Turin City Guide

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TURIN CITY GUIDE

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whereMAGAZINE Turin Siamo qui da secoli. Vi aspettiamo. www.whereitalia.com/turin We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you.

PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Messaggio dal Paese più bello del mondo. Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano A message from the most beautiful country in the world. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 [email protected] www.whereitalia.com/turin Il settore del turismo ha sofferto più di tutti The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF della recente pandemia. I lockdown, le chiusure Andrea Jarach global economy – the tourism industry. The current lockdown, closing [email protected] of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this Andrea Jarach dei confini, il crollo del reddito disponibile, nel COO Pierfrancesco Coreno editorial could be very depressing, but remember we’re talking about Publisher momento in cui scrivo potrebbero ispirare solo [email protected] Where® Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout depressione. Ma stiamo invece parlando dell’Italia. MANAGING EDITOR Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Alessandra Finzi history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics, [email protected] La meta preferita per secoli dai viaggiatori. Infinite volte sfidata da CONTRIBUTORS and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the guerre, carestie, epidemie e infinite volte tornata ad essere il Paese più Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, most desirable tourist destination in the world. desiderato al mondo. Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli

ICONOGRAPHY Every night is followed by a new dawn, and if you look carefully you Archivio Proedi Media, Dopo ogni notte ci sarà una alba, e a ben guardare i segni possono Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock will see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets essere già colti anche oggi. L’analisi dei big data di internet mostra CARTOGRAPHY shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions City Map © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 l’Italia come prima destinazione ricercata in milioni di interrogazioni Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Venice online. L’offerta del nostro Paese è immensamente vasta per tesori unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, naturali e culturali. Siamo il Paese con il maggior numero di Siti Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum [email protected] UNESCO Patrimonio dell’Umanità. Se fossimo un museo saremmo il in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the ADMINISTRATION museo più grande del mondo. Se fossimo un ristorante quello con la Katia Greto world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it [email protected] cucina più apprezzata. Se fossimo una spiaggia quella meglio attrezzata would be the best equipped in the world. PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are al mondo. Paola Grilli [email protected] only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is Montagne, foreste e boschi, laghi, colline paesaggi unici HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was Maria Granata contraddistinguono l’Italia. Ma tutto questo poi è reso unico dalla Florence [email protected] a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, gente. Meglio, dalle genti. Per millenni la penisola fu meta di migrazioni CUSTOMER SERVICES settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in e popoli del nord o del mare si installarono apportando nuove culture Cristina Garbini [email protected] the creation of Italy. che andarono a creare l’Italia. SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge E adesso caro visitatore ti aspettiamo orgogliosi della nostra Italia, PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our accoglienti, e decisi a offrirti una esperienza unica che nei secoli milioni Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published di viaggiatori hanno ricercato. Dopo la pestilenza del Medio Evo arrivò il in the next issue. experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences Rinascimento. arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or Turin the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance! in part is strictly prohibited. Where® è qui per svolgere la sua missione di guidare i viaggiatori Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS alla scoperta dell’Italia, anche nel nuovo Rinascimento. WHERE® TURIN È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI TORINO to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance. WHERE® TURIN IS AVAILABLE IN TURIN’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS A presto! TURIN.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION We look forward to seeing you soon! L'editore The Publisher Where® magazine and the where® MVP logo are registered Morris Visitor Publications trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. >> Per verificare i giorni e le modalità di apertura di >> To check the opening of museums, restaurants, MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS musei, ristoranti, negozi e outlet: www.wheremilan.com MVP EXECUTIVE stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III Rome PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR

Virtual Tours of Italian Museums What can you do when at home for the Coronavirus lockdown? Why not visit a museum in a new way, with a virtual tour, for example. We've rounded up a selection of the Milanese and Italian museums virtually opening their doors to the public thanks to their websites and official social media accounts. BY GIULIA MINERO

ven during these days at home facing the COVID-19 emergency, the culture never stops. Institutions, public and private museums and art galleries are all united to provide their visitors with the Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan Echance to explore their collections, the featured exhibitions – which are all closed to the public – and even enjoy site-specific events and special activities. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you'll be spoilt for Reality stories. Sunday: Leonardo da Vinci. choice. Enjoy your visit! Museo della Scienza Other online activities are held on the official e della Tecnologia Facebook, Instagram and YouTube accounts. Pinacoteca di Brera “Leonardo da Vinci” >> Check the online activities at MILAN MILAN www.museoscienza.org The Museum is still working to share its Those who are at home for the safety measures most precious treasures with its visitors. to prevent the spread of COVID-19 or people Fondazione Prada #storieaportechiuse engages visitors of all who just would like to visit a museum and don’t MILAN ages in behind-the-scenes tours, explorations have the chance to do it can take advantage During the lockdown connected to the of the collections and archives, science news, of a new concept of museum visits powered COVID-19 issue, Milan’s Fondazione Prada educational lab activities... with videos, pictures by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery). has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to and unpublished documents. Most of the On the art gallery’s website, lovers of art can various online services enabling visitors to contents are published in Italian in order to reach discover over 669 works of art thanks to the fully discover the foundation and its heritage more effectively the local audiences. Yet you can online collection. Each masterpiece features straight from their homes. According to this still enjoy the beautiful pictures and fascinating a caption, a description of the context in new concept of multimedia experience, visual material provided in the program. Here which it was created, the used technique and the foundation’s website, as well as the is the daily schedule, every week: Monday: some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo Stories from the Museum’s deposits and behind- magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors and YouTube accounts become the ideal the-scenes work. Tuesday: Interactive workshops can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and stage to share ideas and explore new ways and informal education. Wednesday: Science religious images as if they were discovering to experiment with culture. Thanks to and technology news. Thursday: Tales from them inside the museum. the “Glossary” section, for instance, the the Museum’s history. Friday: Items from the Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”, Milan >> Check the online collection at various projects connected to art, cinema, Museum’s archives and libraries. Saturday: Virtual pinacotecabrera.org dance, music, architecture and philosophy

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Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section the museum through Art Talks dedicated to on the official website allows guests to enjoy masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, between art from the past and the various podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, cultures of the world. Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Musei Vaticani - Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, The Vatican Museums Instagram @guggenheim_venice, ROME Twitter @GuggenheimPGC The various halls of the Vatican Museums >> Check the online collections at in Rome – which include 26 sections and www.guggenheim-venice.it museums-within-the-museum, among which the Stanze di Raffaello (Raffaello's Rooms) and the Sistine Chapel – can be Museo e Real Bosco Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice Museo Egizio, Turin admired thanks to 360-degree virtual tours. di Capodimonte The tours are available online on the official NAPLES website and also enable visitors to enjoy a Thanks to the collaboration between is still active. Daily at 5pm artists, designers close-up view of the thousands of works MuseoCity and Google Arts&Culture, and architects can be seen and heard of art part of the Popes' collection gathered the cultural and artistic gems of the live on the official Instagram account through the centuries. Videos and other Capodimonte Museum near Naples can (@triennalemilano). Moreover, the official multimedia contents can be discovered be admired online straight from home. PERSONAL STORIES. Drawing website enables visitors to enjoy interviews, on the official YouTube channel. The online Google Art&Culture platform inspiration from Giovanni Boccaccio's podcasts and highlights on the world of art gathers over 536 works of art hosted in “The Decameron”, about a group of and culture, as well as videos and images >> Check the online activities at the museum and on its adjacent park. young people who stayed outside from the historical archives of the Triennale. www.museivaticani.va Over 203 paintings can be seen and Florence for ten days to escape the Other online activities are held on the official analysed close-up thanks to the Art Black Plague in 1348 and took turns Facebook and YouTube accounts. Peggy Guggenheim Camera technology, while the special in telling stories to kill the time, >> Check the online activities at Collection Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy Triennale Milano has invited artists, www.triennale.org VENICE 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the designers, architects, intellectuals, musicians, singers, writers, directors The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues masterpieces hosted in the museum and in and journalists to "inhabit" Triennale its educational mission with weekly e-news the alleys of the Real Bosco. Museo Egizio Milano’s empty spaces in order to TURIN and social media programs that include >> Check the online collections at

CBLUE PLANET STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM The Vatican Museums, Rome www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it develop a personal story. © The second largest Egyptian Museum in innovative content designed to share the world after the one in Cairo, the Museo launched from 1993 up to our days become Egizio in Turin can be enjoyed thanks to the protagonists of an ideal dialogue of art special guided tours. Led by the museum's thanks to images, videos, texts and extracts director – Mr. Christian Greco – and available from catalogues. Conversely, the Inner Views Live streamings for free on the official Youtube account, the initiative has been created to substitute a Virtually strolling through gardens, 8-minute tours help visitors discover insightful real visit to the spaces of the Fondazione discovering historical dwellings highlights on the featured findings. Other and to enable visitors to discover the three and their precious objects is now multimedia contents can be found on the featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, possibile thanks to FAI – Fondo official Instagram account (@museoegizio). Ambiente Italiano. The Italian “Storytelling” and “K” – thanks to an online >> Check the online activities at National Trust has indeed powered learning method based on interviews, museoegizio.it its brad-new #Italiamimanchi online images, videos and focus on the featured project enabling visitors to enjoy masterpieces. A more complete vision of some of its most widely-appreciated art is provided by the Outer Views section, Galleria degli Uffizi properties thanks to live streamings focusing on the contribution of works of art FLORENCE from the Fondazione Prada on loan to other on the official FAI account on The MuseoCity association, together with important Italian and foreign institutions. Facebook, Instagram and on the Google Arts&Culture has introduced a >> Check the online collection at official YouTube channel. new way of visiting the precious museum in www.fondazioneprada.org Florence and its sections thanks to a selection >> Read more at of high-resolution images of the featured https://www.wheremilan.com/news/ Triennale Milano works, which include masterpieces by great italiamimanchi-online-tours-fai/ MILAN Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Though Milan's most known design museum Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo is closed, its Triennale Decameron program Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence

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factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the 17 10 10 13 wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of LUCA SANTILLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © © © Cinema. 11

15 15 11 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by MICHELE D'OTTAVIO

© the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. 5 An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant-garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ANDREA GUERMANI CKTRAVELLING/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ©

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE MOLE ANTONELLIANA artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future VIA PO PROMENADE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean- name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th purchased by the municipality who decided to François Champollion once said: ‘the road to France, who took up residence here in 1600. The magnificent residence, distinguished by the via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo make it a monument to Italian unification. Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is remains of its original 18th century absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its spectacular. 4 decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the construction it was the highest brick building in MUSEI REALI gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now PARCO DEL VALENTINO circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and which connects it to the square of the church of Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host squat square base topped by a large dome with owned by the Italian government. The museum Located on the banks of the Po River, and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 observation platform either by elevator or on sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, popular park. Its interior houses numerous TEATRO REGIO foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a The Regio is one of the most important Italian PIAZZA SAN CARLO PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the theatres on the European scene, offering an Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km marking the beginning of a major urban circuit of the Royal Residences action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was commissioned by Marie Christine of France from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, MUSEO EGIZIO transformation and the enrichment of the of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and was designed by Filippo Juvarra and in true Parisian style with seemingly endless Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is dynastic collections, which now include artifacts Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an celebrations and events. At the beginning of the the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took the second in terms of the value and quality of VILLA DELLA REGINA Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during PALAZZO MADAMA The summer country residence of the House of building that still remains is its façade, now a became the headquarters of the Furniture Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, LINGOTTO Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer always been a reference point in the city, from century as a court vineyard. It became known as named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is This complex of buildings built in 1916, based Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 Roman times to 1848, when it became the Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when by Umberto Mastroianni. 7 on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT world heritage site. 15

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1512 3 13 © MARCOCIANNAREL/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ALIAKSANDR ANTANOVICH/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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DUOMO 1 and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old one of the most important cultural centres in BRERA DISTRICT 8 ago to ferry people and merchandise to districts. The heart of the area is the large Among one of the most important Gothic and young alike. Map E4 the city, hosting exhibitions of international This is an artsy neighbourhood which really Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by raised square dedicated to architect and buildings in the world, the church constructed renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on over a period of 450 years is the symbol of CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s Brera is one of the most important museums with trendy dining and nightlife spots. you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most One of the most famous attractions in the square. Map F5 in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a Map E6 the new Biblioteca degli Alberi.the new BAM- majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da wealth of exceptionally good Italian and Biblioteca degli Alberi. Map S2 Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting PIAZZA SCALA 6 foreign masterpieces. Map F3 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 representing the scene of the last supper The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala. AMBROSIANA 9 largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Since 1923 this is an international institution Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using In the center of the square is the monument The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite Europe. Off Map which organises exhibitions and events about housing luxury cafés and famous designer a technique that was chemically imperfect dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 works of art from the 15th through 17th arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a and by the early 16th century it has started centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on SANT’AMBROGIO 12 photography and theatre. Map D3 beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 to flake and decay, resulting in numerous MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it 15 restorations. Map D4 Milan is known as one of the the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where CIMITERO MONUMENTALE CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 shopping capitals of the world and via Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the martyrs had been buried. Map E5 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was PALAZZO REALE 5 Montenapoleone, together with the Golden best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now Formerly the residence of all those who Quad, is entirely given over to luxury PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 society, and on the other to works of art simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal shopping. Here the most important fashion NAVIGLI 10 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two by famous sculptors of various eras. It houses a number of interesting museums House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola Map E1

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SEE MAP Top in Venice PAGE 48 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE 1 11 6 4 This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10

LIDO DI VENEZIA 4KCLIPS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ALEXANTON / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© © The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing 1513 3 the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11

THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings

OLGA GAVRILOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of © © Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO CANAL GRANDE name derives are not those of lovers, but those pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO This is the most important catholic church in Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were to facilitate access to the popular Rialto A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps THE ISLANDS the city. The original church dates back to street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is from Campo San Manin: a combination of Although the whole of Venice lies on an before the year 1000, while its famous waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 lined on both sides by shops. It includes as Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of generally means a half-day cruise on a boat and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. hotels and other public buildings, it offers a TEATRO LA FENICE history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Inside, a triumphant array of domes and journey back into history, evoking the pomp Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored spectacular when seen from the water, perforated like lace. The architectural beauty Burano, three charming, small islands, rich transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. to its former splendour (the last time was perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 of the stairwell, combined with the view that in history and tradition. Murano is famous numerous other treasures. 1 Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well throughout the world for its hand-blown where the Grand Canal empties into the been Venice's principal stage for world-class GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA worth a visit. 8 glass (artisanal workshops still display PALAZZO DUCALE lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its They host the most important collection of glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository harbour stands at an important point. Today high point came in the 19th century when it Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE of the lagoon, once a thriving town with of innumerable art treasures, it features a it hosts important collective or monographic hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can DI SAN ROCCO 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island number of different and intricate architectural exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, A Renaissance complex consisting of a church with only 17 permanent residents and two and ornamental details, dating from the 9th Collection. 3 associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of medieval churches that speak poignantly century. Formerly the residence and also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 and Tiepolo and works by several important devotion to San Rocco who was called upon of past glories. Burano is one of the most government centre of the Doge sit not only PONTE DEI SOSPIRI landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto to protect the plague-stricken population of photographed sights in the world, thanks houses temporary exhibitions but can also be A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di PONTE DI RIALTO and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting Venice during the 15th century. The interiors to colourful houses reflected in its canals. visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale This is the oldest and most beautiful of the these works occupies the ancient church of are filled with numerous treasures, including It is also famous for its artisanal lace work access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Santa Maria della Carità and a complex an impressive number of works by Tintoretto and a particular kind of biscuit, which also by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its Originally built during medieval times as a designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7 as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9 resembles lace. 13

12 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 13 [ ITALIAN GRAND TOUR ]

SEE MAP Top in Florence PAGE 50 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE 1 4 2 5 The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10

MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by 6 3 8 13 Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11

SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12 SHUTTERSTOCK SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, PHOTOS © the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, DUOMO AND CUPOLA CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the of statues of Renaissance origin, representing fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used The symbol of wealth and power, the building Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 in Florence was the largest Christian church Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main one of the most important sculptural cycles in the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. was inhabited by the Medici, then by the in the world. Today the religious building, the components of the complex of Santa Maria the world. The most famous is certainly At the end of the 16th century, however, Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, SANTO SPIRITO official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas when it became the “noble” zone of the city, by the Savoy family. The original architecture A point of reference of the Augustinian order. Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, the original is conserved in the Galleria the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the The church has given its name to the entire dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by dell’Accademia). 4 and they have been there uninterruptedly surname of its first owner. The building is located surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, to this day. 6 Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Gardens are one of the most important examples the church was the last great project by Filippo is a symbol known all over the world. 1 of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3 One of the most famous museums in the world CORRIDOIO VASARIANO of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 Brunelleschi. 14 on account of its extraordinary collections of The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway BATTISTERO PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA ancient sculptures and paintings (from the connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO SAN LORENZO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is AND PALAZZO VECCHIO Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to This is the most famous and appreciated One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, characterised by an octagonal plan, lined This is the central square of Florence, the seat occupies the first and second floors of the large which is at the beginning of the second panoramic point in Florence, with its views according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, with a dome of eight segments, covered by of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing building erected between 1560 and 1580 corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches seen all over the world in million of postcards the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, and reproductions. The design of the square Its current appearance, however, is the result of with white marble from Carrara and green Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital the last major reconstruction work that took marble from Prato, characteristics of the Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della PONTE VECCHIO 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle The official date of foundation of the current Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Medici and under the direction of the great period. 2 Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire 1000 paintings. 7 Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9 architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15

14 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 15 [ ITALIAN GRAND TOUR ]

