OVERLOOKING a WORK of ART Tuscany Portraits on Show at Forte Di Belvedere

FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

OCTOBER 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

AUTUMN TIPS ON LUXURY SHOPPING, DINING AND SIGHTSEEING

HOW TO ENJOY YOUR WINE TASTING IN ITALY

OVERLOOKING A WORK OF ART Tuscany portraits on show at Forte di Belvedere

V A SI E S T E S E

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SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A 18 SHOPPING

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tasting experiences. NI ContentsVIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE V I A G . B A R B E R A OCTOBER 2020 TERZOLLE A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA ACCIO INI V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA ACCIO T PIAZZA MUGNONE A VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA AR OCC B R O N OPP GIAMPIETRO E V I A B E Z Z E C ROT M DLEI A I V I I B VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI Parrocchia Immacolata T OFF V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi NN V V I A L IES V. F. C I A VIA GAETANO M VA VIA SAN DONATO V D I V I I A T V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLEIO QUERCE I O S T AUTUMN TIPS ON Parco Liceo A T R N Leonardo da Vinci A C . R E O C O LUXURY SHOPPING, V. O. DA PORDENONE VI N IA G T O V DINING AND SIGHTSEEING VIA CIRCONDARIA A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I M PA G N I Chiesa della B.V. M G LARGO ILANE Madre della

40U A S T I SIGHTSEEINGCESARE Divina Provvidenza ANTON Orti del Parnaso CO HOW TO ENJOY YOUR V IA M A R A G L IA N O SI CANTÙ WINE TASTING IN ITALY 3 TOP IN TOWNMUGNONE 20 TOP BRANDS IA V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO V

E NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID NAINI PIAZZA S I V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI E O BO LUDOVICO ANTONIO V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa & MUSEUMS I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I ENT A A N D O M E N I MURATORI A S Preziosissimo VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Enjoy the city, starting from Sangue The best fashion designers I A MUGNONE U G I A V I Giardino ALCANTI V VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI OLOGN V I A F Stazione Firenze Statuto V PIAZZA V. dell'Orticoltura V VIA FRANCESC G. B Villa il VIALE FRANCESCO REDI INI PIAZZUOL TOMMASO I PIAZZA A Ventaglio A VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C I AL ALVA EDISON V. VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA V DELLE CURE I. XI EL One of the locations O I L NIEVO UIDO CA FE Chiesa della Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT VIA D

RFA NA CV I its main landmark attractions. in Florence for your high-end C B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI PIAZZA VIA VNES AIRN EI V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I N I V I D I ONACCI GIACOMO OR AI A L I PIAZZA I A A VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E symbolising the city, O FIB VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI V IA M A R A G L IA N O E SC V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U . ARD DA ER LO VX I TO VIA M L G shopping.VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI . PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U SCA I VIA FILIPPO PACINI VIA ANTONIO COCC COR I SE V. A V GALILEO S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O M A T MUGNONE N FERRARIS VIA DEI CA O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI OVERLOOKING A LEON G GO I V the BaptisteryU TO of San I R Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H Sacro Cuore V. G. B. AMICI I I M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA VIA ENRICO PETRELLA al Romito V AI HI LARGO A A WORK OF ART VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI V T OI V. MAD RA PONTE ROSSO C A I V. A. NICOLODI D V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze Tuscany portraits WHAT TO DO V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI 8 E V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I ELLI C . Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena A G OI R D A N O CIN VIA A. BERTANI L on show at AL N D VIA G. BAND VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA GiovanniPIAZZALE DELLA is one of V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE Forte di Belvedere V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI A PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of art RE DI SAN EOL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O FASHIONA OUTLETS MARTIRI N 28 P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S I A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS VIA G the oldest places of V AI M SS. Gervasio e Protasio GIOVANNI RDO VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA Giardino FILIPP V AI A S FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA X A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I exhibitions, music and spectacular Several of the best shopping V. G. MARCONI IR URNO O U NT V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO worship inT Florence. D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOLV Chiesa San Jacopino L A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CA I A 'A L S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N A U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA The “Bellezza oltre il limite” installations. destinations not far from Florence, AC A O VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R I S A A Marte I E exhibition at Forte di V I A C A V O V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa PIAZZA V VIAPIO FEDI PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E G VIA DE U Nostra Signora SO L D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI L Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI offering discounts year-round. O 56 ESSENTIALS LE VIA ROSOLI E P P E S I R Franchi MONTIGNANO Belvedere, until 31 October RUO M O F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE L L A A VIA DEI SETTE SANTI VIA DELLA FORTEZZA EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G (see page 10). C BAMBINE E BAMBINI PIAZZA R Cimitero I O DIInformation BESLAN and tips VIA PIE V AI M INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di O della Misericordia DISCOVERINGPasserella dell'Isolotto B B AI VIA D 12 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI VIA MASSA A ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI R V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIA SAN GALLO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE to experienceIA the O Giardino A VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A di Valfonda N N E L L I P PONTE VECCHIO TOP HOTEL RESTAURANTS ONTANELLI LEOPOLDA 34 A D N O F L A V Teatro dell’Opera EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO A Z N E A F A VIA GIAMBOLOGNA A Convento T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA RA F VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI Firenze Fiera San Giuliano VIA GINO CAPP P O Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO best that Florence O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA N I PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO One of the undisputed symbols Where® highlights some culinary L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I A LARGO L G E V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO V V AI M Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I hasV to offer. AL GIGNORO B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A of Florence and one of the Amost R N O destinations to whet your appetite S A C C OI San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U photographed sites in the world. in several top hotels.V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella I V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O MAP PAGES’ 46-47SO ERVI Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ARI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. 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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE EDITORIAL WELCOME TO ITALY YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® [ SIGHTSEEING] ® MORE AT PAGE 40 whereMAGAZINE Florence www.whereitalia.com/florence MAP PAGES We’ve been here for centuries. Top in town 46-47 We’re waiting for you. PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. Now, we’re ready to show you the most T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 1 6 beautiful country in the world. [email protected] www.whereitalia.com/florence The recent pandemic has severely affected one PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF of the linchpins of the global economy – the Andrea Jarach Andrea Jarach tourism industry. The closing of borders and drop [email protected] Publisher MANAGING EDITOR in available revenue at the time of writing this Where® Alessandra Finzi editorial could be very depressing, but remember [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting Congressi, famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world. ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - 6 3 signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users. COO Pierfrancesco Coreno Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country [email protected] boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni [email protected] a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely ADMINISTRATION appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best Katia Greto [email protected] equipped in the world. PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are Paola Grilli

[email protected] SHUTTERSTOCK only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was Marta Mailhac a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, [email protected] PHOTOS © CUSTOMER SERVICES settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in Cristina Garbini [email protected] the creation of Italy. DUOMO AND CUPOLA CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous in Florence was the largest Christian church Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main the square are the Fountain of Neptune PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) in the world. Today the religious building, the components of the complex of Santa and a series of statues of Renaissance Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and origin, representing one of the most you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of green marble, the majestic square-based important sculptural cycles in the world. you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for in the next issue. dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can The most famous is certainly Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s be visited by climbing no less than 414 Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, stairs up to the top, from where you can whereas the original is conserved in the the Renaissance… is a symbol known all over the world. 1 enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS 3 WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE Dome. Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS BATTISTERO GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance! The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA One of the most famous museums in the characterised by an octagonal plan, lined AND PALAZZO VECCHIO world on account of its extraordinary The Publisher Where® magazine and the where® with a dome of eight segments, covered by This is the central square of Florence, the collections of ancient sculptures and logo are registered a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated seat of civil power and social heart of the paintings (from the Middle Ages to the MVP trademarks of Morris Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. with white marble from Carrara and green city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio modern age). The Gallery occupies the first >> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, marble from Prato, characteristics of the (the seat of the Municipal Council of and second floors of the large building MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS Florentine architecture of the Romanesque Florence), the splendid Loggia della erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a MVP EXECUTIVE stores and outlets stay tuned on www.whereitalia.com 2 5 CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III period. Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, project by Giorgio Vasari PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV

2 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 3 [ SIGHTSEEING]

