PARIS PREVIEW/10-17 FACTORS WARY ON KMART/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ DailyMONDAY Newspaper • September 30, 2002 Vol. 184, No. 65 $1.75 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Strip Tease MILAN — The spring collection Tom Ford showed for Gucci on Saturday was short, hot and sexy. It was also a major departure from his dark vision for fall — and not just because it featured pink, soft blue and colorful Asian prints. There was another factor: the special, labor- intensive methods and techniques used to create it. Here, one racy little number that’s a literal embodiment of the term “gold-digger”: a microminidress in strips of 18-karat pink gold. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 7.

Is Target Cooling? Slow Growth Feared At Hot Discounter

By Evan Clark NEW YORK — Target Corp. may have trouble retaining its status as a retailing phenomenon while it tries to keep up with its own ultrahip image, ultratough competition and ultrahigh expectations. While Wall Street generally remains bullish on the Minneapolis- based retailer, analysts acknowledge the firm, with its own presence expanding and bankrupt Kmart waning, is increasingly going toe-to- toe with Wal-Mart — the world’s largest company and a competitor See Hot, Page21 PHOTO BY PHOTO DAVIDE BY MAESTRI 2 Kmart Vendors Face Double RL Chooses WWDMONDAY West Hollywood Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Stiffer Credit Terms GENERAL For Newest Store Gucci, Fendi, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana were among the top collections as the Milan shows rolled along. By Vicki M. Young calls seeking comment. LOS ANGELES — Double RL is 4 Although his firm isn’t among heading west. Target Corp. might have trouble keeping up with its own ultrahip image, NEW YORK — Credit is tightening the three changing its terms of Executives at Polo Ralph 1 ultratough competition and ultrahigh expectations. up for vendors of Kmart Corp. doing business with Kmart, Lauren confirmed that the com- Economic concerns both re- Jerry Sandak, executive vice pany is preparing to open a Credit is tightening up for vendors of Kmart Corp., as certain economic lated and unrelated to the bank- president of Rosenthal & Double RL store at 7960 Third 2 concerns have led some factors to limit approvals on receivables. rupt discounter’s woes have led Rosenthal, explained that the Street in West Hollywood, Calif., INNERWEAR: Everything is new when it comes to lingerie at the Saks WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, some factors to limit approvals sharing of lines is one function the division’s third location after 19 flagship: a new location; a fresh, contemporary look, and a new dmm. on their customers’ receivables. of maintaining an overall line of stores in NoLIta in New York Others are forcing suppliers to credit for a particular client. and Place de Victoire in Paris. EYE: Former Clash guitarist Paul Simonon goes back to nature...the share in the risks of shipping The move also helps accommo- The 3,000-square-foot store, 24 insider’s guide to Hollywood ingenues...a slew of California parties. goods to the retailer. date a greater amount of activity at the corner of Third Street and Paris Designer Preview appears on pages 10-17 The picture could get more among clients that sell to the Edinburgh Avenue, is scheduled dire as vendors now have to same customer, he pointed out. to open Saturday. The storefront guess about the retailer’s future Paul Shuldiner, national busi- is currently boarded up with no Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 in determining whether to put ness development director at exterior signs or any indication To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual's name. SUBSCRIPTION RATES work orders through the pipeline Transcap, which provides pur- of what is coming into the space. U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. All others U.S., before they’ve gotten the nod chase order and trade financing Initially, the store will offer daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. from factors on financing. in the textile and apparel indus- men’s Double RL and a selec- Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (856) 786-2140; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. Some factors were willing to tries, observed: “The decision tion of Double RL jeans for Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 10531, Riverton, N.J. 08076-0531. be interviewed for this story on often involves a combination of women, plus men’s and women’s WWD® (ISSN#0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays with additional issues every first Friday of every month and one Saturday edition in April and November by Fairchild Publications Inc., the condition of anonymity, while the economic outlook, the retail- vintage clothing. Next year, a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. others, such as Howard Moore at er specifically, and the exposure women’s Double RL will be WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2002 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. GMAC Commercial Credit, de- to that retailer. Firms have to de- added to the mix when the line No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, clined comment altogether. termine their willingness to bows in the spring. including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 All factors are still checking have a certain amount of expo- Double RL is a vintage-in- Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Kmart and approving orders. sure, whether that level has spired division of Polo Ralph Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 However, many factoring firms reached its peak and the firm’s Lauren that, among other things, Printed in the U.S.A. are either charging premiums to threshold for pain.” specializes in high-end jeans All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of service client accounts that sell Shuldiner said that, in the with denim woven on special WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. to the retailer or requiring dif- Kmart case, many firms are be- looms in Japan. For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com ferent terms, such as shipping coming cautious in “taking on The quaint neighborhood within 30 days instead of the their paper.” stretch of Third Street is grow- customary 60. One midsize firm The situation, while unique ing into a hip shopping destina- based here is doing both. to Kmart, is not necessarily a re- tion. Lulu Guinness opened an Sources said that last week, at sult of any direct action by the accessories boutique there PMA ‘Cooling Off’ Time least three firms — reportedly in- retailer. Some credit analysts about two weeks ago. Shoe and cluding GMAC — began requir- said the current state of the handbag maker Sigerson ing that clients share in the ac- economy, as well as growing Morrison will open its boutique Adds Rancor to Dispute count risks. Instead of assuming concerns over fourth-quarter in January. Aero & Co., a high- 100 percent of the risk, the three holiday sales, has many finan- end specialty store featuring lo- LOS ANGELES — The industry Marine Safety Code.” firms are said to be approving cial institutions evaluating their cally based designers, relocated reacted angrily to news late According to sources famil- between 60 and 70 percent of the overall portfolio risks and po- to Third Street earlier this year Friday that the Pacific iar with past contract negotia- receivables, with their clients as- tential liabilities. from a spot in the trendy Los Maritime Association was shut- tions, the union has used safety suming the balance. Walter Kaye, president of Feliz area. ting down all West Coast ports reminders — which call for 10 Kmart officials didn’t return Continued on page 20 — Kristin Young until 8 a.m. Sunday morning, mile per hour speed limits, following a day of widespread among other rules — as pre- union work slowdowns. texts for work to slow to a crawl. Ports were reopened Sunday After enduring what it calls amid reports that at some sites “strikes with pay” during pre- Bangladesh OK’s the work of loading and un- vious labor negotiations, the CK Sued Over ‘Truth’ loading the large cargo ships PMA conducted productivity was slow in restarting. studies in order to quantify a U.S. Embargo Deal “A plague on both their slowdown. Representatives In Trademark Dispute houses,” was the grim word have repeatedly said the asso- from Robert Krieger, presi- ciation would lock out work- Releasing Trousers dent of freight forwarder ers in case of a slowdown. NEW YORK — Revelations Per- and mass merchandising stores. Norman Krieger. He called The ILWU denies it has ever fume & Cosmetics Inc. last week The suit charged that CK “has By Kristi Ellis the 36-hour port shutdown “a purposely slowed down work. filed a lawsuit against Calvin sold and caused its Truth Calvin nightmare” and said the ac- According to PMA data, a Klein Trademark Trust and Klein products to be sold in food, WASHINGTON — Bangladesh has tion “could cause disruptions crane driver at the Oakland Calvin Klein Cosmetics Co. alleg- drug and mass merchandising accepted the U.S. offer to allow for weeks.” terminal moved three contain- ing breach of contract claims stores such as Wal-Mart, Kohl’s, the entry of up to 175,230 dozen Although the PMA billed ers per hour, as compared to over the “Truth” trademark. Albertson’s, Drug Emporium, pairs of cotton trousers that were the lockout as a “cooling off ” the three-year average of 30 A spokeswoman for CK Cos- H.E. Butt and Ulta. As a result of embargoed at the end of July, measure, industry observers containers per hour. At the metics did not return calls for Calvin Klein invading the territo- with a penalty of three times the were skeptical that clearer Maersk shipping terminal, op- comment by press time on Friday. ry reserved to Revelations, H.E. amount next year if the entire heads would prevail today. erations ran at 50 percent of The lawsuit, filed in a New Butt, Kohl’s and Ulta have re- amount enters before yearend, “This will probably just be typical productivity, according York State Court in Manhattan, fused to purchase Revelations’ officials confirmed Friday. the beginning of a huge mess,” to the PMA. said that Revelations sold the Truth Revelations products. Mohammed G. Hussain, com- said Bill Hogan, import man- ILWU president Joseph Truth trademark to CK in August Sales of the Truth Revelations mercial counselor at the Bangla- ager of freight forwarder Spinosa called allegations of a 2000. As part of the purchase products have plummeted in deshi Embassy here, said officials Phoenix International. “This slowdown “slanderous.” agreement, the lawsuit said, CK Wal-Mart, Albertson’s and Drug estimate they will need to borrow isn’t going to help cool things “During the biggest speedup granted Revelations a license to Emporium stores,” which are an extra 105,000 to 140,000 dozen off, just make them worse.” in ILWU history that coincides use the Truth mark in developing carrying both lines. pairs, or 3 to 4 percent against the The apparel industry is with a record number of on- a fragrance and cosmetics line Revelations said in the law- base limit of 3.5 million dozen nearing the end of its big push the-job deaths [PMA] is literally under the trademark Truth suit that it first used the trade- pairs. The amount would reach 5 to receive holiday goods. The adding insult to injury and Revelations for sale in food, drug mark Truth around June 15, percent if all the embargoed West Coast ports, which to- making any progress toward a 2000. CK’s Truth was launched goods are let into the country. gether handle about $1 billion contract more difficult,” in August 2000. Bangladesh overshipped its worth of goods daily, have ex- Spinosa said in a statement. The term of Revelations’ li- 3.8 million dozen quota limit for perienced record levels of ac- There have been five fatal cense was three years, with au- the year by about 5 percent and tivity in recent weeks. accidents in West Coast ports tomatic renewal for successive the cotton pants have been sit- But on Friday, despite an in the past six months, accord- three-year periods, subject to ting in warehouses since July 26 existing backlog, workers daw- ing to the ILWU. certain exceptions. In 2001, at a considerable cost to such dled and empty trucks The “work safe” mandate court papers said, Revelations U.S. retailers as Sears, Target belched exhaust for hours at came after talks about key sold $1.5 million of its own and Wal-Mart. ports, after the International technology issues broke down Truth line, but those numbers The Committee for the Imple- Longshore and Warehouse between the ILWU and the allegedly fell when CK began mentation of Textile Agreements Union released carefully PMA, which have been trying competing in the same markets. made the offer to the Bangla- worded statements advising to negotiate a new labor con- Revelations is seeking gener- deshis on Wednesday. its membership to “work safe- tract since May. The most re- al damages of at least $125,000 “We wanted to minimize as ly in strict accordance with all cent contract expired July 1. and, for certain breach of con- much as possible the financial provisions of the Pacific Coast — Katherine Bowers tract claims, punitive damages. costs to importers, exporters — V.M.Y. Continued on page 8 3 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 AQUINO JOHN BY CEREMONY OPENING TURNER; DAVID BY PHOTO A. 2003. After —Burrows Dan —Malone Scott ” Roger Roger Milliken, who turns 87 Succession has long been a Sales for the quarter nicked Pence ceded the ceo title to Until reentering retail in 1999, In a research note to in- succeeding Malone. He will join the office of the chairman, which also includes Milliken, Malone and chief financial officer Jerry Pribanic. John Rekers succeed- ed Allen as president of Mil- chemical business. liken’s next month, will continue to lead the company in his current post, a spokesman said. key issue at Milliken. Milliken, a Ceo legend of the textile industry, named Malone to his post almost two decades ago in an effort to avoid the sort of cri- sis a family-owned business can face without a clear succession plan. Ownership of the company remains primarily in the hands according of the Milliken family, to outside sources, and non-fam- ily executives are said not to be allowed to own company stock. down 0.1 percent to $92.8 mil- lion from $92.9 million a year ago, while the cost of sales grew 5.7 percent to $56.7 million from $53.7 million last The year. com- pany accounts for store occu- pancy costs as a component of those expenses. Shonk-Simmons in December of 2000. Needing a break, he said he wanted his executive team to take over “day-to-day opera- tions” of the Since company. then, the firm has seen its sales growth slow — sales for the fiscal year ended March 2 were $464 million, up 1.2 percent, following 26.8 percent growth in the prior year — and earnings have been down two years in a Last row. net year, income dropped 86.4 percent to $1.8 million. Coldwater engaged exclusively in catalog and Internet retailing, but now has 39 stores and will add four more in 2002 and be- tween 15 and 20 in posting operating profits two years in its a stores row, last year had an operating loss of $439,000 on sales of $63.2 million. vestors, William Blair & Co. ana- lyst Ellen Schlossberg wrote: “While surprised by the changes, we understand the rationale, and the deeper focus ultimately will be better for the business. We have always viewed Ms. Shonk- Simmons as an extremely strong merchant with a great eye for Coldwater’s customer. biggest concern was that she Our may leave the company; however, after speaking with her, we are very confident that Ms. Shonk- Simmons is as committed as ever to Coldwater Creek.” — Dennis Pence, Coldwater Creek Inc. Creek Coldwater Pence, Dennis — Coldwater Creek In a move to boost This marks a return to a structure Tom Malone, who Tom in 1983 was this “To position, will Tom be Ashley Allen was named pres- Shonk-Simmons will retain The joint-management struc- “This marks a return to a The ceo change comes hard that worked very well in Coldwater Creek’s corporate history. “ Milliken Promotes Tom Malone Tom Promotes Milliken — NEW YORK its cadre of top executives, tex- tile powerhouse Milliken & Co. promoted its second-in-com- mand to the role of executive vice chairman and added a fourth manager to the office of the chairman. named president and is seen as the person most likely to suc- ceed Roger Milliken as chair- man and chief executive officer, in his new post as vice executive chairman will be charged with charting future strategic direc- tions for the company. bringing to bear his long experi- ence, wisdom, energy and ad- vice to ensure the long-term continuity and successful future of our said company,” Roger Milliken in a statement. ident and chief operating officer, Coldwater’s Pence Coldwater’s Role CEO Retakes NEW YORK — Inc. founder and chairman Dennis has Pence reassumed the title of chief executive officer from Georgia Shonk-Simmons, who remains president of the firm and adds the new post of officer. chief merchandise her seat on the board of direc- tors of the Sandpoint, Idaho- based multichannel retailer. ture is designed to allow both Pence, 52, and Shonk-Simmons, 51, to focus their individual strengths and collective experi- ence on the goal of establishing Coldwater Creek as one of the major brands in women’s appar- el, the firm said in a statement. structure that worked very well in Coldwater Creek’s corporate history,” said Pence in a state- ment. “My personal charge from the board of directors is return- ing the company to our days of rapid growth. As we continue to grow the brand through cata- logs, over the Internet and, in- with creasingly, the expansion of our retail store base across the country, I look forward to leveraging my sales and market- ing experience and placing ad- ditional emphasis on improving our return on invested capital and operating earnings.” on the heels of Creek’s disappointing Coldwater quarterly earnings report, released last week. the For three months ended Aug. 31, the company recorded a net loss of $650,000, or 6 cents a diluted share. That compares with last year’s prof- its of $1.3 million, or 12 cents. earnings However, per share did beat Street Wall forecasts by 1 cent. Kristi Ellis Kristi What sets Opening Ceremony The 2,500-square-foot loft The boutique carries design- “Developing countries ac- The report criticized the slow “In discussions with our [do- Zoellick noted that billions of — With contributions from contributions With — jackets and $500 to $600 for shoes. Opening Ceremony apart from other downtown bou- tiques is its novel retail concept: Founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are featuring mer- chandise from a different geo- graphic locale each This year. year it’s Hong Kong, and Leon and Lim have mined for design- ers, vintage and open-air market The idea, items ac- from that city. cording to Leon, was to create a space “as if someone were to go to that country to shop.” space, located off the beaten path in the southeastern outskirts of SoHo at 35 Howard Street, is situ- ated atop an acupressure mas- sage Inside center. the expansive store with high-ceilings, a long banquet table and chairs are situ- ated in the while center, man- nequins around it appear to be engaged in cocktail party chatter. ers such as Benjamin Cho, Mary Ping and Faunae along with de- signers from Hong Kong such as Ranee K., Amus and Kitterick. With the exception of Benjamin Cho’s collection, which sells for $300 to $5,000, the rest of the store’s offerings are more mod- erately priced at $30 to $400. support developing countries. As remedies, the bank urged the U.S., Canada and European Union nations to lower tariffs on textile and apparel imports and agricultural products to give im- poverished countries a boost. count for some 50 percent of world textile exports and 70 percent of world clothing ex- ports,” the report said. “Several have developed a high depend- ence on these exports.” pace of wealthy countries in phasing out quota on textiles and apparel imports, as stipulated in a World Trade Organization agreement to do so completely by 2005. In addition, the report noted how textile and apparel tariffs in all countries “far exceed” those on other manufactured products. mestic] textile and apparel com- panies, they are willing to negoti- ate tariffs, but they also want to be able to enter other markets,” U.S. Trade Representative Robert Zoellick told reporters Friday. dollars in all imports from poor countries enter the U.S. duty free through preferential trade agreements and free trade pacts. Opening Ceremony’s interior. Opening Ceremony’s interior. The label’s men’s Retail prices range from $650 Short for the atelier, newly wanted it to be a destina- “We The store sells men’s and Putting her clothes back on, A Gap spokeswoman in San With the exception of a Gap the On Bank World Friday, ipate in the neighbor- hood’s livelihood,” said Chapelle. and women’s collec- tions and accessories will be sold in the shop, along Austrian products re- with flecting Viennese heritage. Rubin’s The pair’s designs focus on natural fab- rics like silk chiffon, jerseys and leather with unconventional details, bursts of color and asymmetric hems. to $1,200 for dresses, $220 to $650 for sweaters and $800 to $1,400 for wool coats. The line is also sold in the U.S. at retailers such as Barneys Louis New York, Boston and Ultimo in Chicago. A. opened store A., located at 125 Crosby Street, specializes in European designers such as Sophia Kokosalaki, Anne Valerie Hash and Angelo Figus. Owners Constantin von Haeften and Karlo Steel commissioned interi- or Santangelo designer Fernando to create a minimal backdrop for the avant-garde designs they carry. The 1,200-square-foot space features a muted color palette of white, grey and brown, marble tabletops, a midcentury Danish couch, brushed steel fix- tures and antique subway lamps. tion, in close proximity to SoHo shops, but not a part of it,” said von Haeften. “What’s nice about Crosby Street is that it still has a real bohemian feel with the cob- blestone street.” women’s wear and accessories. Retail prices range from $500 to $600 for trousers, $800 to $1,000 for Gap contractor in El Salvador, Raquel Salazar, took her turn on the stump to talk about a cam- paign, supported by the apparel union UNITE, to reopen a Gap contractor in El Salvador accused of shuttering because workers or- ganized. About a dozen protesters then stripped to their underwear, chanting rather “We’d wear noth- ing than wear Gap.” Italian Rita Del Curto, an inter- national politics major Georgetown University, said she at was demonstrating against “multinational companies which systematically go to Third World countries and exploit workers.” declined Francisco comment, saying the company’s commit- ment to social responsibility is page. spelled out on its Web store next to the IMF and World Bank that was boarded up and an Ann store Taylor on 13th Street closed on down- Friday, town merchants opened. downtown However, remained streets were vacant of pedestri- ans and potential shoppers. seemed to offer demonstrators an olive branch when it issued a report concluding that rich countries should do more to Thousands of Who said retail-

