20,000 copies * City Map * Useful Information December 2017 Hello Milano

On our 21st birthday more information, more pages, more photos.

Guided tours connect Bicwith Last Supper tickets www.hellomilano.it Tourist assitence ART DEA online guide More information on I pag 12. www.artidea.co.uk See more at What’s On www.friendinmilan.co.uk translations • graphics • free press and find eventual possible changes A Streetcar Named “Carrelli” This is a story with a happy ending, without any In 1929 one of the first units was sent to connection to the 1951 American drama film “A Frankfurt and tested on the tram network Streetcar Named Desire” directed by Elia Ka- there, without success. Another unit was zan, starring Vivien Leigh and Marlon Brando! sold to Brussels, where it became the mo- This article is about another international del for the series 5000; more were sent to “star,” the timeless 1920’s-style white and yel- Madrid. low tram, with dark and shiny teak benches In 1932–1935 some cars were equipped and the interior illuminated with corolla-sha- with an experimental half door at the tail, ped glass lamps. It is one of the most photo- and from 1938 to 1940 with the complete graphed symbols for visitors to the city. Vir- rear door as it appears today. So the Peter tually an unofficial emblem. Witt system was abandoned after just a few It was on 20th November 1927, when for the years of service. first time a car of this new model, revolutio- During the Second World War many trams nary for the time, made its entry clattering on were seriously damaged, but only one unit Milan’s tramlines. 90 years later, it is still ope- had to be scrapped. The others were repai- rating, full of energy, well restored, and even red or reconstructed from 1945 to 1949. offering new proposals. Many of them were sold to the American ci- The Carrelli In the 1920s, when increasing traffic on the ties of San Francisco and San Jose, where courtesy Giorgio Stagni - Creative Commons Milan urban tramway network required the re- they now operate as museum streetcars. newal of the public transport infrastructure, Another tram was partially rebuilt for dou- Another Carrelli street car, called “Scuolain- the Municipal Tram Office decided to design a ble-ended “keep left” operation in Australia, tram” (namely lessons-in-tram), has a glitte- new type of streetcar, built on two bogies. It and it ran briefly in Melbourne. It is now at ring silver livery and metal furniture recalling was similar to a model introduced by Cleveland the Sydney Tram Museum. sci-fi films. It welcomes elementary school Railway commissioner Peter Witt, who desig- From 1972, the traditional trolley pole, which pupils and accompanies them around the ned a model of streetcar known by his name, often came off of the power line cable, cau- city. that was used in many North American cities, sing traffic jams and forcing the driver to get Two others have been transformed into tou- most notably in Toronto and Cleveland. off quickly and put it back by hand, was sub- ring restaurants, in a tourist project called The Carrelli Milan streetcar was designed by stituted by the more convenient system of “ATMosfera” (namely ATMosphere, a play the municipal engineers in 1927. After a few pantographs as used today. on words since ATM is the acronym for Mi- tests, a couple of prototypes were brought into In those years, municipal policy tended to lan Transport Company). Actually, they start service by the end of the same year. privilege bus lines, and some trams were put every day at 20.00 and 20.30 from Piazza Their name was inspired by the two bogies (na- into storage and later demolished. Castello. On board there are tables for 4 or 2 mely “carrelli”) under the long steel chassis. To date, there are 125 Carrelli trams still in people, with a total of 24 seats, as well as a This was the feature imported from the USA. circulation. Externally they still have their kitchen, wardrobe and toilet. They serve dif- The undisputed success of those preliminary original charm, painted in the white and ferent menus with meat, fish, or vegetarian models resulted in the production of 500 units, yellow livery that was used on the protot- meals, but it is necessary to book in advance. called “1928” from the year of production. The ypes. They have acquired a new dimension On Saturday 2 and Sunday 3 December, structure was produced by Carminati & Toselli, of significance, since they do not produce air from 10.00 to 19.00, ATM opens its doors to the a company that had a workforce of over 1,300 pollution, and have prompted technological general public showing all its treasures, letting metalworkers. (Today the former factory has innovation and constant modernization. children and adults have fun for free. A great been transformed into a venue for exhibitions In fact, four of them, called “Tram Bianco” opportunity to learn more about one of Milan’s and events called “Fabbrica del Vapore,” the (white tram), are available for a 3-hour ren- most useful companies. ATM Deposito, Via Messi- “Factory of Steam”). tal service. They can accommodate up to 60 na 41 • M5 Cenisio, tram 10-12-14, bus 43-57 The bogies were built by Fiat, while the electri- passengers and can be equipped with live On this occasion, considering its 90th birthday, cal equipment was by Ansaldo and TIBB (the music, catering, decorations and a private we couldn’t miss wishing the Carrelli streetcar latter is the acronym of Tecnomasio Italiano photographer, perfect for parties for children, a long clattering future, touring happily on Mi- Brown Boveri company, which built under- stag or hen nights, or business parties. lan’s rails. ground trains over for a century, and is now included in the name of the Lodi TIBB stop on Metro Line 3). This notable production effort enabled the stre- etcars to be delivered from 1929 to 1930. They were immediately put into service. Rehearsals at La Scala Mathematics & Fun

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What’s on December 2017

Highlights

Musical Until 31 December. Wed. to Sat. at From 26 to 31 December and from 02 to 07 January. On the occasion of the opening of the new permanent space 20.45; Sat. and Sun. These rehearsals are an opportunity for the public to access i.lab Mathematics, the “Museo della Scienza Leonardo da afternoon at 15.00; the Teatro alla Scala hit concerts at a very low price, and at Vinci” has organized some special days devoted to math, Sun. evening at the same time participate in a charity project, since the with experimental activities and performances for adults, 19.00. “Flashdance” entire proceeds are given to organizations related to well- youngsters and children. The activities also involve several written by Tom being and quality of life in the elderly. The program is as other interactive workshops, from Chemistry to Tinkering Hedley and Joe follows: Sunday 21 January, Richard Chailly with Benjamin Zone, from the Small Area to Soap Bubbles. The approach Eszterhaz; directed Grosvenor at the piano in favor of the Società Umanitaria; to matter is scientific but unexpected and irreverent. The by Adrian Lyne; per- Sunday 4 February, Myung-Whun Chung’s with Leonidas atmosphere is informal, to confront, have fun and be in- formed in Italian with Kavakos at the violin for the IRCCS Ca ‘Granda Ospedale volved with new stimuli. There will be some music perfor- original English music Maggiore Policlinico Foundation; Sunday 25 March, Yuri mance too. See the detailed program in http://www.museo- such as What a fee- Temirkanov with Seong-Jin Cho at the piano for the Eureka scienza.org/attivita ling, Maniac, Gloria, Social Cooperative; Sunday 20 May, Daniel Harding with Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo Man Hunt, I love Daniil Trifonov at the piano for San Vincenzo De Paoli. A da Vinci, Via San Vittore 21 • M2 Sant’Ambrogio Rock’n Roll. €20/73. www.ticketone.it, or www.teatrona- ticket for the 4 evenings €20/140; while each single show zionale.it. Teatro Nazionale, Via Giordano Rota 1, corner ticket €5/35; on sale from Monday 4 December 2018. Info: Piazza Piemonte • M1 Wagner 02465467467; filarmonica.it/proveaperte #ProveAperte From 1 to 10 De- Contest cember. Wed. to Ice Skating Rinks Until December. Castello Sforzesco organizes a competi- Sat. at 20.30; Sat. tion for artistic projects in the glass sector for under 35s. Sun. 15.30. “La Re- Entries by December 30, 2017. The finalists will attend an gina di Ghiaccio” in- exhibition hosted at the Milan Castle. https://www.compe- spired by Giacomo tition-35.com/home-en. Puccini’s Turandot, performed by Lorella Cuccarini, Pietro Pi- gnatelli and an arti- The world’s biggest Panettone stic cast with actors, singers, dancers, On 17 December. 16.30. The Milanese festivities sweet acrobats. €23/60. symbol will be the protagonist of an open-air event, where www.ticketone.it. you can have a free taste of “panettoni” and admire the Teatro degli Arcim- “Biggest Panettone of the world.” A triumph of taste and boldi, Viale dell’Innovazione 20 • M5 Bicocca creativity which weighs 140 kg and is 2 meters high, and it will be cut in 1,200 slices to be distributed. Galleria Vittorio From 13 Decem- Emanuele • M1/3 Duomo ber to 7 January. In addition, during the weekend from 16 to 17 December, For the timetable Milanese baker’s and confectioner masters participating in

see the site www. the initiative will offer for free in their shops tastings of this teatroarcimboldi.it. From 2 December to 7 January traditional sweet. “Dirty Dancing. The * every day from 10.00 to 24.00 and on Saturdays until Classic Story on Sta- 01.00. Piazza Gae Aulenti • M3 Garibaldi ge”. €19/74. www. * every day from 10.00 to 24.00 and on festivity days till Music Weekend ticketone.it. Teatro 02.00. Piazza Beccaria, and Piazza Beltrami • M1 Duomo degli Arcimboldi, * every day from 10.00 to 21.00 a covered double track in- Saturday 9, at 12.30 and 18.00; and on Sunday 10 at Viale dell’Innovazio- side the so called “Village of Wonders”. Giardini Montanelli, 12.30 and 17.30, Umbria Region and Umbria Jazz will offer ne 20 • M5 Bicocca between Via Palestro and Porta Venezia • M1 Palestro or to Milan two music events during the evening. The Funkoff Porta Venezia, M3 Turati marching band will play funky, soul, jazz, latin and rock From 7 December to 28 January. Weekdays 16.30- rhythms inspired by the New Orleans street bands, as a Concert 19.30; festive 10.30-19.30; 25, 26 December closed; 1 tribute to artists such as Maceo Parker, James Brown and January 14.30-19.30. Besides the skating rinks there will Motown. People in the piazza will be free to dance. Piazza be shows, creative workshops, theater, markets, games, Duomo • M1/3 Duomo From 8 to 17 De- stories and lots of music. Admission free. Rent ice skates, cember. 20.00. helmet €3 each. Palazzina Bagni Misteriosi, Via Carlo Botta “Ludovico Einaudi 18 • M3 Porta Romana Cine-Museum Tour” €40/75. www. tickeone.it. Teatro Until December. A calendar of movie events that, thanks Dal Verme, Via San Call to the digital cinema technology, showcases on the big scre- Giovanni sul Muro 2 en the richness of the world’s most important exhibitions, • M1 Cairoli Until 15 December. ContrArco is an passionate amateur artists, museums. orchestra, looking for soloists playing either piano, violin, viola, cello, double bass, flute, oboe, clarinet, bassoon, 12, 13 December. “Julian Schnabel. A Private Portrait” trumpet, French horn, or harp who would like to experience Written and directed by Pappi Corsicato and produced by playing with them in April 2018. They require the availability Buena Onda with Rai Cinema, with the testimonies of frien- to perform for free on the concert day and guarantee at least ds, family, actors and artists, including Al Pacino, Mary Bo- Milano Musica 3 rehearsals before the performance. All info at http://www. one, Jeff Koons, Bono and Laurie Anderson, gives life to a aimamusic.it/bando-per-solisti-con-orchestra-201718/ fascinating and revealing portrait of one of the most uncon- From 1 November to 2 December. Proposes to the ventional and restless painters of the contemporary scene. A general public the rich repertoire of the twentieth-century list of the Italian cinemas is available on www.nexodigital.it. music. Without excluding the masterpieces of the past, it Concert at museum 5 December. 20.15: Live ballet via satellite. “The Nutcra- aims to suggest different generations experiences such as Each third Wednesday of the month. 18.00-22.15. cker” by Tchaikovsky; performed live by the Royal Opera relationships between sounds, space, time, offering new Three hours of classical music in collaboration with the House; Peter Wright choreographer. Direct broadcasting via perspectives. All events in http://www.milanomusica.org/ pianist Clive Britton. €3. Pinacoteca di Brera, Via Brera 28 • satellite on 1500 screens all over the world. To know which it/sezione-festival/calendario.html in Italian. M2 Lanza, M1 Duomo will be in Milan see www.nexodigital.it Please note Opening times and fees written in this What’s On could change without notice. page 3 On Sunday 3rd December all Italian public museums are free. From Thursday 7th to Sunday 10th and from Saturday 24th to Tuesday 26th many families may leave What’s on for a long weekend and some private activities such as art galleries could be closed. December 2017 On the contrary during December shops are exceptionally open even on Sundays except on Christmas day.