SEE MAP Top in Town PAGE 46

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PONTE VECCHIO then stretches along the Arno, over the PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, Giotto painted some of his great SANTO SPIRITO The official date of foundation of the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo This is the most famous and appreciated which is unusual and of great beauty, masterpieces here and the French writer A point of reference of the Augustinian current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great panoramic point in Florence, with its views boasts one of the city’s best conserved Stendhal experienced that profound order. The church has given its name to the the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On seen all over the world in million of original floors. 10 artistic agitation that has been known entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ display along the Corridor are over 1000 postcards and reproductions. The design of since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance shops, who used the river to dispose of paintings. 7 the square dates back to 1869, when MERCATO CENTRALE The basilica contains the monumental architecture, the church was the last great their waste in a hurry. At the end of the Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to Built at the end of the 19th century, the sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14 16th century, however, when it became PALAZZO PITTI the city’s most famous artist, the square has Central Market is a building of a certain Machiavelli. 12 the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s architectural merit. The project was SAN LORENZO and jewellers started to arrive, and they The symbol of wealth and power, the most famous sculptures. 9 entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the SANTA MARIA NOVELLA One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, have been there uninterruptedly to this building was inhabited by the Medici, then architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele A point of reference of the Dominican founded, according to the tradition, by day. 6 by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the SAN MINIATO AL MONTE in Milan, who was inspired by order, the church, with its elegant façade Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, CORRIDOIO VASARIANO original architecture dates back to the 15th medieval religious building situated at one reference for informal but good quality synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. however, is the result of the last major The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first of the highest panoramic points in cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 It hosts exceptional works of art by reconstruction work that took place in the connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at Florence. The most spectacular access is Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino 15th century at the wishes of the Medici Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens gained via the monumental flight of steps. SANTA CROCE Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo and under the direction of the great entrance to which is at the beginning of are one of the most important examples of The outside of the church is decorated with One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a Uccello. 13 architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15 the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 green and white marble, typical of point of reference of the Franciscan order.

4 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK PIAZZA SANTA CROCE

Eternal fascination

The large Piazza Santa Croce is one of the main squares of the historic centre of Florence and over time it has become one of the nerve centres of Florentine cultural and commercial life. It has long been the theatre for the city’s festivals, meetings and celebrations, and in the 15th century it hosted jousts and tournaments on horseback.

Facing onto it are the splendid Basilica of Santa Croce and a number of prestigious residences, including Palazzo Cocchi Serristori and Palazzo dell’Antella.

Completed in 1320, the Franciscan church quickly became the sacred place that noble and illustrious Florentines yearned to have as their final resting place: Dante Alighieri, Galileo Galilei, Michelangelo Buonarroti, Niccolò Macchiavelli, Ugo Foscolo and Vittorio Alfieri, to mention just a few.

Don’t miss a visit to the Bell Tower, the Sacristy with the famous Crucifix of Cimabue and the Medici Chapel, the Cloisters, the Pazzi Chapel, the Museum and the Basement (www.santacroceopera.it).

Since the end of the 15th century, the matches of Calcio Storico Fiorentino have been held in the square and a marble circle has been placed on both Palazzo dell’Antella and the building opposite to indicate the half-way line of the pitch.

On 14 May 1865, on the occasion of the fifth centenary of poet Dante Alighieri’s birth, a monument dedicated to him was positioned in the centre of the square, but the monument has been removed and moved to its current position on the parvis of the church to enable the Calcio in Costume matches to take place. TRUBA7113 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

6 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

Discover UNTIL 13 NOVEMBER ► 100 METAL WOLFES & Enjoy INVADE THE CITY The monumental installation by chinese artist Liu Whether it’s discovering the events Ruowang occupies two prestigious spaces, Piazza Pitti and Piazza Santissima Annunziata, and wants celebrating Italian traditions or visiting to create connection and contrast with the idea of an exhibition, Where® brings you harmony typical of 15th century Humanism. The this month’s unmissable dates. wolves indeed face two emblematic buildings of the Renaissance, Palazzo Pitti and the Spedale degli Innocenti, where the great Filippo Brunelleschi was able to show his conception of space, proportions and architectural rhythm. The threatening pack of UNTIL 1 NOVEMBER wolves shaped by Liu Ruowang - made up of TOMÁS SARACENO 100 iron castings, each weighing 280 kg - is an allegory of nature’s response to the ravages and AT PALAZZO STROZZI predatory behavior of man towards environment. Cobwebs as works of art, the cosmos as geometries, And it is, at the same time, a reflection on the vibrations and sounds: Tomás Saraceno, a visionary values of civilization, on the great uncertainty artist whose creative research combines art, natural in which we live today and on the actual risks of and social sciences, invites you to change your an irreversible annihilation of the current world, perspective on reality and connect with non- apparently devoted to self-destruction. human elements such as dust, insects or plants, www.uffizi.it the protagonists of his installations. At Palazzo Strozzi, “Aria” offers an itinerary of immersive works between the courtyard and the main floor invites you to rethink and overturn the anthropocentric viewpoint: from man at the centre of the world of the Renaissance to man as part of a complex universe in which to seek a new harmony. www.palazzostrozzi.org © ELA BIALKOWSKA, OKNO STUDIO

PH 4-7-10-13 OCTOBER ◄ GIUSEPPE VERDI’S CHORAL MUSIC When Giuseppe Verdi met Bartolomeo Merelli, an impresario at the Teatro alla Scala, he had no intention of composing a new opera: he was devastated by the death of his son and wife and was convinced that he was a terrible musician due to the fiasco of his first opera, Oberto conte di San Bonifacio. Merelli manages to slip the libretto for a new opera, the Nabuccodonosor, which had been refused by Carl Otto Nicolai, into the pocket of his topcoat. On arriving home, Verdi threw away the libretto in rage, meaning to destroy it, but when it fell open on “Va’ pensiero”, it was the inspiration that he was looking for. www.maggiofiorentino.com

8 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 9 © ALESSANDRO MOGGI PH WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

UNTIL 21 DECEMBER ESSENTIAL MARBLE SHAPES Museo Stefano Bardini presents the show “Kevin Francis Gray” dedicated to the artist of Irish descent. The deep bond that exists between the artist and the Tuscan territory is demonstrated by the longstanding collaboration between the artist and the marble processing studios in Pietrasanta. However, for the first time the artist exhibits his works in Florence, in search for a direct dialogue with the great masters of the past. In the halls of the Museum, we find more than ten pieces realized with different kinds of marble: statuario, Carrara, bardiglio, marquina and an artwork in bronze. The artist’s devotion towards the art of the past is testified not only by the materials he employs, but also by that love for the ephemeral, for classic poses and for the subjects almost magically wrapped in a timeless veil. www.musefirenze.it

UNTIL 31 OCTOBER THE SPECTACLE OF TUSCANY The terraced spaces of Forte di Belvedere, overlooking Florence, play host to the spectacular photographic exhibition by Massimo Sestini entitled “Bellezza oltre il limite” (Beauty Without End). Twenty giant images present a Tuscany portrayed from an unprecedented perspective: the photographs were in fact taken at a height of 2,000 feet, but with lenses that made it possible to move so close to the scene depicted as to frame it in a totally new and original way. Landscapes that seem to be paintings, with brushstrokes of different colours or composed of overlapping fabrics: here the photograph is transformed into a work of art. www.musefirenze.it KEVIN FRANCIS GRAY, BUST OF CÁER (2018). CARRARA MARBLE.

10 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING

considering it a source of great pride, that sometimes you need only turn into an Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening unknown alley to get away from the bustling together sporting rowers, is a point of up new larger, more panoramic windows for crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll. reference for the activities that take place on Discovering Ponte Vecchio his benefit. One rather romanticised version the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the UNDER THE BRIDGE offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, memory of such beauty, would decide to Finally, you should know that there is also lunches and dinners. save the bridge from the terrible bombing life under the bridge: the historic Società campaigns of 1944. Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction seems to prove that this merit cannot be ascribed to the German dictator.

