FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

SEPTEMBER 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

The Grandof Art Gala Kick-off for the 31st Biennial Antiques Fair

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS Florence September 2019

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A V GALILEO S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O M A T N anticipated by several MUGNONE FERRARIS O VIA DEI CA VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H Sacro Cuore V. G. B. AMICI I I M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI HI LARGO T OI V V. MAD RA PONTE ROSSO C A I V. A. NICOLODI D V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze Grand Gala HOT DATES V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI 6 E V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I ELLI C . Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena A G OI R D A N O CIN VIA A. BERTANI L installations in the city. AL N D of Art VIA G. BAND VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA st VIALE DON MINZONI C Kick-off for the 31 Biennial Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI A PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. Antiques Fair IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of art RE DI SAN EOL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O TOP BRANDSA MARTIRI N 22 P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S I A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA Giardino FILIPP V AI A S FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA X A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I exhibitions, traditional events The best fashion designers 44 ESSENTIALS V. G. MARCONI IR URNO O U NT V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOL Chiesa San Jacopino VIA DEI CA V I L A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO A L 'A S O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI R PIAZZA VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO A VASARI N U N A VI M Information and tips IF SAVONAROLA V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O I Fireworks at Palazzo Corsini and music. for your high-end AC A O VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . 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BAUSI PIAZZALE L L A A VIA DEI SETTE SANTI VIA DELLA FORTEZZA EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G (21-29 September) C BAMBINE E BAMBINI best that FlorencePIAZZA R Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia GIFTPasserella GUIDE dell'Isolotto B B AI VIA D 11 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI Photo:VIA MASSA Pressphoto A ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI R V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIA SAN GALLO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA has to offer DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V O DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE Giardino IA A VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A Take advantage of your stay di Valfonda N N E L L I P FASHION OUTLETS ONTANELLI LEOPOLDA 30 A D N O F L A V Teatro dell’Opera EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO A Z N E A F A VIA GIAMBOLOGNA A Convento T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RA F Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPP P O O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA N I PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO in Florence to enjoy a pick Several of the best shopping L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I A LARGO L G E V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO V V AI M Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I V AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A of the best high-quality items.A R N O destinations not far S A C C OI San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U from Florence, offeringV IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella I V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O MAP PAGES’ 46-47SO ERVI Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ARI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA www.whereitalia.com/florence . D A COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI A VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E discounts year-round. terina da Palazzo VI INI THE VITA NOVA a VI 14 .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A S a S Medici Riccardi O d P. DI MADONNA Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci A C VIALE MANFREDO FA L’ISOLOTTO V. R Basilica A V AI D E G L IA VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO Download all issues DEGL L VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI C A

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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® [ SIGHTSEEING] WELCOME TO ITALY ® MORE AT PAGE 40 whereMAGAZINE Florence www.whereitalia.com/florence MAP PAGES ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Top in town 46-47 PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 1 3 T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing [email protected] with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary www.whereitalia.com/florence PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who Andrea Jarach more than any other represents Italy throughout [email protected]) the world. Andrea Jarach EDITORIAL Publisher Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome MANAGING DIRECTOR Where® will host a series of special events. The full program Daniele Misrachi of Italian exhibitions and events honouring ([email protected]) Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. MANAGING EDITOR Alessandra Finzi We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person ([email protected])

considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. CONTRIBUTORS While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli 6 2 and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY medicine and art. City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. MARKETING & ADVERTISING If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect ([email protected])

a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting! ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto Discover in Anchiano, just 3 km ([email protected]) from Vinci, the house where the Great Genius was born PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, on 15 April 1452. SALES SUPPORT MANAGER SHUTTERSTOCK Below, Leonardo’s birthplace Paola Grilli is surrounded by a landscape ([email protected]) almost untouched by time.

www.museoleonardiano.it HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER PHOTOS © Maria Granata ([email protected]) DUOMO AND CUPOLA seat of civil power and social heart of the PONTE VECCHIO CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the The official date of foundation of the current ([email protected]) in Florence was the largest Christian church seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire in the world. Today the religious building, the the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. prominent in the square are the Fountain of At the end of the 16th century, however, Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Neptune and a series of statues of when it became the “noble” zone of the city, apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, Renaissance origin, representing one of the the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the 1 information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences is a symbol known all over the world. most important sculptural cycles in the and they have been there uninterruptedly arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. world. The most famous is certainly to this day. 5 CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the whereas the original is conserved in the PALAZZO PITTI WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main Galleria dell’Accademia). 3 AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION components of the complex of Santa Maria The symbol of wealth and power, the del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI building was inhabited by the Medici, then marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, One of the most famous museums by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by in the world on account of its extraordinary Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. Where® magazine climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, collections of ancient sculptures and The original architecture dates back to the and the where® logo are registered from where you can enjoy extraordinary views paintings (from the Middle Ages to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its MVP trademarks of Morris 2 Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. of Brunelleschi’s Dome. modern age). first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS The Gallery occupies the first and second at the foot of Boboli Hill. MVP EXECUTIVE PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA floors of the large building erected between The Boboli Gardens are one of the most CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III AND PALAZZO VECCHIO 1560 and 1580 based on a project by important examples of Italian-style gardens PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV This is the central square of Florence, the Giorgio Vasari 4 in the world. 6 MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

2 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 3 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN CHIANTI

Landscape architecture

About 45 minutes by car from Florence, the Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico region combines an age-old family tradition with an avant-garde structure, for an immersive experience going far beyond simple wine-tasting.

Immersed in the extraordinary Chianti landscape, amid gentle hills, endless vineyards and old olive-groves, the Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico welcomes you with its ultramodern architecture and all the ancient know-how of the Antinori Marquises.

The Antinori Family has been dedicated to producing wines for more than six hundred years now, managing the activity with innovative choices, but maintaining an unchanged respect for the traditions and for the territory.

This low environmental impact, high energy-saving structure overlooks the surrounding countryside where Sangiovese grapes are grown, together with the other varieties of grape that have historically been placed alongside them.

Here it is possible to immerse yourself in an itinerary that is architectural, gustatory and emotional at the same time, revealing the majesty of the wine cellar and the elegance of Antinori wines. Various tasting itineraries are available: from the simpler one, for those approaching the world of Marchesi Antinori to the more complete one, which includes a tasting of seven wines and lunch at the “Rinuccio 1180” restaurant.

Cantina Antinori Via Cassia per Siena, 133 Loc. Bargino, San Casciano Val di Pesa (Florence) T: 055 2359700. antinorichianticlassico.it

4 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

ART WEEK

THE GREAT EXHIBITION OF ITALIAN ART 21 29 It is the edition SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER marking the 60th year, an extraordinary achievement for the Florence International Biennial Antiques Fair, the second event in the world for ancient art. With 77 specialist galleries, protagonists of the world art market, the BIAF represents an opportunity to see, all together in one place – the splendid Palazzo Corsini overlooking the Arno – unique pieces of Italian art, from Canaletto to Tiepolo, to Bernini, to De Chirico. The first “Florence Art Week” will also take place on the occasion of the Biennale: this is a week of events, exhibitions, performances and meetings that will involve Florentine museums and galleries, the most prestigious artisan firms as well as the boutiques of Via Tornabuoni and the Ponte Vecchio, which will propose unusual events that are open to both collectors and the general public.

BIAF XXXI EDITION – BIENNALE INTERNAZIONALE DELL’ANTIQUARIATO DI FIRENZE Palazzo Corsini, lungarno Corsini www.biaf.it PRESSPHOTO © SEPTEMBER

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s Lucio Fontana, Concetto Spaziale (1964-65), Private Collection. ARTURO SANCHEZ SANCHEZ ARTURO PRESSPHOTO

unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA Dickinson Private Advisors & Fine Art Dealers © ©

6 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

HAPPY ENDING FOLKLORE

JULY-OCTOBER THE VASE HAS NEW WINE ENTERS THE CITY COME BACK HOME ►The arrival of the “Carro Matto” (literally the “Crazy Wagon”) in the city and the blessing of ► “Vase of Flowers” by Jan van Huysum – the most famous painter of still lifes who was active in the Netherlands in the the Chianti wine is one of the great traditions early 18th century – has finally returned home, to Palazzo of Renaissance Florence. The “Carro Matto” is 28 a genuine masterpiece of engineering, with Pitti, after a 75-year absence. In 1824 Grand Duke Leopold II of Habsburg-Lorraine had acquired it to complete the largest SEPTEMBER around 2000 fragile fiaschi (the classic Tuscan collection of still lifes in the world, but in July 1944 it was blown-glass bottles, protected by straw) stacked stolen by the German troops. On 19 July German Foreign in a pyramid in a miraculous balancing act. In the afternoon of the Minister Heiko Maas brought it back to Florence, returning last Saturday of September it enters Florence hauled by oxen of the it to the Director of the Uffizi Galleries, Eike Schmidt. Until Chianina breed, there follows the blessing of the wine in the square October it is possible to admire it on display in the Music of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and its subsequent Room of the Palatine Gallery of Palazzo Pitti, before it returns transferring – escorted by the Historic Procession – to Piazza della to its original position, in the Putti Room. Signoria for a feast with flag-wavers. Carro Matto

