40, Bloomingdale’s New York Since that milestone, Streep has been nominated for doesn’t sing the Queen of the Night more than twice a year initially. (A Neiman spokeswoman said the shirt, $410, and scarf, $670, Valentino boutiques page 180 an Oscar 11 times—far more than any actor at that a week, ever,” she says. “And I was going to sing it company cannot comment on “rumors.”) The mall Berluti Madison Avenue, STREEP SAVVY Jacquemus jacket, $850, page 157 Cordings hat, $76, cordings. c o . u k page 106 WELL OPENER pages 144–145 Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Norfolk age or during that time (the most any other actor three or four times a day. That was very hard. I actu- at Hudson Yards, meanwhile, hasn’t yet convinced Michael Kors sweater (tied Louis Vuitton earrings, $730, page 133 The Row coat, $1,990, Bergdorf Street, New York, Wales Bonner around shoulders), $1,395, has received is 12). ally lost my voice.” many luxury brands to sign leases. WHAT’S NEWS coat, price upon request, and top, Chloé cape, $4,395, Chloé Goodman, Céline boots, top, $1,550, and pants, $750, price upon request, select Louis and shirt, $595, similar styles page 78 boutiques, Ralph Lauren $1,450, Céline Madison Avenue, walesbonner.net One of the more meaningful accolades Streep We have gotten accustomed to seeing Streep’s According to the model now emerging in New York, Vuitton stores available at Michael Kors stores, Glemaud crewneck, $495, and Collection turtleneck, $850, Croisillon daybed in oak and select Ralph Lauren stores, Nehera leather pants, $2,150, ever received is a letter from her idol, Bette Davis, love of song play out on-screen. There is her musical the future of department stores is actually an anti- henley, $445, glemaud.com fabric by Jean Royère, $32,000, page 181 page 107 Proenza Schouler boots, $1,860, Opening Ceremony, New York, Galerie Patrick Seguin Paris Balenciaga top, $855, and shortly before she died in 1989. In it, the legendary movie oeuvre—Mamma Mia, Into the Woods, Ricki department store. Most are doing away with the units Prada bag, price upon request, Proenza Schouler Greene Street, Dries Van Noten boots, $913, page 80 necklace, $545, Balenciaga select Prada boutiques, Proenza New York Barneys New York actress praised her younger counterpart. Actors and the Flash—and, all told, Streep sings in 10 films. that once segregated designers and price points in Pomellato 18k rose-gold pendant page 146 Mercer Street, New York, Schouler dress, $3,480, Proenza necklaces, $2,000 each, 18k Azzedine Alaïa coat, $7,565, Balenciaga skirt, $1,015, The who work with Streep today likewise regard her But opera is a different discipline altogether. favor of open-floor plans that give customers a seam- Schouler Greene Street, New York CLASSIC ROCK page 158 rose-gold rings, $2,100 each, similar styles available at Webster, Houston with a certain degree of awe. “Her process does Streep knows this better than most—and not less experience and more closely match the way they page 135 Above: Giorgio Armani sweater, pomellato .com Barneys New York TRENCH DRESSING Marc Jacobs patchwork fur $1,095, Giorgio Armani not exclude,” says Helberg. “It’s like she sees in just from playing Jenkins. At 12, she began study- live. “We have de-departmentalized the department page 182 page 82 page 110 jacket, $15,000, Marc Jacobs boutiques nationwide, Lia Di page 148 Burberry coat, $3,695, Burberry 360 degrees, and so she’s including everybody and ing voice with Estelle Liebling, who trained Beverly store,” says Metrick of Saks, which will mingle wom- Boss shirt, $195, Hugo Boss Trademark coat (worn over), stores nationwide, Proenza Gregorio earrings, $570, Dover On Streep: Max Mara coat, .com, Gucci socks, $115, and stores, Céline pebble earrings, $698, trade-mark .com, Theory Schouler sweater, $1,490, Street Market. Below: Marc every single thing that is happening in the moment. Sills when she was still a rising star, as well as many enswear across price points together on one floor, the $2,850, Max Mara Madison loafers, $640, select Gucci stores $710, Céline Madison Avenue, coat (worn underneath), $655, Proenza Schouler Greene Street, Jacobs coat, $8,900, Marc Avenue, Charvet blouse, $392, nationwide Once she gets onto the set, it’s really about being other sopranos with the Metropolitan Opera. Streep better to encourage browsing. Men’s shoes—the hero 3.1 Phillip Lim shirt, $325, Theory boutiques, Jil Sander New York, Joseph leather