However, protests However, were al- In front of Gap and Gap Kids Rally organizers stood on a Despite the tough times at re- The design duo of Sonja Movable white cycloramas also “Opening our space to artists, WASHINGTON WASHINGTON — mostly peaceful demonstrators kept office workers away from downtown and Friday caused moderate havoc in the city over the weekend, as attempts to blockade the annual meeting of the International Monetary Fund and World Bank were thwarted by a heavy police presence. lowed to continue throughout the city against a menu of issues ranging from the closure of a Gap contractor in El Salvador to fund- ing for AIDS victims in the Third World. The most ruckus rally oc- curred when Friday about 500 people were arrested after minor incidents of property damage, the severest being two windows broken in a Citibank branch. stores in Friday the high-brow neighborhood of Georgetown, about 50 protesters were confined to the sidewalk by two dozen po- lice wearing riot gear. The stores remained opened and empty dur- ing the 45-minute demonstration. redwood stump, agitating against logging on property north of San owned Francisco by the Fisher family, which has controlling in- terest in the Gap. A worker from a Gap Targeted at IMF Protests IMF at Targeted Gap Ramey Joanna By The facade of A.

By Anamaria Wilson Anamaria By NEW YORK — cautious? ers have grown too tail, September has seen a bevy of by de- York store openings in New signers and retailers of all stripes. Not only have major design com- panies like Stella McCartney and Jil Sander launched stores, but hip, specialty boutiques have bowed downtown as well, includ- ing Rubin Chapelle, A. Opening Ceremony. and Chapelle Rubin Rubin and Kip Chapelle opened the doors of their first boutique Rubin Chapelle at 14th 410 West Street on Sept. 21. The 2,500- square-foot space, designed by architect Annabelle Selldorf, is a play between rustic and sleek with exposed brick walls and ce- ment floors contrasting with an entranceway of glass rods and black leather trimmings. “We wanted to focus on the linearity of the space,” said Rubin. “And create a space that breathes and adjusts when you enter it.” add to the mod effect and will be used to display apparel, artwork and live performances, such as po- etry readings and musical acts. photographers, musicians and writers is one way we can partic- Downtown Trio Has Upscale Spirit Upscale Has Trio Downtown 4 Burn, Baby, Burn

Gucci Gucci Fendindi FFendiendi WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 WWD, MONDAY,

Gucci FendiFendi

MILAN — Looking for a spring woman’s desire to buy and a love a piece or two — for exam- At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld is women everywhere will want to trend? Over the weekend in man and woman’s desire to, ple, those glorious kimonos, thinking Roman holiday. But catch his flou. But if you’re Milan, you didn’t have to search well, you know. If her life in the worn flowing in the runway not a little black dress à la thinking pure romance — stop. too far. Many designers here fastest lane doesn’t keep his breeze over nothing but the Audrey. Instead, he harkened There’s nothing like a black seem to have one thing on their Gucci girl in near-constant heat, scantiest little briefs — well, back to the really good old days, leather vest or gold chain har- minds. Dolce & Gabbana spelled these clothes sure will. He fig- Ford is nothing if not ecumeni- when Catullus spouted love dit- ness to give an edge to butterfly it out, casting S-E-X in big capi- ures his customer is over her cal of thought. ties, criminals and Christians chiffon. In fact, some of tal letters on the chokers that Goth moment, and now wants to Still, his genius lies in part in got tossed to the lions and Lagerfeld’s models wore more accessorized almost every look. revel in her ample powers of se- his steadfast acceptance of real- everybody who was anybody chains than Marley’s ghost, and So for spring, forget discretion, duction a little — or a lot — ity, which for even the most sen- hopped on the trend chariot of they looked divine in their chic refinement, subtlety. The big more overtly. sual of women often requires the moment — the toga. The re- shackles. news in Milan last weekend was Ford’s sensing her other de- more than microwear. To that sult was an eccentric sizzler of a True, many of these clothes the heat, and the temperatures sires, as well. She wants big, end, he opened the show with a collection, daring in its baccha- are not for everyone; the best outside aren’t even balmy. But messy come-hither hair. Color — crisp white military-inspired nalian bravado. sexpot clothes never are. Skin inside on the runways, the cli- soft blues and pinks. jacket, and showed some chic Of course, when fashion sightings revved up the view mate couldn’t be steamier. Embellishments — Chinoiserie leather jackets and loose waxes classically steamy, there’s from all angles. If skirts weren’t At Gucci, Tom Ford was at his hand painting and embroidery. blousons that fell casually off almost inevitably a hint of micro, they were cut asymmetri- blatant, brazen best. Word has it Mostly she wants to flaunt that one shoulder, often over shiny Gianni Versace. But then, cally for a major show of leg; that he wanted to send a point- bod, and starts by reviving the pants that were wrapped and Lagerfeld wrote the book on other pieces peekaboo-ed all ed message: While his attention mini in all its microscopic glory. tied at the ankle. And he put making a legacy his own. He over the place, requiring a body may be divided between two A dress can’t get any shorter or everything with the same shoe took the basic motif, crossed in worthy of a Panthenon diety. houses, his focus on Gucci re- tighter — whether in draped jer- — a dazzling silver stiletto. a little Xena and sexpot sea Still, Lagerfeld knows that such mains as sharp as ever. He even sey, embroidered organza or Of course, all that glitters is urchin — and even a fleeting li- skin shows don’t work for every- gave a nod to the corporate life, feathers worked for faux-in- not silver. When the stakes are brarian flash. He opened with one, and mixed in some beauti- turning to Stella’s dad for his genue charm — or more alluring really high, a girl can market au sauvage swimsuits, swirled, ful, more subdued jackets, filmy soundtrack in a moment of syn- for all those stars and starlets herself in a dress crafted en- slashed and trailing various tops and skirts. Throughout, he ergistic amusement. who will be lining up for pre- tirely of 18-karat strips. Now graceful appendages. This led to went for major optic verve, Ford believes that fashion is miere frocks. And if some other that’s going for the gold; rose a parade of dresses, skirts and working in bold prints and a all about provoking desire — a working-girl types might also gold, that is. tops so delectably seductive palette of evocative blues and Prada Prada Dolce & Gabbana Dolce & Gabbana 5 Short MONDAY,WWD, 2002 30, SEPTEMBER n Ta ke MILAN — Miniskirts and micro-dresses may be storm- ing the runways here, but some retailers and editors are questioning how far they’ll go in real life. “The liposuction doctors are going to be licking their chops,” quipped Linda Wells, editor in chief of Allure. “Usually, there’s an association between short skirts and a good economy. Maybe designers are trying to make that happen. It seems a bit like forced optimism.” Joan Kaner, senior vice Prada president and fashion direc- tor at Neiman Marcus, said Dolce & Gabbana she’s hoping to find longer options in showrooms. “Last night, the models were yanking the dresses down to cover their rear ends,” she said, referring to Tom Ford’s parade of tiny dresses at Gucci. “For the young, it’s fine. At de- signer prices, you’re cater- ing to a different woman and I don’t see that many women running around in skirts that short.” Kuwaiti retailer Majed Al-Sabah said most stores are likely to buy very short styles for enticing window displays, but he expects a tiny minority of women to wear it, given what he sees on the streets of Milan and Paris. “In my market, no one could wear them,” he said. “Most of the short dresses, I’ll buy them as tops and tunics.” Julie Gilhart, vice presi- dent and fashion director for women’s at Barneys New York, said the store would be buying into the look for next spring. “It’s all about a very slim purples, often decorated with before. This time, however, it distinctive depth. laced up the sides, the Playboy pencil skirt or a short free-form silver sequined em- was infused with an appealing Introspection is never an Bunny-riffing bustier romper miniskirt,” she said. “Short broideries. junior jet-set guise. The models issue at Dolce & Gabbana. and white shirt; the micro tube feels right, now. Anything It all made for plenty of heat, wore aviator sunglasses as Season after season, Domenico dress with thigh-high hose — long doesn’t look new.” more than enough to make headbands controlling big, casu- Dolce and Stefano Gabbana cel- proving that, while trends may But the predominance of Rome — or for that matter, New ally glam hair, while sporting ebrate a sexed-up, glammed-out come and go, sexy is forever. extremely short skirts, also York, Paris or any Lagerfeld-lov- short shifts and skirts with a de- woman who works her wiles at Dolce promised that, after seen at Prada, Fendi, Jil ing gladiatrix outpost the world cidedly girlish air. Prada kept every turn. So what if, over the their brief trip down memory Sander, Max Mara and Dolce over — burn plenty. everything short, simple and re- last few seasons, she has tin- runway, he and Gabbana would & Gabbana, is prompting a There are, of course, differ- laxed, right down to the domi- kered with rustic themes and take the collection where lot of reflection. ent paths to sexy. Just ask nant shoe — an eccentric flat assumed a vaguely bohemian they’ve “never, never, never “I don’t think a lot of the Miuccia Prada, who last season number that looked like a san- chic? You just knew that the taken it.” They took it all over designer customers are stunned everyone with her in- dal-elf slipper hybrid. As al- getting-back-to-nature business the place. Surely they’ve always going to be able to wear that vestigation of the glamazon life ways, there were some fabulous was only a pose. Now she’s done done a thing or two with men’s length, as much as they for Prada. “I’m interested in the clothes to be found — short with it, and ready to focus anew wear, and here loosened their might like,” said Charla obsession with sexiness,” she skirts, chic brocades, little on the hard work and hard play jacket proportions nicely while Lawhon, managing editor of said at the time. Now, Prada dresses encrusted with beads of being a full-time sexpot. And deconstructing men’s shirts and In Style. “There comes a seems bored with more overt that looked like pebbles gath- even if she often goes over- reworking them to a fair-thee- point in every woman’s life expressions of that fascination, ered from the beach. And she board, it’s still a whole lot of well — a one-shoulder, a fly- when she probably wouldn’t yet unwilling to let it go com- showed spectacular handbags, fun. Just ask the convocation of away back. They went for casual wear a skirt so short.” pletely. “I don’t like obvious structured satchels slung from bombshells Domenico Dolce luxe in fab chainmail-trimmed Wells noted that the last sexy,” she said before showing arched chrome handles. and Stefano Gabbana assem- furs tossed on over jeans, time such short skirts were her spring collection on Friday. There were also racy jersey bled for their show: Gisele, played to the Roman way with in fashion, women wore “That’s my problem.” briefs — lots of them — worn Naomi, Eva, Amber, Stephanie. draping, and said,”Hello sailor” them with dark tights. This Certainly for spring Miuccia with a coat here, a boxy tunic If that lineup rings partially with naughty nauticals. And the week, they’re being fea- moved miles away from that fall there. Sexy? In a way — a very retro, there’s a reason. As with duo sojourned into an over- tured with bare legs. treatise on the bombshell, while young way. But then, Miuccia’s this collection, the designers wrought vision of the future Elizabeth Saltzman, fashion seeming not to have resolved postadolescent miss turned are reviving several looks from with aluminum foil clothes that director of Vanity Fair, ap- the evolution of her thought prudish and went for the cover the past to hit the stores under were part Barbarella, part plauded the look as irrever- process on what makes for of a full, knee-length skirt that a new Dolce & Gabbana red Space Age mall-rat biker babe. ent and fun, perfect for provocation. As a result, the turned her a tad mousy. Still, vintage label. And what better And they punctuated almost young pop stars, “rock show lacked the bravura and like all designers and all way to reintroduce the steamy everything with those chokers chicks” and the likes of clarity that mark her most bril- women, Prada has every right to looks than on the fabulous that cut to the fashion chase: Sarah Jessica Parker and

liant work. reassess her views on femininity women who wore them the first These clothes are made some- Cameron Diaz. MAESTRI DAVIDE AND GIANNONI VANNI O I G

Unlike last season’s womanly and sexuality season after sea- time around? times for LOVE, but more often And for mere mortals? Y B

icon, Prada’s subject here was son. She didn’t take the process In fact, the vintage looks that for SEX. Sound like too much? “Time to hit the S O younger, with a Courreges atti- far enough, however, which left opened the show were some of It was. But for these guys, too Stairmaster,” she said. T O H

tude the designer has explored us longing for more of Miuccia’s the best — the second-skin dress much is never enough. P 6 Milan: Incrementa Not every change has to be dramatic. And, as the Milan shows rolled along, some were and some weren’t. At Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani seized on a surprising inspiration, Cuba, while, at Pucci, Christian Lacroix debuted a snappy mix. Mariuccia Mandelli, for her part, showed a little of everything for Krizia.