LUXURY SHOPPING For more than four hundred years, Ponte Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by artisans creating admirable gold and silver objects. Still today, this remains the commercial vocation of the neighbourhood, which is nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however, Vasari Corridor

It is one of the undisputed

symbols of Florence and, irst of all, it must be said that protruding over the river. as such, is one of the most Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Then, grafted onto the high part of the photographed sites in the Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic first to identify a ford in the passageway that was built at the wishes world. Here are some details so Arno were the Etruscans. of Cosimo de’ Medici in 1565 to connect you can get to know it better. The Roman founders of the the administrative buildings to his private Fvillage of “Florentia” built a wood and stone residence, without exposing the sovereign to bridge there, the forerunner of the current any danger. one, which dates back to around 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations A UNIQUE HISTORY and modifications, this passage across the The change of identity of the zone during Arno has remained in its place, actively the Renaissance is due precisely to the participating in the history of the city. Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE had a preference for the bridge on account The bridge is characterised by a solution of the ease with which they could throw with lowered arches, never previously their waste into the river, were evicted en seen, which makes it particularly stable bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign and its profile unmistakable. From the very goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which beginning, it was understood to be a natural were more appropriate for his gaze (and continuation of the road, and so it has his nose), and they have continued their shops and porticos along both sides facing presence there ever since for the pleasure SHUTTERSTOCK.COM towards the centre, each with a single shop of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has window closed by strong wooden doors, been an assiduous witness – and sometimes

and often with a picturesque backroom a protagonist – of the history of the city: PHOTOS ©

12 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

Speri

climate, offers ideal conditions for growing “Wine gives courage and makes men the autochthonous grapes named Corvina more apt for passion.” Veronese, Corvinone and Rondinella Ovidio (43 b.C.-17 a.D.) from which it is made. After harvesting, the grapes gathered between September and October are placed in drying rooms liquorice, cloves), balsamic (resin, clay, pine), for at least three months. The ancient art vegetal (earth, brushwood) and many other of raisining allows the loss of around half notes are presented to the nose. Acidity is less the weight of the grapes, thanks to the evident to the palate and the wines prove to evaporation of the water in the berries, be more balanced and harmonious. creating a concentration of sugars and On the pages that follow you will find my aromas. When raisining is completed, TOP 8, not only of the wines of the two the grapes are pressed and vinified. Then DOCGs presented, but also those by other ageing takes place in large or small casts producers who have succeeded in obtaining for a variable period – depending on the excellent wines in this style. Imagine drinking wine you wish to obtain – (four years for the one of these wines on a wet, grey, cold day. “Reserve” version). Absolutely perfect! Now we move to Lombardy, specifically to the Valtellina, a zone famous for its “heroic viticulture” and for the most renowned Vino Nobile among the wines of the Valtellina, Sforzato della Valtellina (or “Sfursat”, as it is called in the local dialect). The name derives precisely from the practice of “forcing”, namely prolonging the maturation of the grape. This wine boasts a very long history and was established as a DOCG in 2003. In this case too, it is the unique properties of the territory – with its mild climate, sunny due to its south exposure, with the Alps protecting it from Zyme winds and damp – that have made it so successful. Obtained from a selection of the best pure nebbiolo grapes, Sforzato The “red” that warms ed, firm, dry”, that’s the enjoys an average raisining period of CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Autumn has finally arrived! open up a good bottle of wine produced from the 110 days. After vinification it must have a north to the south with minimum alcohol level of 14% and undergo Certified Wine Expert and Owner The temperatures are red wine! But what kind of autochthonous grapes, at least 24 months of ageing in wood casks. of Milano Wine Affair Board member dropping, a few days of red? Full-bodied, elegant, applying various methods As regards the organoleptic profile of these of FISAR Milan Delegation the soul of raisining, which warms reds, this obviously depends on the wine Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption rain, mist and fog create a smooth… produced with the heart and soul. concerned, based on the blend of varieties, for many years now. With a passion for wine special atmosphere with raisined grapes, aged in “RLet’s begin with Amarone della Valpolicella, raisining method applied, duration, climate in her blood, she has found her vocation their diffused light, evenings wooden casks, a red that a wine that was established as a DOC in 1968 and ageing … in general, however, all have a in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano indoors are growing longer caresses the palate like a soft, and as a DOCG in 2010. Our Amarone is a very extensive and complex organoleptic Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, Venetian wine, born in the Valpolicella, a zone profile in common and boast a very long approaching both companies and visitors to and the moment has finally warm velvet scarf. with a particular vocation for wine-growing. ageing potential. These are structured Milan, creating multisensory experiences in arrived for wine lovers to BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Its “classic” area of production, in the province wines, rich in alcohol and full-bodied. Fruity the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, of Verona, with its mild and moderately rainy (dried or preserved in spirits), spicy (pepper, teambuilding, entertainment and travel

14 WHERE MILANFLORENCE I JUNE I OCTOBER 2020 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

TerreMarche di Serrapetrona – Robbione 2013 Serrapetrona DOC TOP 8 Vernaccia Nera 100%, raisined This selection includes exclusively 15% ABV Italian labels meriting significant www.terrediserrapetrona.it attention due to their quality and their typical expression of the territory. The choices made are the result of personal experience in the field, with LunariaAbruzzo (Cantina Orsogna) - Bucefalo rosso tastings and continuous research within Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 100%, the sphere of events devoted to wine. raisined on the vine 14.5%, organic and biodynamic wine www.lunaria.bio

Terre di Serrapetrona SperiVeneto - Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano 2015 Puglia Fay Amarone Classico della Valpolicella DOCG Agricole Vallone – Graticciaia 2015 Corvina Veronese and Corvinone 70%, Rondinella Speri Salento Rosso IGT 25%, Molinara 5%, raisined Negroamaro 100%, raisined 15% ABV 14.5% ABV www.speri.com www.agricolevallone.it

Zyme - Amarone della Valpolicella 2015 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella DOP Corvina 40%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella 15%, Oseleta 10%, Croatina 5%, raisined Do you like this subject? If you’re in 15.5% ABV Milan, would you like to get to know www.zyme.it Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine-tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area. FayLombardy - Ronco del Picchio 2015 Info and contacts [email protected] – Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG www.milanowineaffair.com Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca) 100%, raisined 15% ABV www.vinifay.it

Mamete Prevostini – Albareda 2015 Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG 15% ABV Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca) 100%, raisined www.mameteprevostini.com

TravagliniPiedmont – Il Sogno 2015 Nebbiolo 100%, raisined 15.5 ABV www.travaglinigattinara.it

Travaglini Mamete Prevostini

16 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 17 Graticciaia SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & Aspesi W The Guidelines M The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran H E O MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold R . C ACCESSORIES Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, E T R R A V E L E at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the elegant details and natural materials. His current coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). Angela Caputi Giuggiù collections are still based on the original “no frills”

The boutique offers an extraordinary selection philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their SHOPPING of clothing items for every type of woman. In outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. This directory, grouped by category, is a list of addition, hats, bags and other accessories from Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat establishments recommended by the editors all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. of Where magazine and includes regular and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the personally to combine with and complete her 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, most popular luxury brands are grouped under exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 the separate category “Top Brands”, which design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat be found on page 20. Several unusual shops, 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, Brunello Cucinelli stocking items and rarities for collectors or 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed aficionados in specific product categories, are up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in Anichini craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in the standard shopping sections. CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is where skilled artisan hands create elegant items Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the generally included in the price of goods. for newborns, children and youngsters using the production of high-quality cashmere knitwear best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible and today boasts top-level production with total TAX-FREE SHOPPING to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, and exported from the EU: before finalizing anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat defining itself as “a humanistic company”. a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. whether they are eligible for a tax refund. 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.

DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). From nature to cosmetics € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, a place where you can discover products for personal care with a Florentine spirit, finds its natural location in the convent of the same name. By Giulia Minero SIGHTSEEING Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, The new Dolce Vita of hence our decision to list them under a id you know that the oldest historical which has kept its original wooden furnishings >> Via della Scala, 16 separate category. The information provided pharmacy in Europe is in Florence? and stucco decorations intact, those wishing T: 055 216276. Map D2 on museums and monuments is verified as Valdichiana Village A pharmacy since 1381 and later an to immerse themselves in an experience of www.smnovella.com meticulously as possible. However, data such as New names, new logos and a new way of telling the story of the Villages. From this month D telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and on the Dolce Vita-themed autumn-winter campaign characterises all five Land of Fashion apothecary run by the Dominican monks of yesteryear can find ancient preparations, herbal the accessibility of sites are all subject to centres, including Valdichiana Outlet, which has changed its name to Valdichiana Village. Santa Maria Novella, of which it occupies the teas and herbalist products, typical specialties change, on a seasonal basis and also due to The communication underlines the exclusively Italian nature of the network. chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Bari, in and liqueurs alongside antique scientific restoration work, museum loans or changes 1848 the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di materials such as thermometers, mortars, of management. Ask your concierge The commercial offer is also new, thanks to numerous openings in recent months, showing signs of newfound liveliness after the period of forced closure. Among these: Santa Maria Novella abandoned its ancient measuring scales and scoops. On the other hand, ENTERTAINMENT Napapijri, the iconic Italian streetwear brand with a Finnish-sounding name and a vocation to become a perfumery and herbalist’s the Sala Verde (Green Room), which at one time Several venues offering food are included in shop where today products for personal care was a distillates laboratory, is the ideal place to this section. These are considered as meeting Norwegian flag as its logo. The perfect blend of outdoor clothing, innovative materials are prepared based on the use of precious discover unusual gifts such as perfume diffusers places rather than gourmet addresses and thus and a particular attention to style. Sunglass Hut, the ideal destination to find a meticulous explain our decision to list them here rather medicinal plants. Under a nineteenth-century for the home, wax products, accessories selection of the most sought-after brands of sunglasses, fashionable and quality. GS Sport, than under “Dining”. vault, embellished by frescos representing the and decorative items. Today, as in the past, all with the New Balance and Ciesse Piumini brands to further complete the autumn offer, four continents to symbolise the Pharmacy’s the products are made using medicinal herbs All details are correct at the time of going to and Docksteps, a footwear shop that proposes a vast range of models, such as deck shoes, press but several details can change: ask your worldwide renown, an abundance of perfumes, and essences cultivated in the Garden of Santa moccasins, ankle boots and comfortable multi-style sandals to ensure pleasant ease of concierge to double-check all information. soaps and cosmetics are to be found. Moving Maria Novella in the nearby Città di Castello and wear and reassuring value for money. www.valdichianavillage.it on to the Antica Spezieria (Old Apothecary), processed using age-old artisan techniques.