pants, Jacobs stores, Giorgio Armani similar styles available at 3.1 Phillip Lim Great Jones top (worn over), $730, top (worn $1,345, joseph-fashion .com, turtleneck and pants, price present, and I just kind of watched her. Sometimes I traveled to New York each Saturday from her home of men’s fashion these days—will be front and center, Bergdorf Goodman, Céline wool page 183 Street, New York, RE/DONE underneath), $760, and skirt, Loewe loafers, $750, Barneys upon request, Giorgio Armani pants, $910, Céline Madison Wales Bonner jacket, $3,815, would just end up, you know, f—ing up because I was in northern New Jersey and labored for four years not off in a corner or upstairs. At Nordstrom the aim Levi’s, $270, shopredone .com, $990, Jil Sander Madison New York boutiques nationwide, Lia Di Avenue, Church’s shoes, $820, walesbonner.net, Isabel Marant Marni earrings, $800, Marni Avenue, Loewe earrings (left and Gregorio earrings, $570, Dover watching her. in Liebling’s studio, close to Carnegie Hall, ini- is to make the store easy to navigate, with open views Church’s Walton Street, boutiques, Brooks Brothers shirt, right), $375 each, similar styles page 136 Street Market top, $880, select Isabel Marant Chicago, Cartier bangle, $6,800, “She’s an enigma to most people, obviously,” tially with the hope of joining a company, possibly so no merchandise is hidden behind corners, and $98, Brooks Brothers stores available at loewe .com Miu Miu sweater, $895, select stores Cartier boutiques nationwide, the Big Bang Theory star continues. “She’s also even the Met. Having seen Sills perform, however, no separated silos for lingerie, shoes or other items nationwide, Simone Rocha Miu Miu boutiques, Stella page 159 Fred Leighton earrings, price page 184 so highly revered that it was impossible for me to Streep eventually realized that, despite having a that traditionally occupy separate departments. earrings, $505, Jeffrey New York, page 111 McCartney pants, $1,095, Fendi fur jacket, $38,000, jeans, Brunello Cucinelli shirt, $975, Céline lambskin coat, $6,200, mytheresa .com, Hermès upon request, Fred Leighton, $650, fendi .com, Balenciaga Loewe dress, $6,350, similar even imagine being in a room with her. As soon as lovely voice, she wasn’t good enough to be a profes- “We want to be the most convenient place to shop in Brunello Cucinelli Greene Street, Céline Madison Avenue, and bracelet, $5,100, Hermès 212-288-1872, Elephanteau bag, $12,020, Balenciaga Mercer styles available at Bergdorf armchair in oak and velvet by Goodman, Loewe necklace, I was, she kind of called that out. It’s like she comes sional diva. And though she sang plenty, Streep left Manhattan,” says Jamie Nordstrom. Even the term New York, Lanvin earrings, bag used as belt, $1,100, Neiman stores nationwide Street, New York, Sabine Getty $1,095, Lanvin Madison Avenue, Marcus, Hèrmes top, $3,450, Jean Royère, $252,000, Galerie rings, $2,150 each, Five Story $850, fortyfiveten .com into the room and takes her crown off and puts it on her dreams of singing opera behind. Until Florence department store has itself become anathema. Both Kiton shirt, $1,190, kitonus .com, and skirt, $4,850, Hermès stores page 137 Patrick Seguin Paris New York you—which she actually did with my daughter.” Foster Jenkins. Vitale and Barneys’s chief executive, Mark Lee, say Saint Laurent earrings, $895, nationwide, Stella McCartney Prada coat, $5,840, prada .com, page 185 Saint Laurent 57th Street, New earrings, $420, Stella McCartney Miu Miu shirt, $1,050, and page 149 page 160 Marc Jacobs coat, $3,600, In London, while recording the notoriously “Yeah, there were moments when you’d say, ‘Sing they prefer specialty store. York, Akris shirt, $795, Akris Greene Street, New York, Loewe shorts, $185, Miu Miu boutiques, On Frears: Lanvin coat, $3,540, Above: A.P.C. sweater, $310, shirt, $1,100, and pants, $650, challenging Queen of the Night aria from The worse,’ ” Streep says to Frears. Ultimately, Saks’s Metrick says, success will boutiques and akris.ch, Gucci shoes, $890, The Webster Mikimoto pearl necklace, $3,360, Lanvin Madison Avenue, Berluti A.P.C. Mercer Street, New York, Marc Jacobs stores, Isabel earrings, price upon request, Miami, Falke hosiery, $40, mikimotoamerica .com shirt, $410, Berluti Madison Delfina Delettrez earrings, Marant top (worn underneath), Magic Flute, Helberg brought his 3-year-old to the “You were quite close,” Frears responds, refer- require making the brick-and-mortar