Emporio Armani Emporio ArmaniEmporio Pucci Pucci WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, Armani

Krizia

Emporio Armani: All the way from Cuba the trade winds his most editorial work. retro — no easy feat when those bright swirls scream blew a freshness into Giorgio Armani’s spring Emporio Well, Armani is nothing if not strongminded, and Sixties jet-set. Instead he treaded a line between street- Armani show with cigar-wielding models sauntering by even after last season’s novelty pants earned a thumbs- inspired sportif and ethereal with lots of flou. From the wearing berets. Of course, his was a sophisticated vision down, he stuck to his guns. Looking for a pair of droopy former came neon-infused motocross gear — not of the of the tropics — this is Armani, after all — steeped in diaper shorts? Dhoti pants? Shorts with the legs hitched Harley-Davidson school, mind you, but the screeching the casual attitude and subtle steam of a chic Havana. A up by straps? Then Armani’s your man. But if wacky’s Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha variety — with splashy track sailor striped T-shirt topped tan suede pants and there not your thing, Armani won’t care. Remember, he’s got jackets, checkered flag tanks and a hooded maillot. The were billowing skirts and peasanty tops for any girl in a loads of charming, sophisticated, breezy clothes, too. As more girlish styles included billowing chiffon dresses, a sunny state of mind. A slouchy suede drawstring jacket for this season’s sexy mood — nothing says sexy like a terrific trench in eye-popping pink and green and sexy and gauzy cream suit were just the thing. And what girl young woman with a cigar and a beret. off-the-shoulder chiffon blouses to keep things pretty. wouldn’t want one of his fabulous swimsuits? It all But some of Lacroix’s looks missed by a long shot, es- made for a strong start. Pucci: The match seemed made in heaven — Christian pecially the whole pack of novelty pants. He succumbed Nevertheless, the collection wasn’t all a walk on the Lacroix designing the Pucci collection. What a duo. No to all manner and variety — dhoti pants, saggy diaper beach. Giorgio Armani is known for his exquisite tailor- one could handle the house’s madcap prints better than pants, balloon-legged styles — all in screaming ing, his mastery of evening glamour and his overall sub- a designer like Lacroix, whose own kooky vision has al- Technicolor. dued chic, but could it be he’d also like to be known as ways been kaleidoscopic. Did anticipation run high on Reviving a house with a heritage that’s so specific — the go-to guy for tricky pants? Last season, when Saturday night when Lacroix debuted his Pucci look? and loud — is not an easy task. Part of the problem is Armani showed velvet bloomers at Emporio and made You betcha. that these days Pucci is a wardrobe novelty, and basing Ali Baba pants for the signature line, he took an artistic Lacroix seized hold of the house’s classic snappy a whole collection on those prints can go from amusing stance, claiming he didn’t care if the critics didn’t like prints and gave them a healthy tweak without going too to dizzying to tiresome. Lacroix’s challenge now is to 7 Fashion Scoops MONDAY,WWD, 2002 30, SEPTEMBER FAME GAME: They’ve been filling his front row for years. Now, celebrities will finally appear in Giorgio Armani advertising. Armani has tapped Kristin Scott Thomas, Milla Jovovich and Olivier Martinez for his spring campaigns, to be lensed by Paolo ntal Changes Roversi and Peter Lindbergh. Jovovich sat front row at the Emporio Armani show Saturday with her pooch, Madness, tucked in her gold lamé bag. Making Krizia Philosophy di Annnana her first appearance at a fashion show was “Blue Crush” star Alberta Ferretti MMolinariolinari Kate Bosworth, who confessed that the film, shot in Hawaii, gave her the surfing bug. “I don’t get to surf as much as I like,” she said. “The water’s too cold in California.” Meanwhile, expect major star wattage at his Giorgia Armani show Tuesday, including Thomas, George Clooney, Mira Sorvino and Sophia Loren. A last-minute request came from the leggy one herself, Tina Turner.

STAR SEARCH: Donatella Versace can always be counted on to dazzle the paparazzi. Britney Spears will be the guest of honor at her show Tuesday. The pop princess breezed in to town over the weekend and is staying as a guest of Versace at the family’s villa on Lake Como. Her security brigade has already done a sweep of the Via Gesu runway venue.

PUFF PIECE: Talk about making an entrance. While the audience waited for the music to start and the first model to exit Sunday at Dolce & Gabbana, out strode Sean “P. Diddy” Combs instead, trailed by bodyguards, leaving people wondering if fashionistas are really that much of a threat. The night before, he caused a mini-stir at Bice in his white track suit covered in Sean John logos. Locals approached him for autographs. His posse included Naomi Campbell dressed in a poncho, jeans and black Converse sneakers. Meanwhile, another music mogul, Damon Dash, is making the rounds of Milan shows filming a documentary about his fashion adventure. He’s also planning to hit Paris fashion week.

SOUND OF SILENCE: No, Ingrid Sischy has not become a sketch artist, although she has been scribbling furiously on a blackboard in Milan. Rather, the editor in chief of Interview has a bad case of laryngitis and was told by her doctor not to utter one word for two weeks. She blamed the condition on overly air- conditioned shows in New York.

DISAPPEARING ACT: If David Copperfield wanted to be invisible, he succeeded at the Mila Schön show Friday. His sudden Philosophy Anna interest in fashion went unnoticed by the paparazzi and he Molinari di Alberta Molinari hasn’t yet reappeared at other shows. Ferretti Could the ex-fiance of Claudia Schiffer be on the lookout for more model love? He’s recently been spotted with Heidi Albertsen, an Elite model, and he’s expected at Roberto Cavalli on Monday.

VINTAGE TURN DOWN: Dolce & Gabbana envisioned a major supermodel reunion as a way to introduce a series of “vintage” pieces at their show Sunday. Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell agreed, but Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington declined the offer. Seems the girls weren’t up for corset dresses a second time around.

ZAC ATTACK: New York designer Zac (don’t call him young) Posen, in Milan for last week’s Enkamania young designer contest, has been turning up in front rows everywhere, from Gucci to Pucci. Time will tell whether he’s already used up his 15 minutes. Is the 22-year-old shopping for inspiration? “No, no. I’m just here working on fabrics,” he said. “The textile companies here are so talented.”

VISITING DIGNITARY: Giorgio Armani was parked in the front row of take the sprit of the brand and spin it in a more mod- hold, say, a little cell phone or a lipstick. the Salvatore Ferragamo show Sunday. He was there to cheer ern way. If anyone can do it, he can. Poet blouses and ruffled peasant styles served to Armani alum Graeme Black, who presented his first full soften the message, but Ferretti also tempered the collection for the Florentine house. Krizia/Krizia Top: Mariuccia Mandelli’s strategy is very tough stuff with a full dose of cute — working with en- “I decided to come because he is a person who worked with much like that of a chef du cuisine who likes to show gineer’s stripes, cutting a red suede utility skirt extra- me for many years,” Armani said. “It was an obvious courtesy.” off his many talents with a tasting menu. And so her short and whipping up a full fleet of dresses in slinky The Scottish-born Black replaced Marc Audibet, who exited spring collection was a multicourse offering of ideas silk but built like overalls. The collection was focused when his two-year contract expired last year. that included short skirts and long skirts; flowing — some might say myopic — and perfect for any girl pants, dhoti pants and riding pants, as well as crum- who lives a life of leisure, but hopes to hint at hard SLIP SLIDING AWAY: Journalists gathered in Miuccia Prada’s office pled paper dresses, woven leather versions and glittery labor with her look. Friday for her usual pre-show press conference were confronted sheers. Linking it all together was an undone aesthetic by a large metal tube protruding through the concrete floor. — a trend that seems to have captured the fancy of Anna Molinari: Rosella Tarabini’s spring collection for Was it a skylight, a massive interoffice mail tube, or a chute many designers this season. Anna Molinari brings a very specific girl to mind. She’s for quick disposal of naughty reporters? No, it turned out to be Mandelli’s various pieces were strategically hinged, a modern rock chick who calls the East Village or the the entrance to a gigantic slide that curls down three floors into tied, wrapped or tucked and trailing streamers or East End home, and who knows just how to mix her a courtyard, a work by Belgian artist Carsten Holler. strings. Sometimes the effect was sexy, sometimes a tad broken-in basics — faded black skinny jeans à la the Does Prada end each workday with a stress-releasing ride? sloppy. Among the standout items were Mandelli’s an- Ramones, a simple flight jacket in waxed linen, a No, a Prada spokeswoman said. But she has tried it, as have tique lace camisoles and fluttering chiffon dresses in slouchy off-the-shoulder sweater — with glittering many visitors. washed-out watercolor prints. The design direction at thrift store finds. Her look: casual, rumpled and And the designer had no problem with tough questions at the Krizia has been rather erratic over the past few years, strangely glamorous, like a modern day “Desperately press conference. A few gasped when an Italian reporter asked with guest designers coming and going, but now it Seeking Susan.” Prada what she thought of the “Zara phenomenon.” Prada paused seems that Mariuccia has taken charge again. Tarabini conjured up this free spirit by pairing a at length, and then declared: “Why not? They do a good job.” whole lot of short babydoll dresses in gold lace, shim- Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti: With a slew of snaps, riv- mering sequins or chiffon, over a ton of tough skinny ROYAL FLUSH: Designer Maurizio Pecararo has received a royal ets and rugged trimmings, Alberta Ferretti’s Philosophy pants. She worked a Mod angle with an A-line leopard seal of approval from Queen Rania of Jordan. She ordered more girls looked of a mind to roll up their sleeves and really coat, Carnaby Street striped pants and plenty of than 40 ensembles from the Sicilian designer’s fall collection for do something. The workwear influence has taken hold frothy antique-looking prom dresses, each ravaged an official visit to Germany. The royal discovered Pecoraro’s in Milan, even if none of Ferretti’s fans ever breaks a prettily at the hem. Of course, break it all down, and clothes in a London boutique and has since ordered custom- sweat and even if the painter’s pockets covering the there’s plenty of mildly rebellious stuff here for the tailored suits and dresses.

skirts and dresses in this collection are only used to girl next door, too. MIRANDA MAURICIO AND MAESTRI DAVIDE BY PHOTOS WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 8 Bangladesh Cuts Deal trade agreements. follow to countries foreign ing forc- by internationally compete to makers textile U.S. help to administration’spledge Bush the the to Philippines andEgypt].” [applied formulas lesser the to back go couldn’t we felt we and suffering really are guys textile our is reason other “The said. together,”Hutchinson act its get to Bangladesh to sage of quotamismanagement.” case “egregious an was it cause be- stiff so was penalty the said Apparel, and Textiles of Office Department’s Commerce the of administration evenallowedit. the “grateful” is he adding said, Hussain choice,” a have didn’t we again then but harsh, so be quota. the followingyear’s against charges smaller ceived re- but quota, additional granted were occasions separate on Egypt and Philippines the when cases similar two to pointed He huge.” so be could penalty the that idea the given never “were expensive.” 1, andthatisvery Jan. on year quota new the until warehouses U.S. in them store to pay or Bangladesh to back clothes the send to have either would importers that been have would implication the posal, pro- the to agreed not had we “If Hussain. said retailers,” and C ontinued from page 2 page from ontinued He claimed textile makers textile claimed He to pointed also Hutchinson mes- a send to “Wewanted director Hutchinson, Michael would it thought “Wenever officials Bangladeshi said He s 100,000,000 Morethan Mini-Super-Rich Japanese Meetthe They buy over 40% of the world‘s luxury goods. luxury world‘s the of Theyoverbuy40% www.digitalpowerhouse.com 212.844.0100Moriyama, Naomi Contact: Mini-Super-Rich”Japanese today. the to of“Marketing presentation Schedulea market.Japan the master brands luxury global helps that agency creative and marketing a powerhouseis digital hottestnewyourcustomers. Japan, Mini-Super-Richthe Meet of powerhouse.fashion and luxury global a Theyare globe-trottingwomen.young 10,000,000fashion-obsessed, Theyinclude o p h isticatedshoppers. N e w

Y o r k T o k yo working inthatdirection.” are we and possible as soon as damage the repair to is goal “Our said. Hussain damage,” porters havebeenstrained. im- U.S. and makers Bangladeshi between relationships some said He category. that of duction overpro- the to contributed which unrest, civil to due Madagascar of out trousers cotton of duction pro- shifted who importers from orders unexpected received desh onJan.1. category that on out phased were quotas However, ramie. and blends silk as such trousers, vegetable-fiber non-cotton for category quota er anoth- from percent 15 borrowing of practice its on based it cated overallo- and year following the for December in quota allocates government the said He Hussain. to according report, CITA a and calculations quota their tween be- discrepancies big found ment govern- Bangladeshi the when some kindofflexibilityoffered.” not was there if sustained losses economic about concerned really are community import the in ple peo- of number a because out an and option an them give to cided “Wede- said, He shot.” “one-time quotas. next year’s from dozen 525,690 deduct will CITA dozen, 175,230 entire the ships Bangladesh penalty.If the to due year’s this than lower be could limits quota Bangladesh’s year,since next benefit will “I thinkthereisalreadysome Bangla- that noted Hussain May in began problems The a was this insisted Hutchinson Cathy Horyn Celebrates Blass “I holdnogrudges.” said. Renta say,”la to de have I what said just “I remarks. mer for- his downplayed he which after cheek, the on peck big a with Horyn greeted and room up. DelaRenta walkedintothe have apparentlypatchedthings two The journalism. fashion for Award the Sheppard Eugenia won she when spring this Horyn criticized publicly he though even up showed who Renta, la de Oscar of rival ar- the was night the of sight like aBondgirl.” look I me told Brantley “Ben accessories. of choice her on Grunwald said feathers,” black featherboa. orange-and- Blass-designed a wearing Grunwald, Louise host Talley,and Leon André Vogue’s naturellement); Pepe, (sans Griscom Nina Brantley; Ben and Norwich William scribes Times Lauren; and Ralph Rodriguez Narcisco Herrera, Carolina designers included and Library Public YorkNew the at room Blass Bill the in enough, propriately critic CathyHoryn. fashion YorkTimes’ New The with collaboration in Blass by written were which Blass, Bill designer late the of memoirs the Blass,” “Bare of lease re- the celebrate to night day Mon- last droves in out came — YORK NEW Perhaps the most surprising most the Perhaps chicken my are “These ap- convened, guests The — Jacob Bernstein

© 2002 digitalpowerhouse The fashion set fashion The T LINE CORPORATION AND CALIFORNIA FASHIONINDUSTRIES CALIFORNIA CORPORATIONAND LINE R COMMITTEE FOR CREDITORS IN THE MATTER OF CHORUS OF MATTER THE IN CREDITORS FOR COMMITTEE OFFERS SHOULD BE SENT BY OCT. 3, 2002 TO THE FOLLOWING: THE BYOCT.TO SENT 2002 BE 3, SHOULD OFFERS ASSOCIATED TRADEMARKS ASSOCIATED S BANKRUPTCIES SOLICITS OFFERS FOR THE SALE OF SALE THE FOR OFFERS SOLICITS BANKRUPTCIES A A L E André Leon TalleyAndré Leon andOscardelaRenta. andCarolinaHerrera,CathyHoryn Patricia Grunwald; CisnerosandLouise Clockwise fromtopleft:RalphLauren; THE NATIONALLYTHE TRADEMARKS: RECOGNIZED

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ENTERPRISES, INC. 10 Paris Designer Preview Avenue Montaigne Makeover

Plein Sud on Avenue Montaigne. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 WWD, MONDAY,