18 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 19 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands

ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. www.albertaferretti.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. c/o Spazio A. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 This “rockstud” metalized calfskin court shoe, Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. with matching studs, bears the unmistakable Map E3 T: 055 212995. Map E4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. signature of VALENTINO GARAVANI. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am- GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di 7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. 7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; T: 055 219041. Map E3 T: 055 287761. Map F3 Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Porta Rossa, 51/r. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. T: 055 287931. Map E4 Sun 11.30am-7pm. 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds: from BALENCIAGA— T: 055 2670157. Map E4 Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. the “D.Side” collection by DAMIANI, this necklace is www.balenciaga.com. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open T: 055 290284. Map F3 hand-made with the utmost care devoted to the details. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. Santa Trinita, 1/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 75927010. Map F4 MISSONI—www.misson.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, T: 055 9040090. Map E4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. Map E3 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. BOGGI MILANO— Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. www.boggi.com. DIOR— www.dior.com. Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. T: 055 210856. Map F3 Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 T: 055 2608931. Map F3 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. 7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it MONCLER—www.moncler.com. T: 055 219179. Map E3 T: 055 216227. Map F3 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. BORSALINO— TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Map E3 www.borsalino.com. 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. T: 055 218275. Map F4 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. T: 055 292050. Map E3 BOTTEGA VENETA— Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. Map E4 www.bottegaveneta.com. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. Sun 2pm-7pm. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. T: 055 284735. Map E3 Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 288539. Map E3 T: 055 264254. Map E3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— PRADA—www. prada.com. www.brunellocucinelli.com. ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Made from soft, patent leather in a column T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm. 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. construction, this shoulder bag by GIORGIO ARMANI Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. T: 055 2670086. Map D3 features an elegant and subtle embossed logo. T: 055 267471 Map E3 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 055 212305 Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 FURLA—www.furla.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. T: 055 2741013. Map E3 Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— T: 055 293811. Map E4 Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 T: 055 294909. Map F4 Outfits were paraded in Paris for the autumn-winter 2020-2021 CHANEL collection paying homage to the themes dear to Karl Lagerfeld, but with a touch of carefree youthful lightness. Among LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. The iconic model of the BRUNELLO CUCINELLI sports line uses precious the recurring details: buttons opening and closing the sides of the trousers or full skirts with side slits, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. materials to create sophisticated combinations. The soft washed chamois calf-length boots with cuffs, Maltese cross set with precious stones. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. upper is combined with semi-gloss calfskin details. T: 055 2398688. Map E4

20 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING SHOPPING

international brands range from the classic to the Angela Caputi Giuggiù Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths contemporary and for men from formal to smart “Radiomir” watches, a mechanical legend since COSTUME JEWELLERY in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury 30’s, mirror the OFFICINE PANERAI technical The brand is renowned admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. shopping and for new brands, exclusive products excellence. where many of the characteristics throughout the world. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ and the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente. Sophisticated, original Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4 it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. of the original model are conserved. creations made from unusual Piazza della Repubblica. Dodo materials such as plastic and T: 055 219113. Map F3 The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by resin, combined to create unique objects both Florentine tradition of marbled Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have paper (diaries, address books, collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm been used as accessories by famous television FINE ART photo albums, articles for the desk) pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www. and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, Abacus in addition to a line of classic leather dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. capable of creating a look or dressing up any type BINDERY A workshop producing precious accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4 of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am- classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and paper, 100% cotton or leather with vegetable 6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1 Fani Gioielli workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- tanning or hand-dyed using ancient methods and Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Pitti Mosaici 7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 natural waxes, are all selected with care. All the Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- phases are supervised in the workshop: from the and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine 7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate phase sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and Map F4 of hand stitching, to the application of the cover prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, SOCIÉTÉ ANONYME ANTICO SETIFICIO semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and See this page. using various styles. www.abacusfirenze.com. Open Annamaria Cammilli FIORENTINO See this page. to provide coverings for walls, framed items and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm- Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style 7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318. it has been present with its creations in shop of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3 Map L4 windows and display cases all over the world for entire made-to-measure residential projects all class and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, Elena Mirò Antico Setificio Fiorentino over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Massai Orafi Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Rinascente-Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò great tradition of Renaissance textile art and de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6 Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Map F3 drawing inspiration from nature and the floral has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing history, thanks also to its famous warping machine Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of Torchio (Il) world. www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon items that enhance every woman’s look with Société Anonyme based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. a contemporary, refined and ever new style. An independent shop of North-European 1786 the workshop has been producing some pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 EDITOR’S TIP From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to conception inspired by the underground of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, and others besides. A visit to the with refined materials such as Florentine leather, workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of taffeta, and lampas in the world, 100% made in Aprosio hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape with London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and devising new artisan articles with contemporary master goldsmiths have practised the ancient style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). creates jewellery accessories and products for materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, founded an avant-garde art gallery in New York Via L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3 decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3 com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi. called Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Galleria Romanelli Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Giovanni Raspini in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down Map G6 Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4 In the beating heart of the fashion district, the it offers labels of international renown and niche T: 055 210127. Map E2 precious sculpture artwork for six generations boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s in one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods Cassetti 1926 Officine Panerai in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and collection that is only sold in-store and online. JEWELLERY & WATCHES of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of Florence) is a genuine concept store that boasts a www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, Alessandro Dari Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique personalized layout design where a 15th-century Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner th where sculptors and their students carry out their UNIQUE Housed in the 15 -century Palazzo fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a boasts a unique design and a strong identity that tapestry stands out. Fine jewellery - with a unique of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the Nasi-Quaratesi, the “Museum Shop” of master studio that develops innovative projects with its own Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced personality, often animal-themed, sometimes District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3 trade. Work is done by commission on original goldsmith Alessandro Dari has an area used to artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am- by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. oversized or limited edition - silverware, objects Stefano Ricci sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara exhibit his precious works and another used as an 7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5 A space on the first floor is devoted to special for the home, hand-crafted white bronze Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli. artistic workshop where jewellery and decorative sales and another is reserved for periodic creations, always having a style that is midway with the purest male elegance as the watchword. com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo objects are developed, including one-off items Damiani exhibitions of watches from the historical between minimalism and classicism as the These, in short, are the values of the company San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047.Map C4 and themed collections. Some of his works are Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker is at common denominator. From the design to the founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife displayed at the nearby Treasury of the Grand long goldsmithing tradition which it has always customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond- Claudia, which, now in its second generation, has Leone Cei & Sons Dukes in Palazzo Pitti. www.alessandrodari.com. interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai. setting, each piece is entirely hand worked. become a successful international group. From Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and Via San Niccolò, 115/r. T: 055 244747. Map G6 spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2 Via Porta Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique Luisaviaroma leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and models from a rare and abundant archive. The MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents production, entirely made in Florence, is destined 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a Italian excellence all over the world, making for private homes, hotels and private clubs all landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian over the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing world over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values and lacquering work is performed rigorously ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ with 5 million visitors a month, its Florence store of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of by hand following traditional procedures and In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building also offers a digitalized purchasing experience: the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico using natural products and pigmentations. A known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the huge department is dedicated to fabrics for instead of displaying the garments, they have Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart San Frediano district that has produced precious furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still been replaced with interactive installations. Don’t of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original produced on ancient looms or limited editions, miss the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. or produced on request and based on customers’ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni- designs. Qualified consultancy service provided international customers, are genuinely unique pieces 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3 Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3 on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items Marina Rinaldi DEPARTMENT STORES Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide Rinascente T: 055 2396039. Map D3 www.angelacaputi.com

range of collections, featuring both contemporary In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 Papiro (Il) and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal ideal place to discover the best of fashion, Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, accessories, beauty, home and design items. Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces bags and accessories for a total look that exudes For women, proposals of the best Italian and objects drawing their inspiration from the