1st December 2017: Friday 17.00: Recital. Christmas markets 08.00–19.00: Street market. Collecting modern art, an- On occasion of the All December excluding Mondays Sundays and tiques, vintage for hobbyists and amateurs. Via Spallanzani Open Piano event, Christmas. Tues. to Sat. 10.300-18.300. New and second • M1 Porta Venezia the pianist Giusep- hand items for your Christmas gifts. Admission free. Mu- 09.00–19.00: Street market. Antiques and collecting pina Torre per- seo Martinitt e Stelline, Corso Magenta 57 • M1 Cadorna or market exhibition for amateurs. Piazza Sant’Eustorgio • M2 forms some parts Conciliazione Lanza of her album “Il From 1 to 24 December. 10.00-20.00. Find a gift and 10.00-22.00: Sound installation. The Swedish-American Silenzio delle Stel- also offer a concrete help to those in need of care. On artist Catherine Christer Hennix, who is a writer, philoso- le”. Admission sale items such as; fine fabrics, silver jewelery, children’s pher, scientist and mathematician, has conceived a long- free. Libreria Fel- toys, natural cosmetics, food, wine chocolate, gift baskets; term sound installation in dialogue with the exhibition trinelli, Piazza or Herat handmade glass, Bamyan fabric handbags, Ne- “Ambienti / Environments” by Lucio Fontana, on show at Duomo corner Via pal pashmins, Kashmir shawls, Sudan-woven baskets; and Hangar Bicocca. This new art work is performed with static Ugo Foscolo • M1 even rings, bracelets and keychains by No War Factory, a sound waves and developed with a new digital tool. Admis- courtesy Vittorio Graziano Duomo company that produces handmade jewelry, made by Laos sion free. Hangar Bicocca, Via Chiese 2 • M5 Istria craftsmen using aluminum recovered from fragments of 19.30: Live manouche. “Spaghetti Gipsy” by Danie- 17.00: Symphony music. Music by Rossini, Beethoven, bombs; or products by I Girasoli Onlus, which in the center le Gregolin, guitar, voice; Ndio Mareco, accordion, Luca Haydn; performed by I Pomeriggi Musical Orchestra, with of Sicily manages a mandorlet confiscated by the mafias. Campioni, violin. Admission free, reservation requested at Jingzhi Zhang, violin; conducted by Gianluca Capuano. €9/20. Emergency, Via Santa Croce 19 • M2 Porta Genova+bus 02.382431051. Drinks purchase required. Après-coup, Via Teatro Dal Verme, Via San Giovanni sul Muro 2 • M1 Cairoli 94; M1 Duomo+tram 3 Della Braida 5 • M3 Porta Romana 17.15: Organ music. “Benedictus,” a Christmas medita- Until 2 December. Fri. 15.00-18.30, Sat. 10-18.30. A gre- 20.00: Symphony tion with a brief lecture in Italian by Antonio Gargiulo, fol- at selection of antiques, furniture, lace, hand embroidery, music. “Libro nottur- lowing organ concert by Matteo Galli. Admission free on a curtains, clothing, linens, books, shoes, bags, jewelry, gifts, no delle voci” by Sal- first-come. Basilica of Santa Maria presso San Satiro, Via records, stamps, rugs, hats, coins, buttons, toys, wedding vatore Sciarrino; “La Torino 17 – 19 • M1/3 Duomo. gowns and household items. Admission free. Piccolo Cot- valse” and “Boléro” by tolengo Don Orione, Viale Caterina da Forlì 19 • M1 Bande Ravel; “Nocturnes” by Nere, bus 58, 67, 90, 91 Debussy; performed From 7 to 10 December. 08.30-21.00. “Obej, Obej” the by Orchestra Sinfoni- huge traditional Milanese Christmas street market with 379 ca di Milano Giuseppe stalls offering great selection of crafts, gifts, books, records, courtesy Silvia Lelli Verdi, with Mario Ca- sweets… along the streets around the Castello Sforzesco • roli, flute; conducted M1 Cairoli by Marco Angius; and Coro Sinfonico di Milano Giuseppe Verdi with Erina Gambarini, choir master. €16/36. Audito- rium di Milano, Largo Gustav Mahler 1 (Corso San Gottar- 19.00, 21.30: Chamber music. Quartet Noûs plays the Christmas lighting do) • M1 Duomo + tram 3; M2 Porta Genova + bus 59 20.00: Concert and Christmas carols. Music by Verdi, first Italian performance of the Quartet no. 9 by Georg Frie- Rossini, Galli, Saint-Saëns, Ravel, followed by Traditional drich Haas, to be played in the dark. Following a scientific Christmas Carols; performed by Matteo Galli, organ; Fran- study in Italian about the theme by Fabio Peri, Planetary cesco Attesti, piano; Francesca Martini, soprano. Admission Conservator. €5. Planetario Ulrico Hoepli, Corso Venezia 57 free on a first-come basis. Church of Sant’Angelo, Piazza • M1 Porta Venezia Sant’Angelo • M2 Moscova, M3 Turati 21.00: Live Christmas choir. “Oratorio Jephte” by Giaco- mo Carissimi, “Giuseppe figlio di Giacobbe” by Luigi Rossi; performed by the Civic Choirs of the Civic School of Mu- sic Claudio Abbado; with Francesco Girardi, teacher of the choir; conducted by Mario Valsecchi. Admission free. Church of Sant’Agostino, Via Melchiorre Gioia 50 • M3 Sondrio From 4 December Do not forget to admire the lighting of Vittorio Emanuele Gallery vault, which will shine with 50,000 blue LEDs located at 45 meters high, covering the 800 square meters of the dome. As a complement the Christmas tree just below. In addition, from the periphery to the city center, enjoy 180 “sparkling” streets along 35km. On 6 December. 16.30. The Christmas tree lighting ce- remony will be a spectacular and engaging event, with 21.00: Rock opera. A tribute to Lucio Battisti, performed choreography of lights and colors, various activities and by 2 Mondi & Vent Ensemble with a Symphony Orchestra. thousands of brightly colored bracelets distributed free. The €21/42. www.ticketone.it Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe 21.00: Ballet. “Swan Lake” by Tchaikovsky; performed by spruce, 30-meter tall, was selected in collaboration with the Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • M2 Assago Forum (round-trip ti- the Russian Stars & Moscow State Classical Ballet by Liud- Trentino Alto Adige Forestry Corps since it was already de- cket to Assago Forum) mila Titova. €21/42. www.ticketone.it Teatro della Luna, Via stined for slaughter; as it was above the maximum permit- nd Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • M2 Assago Forum ted height to ensure the safety of the surrounding roads. 2 December 2017: Saturday (round-trip ticket to Assago Forum) At the end of the holidays, it will be recycled. In addition, 09.00–19.00: Street market. Antiques and collecting 21.00: Live film music. “60 Years of Music World Tour” by Christmas balls and LED strings will be returned to suppliers market exhibition for amateurs. From 15.30 to 18.30: the maestro Ennio Morricone, Golden Globe winner in 2016. to ensure their reuse. “Grandparents games” workshop for children with wooden artisanal games crafted to faithfully reproduce the games of www.ticketone.it. Mediolanum Forum, Via Di Vittorio 6. As- our ancestors. Piazza Sant’Eustorgio • M2 Lanza sago (MI) • M2 Assago Forum (buy a “Milan-AssagoForum 16.00: Orchestral music. Eighteenth century music by round-trip ticket”) Christmas village George Muffat, Friedrich Haendel, Gasparo Visconti, Giu- seppe Sammartini, Alessandro Scarlatti; performed by the 3rd December 2017: Sunday From 2 December to 7 January. In addition to the ice Baroque Orchestra of the Civic School of Music Claudio Ab- 08.00-19.00: Street market. High quality arts and crafts skating rink, a nineteenth-century horse carousel and a bado; conducted by Lorenzo Ghielmi. €3/5 while seats last. exhibition. Via Brera, Via Fiori Chiari, Via Fiori Oscuri • M2 sled drawn by Santa Claus and his reindeer. Piazza Beccaria Castello Sforzesco, Sala della Balla • M1 Cairoli Lanza • M1 Duomo 16.00: Symphony concert for children. “Swan Lake” by 09.00–17.00: Lombard farmers’ 8 stalls market. Goat * Every day from 10.00 to 21.00 In addition to the ice ska- Tchaikovsky; performed by Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano and cow cheeses, ricotta, dairy products, bee products, ting rink, many activities, shows, creative workshops, glit- Giuseppe Verdi, conducted by Vincenzo Milletari; ballet per- jams, preserves, meat, eggs, fruit, vegetables, flour, bake- tering rides. Children will be able to speak and take photos formed by Espressione Danza; some speech in Italian by ry, cereals, wine, ornamental plants. Quality, freshness and with Santa Claus in his lodge. Village of Wonders, Giardini Nicola Olivieri, actor. €7.50/15. Auditorium di Milano, Largo respect for seasonal production, guaranteed directly by tho- Montanelli, between Via Palestro and Porta Venezia • M1 Gustav Mahler 1 (Corso San Gottardo) • M1 Duomo + tram se who produce them. Via Chiesa Rossa, Via San Domenico Palestro or Porta Venezia, M3 Turati 3; M2 Porta Genova + bus 59 Savio 3 • M2 Abbiategrasso 21.00: Live rap. Caparezza. €29. www.ticketone.it. Medio- 21.00: Live. “Ombre lanum Forum, Via Di Vittorio 6. Assago (MI) • M2 Assago nell’Inverno” by Vinicio Forum (buy a “Milan-AssagoForum round-trip ticket”) Capossela. www.ticketo- page 4 ne.it. Teatro Nazionale, 7th December 2017: Thursday Via Giordano Rota 1, Sant’Ambrogio, Milan’s patron saint. Feast day in Milan What’s on corner Piazza Piemonte 10.30: Pontifical Mass. Presided over by the Cardinal December 2017 • M1 Wagner Archbishop of Milan, with the Abbott, and music sung by the left: Scholae Cantorum Basilica choir. Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, 09.30-17.00: Street market. Market exhibition for col- photo by Giovanni Canitano Piazza Sant’Ambrogio • M2 Sant’Ambrogio lectors, hobbyists, demonstrations and amateur creative artwork by Jacopo Leone 11.00: Live jazz festival premier world performance. activities. Books, cartoons, comics, collectors’ items, toys, “A Band for the Modern Jazz Quartet”, music by John Lewis 21.00: Recital. Melologue games, records, curiosities.... Parco Ravizza, Viale Toscana, and Milt Jackson; arranged by Enrico Intra, Luca Missiti and for acting voice and piano; Via Bocconi, Viale Bach, Viale Brahms Via Vittadini • bus 79, Marco Visconti Prasca; performed by the Civica Jazz Band, Enoch Arden op.38 by Ri- filobus 90-91 with the soloists Emilio Soana, trumpet; Andrea Andreoli, chard Strauss, performed by 13.00: Harness racing. Self Possessed Award. €5; under trombone; Giulio Visibelli, sax and flute; Marco Vaggi dou- Elisa D’Auria, piano and Nino 14 free; under 18, women and over 60 €1. Ippodromo del ble bass; Tony Arco, drums; with guest Luca Gusella, vi- Tagliareni, acting voice. Ad- Trotto, Viale Piccolomini 2 • M5 San Siro Ippodromo braphone; conducted by Enrico Intra. €20. Piccolo Teatro mission free. Auditorium Ga- Strehler, Largo Greppi 1 • M2 Lanza, M1 Cairoli ber, Grattacielo Pirelli, Re- 12.30: Harness racing. Gran Criterium (Gr.I) Final; Gran gione Lombardia, Piazza Criterium Filly (Gr.II). €5; under 14 free; under 18, women Duca d’Aosta 3 • M2/3 Cen- and over 60 €1. Ippodromo del Trotto, Viale Piccolomini 2 • trale M5 San Siro Ippodromo 21.00: Live pop. Gianna Nannini. €29. www.ticketone.it. 18.00: Great La Scala opening. “Andrea Chénier” by Mediolanum Forum, Via Di Vittorio 6. Assago (MI) • M2 As- Umberto Giordano, on occasion of the 50th anniversary of sago Forum (buy a “Milan-AssagoForum round-trip ticket”) Victor de Sabata death; a new Teatro alla Scala production performed by the Chorus, the Ballet Company and the Or- 5th December 2017: Tuesday chestra; Riccardo Chailly, conductor. http://teatroallascala. 08.30-18.30. Farmers market. According to the Medi- ticketone.it/. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza della Scala • M1/3 15.30, 18.15: Musical. “Cinderella” performed by the terranean diet, organic, natural and traditional Lombardy Duomo Compagnia delle Formiche. €26/40. www.ticketone.it. Tea- farms selling organic rice and flour, chickens; Chianina beef *The opera will be projected live at 27 places distributed in tro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • M2 and various meat; cow and goat cheese; seasonal vege- the nine Milan Municipalities. Admission free on a first-come Assago Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago Forum) tables, natural wine, jams, honey and derivatives, juices, basis, in some locations reservation is requested. All info at fresh fruit. Piazza Sant’Eustorgio • M2 Lanza www.comune.milano.it/primadiffusa (in Italian). 08.00-19.00: Street market. High quality arts and crafts 20.45: Euroleague basket. EA7 Milano versus Khimki Mo- exhibition. Via Brera, Via Fiori Chiari, Via Fiori Oscuri • M2 scow Region. Mediolanum Forum, Via Di Vittorio 6. Assago Lanza (MI) • M2 Assago Forum (buy a “Milan-AssagoForum round- 15.00, 18.15, 21.30: Film in English with Italian trip ticket”) subtitles. “The Snowman,” directed by Tomas Alfredson; 21.00: Ballet. “The starring Rebecca Ferguson, Michael Fassbender. €5/7.50. Nutcracker” by Tchaikov- Cinema Arcobaleno, Viale Tunisia 11 • M1 Porta Venezia sky, performed by the Russian International Ballet directed by Oksa- 16.00: Symphony music. “Libro notturno delle voci” by 20.00: Live. “Priceless” per- na Usacheva. €21/42. Salvatore Sciarrino; “La valse” and “Boléro” by Ravel; “Noc- formed by Gianni de Bernardi- www.ticketone.it. Teatro turnes” by Debussy; performed by Orchestra Sinfonica di nis (in the photo) and Andrea Ra- della Luna, Via Giuseppe Milano Giuseppe Verdi, with Mario Caroli, flute; conducted buffetti, multi-instrumentalist Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • by Marco Angius; and Coro Sinfonico di Milano Giuseppe playing mandolin, sitar, guitar, M2 Assago Forum Verdi with Erina Gambarini, choir master. €16/36. Audito- banjo .... Admission free. Spa- (round-trip ticket to As- rium di Milano, Largo Gustav Mahler 1 (Corso San Gottardo) zio 22, Viale Sabotino 22 • M3 sago Forum) • M1 Duomo + tram 3; M2 Porta Genova + bus 59 Porta Romana th 4th December 2017: Monday 8 December 2017: Friday Virgin Birth, Immaculate Conception. Feast day in Italy 13.00, 15.00, 17.10, 19.50, 21.30: Film in English 20.30: Recital. On the occasion of the 300th birthday of 11.00: Pontificial Mass. Presided over by the Cardinal with Italian subtitles. “The Snowman,” directed by Tomas Empress Maria Teresa of Austria, the Austrian pianist Paul Archbishop of Milan and music sung by the Scholae Canto- Alfredson; starring Rebecca Ferguson, Michael Fassbender. Gulda plays music by Mozart, Sammartini, Galuppi, Frie- rum Cathedral choir. Duomo, Piazza Duomo • M1/3 Duomo €5/7.50. Cinema Anteo, Via Milazzo 9 • M2 Moscova, tram drich and Paul Gilda. Admission free, booking at info@resi- 20.00: Symphony music. A selection of arias by Tchaikov- and buses: 11,33, 41, 43, 94 denzerealilombarde.it. Circolo Filologico Milanese, Via Cle- sky, Berlioz, Prokof’ev, about the “Romeo and Juliet” myth; 20.30: Dance. “Thanks for hurting me” contemporary dan- rici 10 • M1 Duomo performed by Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Ver- ce in a show dedicated to the emotional and sensory expe- 21.00: Live jazz festival. “Nor Sea, Nor Land, Nor Salty di, conducted by Patrick Fournillier. €16/36. Auditorium di rience of pain. €15. Teatro Franco Parenti, Via Pier Lombar- Waves” performed by the Civica Jazz Band, with the soloists Milano, Largo Gustav Mahler 1 (Corso San Gottardo) • M1 do 14 • M3 Porta Romana Emilio Soana, trumpet; Andrea Andreoli, trombone; Giulio Duomo + tram 3; M2 Porta Genova + bus 59 20.45: Show in English with Italian surtitles. “Po- Visibelli, sax and flute; Marco Vaggi double bass; Tony Arco, 21.00: Ballet. “The Sleeping Beauty” by Tchaikovsky, ker Face” tragicomedy between realism and surrealism by drums; and the guests Signe Irene Stangborli, voice; Re- performed by the Russian International Ballet directed by the “enfant terrible” of the Czech theater, playwright Petr nata Vinci, clarinet; Eloisa Manera and Caterina Caramella, Oksana Usacheva. €21/42. www.ticketone.it. Teatro della Kolečko. The show is produced by LegalAliens, a London- violin; conducted by Enrico Intra. €20. Piccolo Teatro Studio Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • M2 Assago Fo- based international company dedicated to contemporary Melato, Largo Rivoli 6 • M2 Lanza, M1Cairoli rum (round-trip ticket to Assago Forum) European dramaturgy in open anti-Brexit controversy. €15, www.ticketone.it. Pacta Salone, Via Ulisse Dini 7 • M2 Ab- 6th December 2017: Wednesday 9th December 2017: Saturday biategrasso Chiesa Rossa 08.00–19.00: Street market. Antiques, arts and crafts 09.00–14.00: Farmers street market by Lombard pro- 21.00: Cuba show. market exhibition for collectors, hobbyists, and amateurs. ducers. Goat and cow cheeses, dairy products, bee pro- “Pasión de Buena Vista” Piazza Diaz, Via Gonzaga • M1 Duomo ducts, jams, meat eggs, fruit, vegetables, flour, bakery, rumba, mambo, cha cha 09.00–18.00: Lombard farmers’ 8 stalls market. Goat cereals, legumes, bread, wine, ornamental plants. Quality, cha and salsa, performed and cow cheeses, dairy and bee products, jams, meat eggs, freshness and respect for seasonal production, guaranteed by Felicita-Ethel Frias- fruit, vegetables, flour, bakery, cereals, legumes, bread, directly by those who produce them. Piazza Durante • M1, Pernia, Alfredo Montero- wine, ornamental plants. Quality, freshness and respect for M2 Loreto Mojena and Jose Guiller- seasonal production. Piazza Santa Francesca Romana • M1 15.30: Mini musical for children. “Lo Spettacolo di Na- mo Puebla Brizuela; with Porta Venezia tale.” Nativity scene, elves, toys, lights and sweets are just the Buena Vista Band di- 21.00: Live jazz festival premier world performance. some of the magics that will accompany us in this enchan- rected by Ramon Puebla; “Italian Way” performed by the Civica Jazz Band, with the ted world! Will the elf Natalino succeed in opening Nicolas choreography by Jose soloists Emilio Soana, trumpet; Andrea Andreoli, trombo- eyes making him believe that Santa Claus really exists? A Luis Rodriguez-Pena. Ca- ne; Giulio Visibelli, sax and flute; Marco Vaggi double bass; show for both the children and adults. €15; under 14 €11; liente rhythms, delicate Tony Arco, drums; and the guest Lydian Sound Orchestra, under 3 €4.50. Teatro Manzoni, Via Manzoni 42 • M3 Mon- dances, exotic beauties with Gianluca Carollo, trumpet, saxhorn; Roberto Rossi, tenapoleone and unforgettable melo- trombone; Robert Bonisolo, Mauro Negri, Rossano Emili, 16.30: Organ music. “Marche du Veilleur de Nuit” by dies on an authentic Cu- sax and clarinet; Giovanni Hoffer, horn; Glauco Benedetti, Charles-Marie Widor; “Variations sur un Noël angevin” by ban nights trip. €23/39, tuba; Paolo Birro, piano; Marc Abrams double bass; Mauro Gaston Litaize; “Pastorale” by Alexandre Guilmant; “Suite www.ticketone.it. Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vitto- Beggio, drums; Vivian Grillo, voice; conducted by Riccardo gothique” by Léon Boëllmann. Performed by Alessandro La rio, Assago(MI) • M2 Assago Forum (round-trip ticket to Brazzale. €20. Piccolo Teatro Studio Melato, Largo Rivoli 6 Ciacera, econd appointed organist. Admission free. Duomo, Assago Forum) • M2 Lanza, M1Cairoli Piazza Duomo • M1/3 Duomo 21.00: Chamber 21.00: Recital. Mu- music. Music by D. sic by Tchaikovsky; Šostakovič, Tchaikov- Overture in Eb major, page 5 sky, Dvořàk, Op. 49; Piano Con- Davydov; perfor- certo No. 1 in B-flat med by Erica Piccot- minor, Op. 23; Swan What’s on ti, cello; Roberto Lake, Suite, op. 20; December 2017 Arosio, piano. Ad- performed by the mission free. Audi- Stuttgarter Philhar- 17.15: Organ music. “The shepherds pathway”, a torium Gaber, Grat- moniker, with Lukas Christmas meditation with a brief lecture in Italian by Erika tacielo Pirelli, Regio- Geniušas piano; con- Renai, followed by an organ concert by Matteo Galli. Admis- ne Lombardia, Piaz- ducted by Toshiyuki sion free on a first-come.Basilica of Santa Maria presso San za Duca d’Aosta 3 • Kamioka. €25/30. Satiro, Via Torino 17 – 19 • M1/3 Duomo. M2/3 Centrale Conservatorio, Sala Verdi, Via Conserva- 21.00: Christmas 21.00: Contempo- torio 12 • M1 San show. A thrilling rary music. Perfor- Babila journey on board a med inside the only fantastic train, with Italian hall featured the most loved cha- with an Acusmo- 14th December 2017: Thursday racters of all time, nium Sator, with 50 08.00–19.00: Street market. Antiques, arts and crafts such as magic elves, loud speakers, a market exhibition for collectors, hobbyists, and amateurs. snowmen, toys and live concert held by Piazza Diaz, Via Gonzaga • M1 Duomo Santa Claus, full of the English perfor- 09.00: Lombard farmers’ 8 stalls market. Goat and cow surprises, amaze- mers Adam Asnan, cheeses, dairy products, bee products, jams, meat eggs, ment and much fun. €12/33. www.ticketone.it. Teatro del- followed by Luke fruit, vegetables, flour, bakery, cereals, legumes, bread, la Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • M2 Assago Younger. €6/8/12. Subscription to 6 concerts €36. Audito- wine, ornamental plants. Quality, freshness and respect for Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago Forum) rium San Fedele, Via Ulrico Hoepli 3b • M1 San Babila or seasonal production, guaranteed directly by those who pro- Duomo duce them. Piazza San Nazaro in Brolo 5 (Corso di Porta 10th December 2017: Sunday Romana) • M3 Missori 08.00–19.00: Street market. Old, antique, rare and col- 12th December 2017: Tuesday 15.00, 17.10, 19.20, 21.30: Film in English with Ita- lectible books for amateurs. Piazza Duomo, Piazza Diaz, Via 08.30-18.30. Farmers market. According to the Medi- lian subtitles. “The Big Sick,” directed by Michael Showal- Gonzaga, Via Baracchini • M1 Duomo terranean diet, organic, natural and traditional Lombardy ter; starring Kumail Nanjiani, Zoe Kazan. €5/7.50. Cinema 08.00-19.00: Street market. High quality arts and crafts farms selling organic rice and flour, chickens; Chianina and Mexico, Via Savona 57 • M2 Porta Genova F.S., tram 14 exhibition. Via Brera, Via Fiori Chiari, Via Fiori Oscuri • M2 various meat; cow and goat cheese; seasonal vegetables, 19.00: Happy hour. In support of “our four-legged frien- Lanza natural wine, jams, honey and derivatives, juices, fresh fru- ds” a tasty aperitif with regional products based on pasta, 13.00: Harness racing. Exploit Caf Award. €5; under 14 it. Piazza Sant’Eustorgio • M2 Lanza risotto, salami and Italian Dop cheeses, accompanied by a free; under 18, women and over 60 €1. Ippodromo del 15.00, 17.10, 19.20, 21.30: Film in English with Ita- careful selection of wines and cocktails. €10. More over it Trotto, Viale Piccolomini 2 • M5 San Siro Ippodromo lian subtitles. “The Big Sick,” directed by Michael Showal- will be possible to buy gadgets such as panettone, calen- ter; starring Kumail Nanjiani, Zoe Kazan. €5/7.50. Cinema dars, wines, etc. to support the National League for Dog De- 16.00: Symphony mu- Arcobaleno, Viale Tunisia 11 • M1 Porta Venezia fense. Admission free. Victum Milano, Piazza del Tricolore 4 sic. A selection of arias • M1 Porta Venezia + tram 9 about the “Romeo and Ju- th 21.00: Live choir. Music performed by Coro Bocconi. Ad- liet” myth; performed by 13 December 2017: Wednesday 09.00–18.00: Lombard farmers’ 8 stalls market. Goat mission free. Università Bocconi, Aula Magna, Via Gobbi 5 • Orchestra Sinfonica di Mi- M3 Porta Romana, tram 9,15; bus 79, 90, 91 lan Giuseppe Verdi, con- and cow cheeses, dairy products, bee products, jams, meat eggs, fruit, vegetables, flour, bakery, cereals, legumes, bre- ducted by Patrick Fournil- th lier. Auditorium di Milano, ad, wine, ornamental plants. Quality, freshness and respect 15 December 2017: Friday Largo Gustav Mahler 1 for seasonal production, guaranteed directly by those who 20.00: Symphony music. “Fratres,” for violin, string or- (Corso San Gottardo) • M1 produce them. Piazza Santa Francesca Romana • M1 Porta chestra and percussion by Pärt; “Sinfonia Concertante for Duomo + tram 3; M2 Por- Venezia Violin, Viola and Orchestra in E-flat major, K. 364”; “Violin courtesy Paolo Dalprato ta Genova + bus 59 18.00: Recital. Music by Scriabin, Lourié, Lombardi, Moso- Concerto No. 5 in A major, K. 219, The Turkish” and “Sym- lov; performed by Daniele Lombardi, piano. Admission free. phony No. 39 in Eb major” by Mozart; performed by Or- 16.30: Organ GAM, Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Via Palestro 16 • M1 Palestro chestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi, with Domenico concert. “Praelu- Nordio, violin; conducted by Maxim Rysanov. €16/36. Au- dium in d 4”, “Gal- ditorium di Milano, Largo Gustav Mahler 1 (Corso San Got- liarda in d 8”, “Ma- tardo) • M1 Duomo + tram 3; M2 Porta Genova + bus 59 gnificat VIII toni 8” 21.00: Live electronic. “The Bloody Beetroots” by Sir Bob by Scheidemann; Cornelius Rifo in his “My Name Is Thunder live tour”. €22 “In Te, Domine, Standing places only; €25 at the entrance. www.tiketone.it; speravi” by www.vivaticket.it. Fabrique, Via Gaudenzio Fantoli 9 Scheidt; “Canzona ex d 3” by 16th December 2017: Saturday Weckmann; „Nun 08.00-19.00: Street market. High quality arts and crafts komm der Heiden exhibition. Via Brera, Via Fiori Chiari, Via Fiori Oscuri • M2 Heiland BWV 599”, Lanza “Fughetta super 11.00-20.00: Open studio. Live performance by the pain- Nun komm der Heiden Heiland BWV 699”, “Toccata and ter Carlo Trevisan. Admission free. Carré d’artistes, Via Cu- Fuga BWV 538” by Bach; performed by Maurizio Croci, or- neo 5 • M1 Wagner gan. Admission with free contribution. Church of Santa 21.00: Christmas concert. Music by Praetorius, Bach, Maria della Passione, Via Conservatorio 16 • M1 San Babila Guilmant and traditional Christmas carols, with particular attention to the great English choral tradition; performed by 11th December 2017: Monday Carlo Centemeri, organ; and the vocal ensemble Dona No- bis, with Gian Francesco Amoroso, choral master. The con- 13.00, 15.20, 17.40, 20.00, 22.20: Film in English cert aims to introduce the spectators to the association Gra- with Italian subtitles. “The Big Sick,” directed by Michael tis and let them know about its activity supporting the disa- Showalter; starring Kumail Nanjiani, Zoe Kazan. €5/7.50. bled. Admission free. Church of Redentore, Via Palestrina Cinema Anteo, Via Milazzo 9 • M2 Moscova 5/7 • M1/2 Loreto 20.30: Chamber music. In 21.00: Christmas choirs. Three different choirs and one collaboration with the Universal orchestra with a various program; Martina Zambelli, con- Stockhausen And Friend; Kla- ductor. Super trouper, by Abba; Eight days a week, by The vierstücke nn. 7, 8, 9, 12, Tanze Beatles; Wishing and hoping, by B. Bacharach; Hark the Luzefa, and Tierkreis by herald, traditional Christmas carol; The lion sleeps tonight, Stockhausen; Prèmiere Rhapso- by The Tokens; performed by The Bloopers Choir. Andem die by Debussy; The seven Andem Vergin Maria; I tre Re dell’Oriente; Piccola Canta di 15.30: Mini musical for children. “Lo Spettacolo di Nata- brightness by Davies; perfor- Natale; Lilì Marleen; La Ballata del Soldato; performer by le.” Nativity scene, elves, toys, lights and sweets are just med by Vanessa Benelli Mosell, Coro Stella Alpina. Hua hua naca, traditional bolivian vil- some of the magics that will accompany us in this enchan- piano; Michele Marelli, clarinet. lancico; Eatneman vuelie; Baba yetu; Orinoco flows; Kia ted world! Will the elf Natalino succeed in opening Nicolas €10/20. MAC Auditorium, Piazza hora te marino; percome by Coro Bocconi with Meditlab Or- eyes making him believe that Santa Claus really exists? A Tito Lucrezio Caro 1 (Corso San chestra. Admission free on a first-come.Università Bocconi, show for both children and adults. €15; under 14 €11; un- Gottardo) • M1 Duomo + tram Aula Magna, Via Gobbi 5 • M3 Porta Romana + tram 9,15; der 3 €4.50. Teatro Manzoni, Via Manzoni 42 • M3 Monte- 3; M2 Porta Genova + bus 59 bus 79, 90, 91 napoleone 16.00: Symphony music. “Fratres,” for violin, string or- 19.30 Traditional Christmas concert. Music by Betta- chestra and percussion by Pärt; “Sinfonia Concertante for rini, Caccini, Cherubini, Donizetti, Franck, Gounod, Luzzi , Violin, Viola and Orchestra in E-flat major, K. 364”; “Violin Mascagni, Mercadante, Perosi, Saint-Saens and Schubert page 6 Concerto No. 5 in A major, K. 219, The Turkish” and “Sym- performed by the Associazione Concertistica Carmina et phony No. 39 in Eb major” by Mozart; performed by Or- Cantica conducted by Beatrice Bianco, and the Accademia chestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi, with Domenico Musica Festival Ensemble conducted by Stefano Seghedoni. What’s on Nordio, violin; conducted by Maxim Rysanov. €16/36. Au- Admission free on a first-come basis.Duomo, Piazza Duomo December 2017 ditorium di Milano, Largo Gustav Mahler 1 (Corso San Got- • M1/3 Duomo tardo) • M1 Duomo + tram 3; M2 Porta Genova + bus 59 16.00: Recital. “Echoes of Spain” performed by Cinzia Mi- 17.00: Live Christmas choir. “Oratorio Jephte” by Giaco- 20.30: Orchestral lani, classical guitar. Admission on a first-come basis, with mo Carissimi, “Giuseppe figlio di Giacobbe” by Luigi Rossi; music. “Messiah” by annual membership card €2, or with annual subscription €50. performed by the Choirs of the Civic School of Music Claudio Händel; performed by Fondazione Luciana Matalon, Foro Buonaparte 67 • M1 Cairoli. Abbado; with Francesco Girardi, teacher of the choir; con- Orchestra La Barocca; 16.45: Christmas concert. Music by Johann Pachelbel, ducted by Mario Valsecchi. Admission free. Church of San conducted by Ruben Johann Walther e Johann Sebastian Bach; performed by Fedele, Piazza San Fedele 4 • M1/3 Duomo, M1 San Babila Jais. €10/25. Audito- Roberto Bonetto, organ. Following Renaissance chapel re- rium di Milano, Largo pertoire by Dufay, Guerrero, de Victoria; performed by the 17.00: Recital. Mu- Gustav Mahler 1 (Cor- harmony chorus Gruppo Vocale S. Bernardo. Admission free sic by Corelli, Tartini, so San Gottardo) • on a first-come basis. Basilica of San Vincenzo in Prato, Bach, Grieg, Rossini, M1 Duomo + tram 3; Piazzetta Beria di Argentine corner of via San Calocero • Vivaldi; performed by M2 Porta Genova + M3 Crocetta I Solisti Veneti; with bus 59 17.15: Organ music. “Wave of hope”, a Christmas medi- Salvatore Accardo, tation with a brief lecture in Italian by Erika Renai, following Laura Gorna, Ana Tifu 20.30: Christmas concert. “Tribute to Miles” the entire organ concert by Matteo Galli. Admission free on a first- and Edoardo Zosi, Kind of Blue masterpiece album reworked for a big band, come. Basilica of Santa Maria presso San Satiro, Via Torino violin; Giuseppe Ba- with music tracks such as So What, Freddie Freeloader, Blue 17–19 • M1/3 Duomo. rutti, cello; conducted in Green, All Blues, Flamenco Sketches, Tutu, What it is; 20.30: Orchestral pop music. Napolitan music by Ales- by Claudio Scimone. performed by the twenty elements of the Giuseppe Verdi sandro Cerino; perfomed by Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano €15/30. The evening’s Conservatorio di Milano Jazz Orchestra, with soloist Paolo Giuseppe Verdi, with Trio Jazz and acting voice by Antonio proceeds will be de- Fresu, trumpet; conducted by Pino Jodice. The entire pro- Lubrano; conduced by Alessandro Cerino, soloist. €15/35. volved for 2 scho- ceeds will be donated in support of the Opera San Francesco Auditorium di Milano, Largo Gustav Mahler 1 (Corso San larships to young mu- for the Poor onlus, daily engaged to help poor and margina- Gottardo) • M1 Duomo + tram 3; M2 Porta Genova + bus 59 sicians. Conservato- lized people. €11/60, www.ticketone.it. Teatro Dal Verme, rio, Sala Verdi, Via Conservatorio 12 • M1 San Babila Via San Giovanni sul Muro 2 • M1 Cairoli 17th December 2017: Sunday 17.30: Lega A basket. EA7 Milano versus Red October 20.45: Euroleague basket. EA7 Milano versus Baskonia Cantù. Mediolanum Forum, Via Di Vittorio 6. Assago (MI) Vitoria Gasteiz. Mediolanum Forum, Via Di Vittorio 6. As- • M2 Assago Forum (buy a “Milan-AssagoForum round-trip sago (MI) • M2 Assago Forum (buy a “Milan-AssagoForum 08.00–19.00: Street ticket”) round-trip ticket”) market. Antiques, 21.00: Symphony music. Music by Mozart. Symphony No. arts and crafts market th 1 in Eb major, K. 16; Concerto for two pianos in E-flat major, exhibition for collec- 18 December 2017: Monday 20.30: Orchestral music. Music by Šostakovič and Men- K. 365; Symphony No. 38 in D major, K. 504. €25/30. Con- tors, hobbyists, and delssohn; performed by Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giu- servatorio, Sala Verdi, Via Conservatorio 12 • M1 San Babila amateurs. Piazza seppe Verdi, with Matilde Agosti, cello; conducted by Mas- 21.00: Live pop. A tribute to Michael Jackson; performed Diaz, Via Gonzaga • similiano Caldi. €10/20. Auditorium di Milano, Largo Gustav by Sergio Cortes. €20/50. www.ticketone.it. Teatro degli M1 Duomo Mahler 1 (Corso San Gottardo) • M1 Duomo + tram 3; M2 Arcimboldi, Viale dell’Innovazione 20 • M5 Bicocca Porta Genova + bus 59 09.00–17.00: Lombard farmers’ 8 stalls market. Goat 21st December 2017: Thursday 21.00: Chamber mu- Winter solstice and cow cheeses, ricotta, dairy products, bee products, sic. Music by Chopin, jams, preserves, meat, eggs, fruit, vegetables, flour, bake- Puccini, Verdi, Donizetti, ry, cereals, wine, ornamental plants. Quality, freshness and Liszt, Massenet, Masca- respect for seasonal production, guaranteed directly by tho- gni; performed by Sara se who produce them. Via Chiesa Rossa, Via San Domenico Rossini, soprano; Hun Savio 3 • M2 Abbiategrasso Kim, tenor; Takiro Yoshi- 09.00-19.00: Street mar- kawa, piano. Admission ket. Furniture, watches, free. Auditorium Gaber, china, silverware, jewelry, Grattacielo Pirelli, Regio- dolls, games, collectibles, ne Lombardia, Piazza books, glasses, radio, bron- Duca d’Aosta 3 • M2/3 zes, glasses, comics and Centrale prints; restaurants, activi- 21.00: Live rock. Stadio. €29/40. Teatro Dal Verme, Via ties for children. Alzaia Na- San Giovanni sul Muro 2 • M1 Cairoli viglio Grande (from Viale Gorizia to Via Valenza ) • 08.00–19.00: Street market. Antiques, arts and crafts M2 Porta Genova, tram 9 19th December 2017: Tuesday 08.00-19.00: Street market. High quality arts and crafts market exhibition for collectors, hobbyists, and amateurs. 09.30-17.00: Street market. Market exhibition for col- exhibition. Via Brera, Via Fiori Chiari, Via Fiori Oscuri • M2 Piazza Diaz, Via Gonzaga • M1 Duomo lectors, hobbyists, demonstrations and amateur creative Lanza 09.00: Lombard farmers’ 8 stalls market. Goat and cow activities. Books, cartoons, comics, collectors’ items, toys, 08.30-18.30. Farmers market. According to the Medi- cheeses, dairy products, bee products, jams, meat eggs, games, records, curiosities.... Parco Ravizza, Viale Toscana, terranean diet, organic, natural and traditional Lombardy fruit, vegetables, flour, bakery, cereals, legumes, bread, Via Bocconi, Viale Bach, Viale Brahms Via Vittadini • bus 79, farms selling organic rice and flour, chickens; Chianina and wine, ornamental plants. Quality, freshness and respect for filobus 90-91 various meat; cow and goat cheese; seasonal vegetables, seasonal production, guaranteed directly by those who pro- natural wine, jams, honey and derivatives, juices, fresh fru- duce them. Piazza San Nazaro in Brolo 5 (Corso di Porta it. Piazza Sant’Eustorgio • M2 Lanza Romana) • M3 Missori 13.00: Harness racing. Quaker Jet Award. €5; under 14 19.45: Aperitif and concert. A meeting and a drink with free; under 18, women and over 60 €1. Ippodromo del the public. Follwing at 20.45: Christmas concert. “Christmas Trotto, Viale Piccolomini 2 • M5 San Siro Ippodromo Oratorio” Part 1-3 by Bach. €15, over 65 €10, under 16 21.00: Live crossover classical pop. Peter Bence. €25/38. free, discounts for families. www.happyticket.it. Palazzina Teatro Dal Verme, Via San Giovanni sul Muro 2 • M1 Cairoli Liberty, Largo Marinai d’Italia • Passante Ferroviario Dateo 21.00: Live pop. Elio e le Storie Tese. Mediolanum Forum, Via Di Vittorio 6. Assago (MI) • M2 Assago Forum (buy a “Milan-AssagoForum round-trip ticket”) Please note Opening times and fees written in this What’s On 20th December 2017: Wednesday 09.00–18.00: Lombard farmers’ 8 stalls market. Goat could change without notice. and cow cheeses, dairy products, bee products, jams, meat Occasionally organisers may modify or even eggs, fruit, vegetables, flour, bakery, cereals, legumes, bre- cancel an event. Wherever possible, we give this ad, wine, ornamental plants. Quality, freshness and respect information in our website www.hellomilano.it. 13.00: Harness racing. Manofmanymissions Award. €5; for seasonal production, guaranteed directly by those who under 14 free; under 18, women and over 60 €1. Ippodro- produce them. Piazza Santa Francesca Romana • M1 Porta mo del Trotto, Viale Piccolomini 2 • M5 San Siro Ippodromo Venezia continued on page 11 Pull out and keep this central page with essential information and the city map