Gucci’s new shop on Avenue Montaigne. HANE FEUGERE HANE P E T S

Y B

S O Vanessa Bruno’s new shop. T Jean Claude Jitrois’ redone shop. O H P

By Robert Murphy for the prestige. tic,” said the designer. “So we stripped treat them as such?” And why did “Montaigne ranks, like Madison Avenue the walls to show the original brick and Norimatsu choose to name the shop It? PARIS — Avenue Montaigne, the grand in New York, among the most important exposed the beams in the ceiling and left “Because all of the It girls of Paris will old dame of luxury shopping strips, has shopping streets in the world,” he said. open a skylight in the back. I wanted the want to come,” she said. had a facelift. “But over the last three years, the street place to have soul.” In the last year, Calvin Klein, Marni, has gotten much more lively and fun.” French store designer David Exbrayat, Street Sweep Dolce & Gabbana and Pucci have all set up Plein Sud’s 2,500-square-foot bou- who has done interiors for L’Eclaireur Forget spring cleaning. A bevy of bou- shop there. Plein Sud opened in August. tique, next to Emanuel Ungaro, replaces here, created the 1,300-square-foot unit, tiques here have redecorated this fall, And most recently, in mid-September, Dolce & Gabbana, which in July trans- which will serve as the concept for future from Jean Claude Jitrois, at 40 Rue du Gucci flung open the doors to a stunning ferred just a few doors down to a 5,500- Bruno boutiques. Bruno’s Left Bank shop Faubourg Saint-Honoré, to Yves Saint 7,500-square-foot showcase. Coming soon is square-foot space in the new LVMH on the Rue Saint Sulpice has already Laurent’s new accessories outlet at 6 Rue a Gianfranco Ferré boutique. headquarters building. The LVMH build- been redone using the concept. de Grenelle, on the Left Bank. Lanvin, Dior president Sydney Toledano, ing, slated to open next year, is also ex- “I love the Rue de Castiglione,” said marking the arrival of Alber Elbaz’s whose retail flagship sits on the street, pected to house a Louis Vuitton shop. Bruno of the street that links the Rue de freshman collection for the house, refur- attributes Montaigne’s resurgence to the Amor described the new shop, with its Rivoli with the Place Vendôme. “It has bished its two-level flagship at 15 opening of recent restaurants there, such ochre walls and black washed wood an upscale feel. But I wanted the shop to Faubourg Saint-Honoré with dark wood as the Costes brothers’ trendy L’Avenue, floors, as a “more sophisticated interpre- be accessible to everyone. It’s meant to fixtures and sleek lamps. YSL’s acces- and designer Patrick Jouin’s revamp of tation of Plein Sud’s baroque aesthetic. be sophisticated but not overbearing.” sories store, with a dark, mysterious am- the Plaza Athenee bar. It’s more modern than Plein Sud shops in Meanwhile, Bruno has just opened a biance, boasts a sleek interior with pol- “Montaigne has always been a tourist the past. It’s purer. But there’s still an at- shop in Tokyo, her eighth in Japan. And ished fixtures and mirrors. In a similar destination,” said Toledano. “But now it’s mosphere evocative of southern France.” New York retailer Steven Allen has dedi- vein, YSL has also redecorated its men’s attracting more locals. It’s a destination, Meanwhile, Gucci opened a two-story cated his 60 Wooster Street shop exclu- store at nearby 6 Place Saint Sulpice. a place to see and be seen. People like to store on the corner of Montaigne and the sively to Bruno’s designs. For his part, Jitrois tapped French de- feel a shopping experience. They dip Rond Pont des Champs-Elysées. It is the “I’d love to have my own shop in New signer Christophe Pillet to completely into a store and then lunch at the Avenue second Gucci unit to employ the new, York,” said Bruno. “We’re on the lookout overhaul his small store. “It’s supposed or drink at the Plaza. The Avenue Mon- softer concept, designed by Tom Ford for the right space. It’s next on my agenda.” to be very sexy,” said Jitois. taigne now has buzz.” and architect William Sofield. The con- Pillet covered the walls in leather and Toledano added that the wide avenue cept was unveiled at the firm’s Madison That’s It hung stalactite-like glass tube lights from is easier accessed by car than Faubourg Avenue shop in early September. Good things often come in small pack- the ceiling. “I wanted it to be like a mod- Saint Honoré, its equally chic but quite The space features dark wood panel- ages. At least, that is the case with It, a ern boudoir,” said the designer. “There’s narrow shopping counterpart that counts ing, poured concrete displays and an ultra- 250-square-foot accessories-only shop even a leather bed.” Hermès, Lanvin, Prada and Comme des modern mosaic floor that leads to a sweep- that opened at 66 Rue des Saints Peres Meanwhile, a spate of shops are slated Garçons as tenants. ing carved-stone staircase. It boasts 15 dis- here, on the Left Bank, this summer. to bow during fashion week. They include Traffic has become even tighter on play windows on the ground floor, where “We wanted to do something new,” a new concept Chanel shop at 21 Faubourg Saint Honoré since Sept. 11, as police the men’s and women’s accessories lines said Minako Norimatsu, a Japanese fash- Saint Honoré, a Philippe Starck-designed threw up barricades and blocked access are showcased. On the second floor, featur- ion journalist who runs the store. “Paris Jean Paul Gaultier shop at the 44 Avenue to the nearby American embassy. ing men’s and women’s shoes and ready- didn’t have a one-stop destination for Georges V and Kenzo’s revamped 10 Place “Shoppers don’t like the traffic on the to-wear, there are another dozen windows. trendy accessories.” The minimalist shop, de la Madeleine flagship. Faubourg,” said Toledano. “There’s no designed by French architect Joseph Also of note will be the accessories de- place for chauffeurs to wait. So Mon- Bruno Keeps It Simple Dirand, stocks Marc Jacobs, Chloé, Ruffo signer Mina Poe’s first shop, designed by taigne is getting those customers.” Dior French designer Vanessa Bruno wanted to Research, Helmut Lang, Maurizio celebrated decorator Alberto Pinto and operates shops on both streets. get back to basics for her new shop here in Pecoraro and Agnona, among others. located at 19 Rue Duphot. Poe, an emerg- Faycal Amor, designer and owner of the arcades at 12 Rue de Castiglione. “Accessories are as important as ing talent, designs high-end, one-of-a- Plein Sud, said he targeted Montaigne “The idea was to do something authen- clothes now,” said Norimatsu. “Why not kind bags and accessories. SPRING SUMMER 2003 PARIS FASHION SHOW: FRIDAY OCTOBER 4 PARIS SHOW-ROOM: HÔTEL DE CRILLON, PLACE DE LA CONCORDE FROM SATURDAY OCTOBER 5 TO FRIDAY OCTOBER 11 EXCLUSIVE AGENT FOR AMERICA, RUSSIA, C. S. I., FAR EAST STUDIO FERRANTE 35, VIA SENATO MILAN/ITALY PHONE 0039.02.79 67 60 FAX 0039.02.78 32 35 E-mail: [email protected] PARIS THE FRENCH WORD parisFOR FASHION parisparis [email protected]

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2002

FASHION SHOWS FATEX L’OLYMPIA JOURNÉES DU PRÊT-À-PORTER DES November 5-7 Sonny Rollins COUTURIERS ET DES CRÉATEURS DE MODE Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord Villepinte Bryan Ferry 2003 Spring-Summer Ready-to-Wear • Tél : +33 (0)1 40 20 03 98 PALAIS DES CONGRÈS DE PARIS Collections ( October 3-12) INTERSELECTION Ray Charles For information, please contact : November 5-7 ● EXHIBITIONS Fédération Française de la Couture, Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord Villepinte MAISON EUROPÉENNE du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers • Tél : +33 (0)1 47 56 32 32 DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE et des Créateurs de Mode Irving Penn • Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 66 64 44 CULTURAL EVENTS IN PARIS MUSÉE GALLIÉRA • www.modeaparis.com ● BALLETS Henry Clarke, Photographe de Mode OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS BASTILLE MUSÉE D’ART MODERNE TRADE SHOWS Ballet Frankfurt Matthew Barney WORKSHOP « Le lac des Cygnes », Ballet de l’Opéra de Paris Francis Picabia October 9-13 THÉÂTRE DU CHATELET PALAIS DE TOKYO Cercle Républicain Ballet du Théâtre Mariinski de Saint-Pétersbourg Louise Bourgeois • Tél : +33 (0)1 40 02 03 14 ● OPÉRA CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU ESPACE CAROLE DE BONA OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS BASTILLE Max Beckmann October 9-13 Le Nozze di Figaro by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart Roland Barthes Espace Carole de Bona - 60, rue Richelieu Boris Godounov by Modeste GRAND PALAIS • Tél : +33 (0)1 42 86 98 28 Petrovitch Moussorgski Matisse-Picasso PREMIÈRE CLASSE THÉÂTRE DU CHATELET Constable The Fashion Accessories Trade Show Barbara Hendricks MUSÉE D’ORSAY October 10-13 Jessye Norman Manet-Velasquez Terrasse des Feuillants Jardin des Tuileries OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS GARNIER JEU DE PAUME • Tél : +33 (0)1 40 13 74 70 Giulio Cesare by Georg Friedrich Haendel Georges Mathieu PARIS SUR MODE ● CLASSICAL CONCERT For further information, please contact : October 10-13 THÉÂTRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES The Office de Tourisme de Paris Jardin des Tuileries Orchestre du Festival de Budapest www.paris-touristoffice.com • Tél : +33 (0)1 49 09 60 36 Orchestre National de France ATMOSPHÈRE D’ÉTÉ Wiener Philharmoniker FRENCH FASHION IN AMERICA October 10-13 Augustin Dumay, violon. ● « FEMME FATALE : FASHION AND VISUAL Jardin des Tuileries Maria Joao Pires, piano CULTURE IN FIN-DE-SIÈCLE » • Tél : +33 (0)1 49 09 60 36 OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS BASTILLE Seventh Avenue at 27 street TRANOÏ Orchestre de l’Opéra National de Paris Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) October 10-13 ● JAZZ/ ROCK/ POP New York City L’Espace Austerlitz THÉÂTRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES • Tel : (212) 217 59 92 • Tél : +33 (0)1 53 01 84 93 Graig Amstrong fitnyc.edu/museum 14 Paris Designer Preview Special Items Fuel Fall Sales

PARIS — From glamorous fur to cool denim, retailers Salamon, women’s wear divisional merchandise manag- business. “Our clients belong to the high-range end of surveyed in France, Italy and Germany said that unusu- er, said fur has made a “big splash,” so far. “Very femi- the market and they were less hard-hit by the economy.” al or expensive ready-to-wear and accessories designs nine evening looks are strong. On the other hand, denim Rosi Biffi, owner of the upscale Biffi and Banner are spurring fall sales. has been blowing out, from more junior looks to design- Milanese boutiques, said her clients “are definitely not Coming off a strong July and August, most retailers er denim.” Salamon said gray-washed denim and low- looking for classic items, but for cautiously trendy ones. surveyed said business cooled in early September, but is waisted boot-cut jeans were moving well. We are selling small and lean shapes, with the exception

WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, beginning to heat up again. Demand for black, a staple Salamon said clients have been most attracted by of Yohji Yamamoto’s larger designs.” Biffi added that vel- last year, has waned, eclipsed by such colors as brown, “high-end” pieces. “There’s been no resistance at all to vet, tweed, brown and burgundy have been bestsellers. khaki or white. putting big money on a fur coat. It’s fresh and it is imme- “Considering all that’s happening around us, we’re Retailers’ main message, though, was that only the diate luxury. Shoppers want to spend money, but they selling well,” she said. “Price is not an issue, but I see most exciting and uncommon pieces now incite cus- want to spend money on something new and exciting.” our clients buying a smaller number of items.” tomers to spend. Salamon said feminine silhouettes have been most Stefan Alsbrand-Eickhoff, managing partner of the “Customers are spending money on unusual designs,” warmly received. Still, she added that military looks, espe- Düsseldorf specialty store Eickhoff, cited Gucci, Dior, said Josef Voelk, managing director of Quartier 206, a cially baggy trousers with cargo pockets, have been strong. Galliano, Dolce & Gabbana, Marni and Yves Saint department store in Berlin. “They are looking for things “Evening looks have been strong. Dresses with flower Laurent as selling well. that are special. There’s no demand for basics.” prints and bulky sweaters have also been moving well,” “All of the main brands have been very important,” he The prognosis is similar in Italy. Giovina Moretti, owner she said. “Sales in September have been a little slower said. “Double-face jackets and coats have sold well, as of Milan’s high-end Gio Moretti boutiques on Via Spiga and than usual, but they’re slowly improving.” have Ermanno Scervino’s dyed furs. Real fur in fun looks, Via Turati, said that her clients gravitated to “special items, Marisa Lombardi, owner of Marisa, a designer shop as Nigel Preston’s furs and leathers, and stretch leather not basic or classic looks, perhaps because their wardrobes are Marc already full [of basics].” Jacobs’ Armand Adida, owner of jacketsjackets andand L’Eclaireur boutiques in Paris, jeansjeans areare went a step further in explaining selling well. fall’s major sellers in his four shops. “I think it’s the globaliza- tion effect of luxury,” he explained. “You can go into any high-end shop around the world and get the same thing. Shoppers are very advanced now. They travel and know what is in shops around the world. If you can’t give them something exciting, they won’t open their pocketbooks.” To wit, Adida said he has dis- continued such brands as Helmut Lang and Prada, which he stocked for years, to focus his buy on brands with smaller distribu- tion. “I want to concentrate on names like Lutz, Carpe Diem or Martin Margiela. So far, the clients have been responding pos- itively. Business has been good.” At Colette, Paris’ hip fashion and design emporium, owner Sarah Lerfel said denim has been her most important retail story for fall. “There are a lot of new and interesting washes in denim,” she said. “Women like to have a great-fitting pair of jeans to combine with more sophisti- cated pieces. It’s a cooler look.” Lerfel cited jeans from Joie and Marc Jacobs as bestsellers. Meanwhile, Lerfel said fur and ethnic themes were strong. “Lucien Pellat-Finet cashmere sweaters have also been strong. And we sold out all of the Gregory Parkinson patchwork jackets we ordered in three days. Shoppers want something different, pieces that have an individual touch.” Lerfel added that Colette, OOfferingffering something which carries Prada, Gucci and Marni earned unusual, like this Yves Saint Laurent, next season kudos from looklook fromfrom LucienLucien would widen its selection of “hard European Pellat-Finet, is to find” names. “There’s so much retailers for fall. paying off at retail. of the same thing everywhere. We have to find new names to create new excitement.” in Milan’s fashion triangle, said her customers were not from Jean Claude Jitrois, have also been moving well. Lerfel called business thus far “better than just good.” interested in “simple, classic items. We’re selling trendy, “All the high-priced brands are doing well,” he contin- Maria Luisa Poumaillou, who operates the Maria fashion-oriented pieces better. Closets are full, so peo- ued. “Price is not the most important factor at the moment.” Luisa designer boutiques in Paris, said top sellers have ple are on the lookout for special, inventive items. For Alsbrand-Eickhoff added: “August was a pretty strong been Ann Demeulemeester’s satin trousers, Balenciaga’s example, Japanese designers are notoriously more intel- month. But since the beginning of September, there’s skinny trousers and “anything by Rick Owens.” lectual and ‘more difficult,’ but they make beautiful been a bit of a downturn. We feel the mood of Sept. 11, the At Paris department store Printemps, president things that are selling very well.” [summer] floods [in Germany] and [Germany’s] upcoming Laurence Danon characterized earlier fall sales through Lombardi, however, said business has not been elections. The consumer is in a bad mood. The money’s August as strong, but slower in September. “Luxury strong. “Customers are spending less,” she said. “I still there, but customers aren’t in the mood to spend.” accessories and designer clothes, especially Alexander attribute this to a general feeling of uncertainty, stock Voelk at Quartier 206 said: “Price is not an object. In McQueen and Stella McCartney, have been strongest.” market problems and the devaluation of the dollar.” many instances, the highest-priced items are selling best.” Fur coats from Plein Sud and Joseph have performed, Moretti said quilted jackets with leather detailers, Voelk cited corduroy trousers and three-piece suits as have jeans from McQueen and Paul & Joe. Ermanno Scervino shearling coats with fur trim, retailing from Dolce & Gabbana, mink-trimmed suits from “More fantasy and color have been important,” she around $4,000, and Jimmy Choo boots were among her Valentino and denim from Seven among important sellers. said. “On the other hand, military looks from Paul Smith bestsellers. “I’ve also noticed a desire to mix and match He said that Alexander McQueen’s “empire princess and Dolce & Gabbana with a slightly feminine touch, like designer labels, to avoid a precise designer look. Jean dresses are almost sold out.” lace finishing on the pockets, have also been good.” Paul Gaultier is a success. Although his designs aren’t “We have a 22 percent increase over last year,” added Other bestsellers at Printemps include “Sergeant easy, they have something new and interesting to say. In 10 Voelk. “People want to know where they’re putting their Pepper” jackets from Marc by Marc Jacobs, Vanessa days, we’ve sold out Ann Demeulemeester’s satin and vel- money. They want quality and real design.” Bruno and DKNY. vet cargo pants.” Moretti has already reordered the latter. — Robert Murphy, with contributions from Across the street at Galeries Lafayette, Frederique “We are doing well and had a good start,” she said of Melissa Drier, Berlin, and Luisa Zargani, Milan Jeudi 10 - Dimanche 13 OCTOBRE 2002 Thursday, 10th - Sunday, 13th OCTOBER, 2002

Deux adresses de prestige / Two prestigious addresses: Terrasse des Feuillants & Carré des Sangliers [Jardin des Tuileries]

ATMOSPHÈRE D'ÉTÉ

Terrasse des Feuillants Musée Grande Pyramide du Louvre ATMOSPHÈRE D'ÉTÉ du Louvre Carré des Sangliers Avenue de l'Opéra

Pont des Arts

Rue de Rivoli Pont du Carrousel Quai du Louvre

Place de

la Concorde Quai des Tuileries Pont P de la Concorde 80 SIGNATURES DE MODE : ATMOSPHÈRE D’ÉTÉ

9BLEACH • ANDA • ANETT RÖSTEL-BERLIN • ANGELINE KINGSLEY • ANIKALENASKÄRSTRÖM • ANITSA • ANJA GOCKEL-LONDRES • ANNE WILLI • ARZU KAPROL • A.T.SHIRT • BALI BARRET • BARBARA LANG • CH.IND • CHRISTIAN TOURNAFOL • CHRISTOPHE COPPENS • DAVID FIELDEN LONDON • DJAM • ESA TORAZZI • EUNHWA • EVRIM TIMUR • FATIMA GUERROUT • FLORENCE LEVY • GAETANO NAVARRA• GAOWEI + XINZHAN • GOSSIP • HANNOH • HELENE ZUBELDIA • HIDEAKI TAHARA • HOVMAN • INTROVERTIE • INTUITIVE • IRO • JUTTA NORDHEIM • KIM BERNARDIN • KOYUKI • KRISTENSEN DU NORD • KYOKO HIGA • LA MATTA • LEBOR GABALA • MAJESTIC • MALI PARMI • MARTUCCI ROMA • MASAHIRO MIYAZAKI • MD BY… • MICHELLE LOWE-HOLDER • MIKI MIALY • NINA MEERT • NORA ATTALAI • OHYA • ONDE DE FORME • PALMACCIO • PATRICK JEDROWSKI PARIS • PETER O .MAHLER • PETROVITCH & ROBINSON • PLESNER • PRET A PARTIR • ROBERTO COLLINA • RONIT ZILKHA • RUE JACOB • RÜTZOU • SAKINA M’SA • SAMY CHALON • SEVERINE PERAUDIN • SOPHIE HONG • SPRUNG FRERES • STEFANO BARCA • SUZAN ROSE MARY • TAKASHI YOKOYAMA/ EST-CE-QUE • THANHMINH COLOGNE • T.W.L. THINGS WE LIKE • TOILETTE • TONE BARKER • TSUNODA • ÜMIT ÜNAL • VENERA ARAPU • WALTER VOULAZ • Y & KEI • YESIM CHAMBREY • YOSHI KONDO • YU FENG • Liste arrêtée au 13/09/02

www.pretparis.com SODES • 5, rue de Caumartin - 75009 PARIS - FRANCE - Tél. : +33 (0)1 44 94 70 00 \ Fax : +33 (0)1 44 94 70 05 16 Paris Designer Preview Y, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 Y, A D

N Following is the ready-to-wear show schedule. Times and locations are subject to change. Attendees are encouraged to confirm information.