22 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING SHOPPING

sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. UGG Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 Gianni Chiarini Marioluca Giusti Aquazzura shoes have been worn by trendsetters, First single-brand boutique in Italy of the In the unique and exclusive setting that is Established in the 1990s, this brand is the A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion Californian lifestyle brand specialising in footwear. Ponte Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the design objects for the table and more besides, insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura.com. A brightly lit space with colours and themes Tax Free storeys: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, creation of contemporary bags and accessories, in a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno taking up the decorative elements of the UGG with three display tables; the first floor has two with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern crystal glass and melamine collections are Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4 2019 campaign, in the heart of historic piazza della Refund Guide rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time enhanced every year with new models with colour Repubblica. Inside, the more traditional models a fully equipped customer care centre, where sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart shades ranging from white to black to transparent, Salvatore Ferragamo stands alonside new footwear. www. ugg.com. qualified Rolex technicians are available to look of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, Open 3pm-7.30pm: Tues-Sat 10-30am-7.30pm; after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della are particularly appreciated by important and services, and is part of the European Union’s inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the Sun 11.30am-7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3 international personalities such as the Princes of company’s historic workshop since 1938 and 30/r. T: 055 0945430. Map F3 value added tax system. T: 055 2741044. Map F5 Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a Il Bisonte Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services Tiffany & Co. Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came boutiques are characterized by total white walls STATIONERY about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. Located in the luxury shopping street par with niches where the accessories are exhibited, excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por collections. The brand represents Italian quality, Pineider 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della contemporary elegance, innovation and tradition. Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of non EU resident • you are a - ; the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm- The boutique occupies the entire ground floor paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and • the goods purchased are intended for personal or and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via of the building, inside large spaces decorated design are the distinctive features of this brand, family use only and are carried in your luggage; City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. with 18th-century frescoes. The wing of the store which is unique worldwide: from the printing of that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the precious and embossed paper to articles made of • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, The brand’s key focus is on materials, including T: 055 2399527. Map D3 design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive fine leather, to elegant writing instruments created 154,94 Euro (VAT included); Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s in the Tuscan workshops, Pineider products have • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice di Santa Maria Novella women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Open Mon- of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open iconic models. www.ferragamo.com. Open endless possibilities of personalisation. UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy should include a description of the goods purchased, Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ www.pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Piazza de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r. T: 055 284656. Map E3 your personal information as well as the details of Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4 Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 your passport or any other equivalent document; Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the Ugo Poggi It came about in Florence in the early 20th Novella and has been open to the public for over third month after the month that you bought them; PASSION SHOPPING century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, AquaFlor • several specific customs formalities are glassware and furnishings. After a century, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, A perfume shop with the charm of past times, complied with; now in its third generation, today the brand sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer proposes a sophisticated production of luxury world in 75 single brand stores and represent a of perfumes made using natural and rare raw within four months after the purchase was made. Florentine hand-crafted items for the home: production par excellence on account of their materials, personalisable through the choice of 4. from precious crystal chandeliers to bone china quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître crockery, to a precious selection of antique techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. be shown at the customs exit point when leaving parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - silverware. No longer just internally produced The frescoed monumental environments - Sales www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am- EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items furnishing accessories, but also historic Italian Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and 1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs and top quality international brands. www. Sacristy - have been returned to their former T: 055 2343471. Map H5 BEFORE checking in). ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; splendour thanks to restoration work. www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 26/r. Dr. Vranjes Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the T: 055 216741. Map E3 Home fragrances and elegant furnishing Map D2 accessories made by hand in Florence for customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice Vacheron Constantin Boutique more than 30 years. Florence is home to the must be returned within four months from the date In the unique and exclusive setting that is The Merchant of Venice laboratories and the headquarters of the when the document was issued. Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest The new boutique is structured into a vast Florentine home fragrance company founded 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian fine watchmaking design house in the world, range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, retailer founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the completed by products for personal care, (however, make sure that the shop you’ve namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo boutique is also known for the tabernacle with for the environment and accessories. The chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint essences are contained in packaging with Free” sign in its window). to the traditional production of ambient John that marked the presence of an ancient designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition 7. Tax-Free companies are able to offer diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the brand has Several oratory of the Holy Sepulchre, which came of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods under the control of the Knights of Malta in the provides a personalized layering service. www. perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating early 14th century. www.cassetti.it. Open daily themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat the passenger from having to return the invoice to by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon Map F5 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. T: 055 216559. Map E3 major international airports or main border crossings. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • From California to Florence Valli Tessuti Alta Moda Most major department stores have Tax Free LEATHER Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. The footwear, clothing and accessories of the UGG® brand, founded in 1978 by an Australian A reference point in Florence that offers its Refund offices. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3 • Cuoieria Fiorentina clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired surfer on the coast of California, which has become an icon of style thanks to its leather and 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am- From the famous ancient hand-crafting 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. by the most beautiful haute couture collections. reversed sheepskin boots, find space in the brand’s first Italian boutique. A brightly lit space, the payment of a small administrative sum which tradition of the Florentine “pellai” [leather Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3 The store carries a vast assortment of precious, which has been created using a combination of wood, wrought iron and glass furnishings, is directly deducted from the amount of VAT craftsmen], typical of this area of Tuscany, here sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt- with pastel colours and themes taking up the decorative elements of the #UGGLIFE F/W 2019 refunded to the traveller. unique, inimitable products are created with La Ménagère à-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and campaign. Inside, the more traditional models stand alongside new footwear from the Classic 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund extreme care and top-quality natural materials. CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. Revolution collection, which reinterprets classicism with a contemporary touch, inspired by within a reasonable period of time, he or she A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags of around 1500 square metres that includes a vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. the vitality of San Francisco. Drawing inspiration from Classic Short II, Classic Mini II and Neumel should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the for him and for her, offering excellent value in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located T: 055 282485. Map D3 models by the brand, the collection includes thirteen renovated models. Stylistic research aforementioned companies. for money. Another strong point is the right in the city centre, in the space that was once with the use of new materials, decorative elements such as straps and zippers and the addition 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded personalization of the products, organised occupied by the first Florentine household item SHOES directly by customs offices. to satisfy the tastes and requirements of shop, which opened in 1896, it combines industrial of wedges are combined with an in-depth study of comfort, reaching its peak in the new Miwo Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund customers, who can count Michelle Obama and recycled materials and design objects for a Aquazzura sneakers, with a gritty design and avant-garde Vibram® soles. In addition to footwear, lovers of among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. contemporary result with a romantic touch. Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by shopping can also find a selection of outerwear and accessories. www.ugg.com Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1 combines a typically European refined aesthetic

24 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25 [ RINASCENTE] The best shopping

In the heart of the city, in Piazza della Repubblica, Rinascente offers the best of cosmetics, fashion, food and design, with the addition of new hand-made products following the tradition. And there’s also the opportunity to enjoy typical tasty dishes while looking at a breathtaking panorama.