Top in Rome SEE MAP PAGE 52

1 2 9

3 4 6 0 13

COLOSSEUM 1 the Four Rivers, which encompasses with the imperious statue of Oceano many more. The Sistine Chapel by Passetto, a passageway used to be a summit of the Campidoglio is located The Colosseum is the indestructible an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of dominating the scene. Make sure to toss Michelangelo is regarded as one of secret escape for the popes. the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, symbol of the Eternal City and the four river gods. Other two magnificent a coin or two into its famous waters to the major artistic accomplishments of Map C2/3 reachable by a steep staircase counting largest amphitheatre ever built. It was fountains decorate the piazza: the assure your return to Rome. Map E3 human civilization. Map B2 MOUTH OF TRUTH 0 124 steps. Map D4 used for gladiatorial contests and public fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6 PANTHEON 8 It is a marble mask which stands PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 12 spectacles such as mock sea battles, of the Neptune. Map D3 The greatest church in the world with art The city only architecturally intact against the left wall of Santa Maria in It is an enormous square architecturally wild animal hunts, executions, and PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4 masterpieces including Michelangelo’s monument from classical times, Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector superb and perfectly symmetrical, reenactments of famous battles. The most famous staircase in the world, Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC from another time, it attracts dominated by an Egyptian obelisk Map F4 with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior thousands of visitors who audaciously and enriched by important churches ROMAN FORUM 2 Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of dome dominates the grandiose scene, measures 43.4 m in width and height. stick their hand in the mouth. such as the church of Santa Maria del The heart of Ancient Rome. See the the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the Light and air (and even rain) enter According to legend, a liar who puts Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, Monti church at the very top. At its feet solemn entrance to the Vatican and the through the opening at the top his hand in the mouth will have it Caravaggio and Pinturicchio. the House of the Vestal Virgins, and is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia Christendom. Map B3 through which the sky pervade the bitten off. Map D5 Map D1 by Bernini from which begins Via temple. Map D3 more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7 CAPITOLINE HILL ! VILLA BORGHESE 13 Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Condotti, the most exclusive shopping CASTEL SANT’ANGELO One of the seven hills of Rome, The most important museum of Rome 9 The most celebrated and easily accessible Map E/F4/5 street in Rome. Map E2 Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, boasting a piazza, designed by with an incomparable collection villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill. TREVI FOUNTAIN transformed into a majestic fortress Michelangelo with a bronze copy PIAZZA NAVONA 3 5 of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, Take a walk through its intricate gardens centuries later, now a museum. It is of the equestrian statue of Marcus One of the most beautiful squares in Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, Renaissance, and baroque art; works or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del joined to the Vatican by the famous Aurelius in the middle. On the highest Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of celebrating the triumph of waters by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and Lago. Map D1

16 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

VENINI ▶ The “Fazzoletto” collection in handcrafted opaline blown glass was designed by artist Fulvio Bianconi GIFT in 1948 and enhanced over the years thanks to the contribution of other famous artists. Venini’s works of art are among the precious offerings sold GUIDE by Rocca 1794, the Italian chain of luxury jewelry and watches. www.venini.com We’ve compiled a short www.rocca1794.com guide offering gift ideas: a great opportunity to spend some pleasant moments ◄ TIFFANY & CO. browsing the boutiques These bar accessories are characterized by a geometric in the centre of Turin, style that lends a modern edge while enjoying the discreet, to home designs: from the elegant charm of the ‘Highball Diamond Point’ glasses featuring a textured pattern at Piedmontese capital. the base, to a tray with a “Makers” cocktail jigger and ice tongs, each element from Tiffany’s silverware workshop is an ode to elegance. www.tiffany.it

LA VIA DEL TÈ ▶ Product quality and refinement in packaging: the brand offers customers a sensory journey into the world of premium brews including single-origin leaf teas, flavored blends, fruit infusions and herbal teas HERMÈS ▲ as well as La Via del Tè product lines. The Hermès table is distinguished by Pictured here, the new “Rajasthan” sophisticated porcelain. This “Voyage en variety, a sumptuous blend of black Ikat” tall cup and saucer is inspired by Ikat, a tea and spices, mixed according to weaving and dyeing technique that originated the traditional recipe of Chai, India’s in Asia. More than twenty colours, centred on national beverage. www.laviadelte.it ▼ CULTI MILANO sapphire, ruby and emerald, are enhanced by “Scented Granules” is a new 24-carat matte gold that come to life in designs way of perfuming the space woven “thread by thread”. www.hermes.com that adds a decorative touch to every home. With Supreme Amber, Aramara, Mareminerale, Tessuto or Thé fragrances, the granules can be dosed at will, ◄ ALESSI Among the new proposals to personalize the scent and from the Italian brand in its modulate its intensity. path of research towards new www.culti.com interpretations of modernity is this “Mattina” bread box, conceived by Swiss studio BIG- GAME. It is available as a multi- purpose object complemented by a bamboo cutting board that acts as both a lid and a tray. www.alessi.com

18 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 19 WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER The Regge Sabaude

In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testify to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO

he royal residences are easily the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for accessible by bus or car from Turin, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo long hunting expeditions in the company of T and are among some of the best- Juvarra, who designed many of its most members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi preserved examples of 17th and 18th beautiful and widely photographed spaces, was often chosen by members of the century European architecture. They are a including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Savoy household for celebrations and living testimony to the prestige of the local Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century dynastic weddings. monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host Margherita of Savoy took up permanent Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in exhibitions and events. residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became Town), the favourite city-based residences Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia the headquarters of the Furniture of duchesses and princesses, and the installations enable visitors to reconstruct Museum, and a space for events fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge the history of court life, while the apartments and concerts. Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and In addition to its original furnishings and © Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the paintings, the museum hosts several into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged lodges and country residences, embellished adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for masterpieces of cabinetry. with the addition of a wing known as with gardens that reflect the sophistication of public viewing, as is the room hosting the The lodge’s beautifully manicured French the Manica Lunga, with the ducal courtly life. collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of gardens and internal spaces are open for picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are the palace, above the monumental corridor public viewing, while its historic park, a part now the headquarters of a Museum of REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning of the hunting reserve, is closed to the Contemporary Art, which also hosts Located inside the Park of La Mandria, diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the public. www.ordinemauriziano.it temporary exhibitions. in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s The courtyard of the castle is also home the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred complex built in the mid-17th century as a Established as a military fortress in 1247, the restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the glorious views across the countryside as well II. Its present-day appearance is the result Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, Savoy duchy. as the surrounding castle. of work by several prominent architects of and is only 10km as the crow flies from During the 17th century, it was converted www.castellodirivoli.org

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale © Chapel of Saint Hubert Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga) Castello di Rivoli OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

20 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN CLOTHING that’s excellent value for money. W The Guidelines www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon M H O 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * E MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold MEN & WOMEN R . C E R Stazione Porta Nuova - Via Nizza. T E at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the R A V E L Antonioli coordinates on the street map (pages 42-43). Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 5622017. Map E6 This multi-brand boutique for men and women

in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s Caramello SHOPPING main squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of Located in the centre of Turin, this large showroom This directory, grouped by category, is a list of unconventional, prestigious designer labels including offers a wide selection of men and women’s fashions. establishments recommended by the editors of Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Anne Demeulemeester, The assortment ranges from Elisabetta Franchi’s Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Maison Margiela and Gareth Pugh. The choice of feminine, contemporary collections to sartorial men’s Based on statistical evidence, the most popular designer labels and the store’s interior decor are a brand Tagliatore, from Dondup, the queen of Made- luxury brands are grouped under the separate reflection of Claudio Antonioli’s personal style. His in-Italy denim, to Patrizia Pepe and Manuel Ritz. category “Top Brands”, which be found on page philosophy is based on blending contemporary taste Caramello also has an outlet in the Crocetta district, 24. Several unusual shops, stocking items and with alternative solutions in a practical manner. www. showcasing last season’s collections at affordable rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific antonioli.eu. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat prices. caramellostore.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; product categories, are listed under “Passion 11am-7.30pm. Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 19. Tues-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping T: 011 883253. Corso G. Ferraris, 2. T: 011 5175090. Map D3 sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am Map G5 to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the Kristina Ti traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Boggi Milano The standalone store of Torinese brand Kristina Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research offers romantic, highly feminine collections designed on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product by Cristina Tardito. At this warm, welcoming space, Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / Turin’s temple of tea €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. Full-on spring shopping at La Via del Tè has been synonymous with premium-quality teas, fruit infusions and blends permeated with the ENTERTAINMENT aromas of far-off lands, for more than 50 years. A treat, in all its aspects, for tea aficionadios By Giulia Minero Several venues offering food are included in this Vicolungo The Style Outlets section. These are considered as meeting places Spring has arrived at Vicolungo The Style Outlets! The time has come to wear lighter, brighter rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain fabrics and refresh your wardrobe with a spring update. Boasting 150 boutiques and more he story of La Via del Tè began in see, smell and select the infusion that best >> Via Carlo Alberto, 1/I our decision to list them here rather than under than 300 Italian and international brands, the centre offers the ideal mixture of style, quality “Dining”. Florence in 1961, when young Alfredo suits them. Here, amidst wood furnishings T: 011 837017. Map G4 and value-for-money, with year-round discounts of from 30 to 70% off the retail price. All

T Carrai travelled to China for the first and shelves, customers can choose from www.laviadelte.it SIGHTSEEING the best spring-summer collections are available at the centre. Sports enthusiasts who want time to deepen his knowledge of tea, the among over 250 products including Oolong, Several places like the Musei Reali or the to take advantage of late season skiing will find a selection of several of the best-known sports second most widely drunk beverage in white and whole leaf green teas from China Museo Egizio are symbols of Turin, hence our brands at Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Among these, standouts include Colmar, The North decision to describe them in special boxes. the world, and to introduce its culture and and Japan, plus other precious varieties from Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Odlo and Under Armour. The information provided on museums and consumption to Italy. More than 50 years India, Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Africa, scented monuments is verified as meticulously as Located just 40 minutes from Turin, the centre is easily accessible by car (A4 Milano-Torino later, the company is still helmed with the blends, fruit infusions and herbal teas. The possible. However, data such as telephone motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). Vicolungo The Style Outlets is connected to the city same passion by the Carrai family, boasting product range also includes classic tins, numbers, opening hours, prices and the centre via a convenient shuttle service that departs on Saturdays and Sundays at 10am from six mono-brand boutiques, including one transparent fabric or cotton muslin tea bags, accessibility of sites are all subject to change, Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova railway station. The centre offers numerous on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration located in the shadow of the Mole, where gift boxes and tea-flavoured delicacies, as services, including tax-free shopping, free Wi-Fi, a book sharing space, a designated pet area, work, museum loans or changes customers can immerse themselves in the well as a wide selection of teapots, cups and of management. Ask your concierge. an indoor play area and a nursery service. For a relaxing end to your day’s shopping, visit one magical world of tea. The Torinese concept accessories in cast-iron, glass and porcelain of the many bars and restaurants where you can sample the finest dishes of traditional Italian All details are correct at the time of going to store, which is situated in the heart of the city, from far-off countries. Connoisseurs or press but several details can change: ask your cuisine. By presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which revolves around an old-world “aromateque”, customers who want to try new blends can concierge to double-check all information. entitles you to an additional discount of 10% on the outlet price of participating stores. where glass jars containing a variety of teas enjoy a regenerating cup of welcome tea from For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it from all over the world allow customers to a samovar on a side counter.