O PARIS SHOW CALENDAR M

, D WEDNESDAY, OCT. 2 Ambassade de Grande-Bretagne, 12 Espace des Blancs Manteaux, 48 5 p.m.: LÉONARD, Le Carrousel du Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, 14 Rue W

W 3 p.m.: RISTO BIMBILOSKI, Espace Avenue Gabriel, 8th. Rue Vieille du Temple, 4th. Louvre, Salle Soufflot. Bonaparte, 6th. Saint Martin, 199 bis Rue Saint 2:30 p.m.: CHRISTIAN DIOR, Espace 4 p.m.: LOEWE, 56 Avenue Foch, 6 p.m.: VIKTOR & ROLF, BETC, 4:30 p.m.: JACQUES FATH, Espace Martin, 3rd. Ephémère Trocadéro, Place de 16th. 85/87 Rue du Faubourg Saint Ephémère Trocadéro, Place de 4 p.m.: VENERA ARAPU, Espace Varsovie, 16th. 5 p.m.: CÉLINE, Espace Ephémère Martin, 10th. Varsovie, 16th. Beaurepaire, 28 Rue Beaurepaire, 3:30 p.m.: MOON YOUNG HEE, Trocadéro, Place de Varsovie, 16th. 7 p.m.: JURGI PERSOONS, Union 5:30 p.m.: CLEMENTS RIBEIRO, 10th. Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, 6 p.m.: DRIES VAN NOTEN, Ecole Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, 109 Musée des Monuments Français, 5 p.m.: COLETTE DINNIGAN, Galerie 109 Rue de Rivoli, 1st. Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Rue de Rivoli, 1st. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Nikki Diana Marquardt, 9 Place de 4:30 p.m.: COMME DES GARÇONS, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th. 8:30 p.m.: ANN DEMEULE- Trocadéro, 16th. Vosges, 4th. TBA. 7 p.m.: MARC LE BIHAN, Le MEESTER, Carreau du Temple, 2/4 6:30 p.m.: ANGELO FIGUS, Union 6 p.m.: UNDERCOVER, Union 6 p.m.: COSTUME NATIONAL, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot. Rue Perrée, 3rd. Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, 109 Centrale des Arts Decoratifs, 111 Carreau du Temple, 2/4 Rue Perrée, 8 p.m.: HUSSEIN CHALAYAN, Salle 9:30 p.m.: ALEXANDER MAC Rue de Rivoli, 1st 8:00 p.m.: Rue de Rivoli, 1st. 3rd. Gaveau, 45 Rue de La Boétie, 8th. QUEEN, Salle Charlie Parker, Parc GILLES ROSIER, 6 Rue Saintonge, 7 p.m.: Y’S, Ancienne Cinematheque, 7 p.m.: A.F. VANDEVORST, Elysée 9 p.m.: VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO, de la Vilette, 19th. 3rd. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Montmartre, 72 Boulevard Elysée Montmartre, 72 Boulevard Trocadero, 16th. Rochechouart, 18th. Rochechouart, 18th. SUNDAY, OCT. 6 WEDNESDAY, OCT. 9 8 p.m.: MARTIN MARGIELA, 8:30 p.m.: ISSEY MIYAKE BY NAOKI 10 a.m.: CHLOÉ, Carreau du Temple, 9:30 a.m.: BRUUNS BAZAAR, Ecole Chaillot, Place de Varsovie par TAKIZAWA, Musée des Monuments SATURDAY, OCT. 5 2/4 Rue Perrée, 3rd. Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, Fontaines du Trocadero, 16th. Français, Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place 9 a.m.: LUCIEN PELLAT-FINET, Salle 11 a.m.: KENZO, Ecole Nationale 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th. 9 p.m.: CHRISTIAN LACROIX, TBA. du Trocadéro, 16th. Erard, 13 Rue du Mail, 2nd. Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, 14 Rue 10:30 a.m.: MARITHÉ & FRANÇOIS 10 a.m.: STELLA CADENTE, Le Bonaparte, 6th. GIRBAUD, Le Carrousel du Louvre, THURSDAY, OCT. 3 FRIDAY, OCT. 4 Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel. 12 noon: YOICHI NAGASAWA, Le Salle Le Nôtre. 9 a.m.: TORRENTE, Rond-Point des 9:30 a.m.: KEITA MARUYAMA, Le 11 a.m.: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel. 11:30 a.m.: FÉRAUD, Le Carrousel Champs-Elysées, 8th. Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel. Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre. 1:00 p.m.: MONTANA, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel. 10 a.m.: LUTZ, Union Centrale des 10:30 a.m.: LAGERFELD GALLERY, 12 noon: MARCEL MARONGIU, Le du Louvre, Salle Delorme. 12:30 p.m.: SCHERRER, Le Arts Décoratifs, 111 Rue de Rivoli, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot. 2 p.m.: GIVENCHY, Le Carrousel du Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot. 1st. Delorme. 1 p.m.: CACHAREL, Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre. 1:30 p.m.: CERRUTI, Le Carrousel du 11 a.m.: JUNYA WATANABE, Musée 11:30 a.m.: EMANUEL UNGARO, Le Louvre, Salle Delorme. 3 p.m.: HERMÈS, 24 Rue du Louvre, Salle Delorme. Bourdelle, 16 Rue Antoine Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre. 2 p.m.: ALEXANDRE HERCHCOV- Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 8th. 3 p.m.: YOSHIKI HISHINUMA, Bourdelle, 15th. 12:30 p.m.: TOM VAN LINGEN, Le ITCH, Espace des Blancs Manteaux, 4 p.m.: LANVIN, Cinémathèque, BETC, 85/87 Rue du Faubourg Saint 12 noon: ISABELLE BALLU, Centre Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot. 48 Rue Vieille du Temple, 4th. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Martin, 10th. Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, 1:30 p.m.: HELMUT LANG, 17 Rue 3:30 p.m.: BALENCIAGA, Couvent Trocadéro, 16th. 4 p.m.: JUNKO SHIMADA, Carreau 4th. Commines, 3rd. des Cordeliers, 15 Rue de l’Ecole de 5 p.m.: MARTINE SITBON, Carreau du Temple, 2/4 Rue Perrée, 3rd. 1 p.m.: SHARON WAUCHOB, 2:30 p.m.: JEAN-PAUL KNOTT, Médecine, 6th. du Temple, 2/4 Rue Perrée, 3rd. 5:30 p.m.: SEREDIN & VASILIEV, 6:30 p.m.: ATSURO TAYAMA, Salle Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 109 Rue de Rivoli, 1st. 17th. 6:30 p.m.: YUKI TORII, Le Carrousel 7:30 p.m.: JOHN GALLIANO, Théâtre du Louvre, Salle Gabriel. de l’Empire, 37 Avenue de Wagram, 8:30 p.m.: FATIMA LOPES, Le 17th. Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre. 8:30 p.m.: VÉRONIQUE LEROY, Centre Pompidou, Place Georges THURSDAY, OCT. 10 Pompidou, 4th. 10:30 a.m.: RIAD, 4 Place Saint- Germain des Prés, 6th. MONDAY, OCT. 7 11:30 a.m.: LIE SANG BONG, Le 9:45 a.m.: STELLA McCARTNEY, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel. Palais Brongniart, Place de la 12:30 p.m.: OHYA, Le Carrousel du Bourse, 2nd. Louvre, Salle Soufflot. 11 a.m.: PACO RABANNE, Le 1:30 p.m.: ANN HUYBENS, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme. Passerelle de Solferino, Quai des 12 noon: BALMAIN, Le Carrousel du Tuileries, 1st. Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre. 2:30 p.m.: KOJI NIHOMATSU, La 1 p.m.: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, Scala, 188 bis Rue de Rivoli, 1st. Espace Ephémère Trocadéro, Place 3:30 p.m.: MIWHA HONG, Ecole de Varsovie, 16th. Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts 2 p.m.: LOUIS VUITTON, Serre du , 13 Quai Malaquais, 6th. Parc André Citroën, Rue de la 4:30 p.m.: MARIA GRACHVOGEL, Le Montaigne de la Fage, 15th. Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot. 3 p.m.: GASPARD YURKIEVICH, 5:30 p.m.: AGATHA RUIZ DE LA Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, PRADA, Le Carrousel du Louvre, 109 Rue de Rivoli, 1st. Salle Gabriel. 4 p.m.: ISABEL MARANT, Espace 7 p.m.: LEE YOUNG HEE, Jardin de des Blancs Manteaux, 48 Rue Vieille l’Ambassade de Corée, 125 Rue de du Temple, 4th. Grenelle, 7th. 5 p.m.: SONIA RYKIEL, Carreau du 8 p.m.: WALTER RODRIGUEZ, Temple, 2/4 Rue Perrée, 3rd. Ambassade du Brésil, 34 Cours 6:30 p.m.: ROMEO GIGLI, Albert 1er, 8th. Cinémathèque, Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadéro, 16th. FRIDAY, OCT. 11 7:30 p.m.: YVES SAINT LAURENT 11 a.m.: KATHERINE PRADEAU, Le RIVE GAUCHE, Musée Rodin, 77 Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel. Rue Varenne, 7th. 12 noon: KARIM TASSI, Le Carrousel 8:30 p.m.: DIRK BIKKEMBERGS, du Louvre, Salle Soufflot. Salle Wagram, 39 Avenue de 1 p.m.: ENZU VAN, Union Centrale Wagram, 17th. des Arts Décoratifs, 109 Rue de Rivoli, 1st. TUESDAY, OCT. 8 2 p.m.: GIOVANNI BEDIN, Union 10 a.m.: VALENTINO, Le Carrousel Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, 109 du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre. Rue de Rivoli, 1st. 11 a.m.: ANDREW GN, Le Carrousel 3 p.m.: JEAN-LUC AMSLER, Le du Louvre, Salle Soufflot. Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel. 12 noon: CHANEL, Le Carrousel du 4 p.m.: IMPASSE DE LA DEFENSE, Louvre, Salle Delorme/Salle Gabriel. Le Carrousel du Louvre, Salle 1 p.m.: JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTEL- Soufflot. BAJAC, Union Centrale des Arts 5 p.m.: CODE BY, Centre Culturel Décoratifs, 109 Rue de Rivoli, 1st. Suédois, 11 Rue Payenne, 3rd. 2 p.m.: DICE KAYEK, Le Carrousel du 6 p.m.: ASKA, Hôtel Clarion Saint Louvre, Salle Soufflot. James & Albany, 202 Rue de Rivoli, 3:30 p.m.: ZUCCA, Ecole Nationale 1st. 70 exhibitors included 30 international selection: and French mureil guyot tel 06 07 05 40 05 email: [email protected] new names organisation: COMEXPO Paris tel 33 1 49 09 60 36 fax 33 1 49 09 61 06 COMEXPO Paris 2002 18 Accessories Report Birks Creates Blueprint for Mayor’s By Brian Dunn and Melanie Kletter

MONTREAL — Henry Birks & Sons, one of Canada’s most ven- MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 MONDAY,

, erable and best-known jewelry D chains, has faced many chal- W lenges in its 123-year history, but W the retailer is now tackling one if its toughest assignments yet in turning around Mayor’s Jewelers. Birks, based here, assumed majority control of the troubled jewelry chain last month and is working to make the company profitable and more approach- able, and at the same time build its own business in the U.S. “There are limited opportu- nities to expand in Canada,” Birks president and chief execu- tive officer Thomas Andrus- kevich said in an interview. “In time, we will assess other op- portunities in the U.S., as well as other markets.” Andruskevich, who also

holds the title of chief executive PHOTOSRE GALBRAITH ROBERT BY O T S

officer at Mayor’s, is working Mayor’s has shed many of its watch S K

with executives at Mayor’s on an TThehe MontrealMontreal flagshipflagship ofof CanadianCanadian jewelerjeweler HenryHenry BirksBirks && Sons,Sons, whichwhich isis workingworking toto turnturn Mayor’sMayor’s JewelersJewelers around.around. R I aggressive plan to reverse the brands, but Rolex remains. B chain’s slide with a blueprint want to build their private label that has worked at Birks, which program, which has higher mar- We are more interested in focusing was in bankruptcy itself in the gins and which currently repre- early Nineties and was also a sents only 15 to 20 percent of “on perceived value and carrying more family-owned company for sev- their business, compared with eral generations. 75 percent at Birks.” classic, basic stock. The strategy includes putting Aida Alvarez, Mayor’s vice ” an automatic replenishing pro- president of merchandising, said — Aida Alvarez, Mayor’s Jewelers gram into place and remerchan- the chain’s opening price point is dising the stores to cover a about $95 for gold earrings, and including Rolex, Roberto Coin, Birks continued to close stores wider variety of price points. the average price point has come Cartier and Omega. and in 1993, the firm filed for Mayor’s, based in Sunrise, Fla. down to about $1,200 to $1,500 This is not Birks’ first at- bankruptcy protection. That same had sales of about $164 million from around $1,800 to $2,000. tempt to gain a toehold in the year, it was saved by Borgosesia, last year and now has 28 stores, “We are more interested in U.S. market. The last time near- now called Regaluxe, which re- after scaling back and closing focusing on perceived value and ly sank the company, which is portedly bought the company for about a dozen locations in the carrying more classic, basic one of Canada’s largest fine-jew- $75 million. Andruskevich was last few months. As part of its stock,” said Alvarez, who noted elry chains with 37 stores. brought in three years later to growth plan, the company has that executives plan for the Like many Canadian retail- turn the company around. dramatically reduced its watch chain to return to profitability ers, the allure of the American Since his arrival, Birks, which offerings to 14, about half of the in about two years. retail market, which is more is privately held, has developed number of brands it had been of- Most of Mayor’s upper man- Thomas Andruskevich is overseeing than 10 times the size of Canada, a new financial structure and fering, and has upped its selec- agement, including Alvarez and Mayor’s turnaround plans. was too tempting for Birks to ig- merchandise plan focused on tion of jewelry. All of the remain- Al Rahm, vice president of sales, nore. Until 1993, when it was bridal, pearl and diamond jewel- ing Mayor’s stores will operate are still in place. However, to Andruskevich, who joined the sold to Regaluxe S.A. of Italy ry, as well as baby gifts and under the Mayor’s nameplate. Joseph Cicio, who had been company in 1996 when Birks it- after filing for bankruptcy pro- watches. It has also renovated “On the creative side, brought in as ceo in May, was let self was facing an uncertain fu- tection, Birks had been privately many of its stores, and has Mayor’s is a stronger watch go in August when Birks assumed ture. Birks swept in this summer owned by the Birks family for worked to improve communica- house, while Birks is stronger in control, and his duties have been and paid $15 million for a con- five generations. tions with its customers and tar- the bridal business, and we see taken over by Andruskevich. trolling interest to rescue Henry Birks opened the first get a younger clientele through an untapped opportunity to de- While Mayor’s wasn’t the first Mayor’s, which had suffered store in 1879 in Montreal, and new advertising campaigns. velop their bridal jewelry,” American chain Birks had its eye from a host of financial and for the next 22 years, Birks re- In the meantime, Birks has Andruskevich said. “We also on, it was the best fit, according other problems in recent years. mained a one-store operation. almost doubled its sales since “The fact that Mayor’s is But when the next generation 1996 and now has an estimated based in Florida was a plus,” he took over, a period of rapid ex- 3.2 percent share of Canada’s $2 said. “We did a study three years pansion ensued, with new stores billion fragmented fine jewelry ago to identify the four main opening in 15 Canadian cities market, excluding watches. Now markets where the Birks name between 1901 and 1949. that Birks appears to have all of had the highest level of aware- When Drummond Birks took its ducks in a row, what makes ness. Florida came out on top, over in 1972, the expansion con- Andruskevich think the jeweler followed by Arizona, Boston and tinued, this time through acqui- can make a go of it the second MADISON Seattle, because a lot of sitions across Canada. Then the time around in the U.S.? Canadian snowbirds spend the company set its sights on the “This time is different,” he LEATHERS winter there and Mayor’s has a American market, snapping up said. “Birks never tried to inte- lot of Canadian customers.” Shreve, Crump & Low and the grate its U.S. operations before. There were a number of rea- Thomas Long Co., both of Now, Birks and Mayor’s will
   
  sons why Mayor’s got into finan- Boston; the Schwarzschild Bros. have a common merchandising 

 cial difficulties, resulting in a loss of Richmond, Va., and the jewel- strategy. Before, Birks expanded of $54.7 million in last year’s ry division of Dayton-Hudson too quickly across the U.S. We’re  
  fourth quarter, noted Andrus- Corp. in several U.S. cities. focusing on two core markets 
 
kevich, who formerly worked at By the late-Eighties, Birks was where marketing dollars will go  !"# !$   %# Tiffany & Co., as well as Mondi. at the height of its glory with a lot farther.” Mayor’s was acquired by Jan Bell 4,500 employees in 220 stores — He also pointed out that