JAN VAN HUYSUM Vase of Flowers DAMIANO VERDIANI Galleria Palatina, Palazzo Pitti. Piazza Pitti Above. The black-and-white photo From 3.30pm procession through the streets of the centre www.uffizi.it of Van Huysum’s still life between from Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Signoria

the Director of the Uffizi Galleries PHOTO © Eike Schmidt (left) and German Foreign Minister Heiko Mass. TRADITION Left. The painting stolen by Nazi troops FESTIVAL from the Uffizi Gallery in 1943. THE NIGHT OF THE LANTERNS BENEATH THE STARS OF JAZZ ▼ In the cool district of Oltrarno, the rive ▼ The origins of this much gauche of Florence, a Festival with an unusual 7 loved feast date back to the formula: not a festival of concerts with SEPTEMBER 17th century, when in order 12 15 “traditional” stages, but music brought right to celebrate the Nativity of the SEPTEMBER COLLECTION to the people using different locations, from Madonna in the Basilica della Santissima Annunziata historic clubs to premises that do not usually host live music or else present the many people who had come into the city with other genres, to the streets, churches, squares, gardens and museums. THE TREASURES their families from the surrounding countryside The festival occupies unusual spaces with events of great scenic charm, lit up the itinerary with lanterns of various kinds, OF THE BANK providing an innovative acoustic experiment. Four intense days with The Fondazione CR Firenze, a foundation known as “rificolone”, hung from the top of sticks, ◄ unpredictable installations, light designs and great music. 14 15 of banking origin, possesses a collection of reeds or poles. Over time the lanterns have changed their appearance and today they depict all kinds of SEPTEMBER artworks of great beauty, with paintings by Firenze Jazz Festival 2019 authors covering a period from the 14th to things: watermelon slices, crescent moons, lights, Oltrarno, various locations the 20th century: from the ancient masters, multi-coloured suns. The feast commences at 8pm www.firenzejazzfestival.it such as Giotto and Mariotto di Nardo, to in Piazza Santa Felicita, passes through Piazza della Renaissance artists such as Filippino Lippi Signoria with the procession called the Corteo and Giorgio Vasari, from the Macchiaioli delle Rificolone and arrives in Piazza Santissima and naturalist painters, such as Giovanni Annunziata for the final festival with music and the Fattori and Odoardo Borrani, to the Italian awarding of a prize to the most beautiful rificolona. Novecento, plus a series of views of Florence Festa della Rificolona executed between the 17th and 19th Historic Centre - Piazza della Santissima Annunziata centuries. The most precious part of the collection is open to the public two days a month on an exceptional basis, by prior reservation (T: 055 5384001, incollezione@ fcrf.it) and with entry and guided visit free of charge. A rare and unmissable opportunity to see otherwise inaccessible works.

In collezione. Un percorso d’arte dal XIII al XX secolo Visits at 11am, noon, 3.30pm, 4.30pm Lorenzo Viani, Inglesi a Bagni di Lucca Fondazione CR Firenze. Via Bufalini, 6 www.fondazionecrfirenze.it/in-collezione

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TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE

6 JANUARY 1 MAY 26 JULY ◄ MARZI Made of high-quality wool, this cloche hat CAVALCATA DEI MAGI TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI FESTA DI SANT’ANNA GIFT with contrasting double ribbon A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany A contest between historical groups of A secular and religious festival held near is the perfect synthesis of design when Three Wise Men brought gifts the church of Orsanmichele, in which the flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai and Florentine hand crafting techniques of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the combined with an avant-garde style. Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes in Piazza della Signoria. city, is venerated. GUIDE www.marzi.com place wearing splendid fifteenth-century costumes. THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY 10 AUGUST Take advantage of a stroll PALIO DEL BALUARDO FESTA DI SAN LORENZO through Florence to treat A crossbow shooting competition to It takes place in the morning with a yourself to a jewellery item, commemorate the birth of the Florentine “Historical Procession of the Florentine an accessory, or some other ► THE MERCHANT OF VENICE Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa Inspired by the train of a peacock, the Medici were expelled from Florence. through the streets of the historic centre to alluring detail of style. this glass bottle holds the The competition is held at the Bastione the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, Where® brings you a pick ‘Imperial Emerald’ fragrance. known as the Fonte della Ginevra. in Piazza San Lorenzo. of the best seasonal trends! Notes of citrus, iris poudré and ylang ylang are combined with a floral bouquet to give rise 23 MAY END OF SEPTEMBER to a sophisticated fragrance. ELENA.KATKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ELENA.KATKOVA LA FIORITA BACCO ARTIGIANO www.themerchantofvenice.com A Florentine tradition celebrating the A traditional Festival of Wine and the PHOTO © burning at the stake of Dominican preacher outstanding products of the territory. CAVALCATA DEI MAGI Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial Concomitant entertainment events are figure in the city’s history. A wreath of also held to mark the occasion. flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to 18 FEBRUARY him in Piazza della Signoria, after which ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE rose petals are thrown into the Arno from ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Ponte Vecchio. Celebration of the last heir of the Medici dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures 24 JUNE including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL is all due to her. To mark the occasion, CALCIO STORICO ◄ PODERI LUIGI EINAUDI some municipal museums allow access A contest that has taken place in Piazza SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ‘Barolo Ludo’s’ creative packaging free of charge. Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of ▲ OFFICINE PANERAI St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of ‘Luminor Due’ combines the traditional in assemblable wood plays with colours PHOTO © the city. Highly competitive, it combines design in steel with its minimalist that recall the 4 Crus from which football, rugby and wrestling and is held as FESTA DI SAN LORENZO 25 MARCH shape with a new 38mm case, it takes its name: Bussia, Cannubi, the culmination of a tournament between CAPODANNO FIORENTINO to fit even the slimmest wrists. Terlo and Monvigliero grapes. teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated www.poderieinaudi.com White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa 8 OCTOBER Available with beige since before the advent of the Gregorian Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni or lime green strap. Calendar (1582), with a parade through FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA and Blue from Santa Croce. www.panerai.com the central streets of the city in historical At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the costumes. ceremony is held of the offering of candles in the crypt. According to the legend it was thanks to the miraculous intercession EASTER of Saint Reparata that the Florentines succeeded in repelling the siege of the ◄ IL BISONTE SCOPPIO DEL CARRO Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked The Il Bisonte logo serves as the A popular secular and religious the triumph of Christianity in Florence. protagonist of the new 2019/20 tradition that dates back to the time autumn/winter collections, of the Crusades. A procession with becoming a style detail on shoppers, percussionists and flag-wavers in END OF DECEMBER clutch bags, half-moon bags historical costumes, city officials and Cosentino canvas slips-ons and representatives of the clergy, FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic An ancient folkloristic event in which the in various shades. www.ilbisonte.com tower from the church of SS. Apostoli “Procession of the Florentine Republic” to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is addresses the civil and religious authorities set alight. CALCIO STORICO to wish them good luck during the festivities.

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A contemporary world behind a Renaissance façade. Despite what you may think, The Florence entrusts its palaces, gardens and historical spaces to the requirements of the present, creating a fascinating dialogue between past and avant-garde. In this way it is constantly renewed and, on each occasion, Vita Nova comes to embrace a new season. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI of Florence Natalia Goncharova, Self portrait (1907) he entire magazine would not be enough to describe all the artistic and cultural heritage that is safeguarded in Florence, let alone just a few pages. For this reason we at Where® Florence thought it would be a good idea instead to give you some suggestions for visiting the city from a less obvious point of view, that of contemporaryT art. In the collective imagination Florence is a city inextricably associated with the Renaissance. In reality today, as then, it continues to be an artistic nerve centre and, in recent times, it has developed a surprising vocation for artistic innovation, turning its attention to the contemporary panorama in particular. And it has done so by promoting new expressive languages and new avant-gardes, with the aid of an administration that has brought artists of the calibre of Jeff Koons, Jan Fabre, Ai Wei Wei, Carsten Holler and Marina Abramovich to the Tuscan capital. Today in Florence it is not uncommon to find works by contemporary artists of international renown forming dialogues with Renaissance buildings, statues, gardens and monuments, producing a creative context that is unique in the world. And how can we not also think of the countless galleries, the significant centres of contemporary culture, the installations, the sculpture parks spread out over the territory and the fascinating 20th-century architectures? Today, in the Tuscan capital, iconic monuments such as the Ponte Vecchio or the Uffizi are also enhanced by light effects created using avant-garde techniques, in a successful marriage of ancient and modern. Museums between past and present Built on the orders of Filippo Strozzi in the late 15th century, Palazzo Strozzi, a typical noble dwelling of the period, which is almost reminiscent of a small fortress, epitomises the association, by now perfectly consolidated, between the Florence Renaissance and contemporary art. It remained under the ownership of the family of the same name until 1937, and, after various passages of ownership, after the Second World War it became the space of choice in Florence for major temporary exhibitions. While displays are organised in the exhibition environments of the main floor and the Strozzina ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to the modern age and contemporary art, in the courtyard concerts, performances, installations and stage plays take place. The programmes and collateral events that accompany every exhibition make those at Palazzo Strozzi a unique experience, involving all visitors irrespective of their age. One example to prove the point is Carsten Holler’s slide, a project by the German artist that stood last year in the courtyard of the palace giving all those brave enough to go down it an experience with a huge adrenaline rush. From 28 September Palazzo Strozzi plays host to the Tony Cragg, Castor & Pollux (2015) Museo Marino Marini. Photo© Dario Lasagni