22 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 23 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] SHOPPING

located just a stone’s throw from piazza Castello, Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection of you’ll find clothing for free spirited, independent coveted French and Japanese brands, by designers Top Brands women, who are not prepared to sacrifice a touch like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss and Jamin of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon Puech, and also showcases the creations of emerging 3.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via brands. Amidst fashion, accessories, bijoux, Tax Free GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am- ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4 perfumes and cosmetics, this must-visit boutique A stroll through the streets exudes an atmosphere of innovative taste, relaxed 7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 SO San Lorenzo Refund Guide Map F4 19886532. Map F3 elegance and low-key femininity. www.verdelilla.it. of the centre, amidst elegant An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought- Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Re Umberto, 27. after style, this stand-alone store offers a selection royal porticoes (that extend T: 011 5172701. Map D6 1. value added tax HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— of established and emerging brands including VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a on goods for 18km across the city), and 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am- Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and and services, and is part of the European Union’s squares embellished with 011 546971. Map F4 7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5 Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware DEPARTMENT STORE value added tax system. department features furnishing fabrics, unique 2. Rinascente In some cases, travellers may be granted a sumptuous architecture, is a design pieces and a careful selection of tableware ITALIA INDEPENDENT— SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo.it. unique opportunity to soak www.italiaindependent.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: 011 is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange. supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; This department store offers the best in fashion for 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: up the city’s authentic charm. 7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso men, women and children, alongside a selection non EU resident Map G5 • you are a - ; It’s also a great destination for Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. Racconigi, 32 bis. T: 011 3852651. Off Map of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by • the goods purchased are intended for personal or shopping enthusiasts. In the Top Ten the best Italian and international brands. At its food Map F5 family use only and are carried in your luggage; WOLFORD—www.wolford.it Located in the highly central via Soleri, this market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy heart of the city, often referred • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; two-level space has been, since its inception, a foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious 154,94 Euro (VAT included); to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- Tues-Wed 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; reference point for the city’s elite. Its discreet, international products. Don’t miss the renewed minimalist architectural style is reflected in its floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors invoice the best fashion brands. In 7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. Thus-Sat 10am-7.30pm; • the purchase is certified by an . This invoice meticulous, well-defined choice of brands, (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat particular, the austere and T: 011 19468000. Map F5 Sun 3.30pm-7pm. should include a description of the goods purchased, ranging from the avant-garde to the most 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, your personal information as well as the details of Via A. Doria, 6. prestigious international brands like Comme des 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5 elegant via Roma and the your passport or any other equivalent document; LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com T: 011 531348. Map F5 Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a parallel via Lagrange, do Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. few. Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. San Carlo dal 1973 • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the T: 011 5620678. Map E5 Via Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5 Having abandoned its former vocation for big- third month after the month that you bought them; justice to the exquisite Italian name fashion brands, this multi-functional concept Verdelilla • several specific customs formalities are and international fashions on LUISA SPAGNOLI—www.luisaspagnoli.it store focuses on collections based on a ‘no brand’ Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re complied with; display. Alternately, a reference Open Mon 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer point for young, trendy Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am- within four months after the purchase was made. 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 61. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must fashion is via Garibaldi – one T: 011 547136. Map F4 be shown at the customs exit point when leaving of the longest pedestrian • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm- streets in Europe – which into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs 7pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 9bis. T: 011 543447. runs from Piazza Castello to BEFORE checking in). Map F3 Piazza Statuto. The ideal place 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice for lovers of antiques and MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com , regularly endorsed by the Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice vintage items is via Po, Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 must be returned within four months from the date which links Piazza Castello when the document was issued. to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax ASPESI— www.aspesi.com Open Mon T: 011 541276. Map F4 Free” sign in its window). 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577. MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— the passenger from having to return the invoice to www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. major international airports or main border crossings. T: 011 4407207. Map F4 T: 011 4782004. Map F4 Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: the payment of a small administrative sum which T: 011 5613226. Map F4 011 5618744 Map F4 directly deducted A new glass “jewel” by Damiani is from the amount of VAT The Damiani Group recently became the sole owner of Venini, the historic Venetian refunded to the traveller. CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com artistic glass brand founded in 1921, thanks to the acquisition of the final block of shares. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.Via Damiani, the Italian luxury jewelry brand is distinguished by and embodies the same values within a reasonable period of time, he or she T: 011 5066699. Map F4 Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5 of excellence, creativity and Made in Italy craftsmanship as the renowned glassmaker. should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat Venini is one of the prestigious brands that are offered by Rocca 1794, the only Italian chain 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via BRUNELLO CUCINELLI’s spring/summer 2020 of high-end jewelry and watches, epitomizing a world of luxury and exclusivity, in which the directly by customs offices. 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. Map F4 collection draws inspiration from light, nature and the value of every object is the result of passion, dedication and know-how. • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. delicate shades of light neutrals. Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. www.rocca1794.com Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund T. 011 5625977. Map F4

24 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25 BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

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VIA EXILLES VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO VIA PERUGIA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI P A VDI O V A V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA VIA BALME VIA BORGO DORA approach, giving way to a selected assortment of including Rolex, Patek Philippe,VIA VITTORIOJaeger-LeCoultre, ANDREIS Lavazza Nuvola Parco Colletta VIA FIANO MARIA VIA INVORIO VIA AMEDEO P VIA SACCARELLI

V I A L E C E R T O S A VIALE CERTOSA DOMODOSSOLA VIA AUSILIATRICE PASSION SHOPPING Chiesa VIA VINCENZO MARIA MIGLIET TI creations by emerging designers. Besides perfumes, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Panerai, V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA VIA S. GIUSEPPE VIA SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI C O RSO VE RO N A VIA NETRO Nostra Signora VIA LUDOVICOBELLARDI EYRON essences, accessories, artisanal jewelry from British, IWC, Hublot, Baume&Mercier, Longines and GIAMPIETRO del Suragio Culti House Torino VIA GIACOMO MEDICI Piccola Casa della Chiesa di S. Gioachino VIA BOLOGNA Fashion outlets CHIRONI Japanese and American designers, the store features Montblanc, Maison Astrua 1860 stocks Murano Chiesa VIA NICOLA FABRIZI Divina Provvidenza At this small, charming boutique decorated in L U N G O D O R A FR I E N Z E VIA GIACOMO MEDICI VIA BURONZO PIAZZA BENEDETTO Cottolengo VIA VITTORIO ASINARI DI BERNEZZO Madonna PIAZZA VIA CARLO TENIVELLI a selection of apparel, homeware and hand-crafted glass by Venini, creations by Tudor, luxury VIA BORGOMANERO VIA DELLA shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture Divina Provvidenza VIA V.ASINARI DI BERNEZZO VIA ROASIO RISORGIMENTO MIGLIARA V I A A N C O N A E H C R A M O S R O C VIA GIOVANNI Japanese items. FORCA accessories, Edward Green footwear, Amouage Chiesa COTTOLENGO of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a SA PI AV I PARELLA VIA ASCANIO SOBRERO VIA MODENA A I R A P I R A R OD VIA SOSTEGNO Immacolata Concezione CORSO PRINCIPEA terrace withODDONE a bar welcomes customers wanting fragrances and Pasotti umbrellas. Open Mon V I A S . C H I A R A mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space VIA San Donato VIA SAN DONATO Chiesa C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A A Located in Piedmont, just a short distance Chiesa Parr. S. Anna AMEDEO PEYRON VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Chiesa Evangelica Valdese to sip a cocktail or choose their favourite dish 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. houses all the brand’s collections of room and home Sacra Famiglia Cimitero Monumentale di Torino VIA BIANZÈ from the small menu that changes weekly.www. www.astrua.com. Via Cesare Battisti, 15 corner of CORSO GIULIO CESAREPRIOCC from Turin, don’t miss a trip to these shopping PIAZZA VIA L. ARIOSTO fragrances including diffusers,. room sprays, candles, VIA CARLO MICHELE BUSCALIONI