page 7 • Changing money • Driving, parking Banks: open Mon-Fri, circa 8.30-13.30; 14.45-15.45. Whenever you leave your car unattended, make sure that Useful information Money changing shops in Piazza Duomo, Piazza Scala, there are no bags, cameras, wallets etc. in sight inside. To Via Orefici, Via Dante, the Central Station and the airports. enter the city centre (the area within the socalled “Cerchia Post office Money can also be changed at the central dei Bastioni”, a circular area which, to give you an idea, starts from Porta Venezia on one side, Piazza XXIV Maggio • Airports post office, Piazza Cordusio 1 (MM1 Cordusio, see under Postage), and a few other post offices: Via Spinola 10 (MM1 on the other), you have to pay a tariff in the Area C system, Malpensa (airport code MXP): Terminal 1 is used by most Amendola), Via Moscova 30 (MM2 Moscova), Central Sta- about €5 per entrance. The Area C system operates Mon- of the major airlines. Terminal 2 is much smaller. General tion post office, and at Linate airport. Fri, 7.30-19.30. For further information, click on the Area C airport information: tel. +3902232323 (call centre). www. Best rates are in the post offices, followed by banks. banner on the website www.comune.milano.it. milanomalpensa-airport.com; www.sea-aeroportimilano.it. Petrol stations in the city close for lunch, Saturday after- Transport to Malpensa: “Malpensa Express” train service • Lombardy lakes noons and Sunday. There are a few self-service pumps in from Stazione Cadorna railway station. Trains run from 4.27 Lago di Como the city. Motorway service stations are open 24 hrs a day. to 23.27 approximately every half-hour, with extra trips The famous lakeside To park in the streetside areas marked by blue lines, you outside these times by bus. Journey time 40 mins. www. city is just an hour from need to buy a SostaMilano card, on sale at the “ATM Point” malpensaexpress.it www.trenord.it. Milan by train, and so in the Duomo metro station (open Mon-Sat 7.45-20.15), “Malpensa Shuttle” coach service runs every 20 minutes it is an attractive pos- and in Cadorna, Centrale F.S., Loreto and Romolo metro (fewer trips early and late) from 4.27 until 23.27, from Mi- sibility for a day’s ex- stations, as well as in many bars and tobacconists. lan Central Station, Piazza Luigi di Savoia. €8. Approx 50 cursion. The service The cards are also sold directly by the attendants near the minutes. www.malpensashuttle.it. “A Friend in Milan” will parking areas (they have uniforms and ID cards). You mark The “Malpensa Bus Express” coach service runs every 20- take you there by car the start of stay on the card by scratching the year, month, 30 minutes from 4.30 to 23.00, from Milan Central Station, or by train. If you want day, and time. Various privately-run carparks also exist Piazza IV Novembre. €8. Approx 60 minutes. Info: www. to do it yourself, take a (blue P sign). If you are driving into Milan, you can use the autostradale.it. train from the Stazione multistorey car parks at the Metro stations Cascina Gobba, Train from the Central Station from 05.25 to 23.25. Nord station, in Piazza Famagosta, Bisceglie, Molino Dorino and Lampugnano, open Malpensa-Linate coach service: 5 trips a day from 9.30 to Cadorna, to Como Lago, a station positioned right on the 6.00-01.00, the cheapest parking in the city. Don’t leave 16.30 approx, journey time 70 minutes, €13, info www. lakeside www.lenord.it. From here, ferries and hydrofoils your car in areas marked by the tow-away symbol, or in malpensashuttle.it/mxp-lin.htm. Milan-Malpensa by taxi: will take you all over the lake, and a bus to Bellagio of- areas marked by yellow lines (areas reserved for residents). €85, 45 to 75 minutes. The €85 price is a fixed charge as fers a cheap and picturesque alternative to boat transport. If your car should be clamped or towed away, you will have long as you go direct, no intermediate stops. Info from the Como tourist office, tel. 031.3300.128, www. to contact the Polizia Locale (traffic wardens), whose offices Linate (airport code LIN): General information: tel. lakecomo.com, [email protected]. Ferry info www.navigazi- are in Piazza Beccaria 19 (MM1/3 Duomo), tel. 02.02.08. +3902232323 (call centre). www.milanolinate-airport.com; onelaghi.it Keep dipped headlights on during the daytime. www.sea-aeroportimilano.it. Transport to Linate: bus n° 73, from Corso Europa/Piazza Lago Maggiore • European Emergency Tel. Number 112. San Babila. Use the normal bus (“ATM”) ticket €1,50 see In case of stolen goods or documents, you will need to con- Public transport. The journey takes 25 minutes; Linate air- It is the second tact the police station, Questura, in Via Fatebenefratelli 11 port is 7 km from the city centre. The bus runs from 5.35 largest lake in It- (M3 Turati), tel. 02.62.261. to 00.35. aly, extended for A coach service runs from the Central Station, Piazza Luigi about 65 kilome- • Guided tours tres (40 miles). di Savoia, every half-hour approx. from 5.30 to 22.45. Jour- Personalized tours are offered by “A Friend in Milan” (see The climate is ney time 25 minutes. €5. By taxi from the city centre, €50 space last page) or www.friendinmilan.co.uk. mild both in sum- circa. “Autostradale” runs a three-hour coach tour every day ex- mer and winter, Orio al Serio (near Bergamo, airport code BGY): Call cept Mondays, starting at 9.30, in Piazza Duomo (in front of producing Medi- centre +39035326323, www.orioaeroporto.it. the Cathedral). It includes a visit to the Last Supper, and to terranean vege- Transport to Orio al Serio: a coach service run by Auto- the most important monuments. Cost €55 per person. Info tation, with many stradale leaves from Milan Central Station, Piazza Luigi di at www.autostradale.it. gardens growing Savoia, every day, from 02.45 to 23.15 every 30-40 min- “Zani Viaggi” runs a coach sightseeing. Info from their office rare and exotic plants. Well-known gardens include those utes. The trip takes 1 hour. €5. www.orioshuttle.com; www. in Foro Bonaparte 76, tel. 02.867.131, www.zaniviaggi.it. of the Borromean and Brissago Islands, the Villa Taranto in autostradale.it. By taxi: around €95. The “Centro Guide” provides official guides for tours for up Verbania, and the Alpinia botanical garden above Stresa. to 25 people, in various languages. Tel. 02.8645.0433, or “A Friend in Milan” will take you there by car or by train. • Campsite www.centroguidemilano.net. If you want to do it yourself, take a train from the Stazi- The “Camping Village Città di Milano” is in Via Airaghi 61 The “Associazione Castelli & Ville” runs excursions to castles one Stazione Centrale or Stazione Porta Garibaldi to Stresa tel. 02.48.207.017. Tents, campers, caravans. It is next to and villas in Lombardy, with coach transport, lunch, and www.lenord.it. From here, ferries and hydrofoils will take a waterpark, and it offers various sports facilities. tour of the castle or villa (in Italian). Info tel. 02.6558.9231, you all over the lake. http://http://www.navigazionelaghi. See http://www.campingmilano.it/en/home.php. 347.4830.009. www.castellieville.it it/eng/index.asp