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spaces proper, enabling the gallery to establish itself in the historical memory of the city, in the usual combination of past and present. Here contemporary works by major artists, including Auguste Rodin, Amedeo Modigliani and Andy Warhol, find their home, but there are also young talents from the national and international panorama, in addition to temporary exhibitions and events (ariaartgallery.com/aria-florence). Another place to visit is certainly Le Murate, a former cloistered convent, then a prison, which has been restored and transformed following a and project by Renzo Piano. Today it is the site of one interactive of the best loved places in Florence, Le Murate display approach, it celebrates the past and Caffè Letterario, which also hosts temporary art present of the brand through iconic garments SHUTTERSTOCK.COM exhibitions, installations, workshops and open-air and accessories, contemporary objects, Jean-Michel Folon, Partir (2002) at the Rose Garden Caffè Letterario at Le Murate concerts. Since its inauguration over 200 events, memorabilia and contemporary art. And then

PHOTO © exhibitions, plays, workshops, meetings and interactive videos, graphics, documents (www. performances have taken place there. gucci.com). exhibition “Natalia Goncharova. A woman and church’s original architecture. This is a church, of works by Ottone Rosai, a master of Tuscan garden. Today this fortress, open exclusively A genuine workshop of creativity, with particular Have you had enough yet? If not, then go the avant-garde, between Gauguin, Matisse and furthermore, that holds a treasure: The Little art of the 20th century, whose paintings are from June to October for the purpose of attention devoted to the languages of the to Via Tornabuoni, Florence’s main shopping Picasso” (www.palazzostrozzi.org). Temple of the Holy Sepulchre, conserved in characterised by an original dialogue between holding temporary exhibitions, pursues its contemporary world and experimentation street, where, inside the medieval Palazzo Let us bring together one of the most important the chapel of the same name, which is the only harsh realism and expressionist technique. display vocation, begun in the second half of (www.lemurate.it - www.lemuratepac.it). Spini Feroni, you will find the entire universe Italian artists of the 20th century, a sculptor part still consecrated of the former church of In addition to the permanent collection, the the last century, by hosting top-level events and of Salvatore Ferragamo. This includes the but also a painter, and a religious building the San Pancrazio (to visit it, you need to purchase temporary exhibitions, the programming of the exhibitions. In particular we may remember, Art and fashion, then Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, inaugurated construction of which seems to date as far back a separate ticket when you book). The space Cinema and Conference Room and the special among the many exhibitions that remain in … shopping in 1995, an exhibition space devoted to the as the time of Charlemagne and which, over the also hosts temporary exhibitions, events and projects in the loggia enliven the activities of the the memories of Florentines and visitors, the stylist’s story and international activities. And centuries, has been transformed on a number demonstrations, ranging from fashion to culture, Museum with thematic and multidisciplinary one by Henry Moore in 1972, who said the The eternal marriage of art and fashion in then the boutique, located on the ground of occasions, until it was finally deconsecrated. to design. Until 8 September you can visit investigations. Until 12 September you can following of the site: «There is indeed nowhere Florence is expressed through exceptional floor of the building, where, beneath a ceiling Then we may add a modern and painstaking AION, the sculptures by Franco-Brazilian artist visit the exhibition: “In the 20th Century. From better in the world to display sculpture in the “company museums” that boost both sectors decorated with 18th-century frescos, it is restoration, from the 1980s onwards, understood Louise Manzon, which combine the incessant Modigliani to Schiele, from De Chirico to Licini” open air in relation to architecture and a city in a contemporary panorama that requires possible to purchase all the collections by the not as the mere exercising of abstract upgrading, flow of time with the constant repetition of the (www.museonovecento.it). than the Forte di Belvedere, with its imposing new creative impulses and new paths to follow. fashion house: men’s, women’s, accessories but in order for adaptation to a future museum phenomenon of migration (museomarinomarini. surroundings and marvellous views of Florence». This is the case of the Gucci Garden, which and perfumes. Finally, there is the “Ferragamo’s vocation. The result? The Museo Marino Marini, it). In 2014, the Museum of the 20th Century, Until 20 October, Forte Belvedere plays host includes a Gucci boutique, the Gucci Osteria da Creations” corner, the exclusive footwear a site that today conserves almost two hundred devoted to the art of that era, found its home Open air art to two important Italian artists. Massimo Listri, Massimo Bottura restaurant and an exhibition line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic works by Marino Marini, with a layout developed in the ancient Ospedale delle Leopoldine, In addition to the great historical buildings that master of architectural and environmental area curated by fashion critic Maria Luisa models. Currently, and until March 2020, at the over a number of levels: the sculptures, made of in Piazza Santa Maria Novella. A selection of have become centres for the irradiation of art photography, who in “A perfect day” presents a Frisa. Hosted inside the historic Palazzo della Salvatore Ferragamo Museum you can visit the bronze and cement, are distributed around all works from the civic collections illustrates the and culture and to the “conventional” galleries, series of Florentine views. On the bastions and Mercanzia in Florence, in Piazza della Signoria, “Sustainable Thinking” exhibition, which has the the floors, while multi-coloured plaster casts and Italian art of the first half of the 20th century. Florence is also blessed with a series of genuine inside the Forte, on the other hand, twelve metal the Gucci Gallery comprises various themed aim of prompting reflections on the theme of canvases, portraits and drawings are spread over The Alberto Della Ragione collection is of outdoor galleries. One open-air museum par sculptures of large dimensions are displayed, in rooms structured over two floors. Organised sustainability through displays of fashion and art the various levels. The modern and innovative great merit, with works by Giorgio De Chirico, excellence is the very famous Boboli Gardens. addition to a wall painting, by Davide Rivalta, an according to thematic areas, with a dynamic (www.ferragamo.com).. interior design offers not only a charming Filippo De Pisis, Gino Severini, Giorgio Morandi, Created as the Grand Duke’s green space artist capable of subverting, through sculpture, setting for the works of art on display, but also Mario Mafai, Renato Guttuso, Felice Casorati for Palazzo Pitti, for years now it has hosted the figurative reproduction of the animal world succeeds in emphasising what remains of the and others. Worthy of note is also the corpus exhibitions of art, painting, sculpture and design, (cultura.comune.fi.it). in a continuous dialogue with architecture and In the Oltrarno, climbing up towards Piazzale landscape. In this exceptional naturalistic jewel, Michelangelo, you will find the charming currently standing out against the sky are steel Rose Garden, which, in addition to the Florence also has its own Biennale geysers, sprouting out among the hedges are marvellous rose garden itself, also contains ten Perhaps it is not as famous as the one in Venice, but since 1997 Florence has also had its own bronze stalagmites and gigantic resin flowers, bronze sculptures by Belgian artist Jean-Michel Biennale of art. During every edition, the artists, organised in the various artistic categories, colossal stalk and interweavings of fossil forests. Folon, perfectly integrated into the surrounding receive the “Lorenzo the Magnificent” International Award, assigned by a jury consisting of These are the monumental works by English nature. Here you can also admire the Japanese prominent personalities from the world of art and culture. The next edition, scheduled from artist Tony Cragg, one of the most acclaimed oasis of Shorai, a gift from the Prefecture of 18 to 27 October at the Fortezza da Basso, focuses on the theme “Ars et ingenium”: as part exponents of contemporary sculpture, which Kyoto, a city twinned with Florence. Another of the celebrations to mark the five hundredth anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, can be found spread out around the gardens place to discover if you love contemporary it proposes a reflection on the cognitive and creative approach of the master of the Renaissance. until 27 October. (www.uffizi.it/giardino- art is the Aria Art Gallery, located in the heart An inexhaustible source of inspiration, Da Vinci’s works will be interpreted through the most boboli). From Boboli you can easily reach Forte of the historic centre, a few yards from Ponte disparate languages of art by authors coming from very diverse origins, cultures, trainings and Belvedere, a fortress the construction of which Santa Trinita. An ancient garden, reinterpreted careers, who are preparing to take part in the XII Florence Biennale (www.florencebiennale.org). was started in 1590 on the orders of Ferdinando in a tropical vein, holds sculptures and works I de’ Medici, behind the walls surrounding the of various kinds and leads to the exhibition Salvatore Ferragamo Museum