VIA GIACINTO COLLEGNO GIACINTO VIA . D V I A G I A C I N T O P A C H I O T T I VIA STEFANO CLEMENTE PEYRON L U C O RNSO O V A RA sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tue-Sat Piazza Carlo Alberto. T: 011 5613873. C VIA G. MAMELIcosmetics and scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open V I A F O G G I A VIA RAFFAELLO MORGHEN RAFFAELLO VIA IA V I A G I A C I N T O P A C H I O T T I N GD O O SAR V destinations offering year-round discounts. P O V I A V I T T O R I O S A S S I 10.30am-7pm. VPiazza I A S A N TA C H ISan A R Carlo, 161. Map F4 V VIA ROSOLINO PILO CORSO PRINCIPE EUGENIO VIA C. CAGLIERO Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, LUGANO VIA GIUSEPPE TALUCCHI MICHELESCHINA VIA Anagrafe CORSO SVIZZERA VIA GIACOMO MEDICI VIA PRINCIPI D'ACAJA VIA PARMA VIA ROSOLINO PILO VIA ROSTA T: 011 5114111. Map F4 CORSO PALERMO VIA DOMODOSSOLA VIA LARGO VIA CARLO CAPELLI V I A C A R L O I G N A Z I O G I U L I O 3. T: 011 0361363. MENDRISIO VIA SAN DOMENICO A CIBRARIO Rocca 1794 Centro Palatino Parco della Tesoriera PIEDICAVALLO VIA Ex Ospedale San Luigi Map F4 BRESCIA VIA SOSTEGNO VIA MATTEUCCI Pala Fuksas VIA MANTOVA VE RO NC OA RSO BERGAMO VIA SALBERTRAND VIA GIANFRANCESCO RE CORSO LECCE VIA DEL CARMI Master jewelers and VIA PIETRO PIFFETTI ROLEX RETAILER VIA A. MANZONI JEWELLERY & V I A S A N Vicolungo La Belle Histoire O N A NOVARA Chiesa Cristiana watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates Mercato CORSO XI FEBBRAIO PIAZZA TA Alimentare The Style Outlets TRIESTE V I A V A L G I O I E V I A V A L G I O I E Evangelica Pentecostale C H I A VIA GIAN DORA RIPARIA V I A V A L G I O I E STATUTO WATCHESNE among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches.PIAZZA Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, MILANO CORSO MONTE GRAPPA VIA FELICE CORDERO DI PAMPARATO R A Mercato FRANC NA ? VIA DIGIONE PIAZZA VIA SAN DOMENICO PIAZZA DELLA VIA EXILLES V I A Rocca B L I G NY pays homage to fine watchmakingIttico with a this retrò-style atelier is a go-toESCO FIOCHETTO destination for VIA CARLO ALLIONI Santuario VIA BRIONE della Consolata VIA BONELLIMANUELE REPUBBLICA CORSO REGIOMESSI PARCO CAD O SRE LUNGO DORA FIRENZE VIA BORGOSESIA Astrua 1860 VIA ALPIGNANO CORSO VALDACCO Museo dellaselection of the world’s mostFILIBERTO prestigious brands romantics who’ll find themselves surrounded by Torino FANE VIA CAMANDONA BERNINI PIAZZA V I A ? Mercato C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the oldest OR old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furniture and Outlet Village CORSO FRANCIA STATUTO VIA ALBERTO NOTA including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Alimentare CORSO CATANIA ermi PIAZZA Principi dcaa VIA DEL CARMINE Sindone VIA MAGENTA watchmakers in Europe, is located in the heart brocade armchairs. The store offers a selection of SA PI AV I CORSO FRANCIA VIA PIETRO COSSA Blancpain, Bucherer, Lange & Sohne, Longines, Giardino Giuseppe Delno VIA GIOVANNI SOMIS Chiesa di TORINO VIA SOSTEGNO RIVOLI V I A E D M O N D O D E A M I C I S Chiesa La Visitazione CORSO FRANCIA Bernini of Turin, between the First Italian Parliament and Santa Chiara almost exclusively Made-in-Italy garments, with CORSO CADORE PIAZZA Ulysse Nardin, SalviniVIA DELLE and Venini. Rocca is ALESSANDRIA VIA DUCHESSA JOLANDA CORSO SAN MARTINO PIAZZETTA CORSO TELESIO VIA MILLAURES Chiesa di NZE the National Library. A key visitor attraction at the DELLA the exception of French brand Lilith, Spanish brand PIACENZA RE Torino Outlet Village Vicolungo The Style Outlets VIA GRAZIA DELEDDA DEL acknowledgedVIA DELLA VISITAZIONE CONSOLATA Sant’Agostino for its longstandingVIA S. CHIARA tradition of to I ? acconigi r LUNGO AGLIARI VIA GIACOMO LEOPARDI CORSO FRANCIA entrance to the boutique is an elevator operated BOLOGNA MAR CORSO MARCHE VIA LUDOVICO BELLARDI MONASTERO VIA ABATE VASSALLI VIA BOUCHERON San Giovanni Hoss Intropia and Japanese brand Takaaki. Other VIA MODENA LUNGO DORA FI ivoli Chiesa del PIAZZAprofessionalismVIA and expert consultancy. LocatedBasilica

VIA ENRICO CIALDINI Battista Umbe Porta Palatina CORSO REGGIO Serravalle Y E R O D I U G A I V SAN VIA ABATE VASSALLI VIA ANT’AGOSTINO Mauriziana ia DORA SIE V? I A C ADRIATICO LUNGO DORA VOGHERA with a visible gear mechanism reminiscentV I A P ICarmine AV E of those Giardino GENOVA Monte rappa VIA DEI QUARTIERI SAVOIA DO er highlights include a collection of strictly Italian-made

A N A I B U R A I V in the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its VIA BORGONE VIA V I A F I L I P P O J U VA R R A DORA RIPARIA VIA TRANA Jan Palach RONDÒ VIA PARMA Designer Outlet VIA CORTE D’ MENICO LUNGO DORA SIENA PIAZZA Parrocchia used in watches. At its historicVIA DELLA CIT store, TADELLAV IA G IU Sboasting E P P E G A R IB A L D I an Chiesa di Gall Museo di Antichità CORSO FRANCIA founder, Alberto Rocca, openedSan his Domenico first boutiqueV I A D E L L A B A S I L I C A footwear and a homeware line. www.labellehistoire.RIVELLA Pozzo trada Maria Regina Parrocchia Mondovicino D R A L U A E B A I V Museo VIA COAZZE innovative, modern concept, Astrua presents its NA MASSAUA VIA FREIDOUR Gesù Nazareno VIA G. L. PASSALACQUA VIA GIOVANNI BERTR at the end ofAPPELLO the 18th century. Tues-Sat 11am- it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; Outlet Village PP C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I delle Missioni V IA A N T O N IO B E R T O L A Area Archeologica RIMINIC O RSOT R TO N A CORSO BELGIO VIA SUSA contemporary jewelry creations, exquisite leather di Arte Orientale M CAD O SRE VIA A. MANZONI Massaua 6pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290. 3.30pm-7.30pm;del Teatro Romano Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. ? The Mall Sanremo CORSO FRANCIA E Chiesa di Marce Giardino ex goods and precious accessories. In addition to San Dalmazzo Via Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199. C O R S O P E S C H IE R A Ex Stazione Porta Susa AN T: 011 5621467/5629260. VIA G.F. BELLEZZA Galleria Sabauda PISA VIA SANT’ANTONINO VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI

Venchi Unica VIA LE VIA CAPRIE CIT TURIN DI RA several of the world’s most coveted watch brands, U ci V I A S A NT’ANTONINO icembre Map H3 C O R FIRENZE VIA VIPACCO VIA VIA DUCHESSA JOLANDA Map F4 V I A M I L A N O Comunali PIAZZA VENTIMIGLIA LUNGO DORACampus SIENA Luigi Einaudi

VIA ANASTASIO GERMONIO ANASTASIO VIA VIA BRUINO LARGO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A Paradiso VIA AURELIO SAFFI O Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista VIA S. GIORGIO CANAVESE GIORGIO S. VIA I I TI RIE VIA LUIGI MARTINI, CORSO INGHILTERRA PIAZZA VIA QUATTRO MARZO C O R S O C E R N A IA VIA PERRON QUATTRO S OS MA N A UO ZR I Chiesa del VIA GOFFREDO CASALIS V I A F I D I A Municipio di Torino Santissimo CORSO FRANCIA V I A M A T T I E ARBARELLO V I A O R O PA

VIA EUSEBIO GARIZIO Nome Di Gesù MAR LIGURE VIA POZZO STRADA MARZO V IA G IO V A N N I F A T T O R I Giardino V I Giardini Reali Superiori V I A FA B R Chiesa A G IU S E P P E B A R B A R O U X Bambini di Beslan CORSO PALESTRO VIA ASSAROTTI LIVORNO ANCONA della VIA STAMPATORI Basilica Corpus Domini Y N G I L B A I V COLLEGNO VIA VILLAR FOCCHIARDO VIA GIACINTOVIA AVIGLIANA COLLEGNO Palazzo SIENA VIA ANTONIO FONTANESI Parrocchia Misericordia Chiablese V I A S A N TA G I U L I A C O RFCSO NA RILG OU I VIA Santa Barbara Chiesa dei Santi Martiri Palazzo VIA VAL LAGARINA BARDONECCHIA RUFFINI LuxuryVergine e Martire shopping V IA G IU S E P P E G A R IB A L D I Serravalle Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village VIA TRECATE V I A Stazione Reale di Torino S. Rocco O CORSO BELGIO VIA GIOVANNI CARLO CAVALLI VIA SUSA I LUNGO PO ANTONELLI VIA THURES V I A BARDONECCHIA Porta V IA A N T O N IO B E R T O L A MASO BRUTA NT A E V I Parrocchia Santuario di G VIA ABATE PIETRO CHANOUX VIA BARDONECCHIA CORSO BOLZANO Real Chiesa di San Lorenzo PERUGIA Parrocchia F E R R A R I S Santa Maria G VANCHIGLIETTA San Pellegrino Laziosi VIA XX SETTEMBRE LARGO VANCHIGLIA Nostra Signora del Susa di Piazza A TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO SERRAVALLE MONDOVICINO San Leonardo Murialdo BARDONECCHIA Palazzo VIA MILANO Chiesa SS. Trinita M MONTEBELLO V I A A N A I B U R A I V della V I A O R O PA Sacro Cuore di Gesù Parrocchia S. Rosa Da Lima CORSO BOLZANO Chiesa di O VIA VANDALINO Chiesa Luce M ON E L O S S U B A I V Caserma San Francesco D'Assisi ANTI R I With over 90 stores of top Italian THE STYLE OUTLETS DESIGNERVIA DANIELE MANIN OUTLET OUTLET VILLAGE D R A L U A E B A I V P A N O T R O T O S R O C VIA VANDALINO Natività PIAZZA VIA PRINCIPI D'ACAJA Cernaia V IA M O N T E D I P IE T À V I A L E VIA CLAUDIO BEAUMONT VIA F. GUICCIARDINI PIAZZA VIA SAN DALMAZZO di Maria Vergine VIA REVELLO ERC and international brands, as well V IA C E S A R ESituated B A L B O 40 minutes from Located just 90 minutes from Situated one hour from Turin,