Consulates

Albania Piazza Duomo, 17 tel. 02.86.46.74.23 Ghana Via Soperga 6 tel. 02.6696.440 Netherlands Via San Vittore 45 tel. 02.4855.841 Algeria Via Rovello 11 tel. 02.72.00.32.66 Greece Via Turati 6 tel. 02.653.775 New Zealand Via Terraggio 17 tel. 02.7217.0001 Argentina Via Agnello 2 tel. 02.7772.9420 Guatemala Via Verro 90 tel. 02.5358.239 Nicaragua Via Masotto 21 tel. 02.70.00.69.78 Australia Via Borgogna 2 tel. 02 776 74217 Guinea Via Cechov 50 tel. 02.3340.2183 Norway Piazza Castello 20 tel. 02.874.234 Austria Piazza Liberty, 8/4 tel. 02.7631.6105 Haiti Piazza Duomo 19 tel. 02.8646.4016 Pakistan Via Pisani 8 tel. 02.36.51.27.06 Bangladesh Piazza Missori 3 tel. 02.8055.353 Honduras Via Rosolino Pilo 19/b tel. 02.3653.5614 Panama Via Montenapoleone 23 tel. 02.7600.5220 Belgium Via Turati 12 tel. 02.2906.2062 Hungary Via Gasparotto 1 tel. 02.6738.0115 Paraguay Via V. Monti 79/3 tel. 02.4815.532 Bolivia Viale Elvezia 10 tel. 02.3319.127 Iceland Via Vitali 2 tel. 02.78.36.40 Peru Via Bracco 1 tel. 02.66.80.96.17 Bosnia-Herzegovina Via Galvani 21 tel. 02.6698.2707 India Via Larga 16 tel. 02.8057.691 Philippines Via Stromboli 1 tel. 02.4398.0383 Brazil Corso Europa 12 tel. 02.777.107 Iran Piazza Diaz 6 tel. 02.860.646 Poland Corso Vercelli 56 tel. 02.4801.8978 C. African Rep. Via Asiago 43 tel. 02.2578.297 Ivory Coast Via Pagliano 35 tel. 02.4985.172 Portugal Viale Beatrice d’Este 1 tel. 02.6698.6480 Chile Via S. Pietro all’Orto 11 tel. 02.7601.6070 Japan Via Mangili 2/4 tel. 02.6241.141 Romania Via Gignese 2 tel. 02.4007.4023 China Via Benaco 4 tel. 02.5520.306 Jordan Via Fieno 3 tel. 02.8692.903 Russia Fed. Via S. Aquilino 3 tel. 02.4870.6041 Colombia Foro Buonaparte 12 tel. 02.7200.3872 Kazhakistan Piazza Diaz 7 tel. 02.7200.1718 San Marino Via San Martino 12 tel. 02.5830.1172 Croatia Via Dante 9 tel. 02.8051.772 Korea Piazza della Repubblica 11/a tel. 02.2906.2641 Serbia Via Serao 1 tel. 02.48.17.247 Cuba Via Pirelli 30 tel. 02.6739.1344 Kuwait Via Turati 40 tel. 02.29.06.29.76 Seychelles Via Caldesi 6 tel. 02.66.22.35.22 Cyprus Via Ampère 112 tel. 02.2896.232 Latvia Piazza Bertarelli 1 tel. 02.72.08.07.76 Slovakia Piazzale Lugano 9 tel. 02.39.32.58.66 Czech Republic Via Morgagni 20 tel. 02.2940.3051 Lebanon Via Larga 26 tel. 02.8645.4540 South Africa Vic. S. Giovanni sul Muro 4 tel. 02.8858.581 Denmark Via Ariosto 30 tel. 02.4801.2007 Lesotho Via Durini 2 tel. 02.7600.9104 Spain Via Fatebenefratelli 26 tel. 02.6328.831 Dominican Rep. Corso Buenos Aires 64 tel. 02.2024.0965 Libya Via Baracchini 7 tel. 02.8646.4285 Sweden Via San Paolo 7 tel. 02.86.91.52.66 Egypt Via Porpora 26 tel. 02.2951.0352 Lithuania Via Boccaccio 27 tel. 02.45409686 Switzerland Via Palestro 2 tel. 02.77.79.161 Eire Piazza S. Pietro in Gessate 2 tel. 02.5518.8848 Madagascar Via Ariberto 15 tel. 02.8321.768 Tanzania Via Santa Sofia 12 tel. 02.5830.7126 El Salvador Via Botta 19 tel. 02.5501.7890 Malaysia Via V. Pisani 31 tel. 02.6698.1839 Thailand Viale Berengario 15 tel. 02.460.299 Eritrea Via Temperanza 4 tel. 02.28.24.834 Malta Largo Porto Classe 8 tel. 02.7010.2237 Tunisia Viale Bianca Maria 8 tel. 02.5463.499 Ethiopia Via Leopardi, 28 tel. 02.43.90.193 Mauritius Piazza Velasca 5 tel. 02.80.55.051 Turkey Via Larga 19 tel. 02.58.21.201 Finland Foro Buonaparte 53 tel. 02.3191.071 Mexico Via Cappuccini 4 tel. 02.7602.0541 U. K Via San Paolo, 7 tel. 02.723.001 France Via Mangili 1 tel. 02.655.9141 Moldavia Via Mascheroni 23 tel. 02.4801.0473 Ukraine Via Maria Teresa 8 tel. 02.86.98.48.63 Gabon Via L. di Breme 48 tel. 02.3800.7202 Monaco Via Saffi 34 tel. 02.4801.2038 Uruguay Piazza Diaz 6 tel. 02.8056.786 Gambia Via Fontana 4 tel. 02.5411.6012 Morocco Via Martignoni 10 tel. 02.66.80.69.19 U. S. A. Via Principe Amedeo 2/10 tel. 02.290.351 Germany Via Solferino 40 tel. 02.623.1101 Namibia Via Macchi 30 tel. 02.80.40.41 Venezuela Largo Toscanini 1 tel. 02.7600.2170 Simplified map Simplified map

page 8/9

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ri stei i b o n o ria La Dateo V t tan viale Umbria viale Piceno viale dei Mille zio • Original language books FNM (Ferrovie Nord) Melting Pot, via Vettabbia 3, tel. 02 5831 0713 Is the privately-run train service running from Stazione American Bookstore, Via Camperio 16 (M1 Cairoli), Fel- Nord in Piazza Cadorna. An info office is in the Cadorna sta- page 10 trinelli, Via Manzoni 12 (M1/3 Duomo). tion, open 7.00 to 20.00 every day. www.lenord.it Biblioteca di Anglistica, Piazza S. Alessandro 1, tel. Ferrovie Nord trains leave from Cadorna and run to various 02.5031.3567, open to the public 10.00-17.00 Mon-Thurs. locations north of Milan, including the lakes and Malpensa Useful information http://www.sba.unimi.it/Biblioteche/lingue/7156.html airport. See www.lenord.it