The Rinascente store, a few yards from the The third Floor, featuring the Women’s Duomo, is spread over a total area of 3,300 Clothing and the Women’s Shoes areas, is square metres with seven floors devoted to truly a hotbed for artisan products. The store fashion, beauty, food and lifestyle. As with the proposes, side-by-side, clothes for her of other points-of-sale around the peninsula, accessible luxury and advanced contemporary the space is giving its look a makeover to brands, ready to wear options, lingerie, bags, make shopping even more captivating and fragrances, jewellery, sunglasses, shoes by engrossing. The thread running through that is luxury brands as well as urban-style sneakers. driving the renovation of the Florentine store The new fourth Floor offers a transversal is artisanship, a concept that is very dear shopping experience combining fashion, to the city. Particular attention has also been quality craftsmanship, design, beauty products reserved for leather goods and menswear, in and food: the “Tosca&Nino, the taste of perfect harmony with Florence’s identity. tradition” restaurant and bar, open from On Floor -1 devoted to beauty, with an breakfast till after dinner, focuses on rigorously offer ranging from skincare to make-up to selected Tuscan products, with a wine shop on perfumes, the real jewel is the “Beauty Lab”, the fifth Floor. Finally, the panoramic terrace with a selection of iconic products. with views of the Duomo, where you can The first Floor is the new destination sip a glass of wine and taste dishes from the for men’s fashion, which retains an eye tradition amid the city’s rooftops, will offer you on its young clientele, with proposals of a priceless experience. accessories, underwear and travel items. STORE: Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Timeless refinement is the thread running Sun 10.30am-8.30pm >> www.rinascente.it through the second Floor, with all the best ROOFTOP | RESTAURANT | CAFÉ: Piazza della Repubblica.

of men’s clothing and shoes. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun 10.30am-midnight T: 055 219113. SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE

26 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger, Under Armour FORTE destinations The Mall Sanremo and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI ? MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ? Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door of The Bicester Village Shopping Collection® by office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Value Retail: a place where hospitality makes the • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. shoppingSARDEGNA experience memorable. The Village is Valdichiana Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 2 hours With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands from Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm. restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS unique hospitality at the core of the services Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience and with over 120 boutiques of the world’s is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with prices (up to 70% off ), including Missoni, shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year Jil Sander, Sergio Rossi, Marni, Vivienne round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Westwood and many more. VALDICHIANA VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

28 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 29 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, TUSCAN CUISINE restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable because here the hamburger is accompanied by Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. Map G6 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan T: 055 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu L’Ortone based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted district, opposite the charming street market, the 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via T: 055 234 0804. Map L4 the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its Marione Trattoria quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary to book in advance, because there is usually a A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www. Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. Via della Spada menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this Opera Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5

Cibrèo Ristorante In Florence and in the area near the Market of

FIRENZEYESPLEASE.COM Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no

PHOTO © fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. The “place to be” for Tuscan cuisine T: 055 2341100. Map L3 Da Burde Not just shopping! Near Via de’ Tornabuoni, today - as over 130 years ago - the most authentic cuisine of the The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and © OKUNIN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Tuscan tradition is on show at Buca Lapi, served in an environment with a unique charm. By Giulia Minero PH livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that ince 1880, in the wine cellars of the and covered with posters from yesteryear, va sans dire – accompanied by a full-bodied of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich noble Palazzo Antinori, in the beating that is the number-one decorative element Tuscan red wine, to be chosen from a large, in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Genuine food for all tastes S heart of the city, there has stood the of the location, embellished by the frescoed carefully prepared wine list. Piedmontese wines but also French, including some oldest restaurant in Florence, bearing the walls of the first room. The dishes on the fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. at the Central Market Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map evocative name of Buca Lapi. Before delving menu, all strictly based on products from >> Via del Trebbio, 1R. www.bucalapi.com Where is it possible to taste Sicilian specialities, vegan dishes, Chianina hamburgers, sushi, fresh into the details of the venue, however, we the territory, are prepared in a show-cooking T: 055 213768. Map E3 IO Osteria Personale ADVERTORIALpasta, dishes from the Tuscan tradition such as tripe and lamprey, high-quality meats, pizzas, In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still need to provide a quick explanation of kitchen and include warm crostini with fried food specials and artisan ice-creams, all under one roof? At the Central Market in Florence, conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, “buche” (holes). These premises, below street sausage and ricotta, ribollita, wild boar with surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a a temple of taste located right in the city centre and housed on the first floor of the historic level with entrances from the main streets polenta, tripe in the grill pan or mixed fried modern tavern that has a preference for the products covered market of San Lorenzo. In this sort of modern agora for gourmets, in addition to the of the city, were once used as wine cellars, vegetables. The pasta, the key element of wild of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative craft shops where you can shop in the usual way, you can also take a seat at the large convivial deposits or basements to keep wine and other boar pappardelle, pici senesi with meat sauce way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli tables and enjoy one of the many specialities that are prepared there on the spot. In a territory of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring products, whereas today they are used for and wild fennel or cannelloni gratinati alla such as that of Florence, which is famous for the genuineness and quality of its dishes, the aim caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and restaurants with a particular vocation for local Buca Lapi, is home-made, respecting the most seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. has been to protect consumers to the maximum: all the operators at the Central Market in fact cuisine and distinguished by the characteristic authentic Tuscan tradition. Of course, bistecca Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 sign a quality specification whereby all the dishes prepared inside the market are cooked using exposed vaults. It is precisely the marvellous alla fiorentina could not be missing; thick and La Ménagère only the raw materials on sale at the market itself. The market also holds food and wine tasting ceiling, the custodian of history for over a juicy, cooked on soft charcoal and brushed A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, courses, book presentations and events of all kinds. www.mercatocentrale.it century thanks to a meticulous restoration with extra virgin olive oil, to be enjoyed – ça combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

30 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING DINING

restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. The “fiorentina” Michelin-starred restaurants background of the most important operas, you can Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar Buca Mario deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this (although you can still request a private room for case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, Osteria Badalì up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own of the past, all about long cooking times and www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts T: 055 214179. Map D3 bread using flour from ancient grains. found on the second-hand book stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Buca Poldo Ora d ’Aria as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169 Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan www.oradariaristorante.com dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. Touch Bistrò Toscano fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s of the hotelier institute have made their dream a courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also Buca Mario throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. the most iconic dishes in Florence recipes but tending towards a more creative name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to Map F4 cuisine. But be careful: to recognize the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can the original and tell it apart from the ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon hundreds of impostors, there are cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic a few tips you need to know. “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby Bottega del Buon Caffè portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, Tuscani 3 (I) Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red and a highly select menu of beers. venue and countless notables from Florence and with unwritten rules that the visitor In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient needs to know to avoid falling foul prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located Il Palagio vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from of the restaurant owner, paying over that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the the odds and to make sure they get www.ilpalagioristorante.it Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of the real thing. Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as Enoteca Pinchiorri vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. from a specific cut of a young Chianina enotecapinchiorri.it fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r. to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F4 cow, a part of the loin near the backbone How do you manage to be honoured with three del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of T: 055 285356. Map F4 modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo which has a T-bone in the middle. Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon Fiaschetteria Nuvoli achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps Zeb It should be grilled at a very high Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and destination for anyone who has ever wondered what temperature, so that a fine crust forms winning combination of prime quality raw materials, to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the include gems such as amberjack served in three ways at times venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it dish depends on the cooking: the meat territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver must be brown on the outside but red, to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which with pigeon, butter and thyme. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken includes highly prized labels, along with others that are labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast little known but equally interesting. Then we can add Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, cooked through. This is the first vital rule: porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th- Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 with a special focus on small local producers. €€. a fiorentina must be eaten rare. also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. Borgo San Jacopo T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms are a delight for the senses. Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative Ribollita calssica..e croccante T: 055 2342864. Map H6 thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two kgs, although bigger steaks are easily Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine. Ora d’Aria CANTINE PIZZA San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo. available. And here is another sore point. Pizza Man www.borgosanjacopo.com The menu is an explosive blend of flavours ranging Antica Mescita San Niccolò At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture from Italy to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque by weight. An average price to be sure of school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San getting the real thing is around 50 euros free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post a kilo. variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. WITH. The traditional accompaniment is tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. usually cannellini beans, washed down Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all around the tones of green and pistachio and can also reflects the season and the local territory, with T: 055 2480200. Map H4 washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 welcome up t o 35 diners indoors. dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, with a glass of Chianti. bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- Pizzaiuolo (Il) WHERE. Here are four restaurants where a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, based one is unmissable) or à la carte. La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. La Bottega del Buon Caffè www.laleggendadeifrati.it SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Buca Lapi pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan Zero food miles products gathered from the organic helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta ristorante-perseus-firenze). PHOTO © Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts (C.Z.) history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3