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seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical

Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro PHOTO © town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces characteristic medieval architecture. It is the Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the medieval towns and culinary festivals. heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking small town of Settignano. round this small town, the 13th/14th-century The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for TUSCANY BIKING appearance of which is still practically its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, Would you like to discover the area around unchanged, is almost like going back in time. olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, Florence from a different perspective, more

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM San Gimignano is famous above all for its is around half an hour by car from the centre of on a human scale and in contact with medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. one time and today are just fifteen, including between September and November you can Pedalling along the romantic olive groves,

Siena city panoramic skyline, countryside and rolling hills in a misty day. PHOTO © some in ruins and without their tops but still witness two key events for the economy vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, visible as part of the urban fabric. and culture of the territory: the harvesting taking in the perfumes and colours of the of grapes and olives. Tuscan countryside in ways that would the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move otherwise be impossible. After the effort of Renaissance squares and buildings and Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest Roman amphitheatres. and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south- and refreshment with visits to wine cellars Nature and art The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also both on foot and on the numerous buses east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local be easily reached from Florence in about departing from the city centre. Over the years of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. specialities. If you are not particularly sporty an hour by train. Loved by tourists from the hill of Fiesole has been the source of These bare, softly undulating hills, with their but would still like to visit the outskirts of If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar Florence from this unique perspective, then the good news is that around an hour Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this appearance, are dotted with cypresses and you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that an unrivalled cultural and away by train, bus or car you will find the Cathedral, which stands in a unique privileged observatory, dotted with villas, farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy monumental context, declared a UNESCO museums, archaeological excavations, churches of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far less tiring. Ask your concierge. surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs, World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. medieval towns and abbeys and Once you’ve completed your visit to this Here are some suggestions kilometresI of coastline for bathers. unbelievable square, if you have a little time for trips outside the city that left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing For more details ask right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today architectural wonders that will catapult you houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. the most prestigious universities in the world. About an hour by train from Florence is With a brief trip by coach from Florence you Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval historic centres, surrounded by ancient centres in Italy, which is also included on 16th-century walls, today still practically fully the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s intact and walkable in their entirely. You can nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a renowned for its unique shell shape, for its

tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the architectural integrity, and because twice a SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM benches. The picturesque historic centre has year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio

remained almost intact, including countless di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental Fiesole, Roman Theatre PHOTO © PHOTO © medieval churches, which have earned Lucca importance for the Sienese, which sees the

18 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 19 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & W The Guidelines M H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of R . C ACCESSORIES E T R R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of clothing items for every type of woman. In at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the addition, hats, bags and other accessories from coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from articles personally to combine with and complete 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open on Sundays (except those located in central Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Florence) and on Monday mornings. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 Ask your concierge. Anichini Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children generally included in the price of goods. where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the TAX-FREE SHOPPING best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, and exported from the EU: before finalizing located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, FERRARI PHOTO © PIERPAOLO 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 Aspesi e-mail: [email protected] The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran Shopping and UnionPay is an international bankcard association Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, based in China and serves the world’s largest elegant details and natural materials. His current quality music cardholder base. With more than 7 billion collections are still based on the original “no frills” cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their Valdichiana Outlet Village, the Tuscan “Land the mayor payment method of the outbound outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. of Fashion”, lies between the provinces of Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 Arezzo and Siena, at the intersection of merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. important communication routes such as payment, among which 9,000 merchants are T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- located in Florence. This allows hundred of 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, the A1 (Valdichiana exit) and the Siena- thousands of affluent Chinese customers to 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 Perugia dual carriageway (Bettolle exit). shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also Brunello Cucinelli Inside the village, which is reminiscent of a actively work with famous retail groups, such The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed typical Tuscan town, you can find the most as the Rinascente department stores, The up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian famous clothing labels from fashion and Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in provide special discount or services for UnionPay Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder sport, in addition to footwear, accessories, cardholders. Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the jewellery, items for the home and much production of high-quality cashmere knitwear DINING more besides. There are 140 stores present, and today boasts top-level production with total Reservations for most restaurants are strongly with discounts of between 30% and 70% An unforgettable fragrance trail look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is advised. In Italy, service is included in the throughout the year, all amounting to a seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its price meaning that although tipping is not In The Merchant of Venice boutique you can immerse yourself in the brand’s new, enveloping fragrance, support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, complete, high-quality commercial offer. compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as defining itself as “a humanistic company”. For example, it is possible to find Adidas, which draws its inspiration from the fascinating animal that is the peacock. By Chiara Zaccarelli a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. the word “coperto”, a small surcharge Asics, Baldinini, Borbonese, Brooks Brothers, Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 corresponding to the cost of the service and Calvin Klein, K-way, Gant, Gap, Guess, Geox, kaleidoscope of colours, all around the perfumiers. This new olfactory masterpiece pays accompany innovative patchouli to give rise to bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, Elena Mirò Levi’s, Liu Jo Uomo, Lindt, Nike, Piquadro, semiformal clothing is usually considered de tones of blue and emerald green, and homage to the elegance and wonder of Venice, an unforgettable trail. An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Replay, Samsonite, rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been A a tail with changing shades that have which are mirrored in its olfactory refinement The Merchant of Venice came about as a cultural are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that Skechers, Swatch, Timberland, Tommy left whoever sees it spellbound for millennia. We and in its high concentration of essential oils. project and proposes a vast Eau de Parfum area is specifically offered. enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, Hilfiger, Villeroy&Boch, Under Armour, are talking about what has always been one of The latter, in particular, guarantee a fragrance and Eau de Toilette range – accompanied by Set meals: prices are per person and usually refined and ever new style. From dresses to Us Polo and many more besides. the most enchanting and elegant creatures: the trail that is intense and lasting. The head notes personal and ambient products and accessories refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to Valdichiana Outlet also abounds in events € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure peacock, which, from East to West, has always are joyous, thanks to the citrus that nuances – inspired by the precious essences and spices and initiatives: on Saturday 7 September €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www. inspired myths and legends, and to which the the fragrance with a delicate shiver and is that the Venetians imported through the Mude, elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; the Village Night will combine quality most diverse significances have been attributed: accompanied by iris poudré and pink pepper naval convoys on routes connecting the Orient SIGHTSEEING Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 music, with the free concert by Giovanni The information provided on museums and 2657725. Map F3 beauty, longevity and love, but also vanity, in an exciting crescendo. Pulsating in the heart with Africa and Europe, as far the North Seas. The Allevi, with tasting of the best wines of monuments is verified as meticulously as luxury and pride. This mysterious animal has are ylang ylang and the absolute opulence Florentine boutique of The Merchant of Venice Giovanni Raspini Tuscany and the Italian Regions that host possible. However, data such as telephone In the beating heart of the fashion district, the inspired Imperial Emerald, the new fragrance of Chilean rosehip, added to which are a brand is located in the heart of the Medici city, a numbers, opening hours, prices and the the other Outlet Villages of the Land of boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in by The Merchant of Venice. Imperial Emerald bouquet of lily of the valley, the magnificence few yards from Palazzo Strozzi. accessibility of sites are all subject to change, Fashion network. Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration will enrich the Murano Exclusive Collection, of nocturnal jasmine, tuberose and orange a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized For info on opening times, visit work, museum loans or changes which represents the ideal combination of flowers. Perfectly combined in the base notes >> The Merchant of Venice layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands www.valdichianaoutlet.it and of management. Ask your concierge. the highest-quality Venetian artisanship and are sensual white amber and precious benzoin, Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. Map E3 out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often www.landoffashion.it. sophisticated fragrances created by expert while a creamy vanilla and an enveloping musk www.themerchantofvenice.com animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited

20 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 21 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands

CHANEL—www.chanel.com. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. With its delicate shades, this ‘Mimì ‘ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun Under the shower the ‘Un Jardin sur la Lagune’ handbag by FURLA is perfect for Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. gel by HERMÈS is transformed into between seasons. Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat T: 055 219041. Map E3 Map F3 a delicate mousse. 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Map E3 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. T: 055 290284. Map F3 Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. Sun 10am-7.30pm. Open Via Roma, 32/r. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. T: 055 212995. Map E4 Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am- • Garden. Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della MISSONI—www.misson.com. Map F3 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927010. Map F4 Open daily 10am-7pm. ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open T: 055 2670157. Map E4 Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- T: 055 215774. Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; 7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am- Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. T: 055 219423. Map E3 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. T: 055 287931. Map E4 DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily T: 055 2608931. Map F3 Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. T: 055 9040090. Map E4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, Map E3 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, The ‘Vally’ ankle strap shoe by Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. DOLCE&GABBANA is made of brocade 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. with painted resin lilium embroidery. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Map E3 T: 055 219179. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli T: 055 288539. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. PRADA—www. prada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. T: 055 264254. Map E3 HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; T: 055 286035. Map E3 ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. • Open daily 10am-7pm. 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via T: 055 2741013. Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. T: 055 267471 Map E3 www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily T: 055 2670086. Map D3 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 055 285832. Map F3 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. T: 055 294909. Map F4 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily T: 055 212305 Map E3 T: 055 9040100. Map E3 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— T: 055 2396786. Map E4 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. T: 055 2398688. Map E4 T: 055 2382883. Map F4 T: 055 292123. Map E4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. STEFANO RICCI— Map E4 Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. www.stefanoricci.com. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Monochrome in the tones of bright fuchsia, overlaps and Palazzo Tornabuoni - This silk foulard by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. the use of timeless tweed are the protagonists of the 2019/20 prêt-à-porter MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Via dei Pescioni, 1. bears the illustration of the tree of life. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. collections by CHANEL. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 210856. Map F3 T: 055 292347. Map E4

22 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING SHOPPING

edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags in short, are the values of the company founded in Headquarters & Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: colour and shape. Her creations have been used as pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www. crafted white bronze creations, always having a style and accessories for a total look that exudes class 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now 055 2381870. Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: accessories by famous television and film producers. dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. that is midway between minimalism and classicism and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat in its second generation, has become a successful 055 2396039. Map D3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4 The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a as the common denominator. From the design to the 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente-Piazza international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and Papiro (Il) look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond-setting, della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces blend of contemporary and classical taste. www. each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily Map F3 to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the Fani Gioielli objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Tues- 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Rossa, SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Société Anonyme tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 represents Italian excellence all over the world, making Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and An independent shop of North-European conception photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition to a line T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Luisaviaroma inspired by the underground atmospheres of the of classic leather accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44- craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. 46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4 the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a landmark for York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1 territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Annamaria Cammilli Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano Pitti Mosaici A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo has been present with its creations in shop windows a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district T: 055 212075. Map E3 and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of and display cases all over the world for over 30 years purchasing experience: instead of displaying the of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious Massai Orafi garments, they have been replaced with interactive renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed and women’s collection that is only sold in-store and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature Map E3 for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli.com. atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm- art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3 Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. DEPARTMENT STORES 7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines Marina Rinaldi Rinascente Map L3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6 Aprosio workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide Stefano Ricci discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master range of collections, featuring both contemporary Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with and design items. For women, proposals of the best Richard Ginori 1735 jewellery accessories and products for decorating goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, Italian and international brands range from the classic Tradition and excellence in the high-quality artistic interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia carving and engraving traditions typical of the to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart manufacture of porcelain. The Richard Ginori “artistic crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury factory”, of 18th-century origin, still produces 7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: 055 210127. Map E2 Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and accessories for the table and living room and works T: 055 294800. Map F4 the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km from Florence) Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della using ancient working techniques. Italian style and Cassetti 1926 Officine Panerai Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 international trends. www.richardginori1735.com. In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts FINE ART Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via ei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish 210041. that develops innovative projects with its own artisan designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working Antico Setificio Fiorentino Map E2 collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great first floor is devoted to special sales and another is Torchio (Il) Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5 tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting also to its famous warping machine based on a design Damiani historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand- been producing some of the most sumptuous silk goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai. marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza new artisan articles with contemporary materials and 100% made in Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2 Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio.com.Open Mon-Fri values of Damiani jewellery. Their collections are L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6 the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Galleria Romanelli world. www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three precious sculpture artwork for six generations in JEWELLERY & WATCHES Map E4 display tables; the first floor has two rooms for one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Angela Caputi Giuggiù reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned Dodo customer care centre, where qualified Rolex a meeting place for buyers and artists, where throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 technicians are available to look after the precious sculptors and their students carry out their work daily made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work combined to create unique objects both in terms of collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5 is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk Perfume of Florence replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. The boutique of the Venetian brand of artistic perfumery The Merchant of Venice is www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open Mon-Fri located in the heart of the Medici city, a few yards from Palazzo Strozzi. Those who cross the 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396 0 47. Map C4 threshold are immersed in the perfumed world of The Merchant of Venice, structured into ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ a vast Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette range, complemented by personal and ambient Leone Cei & Sons Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building products and accessories. Here you can also become inebriated by Imperial Emerald, tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the the brand’s new fragrance, inspired by an animal both fascinating and mysterious: the faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart peacock. A bird that, from East to West, has always inspired myths and legends, and to and abundant archive. The production, entirely made of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. which the most diverse significances have been attributed: beauty, longevity and love, but in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by international customers, are genuinely unique pieces also vanity, luxury and pride. Imperial Emerald, with its ylang ylang heart and the absolute and private clubs all over the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering work is performed of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique opulence of Chilean rosehip, energised by citrus, iris poudré and pink pepper, will enrich rigorously by hand following traditional procedures it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items the Murano Exclusive Collection, which represents the ideal combination of the highest- and using natural products and pigmentations. and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. quality Venetian artisanship and sophisticated fragrances. This new olfactory masterpiece A huge department is dedicated to fabrics for pays homage to the elegance and wonder of Venice, which are mirrored in its olfactory furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still produced www.angelacaputi.com on ancient looms or limited editions, or produced on refinement and in its high concentration of essential oils. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 request and based on customers’ designs. Qualified Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. www.themerchantofvenice.com consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com.

24 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE]

Tiffany & Co. Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, The best shopping the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most Tax Free beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with Refund Guide purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. and services, and is part of the European Union’s www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun value added tax system. 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a Map C4 VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services Vacheron Constantin Boutique supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking • you are a non-EU resident; design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is also known for the • the goods purchased are intended for personal or tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child family use only and are carried in your luggage; and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds oratory of the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the 154,94 Euro (VAT included); control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, should include a description of the goods purchased, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5 your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; LEATHER • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the Cuoieria Fiorentina third month after the month that you bought them; From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of The necklace of the ‘Oceano’ collection • several specific customs formalities are the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of by ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ is a tribute complied with; this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products to the colours of the sea and the lively • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer are created with extreme care and top-quality natural creatures that live there. materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel within four months after the purchase was made. bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must for him and for her, offering excellent value for shown at the customs be exit point when leaving money. Another strong point is the personalization Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs requirements of customers, who can count Michelle 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5

BEFORE checking in). Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina. In the heart of Florence, you’ll find Rinascente: the ideal place Dr. Vranjes 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ to find the best in fashion, accessories, beauty and design. Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. The store has recently opened a new remarkable floor customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice Gianni Chiarini Florence is home to the laboratories and the must be returned within four months from the date Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance dedicated to women’s fashion, featuring the best of ready to wear, when the document was issued. ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary company founded and managed by the “nose”, the shoes, denim, sportswear and jewellery brands. bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the to the traditional production of ambient diffusers chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its The Rinascente department store in Florence, the Women’s Shoes areas truly is a hotbed Free” sign in its window). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift located in Piazza della Repubblica, which for artisanal products devoted entirely to 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the has been the commercial heart of the city women’s fashion. A brand new guise for the immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods Map D3 packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes. it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm- since the Roman Age, is spread over a total department store, which proposes, side-by- leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating Il Bisonte 7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • the passenger from having to return the invoice to Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came area of 3,300 square metres with seven side, clothes for her from accessible luxury Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3• Open Mon floors devoted to fashion, beauty, food and and advanced contemporary brands, ready for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo major international airports or main border crossings. 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm- lifestyle. As with the other points-of-sale to wear options, lingerie, bags, fragrances, Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand- Most major department stores have Tax Free 7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, around the peninsula, the space is giving jewellery, sunglasses, shoes from luxury Refund offices 241748. Map l3 . belts and other accessories epitomising the best of its look a makeover to make shopping brands such as Aquazzura, Casadei, Stuart 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on La Ménagère even more captivating and engrossing. Weitzman, Church’s and Fratelli Rossetti, the payment of a small administrative sum which materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store The thread running through that is driving as well as urban style sneakers. Foodies is directly deducted from the amount of VAT sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the of around 1500 square metres that includes a shop the renovation of the Florentine store is can enjoy the “Tosca&Nino, the taste of refunded to the traveller. advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. with design objects for the home, a florist, in addition 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city artisanship, a concept that is very dear to tradition” restaurant and bar, open from del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first within a reasonable period of time, he or she the city. The restyling involves all the store’s breakfast till after dinner, which focuses on Florentine household item shop, it combines industrial should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the spaces and will be completed towards rigorously selected Tuscan products to enable PASSION SHOPPING and recycled materials and design objects for a aforementioned companies. contemporary result with a romantic touch. www. the end of 2020. After the restoration of you to rediscover the pleasure of local food, 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded AquaFlor lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Ginori the fourth floor, offering a transversal from pappa al pomodoro to ribollita. A perfume shop with the charm of past times, 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1 directly by customs offices. shopping experience combining fashion, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of STORE: Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, Marioluca Giusti quality craftsmanship, design, beauty Sun 10.30am-8.30pm >> www.rinascente.it A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A products and food, the brand-new third ROOFTOP | RESTAURANT | CAFÉ: Piazza della Repubblica. studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno design objects for the table and more besides, in THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE floor featuring the Women’s Clothing and Mon-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun 10.30am-midnight T: 055 219113.