 Marketing in 1998, which re- 133 in the U.S. and 87 in Canada Birks has come full circle. It was named itself Mayor’s, and the — and annual sales of $400 mil- saved by a white knight, and now    
 company overextended itself by lion. But then the company began it is attempting to be the white rapidly opening new units outside to experience some tough times, knight. Will history repeat itself? &#' %!$()!* +, !-.  ( of its core Florida market. and Birks was forced to shutter “We like to think there will /01234 Nonetheless, Birks, which some of its unprofitable stores. be a happy ending to this story,” 5164513 now has sales of around $64 mil- By then, the company was said Andruskevich. “We’ve cre- 0&&3 7163 lion, sees plenty of opportunity being run by Drummond Birks’ ated the first step to get them on in Mayor’s, which was founded three sons: Jonathan, Tom and solid financial footing. Maybe in 1910 and is known for carrying Barrie. Eventually, Jonathan we’ll write the final chapter &% (8. #98/ 8  !$* some of the best and most exclu- bought his brothers out in 1990 when we’ve turn Mayor’s into a sive jewelry and watch brands, for $100 million. profitable company.” 19 Innerwear Report MONDAY,WWD, 2002 30, SEPTEMBER Saks Lingerie: New Life on Nine

By Karyn Monget extremely successful,” said Caetano. “This room is making its mark. The NEW YORK — Everything is new when it whole contemporary business is such comes to lingerie at the Saks Fifth Avenue an emerging category at Saks. One thing flagship here: a new location; a fresh con- we’ve heard from customers and sales temporary look, and a new divisional mer- associates is they didn’t realize we had chandise manager, Anne Caetano. this category at Saks. New product Unveiled in late August, the new arrives daily and we have the flexibility ninth-floor area for foundations, day- of moving merchandise around because wear, sleepwear and at-homewear takes it’s multivendor.” up 11,435 square feet, about the same Regarding the customer profile for square footage of its former home on the contemporary items, Caetano said: eighth level. Intimate apparel also “She’s brand-conscious, but she’s look- shares real estate with hosiery, which is ing for the look and buys into the ensconced in 950 square feet at the back image. She wants dual-purpose items, of the department. Formerly on the A selection of Christian Dior’s Saks’ new innerwear that can also be outerwear.” ninth floor were coats and swimwear, contemporary bustiers. contemporary area. Caetano said foundations and day- which are now housed on the eighth wear by La Perla, which she called level. Petites continue to be on nine. “our crown jewel,” was specifically Caetano, who was named dmm of inti- housed in a separate boutique environ- mate apparel and hosiery in July, said the ment to achieve a “designer effect.” department reflects a fresh, modern “The La Perla room is very shallow image for established Saks customers who and long like a runway. You can see all shop for sophisticated lingerie, as well as of the merchandise that way,” said items that have a hip, edgier look for a new Caetano, noting that Saks will introduce generation of younger Saks shoppers. daywear by Malitzia in November, a sec- The move is apparently clicking for ondary label produced by Bologna, lingerie, according to Caetano. Italy-based Gruppo La Perla. “All of our [lingerie] businesses are Caetano also outlined other areas experiencing double-digit increases, within the sprawling lingerie depart- some above 28 percent. It has a lot to do ment, which house several foundation with the new layout,” she said. “In the brands she described as generating lots past, there was an imbalance of the busi- of business: Chantelle, Wacoal, Donna ness trend, where we saw foundations Karan Intimates, Natori, Rigby & Peller outperform sleepwear. Now, we’re start- and Le Mystere. ing to see sleepwear pick up.” “Hanro [daywear and sleepwear] is “We are exceeding our season plan by looking very strong and it’s much more 10 percent in New York, based on the updated,” said Caetano. “We’ll be stag- season trend. Contemporary [lingerie] ing a Hanro retrospective on Oct. 7 with business is up 65 percent against a year vintage pieces.” ago on an average.” The Hanro promotion, which runs The new layout is highlighted by pale through Oct. 13, will feature 25 Hanro marble floors and wide aisles that wind originals in vitrines along the perime- around a number of spacious, uncluttered ter of the lingerie floor. A gift bag con- environments. The department is seam- taining a free lingerie bag from Hanro, lessly segmented into areas dedicated to bath beads and the WWD Intimates young contemporary, fashion-forward and Stephen D’Urso, Michelle White and Anne Caetano. Clairvoyant Laura Bushnell. magazine will be given to the first 100 traditional fare, and a boutique setting for customers at the event. the luxury Italian label La Perla. Other events will include a Donna Generating the most interest is a con- Karan Body Spa promotion on Oct. 23 to temporary area that started out as an 25, which will highlight the new line of experiment and has proven to be a suc- yoga-inspired separates by Donna cess, said Caetano. Instead of merchan- Karan Intimates. “Wellness Day” events dising goods by specific category, the include a massage therapist and yoga new 1,720-square-foot area showcases a instruction. A promotion for the new mix of categories, including sleepwear; Wacoal Touch microfiber intimates will bras and panties; bustiers; daywear run through this Sunday. items such as bodysuits, camis and slips, Michelle White, manager of founda- and at-homewear separates. There are tions at Saks, noted that a recent book- some 17 brands representing the various signing event featuring clairvoyant classifications, with many featured in Laura Bushnell with her book “You Are A multiple categories. Rose,” sparked a lot of customer interest. The diversity of brands include: Prin- “Her whole concept is about beauty, cesse Tam Tam, Christian Dior, Occhi and it was a great tie-in with lingerie and Verdi, Chantal Thomass, Burberry’s, beauty from the inside out,” White said. Eres, Mossimo, Escada, Samantha Chang, Regarding the pace of traffic on the Frances Smily, Chiaruggi, Bella Sera, ninth floor, Stephen D’Urso, director of Leigh Bantivoglio, Lejaby, Aubade, Lise intimate apparel, hosiery and acces- Charmel, Josie and Natori. sories at Saks, said: “It’s taking a little “We wanted to create an entirely new while to adjust. But the employee cafe- concept, a lifestyle environment for con- The La Perla boutique teria is on nine and sales associates see temporary foundations, daywear and at the Saks flagship. the lingerie and suggest it to their cus- sleepwear in one area, and it’s been tomers. It’s been very busy.”

served as vice president of merchandising at teams of Warner’s and Olga because they are firm in 1978. Specialty Intimates, a former unit of Sara Lee two distinctly different brands.” Darmante, who has been at the Biflex INTIMATE NOTES Intimate Apparel, as well as merchandising Warnaco, which filed for Chapter 11 company for 22 years, most recently was and design posts at Ithaca Industries and bankruptcy in June 2001, is due to file its executive vice president of Biflex. Prior to WARNACO NAMES BARAN: Joyce Baran has Warnaco in the 1980s. reorganization plan today. Wyatt said, “We are Kellwood’s acquisition of Biflex in 2000, he been appointed vice president of creative In other developments at Warnaco, Gwen extremely proud of what has been was executive vice president of manufacturing. design for the Warner’s, Olga and Widell, senior vice president of merchandising accomplished here since filing for He reports to James Mogan, president of Bodyslimmers intimate apparel businesses at and product development for Warnaco Intimate bankruptcy.” Kellwood’s intimate apparel operation. The Warnaco Group. Apparel, has left the company after a 15-year A new ceo at Biflex will not be named, Baran was formerly vice president of career at Warnaco. Widell’s plans could not be KELLWOOD TAPS DARMANTE: Michael Darmante according to a Kellwood spokeswoman. She merchandising and design at the licensed Liz learned. has been promoted to president of the Biflex said, “The business will continue the way the Claiborne Intimates unit of Jockey Tom Wyatt, president of the Warnaco International Inc. division of Kellwood Co. Darmantes created it. We plan to take it to the International since August 2000. She reports Intimate Apparel Group, overseeing all brands Darmante succeeds his brother, Dale, a 24- next level.” to David Clark, president of Warnaco in that sector, said: “We plan to name a year veteran of Biflex, who will retire Oct. 31. Biflex is known for innovative product design Intimates, overseeing the trio of brands. successor. We also plan to realign the structure Also retiring will be their father, Frank, chief and speed to market for private label bras. The Baran, a shapewear specialist in the intimate of the intimates businesses, and will be executive officer of Biflex, who has been with firm also produces a licensed collection of bras apparel industry for more than 20 years, also looking at differentiating the design talent and the company since 1972 and purchased the under the Oscar de la Renta brand. PHOTOS BY DAN D’ERRICO DAN BY PHOTOS 20 Financial Weekly Stock Index Tougher Terms for Kmart’s Vendors 52-Week Sales Amt High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change Continued from page 2 decides to liquidate. last week. In the past 18 months, Department Stores Merchant Factors Corp., whose A private label apparel manu- the retailer has seen its market refactoring firm is not exposed facturer here said: “There’s defi- capitalization erode 95 percent. 5.28 1.87 Bon-Ton Stores 7.6 1122 4.20 -0.20 to any Kmart liabilities, ob- nite concern. We’re luckier than On March 2, 2001, Kmart’s market 31.20 12.55 Dillard Dept. 14.8 36270 21.45 -3.14 served that even powerhouse some because even though Kmart cap stood at $4.5 billion. As of 44.26 26.20 Federated 12.2 106838 31.17 -3.62 Wal-Mart has seen sales come in is a large account, we also sell to Wednesday, its market cap was 3.88 1.79 Gottschalk's 7.7 1350 1.90 -0.07 at the low end of expectations. Wal-Mart, although we are finding around $231.1 million. 27.88 14.50 J.C. Penney 28.7 115708 17.60 -0.66 “That is significant to me,” he it hard to get in the door at some By contrast, Stein Mart, with said. “If Wal-Mart is saying that, of the other retailers. Some in our sales of $1.3 billion last year ver- 78.83 46.01 Kohl's Dept. Store 39.8 168630 64.09 -5.46

WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, then you can expect [sales] to industry have Kmart as their sus Kmart’s $36.2 billion last year, 38.86 23.20 May Dept. Stores 11.5 74795 23.26 -2.68 lower for everyone. The econom- largest account. If that account is had a market cap of $252.8 million. 15.75 4.60 Saks 52.5 37920 10.99 -0.48 ic conditions make it exception- lost, there is no way those firms From a per-store perspective, 59.90 33.55 Sears 12.7 164150 40.62 -4.19 ally difficult for Kmart. Stores can make up the business.” Kmart’s market value is less 46.15 28.80 Target 20.1 282527 31.91 -1.75 could be in for some rough sled- The division head of a factor- than that of the goods on its ding over the next few months.” ing arm in New York told WWD: shelves. The retailer’s market Discounters Kaye added that if the macro- “Overall, there is a major concern cap per store in March of 2001 economic picture doesn’t im- that the losses in the stock market was $1.8 billion. Last Wednesday, 37.25 25.00 Family Dollar 23.7 41020 28.88 0.93 prove, and shoppers elect to will continue throughout the it was about $109,000 per store. 8.12 0.38 Kmart - 162573 0.49 -0.02 save their hard-earned cash, fourth quarter, along with more Even some industry ob- 63.94 43.72 Wal-Mart 32.6 507706 51.24 -3.46 times will be particularly tough layoffs and a dramatic slowdown servers aren’t hopeful about for distressed retailers. in consumer shopping patterns. Kmart’s prospects. Off-Price Retailers The assessment so far among The impact of those factors, and Retail consultant Maggie 2.65 0.55 Bluefly - 384 0.85 -0.11 factors is that Kmart will be fine the unknowns such as a war with Gilliam, in her September re- through at least December be- Iraq, will have a devastating im- port on the state of retailing, 23.50 13.50 Burlington Coat 12.7 2025 18.82 -0.18 cause the Troy, Mich.-based dis- pact on retail sales. There is defi- said on the record what many 44.00 26.60 Ross Stores 16.6 44809 36.96 -2.54 counter still has “lots of cash in nite concern about spring 2003.” factors and creditors have told 7.80 4.76 Syms - 961 6.86 0.14 the bank.” As of Aug. 28, Kmart Alan Melamed, a credit analyst WWD privately of their con- 22.45 15.11 TJX 17.9 201205 18.15 -1.95 had $832 million in cash and at Alan M. Melamed Associates, cerns over Kmart’s future. 6.45 1.75 Value City - 2564 1.90 0.05 cash equivalents, according to a said: “We’re telling clients that Gilliam wrote: “The company filing with the Securities and Kmart is not doing well. While we recently asked for additional Apparel Specialty Stores Exchange Commission. are not making any recommenda- [debtor-in-possession] financing, Looking ahead, financial serv- tions either for or against the re- but then rescinded the request 33.19 14.07 Ann Taylor 21.6 30841 24.37 -0.95 ices executives wonder whether tailer, we are telling clients to after it raised eyebrows about the 9.14 4.48 Charming Shoppes 70.5 41177 6.86 -0.30 suppliers will feel confident carefully review the documents company’s viability. We frankly 17.50 9.65 Dress Barn 15.2 12621 15.65 0.22 enough in the next few weeks to filed in the administration of its have been puzzled by the appar- 17.95 8.90 Foot Locker 10.7 52113 10.12 -0.12 put spring 2003 work orders into bankruptcy case.” ent inaction of Kmart in Chapter 17.14 9.10 The Gap - 195948 11.56 -0.85 the pipeline. Those decisions will Kmart officials have said in 11. Except for the occasional have to be made against a back- the past that they hope to exit shows of publicity, we have seen 22.34 9.21 The Limited 17.1 97985 15.15 -0.83 drop of uncertainty: Will con- Chapter 11 by July of next year. no indication of any meaningful 39.80 23.53 Neiman Marcus Grp. 14.6 4237 28.85 -2.12 sumer confidence continue to However, after nine months strategy or a line-up of people 26.87 13.80 Nordstrom32.6 26947 19.35 -1.25 drop? Will holiday sales be chilli- in bankruptcy, the retailer has- who can get the company moving. 41.50 22.02 Talbots 15.2 16309 29.89 -2.87 er than Frosty the Snowman? n’t shown any ability to stem the “Moreover, we’ve still seen no Will factors even be checking flow of red ink. Over the past rationalization of the real estate, Apparel Manufacturers Kmart at yearend? four quarters, Kmart has lost despite an earlier store closure 40.00 19.95 Columbia Sportswear 16.0 6564 36.30 -0.17 Vendors in similar situations $3.6 billion, with more than half policy related to bottom line [re- risk tying up their cash by as- of its losses occurring since the sults], irrespective of individual 8.49 4.75 G-III - 477 5.99 -0.09 suming manufacturing and pro- retailer filed for bankruptcy store or market potential,” she 99.45 81.05 Gucci 31.1 29934 84.77 0.52 cessing costs without any guar- protection in late January. continued. “Reportedly, more 9.35 4.65 Guess - 309 4.70 -0.29 antees from their financiers re- In addition, Kmart shares stores are to be closed. According 41.68 24.30 Jones Apparel 18.1 117580 31.26 -5.04 garding the purchase of receiv- have continued to flounder to our observations, Kmart is dig- 32.50 17.30 Kellwood 23.8 6752 23.20 -1.30 ables. They could then end up around the company’s 52-week ging itself into a deeper hole.” 32.46 18.00 Liz Claiborne 13.3 51643 25.81 -2.21 stuck with inventory if orders low of 38 cents, although it moved — With contributions from get canceled or if the retailer higher — into the 49-cent range — Arthur Zaczkiewicz 30.25 19.50 Oxford 14.3 878 22.26 1.99 16.46 8.32 Phillips-Van Heusen 15.8 4381 12.91 0.53 30.82 17.73 Polo Ralph Lauren 14.3 13052 20.85 -1.82 19.55 11.02 Russell Corp. 9.1 2600 15.08 -0.52 6.50 2.76 Tarrant Apparel - 180 4.95 -0.05 16.65 8.35 Tommy Hilfiger 6.3 29304 9.56 -0.90 Warnaco Reports $857.8M Loss 29.55 14.00 Tropical Sportswear 55.1 1707 14.25 -2.21 45.64 28.15 VF Corp. 28.1 20450 37.40 -1.72 NEW YORK — Bankrupt Warn- million; Chaps by Ralph Lauren Warnaco spokesman said the re- aco Group, which is still on dropped 25.2 percent to $32.6 organization plan does address Textile Mills course to file its plan of reor- million; Calvin Klein Jeans/Kids resolution of the Speedo claims, 4.45 1.25 Cone Mills - 1451 2.23 -0.08 ganization with the bankruptcy dipped 11.3 percent to $79.2 mil- but declined further comment. 4.48 1.40 Delta Woodside - 93 3.38 0.02 court in Manhattan later today, lion, and Calvin Klein Access- Still pending in Manhattan fed- 0.75 0.04 Galey & Lord - 415 0.04 -0.01 on Friday reported a quarterly ories slipped 15.3 percent to $3.4 eral court is a shareholder class- loss of nearly $860 million. million. The declines reflect ei- action suit, a result of the consoli- 0.99 0.07 Guilford Mills - 3013 0.25 0.01 According to its quarterly re- ther the elimination of sales to dation of six such complaints filed 11.66 6.03 Unifi - 5426 6.28 -0.30 port filed with the Securities and membership clubs (Chaps), re- between Aug. 22 and Oct. 26, 2000. Exchange Commission, net losses ductions in sales to off-pricers The apparel firm also filed a Cosmetics for the three months ended April (Calvin Klein Jeans/Kids) or Form 8-K detailing monthly op- 57.91 37.35 Alberto Culver 22.2 13828 49.48 -0.45 6 widened to $857.8 million, or other strategic decisions under- erations for the two periods 57.10 43.07 Avon 24.7 69042 47.22 -0.85 $16.20 a diluted share, compared taken by Warnaco. The one bright from May 5 through June 1 and with a $63.6 million loss, or $1.20, spot was ABS, which saw an in- July 7 through Aug. 3. In May, 38.80 25.80 Estee Lauder 38.9 57264 30.25 -0.05 in the year-ago period. crease in quarterly sales of 8.2 the company posted a $10.2 mil- 7.35 3.05 Revlon - 1552 3.32 0.10 Revenues fell 17.9 percent to percent to $9.2 million. lion loss on sales of $91.6 mil- $410.1 million from $499.2 mil- In intimates, the Warner’s and lion. For July, the loss was $2 Accessories lion. Sportswear and swimwear Olga brands were up 5.5 percent million on sales of $84.6 million. 24.61 9.47 Fossil 19.5 10757 20.35 -0.98 revenues dropped 18.7 percent to to $58.5 million, while Calvin — Vicki M. Young 25.20 14.76 Movado 10.9 1101 16.10 -0.63 $236.9 million, while intimate ap- Klein Underwear sales dipped parel sales declined 11.5 percent by 0.8 percent to $52.8 million. Biggest Percentage Changes to $144.2 million. Sales at its retail The company also said that WWDStock Market Index for Week Ending September 27 stores were $29 million, plummet- the claims by Speedo Inter- For Week Ending September 27 ing by 35.4 percent in the quarter, national Ltd. in its September Gainers Close Change mostly because of the reduction 2000 lawsuit filed in Manhattan Oxford 22.26 9.82 Apparel Mfg.: 157.01 Retailers: 252.69 Textiles: 10.85 in outlet stores and a same-store federal court would likely be re- Phillips-Van Heusen 12.91 4.28 sales decline of 9 percent. solved through the bankruptcy Guilford Mills 0.25 4.17 The company reported $1.1 bil- court “in the context of assump- Family Dollar 28.88 3.33 -7.94 -17.45 -0.47 lion in assets and $312.4 million in tion or rejection of the Speedo Revlon 3.32 3.11 liabilities. Professional fees in the licenses or the confirmation of Losers Close Change Department Stores 190.84 -15.24 quarter were $7.2 million. the company’s plan or plans of Galey & Lord 0.04 -20.00 Off-Pricers 306.13 -28.00 The filing reported that sales reorganization.” Jones Apparel 31.26 -13.88 Discounters 338.84 -22.14 fell almost across the board in all The lawsuit, filed against Tropical Sportswear 14.25 -13.43 Specialty Stores 98.40 -5.79 sportswear and swimwear cate- Warnaco, sought the termination Dillard Dept. 21.45 -12.77 gories: Authentic Fitness sales of certain licensing arrange- Bluefly 0.85 -11.46 Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices of Dec. 31, 1993. were down 23 percent to $112.6 ments in addition to damages. A 21 Hot Target Faces Cooler Days MONDAY,WWD, 2002 30, SEPTEMBER