experience select Gucci stores nationwide Bloomingdale’s Avenue, Church’s shoes, $820, $2,617, matchesfashion .com, $680, select Isabel Marant studio. “Addie had seen some of these clips from ring to Jenkins’s idiosyncratic intonation. as compelling for 21st-century shoppers as it was a page 138 Church’s Walton Street, Chicago Charlotte Chesnais ring, $885, stores, Gucci socks, $115, page 84 page 112 Gucci coat, $34,000, select Gucci Dover Street Market. Below: select Gucci stores nationwide, Mamma Mia, so she’s very excited and calling for As Streep pauses in appreciation, I’m reminded hundred years ago, while simultaneously serving Fendi jacket, $3,450, fendi .com, Zadig & Voltaire coat, $568, stores nationwide, Ralph Lauren page 151 Dolce & Gabbana shirt, price Manolo Blahnik shoes, $745, Mewylstreet, Mewylstreet,” Helberg recalls. “Meryl of a moment late in the film. Stripped of her wildly customers online and off. Stella McCartney shorts, $660, zadig-et-voltaire .com, Proenza Collection pants, $1,090, select The Row coat, $1,990, Bergdorf upon request, select Dolce & SaksFifthAvenue .com Goodman, Fred Leighton came in wearing a tiara Florence had worn when outlandish attire, Jenkins delivers a line that “We look at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City as Stella McCartney Greene Street, Schouler dress and slip, $2,450, Ralph Lauren stores Gabbana stores New York, Prada jacket, $2,320, Proenza Schouler Greene bracelet, price upon request, page 186 she had performed, and she sat down on the floor so resounds like a credo: “They may say I can’t sing, an ecosystem,” he says. “Why would they even leave select Prada boutiques, Chanel Street, Loewe earrings (left and page 139 Fred Leighton, 212-288-1872 page 161 Max Mara jacket, $1,395, and she could be eye to eye with my daughter. She took but they can never say I didn’t sing.” This may be home if they can shop on Saks.com?” bag, $3,300, select Chanel right), $375 each, similar styles Balenciaga wool jacket, $2,185, Prada fur jacket, $7,830, pants, $645, Max Mara Madison • boutiques, Gianvito Rossi boots, available at loewe .com pants, $1,075, and boots, $855, ROMANIAN HOLIDAY select Prada boutiques, Rag Avenue, Alyx vest, $845, off her tiara, put it onto Addie and said, ‘Hello. I’m true for Streep, who like Jenkins is striving with all $1,345, gianvitorossi .com. Rouge similar styles available at page 152 & Bone sweater, $595, Rag & stormfashion.dk, Gucci socks, Meryl Streep.’ ” her heart, though she holds herself to a higher stan- Dior lipstick, $37, Diorshow Pro page 113 Balenciaga Mercer Steet, New Versace sweater, $2,295, select Bone stores, Acne jeans, $290, $115, and loafers, $640, select in The nexT wsj. magazine Liner, $32, dior.com, Chanel Carolina Herrera coat, $1,025, York, Hermès turtleneck, $1,750, Versace boutiques. acnestudios .com, Delfina Gucci stores nationwide dard: her own. lip definer, $31, Chanel lip Carolina Herrera Madison and bracelet, $5,100, Hermès Delettrez ring, price upon FIDELITY IS A THEME woven through Florence Foster “At the end, I sort of thought, Well, that was color, $37, chanel.com, Nars lip Avenue, Loewe dress, $890, stores nationwide page 153 request, Delfina Delettrez page 187 liner, $24, Nars Lip Glide, $28, A’maree’s and Ikram, Hermès Isabel Marant sweater, $1,200, London boutique Chanel coat, $19,400, select Jenkins. Outwardly, there’s the faithfulness and good,” Streep says, nodding. “I thought I’d done MEN’S STYLE narscosmetics.com cardigan, $5,700, Hermès page 140 select Isabel Marant stores, Chanel boutiques, Hillier the devotion of Bayfield (who also keeps a mistress well, sounded good.” She pauses and adds with stores nationwide, Ana Khouri Céline dress and pants, Dries Van Noten shirt, $478, and page 162 Bartley turtleneck, $681, on sale sepTember 10, 2016 page 86 x Narciso Rodriguez earrings, prices upon request, similar pants, $635, Bergdorf Goodman, Fendi shearling coat, price upon fortyfiveten .com, Gucci socks, at a pied-à-terre paid for by Jenkins) and the hard- a laugh: “I also thought I looked good. Someone Tabitha Simmons boots, $4,000, Barneys New York, styles available at Céline Vetements boots, $2,230, request, and turtleneck, $1,100, $115, and loafers, $640, select won loyalty of Helberg’s McMoon (who at first is should have told me!” • $795, Moda Operandi, Rupert Loewe shoes, $890, The Webster Madison Avenue, Mikimoto vetementswebsite .com fendi .com, Alexander Wang Gucci stores nationwide