26 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 27 SHOPPING

a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat glass and melamine collections are enhanced every 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. year with new models with colour shades ranging T: 055 216559. Map E3 from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated Valli Tessuti Alta Moda by important international personalities such as the A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm- 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3 Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica SHOES di Santa Maria Novella Aquazzura UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo- luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with VALLI TESSUTI convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes ALTA MODA See this page. been open to the public for over four centuries have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty European royalty and fashion insiders around the products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets globe. www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. single brand stores and represent a production par Map D4 excellence on account of their quality raw materials Sizing and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid Salvatore Ferragamo of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside Women,s clothes environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the site of the IT EUR US UK Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their 36 32 1 4 former splendour thanks to restoration work. www. Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, 38 34 2 6 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2 accessories and perfume collections. The brand 40 36 4 8 represents Italian quality, contemporary elegance, 42 38 6 10 The Merchant of Venice innovation and tradition. The boutique occupies 44 40 8 12 NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast the entire ground floor of the building, inside large range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The 46 42 10 14 completed by products for personal care, for the wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita 48 44 12 16 environment and accessories. The essences are hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the contained in packaging with designs inspired by the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the Women,s shoes glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo.com. Open single-brand store provides a personalized layering daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ IT EUR US UK service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon- Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8

Men,s clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46

Men,s shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA 42 42 8.5 8 DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA 43 43 9 9 The Grand Sales Room, which you come to immediately after the entrance, was originally 44 44 10.5 10 one of the chapels of the ancient Dominican convent, then became a storeroom in the 45 45 11.5 11 18th century and finally a hall to welcome the customers of the pharmacy and apothecary. 46 46 12 12 www.smnovella.com

28 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019

6554_VOV_Where_Florence_207x277.indd 1 31/07/19 16:33 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour FORTE destinations The Mall Sanremo and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI ? MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia- With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

30 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 31 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM Classic. To find out where Pescecane will be amidst little tables and large windows. Huge FOOD SHOPS stopping, check the website www.pescepane.it. selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the Galanti It recently opened “La Cucina di Pescepane” in via whole of Florence. Open from lunch to after- Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well Carducci, where you can find the same specialities. supper, also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken Open Tues-Sun 12 noon-3pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside Via G. Carducci, 3 (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2346296. Map L2 or to take away. Wide selection of wines and T: 055 2344397. Map L3 home-made jams. Everything made with extra- Enoteca Bonatti Pugi virgin olive oil and prime quality ingredients. Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run Florentine’s favourite bread shop since 1925. www.gastronomiagalanti.com. Open Mon-Sat wine shop offers a wide selection of wines and Known for its schiacciata (a type of sponge cake), 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 spirits from all over Italy and abroad, with a reputed to be one of the best in town, in classic or 490359. Off Map particular focus on France. www.enotecabonatti. rustic versions, and for delicious stuffed focaccia, it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am- Giumella pizza, fritters and a vast range of breads and 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r. VEGAN With recipes based on the products pastries. www.fornopugi.it. Several locations: Piazza T: 055 660050. Off Map of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen San Marco, 9/b. T: 055 280981 (open Mon-Sat offers organic zero miles food, made the same 7.45am-8pm; Via San Gallo, 62/r. T: 055 475975 (open Signorvino day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and Mon-Fri 7.45am-3.15pm); Via G. Orsini, 63-65. T: 055 In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan 689763 (Open Mon-Sat 8.45am-7.45pm). Off Map Vecchio, the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina selected wines from the best Italian cantinas, with water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses WINE SHOPS applying the same formula used in its 15 outlets based on walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats across the country. It also does simple quality or rice flour. www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri Caffè 19.26 food from the various regions. The terrace has a 10.30am-8pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a wonderful view of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio. T: 393 8221084. Off Map selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and www.signorvino.com. Open daily 9.30am-midnight. champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5 Pegna With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3 STREET FOOD

Antico Vinaio If when walking along Via de’ Neri you happen to come across a queue of people with a hungry air, there can be no doubt: they are waiting for a schiacciata at the Antico Vinaio. Just a stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, it is considered among the best street food available in Italy: its filled schiacciata and boards of Tuscan cured Shopping and taste made in Italy meats, accompanied by a glass of Chianti, are eaten at the counter, on stools or walking around A stay at Eataly Firenze is the ideal solution for those who want to take a well-earned break to discover Florence. €. www.allanticovinaio.com. Via Dei Neri the Italian cuisine or to purchase fresh, top-quality products from the local tradition. By Giulia Minero 65/r. T: 055 2382723. Map G5 Cucciolo PASTRY SHOP Bar-patisserie in Via del Corso, urchase products from the Italian tradition such as Chianti Classico DOCG or Vernaccia di famed in the city for more than 40 years for its or take a regenerating break tasting local San Gimignano DOCG. From breakfast to lunch, “bomboloni” (fried doughnuts) baked on the spot, delicacies? Why choose, when it is possible as well as for snacks or aperitifs outdoors in a dunked in sugar and filled with cream or chocolate. P Worth a visit just for the show: the freshly made to satisfy both these desires in just one place? terrace overlooking Via De’ Martelli, the culinary bomboloni are carried up from the kitchen on a Vespa wine tour in Chianti In the heart of the historic centre, in fact, a few offer of Eataly Firenze is specially designed to ramp in full sight before depositing them directly Tuscany has recently begun to offer a vast series of tasting experiences, from cooking yards from the cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore satisfy the most diverse tastes at any time of day. in the sugar. Open Tues-Thurs 7.30am-10pm; Fri- ADVERTORIALclasses to walking tours to search mushrooms or truffles, or wine tasting sessions. In and with a view of the Baptistery, Eataly Firenze Standing out among the gastronomic proposals Sun 7.30am-midnight. Via del Corso, 25/r. Tuscany you can choose to explore the world of wine by visiting the wineries directly, T: 055 287727. Map G3 offers a selection of the best of the territory’s are Tuscan crostini, Spaghetti Eataly, trofie al where the producers themselves will show you the techniques for cultivating, harvesting products, including bakery products made pesto, Bolognese-style lasagne as well as regional Pescepane and producing the famous autochthonous wines, such as Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino with natural yeast, over 150 varieties of Italian dishes such as bistecca alla Fiorentina and fish FISH Panini, fish & chips, mozzarella in fried or Nobile di Montepulciano, after which you are obviously offered a tasting of the finished high quality cured pork products, including the specialities or vegetarian dishes. Pizza lovers can bread, fried fish … all some of the specialities product, often combined with the food of the territory. of this itinerant Street Seafood food truck. The Tuscan Finocchiona IGP [protected geographical also enjoy a special slow-rise version baked in a What could be more romantic than a wine tour in Tuscany riding on a Vespa? With the delicious and creative menu varies each day origin] and a vast assortment of cheeses to try wood-fired oven. depending on the availability of ingredients, “Full Day Vespa Wine Tour in Chianti” itinerary, proposed by De Gustibus, you will explore on the premises or take away. The Enoteca di using sustainable and high quality produce, often the Tuscan hills surrounding Radda in Chianti on your rumbling scooter, to then stop for Firenze, the gourmet corner devoted to wine >> Eataly Firenze organic, with vegetables of the season and home- lunch with a wine tasting session. www.de-gustibus.it lovers, boasts a vast selection of spirits, craft Via De Martelli, 22 R. Map F2 made sauces. Apart from the great food there is the visual appeal of the historic Italian Apecar beers and wines, with a focus on Tuscan labels T: 055 0153601. www.eataly.net