Continued from page one Storch noted of Wal-Mart, “We’re fierce in sales of $1.5 billion in the U.K. apparel shoppers polled described them that continues to get better, as well as bigger. competitors. We’re locked into a very Eberts noted, “Clearly, their launch of as being on-trend. Most retailers score The firm has been a juggernaut in the heavy battle in our marketplace, and we George, if it’s successful, will have an im- on-trend percentage ratings in the 20s or last few years, but there are signs it may be want to win.” Price is an important ele- pact on everybody who sells apparel. If low 30s. “To some extent, it may be a mat- heading for somewhat slower growth. For ment of this confrontation. “If we’re in the Target is unable to maintain their differ- ter of ‘on-trend and I can afford to buy five years, through the end of fiscal 2001, business of selling the same stuff that the entiated look, competition with Wal-Mart there,’” he noted. the Target division drove revenues up 60.5 guy down the street has, we’re not going to would be much more difficult, but we ex- Customers, he said, “don’t look at Wal- percent to $32.59 billion, while its pretax be able to sell it for more. I don’t care how pect that they will be able to maintain that Mart as much of an apparel store. The profits shot up 97.8 percent to $2.55 billion. big the store is or what it looks like,” sum- differentiation.” Target customer is very apparel-focused, J.P. Morgan Securities analyst Shari ming up Target’s overall strategy in all Analysts also noted that Wal-Mart, with much more than their two [discount] Schwartzman Eberts said, “Target still has product categories. its emphasis on basics and philosophy of counterparts because that’s what Target a lot of growth in its core discount store So far, Target has been successfully always stressing the lowest-possible price, stands for.” format. Clearly, it’s concerning that a large compensating for what it lacks in size with isn’t attempting to compete head-to-head This speaks volumes for Target’s abili- portion of its growth over time comes from a formula that combines low prices with a with Target on apparel. The two firms re- ty to create an image in its customers’ lower-return businesses like credit cards panache that at times verges on the kitsch. portedly overlap in about 70 percent of minds, a skill enhanced by the kind of and SuperTarget. I’m not willing to de- It’s one reason the firm’s name is some- their markets. eye-catching advertising not usually asso- clare the end of growth at Target, but times pronounced by the fashionable in a The two firms also cater to different ciated with discounters. Now, as with any clearly the growth vehicles that they are faux French accent as Tar-jay. These high- customers. While Wal-Mart would not pro- good performer, the toughest act may be emphasizing are lower return.” er-income consumers generally don’t shop vide such data, Target, on its Web site, said following itself. The Target bulls inhabiting Wall Street at discounters, but find Target palatable, the median age of its customer was 44 with Mike Toth of Toth Brand Imaging laid may just be finding themselves less enam- given such apparel offerings as Mossimo, a household income of approximately out three crucial elements of any brand- ored with the firm. In the last week-and-a- Cherokee, Stephen Sprouse and, more re- $51,000. The vast majority, or 80 percent, of ing strategy: communicating the brand half, Goldman Sachs & Co. and US cently, Liz Lange with a maternity collec- the discounter’s customer base is female, message, having an appropriate culture Bancorp Piper Jaffray pulled down their tion set to hit stores late this year. Todd 43 percent of whom have children at within the company and branding the ex- ratings on the retailer citing, in part, weak Oldham, Philippe Starck and Michael home. About 39 percent of Target’s cus- perience with the customer. September comparable-store sales trends. Graves give the company’s home offerings tomers have completed college. On the first two points, Toth gave Ladenburg, Thalmann & Co. analyst their designer flair, and Eddie Bauer and The Census Bureau reported last Target high marks — with special praise Eric Beder noted, “With the comparison Woolrich add to its home assortment, as week that the median household income for its advertising prowess — but on the getting much more difficult going forward third element of branding, he said he was- with comps — that haven’t been that n’t sure if they’ve perfected their message strong over the last two months — I’m not at retail. “It looks just like another mass sure how much longer they are going to box and I think they need to spend some remain a darling of the industry. If they time on what kind of experience they can [post comps at above] 2 to 4 percent, want the customer to have.” they are really showing something posi- With its chicness, he said, Target’s tive. I don’t think people are expecting it, given consumers “permission” to go to and I don’t think they’re planning it.” the discounter, but the question remains As the unfriendly back-to-school season whether the shopping experience lives demonstrated, Target is not alone with its up to that image. less-than-robust top line, as sales trends in “They’ve been incredibly courageous the discount sector and all of retailing have and brave doing what they’re doing, but been difficult in recent months. Profits they still need to follow through,” he said. have been strained as well, and not just in “They’re in the second inning. The ads are the lower-tier sectors of retailing. Luxury really cool, but when you get into the store, stalwart Gucci Group last week reported I just don’t feel the hipness, coolness and that its net profits fell 55.1 percent in the all that stuff. So I think that the promise is second quarter. This came on top of a 42.2 a little bit unfulfilled.” percent drop in the preceding quarter. Toth added: “It’s important to be your- In its attempts to stay above the fray self and, if Target is cool, then they have and maintain its growth, Target’s touch- to keep being cool and that’s a tough one stone has been differentiation. to play. You’re going to recruit the coolest, Calls to Target seeking comment were most innovative people in the world and not returned. Stephen Sprouse is among the designers who have given Target a distinct fashion edge. you have to keep it going and keep it In the end, fashion and style, through fresh. They’re going to be on that edge its many designer offerings, may be all and they’re going to have to stay there that stands between Target and its much- well. As was recently confirmed, Cynthia in the U.S. declined 2.2 percent in real and walk that line.” larger competitor Wal-Mart. Higher-end Rowley will also offer a collection of terms in 2001 to $42,000. Marc Gobe, president of New York fashion, however, has not escaped Wal- home products called Swell. Details on Ladenburg’s Beder, who noted that the brand consultancy firm Desgrippes Gobe Mart’s notice as the firm’s focus on ap- the line itself are still sketchy, but sources median income of Kmart’s customers, be- and author of “Emotional Branding,” parel has increased. And where once the indicated the lifestyle collection will in- fore the firm entered Chapter 11 in Janu- noted, “What Target has going, which is focus for the two discounters was more clude everything from carpets to com- ary, was $42,000, estimated the median an- something that the department stores have in basics and commodity products, ap- forters and will bow in the spring. Also, nual income of Wal-Mart’s customers at forgotten to do, is that they’ve brought ex- parel has now become an important front word has it the firm is pitching designer- $35,000 to $40,000. Of course, Wal-Mart’s clusivity. If you go to department stores you in the war for market share between the cum-talk-show-host Isaac Mizrahi to cre- greater number of stores means it cap- see the same brands everywhere. It’s a sea two firms. Ultimately, fashion could ate an accessories collection. tures both more of the middle- and low-in- of sameness. People know what they will prove to be the major differentiator since Estimates place sales of Target’s total come customer than Target does. get. Emotionally, they know that they’ll find most of their other products — from food designer offerings at around 15 percent of Retail consultant Walter Loeb pointed innovation and stuff they will not find any- to beauty to lawnmowers — are from what the discounter rings up at the regis- out, “In order to distinguish themselves where else, and that’s very exciting.” mostly the same brands. ter. This makes for revenues of about $4.9 from Wal-Mart, their chief competitor or Designer Mark Montano sees Target’s Certainly, the Target-versus-Wal-Mart billion from the discounter’s signature of- Kohl’s, a strong competitor, Target has to strategy of differentiation as a positive for duel is not a battle for sheer size, though ferings for the year ended Feb. 2. Total continue in the mode of having some- the design set. “What you find now is, be- both firms qualify as giants. Target has sales for the company, including credit thing very special that the consumer cause style has been shoved down every- 1,107 discount stores across 47 states, in- card revenues as well as the Mervyn’s and can’t get anywhere else.” body’s throats for so long, there aren’t a lot cluding 82 grocery-hybrid SuperTargets. Marshall Field’s department stores, to- Moody’s Investors Service fixed-income of outlets for big-name designers.” Target, On the other hand, Wal-Mart weighs in taled $39.89 billion last year. analyst Elaine Francolino added, “What however, has provided “a chance for some with 2,782 stores in the U.S., with more “Being chic is critical to their growth, Target needs to continue to do is what it’s designers to reach their whole market and than 40 percent of them SuperCenters of- because it’s their chicness that allows them done, which is every year take on some to be really broad based.” fering food. to coexist with Wal-Mart,” said J.P. new brands or extend some of the brands Mark Miller, analyst with William Blair Jerry Storch, vice chairman, told the Morgan’s Eberts. Of course, “chic” takes that work well for them. That is the chal- & Co., noted, “The company’s seeing a Grocery Manufacturers of America this on a different meaning for the discounter lenge for them, but so far every indication growing list of people who want to partner summer that if Target opted to grow by than it does for, say, Bergdorf Goodman. is that they can do that.” with them, not a shrinking list.” He added, rolling out discount stores only, it’s possi- And chic, like so much of fashion, is hard to However, she added, in a recent report, on the competitive front, “Wal-Mart’s tak- ble to project a company with revenues attain and even harder to hold on to. “Now that Target has successfully differ- ing share from everyone, including Target, of about $115 billion in 10 years. While still lacking the cache of Mos- entiated itself with unique and fashion- but Target’s success has come from taking However, rolling out 30 to 40 SuperTarget simo, Wal-Mart, after testing its George able merchandise, it may become more share from other people. Target’s success stores annually could produce a compa- women’s line in 1,600 U.S. doors last fall, difficult for the company to consistently or failure is more in their own hands, in ny with a top line of $160 billion over the rolled out the line’s fall-holiday offering to find new trend-right merchandise to sus- the way they manage their business.” same time frame. “This is not a projec- all of its stores this month. tain its high level of customer traffic.” Ladenburg’s Beder noted, “Some of tion, but a mathematical formula applied George Davies, who has since left the C. Britt Beemer, founder and chairman these people they’re signing, I’m not real- to the number of stores,” Storch empha- company and was previously a Next de- at America’s Research Group, a Charleston, ly sure what it does for them being chi- sized, indicating the importance of food signer, launched the line 12 years ago at S.C.-based consumer marketing consultan- chi. Mossimo was a brilliant stroke, but to the discounter’s future. Asda — a British retail chain now owned cy, said, from consumers, “Target gets great at the end of the day, they’ll probably get Target has its eye on 2,010 stores by by Wal-Mart. George men’s wear was also ratings and they certainly have attracted a better traction from Woolrich and Eddie the year 2010 — still below Wal-Mart’s introduced last December in Wal-Mart’s large group of younger customers that Bauer. I’m not sure how much you can current level. About 400 of them are slat- U.S. stores and will be in more than 2,000 were, for example, Gap customers.” take Target to that level and not take ed to be SuperTargets. locations this year. The George line rakes He added that 59 percent of Target’s them away from their core customer.” 22 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 Cor raiepoutdvlpr o both exp’ seeks for j developers co product accessory creative paced Fast grow- drawing our join strong to ing designteam.Minof2yearsexp. creativity with and skills designer jew- fashion elry a seeks manufacturer and Jersey New Northern Leading exp amust.Salcommensw/exp. 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HUK-A-POO n Call Sherr Call Sherr 3rd Floor...... 14,500SF Fully A/C&Modernized [email protected] Ladies Handbags PRODUCTIONS PRODUCTIONS including sourcing, a Manhattans’ Premier (212) 594-5850 n Owner/Management Units from450SF c HILSON y e /lease-Call 917-549-0452 (212) 751-5884 d orE-mail(Pls.ref.HUK) N J y y 212-719-0622. 212-719-0622. c o r p o r a t i o n w i hits th

. l w e’ pae.Itraewt retai with Interface apparel. ren’s Design Asst’s$45,000 $Open$ Graphic Artist $55,000 Tech. Designer Sales-CW/Accessories $Open$ Technical Asst-Woven’s$70,000 Designer Yng.Mens/Mens$65,000 Designer-CW $100,000 PROFESSIONAL RESUMES,INC. A A A sales a accts. not key is all This position. Salespeopleneednotapply. req’d. Track travel Work A+. Some and AS400 Link IBM, /WordPerfect Excel Retail in Bench.Proficient Workin of req’d. skills knowledge people & nication commu- Strong management/planners. Wor be personable. Must & environment. motivated highly fast-paced wor in energetic, to individual seeks organized extremely mfg. outerwear Large with be work projects. special Excel, Must Mid townofficeinstableaccessoriesbiz. oversee with accountant, administrator. Employee balances. proficient records. outstanding benefits payroll and collecting Maintain dedicated follow-up to Persistent person. proactive, organized Seeking Cash of Non-Factored experi- Knowledge A and with Factored environment. person a in A/R ence for Brooklyn looking in located company Giftwear importer. giftware A growing for Needed M A CPSC Excellent all requirements. in quality, delivery&price. testing Experts trims. 1615 and related fabrica- We tions all of production. & knowledge complete for proven have sleepwear orders yrs seeks in 15 items record with Co track Based Taiwan service Full shop tothetrade.Finefastwork. patterns. duplicates, ples, Sam- productions. small in Specializing Sales Assts$38,000 Spec Techs$40,000 and resume Fax Approvals. salar Credit Assignments & Factor POD, Collections, mass for procedures ASN merchandisers andlargeretailchains. and UCC, EDI, regulations, compliance customer er iiu xeinerequired. results experience Excellent Benefits. minimum Three skills. years be organizational communi- and excellent cation have have relationship, and Must oriented department kids. in account with background store professional sales RESUMES THATWORK!SINCE1970 ACCOUNT COORDINATOR SLEEPWEAR MFR4HIRE! ACCOUNT MANAGER/ CUSTOMER SERVICE dmin Asst’s/Reception$25-35,000 ccts Receivables$45,000 dmin. Asst’s Immediate resolution, Chargeback pplication, in knowledgeable be must pplicant t ae omng ct.frchild- for accts. manage to sales ith Accounts Receivable 212-730-6315 Attn:Admin.Asst.Ad. a PATTERNS/SAMPLES High qlty,lowprice.Anydesign& WINSTON APPARELSTAFFING C Top NotchResource PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD post j o Accts Receivable/ fabric.Fastwork.212-714-2186 Best contractorfordesigners. y RESUMES-JOBS r www.resumesforfashion.com C 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 Fax resumeto718-649-9474 Fax resumeto212-239-2766 Updating/Phone Interviews requirements(718)649-9474. (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Fashioncareercenter.com Email: [email protected] y O e Please faxresumeto: PRODUCTION our resumeat:jobads1.com Fashionresumes.com PARTIAL LISTING$ ADMIN ASST/ s Fax: (212)986-8437 Fax:212-564-2882 t Office Mgr U a Call: (212)967-2511 b 212-869-2699 N l i s h T e d