32 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort wVia di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Il Conventino a Marignolle Il Palagio vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle Il Palagio and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are Bristol Winter Garden c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan www.ilpalagioristorante.it dishes. Tradition, innovation and creativity: Flora & Fauno A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Where® highlights some culinary c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant Se•Sto on Arno Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence destinations to whet your appetite T: 055 670971 tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 in several top hotels in Florence. www.hotelvillesullarno.com ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine www.westinflorence.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three Local flavours and seasonal products for a the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an Borgo San Jacopo spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. The unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor c/o Hotel Lungarno the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The Trattoria al fresco. a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by www.borgosanjacopo.com protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, sweeping picture windows that make the most of On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, Irene the unique position and breathtaking view over Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant at other times sticking to tradition. c/o Hotel Savoy La Loggia the city. is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine Golden Restaurant www.roccofortehotels.com Villa La Vedetta quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Claudio c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle Le Bistrot Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Villa La Vedetta Mengoni, accompanied by collector wines from a Piazza Strozzi 11/r. building with an extraordinary collection of art works, c/o Villa Cora c/o Bernini Palace Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 cantina of 900 labels. T: 055 287860 the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 www.villalavedettahotel.com www.goldentowerhotel.it Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni www.villacora.it hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Bristol Winter Garden The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park One of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking c/o Helvetia & Bristol Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic in the historic centre, housed under a 16th-century view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the seasonal products. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on www.starhotelscollezione.com ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, flavours, such as the celebrated pappa al pomodoro, fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and The restaurant is located inside the evocative and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though Winter Garden, covered by the historic Liberty- and fittings. c/o JK Place Firenze Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes regional specialities, the menu also offers international there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options style glass ceiling. A versatile ambience with Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part dishes. too. classic motifs of 18th-century chinoiserie. Among Il Giardino Restaurant www.jkplace.com locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant the proposals of Chef Pasquale D’Ambrosio the c/o Sina Villa Medici Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its Ristorante La Loggia Winter Garden by Caino inimitable roasted rock octopus and the most Via Il Prato, 42. local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves c/o Belmond Villa San Michele c/o The Saint Regis Florence traditional Chianina tenderloin, a true tribute to T: 055 2771891 farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining poolside to the winter garden. Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 the Tuscan land. The Winter Garden opens into the www.sinahotels.com room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the www.belmond.com www.wintergardenbycaino.com Tinello, the beating heart of the hotel, designed by A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance of terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Relais Le Jardin This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Riccardo Barthel, that hosts a variety of gastronomic the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century c/o Hotel Regency visit even just for its magnificent position looking over Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred appointments in different moments of the day. palace, recently renovated and restored to its former La Cucina del Salviatino Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities revisited restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out splendour. The restaurant, with its winter garden c/o Il Salviatino www.regency-hotel.com in a contemporary accent by Executive Chef of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini Capriccio Restaurant which can be opened during the summer months, Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge Alessandro Cozzolino. and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their menu c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid has been studied in every detail with an exclusive www.salviatino.com mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 design. Seasonality and territoriality are the basis for Il Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the www.montebellosplendid.com Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by chef Luigi Incrocci. a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, out The menu presents interesting creations of the best links to the local territory and the seasons, with a dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with class Italian and international tradition, revisited in a modern prevalence of meat courses, though there is no such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality products mood. The philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, and absolute freshness for a couple’s candlelight is to amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their dinner or a special event. has 60 wine labels. food miles. highest quality. famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection original take on tiramisù.

34 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 35 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www. APERITIVI aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. Chiaroscuro Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5 Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, T: 055 286258. Map F5 Florentines today are attracted by the original Foody Farm and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and Three Sixty “The right food from the right places” is the motto aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished From May to September the Grand Hotel of this little restaurant where the quality and with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro. Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An it. Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3 magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming original and genuine light lunch, with the option pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, Easy living grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am (little beach), its location is quite singular: this till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce strictly summer-only bar is built right on the Zoe district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. river-bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, T: 055 242327. Map H5 from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif in a bar with essential modern furnishings and with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with soft lighting. For years a favourite with the Odeon Bistrot live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a younger crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www. trendy San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 2341112. Map I6 Map H6 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion BRUNCH cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, Ditta Artigianale 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4 surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving Procacci Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4 competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an institution, and not only in Florence, especially Il Locale best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food located in a small street not far from the Duomo. serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3

Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence ROCCO RORANDELLI / TERRAPROJECT and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly PHOTO © acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Moyo Antinori wine experience Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in The Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico region combines an age-old family tradition with an avant-garde a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. structure, for an immersive experience going far beyond simple wine-tasting. By Chiara Zaccarelli Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4 Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue mmersed in the extraordinary Chianti cellar and the elegance of Antinori wines. that combines modern furnishings and frescoed landscape, amid gentle hills, endless Various tasting itineraries are available: ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always © PIXEL TO THE PEOPLE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Ivineyards and old olive-groves, the Cantina from the simpler one, for those approaching attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno PH Antinori in the Chianti Classico Region the world of Marchesi Antinori to the more Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4 welcomes you with its ultramodern architecture complete one, which includes a tasting of Rooftop Bar La Terrazza and all the ancient know-how of the Antinori seven wines and lunch at the “Rinuccio 1180” Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio Flying over Tuscany furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at Marquises. About 45 minutes by car from restaurant, located on the roof of the Cantina. If you happen to only be in Florence for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of Florence, this low environmental impact, To complete the visit, it is possible to visit the the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. ADVERTORIALtour from a different perspective, perhaps in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a high energy-saving structure overlooks the “Futuro Antico” space, where a part of the family com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4 company recognized by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, offers its guests itineraries surrounding countryside where Sangiovese collection is exhibited. lasting between 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of the region’s most unmissable Se·Sto on Arno grapes are grown (together with the other The Antinori Family has been dedicated to The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs destinations, including cities of art and charming landscapes. Various launch points – varieties of grape that have historically been producing wines for more than six hundred every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large located in Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the heart of the Chianti hills placed alongside them). Here it is possible years now, managing the activity with innovative terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels – enable you to personalize your itinerary to the maximum, at the same time enjoying the to experience delights of the senses by choices, but maintaining an unchanged respect of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. exhilaration of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery and the discovery of historical Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3 immersing yourself in an itinerary that is for the traditions and for the territory. and cultural landmarks guided by pilots who are experts on the locations. architectural, gustatory and emotional at the Signorvino www.balloonintuscany.com same time, revealing the majesty of the wine >> antinorichianticlassico.it This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines

36 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance. Visarno Arena (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3 www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY T: 055 212320. Map H4 seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue Teatro del Sale for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Teatro Goldoni has already hosted, among others, concerts by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the co-founder, president and artistic director Maria to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a four orders, the theatre experienced a period Bagni San Filippo two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions. (E.P.) Maria Novella). Off Map Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed historical design by Italian director and actor Luca price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, WELLNESS Bagni San Filippo www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno metabolism of the blood vessels. Via dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district). 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6 Bené SPA A small town not far from the slopes of Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com. T: 055 2001492. Map I3 Teatro del Maggio This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its T: 0577 889001. Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside sulphur waters, which were used by the Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771. CONCERT VENUES the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione to the main hotel complex by an underground Etruscans, and for the white calcareous Castello di Velona & THEATRES Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the small gym, sauna, hammam and three large deposits that form the small, spectacular An 11th-century fortress transformed into a San Casciano dei Bagni Teatro Comunale founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina private cabins for personalised treatments. The hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco. residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle Classified among the “Most Beautiful The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony Unlike the well-being and spa treatment - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately concerts and operas are performed in a tailored face treatment products by beauty guru centre, access to this area is free of charge. overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. a hill immersed in the Siena countryside. half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo for around 1800, but also part of the complex Off Map Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B The indoor and outdoor swimming pools are ancient washtubs where it is possible is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can www.villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) to bathe freely, while there are indoor and hold a little under 600 spectators. The name Stazione Leopolda T: 055 228790. Off Map “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena). use water from a nearby thermal spring outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established station: it was decommissioned, and today has Firenze Number Nine originating on Mount Amiata. a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back become a sought-after venue for meetings, This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Bagno Vignoni Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & by a magical garden with views of Mount Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city to the second half of the 19th century. www. conferences and various events. A versatile, This tiny ancient stone village has one Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Amiata. operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. multifunctional space, it has its name associated centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.” unique and unforgettable characteristic: Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002. Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com. Map B2 with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of A 400-square metre spa offering a full range the event that launched the career of Florentine of treatments, open every day, also to outside at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni Teatro Verdi politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted. ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not Grotta Giusti (Siena). T: 0578 57241. The largest “Italian-style” theatre in Tuscany Very well known, among Florentines too, is com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. for bathing) where the spar waters are The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the is located in Florence, in the historic district of Map A1 the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www. collected, gushing out at a temperature of outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino firenzenumbernine.com. Via dei Conti, 9. 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative that winds its way among stalactites and Among the most beautiful free thermal T: 055 293777. Map F3 steam during the cold months. stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino Four Seasons SPA Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it. water, the temperatures of which vary are small natural pools supplied by small A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150. and balneotherapy are practised there in environment. Next to them, the Terme di plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae. baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the Saturnia complex has spring water pools, Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort. for teens and children also available. The super- Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-del- modern fitness centre is located in the quiet of mulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com. Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1 Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano Golden Beauty & SPA (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111. This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional Terme di Petriolo showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the The thermal baths are sited on a natural 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the outside guests as the beauty centre annex every course of the River Farma. The waters, rich day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4 and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. Il Villino SPA termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena). resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ THE MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO is a unique spa, studded with original details, hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality luxury materials, and hand-made decorations Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range Bagno Vignoni operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059. of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno

C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map PHOTOS ©SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

38 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, important artists of the period participated in its monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe who used the river to dispose of their waste in a creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous del Poggi”. Map I7 multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it 19 th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths San Miniato al Monte construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. history, on prominent display on the bridge is a building situated at one of the highest panoramic it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith points in Florence. The most spectacular access is of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge gained via the monumental flight of steps (which Battistero between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli is not advisable, however, for those with problems Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via walking). The outside of the church is decorated Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 with green and white marble, typical of Florentine building that completes the considerably striking Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, decorates the central part of the façade. www. th The symbol of wealth and power, the building was but its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a T: 055 234 2731. Off Map dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy The outside is decorated with white marble from family. The original architecture dates back to the Mercato Centrale Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque owner. The building is located on the left bank of the entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and most important examples of Italian-style gardens inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in the world and are considered a genuine open-air floor of the historic covered market there has been in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, museum. Currently they are the site of four different a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the leisure activities and street food options, and this www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery has now become a point of reference for informal Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and but good quality cuisine for both Florentines Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Campanile di Giotto www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation 294883. Map E6 Map F1 of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del WWW.ALESSANDROMOGGI.COM Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. Amid faith, art and history it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 Universally recognised as one of the locations symbolising the city, consecrated in 1059 in honour of its patron, Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of Saint John, the Baptistery of San Giovanni is one of the oldest places of worship in Florence. By Giulia Minero civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman ocated opposite the complex of Santa The exterior of the Baptistery, on the other Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery owes part hand, entirely covered in slabs of white the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the LUCY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM of its renown to its particular octagonal marble from Carrara and green marble from Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and L PH © plan structure - typical of the baptisteries Prato, is famous for its three bronze doors, Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent of antiquity - surmounted by a pyramidal of immense historical and artistic value. The in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a dome consisting of eight segments, the South Door, by Andrea Pisano, dating back series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties one of the most important sculptural cycles in the richly decorated interior of which bears the to 1330, illustrates the life of Saint John the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno signatures of great Renaissance artists of the Baptist in 28 inlaid panels, the North Door, David: the one on display in its original position is a district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of calibre of Cimabue and Coppo di Marcovaldo. by Lorenzo Ghiberti, imagines the life and copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the Among the masterpieces contained in it, passion of Christ through 20 panels, and with dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious in addition to the funerary monument in a further eight, the four evangelists and four Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; memory of the “Antipope” John XXIII created “fathers of the church”, while the East Door, Gate of Paradise, detail. Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest by Michelozzo and Donatello, the precious located opposite the Cathedral and known by of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one gilded mosaics of the dome representing the epithet conferred on it by Michelangelo, important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its the Angelic Hierarchies and Universal of “Porta del Paradiso” (Gate of Paradise), >> Battistero di San Giovanni imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today. Judgement stand out, dominated by the consists of ten gilded panels representing Piazza San Giovanni. Map F2 its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6 great figure of Christ the Judge. scenes from the Old Testament. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

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Santa Croce precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare relationship between fashion and art. The museum Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD www.firenzecard.it Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. headquarters for his company and his workshop – radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti. Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3 art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. Museo Giardini di Boboli masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal Map H1 com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous experienced that profound artistic agitation that has 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. An elegant collection of works made of semi- responsible for designing their layout, creating the Museo Stefano Bardini The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres precious stones and multi-coloured marble and model of the Italian-style garden that was to become A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, an example for many European courts. Populated antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with private collection to Florence, where it was displayed T: 055 2466105. Map H4 samples. The works are displayed in chronological grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his Santa Maria Novella order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and back to the end of the 13th century but work on it of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Museo di Palazzo Vecchio continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). the Firenzecard circuit or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. T: 055 2342427.Map G6 • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of Map E6 degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free. Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over Orsanmichele art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, time it has undergone numerous enlargement and Museo Nazionale del Bargello A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it. transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes This imposing building, built between the 13th and religious functions are combined. Built as a Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. are rooms and private environments sumptuously and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2 Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, Forte di Belvedere for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici decorated by some of the most famous artists of the the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. Santo Spirito commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Cappella Brancacci fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; important collection of Renaissance sculptures, famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the point of reference of the Augustinian order. The Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved church has given its name to the entire surrounding the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 Map G4 daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria Museo di Santa Maria Novella A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left Galleria degli Uffizi Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Museo Salvatore Ferragamo www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book floors of the large building erected between 1560 and Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works This is a museum devoted to the history of the T: 055 210030. Map D5 (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri the most famous museums in the world on account such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, T: 055 2388606. Map F4 San Lorenzo €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every Santa Maria del Fiore Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. and paintings. The collections of paintings from the by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi year it organises exhibitions that investigate the The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by 558-2382195. Map C5 of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important combination of art, faith and history located in the century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in Cappelle Medicee collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open Tues- centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del of the last major reconstruction work that took place in museum, but their history is closely associated with Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, 055 23885.Map F5 Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a designed and conceived as regards its sculptural the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single which unfortunately was never executed. The interior a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, with prior booking necessary for the Dome. by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed Villa Bardini and Gardens Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket in the adjacent premises are works coming from the The most beautiful view of Florence earned it price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and MUSEUMS & the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza the convents themselves, which were abolished in the place rich in history, art and culture, has become EXHIBITION SITES Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2 Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary

Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical STOCKPHOTOVIDEO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www. architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope PHOTO © (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being centre that hosts international level exhibitions, galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin- ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition MUSEO DEL BARGELLO starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati ascending the monumental staircase designed by devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum Museo degli Innocenti The National Museum of the Bargello is located inside the Palazzo of the same name from (see “Dining”), and surrounding it are four hectares Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli the 13th century, the oldest public building in Florence. Its collection of Renaissance statues of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, where concerts, performances, contemporary art Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 is considered among the most significant at world level: it in fact includes masterpieces by garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues Michelangelo, Donatello, Ghiberti, Cellini, Giambologna, Ammannati and other important Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain sculptors, in addition to a large applied arts collection. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. museum itinerary combines the documentary and Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6

42 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

SEAN XU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s Can be used on buses, trams or trains. purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, ticket from 10pm to 3am). A further step in the digital Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he NEW AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) transformation of Florence’s public transport: 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on (or have them book for you at your hotel). travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called You should also bear in mind that the serious 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains so if you are an early bird then that could give you travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the a significant advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).

44 WHERE FLORENCE I OCTOBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 45 V A SI E S T E S E

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L L Santa Maria a Ricorboli S S E VIA UGO FOSCOLO Chiesa di I C H E L VIA M A

San Salvatore al Monte N E L E

G VIA DELL’ERTA CANINA

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V I A R E I M S I C O I NLEONARDO Porta Romana VIA FRANCESCO BOCCHI L ONI

VIA UGO FOSCOLO M A E R B O S A

Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O

PIAZZALE VI

VIA ERTACANINA VIA DI PORTA ROMANA

O VIA UGUCCIONE DELLA FAGGIOLA E

Giardino della Scuderie Reali E Parco Della

V IA L E M A C H IA V E L L I Liceo Artistico L Cimitero Villa di VIA AUSTRIA Statale di Porta Romana I

Delle Porte Sante L Rusciano V. G. CAPONSACCHI PIAZZA L

Parco della Carraia A VIA GRAN BRETAGNA ISLANDA

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Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte

V PIAZZA CARDINALE

VIA DEL BOBOLINO Palazzo dei Vescovi

ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO

AD LVPEI OL GM OGI P I EAR LEI

L VIA DELLE PORTE SANTE

Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA

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VIA PORTOGALLO

V I A G I R A M O N T E RBOSA

V Parco della Rimembranza

A DI SAN LEONARDO L I L A I

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AV I VIA SENESE G A O BA EVN I ED ET OF R, N TI V I A E S

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VIALE MACHIAVELLI LLO V I A D I R I P O L I GA

VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI

ARCETRI V. P. TACCA

A TORRE DEL PIAZZA

SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O

VIA DELL E V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L G A

VIA MARCO POLO

V AI B E N E D E T T O F O R T NI ,I

VIA DEl PARADISO

DUE STRADE

VIA MARCO POLO

V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

VIA GIOVANNI AGNELLI

VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI

VIA DELLE CINQUE VIE

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