• Personal identity • Safety and security • Horseracing tracks It is a good idea to have your passport or ID card with you In Milan, like most large cities, there is a problem of small “San Siro Galoppo” (flat racing course) Via Caprilli/Piazzale at all times, as you may be asked for it in the most surpris- time theft. Take care of personal possessions at all times! dello Sport; “San Siro Trotto” (harness racing stadium) just ing of situations (using a library, Internet café, etc.) Don’t leave your bags unattended even for a moment, opposit in Piazzale dello Sport. www.trenno.it; www.ippo- particularly in crowded locations like Piazza Duomo and dromimilano.it • Postage Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. Also take care in and around Post offices are marked with a yellow “PT” sign. The central the Central Station, and when on trams and metro dur- • Information resources post office for letters, parcels etc. is in Via Cordusio 4, open ing the rush hour. If, at the station or airport, someone Mon-Fri 8.00-19.00; Sat 8.30-12.00, Sun closed. The post approaches you and offers you a taxi, this is not the nor- American Chamber of Commerce, Via Cantù 1, office is for postal account payments, money changing etc. mal taxi and it will cost much more. This is happening tel. 02.8690.661, www.amcham.it. Austrian Cultural Insti- Most other post offices are open in the morning only, Mon- particularly at Linate airport, the taxi turns out to be a tute, Piazza Liberty 8, tel. 02.78.37.41/2, includes a library. Fri 8.00-14.00, Sat 9.30-13.00. Stamps are also available chauffeur-driven car with a bill to match. Beware of buying British Council, Via Manzoni 38, tel. 02.77.22.21, at tobacconists (T sign). Italian first day covers and other fake merchandise on the street, it will be low quality and www.britishcouncil.it, language courses, UK university and philatelic products are sold at Via Cordusio 4. Post informa- it’s also against the law. People selling roses in restaurants school info, special events. Library for course students only. tion, tel. 803160, Mon-Sat, 8.00-20.00, www.poste.it. have nothing to do with the restaurant, just say no (unless British Chamber of Commerce, Via Dante 12, tel. you want one, of course!). If you give money to the many 02.877798, www.britchamitaly.com, helps start up, build • Public transport beggars in the city and on the Metro trains you are financ- and run businesses in Italy, and has an extensive range of ATM. Runs metro, buses and trams. Ordinary tickets cost ing organized crime. social activities. €1.50 and can be obtained in Metro stations (newsagents, United States Study Centre (Centro per gli Stu- automatic machines, ticket offices in some stations), and • Taxis di degli Stati Uniti - CSSU), Piazza Sant’Alessandro 1, tel. from bars displaying the green and orange ATM sticker on It is almost impossible to stop a taxi on the street in Milan: 02.5835.3593, a library (part of another library in the State the window. Weekly, monthly or yearly season tickets are you have to locate one of the taxi-ranks (see map pages), or University premises) open to the public 10.00-17.00 Mon- available. call one of the radio taxi firms (02.4040, 02.8585, 02.4000, Thurs, http://users.unimi.it/cssu/. 02.6969). A few taxis accept credit cards. If in doubt about ATM Infopoint are in Duomo, Cadorna, Centrale, Lo- price, ask the driver for an estimate before setting off. On- , Palazzo delle Stelline, Centre Culturel Français reto and Romolo Metro stations, open Mon-Sat 7.45-19.00. line estimates at www.milanotaxi.it Corso Magenta 63, tel. 02.485.91.91, multimedia library The ordinary ticket should be franked using the machine • Telephones open Mon-Fri 10-19, closed Sat and Sun, French language as soon as you get on a bus or tram, or go through the Met- The 02 dialling code for Milan is incorporated into phone films, French courses courses organized. ro turnstiles, or before getting on an FNM train. The same numbers. If you are calling Italy from abroad, you have to ticket can be used for 90 minutes from the time franked on Goethe Institut, Via San Paolo 10, tel. 02.7769.171, include the “0” of this prefix, ie +39.02.(number). Num- the ticket, with any combination of buses and trams. library (see website for opening times), with over 20,000 bers starting 339, 347, 348 etc. are for mobile phones, The magnetic ticket should be franked on every journey. books, magazines, newspapers, cassettes, videos, CDs; these calls cost more. Numbers starting with 0 are for fixed The one-day ticket (abbonamento giornaliero, €4.50) and courses, cinema, www.goethe.de/mailand. phones, 1 for public utilities (police etc.), 3 for mobiles, 8 the two-day ticket (abbonamento bigiornaliero, €8.25) Instituto Cervantes, Via Dante 12, tel.02.72.02.34.50, for toll-free numbers. courses, films, library, http://milan.cervantes.es. last 24/48 hours respectively from the first franking: frank the magnetic ticket on every journey. The Metro system • Ticket info • Left luggage consists of 5 lines, number 1 (red), 2 (green), 3 (yellow), 5 (lilac) and the “Passante Ferroviario” (S trains). Teatro alla Scala Central Station, Piazza Duca d’Aosta, Deposito Bagagli Metro trains run from around 6.15 until 00.30, except on In Duomo metro station, open every day 12.00-18.00 (ground floor). Open every day, 06.00-23.00. Saturday nights when trains run till about 02.00. During the (closed public holidays and August). Payment cash or by night there is a replacement bus service for parts of lines 1 credit card. For information on availability, phone the Scala • Lost property and 3. There are large interchange car parks at the stations Infotel Service, tel. 02.7200.3744, from 9.00 to 18.00, eve- In the City Milan City Council lost property office: Via Lampugnano, Bisceglie (M1), Cascina Gobba, Famagosta ry day. To buy tickets by phone – up to two weeks before Friuli 30, Mon-Fri 8.30-16.00, tel. 02.8845.3900. This is (M2), open 7.00-01.00 (overnight parking possible). To get the performance – tel. 02.860.775. This is a computerized where items lost on buses, trams and metro end up, and to the Rho Fiera trade fair district during fairs you can buy a system operating at all times, in English, Italian, German it is also the final destination for documents found in the return ticket at €5 (Andata/ritorno Rho Fiera) or a day ticket and French. Credit card number and tone-type telephone street and put into post boxes. http://www.comune.milano. (Giornaliero fiera) €7. The normal one or two day ticket is essential. On line: www.teatroallascala.org. Credit card it/wps/portal/ist/en. not valid for getting to Rho Fiera. For public transport info, only, 20% surcharge. In trains For property lost on trains, the relevant office toll-free info at 800.808181 (7.30-19.30), www.atm-mi.it. Concerts is in the Central Station, within the Left Luggage office (De- Radiobus service, operating from 20.00 to 02.00, is like a Ricordi Mediastore, Via Ugo Foscolo 3 near Galleria Vittorio posito Bagagli). Tel. 02.8845.3900. http://www.milanocen- collective taxi service. A very comfortable air-conditioned Emanuele (M1/3 Duomo), tel. 02 86.46.02.72 trale.it/en/service/detail/oggetti-smarriti1. minicoach picks you up and takes you where you want to Mondadori Multicenter, Piazza Duomo 1 (M1/3 Duomo), tel. go. You have to book by phone at 02.4803.4803, prefer- 02.89.01.01.74. In taxi. If you leave something in a taxi, you may have a ably well in advance – say a few hours – or even just before Mondadori Multicenter, Via Marghera 28 (M1 Wagner), tel. chance of getting it back if you have the receipt for the taxi your trip, but in this case you run the risk of not getting 02.48.04.71 ride (which has the taxi’s ID on it) and the phone number a place as well as spending ages listening to a recorded La Feltrinelli, Piazza Piemonte 2 (M1 Wagner), tel. of the radio-paging service. So it’s a good idea to ask for a message. Cost €4 if you pay on the bus, less if you buy the 199.151.173. receipt whenever you use a taxi! ticket (ordinary ATM ticket + Radiobus ticket, total €3.50) Touring, Corso Italia 19 (M3 Missori), tel. 02.85.26.304 in advance. This service may seem complicated, but it is so On line there may be a booking charge of about 10%. On- • Medical services convenient and comfortable that it’s well worth the effort. line ticket sales: www.ticketone.it, www.ticketweb.it, www. Ambulance phone 118. vivaticket.it. Italian Red Cross (ambulance): phone 02.3883. Doctors • Railways on call for problems that would normally be handled by FS (Ferrovie dello Stato). • Tourist offices the family doctor: available Mon-Fri, Sun 20.00-8.00, Sat Train information can be obtained from the information of- • Hotels 14.00-20.00, tel. 02.34.567. NB in case of emergencies, fice at the Central Station (Stazione Centrale), or by phone, IAT, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, corner Piazza Scala • always use the 118 number. 892021, or best of all by Internet (www. trenitalia.com). M1/3 Duomo. Tel. 0288455555. Open Mon-Fri 9.00-20.00, Hospitals: Remember that open date train tickets should be franked Sun and holidays.09.00 -18.00. This office provides free Fatebenefratelli, Corso di Porta Nuova 23, tel. 02.63.631, using the yellow machines situated at the near end of the information on what to see and do in the city, with leaf- 02.6363.2442. platforms, just before boarding the train. A return ticket lets, maps etc. See also www.visitamilano.it; www.tusimo. Ophthalmic emergency dept, Corso di Porta Nuova 23, tel. should be franked again before the return journey. If you milano.it; www.booking.com/Milano/Hotel 02.6363.2239. forget, you will be fined! If you do forget, try the option to Maggiore Policlinico, Via Francesco Sforza 28-35, tel. write date and time of your journey in a corner of the ticket, • Youth hostel 02.55031, 02.5503.3209, 02.5503.3434. using a pen. If you booked a seat, on your ticket the date is Ostello della Gioventù “Piero Rotta”, Viale Angelo Sal- Niguarda Ca’ Granda, piazza Ospedale Maggiore 3, tel. already printed, so it is not necessery to franke it. moiraghi, 1 (M1 Rho), entrance from Viale Salmoiraghi 1. 02.644.41. For many trains, seat booking is obligatory. In any case it is Tel. 02.3926.7095, Open 24 hours a day. Family rooms Obstetric/gynaecological emergency dept, Via Macedo- a good idea to buy your ticket early (at least the day before) available for families with minors. Some rooms have a pri- nio Melloni 52, tel. 02.6363.3220. and book your seat (small extra charge). Saves frustration vate bathroom, other shared bathrooms. Free WiFi and Sat- Pharmacies queuing while your train is about to depart. Be sure to claim ellite TV. Membership card needed, available in hostel. Max A convenient place in which to find advice on minor com- your booked seat within ten minutes after departure. For 14 nights stay (3 nights when full). plaints, as staff are medically trained. The Central Station the differently abled and people with sight problems, there www.hihostels.com/it/hostels/milano-milan-piero-rotta pharmacy is open 24 hours a day, currently on the ground is a phone number for the whole of Italy: 199.30.30.60, www.hostelbookers.com/Milano floor on the right-hand side of the station. operating every day, 7.00-21.00. www.ostellionline.org, [email protected]. 24.00: Christmas Vigil Mass. Presided over by the Car- jugglers, equilibrists and musicians, some of them prized dinal Archbishop of Milan and music sung by the Scholae with prestigious awards, world-famous, performing incre- Cantorum Cathedral choir. Duomo, Piazza Duomo • M1/3 dible numbers. €33/66. www.tiketone.it; www.vivaticket.it. page 11 Duomo Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • M2 Assago Milanofiori Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago 25th December 2017: Monday Forum) What’s on Christmas Day December 2017 11.00: Pontificial Mass. Presided over by the Cardinal 30th December 2017: Saturday continued from page 6 Archbishop of Milan and music sung by the Scholae Canto- 18.00: Acrobatic circus. “Alis. Christmas Gala” 2 hours rum Cathedral choir. Duomo, Piazza Duomo • M1/3 Duomo without breaks, with contemporary circus excellence, 26 artists performing on air and ground numbers: acrobats, 21.00: Symphony music. I Pomeriggi Musicali orche- th jugglers, equilibrists and musicians, some of them prized stra, with Giuseppe Gibboni; conducted by Giancarlo Rizzi. 26 December 2017: Tuesday with prestigious awards, world-famous, performing incre- €9/20. Teatro Dal Verme, Via San Giovanni sul Muro 2 • St. Stephen’s Day dible numbers. €33/66. www.tiketone.it; www.vivaticket.it. M1 Cairoli 13.00: Harness racing. Cornish Cris-Memorial Prize Luigi Canzi Award. €5; under 14 free; under 18, women and over Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • M2 Assago Milanofiori Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago nd 60 €1. Ippodromo del Trotto, Viale Piccolomini 2 • M5 San 22 December 2017: Friday Siro Ippodromo Forum) 08.00–19.00: Street market. Collecting modern art, an- tiques, vintage for hobbyists and amateurs. Via Spallanzani 31st December 2017: Sunday • M1 Porta Venezia New Year’s Eve 20.30: Christmas choir. “Gloria” by Vivaldi; and holy mu- 18.00: Acrobatic circus. “Alis - Christmas Gala” 2 hours sic by Rutter, Couperin, Willcocks, Leontovich, Rathbone; without breaks, with contemporary circus excellence, 26 performed by Pietro Cavedon, piano; and La Verdi Choir artists performing on air and ground numbers: acrobats, with Maria Teresa Tramontin, choir master. €7. Auditorium jugglers, equilibrists and musicians, some of them prized di Milano, Largo Gustav Mahler 1 (Corso San Gottardo) • M1 with prestigious awards, world-famous, performing incre- Duomo + tram 3; M2 Porta Genova + bus 59 dible numbers. €33/66. www.tiketone.it; www.vivaticket.it. 21.00: Live pop. Contemporary music performed by Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • Raphael Gualazzi with his six musicians band. €35/45. Te- M2 Assago Milanofiori Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago atro Dal Verme, Via San Giovanni sul Muro 2 • M1 Cairoli Forum) 20.30: Swing party. Live music to dance lindy hop, shag rd 23 December 2017: Saturday and balboa till dawn. As a start, a welcome drink. 21.00: 09.00–14.00: Farmers street market by Lombard pro- Dinner with dj set by Fabio Rutigliano. 23.00: Show. till ducers. Goat and cow cheeses, dairy products, bee pro- midnight with the Chicago Stompers Swingtet. 01.00: More ducts, jams, meat eggs, fruit, vegetables, flour, bakery, 15.00, 18.00: Acrobatic circus. “Alis. Christmas Gala” 2 music by the Jumping Jive and the Chicago Stompers. cereals, legumes, bread, wine, ornamental plants. Quality, hours without breaks, with contemporary circus excellence, 03.00: Dj set by Fabio Rutigliano. Reservations at info@ freshness and respect for seasonal production, guaranteed 26 artists performing on air and ground numbers: acrobats, spiritdemilan.it. Dinner + Swing Party €100; after 23.00: directly by those who produce them. Piazza Durante • M1, jugglers, equilibrists and musicians, some of them prized Drinks + Swing Party + New Year’s Eve toast €45; after M2 Loreto with prestigious awards, world-famous, performing incredi- 00.30: Entertainment + Swing Party: €30. Spirit de Milan, 10.00: Symphony music. I Pomeriggi Musicali orchestra, ble numbers. €33/66. www.tiketone.it; www.vivaticket.it. Via Bovisasca 57/59 • FNM Bovisa with Giuseppe Gibboni; conducted by Giancarlo Rizzi. €9/20. Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • 21.00: Acrobatic circus special night. “Alis. Christmas Teatro Dal Verme, Via San Giovanni sul Muro 2 • M1 Cairoli M2 Assago Milanofiori Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago Gala” 2 hours without breaks, with contemporary circus 15.30: Mini musical for children. “Lo Spettacolo di Na- Forum) excellence, 26 artists performing on air and ground num- tale.” Nativity scene, elves, toys, lights and sweets are just 20.45: Lega A basket. EA7 Milano versus Germani Basket bers: acrobats, jugglers, equilibrists and musicians, some some of the magics that will accompany us in this enchan- Brescia. Mediolanum Forum, Via Di Vittorio 6. Assago (MI) of them prized with prestigious awards, world-famous, ted world! Will the elf Natalino succeed in opening Nicolas • M2 Assago Forum (buy a “Milan-AssagoForum round-trip performing incredible numbers. €55/110 with New Year’s eyes making him believe that Santa Claus really exists? A ticket”) Eve toast. www.tiketone.it; www.vivaticket.it. Teatro della show for both children and adults. €15; under 14 €11; un- Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • M2 Assago Mi- der 3 €4.50. Teatro Manzoni, Via Manzoni 42 • M3 Monte- 27th December 2017: Wednesday lanofiori Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago Forum) napoleone 20.00: Concert. “Harry Potter and the Chamber of Se- 21.00: Musical. “Dirty Dancing. The Classic Story on Sta- 17.15: Organ music. “Stories of signs, births and dre- crets” performed by Orchestra Italiana del Cinema, with ge” Midnight toast with all the company with panettone ams”, a Christmas meditation with a brief lecture in Italian more than 80 orchestral elements, conducted by Christian and spumante sparkling wine. www.teatroarcimboldi.it. by Antonio Gargiulo, following organ concert by Matteo Gal- Schumann, played live and in sync with the images of the €49/139. www.ticketone.it. Teatro degli Arcimboldi, Viale li. Admission free while seats last. Basilica of Santa Maria film. €35/90.Teatro degli Arcimboldi, Viale dell’Innovazione dell’Innovazione 20 • M5 Bicocca presso San Satiro, Via Torino 17–19 • M1/3 Duomo. 20 • M5 Bicocca 20.30: Great concert in Piazza Duomo. The show stars 21.00: Acrobatic circus. “Alis. Christmas Gala” 2 hours with Dj music. 23.00: Following live performance by the 21.00: Acrobatic without breaks, with contemporary circus excellence, 26 rapper Fabri Fibra and the rock singer Luca Carboni. Admis- circus. “Alis. artists performing on air and ground numbers: acrobats, sion free. Piazza Duomo • M1/3 Duomo Christmas Gala” 2 jugglers, equilibrists and musicians, some of them prized 22.30: Special party. “Alice in Wonderland” Music, choirs hours without bre- with prestigious awards, world-famous, performing incre- and dancing by the Blinda Band. Following Dj Sets on 3 dif- aks, with contempo- dible numbers. €33/66. www.tiketone.it; www.vivaticket.it. ferent dance floors: pop by Danilo Rossini & Doctor M; 90’s rary circus excellen- Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • by Theo Noise; Reggaetin/hip hop by Roberto Genovese. ce, 26 artists perfor- M2 Assago Milanofiori Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago Each hour after midnight a different surprise ... Alcatraz, ming on air and Forum) Via Valtellina 25 • Passante Lancetti; M3 Maciachini; trol- ground numbers: leybus 91-92 acrobats, jugglers, th equilibrists and musi- 28 December 2017: Thursday cians, some of them 15.00, 20.00: Concert. “Harry Potter and the Chamber of prized with presti- Secrets” performed by Orchestra Italiana del Cinema, with We wish you all a wonderful gious awards, world- more than 80 orchestral elements, conducted by Christian famous, performing Schumann, played live and in sync with the images of the New Year incredible numbers. film. €35/90.Teatro degli Arcimboldi, Viale dell’Innovazione €33/66. www.tiketo- 20 • M5 Bicocca ne.it; www.vivaticket.it Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di 21.00: Acrobatic circus. “Alis. Christmas Gala” 2 hours Hello Milano • Mensile indipendente, Vittorio, Assago(MI) • M2 Assago Milanofiori Forum without breaks, with contemporary circus excellence, 26 distribuzione gratuita. (round-trip ticket to Assago Forum) Photo courtesy Alessandro Bosio artists performing on air and ground numbers: acrobats, Tiratura: 20.000 copie • jugglers, equilibrists and musicians, some of them prized Anno 21 • N° 11 • Dicembre 2017 24th December 2017: Sunday with prestigious awards, world-famous, performing incre- dible numbers. €33/66. www.tiketone.it; www.vivaticket.it. Christmas Day Vigil Editore: Art’Idea Srl • Via Lucca 22 • 20152 Milano • Italia Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • 13.00: Harness racing. Mr Vic Award. €5; under 14 free; Tel. 02.29.52.05.70 (lun-ven 9.30-18.30) • Cell. 348.600.6297 M2 Assago Milanofiori Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago under 18, women and over 60 €1. Ippodromo del Trotto, • E-mail: [email protected] Forum) Viale Piccolomini 2 • M5 San Siro Ippodromo Dir. resp: Silvia Francescato • Iscr. Trib. di Milano n° 185 del 23.03.96 21.00: Acrobatic circus. “Alis. Christmas Gala” 2 hours th Testi/immagini/mappa © Art’Idea srl (se non specificato altrimenti) without breaks, with contemporary circus excellence, 26 29 December 2017: Friday Stampato in novembre 2017 da: 20.45: Euroleague basket. EA7 Milano versus Crvena artists performing on air and ground numbers: acrobats, Servizi Stampa 2.0. Srl Via Brescia 22, Cernusco s/N (MI) jugglers, equilibrists and musicians, some of them prized Zvezda mts Belgrade. Mediolanum Forum, Via Di Vittorio 6. Per informazioni sulla pubblicità in Hello Milano, contattare: with prestigious awards, world-famous, performing incre- Assago (MI) • M2 Assago Forum (buy a “Milan-AssagoFo- dible numbers. €33/66. www.tiketone.it; www.vivaticket.it rum round-trip ticket”) Silvia Francescato, tel. (+39) 02.29.52.05.70 (lun-ven 9.30-18.30), Teatro della Luna, Via Giuseppe Di Vittorio, Assago(MI) • 21.00: Acrobatic circus. “Alis. Christmas Gala” 2 hours cell. (+39) 348.600.6297, email. [email protected] M2 Assago Milanofiori Forum (round-trip ticket to Assago without breaks, with contemporary circus excellence, 26 For information on advertising in Hello Milano, contact: Forum) artists performing on air and ground numbers: acrobats, Silvia Francescato, tel. (+39) 02.29.52.05.70- (+39) 02.36.63.32.38 Please note Opening times and fees could be changed without notice. page 12 On Sunday 3rd December all Italian public museums are free Public exhibitions on the 1st of January could be closed in the morning. Exhibitions Many private galeries could be closed until Sunday 7 January December 2017 Palazzo Reale Palazzo Marino Esposizione Permanente Piazza Duomo 12 • M1, M3 Duomo Piazza della Scala 2 • M1/3 Duomo Via Turati 34 • M3 Turati Open Mon 14.30-19.30; Tues, Wed, Sun 9.30-19.30; Open every day 9.30-19.30, Thursday until 22.30. Open every day 09.30-19.30. Some have an admis- Thurs, Fri, Sat 9.30-21.30. Admission free sion fee, other are free. Tickets: €10/12 + €1.50 fee for online reservations. The ticket office closes one hour before exhibition closing time. For reservations visit www.vivaticket.it • Until 3 December. “Salvatore Sciarrino - the sign and the sound” a selection of documents from the Historical Ricordi Archives and the Paul Sacher Foun- dation in Basel (Salvatore Sciarrino Collection), along with musical contributions, to create a visual-listening path, and discover the figure of the composer through his writing. Inside the Sala delle Cariatidi a sound in- stallation reproduces the music of the author in a spe- cial setting.