E c X o m E p C n seeks any U T I V E k k g l , inasssdsge nalapcso aspects Posi- all in office. designer NY assists for tion Designer sistant (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 (212)557-5000 o trs ra a n benefits, to BeautifulCatalinaIslandRequired. and pay v and Great medical/dental, housing, stores. including 3 wear resort for o specialty women’s buyer & for men’s looking Retailer Specialty attn: resume in- Fax and Nanc payments. expenses payables, for coming books and have maintain A/Receivable Must tracking co. of knowledge importer/apparel Est organ- oriented, ized andCADproficient. detail be must Can- didates shopping. trend including design, sports- and dress girls w label and licensed private character branded, Major Stacey to confidence fax in (212) 967-8108orE-Mailto: Pls Mac- must. creative, resume a oriented. be photoshop detail Must Illustrator, job. and all the motivated, in Division. of Designer assistant aspects Head Label Assists private experienced Position for for designer Looking A APPAREL "CAREERS" *Design*Prod’n*Tech Design*GraphicDesign See [email protected] APPAREL STAFFING ments [email protected] ASST BOOKKEEPER cto a.Slr 4-0.Relocatio $40-50K. Salary pay. acation DMIN Since 1967 DMIN a opn ek xeine As- experienced seeks company ear Girls NB/Inf/Toddler Submit resumeandsalaryrequire- Assistant Designer- ADMIN *TECHPRODUCTION Post Assistant Designer Buoys andGulls DESIGN *SALESMERCH y or faxresume:310-510-2357 w/salar W-I-N-S-T-O-N stace y Call: 310-510-0178x703 BUYER our resumeonjobads1.com (212) 643-1345 y

chargebacks/commission/ [email protected] y reqat212-643-8017. m n f f ucin.Boky oain reports accounting and location, directly totheowner. general Brooklyn all financial functions. and computer systems of periodic knowledge operational management, and similar inventory of include statements, or Responsibilities preparation program. Peachtree acctg of with knowledge (7+ manager hands-on firm seeks million) jewlry/gift costume Growing OPERATIONS MANAGE 1-2 to of years amust.Massmarketexpplus! experience Artist CAD production. CAD and talented manufacturer a w lingerie for busy looking and Fun Fax 212-213-9641Tel:212-213-6384 CUSTOMER SVC/SALESASST$45K Maj textileco,Comptexp,Excelreq’d CAD ARTISTNEEDED r ndsgigpit,presentations, prints, designing on ork Please faxresumeto(212)354-5105 Raskin ExecutiveSearchEdKret Fax resumeto:212-689-3133 jeannie CONTROLLER/ Attn: Jeannieoremailto: _ crosb y @burlen.com R Excellent opportunit 22 6-64atninM re-mail or to resume MP fax attention [email protected] Please gds 268-3654 sketching, piece (212) must. of flat Knowledge a phases market including fit. all and in specs design experience yrs of 5 with ladies individu- al creative a label seeks co private sportswear better Expanding 5 have exp Must years Designer: Dress Daytime ban Styleboyspop.pricedsportswear Designer $60-70kPresentexp.inUr- collection. 4-20.MACproficiency. Call 973-564-9236JaralAgc DESIGNER . n ra kthn ability. sketching great and Designer y . Fax:212-382-3623 y WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 23 y y network.com y SALES Fax: 212-213-9641 department stores. 212-967-3912/email: 212-216-9745 Attn: Vicki sales@hosier www.raskinexecsearch.com SALES ASSISTANT exp. in urban boys sportswear to exp. in boys and girls activewear RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH /swimwear. to department stores. /swimwear. to department SALES VP $ OPEN HIGH. Present SALES VP $ OPEN HIGH. Present SALES VP $ OPEN HIGH. Present SALES VP $ OPEN HIGH. SALES $ OPEN. Present exp. in JR *****APPAREL EMPLOYERS***** staff? CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Ag idual. Computer knowledge a must. Apparel/Accessory/Textile Specialists DUCTION, TECHNICAL, SALES etc. denim to mid tier and department stores. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral fashion Agenc exp. in girls 4-16 to department stores. Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRO- Opportunity for growth. Fax resume: Opportunity for growth. Fax Exploding Ladies and Children’sAcces- sory Co. with numeroushighly licenses motivated, seeks detail orientedv indi- Sock/hosiery company seekingmotivated highly salesperson.yrs Must exp.Must in have have the 3 activerelationships hosiery/accry accounts and market. to: Salary + cm. Please fax resume strong with buyers/chains. Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 Nancy Bottali,Accessory 212-213-6386 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 d y y y y Sales - NY . call 973-564-9236 Ag Box#M 1238 y Fax: 973-812-0581 New York, NY 10001 Jaral Fashion Agenc . Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Ag c/o Fairchild Publications 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl y a must. Base + commission. SALES EXECUTIVE omen’s suiting, sportswear & dress ery Hot Line. Private label or brand- Sales Representative Assist V.P. of sales. Kids’ account exp. Assist V.P. of sales. Kids’ account SALES $ Open.16 Present dresses exp selling inhang girls to 7- dept w/Aqua stores.Jess Martin, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Ag Must Blue, Byer, Rampage, Sales $ Open. Present exp. in Girls Trendy JR. Oriented Sportswear. 4-16. V Sales $knit Open or woven Presentbranded okay. Call: 973-564-9236. sprtswr. Private exp label or in missy Est’d Asia based textileaggressive company seeks w sales representative for Calif apparelSales Executive for retailsent NY office, co to children repre- 277-1651. sportswear. Fax resume (323) and seeks girls’ exp’ dresses and Salesbras/panties $ sellingchains. to Excell Open. popular Oppty.branded oka priced Private Present label or exp. in ed oka market. SomeSalary experience commensurate withand abilities. Please respond to: necessary. experience y x S y . y Humphreys . y i.com y n j hr@ Fashion Sweaters ACCOUNT Fax (323) 265-3286 [email protected] EXECUTIVE Fax resume: 212-216-9745 to 717-684-0229 or email KEY ACCOUNT For Beautiful North Cenral Attn: Vicki or call: 212-216-9742 TECH DESIGNER Connecticut area. Will Relocate. Coolwear Jeans Technical Designer TECHNICAL DESIGNER $65-70K TECHNICAL DESIGNER

Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 TECHNICAL DESIGNER $70-80K. TECHNICAL DESIGNER arehouse Mgr to $40K. Middlese EXECUTIVE-SALES Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Ag Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Budget Ladies’ Wear Mfr. ork with dept. and chain stores. Good ith salary history via e-mail, to: ear company seeks an experienced ccessories is an equal opportunit pparel Co. seeks individual with Intimate Apparel Sales Pro Tel: 718-855-3388 / Fax: 718-855-3373 Present exp. in Wovens Sportswear. ccessory Co. seeks exp. salesperson w/ mid- Present exp. in Better to Bridge Full Present exp. in Better to Bridge olume. Must have exp with Walmart. Division of Madison Maidens Inc. Fax resume with salary requirements ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Email resume with Subject Header: Acct. Exec-Sleepwear: Your Name, to JONES NEW YORK INTIMATE Exp. withMust have some sewing skills. mens & boys preferred. 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Talk aboutThe oppty, design team thisduction is team is in isw place! incredible. in The place. pro- Back office, W retail sales abilityfashion incl retail sense. maththe The & dialog a accts isto are there. grow a Do open business?ma, you If & charm, you know & have the ho W charis- rest of what it takes! Fast-growing Jrhelp jeanswear inw co production. Organized, needs hard- High-end Handbag Co.tion Assistant. seeks Must be Produc- cient computer profi- (QuickBooks & Word), able to 5-10management years exp. Gerber exp pattern a plus. plus strong A A fax resumes attn: Carl - 212-719-4074 ence in anPlease Fax resume to Hal: office environment a must. l y r y Illustrator. HR EOE 212-736-2649 Fax: (704) 522-4751 Manager of or email: [email protected] Gali at 212-689-3131 Ext 215 [email protected] GRAPHIC ARTIST GRAPHIC ARTIST For more information, please call Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 ssistant. Computer knowledge a plus. arders, and managing customs brokers. Import Operations MAC Graphic Designe Design Room Asst. F/T Graphic Artistin $50-70K. cartoon PresentEmbroideries. exp. character Screen girlstion Ready Art on MAC. prints. 4-6X, Produc- 7-14. Graphic Artist $40-70K Presentinfant/toddler exp. in girls. On MAC. Full- CHF Industries,Home Inc., Furnishings, a hasopening leader an for in a immediate Managerations Textile of Import in Oper- manage its New departmentfor York purchasing, letters with Office. ofcosting, credit, responsibilit import vendor Will on payments, deliveries,w scheduling follow-up freight for- Must haveleast 3 5+ yearsactivity years in management, environment experience,sourcing. in Should with high at haverience hands internationa on with expe- forwarders/shipping customs lines brokers,edge and of freight the knowl- harmonizedof the U.S. tariff schedule Successful candidate will have strong PC skills including Word, Excel, and Internet. Dynamic work environment with excel- lent salary and benefits. 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Buono Fun and busyan lingerie energetic co.A looking and for motivated Design time, perm required. 973-564-9236 Agc Major apparel co.to seeks work Graphic in Artist missyskilled on Photoshop and/or div, size 6-14. Must be . y y (212) 382-2596 -Kobe Ltd. l Your Name Several More a t DESIGNER our resume at: jobads1.com s y y [email protected] r Post w/BCBG, XOXO, My Michele etc. EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITY! SWEATER DESIGNER APPAREL DAYWEAR confidence C Please fax resume in strictest Major missy sweater mfr. seeks experienced sweater designer. Candidate should have experience designing imported moderate missy sweaters, along with being accustomed to working with major accounts throughout the country. We are the largest automated sweater manufacturer in the world. ithin calendar guidelines. Salary, orking environment. Competitive com- knit tops/full fashion sweaters. Hang Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc Designer $ Open. Present exp. in JR. Email resume to: [email protected] with Subject Header: Designer-Daywear- Division of Madison Maidens Inc. DESIGNER-INTIMATE Jones New York Intimates Designers Immediate To $70,000 Technical-Woven’s Knit Designer $45,000 Designer Asst $45,000 Technical Designer $55,000 Technical Asst $35,000 Spec Techs $25-35,000 Designer $ Open.born Present exp infant ingraphic artists. MAC proficiency necc. girls. new- Generic.Designer Supervise $ Openborn infant boys sets. MAC proficient. Present exp. inDesigner$ Open Present exp. in girls 2-6X new- Call 973-564-9236. Jaral Fashion Agc Established, stillseeks growing creativedivision. Designer company; Must forin have Daywear designing priorclude Daywear panties, experience camis, product, keyies. daywear to bod- Right in- personlevel, will haveDaywear; minimum high able taste tow flat 3 sketch, and work years exp in w Girls Branded &Co. Prvt Label seeks Jeansindv Wear energetic to &assist design highly withextensive creative girls merchandising. 4/16 knowl Mustconst line, of have & andphases denim to fit fab, & of must wash, the be inolved dsgn in process. all Great benefits excellent. pensation package. Traveler req. Comput- skills, PhotoshopFax resume: 212-967-6004 Attn: Joe /Illustrator a must. 24 B inin herher ownown mixmix andand VivienneVivienne Westwood shoes at the Chateau Closet Cleaners Marmont. “Attire: couture vintage” read the invitation to the bash W and Resurrection hosted at the Chateau eye® Marmont Thursday, and Hollywood’s most fashionable pulled out all the stops. Into the lobby trooped Lisa Eisner, Jacqui Getty, Anna Getty, Kirsty Hume, Tracee Ellis Ross, Ariana Lambert, Jamie Tisch, Tara Subkoff and Tatiana von

WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, Furstenberg, looking like a rack of vintage cloth- ing sprung to life. As a Paco Rabanne-clad Lisa Marie twirled on the poolside dance floor to a mix of Nina Simone and Iggy Pop, China Chow jumped in, sending her own Rabanne paillettes shaking. “Mine’s from 1976,” announced Chow, one of the few who knew the actual date of her frock. Inside Bungalow 1, Shiva Rose McDermott channeled Joan Collins. “I feel so ‘Dynasty’ tonight!” she said, striking a pose on the vintage sofa. “Or like I’m in ‘Star 80,’ minus the bosoms.” Alan Cumming even donned his own kind of vintage — a floral Cynthia Rowley shirt, ratty from too many wearings. “This was as vintage as I could muster,” he said. By 10:30 p.m., one guest had stripped down to his underwear and jumped into the pool. “It was bound to happen,” sighed Rosanna Arquette. Earlier in the week, Lisa Kudrow and Denzel Washington cohosted Jaguar’s Tribute to Style on Rodeo Drive, a benefit dinner followed by a modern dance performance that in the eyes of some, fell flat. “I feel like I’m trapped in a PBS nightmare,” Tracee Ellis Ross in vintage Halston with Kiirrstysty Hume in vintage said one guest. Lisa Marie in vintage Paco Rabanne. Thea Porter.

Shiiva RoseRose McDermott in ArianaAriana Lambert in vintage Liissaa Eisner in vintage Thea vintage Betsey Valentino with Sophie LLisaisa Kudrow Chhinaina Chow in vintage Porter with Jacqui Getty in

Johnson. Carbonnel in Mon Atelier. inin MaxMara.MaxMara. Paco Rabanne. vintage Pierre Cardin. OTOSSARDELLA DONATO BY H P

LONDON — So where do punk rockers go when they decide to turn off the electric guitar and take off the combat gear? In Paul Simonon’s case, straight to the banks of the Thames with paintbrushes in hand. The former bass player and image guru for The Clash has a new vocation as a landscape artist in the great tradition of Turner, Constable and Canaletto. His first major London exhibition opened last week at the Hazlitt, Gooden and Fox Gallery in St. James’ and runs until Oct. 11. Simonon’s old friends — Damien Hirst, Ewan McGregor, Ben Elton and former Clash crooner Joe Strummer — all turned out at London Calling the opening party. Over a glass of orange juice and fizzy If you have no job water at his neighborhood pub in Notting “ Hill, Simonon explains that he actually prospects, you learn started life as an artist. As a child, he’d stay up all night drawing toys, battle- guitar to get out of fields and stick-figure soldiers. Today, he paints bridges, traffic, seagulls and the the hole. It’s the same London Eye, everything that makes up this glorious and often gloomy cityscape. thing with painting. “I came back here in the late Eighties — Paul Simonon” after having lived in America, and I real- ized that being away gave me a whole new vision of London, and of England. The clouds even seemed poetic,” says the 47-year-old, who is married with two sons. “I went down to the river and started painting. And after a while, the river traffic, the Thames boat picking up rubbish, the pigeons and the seagulls all seemed like familiar friends.” Of course, landscape drawing has its drawbacks, too, such as certain passersby volun- teering a steady stream of advice. “You feel like punching them in the nose,” he says with his big, gap-toothed smile. And then there are those days that are just too perfect. “Some areas of Cornwall are just too pretty to paint. When I’m there, I keep hoping for a black cloud to cheer me up a bit.” Next up for Simonon is an exhibition in Japan and a switch from landscape to still life. The artist and former guitarist says his two careers have a lot in common. “They offer a person a means to express himself — and a way out. If you have no job prospects, you learn guitar to get out of the hole,” he says. “It’s the same thing with painting.” Paul Simonon photographed by Juergen Teller. Paul Simonon photographed by Juergen Teller. — Samantha Conti