VIA CIRENAICA VIA VIA M.SPANZOTTI Giardino Andrea Guglielminetti VIA VANDALINO N A I G R E B L A E T N O M A I V Porta usa VIA SAN TOM CASTELLO V IA G IO V A N N I F A T T O R I ADRIANO V IA S E B A S T IA N O B E A T O V A L F R È Giardino V I A O R O PA VIA GRATTONI Lamarmora as a selection of carefullyV IA S A Nselected TA G IU L IA downtown Turin, this is the ideal Turin, McArthurGlen Serravalle in the province of Cuneo, VIA VANDALINO BORGONE VIA CORSO TRAPANI V I A F R É J U S C O R S O C E R N A IA CORSO CASALE VIA MEDARDO ROSSO Mastio della Cittadella IA G.F. BELLEZZA Palazzo PESCARA V VIALE VITTIME DELLA SHOAH V I A M V I A F I D I A eateries, guest services, and place to spend a stylish day out is the largest Designer Outlet in Mondovicino Outlet Village offers VIA DE SANCTIS VIA MONTEBELLO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA ADAMELLO VIA TRECATE CORSICA V I A F R É J U S Madama Tribunale di Torino V IA G O Z Z I V I A R A I M O N D O M O N T E C U C C O L I Torre Littoria Teatro Regio V I A V amenities forVIA LUIGIfamilies, TARINO this is an where shopping, entertainment Europe. The centre’s beautiful a unique shopping experience, A S I L E A L E C S A N D R I CORSOV I GALILEO VIA PIETRO MICCA Auditorium Rai VIA ANTONIO FONTANESI C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I A G I A N N O N E Chiesa di

VIA ARVIER VIA CASTAGNEVIZZA VIA VALDIERI CORSO VINZAGLIO San Tommaso elegant, relaxing place. Open daily, and relaxation combine to setting combines all the appeal of where you can find beautiful VIALE VITTIME DELLA SHOAH Giardino V I A F R É J U S VIA CESANA VIA G.FALCONE V I A E T T O R E D E S O N N A Z V I A A S I A G O Nicola VIA ANTONIO MEUCCI S. Giuseppe 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and public satisfy all requirements. luxury designerROMA brands with the surroundings and appealing Grosa G. B. VIOTTI V IA G IU S E P P E V E R D I VIA CREA VIA FIENZA VIA XX SETTEMBREIA N V O V I A M O R E T T A CORSO INGHILTERRA Galleria holidays 10am-9pm).VIA SANT’OTTAVIO The outletChiesa is di open Santa Giulia 7 days a week beauties of the surrounding area. fashion brands. Open daily, from Grattacielo VIA PETROCCHI V I A O T TA V I O R E V E L V IA C E S A R E B A T T IS T I IA GUASTALLA I H C S E L L E N U R B O S R O C VIA SAGRA S. MICHELE VIA ANTONIO BERTOLAVIA ROMA Subalpina V VIA C VIA LOMBRIASCO PIAZZA VIA LUIGI CAPRIOLO Giardino Caserma Lamarmora V IA S A N T V AI P O Teatro Stabile V IA D E G L IA NE Giardino Intesa Sanpaolo Teatro Carignano • WHERE: located in Settimo VIA MICHELEfrom BUNIVA 10 am to 8 pm. • WHERE: accessible via the A21 10 am to 8 pm. LUNGO PO ANTONELLI PO VIA MILANO PIAZZALE VIA ANASTASIO GERMONIO ANASTASIO VIA VIA CHAMBERY Paradiso CARIGNANO VIA GIOACHINO ROSSINIMole Antonelliana Luigi Chignoli VIA BERTOLETTI MARV IA C E S A R E B A L BTIRRENO O REGINA MADONNA VIA CHAMBERY V I A M O N T E O R T I G A R A A T E R E S A Palazzo Carignano Teatro Gobetti Torinese, just 15 minutes from the • WHERE: take the A4 Torino- and A26 motorways (Novi Ligure • WHERE: take the A6 Torino- VIA SAN TOMMASO Galleria S. Federico VIA DANTE DI NANNI Museo Nazionale del Cinema N A P I O MARGHERITA I I TI RIE VIA VIA CHAMBERY V I A F R A S S I N E T O PIAZZA Chiesa di V IA G IO V A N N I F A T T O R I V I A N I N O B I X I O CORSO BOLZANO Museo Nazionale SOLFERINO Santa Teresa D'Avila centre of Turin, 30 minutes from R Milano motorway and exit at VIA exit). A convenient shuttle bus Savona motorway and exit at VIA MONTE ASOLONE del Risorgimento Italiano T IS T I VIA DONATI V IA S A N TA G IU L IA V I A V I G O N E Museo Egizio PIAZZA NAPOLI CORSO MONTE CUCCO C O R S O P E S C H IE R A Sant’Antonio C O R S O M A T T E O T T I Biblioteca Radio Rai the main citiesPalazzo in Piedmont and 75 Biandrate Vicolungo. A daily shuttle service departs daily (9am to Mondovì. A free shuttle service, CENISIA VIA POLONGHERA CARLO Museo della Radio LIA Ponte Regina Margherita VIA CIRENAICA VIA VIA VITTORI DEL PILONE da Padova Nazionale Nuovo VIA SAN FRANCESCO Chiesa e della Televisione VIA A.AVOGADRO Chiesa di ALBERTO Universitaria C O R Museo del Carcere Le Nuove VIA R. GANDOLFO San Filippo Neri San Francesco minutes from Milan, near the exits service,CHIG departing at 10am from 8.20pm) from the railway stations departing from Turin (Corso V I A F. A Z Z I VIA BARGE VIA SANT’ANTONIO DA PADOVA VIA A. V. PAPACINO O ALFIERI da Paola Dipartimento di Filosoa VIA ONORATO CASTELLINO Parrocchia e Scienze dell'Educazione PIAZZA V IA M A R I A MONTEBELLO from the A4 and A5 motorways,S OS MA N A UO ZR I TurinVAN – Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Vittorio Emanuele II corner of via San Benedetto Abate VIA GIULIA DI BAROLO POZZO STRADA SAN CARLO VI V IA G IU S E P P E V E R D I Parrocchia V I A inzaglio SETTEMBRE the Outlet is easily accessible by front of the Porta Nuova train Scrivia and Novi Ligure. Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning CORSOGesù Adolescente RACCONIGI Chiesa dell’Immacolata A V IT T O R VIA PAOLO BORSELLINO The historic boutique comprises two Concezione V AI P O VIA PEROSA C O R S O A D R IA T IC O A R E H G N O L O P A I V VIA MAGENTA V I A P. B O R S E L L I N O Chiesa della car.Piazzale The Aldo outletMoro provides a daily station) is available from Turin. LUNGO• WHAT: PO NICCOLO’ a go-to MACCHIAVELLI destination to the designated pick-up point floors, four hundred square metres, nine I A V I SS. Annunziata VIA LUIGI FERDINANDO MARSIGLI Chiesa di V I A A P R IN C Santi Angeli Custodi VIA DELL’ARCIVESCOVADO V I A X X N I N O C O VIA EUSEBIO BAVA NE VIA MONTE ORTIGARA V I A S E S T R I E R E V I A I S O N Z O VIA CONFIENZA San Carlo Borromeo shuttle bus service from the • WHAT: More than 300 prestigious featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available. V I A T O C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I brightly-lit shop windows and top name SARDEGNA VIA PERRERO VIA VINCENZO VELA S T A V I A V I G O N E I P E A M E D E O F A N VIA CARDINALE MAURILIO FOSSATI Chiesa di Santa Cristina city centre and a weekly service brands, including Armani, Missoni, designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 PRONDA Ospedale Martini E VIA REVELLO brands, including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, PIAZZA N A P I O VIA DELL’ARSENALE PIAZZA OGR - O cine Grandi Riparazioni CLN V IA G IO V A N N I G IO L IT T I C O RGSO A BTIE V I A A . V O C H I E R I VIA CARLO from the main tourist resortsLIA in Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. VIA VERZUOLO Breitling, Venini, Salvini, Bulgari, Blancpain, VIA CESANA STRADA VICINALE DELLA PRONDA VIA ISSIGLIO Chiesa della EMANUELE II VIA CANDIDO VIBERTI VIA G.DI BAROLO A. Lange & Söhne, Ulysse Nardin, Baume Visitazione VIA GIUSEPPE POMPA Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta.CHIG Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious VIA CARAGLIO VIA SAN QUINTINO CORSO CASALE V I A T O LARGO VITTORIO C O R S O M A T T E O T T I ● Rocca 1794 & Mercier, Longines, Bliss and Tissot. VAN F A N ELLE ROSINE • WHAT: a must for shopping apparel for the whole family, Parco Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designerV AI FG I LED I ME I LTAI R I stores – includingPIAZZA VIA CRIS AV I SA NA MTV I A A RI Z A RLEO VIA LUIGI LEONARDO COLLI VIA MAGENTA EMANUELE II D E V I A O R S I E R A VIA CAMPIGLIONE VIA M. PESCATORE VIA DANTE DI NANNISOL V IA M A R I GUIDO O VIA S. FRANCESCO DA PAOLA V I A VIA SAGRA S. MICHELE VIA SERRANO FERRUCCICORSOFRANCESCO Its spaces, curated down to the last detail, Ignazio a V I A S T E L V I O SAN MASSIMO GOZZANO Chiesa Ortodossa VIA lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top sportswear, homeware and Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti M Aand Adidas, Alviero Martini 1 Classe,