32 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TUSCAN CUISINE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. The “fiorentina” hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- Buca Mario relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary the most iconic dishes in Florence A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. cuisine. But be careful: to recognize Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 the original and tell it apart from the menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 hundreds of impostors, there are pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this a few tips you need to know. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, with unwritten rules that the visitor Map E5 because here the hamburger is accompanied by needs to know to avoid falling foul fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, Cibrèo Ristorante of the restaurant owner, paying over freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. the odds and to make sure they get In Florence and in the area near the Market of lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. the real thing. Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating Map G6 well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no L’Ortone from a specific cut of a young Chianina fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie cow, a part of the loin near the backbone Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image district, opposite the charming street market, the of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus which has a T-bone in the middle. seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, It should be grilled at a very high fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try temperature, so that a fine crust forms com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this From nature to the plate 2341100. Map L3 the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. dish depends on the cooking: the meat www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 must be brown on the outside but red, Da Burde 0804. Map L4 In the heart of the Lungarno, La Bottega del Buon Caffè offers a gastronomic experience based on local The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. This is the first vital rule: flavours, served in a pleasant setting where past and present merge. By Giulia Minero the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Marione Trattoria livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the a fiorentina must be eaten rare. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms value for money, the atmosphere has remained that the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 regional cuisine revisited in a countryside near Borgo San Pietro. In the interior of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini kgs, although bigger steaks are easily contemporary vein and accompanied by spaces, which also include a private dining room, in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured available. And here is another sore point. Tuscan wines; a pleasant setting, where or at the tables outdoors, guests can enjoy the Piedmontese wines but also French, including some meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go A fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina classical elements and vaults with exposed brick tasting menu: ‘Chef’s Choice’ of 6 or 8 courses at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map because there is usually a long queue of people by weight. An average price to be sure of are mixed with modern touches and the use of or vegetarian menu matched up with La Bottega’s, waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria- getting the real thing is around 50 euros IO Osteria Personale locally sourced products; these are just some of including some of the best regional varieties, or marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 a kilo. In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still the ingredients that make La Bottega del Buon else opt for à la carte proposals including “pigeon, conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, Opera WITH. The traditional accompaniment is Caffèan experience involving all five senses. The butter and thyme cappelletti”, “lamb from Borgo, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few usually cannellini beans, washed down philosophy is simple: to offer an authentic cuisine, nettles, scorzonera, pear and borretane onions” modern tavern that has a preference for the products steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera with a glass of Chianti. with dishes selected respecting the seasonality of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative and fish-based dishes such as “scallops with leek, restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and WHERE. Here are four restaurants where of the ingredients. Under the guidance of chef apple and flowers from Borgo” or “skate way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. Erez Ohayon, this Michelin-star restaurant in and white turnip”. In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and background of the most important operas, you can illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. the shade of the medieval tower of San Niccolò seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) delights the palate, for lunch or dinner, with >> La Bottega del Buon Caffè Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ proposals of meat or fish from the local territory, Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; ristorante-perseus-firenze). La Ménagère closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso accompanied and embellished by vegetables, T: 055 5535677. Map I6 A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, (C.Z.) Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 fruit and aromatic herbs from its garden in the www.borgointhecity.com combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

34 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING

Osteria Badalì cuisine (although you can still request a private room Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the Tuscan food Michelin-starred restaurants of the past, all about long cooking times and ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: found on the second-hand book stalls and based 055 214179. Map D3 above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and across Buca Poldo as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with Touch Bistrò Toscano dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for of the hotelier institute have made their dream a other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that bread using flour from ancient grains. of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Ora d’Aria the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, Map F4 Via dei Georgofili 11/r ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni T: 055 20016 9 but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic www.oradariaristorante.com Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when Tuscani 3 (I) Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and venue and countless notables from Florence and impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as Pappa col pomodoro Winter Garden by Caino home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from recipes but tending towards a more creative Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of CANTUCCI. The finger-shaped almond Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon biscuits are made by slicing up a long cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or roll of baked dough while still hot. In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts 285356. Map F4 Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F The dough is made with flour, sugar, restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French eggs, butter and raw almonds. Tuscans Zeb Fiaschetteria Nuvoli labels and a highly select menu of beers. normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a

Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory fortified local wine called Vin Santo. the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Winter Garden by Caino Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the CIBREO. Dish for strong stomachs, c/o Hotel Saint Regis dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it Cibreo is a typical main course of Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants Piazza Ognissanti, 1 balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, T: 055 27163770 Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken www.borgosanjacopo.com it comes from the winning combination of prime www.wintergardenbycaino.com chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the and onion. with a special focus on small local producers. €€. porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. LAMPREDOTTO. This is Florentine San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an Caino has come about from the creative liaison street food par excellence. It’s a cow’s case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized 2342864. Map H6 T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or labels, along with others that are little known but Gentian Shehi. Their menu brings the territory’s cooked in a herb broth and most Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative CANTINE PIZZA washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century way, with elements from every part of the globe, commonly served in a panino soaked Antica Mescita San Niccolò Pizza Man labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong in the broth or topped with the local Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan based one is unmissable) or à la carte. delight for the senses. stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more parsley-based green sauce. crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional PAPPA COL POMODORO. Soup made Bottega del Buon Caffè Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe www.ilpalagioristorante.it and the taste buds. also reflects the season and the local territory, with €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. Zero food miles products gathered from the organic Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated salt and pepper. dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, T: 055 2480200. Map H4 vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the environment with tables both indoors and bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just RIBOLLITA. Soup made of stale bread, Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, Pizzaiuolo (Il) kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega proposal that looks to the Italian and regional 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is cannellini). ‘Ribollita’ - literally means del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the boiled several times - derives from the the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and Buca Lapi pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality fact that in the old days peasants used to proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. make a large pot and serve it, heated up, ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts over a number of days, each time tastier include gems such as amberjack served in three ways venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via than before. (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 SCHIACCIATA. In Florence you’ll find this with pigeon, butter and thyme. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan simple focaccia baked in a wood oven labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita Santarpia and dressed with olive oil and salt at any Enoteca Pinchiorri or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven Via Ghibellina, 87 La Leggenda dei Frati in Villa Bardini (Costa San del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising baker’s, but of course everyone has their SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

T: 055 242757 Giorgio). Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 MARCO PASQUINI flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp enotecapinchiorri.it www.laleggendadeifrati.it Buca Mario Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft and salty, or made with ancient grains. How do you manage to be honoured with Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with beers or wines from small producers. €.

PHOTO © (C.Z.) Enoteca Pinchiorri famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei PHOTO © www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine T: 055245829. Map L3

36 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 37 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Il Conventino a Marignolle Il Palagio vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle Il Palagio items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: Hostaria Bibendum c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 classic Tuscan dishes. www.ilpalagioristorante.it Tradition, innovation and creativity: Golden Restaurant A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Se•Sto on Arno Where® highlights some culinary c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 destinations to whet your appetite www.goldentowerhotel.it tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica www.westinflorence.com in several top hotels in Florence. The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine Local flavours and seasonal products for a Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden Borgo San Jacopo and fittings. and Trattoria al fresco. enclosed by sweeping picture windows that c/o Hotel Lungarno make the most of the unique position and Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 Il Giardino Restaurant Irene breathtaking view over the city. www.borgosanjacopo.com c/o Sina Villa Medici c/o Hotel Savoy La Loggia On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 Villa La Vedetta Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant www.sinahotels.com www.roccofortehotels.com c/o Villa La Vedetta is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle Le Bistrot Ristorante La Chiostrina Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th- building with an extraordinary collection of art c/o Villa Cora c/o Bernini Palace www.villalavedettahotel.com fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef century palace, recently renovated and restored to works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 Just moments away from the Piazzale Claudio Mengoni, accompanied by collector its former splendour. The restaurant, with its winter Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef www.villacora.it hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking wines from a cantina of 900 labels. garden which can be opened during the summer Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park One of the most elegant and sophisticated view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant months, has been studied in every detail with an new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused Capriccio Restaurant exclusive design. Seasonality and territoriality are and seasonal products. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid the basis for Il Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 chef Luigi Incrocci. The menu presents interesting J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian www.montebellosplendid.com creations of the best Italian and international c/o JK Place Firenze Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also options too. The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, tradition, revisited in a modern mood. The Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part offers international dishes. out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine is to www.jkplace.com locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant Winter Garden by Caino class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with Ristorante La Loggia c/o The Saint Regis Florence products and absolute freshness for a couple’s has 60 wine labels. local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 candlelight dinner or a special event. farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining moves poolside to the winter garden. Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Hostaria Bibendum room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the www.belmond.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Flora & Fauno c/o Helvetia & Bristol terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Relais Le Jardin This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 c/o Hotel Regency visit just for its magnificent position looking over restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.starhotelscollezione.com La Cucina del Salviatino Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria www.hotelvillesullarno.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century c/o Il Salviatino www.regency-hotel.com Italian dishes. Piccini and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their Facing the river and immersed in the lovely palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge menu shines an innovative spotlight on the garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno a penchant for local producers and ingredients. www.salviatino.com mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi links to the local territory and the seasons, with a dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze and lampredotto to more refined proposals in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- prevalence of meat courses, though there is no such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection eyes and palate, in particular their original take times sticking to tradition. Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. food miles. highest quality. of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from on tiramisù.