• Until 28 January. “Dentro Caravag- gio” a show • Until 28 January. A selection of 165 polychrome about the xylographs, artistic prints on paper, imprinted with extraordi- wood matrices by the Japanese Utagawa Kuniyoshi, nary artis- reproducing strange worlds, visionary landscapes, tic produc- beautiful women, but also kabuki actors, cats, carps tion of and mythical and fantastic animals, as well as legend- Caravag- ary heroes, samurai and brigands, that had so much gio, told influence on the manga culture, anime (Japanese and from a non-animated animation films), tattoos, and contem- new per- porary pop culture. spective through • From 5 December to 14 January. “Sacra conver- two key sazione” an oil painting by Tiziano, also known by the readings: name of “Pala Gozzi” is a large dimensions altarpiece diagnostic mesuring 312 x 215 cm. On this occasion visitors can investiga- see also the back of the table, where there are pen- tions and ciled sketches, partly shaded by brush, made by Tizi- new documentary research that led to a review of ano himself and depicting various heads, one of which the chronology of his early works, thanks to both the could be the sketch for the Child in a first draft of the new dates that have emerged from the documents, painting. The opportunity to admire the back of the and the results of scientific analyses. A unique exhi- altarpiece will make it possible to discover how these bition not only because the public can view works works were realized in the sixteenth century. from major Italian museums and equally important foreign museums, but because for the first time Car- GAM Galleria Arte Moderna avaggio’s canvases will be flanked by their respective Via Palestro 16 • M1 Palestro radiographic images that will allow the audience to Open Tues-Sun 9.00-17.30. €3/5 follow and discover, through innovative use of multi- • Permanent exhibitions. Inside the rooms of this media equipment, the artist’s journey from his initial beautiful royal villa is a large selection of art works thought to the final achievement of the work. by Giovanni Fattori, Silvestro Lega, Giovanni Boldini, Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Cézanne, Pablo Picasso, Ame- deo Modigliani, Francesco Hayez, Pompeo Marchesi, Andrea Appiani, Tranquillo Cremona, Giovanni Segan- tini, Federico Faruffini, Giuseppe Pellizza da Volpedo, Antonio Canova, Daniele Ranzoni, Medardo Rosso, and Gaetano Previati. Worth a visit! • Until 28 January. “Chagall. Sogno di una notte Museo di Storia Naturale d’estate” Not the classic “immersive exhibition,” but a Corso Venezia 55 • M1 Palestro new form of knowing and living art, through a clever Open Tues-Sun, 09.00-17.30, Mon closed. €3/5 mix of entertainment, theater, music, technology and • Until 18 February. “Il Mondo Fuggevole di Tou- • Permanent exhibition. This museum, the big- art that can overwhelm and thrill the spectator. The louse-Lautrec” Over 250 works, 35 paintings, in addi- gest in Italy, has 23 halls with about 700 showcases. soundtrack has been specially composed by Luca Lon- tion to lithographs, etchings and the complete series Among the many attractions, pay a visit to the gallery gobardi. of all 22 posters by the bohemian artist who, without of 83 dioramas, 6 of which are brand new, depict- • From 6 December to 21 January. “Seduzioni having attended school, could create a new and pro- ing the fauna and flora, and created precisely for the d’artista” a collective exhibition of over thirty works vocative realism, extreme synthesis of form, color protection of the exhibited species, some of which are by three contemporary artists Antonia Campanella, and movement. already threatened with extinction. These showcases Laura Di Fazio and Sara Montani, with a selection have animals, trees, herbaceous plants, flowers and of different techniques and materials according with fruits faithfully reproducing in detail the habitats of their three different styles. many of Earth’s environments. Mediateca Santa Teresa GAM Manzoni Via della Moscova 28 • M2 Moscova, M3 Turati Via Manzoni 45 • M3 Montenapoleone Open Mon-Wed-Fri 09.30-13.30; Tues-Thurs 09.30- Open Tue- Sat 10/13 – 15/19 Admission free 18.10; Sat-Sun closed. Admission free. • Until 25 February. “Macchiaioli.” From private col- An interactive multimedia library, open for consulta- lections, 35 masterpieces by authors such as Giovanni tion of its digital resources. Fattori, Telemaco Signorini, Silvestro Lega, Giuseppe • Until 15 December. “Lampi di Russia” on show • Until 4 March. “Memoria” an exhibition by James Abbati, Nino Costa, Odoardo Borrani and others, doc- images, photographs, posters, videos and paintings Nachtwey, the award-winning American photogra- umenting the fortunes of the Italian nineteenth cen- of Russian culture from 1890 to the years of Soviet pher, universally considered Robert Capa’s heir. tury pictorial movement. realism, along an itinerary of discovery and reflection. Museo Nazionale della Scienza e Gallerie d’Italia della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci Piazza della Scala 6 • M1 Duomo Open Tues-Sun 9.30-19.30; Thurs until 22.30; closed Via San Vittore 21 • M2 Sant’Ambrogio Mon. €3/5/10. page 13 Open Tues-Fri 10-18, Sat and Sun 10-19. Admission For the openings during the festivities see www.gal- €3/8 lerieditalia.com, or call 800.167619 Throughout 2017, the museum is calling into ac- Exhibitions Payments through POS contactless “Paygo” or the tion all those willing to share impressions with their new smart phone “JiffyPay”. December 2017 “friends” and post photos or video on Facebook, Twit- Young staff wearing the badge ChiediMI are available ter, Instagram, Youtube, connecting via the hashtag Triennale to offer a free tour around each room to illustrate the #Museoscienza, to socialize and propagate culture in Viale Alemagna 6 • M1/2 Cadorna museum space. In addition you can find free audio an innovative way. Open Tues-Sun 10.30-20.30, Thurs until 23.00, Mon guides in nine different languages. closed. • Permanent exhibitions. The sumptuous palace This venue is itself an interesting piece of architec- belonging to the Intesa Sanpaolo bank, holds a large ture, designed by Giovanni Muzio and built in 1931-33 number of art works ranging from 19th (197 from specifically for exhibitions. The Torre Branca nearby Canova to Boccioni) to 20th century (189 from the offers the chance to see Milan from about 100 metres Second World War on). Worth a visit! up, at certain times of day and evening. • Until 8 April. “L’ultimo Caravaggio. Eredi e Nuovi • New permanent exhibition. The sculpture “Cav- Maestri.” This exhibition is an exceptional insight into alletto” in bronze and varnish by Gianfranco Ferroni is the artistic events that have taken place in the cit- now permanently placed in the foyer of the Triennale ies of Naples, Genoa and Milan following Caravaggio’s Teatro dell’Arte. death, in a historical-artistic period. “The Martyrdom of Sant’Orsola” the last Caravaggio painting recently exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, will therefore be the starting point for a confront among the artists of the time, since some of them collected his inheritance, while others started new ar- • Every Saturday to Sunday. With a ticket for the tistic ways. museum, visitors can participate in guided tours, in Italian with a translation on request, of the Galleria Leonardo and also of the collections of trains, ships Hangar Bicocca and planes in the Transport section. There are cur- Via Chiese 2 • M5 Istria rently three unique automobiles on display: Bianchi Open Tues-Sun 11.30-19.00, Thurs until 22.30, Mon 8HP, Alfa Romeo Zagato 8C and Bisiluro DaMolNar, closed. Admission €4/6 symbols of the tradition that has made the Italian car • Permanent exhibition. “I Sette Palazzi Celesti” into a world famous icon. a site-specific installation by Anselm Kiefer with five large paintings and seven “towers” forming a single • New permanent exhibition. The 7 meters tall art work. marble sculpture “Il Seme dell’Altissimo” by Emilio Is- • Until 14 Jan- grò, previously placed at Expo Center’s entrance, has uary. “Take me now been settled near the Triennale in the Sempione (I’m Yours)” a Park. group exhibi- • Until 2 January. “Nature” solo show by Thomas de tion, originally Falco whose sculptural research follows a special and conceived by highly personalized textile technique called “wrap- Hans Ulrich ping”. He wraps around a core of textile material other Obrist and textile materials to create shapes resembling some- Christian Bol- thing similar to tree roots. Through this technique, a tanski in 1995, textile natural element is transformed into sculptural now curated by shapes. Christian Bol- • Until 7 January. “NUB New Urban Body. Experi- tanski, Hans Ul- ence of Urban Generation” a show underling that “The rich Obrist, Chi- current evolution in the ways in which people live, ara Parisi work, get together and use services is having a posi- and Roberta • Permanent exhibition. “Extreme”, in partnership tive impact on the transformation of the city. More Tenconi, that rewrites the rulebook for experiencing with CERN European Organization for Nuclear Re- and more frequently we are finding ourselves face to a work of art. Visitors are invited to flout convention search and INFN National Institute of Nuclear Phys- face with multifunctional urban bodies that are able to and do all the things they aren’t normally allowed ics, is a fascinating research area, to explore matter respond in a flexible and adaptable way to our need to to do in a museum. Works can be touched, used, or in its most infinitesimal components. The exhibition construct and manage our own daily program.” changed; they can be consumed or worn; purchased reveals what goes on inside the laboratories of two of • From 15 De- and even taken free of charge, or carried off in ex- the largest research institutions that carry out experi- cember to 25 change for some personal item. A project that con- ments related to particle physics. March. “Subhuman tinues to evolve and be transformed. Inhuman Superhu- man” the first ret- rospective entirely dedicated to the vi- sionary designer and furniture de- signer Rick Owens. On show a selection from his archives of fashion, furnish- ings, films, graphic works, publications, along with a monumental sculp- tural installation.