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Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel TRADITIONAL search for premium-quality ingredients with a vaults and open brick walls, hosts more than 300 PIEDMONTESE CUISINE particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables labels. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional www.leviteletonne.com. Via San Francesco da Cannavacciuolo Bistrot charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Map G4 Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award winning accompanied by homemade bread and focacce. Plin & Tajarin Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out tasting experience featuring a combination of 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3 small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the northern and southern flavours. Highlights include staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, Le Vitel Etonné are available with numerous fillings and sauces, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese The standout at this restaurant located in the heart including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great after or as an accompaniment, diners can order (a fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; at its namesake restaurant. Other specialties ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www. include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream. cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm- Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6 of flour, served with an array of seasonal sauces, 10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3 Casa Amelie A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premium- quality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm-10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2 Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm- The triumph of Fassona beef 3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: Catullo, the ideal place There’s a gourmet hamburger joint in Turin that serves certified high-quality Piedmontese Fassona beef. 388 8767003. Map F3 Consorzio A go-to address for dinner and also a mouthwatering aperitivo. By Chiara Zaccarelli In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, for a romantic fish dinner Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes Every day at Catullo, located just a short distance from Parco del Valentino, the carefree, re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in iedmontese Fassona beef is a high- and raised in the region of Piedmont. The of vegetarian options. Must-trys include the Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese welcoming atmosphere of Southern Italy takes centre stage. Inside, in its contemporary quality, exceptionally lean meat that interiors of both branches, one in the via Po Nocciolaburger, featuring Fassona beef beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of dining space where elements in iron, glass and wood interact with brightly-coloured is renowned for its outstanding district, and the other near Porta Palazzo, coated with breadcrumbs and hazelnut grains, Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, garden- ceramics from Ischia, customers can sample a wide selection of antipasti, starters and main P grown vegetables. A harmonious combination courses featuring the best of surf and turf, with a particular focus on fish-based dishes nutritional properties. It’s especially suitable are minimalist, contemporary and have an the Noburger with raw Fassona sausage and that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, of Mediterranean inspiration. The ingredients, selected on a seasonal basis, are used to eat raw, either as a base for tartare or industrial inspiration, with wooden tables Piedmontese Toma, and the Zuccaburger, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced carpaccio specialties, but also when cooked and boiserie, enhanced by touches of red, with Fassona beef, cream of pumpkin and from the best local producers, with a few forays to create pasta specialties ranging from the great classics like “Spaghetti alle vongole” or in the “tagliata” (pan-seared) version or as where the walls are hung with photographs crunchy bacon. In the evening, the locale into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of “Chitarrucce with lobster”, to more creative dishes resulting from the meeting of Northern Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open Mon- succulent hamburger filling. The Fassoneria, of the breeders of the cooperative; as if to say also serves an aperitivo, featuring an array and Southern Italian influences, including “Linguine in Crosta alla Catullo with seafood and Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm- porcini mushrooms” or “Black ravioli with red Mazara del Vallo shrimp and Pachino cherry a national franchise boasting two branches “from the producer to the consumer”. The of international cocktails and an excellent 11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it. in the city, serves some of the best Fassona menu celebrates the famous Piedmontese selection of local wines, accompanied by Via Monte di Pietà, 23. tomatoes”. The restaurant also caters to the tastes of meat lovers with main courses that beef in Turin. The locale’s collaboration breed with hamburgers and other specialties small platters of Fassona-themed snacks T: 011 2767661. Map E3 include more elaborate dishes like “Bison Rib Eye with a reduction of Nebbiolo” and “Ratte potatoes, braised veal cheek with celeriac rice” and mouth-watering grilled meats. Catullo with Compral, an agricultural cooperative highlighting its quality and flavour to and appetizers. È Cucina of breeders in the province of Cuneo, and the maximum. As far as hamburgers are This charming restaurant owned by theatrical also boasts a rich selection of Neapolitan pizzas baked according to tradition in a wood- Coalvi, the Consortium for the protection concerned, the venue offers a choice of >> Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 4. Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly fired oven. Diners in the mood for romance can book a table in the restaurant’s outdoor lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary of Piedmontese beef, guarantees that the twenty options, including several that T: 391 4667238. Map E2 area with windows overlooking the Po river and the illuminated Isabella Bridge, which décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular connects the river’s two banks (www.ristorantecatullo.com). Fassoneria serves premium quality meat, are distinctly regional, some that are more Via San Massimo, 17. T: 011 885543. Map G6 contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The from the Fassona Piedmontese breed, born international and, surprisingly, a selection www.fassoneriatorino.it

28 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 29 DINING DINING

Porto di Savona One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital Pastry Shops of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style Michelin-starred restaurants confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing Eight starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while accessories and walls decorated with period the flavours, traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin. others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name – features classic Piedmont therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although Spazio 7 Casa Vicina it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala CAFFÈ PLATTI Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan midnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5 Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. a social and cultural reference point for Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 Scannabue 20th-century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ the rooms of an old apothecary established in young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and has been run by renowned patissier Guido Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and LIDO VANNUCCHI

T: 011 4546151. cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily © hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. CANNAVACCIUOLO Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. can dine à la carte, or enjoy the restaurant’s GHIGO mention are the locale’s savoury offerings Map E7 BISTROT TORINO T: 011 19506840. tasting menu by chef Marcello Trentini. Just a This historic pastry shop, located just steps which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, Established to offer diners an elegant, unique www.casavicina.com Off Map little further on, in the same street, the chef from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori experience, this restaurant highlights the has opened Casa Mago, a cocktail bar with served with freshly whipped cream and for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it. This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri essence of the famous Neapolitan chef CONDIVIDERE an adjacent pastry shop where you can dine, marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250. della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, Traditional Italian cuisine is re-interpreted enjoy a drink or purchase delicious sweet with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for which sees traditional ingredients from his by Modenese chef Federico Zanasi in a treats. with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional GALLERIA IGINIO MASSARI Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, homeland mixed and matched with those contemporary key, creating haute cuisine that Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. T: 011 8126808. ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a First pastry shop of Iginio Massari, “Best Pastry seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the from Piedmont. The space has been designed can be enjoyed in an informal atmosphere. www.magorabin.com Map H4 generous sprinkling of icing sugar. Chef in the World” at the World Pastry Stars restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering in keeping with the philosophy of Feng Shui. Particular attention is paid to raw materials www.pasticceriaghigo.it 2019 contest. Based on a new formula that is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. and to desserts that are served in a separate SPAZIO 7 Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. visualizes a series of pastry shops that differ chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional from one another, this is a multifunctional specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Map I6 area, aptly named Dulcis in fundo. Here, Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. Open guests can choose from an array of different Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, PASTICCERIA VENIER space. Open throughout the day, it houses and open-plan workshop in the basement 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. CARIGNANO Lavazza coffee blends accompanied by the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral part Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the torino.circololettori.it/servizi/. plus two rooms where you can sample and At the restaurant located inside the Grand single-servings of desserts. of the Foundation. The cuisine offered by centre, is another go-to destination to start (or Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4 Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are Via Bologna, 20A. c/o Nuvola Lavazza Alessandro Mecca, a young Chef who arrived end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for purchase Massari’s sweet treats. Here you can find more tha 12 types of products, ranging inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional T: 011 0897651. here after working at several of Piedmont’s its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass ETHNIC CUISINE cuisine, re-imagined by Milanese Chef www.condividere.com Map H1 most historic restaurants, mirrors the cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with from cakes to fruit jellies, croissants and Hafa Storie Fabrizio Tesse, offering a cuisine rooted in foundation’s concept: young, contemporary foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa bite-sized pastries, plus the signature Dolce A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is Piedmont tradition with a few forays into the DEL CAMBIO and open to innovation. The wine list features powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its Torino, a unique gianduia chocolate plumcake created exclusively to honour the city of Turin. fairly common because the city’s second largest nearby region of Liguria. His menu features Established in 1757, it was among the the classics of Piedmont and its neighboring custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, foreign community is the Moroccan community, Particolar attention is paid to packaging. traditional dishes re-imagined and re-adapted favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count regions in France. and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, in keeping with contemporary techniques of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de Via Modane, 20. di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate www.iginiomassari.it. Piazza C.L.N., 232. the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. T: 011 4249343. and tastes. Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and c/o Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo and two amaretti instead of shortcake. While the Piedmontese offerings are created Via Carlo Alberto, 35. c/o Grand Hotel Sitea the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real T: 011 3797626. by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. T: 011 5170171. Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous traditions, which he reinterprets with a VINTAGE 1997 In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays CASA VICINA creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th As its name suggests, it’s renowned for its lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop the foundations for a harmonious, productive Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth old-world atmosphere. The restaurant’s that turns out approximately 20 different cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm- restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who a visit. culinary offerings are also true to tradition. 12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled Galleria Massari Iginio for five generations have embraced the Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. Rather than bold, creative pairings, you’ll find with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. T: 011 region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and www.delcambio.it Map F4 authentic Piedmontese specialties including caked and ricotta and pear tarts. The venue is 19486765. Map F2 traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality truffles, cheeses and meats. No-frills expertise, infused with a warm, homely Provence-style Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar ingredients. The wine list is extensive and MAGORABIN practiced for the past twenty years with atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates Just steps from the Mole, this starred traditional Piedmontese professionalism. French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, with Eataly, customers can choose from the restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, an Piazza Solferino, 16H. T: 011 535948. vintage trays, you can purchase traditional knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar. eclectic Chef with a strong personality. You www.vintage1997.com Map E4 traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its