192 wsj. magazine Advertisement Advertisement

PEOPLE, PLACES & THINGS WORTH NOTING FROM OUR ADVERTISERS

COACH FALL 2016 DISCOVER SERPENTI GRAFF’S DISCO BUTTERFLY GO AMERICAN A nostalgic exploration of Americana in a new Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti collection captures the The latest evolution of Graff’s iconic Butterfly David Webb salutes our country with stars collection that captures the eclectic spirit of power of the eyes with striking new pieces watch, the Disco Butterfly incorporates a and stripes. Cast your vote wearing David New York City. combining unique shapes and brilliant gems. kaleidoscope of butterflies that dance as the Webb jewels. Boldly created, boldly worn. Be mesmerized by the new hypnotic collection. wearer moves their wrist.

GRAFFDIAMONDS.COM DAVIDWEBB.COM COACH.COM BULGARI.COM/SERPENTI

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION SHARE WITH @WSJNOTED HERNO ULTRALIGHT A-SHAPE MILLENARY HAND-WOUND NOLET’S SILVER GIN MAX MARA JBAG SHOPPER The Mia Shoulder Bag, handcrafted in Italy from How do you enjoy The Wall Street Journal? The iconic A-shape fit of Herno is in ultralight A unique, feminine and contemporary design Inspired by 325 years of Nolet Family distilling Discover your must-have Fall accessory. luxe French calf leather and ostrich feathers. Tag #wsjoftheday when you post to Instagram nylon padded with the finest goose feathers. coupled with the perfect balance between haute experience, NOLET’S Silver is a modern-style Created with the finest Italian craftsmanship, for a chance to be featured on @wsjnoted! Ring collar and gold buttons with logo horology and luxurious jewelry. gin featuring botanicals of Turkish Rose, Peach the large shoulder strap adds a dynamic touch characterize the jacket. & Raspberry. @NOLETSGins to the sculptural shape of this versatile bag.

MICHAELKORS.COM INSTAGRAM.COM/WSJNOTED HERNO.IT AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM NOLETSGIN.COM MAXMARA.COM

@WSJnoted | wsjnoted.com © 2016 DOW JONES & COMPANY, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 6AO1570 New York Boston Dallas Bal Harbour Shops Palm Beach Atlanta Houston

877 700 1922

Explore the Akris Boutique at www.akris.ch

still life PATTI SMITH The legendary musician and author shares a few of her favorite things.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVEN SEBRING

“THAT’S A POLAROID Land 250. I lost a similar cam - anniversary with her late father. I change what I keep gift from a friend of mine who lives in Spain. Pencils era in Rockaway Beach right before Hurricane Sandy. in it. Right now there’s Robert’s pencil sharpener, my are the most humble tools of the writer. I write I’ve taken photographs on and off since the ’60s, but husband’s guitar capo and little river stones, among everything first in longhand. The book is a first edi- I started taking them more in the mid-1990s, after other things. My reading glasses are extremely tion of Finnegans Wake, signed by James Joyce in my husband died. On the far left is a 1927 Martin precious to me—books are central to my life, and I green ink. The book is almost unreadable—but as an parlor guitar. It was given to me by the poet Oliver couldn’t read them without my glasses! That is a rare object it’s beautiful. The chain in the middle is the Ray, who played in our band for several years. Robert carte-de-visite of Charles Baudelaire, photographed ID bracelet I gave to my late brother, Todd, on his Mapplethorpe made the tambourine for my 21st by Étienne Carjat, which I bought in Paris. I like to birthday in 1978. Todd was my tour manager when birthday in 1967. He stretched the goatskin, tied the take part of my fee from readings or lectures—or all I was on the road. We had a hit song with ‘Because ribbons and tattooed the Capricorn symbol. The rib- of it—and buy something. I bought the porcelain cof- the Night,’ and I bought it for him to symbolize bons have faded, but it’s still very strong. It’s resting fee cup at the Charles Dickens house in London for everything we had to celebrate. All of these things, on a hand-painted wooden box that my daughter my father’s birthday. He was English, so he loved it. they’re memories. They all speak of someone.” gave me on what would have been my 30th wedding It was his coffee cup until he died. The pencils are a —As told to Thomas Gebremedhin

196 wsj. magazine PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRUCE WEBER

866.VUITTON louisvuitton.com