Armani Silos Via Bergognone 40 • M2 Porta Genova, tram 14 Open Wed, Sun 11.00-19.00. €8/12. • Until 25 February. “Ambienti/Environments” on Individual guided tours in Italian, English, French, show ten environments created by Lucio Fontana be- • Inside the Aero-Naval Pavillion. “Luna Rossa,” German, Spanish, Portuguese, Japanese and Russian, tween 1949 and 1968 for Italian and international in- the rigid wing catamaran AC72 which was a finalist €160. stitutions and museums; works of crucial importance in the selection regattas for the 34th America’s Cup This 4,500 square-metre space spread over four highlighting the innovative and precursor force of this challenge (San Francisco 2013). floors houses a unique selection of the fashion de- great 20th-century master. The spaces, rooms and signer’s creations from 1980 until today. The selection corridors conceived and designed since the late 1940s does not follow a chronological order but is divided M.A.C. Musica Arte Cultura and almost always destroyed at the end of the exhibi- into themes that have inspired and continue to inspire Piazza Tito Lucrezio Caro • M1 Duomo + tram 3; M2 tion are the most experimental and lesser-known Giorgio Armani’s creative work. Porta Genova + bus 59 works of Fontana, just because of their ephemeral na- • Until February. “Emotions of the Athletic Body,” a Open Mon.-Fri. 09.00-19.00, Sat. Sun. 09.00-15.00. ture. For this reason, some of those exhibited have photo exhibition to celebrate sport and athletes who Admission free been rebuilt for the first time since the artist’s de- always face new challenges and inspire emotion. • From 2 to 19 November. “This is everyday violence” mise. Museo Diocesano MAAB Gallery Michael Biasi Corso di Porta Ticinese, 95 • tram 3; bus 59, 71, 94 Via Nerino 3 • M1Duomo or Cordusio Open Tues-Sun 10-18. €5/8/10 Open Mon Fri 10.30-18 Sat by appointment page 14 The exhibition spaces, part of a refurbished monas- tery, display over 400 works of art divided into vari- ous sections. It also presents anthological and solo Exhibitions exhibitions. December 2017 • Until 28 January. “The Adoration of the Fondazione Luciana Matalon shepherds” by Perug- Foro Buonaparte 67 • M1 Cairoli ino, a large dimen- Open Wed-Sat 10-19, Mon-Tues closed. Admission sions oil on wood with annual membership card €1+7/9 ticket. from the National Gallery of Umbria in Perugia, which was part of a polyptych made for more than twenty years and, at • Until 21 December. “The Game Is On!” With this the pain of the paint- exhibition the Gallery retraces the research by Bruno er, still lacked some Munari with and his experimentation aiming to op- finishing touches. It pose any great and small form of cultural dogmati- was a huge altar- cism, mental stiffness, intellectual fundamentalism, piece, several com- and immobility. partments and sev- eral registers, which was to be over eight Galleria Fumagalli meters high and Via Bonaventura Cavalieri 6 • M3 Turati which was made up • Until 20 December. of over thirty tables. “Dystopia” solo show by the Then dismantled and French couple Anne and divided into two Patrick Poirier which in- • Until 10 December. Wildlife Photographer the well parts, the boards dis- cludes plastics, sculptures, known prestigious naturalistic photography contest persed. Many of them installations, photographs, since 1964, this year will celebrate the 52nd anniver- are now in France be- paperwork, paintings and sary with a special edition. On show are 100 award- cause of the requisi- other visual fragments that winning photos from the London Natural History Mu- tions made by Napoleonic troops in 1797, in the Unit- speak about the fragility of seum, selected from 50,000 shots made by profes- ed States, such as the San Bartolomeo in Birming- life. The exhibition will be sionals and amateurs from 96 countries, divided into ham, Alabama, or just in Perugia, in the Benedictine accompanied by a mono- 16 categories. There are 8 Italian prizes among win- Church of St. Peter, and in the National Picture Gallery graph that documents the ners and finalists. This year the winner is “While the of Umbria. There have been many attempts to rede- fifty years of artistic -prac forest still stands” by Tim Laman, USA. fine the original layout of the great polyptych. A lay- tice of the couple, published out project, curated by Alessandro Colombo of Studio by Éditions Flammarion with the support of Maison Spazio Ventura 15 Cerri & Associati, tries to suggest the architectural Européenne de la Photographie, Galerie Mitterand and Via Ventura 15 • M2 Lambrate space to which the work was intended and to recall Galleria Fumagalli. the great polyptych of which it was part. PAC Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea Fabbrica del Vapore Via Palestro 14 • M1 Palestro Ex Locale Cisterne and Spazio Due Open Tues-Sun 9.30-19.00, Mon 14.30-19.30 Thurs Via Procaccini 4 • M5 Monumentale 9.30-22.30. Tickets: €4/6 Open Fri. 18-22, Sat. Sun. 12-20. Admission free • Until 3 December. “Io Luca Vitone” the first ex- tensive anthology dedicated to the intense and var- • From 2 Decem- ied production of the Italian artist born in Genoa in ber to 4 April. 1964 and now living in Berlin. As a curious and tire- “Revolution.” From less traveller with a spirit in the midst of anarchist and the London of the nomadic, his work explores the ways in which places Beatles to Wood- build their identity through culture, art, music, archi- stock, an exhibition tecture, politics, and ethnic minorities. of stories, protago- • Until 4 March. “NASA. A Human Adventure” 2500 nists and objects Museo di Leonardo square feet, with rockets, Shuttle, Space Rover, anti- about that short pe- Le Sale del Re, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, corner gravity simulators ... an educational and exciting, sci- riod, from 1966 to Piazza della Scala • M1/3 Duomo entific and immersive journey, ranging from the first 1970, that changed Open every day, 10.00-23.00. €11/12 space launches to the present day and featuring about forever their and Guided tours in Italian and English every Saturday 300 original artefacts from US and US space pro- our lives. On show and Sunday from 10.30 to 11.30 grams, most of them borrowed from Kansas Cosmos- 300 objects of fash- phere & Space Center and Space & Rocket Center, ion and design, with many of which have been in space. Visitors will be movies and songs able to admire the magnificent spaceships built by from the 70’s, a NASA and discover the stories of the people on board great tribute to the or those who have designed and built them. Not to be Beatles, Rolling missed the iconic Space Shuttle, the first reusable Stones, Animals, Kinks, Who, Hollies, Searchers, spacecraft, with a section that will allow you to see Zombies, Moody Blues, Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Mary the flight deck, where the astronauts are when they Quant … are in orbit, and the middle deck where they eat, sleep and work on experiments. Museo del Novecento Via Marconi 1 • M1, M3 Duomo MUBA Museo dei Bambini Open Mon. 14.30-19.30, Tues, Wed, Fri, Sun 9.30- Rotonda della Besana, Via Enrico Besana 12 • trams 19.30, Thurs, Sat 9.30-22.30 €3/5 29, 30 bus 84 • Permanent exhibitions. This museum, opened Open Tues-Fri 09.30-18.00, Sat-Sun and holidays inside the pre-Fascist era Palazzo dell’Arengario, de- • Permanent exhibition. Interactive and multidisci- 10.00-18.00. €6/8, family 25. signed by the famous architects Griffini, Magistretti, plinary exhibition dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci, en- • Until 7 January. “Colore. Giocare con la luce” Muzio and Portaluppi, presents a collection of more gineer and artist who left 120 volumes which include (namely Colours. Playing with light) is a show-game than 4,000 contemporary artworks. 5 thousand pages of drawings, most of which are still designed for children aged 2-6, which explains to • Until 25 February. “Time after Time, Space after to be interpreted. The exhibition presents discoveries, them the fascinating world of colours and the har- Space” a bimonthly calendar of events by Alexandra world premieres and interactive experiences, describ- monic rules of light. An active and sensory route, di- Bachzetsis, Simone Forti, Adelita Husni-Bey, Chris- ing his writings, projects and studies for machines vided into four different installations, with the support tian Marclay, and Paulina Olowska, showing five solo and the methodology used for two of his most impor- of Giotto, a historical brand and synonym for “color projects featuring artists of different generations and tant creations, which were created in Milan: The Last made to accompany the youngest”, and some profes- backgrounds. http://www.museodelnovecento.org/it/ Supper and “Leonardo’s Horse” dedicated to Franc- sionals in the photography art world. esco Sforza. Fondazione Giò Marconi Valentini&Maccacaro Via Tadino, 15 • M1 Porta Venezia Corso Magenta 52 • M1 Cadorna/Conciliazione Open Tues-Sat 10.00-13.00, 15.00-19.00 Admission free Open Tues-Fri 10.30-14.00/15.30-19.00; Sat. 10.30- page 15 • Until 27 Janu- 14.00 ary. “L’arte è lib- ertà” by Enrico Baj, • Until January. Exhibitions a prominent figure Monica Castiglioni December 2017 in the contempo- presents her sculp- rary art scene, a ture-jewel creations Galleria Carla Sozzani surreal-dadaist made of polished Corso Como 10 • M2 Moscova spirit experiment- bronze. Open 10.30-19.30, Wed-Thurs until 21. ing with unusual techniques and sty- listic solutions. In Civico Museo di Storia Naturale 1951 he promoted Corso Venezia 55 • M1 Palestro the Nuclear Move- Open Tues.- Sun. 9.00-17.30. Admission free to the ment together with exhibition; €3/5 to the museum. Sergio Dangelo. In • Until 7 January. “Pit- 1953 he met Asger tore per Natura” water- Jorn, with whom he colors, temperas and oils founded the Inter- by Marzio Tamer, the national Movement artist that, since its in- for an Imaginist Bauhaus, opposing the forced ra- ception, enchants with tionalisation and geometrisation of art. From the his refined animals and 1950s on, he was a figure on the international scene landscapes, subtly enig- and exhibited regularly, especially in Paris. His debut matic masterpieces; in the United States came with an exhibition in 1960. while the strength of his • Until 11 February. “Incontri” (meetings) by Paolo personality distinguishes Roversi, an Italian-born photographer who lives and him in the world. works in Paris. About his technique he says: “My pho- MAEC Milan Art & Events Center Via Lupetta 3 • M3 Missori, M1 Duomo tography is more subtraction than addition. I always Open Tues.Fri.10.00-13.00/15.00–19.00; Sat. 15.00– try to take off things. We all have a sort of mask of ex- Pasticceria Giovanni Galli 19.00 pression. You say goodbye, you smile, you are scared. Via Victor Hugo 2 • M1/3 Duomo “8.0” an international group I try to take all these masks away and little by little • Until 22 December. • From 2 December to 14 January. “Piatti” solo show with art works by the artists: Laurentiu Adrian subtract until you have something pure left. A kind of show by the famous film actress Lucia Bosè, wife of Craioveanu, from Rumania; Federica Fontana, Roy abandon, a kind of absence. It looks like an absence, the bullfighter Luis Miguel Dominguín and mother of Millennium (Andrea Bevere), Italian; and the Chinese but in fact when there is this emptiness I think the the singer Miguel Bosè. When she was 15, she worked Guoyin Jiang, Jing Yan, Ping Zhang, Xiuqiong Zhang, interior beauty comes out. This is my technique”. at a pastry shop in downtown Milan, where the fa- Huan Zhou. mous film director Luchino Visconti admired her beau- Wow Spazio Fumetto ty, so starting her lucky carrier as an actress. Lucia Bosè actually is recalling her youth, and exhibiting in Viale Campania 12 • Passante Ferroviario Porta Vit- Forma Meravigli Via Maravigli 5 • M1 Cordusio the pastry shop some photos of her life together with toria, tram 27, buses 73, 90, 91, 93 Open Thurs.Sun.11.00-20.00; Mon.Tues. Closed €6/8 a choice of her creations made in découpage. Open Tues-Fri 15.00-19.00, Sat and Sun 15.00- 20.00. € 3/5 Après-coup Arte Via Della Braida 5 • M3 Porta Romana Open 08.30-22.00 • Until 30 December. “We R All SLAVES To Pus- sy” a provocation against women’s abuses by “Par- allel Lines” alias two art- ists called Silvia Lana and Ilaria Marchesini, who are carrying the #nonsibarat- ta campaign, to denounce how much they have ex- perienced in person, see- • Until 25 February. “Sogno e Avventura” a unique ing their sexual favors in show entirely devoted to the Disney princesses: Snow exchange for the opportu- White, Cinderella, Aurora, Belle, Ariel, Jasmine, Mu- • Until 28 January. “Kuwait. A Desert on Fire” pho- nity to exhibit or sell their lan, Pocahontas, Rapunzel, Tiana, Merida and other tos by Sebastião Salgado taken in 1991, when the works. There are thou- favorites such as Elsa and Anna. On display original crisis in the Middle East and the Gulf War were at the sands of nails embedded designs from important archives and private collec- center of the world debate, and Iraqi soldiers burned in their paintings/sculp- tions, photo sets, movie posters, gigantographs, over 600 oil wells in Kuwait to hinder the advance- tures are therefore the dramatic testimony of a pro- games, gadgets, historical albums, fairy tales, videos, ment of US-led military coalition. Salgado was among found downturn in society. scores of soundtracks, comics, original designs and the first photographers to understand the true extent vintage books. and gravity of this environmental disaster, and he de- Villa Necchi Campiglio cided to follow the firefighters’ and specialized engi- Via Mozart 12/14 • M1 Palestro Studio d’Arte Cannaviello neers called from all over the world to limit damage Open Wed-Sun 10.00-18.00 Admission free Piazzetta Bossi • M1 Duomo and stem losses. Open Tues.-Sat. 11.00-19.00 or by apointment

• Until 9 January. Galleria San Fedele Solo show with 30 oils Via Ulrico Hoepli 3 a-b • M1 Duomo/San Babila on canvas by the Chi- Open Tues.-Sat. 16.00-19.00 nese Hao Wang, paintings that repre- sent an indefinite hu- manity, outlined with touches of colors that avoid the details de- scription. These paints rely on • New permanent exhibition. In the splendid “chengyu” (idiomatic • Until 27 January. “Shinkai. Abissi” solo show by backdrop of the villa managed by the Italian National Chinese locus), thus the Japanese sculptress Fumitaka Kudo, who knows Trust, 21 works on paper by Pietro Marussig, Mario joining the east and the secret cavities of the matter, the hidden air cham- Sironi, Amedeo Modigliani, Pablo Picasso, Henri Ma- west in creating a tale ber in the heart of the black Belgium marbles, in Car- tisse and Lucio Fontana, donated by the heirs of the that may reflect on rara’s blocks, in the sharp slate... she knows that the Guido Sforni Collection. They are enriching the visit to the world we live in. vacuum is dense of meaning. the beautiful residence designed by Piero Portaluppi. Museo Poldi Pezzoli Galleria Avantgarden Via Alessandro Manzoni 12 • M3 Montenapoleone. Via Cadolini 29 Open Tues-Sun 10.00-18.00, closed Mon Tickets: €8 Open Tues-Fri; 14.00-19.00, Sat. 15.00–19.00 page 16 • From 23 November to Exhibitions 7 January. December 2017 “High Frame Rate” solo Building show by Rap- Via Monte di Pietà 23 • M3 Montenapoleone, M1 Duomo tuz, alias Luigi • A new gallery in the hart of Milan. Created with Maria Mura- the aim of exploring aspects of artistic enquiry and tore, interna- weaving a texture made up of different forms of ex- tionally well pression. known writer, who after a long time in It is an exhibition space the United that will host visual, per- States returns forming and applied arts, to Italy to cel- installations and design. • New permanent exhibition. On occasion of the ebrate a 30- It’s purpose is not just to opening of three new rooms, now are exhibited three year career. At highlight the work of collections so far never shown to the public. In the the beginning well-known international first room, an exceptional collection of watches from he worked with figures, but also to dedi- the 16th to the 20th centuries, one the most impor- Skah, Mec, cate space to ad hoc pro- tant in the world, similar to those of the Louvre in Sten, Reo and jects involving emerging Paris, of the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York Rend. By the talents. mid-nineties he joined rappers J-Ax and Space and of the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire in Geneva. In the • Until December. One, and they set up the collective Spaghetti “Continuo infinito pre- second room a collection of archaeological finds, a sig- Funk, with Gemini DiVersi, DJ Enzo and Chief. Al- sente” 3 gallery floors nificant ceramic nucleus of IV-III century BC. In the though some have abandoned it over time, Rap- dedicated to the solo third room, the main 18th century china by European tuz still remains the only writer who follows J-Ax, show by the sculptor manufactures active, among which the works made in Space One and Gemini DiVersi, performing graffiti Remo Salvadori. Meissen stand out for quality and importance. behind the artists during their concerts.

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(Please note that make a stop near Como “lost island” in the plains. A Friend in Milan assistance during your stores offering leather- advance booking is nec- to browse through the Includes a visit to a vine- stay. Our tour compan- ware, prestige fabrics and essary to see the Last Armani outlet. You might yard producing excellent Contact us on one of the ions endeavour to create designer garments, we Supper, so be sure to let even like to include a visit red and white wines and telephone numbers or a personalised experi- can help you to find what us know 6-8 weeks in to Como! wine tasting, lunch in email below and we will ence so that you have you are looking for. Time advance). Time: 8 hours, Price: a traditional restaurant provide you with com- the chance to have your varies depending on your Time: 3 hours €720 (personal shopper with rural Milanese spe- prehensive information questions answered and requirements. Price: €150 + public + car and driver). Max cialities (not included in on the tour that interests maybe to linger a little Price: €50 per hour + transport and entry costs 3 people. We can pro- price), plus a visit to the you. Alternatively, ask us longer at the places that public transport costs. to museums etc. vide you with a quote for extraordinary church, how to customise your interest you most (you We can also provide you larger groups. Certosa di Pavia. own tour! might even like to design with a car and driver. Tours by Car Time: 6 hours, Price: Contacts for: your own tour). Further- Como by Car €600 (tour companion Spanish, French, Italian, more, you decide who Strange, Hidden and Milan Sight-seeing by + car and driver) + entry English 348.600.62.97 joins your group! Wheth- Unfamiliar Milan Car Lake Como is renowned costs to museums etc. Tel. 02.29.52.05.70 er it be a small group of Off the beaten track: dis- Take the tour of the prin- for its beauty, wonderful Max 3 people. We can Email: info@friendinmi- your closest friends or 30 cover some of the more cipal sights of Milan in villas and fine silk prod- provide you with a quote lan.co.uk business associates. unusual sights of the city, comfort: including the ucts. The visit includes for larger groups. Method of Payment with glimpses of its early Cathedral, Galleria Vit- a boat trip, a look at a We accept cash payments Walking Tours history, the artistic curi- torio Emanuele, La Scala charming lakeside village Dining Out with on the day as well as pay- osities of various ages, and the Sforza Castle and the funicular railway A Friend in Milan ment in advance (Pay Pal). Major Monuments hidden gardens, an an- as well as going further to Brunate located high NB. Some prices are sub- A fascinating tour on foot tique cafe and delightful afield for sights such as above the lake with spec- Traditional – Romantic ject to change without to the principal sights courtyards; all sights that Leonardo’s Horse. tacular views. The visit –Spicy... the choice is notice, particularly in the of central Milan, includ- reveal a very different, It is possible to make can also include a stop to yours. Whatever mood case of fluctuating entry/ ing the Cathedral, Gal- richer city. shopping stops on the the Armani factory outlet you seek, let your Friend ticket prices. All prices leria Vittorio Emanuele, Time: 2 hours, Price: way. if desired. in Milan organise a mem- quoted are an estimate. La Scala and the Sforza €100 + public transport Time: 2-3 hours. Price: Time: 6 hours, Price: orable evening of win- VAT 22%