38 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who artists of the period participated in its creation (the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi- Poggi”. Map I7 coloured marble façade dates back to the 19th century. the end of the 16th century, however, when it became Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and San Miniato al Monte city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the Abbey to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto situated at one of the highest panoramic points in 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, Battistero Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between however, for those with problems walking). The outside Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 of the church is decorated with green and white Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli building that completes the considerably striking 12th-century mosaic decorates the central part of the The symbol of wealth and power, the building was appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but façade. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte th inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. It is Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th Mercato Centrale outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the The building is located on the left bank of the river, entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the most Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, important examples of Italian-style gardens in the by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is world and are considered a genuine open-air museum. the historic covered market there has been a complex reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity Currently they are the site of four different museums: containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery activities and street food options, and this has now are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www. and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art become a point of reference for informal but good ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo- www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6 Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. Map F1 Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation DE LUNA_PROEDI MEDIA of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del

PHOTO © Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. Polyhedra in the city for Leonardo it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 Da Vinci’s studies on the forms and processes of the plant world are at the centre of a new exhibition Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of exploring the connections between art, science and nature. By Elena Peverata civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, huge six-metre-high dodecahedron botanical studies with the task of closing the the square has been gradually enhanced over the with a mulberry tree inside it certainly year of the celebrations of the great man’s life. centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale does not go unnoticed: the installation In the interweaving of original sheets – three A della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle in Piazza della Signoria – like the other equally precious sheets in Leonardo’s own hand Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square enormous polyhedra that have appeared at coming from the Codex Atlanticus conserved are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues various points in the city – anticipates and at the Biblioteca Ambrosiana in Milan are of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties important sculptural cycles in the world. The most presents the contents of the exhibition La present – natural elements and interactive famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo PItti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno botanica di Leonardo. Per una nuova scienza tra installations, the exhibition offers the display in its original position is a copy, whereas the district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of Arte e Natura. The dodecahedron, a symbol of opportunity to explore an important terrain original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the the universe for the Greeks, and the mulberry of investigation by the Italian genius. Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious tree (one of the plants most loved by Leonardo), Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; represent the mystery of the connection >> La botanica di Leonardo. Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest between all things that fascinated Leonardo. Per una nuova scienza tra Arte e Natura of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one Perfect symbols, therefore, for the exhibition 13 September – 15 December important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its that is inaugurated on 13 September at the Museo di Santa Maria Novella. imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today. Museum of Santa Maria Novella: a major Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 18 its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6 project devoted to Leonardo’s natural and www.labotanicadileonardo.it make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. www.

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the convents themselves, which were abolished in comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by Santa Croce the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Map G4 Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the headquarters for Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and his company and his workshop – and in its rooms and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, musical instruments of the courts of the Medici and Museo di Santa Maria Novella it displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober th Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. the 13 -century Dominican Basilica and the Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo.com/museo. appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via monumental cloisters. The church contains Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, 3562-846/466. Map E4 masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, experienced that profound artistic agitation that has Museo degli Innocenti the Tornabuoni Chapel by Ghirlandaio and his Museo Stefano Bardini been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale workshop and the Strozzi Chapel by Filippino A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres degli Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www. in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. his private collection to Florence, where it was santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 it continues its function as the “Institute of the Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket price: €7.50. displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building that 2466105. Map H4 Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. items there, including sculptures, paintings and Santa Maria Novella in its Gallery hosts precious artworks by Sandro T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3 objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di the 18th century, with a major presence of works Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca Museo Giardini di Boboli from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Open reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Full ticket price €6. dates back to the end of the 13th century but work of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai, on it continued for centuries, so the church, with • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on beautiful panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. were first responsible for designing their layout, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427.Map G6 its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a the Firenzecard circuit www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima creating the model of the Italian-style harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance • Priority access to museums without needing to book Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1 garden that was to become an example Orsanmichele styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts for many European courts. Populated A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil • 72 hours available exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure by ancient and Renaissance statues, and religious functions are combined. Built as a Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio www.firenzecard.it An elegant collection of works made of semi- adorned with grottos - including the granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - precious stones and multi-coloured marble and famous Buontalenti Grotto - and large for Christian worship. On the ground floor the piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, fountains, such as those of Neptune and Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Map D2-E2 often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the instruments, plus an the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air Orcagna. The originals of the numerous sculptures 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present extensive collection museum. The terraced area includes the (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th Santo Spirito print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, of stone samples. The Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and and 16th centuries) that adorned the niches outside Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. the café and the museum shop, which looks out works are displayed in the Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre on the four sides of the imposing stone cube are Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, chronological order from of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the point of reference of the Augustinian order. The 2937911. Map F2 performances, contemporary art installations and the early 17th century to the Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view church has given its name to the entire surrounding theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am- Museum. Closed first and last of Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical music concerts neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located Cappella Brancacci holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum 2pm. Closed on Sundays and Monday of the month. Full ticket are held here. Church (ground floor): open daily “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. A The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza holidays. price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 10am-4.50pm. Free entry. www.bargellomusei. jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 www.opificiodellepietredure. 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6 beniculturali.it/musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www. house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is it. Via degli Alfani, 78. della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4 basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle Forte di Belvedere T: 055 218709. Map H1 Museo Nazionale del Bargello 210030. Map D5 of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ This imposing building, built Santa Maria del Fiore and Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti Museo di Palazzo Vecchio between the 13th and 14th centuries The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria del San Lorenzo they were left unfinished and were eventually to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. For over seven centuries Palazzo as the seat of the Podestà and Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the world, Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa completed by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and The fort currently hosts top-level events and della Signoria, or Palazzo Vecchio, the Council of Justice, was a lowly are a single large open-air museum, a unique Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of 1482. You are advised to book (T: 055 2768224- exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion of has been the symbol of the city’s civil prison between 1574 and 1858. The combination of art, faith and history located in Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by 8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. www. power, and today it is still the seat of Museum conserves a highly important the city’s main square, the religious, historical and Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri €6; Sat-Sun- museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via San Leonardo, the Municipal Council collection of Renaissance sculptures, artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore 1. Map F7 of Florence. Built in with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. 1299, over time it has della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with is the result of the last major reconstruction work fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224-558- Galleria degli Uffizi undergone numerous Cellini and Giambologna, and prestigious the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo that took place in the 15th century at the wishes 2382195. Map C5 The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and enlargement and collections of “lesser arts”. Open dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single of the Medici and under the direction of the great second floors of the large building erected transformation projects. daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade Cappelle Medicee between 1560 and 1580 based on a project Along its labyrinthine ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei. with prior booking necessary for the Dome. was intended to receive a rich marble decoration Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous routes are rooms and beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. Via www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately museum, but their history is closely associated museums in the world on account of its private environments del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures sumptuously decorated by G4 also embellished by sculptures by Donatello of rare they are part. The museum consists of the New and paintings. The collections of paintings from some of the most famous Villa Bardini and Gardens expressive intensity. www.operamedicealaurenziana. Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a artists of the Florentine Museo Salvatore Ferragamo The most beautiful view of Florence earned it org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel number of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Renaissance, with period This is a museum devoted to the history the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a 214042. Map F2 of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built Botticelli, from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are furnishings and exceptional of the Ferragamo company, to the life place rich in history, art and culture, has become using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where also important collections by German, Dutch and masterpieces. Open daily, 9am- of its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary MUSEUMS & the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and 11pm; Thursdays throughout the and to his creations. Every year exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum EXHIBITION SITES buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which contains Rubens. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on year: 9am-2pm. Museum full ticket it organises exhibitions that (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder. Open Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €20. www.uffizi. price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. investigate the relationship realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5 between fashion and art. The (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket price: museum is situated in Palazzo being restructured). In addition, there is also a Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze San Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ Michelin-starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. dei Frati (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four the presence of a number of sculptures by by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but THE RAPE OF THE SABINE WOMEN the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry 282984. Map F2 The complex and magnificent sculptural group conserved in the Loggia dei Lanzi, a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun above the famous David, transported here from is gained by ascending the monumental staircase 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by in Piazza della Signoria, is the original of the marble masterpiece by Giambologna (1583). designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo €8. Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the In the Academia Gallery, on the other hand, it is possible to admire the life-size plaster Ammannati in 1559. The Library conserves approx. the Porcelain Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa private architecture of the Renaissance and a adjacent premises are works coming from the 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, preparatory model for it, executed by the artist himself. San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. dynamic cultural centre that hosts international Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and Map G6-G

42 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s Can be used on buses, trams or trains. purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, ticket from 10pm to 3am). A further step in the digital Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he NEW AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) transformation of Florence’s public transport: 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on have them book for you at your hotel). You should travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains early bird then that could give you a significant travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).

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VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M PA G N I VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della CESARE Orti del Parnaso Divina Provvidenza MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

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5 STARS Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Off Map Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 Map G4 • Map H2 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 Torre Guelfa – Borgo SS. Apostoli, 8 • Map F4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 FH55 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 UNAHOTELS Vittoria Firenze – Via Pisana, 59 • Off Map Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 • Off Map Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 • Map F3 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 Map E4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map • Map C3 NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5 Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • • Off Map Off Map

Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 FLORENCE CITY GUIDE

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