30 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING DINING

Porto di Savona renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, waffles are deliciously light and topped with either sourced from only the finest producers. It has now sweet or savoury ingredients while you wait. Make taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s sure to try the house special whose batter is mixed best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions with cooked bacon and served with rocket leaves coast to its Food glossary of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that and Philadelphia cream cheese. Open Mon-Sat mountains, encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from 11.30am-7.30pm. €. From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s right up Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San Tommaso, to the finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the world- Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian 7. T: 349 3926090. Map F4 Amazonian famous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta forests, Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 Mollìca committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here interpreted noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com. Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, with a gourmet Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3 hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials twist. Signature cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola. dishes include Fassona Gusto Madre At Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and beef tartare with fried Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish choose to have your sandwich filled with these are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve marrow bone and spicy of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted or numerous other ingredients, all sourced compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes. mayonnaise, marinated with numerous dough varieties, flours and exclusively from small local Piedmont and Italian B Y C. Z. scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all producers. The bread is also heavenly! Whether American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, the ‘morbidoso’ or the ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed ‘focacciona’, there’s no way that you can go wrong carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and because they’re all supplied by historic Torinese Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 combined with the creativity and skill inherent in bakery Andrea Bertino. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon- BAGNA CAUDA of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. time-honoured dough-making techniques, are 3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon-4pm/7pm-10.30pm. This typical winter specialty consists of a veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. the reasons for the success of this healthy, easy- €. Piazza Madama Cristina, 2 bis. T: 333 7446737. sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter Map F2 to-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from Map F7 oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it. and chopped nuts can also be added. regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form Oriental Daily by Kiki Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6 Street Fish In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, Although this might seem strange in a city like Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked pasta together. fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere. TASTING EXPERIENCE it encourages conviviality, on the other, PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of Options on offer include fish tartare served in a especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you the venue’s original desserts including Azuki & STREET FOOD corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats might find people avoiding you because you Piedmontese Mixed Fry bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg fish bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese Gofreria Piemonteisa reek of it! custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries. If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling on the catch of the day. Half of this small space is veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm- around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop at occupied by an open-plan kitchen that allows you and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www. Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a time-honoured to watch the chefs at work, while the other half PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY musetto (a pork sausage made in part from orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of the more features high counters with stools. Open daily 12 This uniquely rich local specialty of a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked Off Map noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4. famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a yeast-based Piedmont consists of a combination of fried for several hours in boiling water. It is Bagna Cauda batter, without eggs or milk, these mouth-watering T: 389 0010612. Map F5 liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and PIZZA a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, a side of vegetables. One of the favourite A Casa di Pulcinella amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and An informal locale which, as its name suggests, by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables. Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied Not a dish for the faint-hearted. even has its own brotherhood. by a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest. VITELLO TONNATO Ingredients include the classics for which These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and

mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage. white wine, sliced thinly and served cold BOSCHERINO/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIOVANNI Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. © with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, Vitello Tonnato www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. T: 011 egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white 595 457. Off Map wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Bakery Restaurant & Pizza Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not BONET far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from ingredients. Diners can choose from among a sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti variety of classic toppings, with a few regional biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven. (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts. A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly natural culinary technique that is used to select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. LE VITEL ETONNÉ preserves the softness of the dessert and Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3 Located just steps from Palazzo Reale and the Mole, this small restaurant serves traditional

TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM facilitates the formation of a delicious crust

regional dishes including “vitello tonnato”, a specialty that the Piedmontese call “Vitel CAZZANTI/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM VALENTINO

© Bagna Cauda Bonet Crudo fa la Pizza! Tonné”. Main dishes are based on traditional recipes, such as homemade fresh pasta, the on its surface. © Crudo is an award-winning food company, classic Tajarin, agnolotti and plin. www.leviteletonne.com boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city,

32 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 33 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS Allianz Juventus Stadium fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the and international artists. The Art Library and the Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. Football Club whose home matches have been www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. played here since 2011, the year when the facility Map C5 was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco- J-Museum (Juventus Museum) compatible facilities in the world, in addition to Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the being one of the two architectural symbols of northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s dedicated to the history and triumphs of the major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a of the world’s best and most innovative sports hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia J-Museum, the first official football museum of the and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Corso combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. Off Map also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that Basilica di Superga are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat- thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s Sun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 deliverance from the French siege of 1706, December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces The ticket office closes one hours before the by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. A temple of according to the style of the era with a colonnaded Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadium- portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ e-museum. Via Druento 153. T: 011 4530486. contemporary convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the Off Map hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine Lingotto mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass art and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Located just outside the city’s vibrant more stunning when viewed from the top of the Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still centre, there’s a place that’s dedicated dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions entirely to art, where contemporary apartments, you can walk around the building to of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events cultural languages take centre stage, see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. amidst music, dance, literature and it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin design. Established by patron and art football team on their return from an away match shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral crashed into the side of the church, killing all on ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. lover Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, (see photo) the Fondazione Sandretto a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On FABIO MANCINO PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM FABIO or public transport, one of the most picturesque Re Rebaudengo was conceived as an © exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an observatory on the latest artistic trends original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, and contemporary cultural languages. hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Thanks to the contribution of young occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. Off Map artists engaged in promoting diverse net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. Off Map Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte art forms, the Foundation aims to make Mole Antonelliana Between holiness and esotericism Contemporanea contemporary art accessible to a wider, The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect mixed audience. The Gran Madre di Dio, unquestionably inspired by the Pantheon in Rome, is - amidst faith and mythology, Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by Located inside a post-industrial building Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed black magic and divine beliefs - one of the most intriguing churches in Turin. By Chiara Zaccarelli the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument since 2002, which also houses the by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the of national unity. At the time of its construction it city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum starred Spazio 7 restaurant, the Torinese was the highest brick building in Europe, standing offers a rich collection of works documenting the headquarters of the Foundation are he tour of the Gran Madre starts from commissioned by the Decurions to celebrate the Ossuary of the Fallen of the First World War. at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by a distance. You can enjoy one of the 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole characterized by their minimalist spaces, the return of Vittorio Emanuele I of Savoy, Some also claim that this church is yet Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, rises through layers of windows and pseudo- designed specifically to house and most spectacular and picturesque after the defeat of Napoleon in 1814, was another secret repository for the Holy Grail, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa T Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a panoramas of Turin, as you gradually inaugurated in 1831. and the statue of a woman representing Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open display contemporary art in a dynamic, needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on continually evolving context. approach it from piazza Vittorio Veneto The ambiguous appeal of this church is Faith, standing on one side of the stairway, is star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. and cross over the Ponte reinforced by various thought to be pointing to the place where the Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors The artistic and cultural offerings Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast transcend the concept of a permanent Vittorio Emanuele I, with legends. It appears that chalice is buried. Inside, the sculptural works Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. The Gran Madre di Dio is atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the a view of the church, the church was built in are particularly noteworthy, as is the dome, a Off Map display, giving way to site-specific 360-degree observation platform at the top of one of the most important exhibitions and projects commissioned located on the right bank the place where several masterpiece of Piedmontese neo-classicism, GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding of the Po river, framed by and intriguing Catholic centuries ago, a temple characterized by five orders of octagonal Contemporanea Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors to emerging artists and curators, whose Monte dei Cappuccini. churches in Turin dedicated to the goddess ceiling coffers, built entirely in reinforced GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of can also access the panoramic deck on foot by works of art interact with the spaces The Gran Madre, boasting Isis, also known as the concrete, terminating with a circular oculus 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of hosting them. the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, the characteristic shape “Gran Madre” (Great measuring over three meters in diameter, Italian and European artists, including Balla, Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and of a neo-classical temple, was built in the Mother), once stood. Isis, the bride of Osiris, through which the sunlight filters. Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana fsrr.org style of the Pantheon in Rome, and is one was the goddess of fertility, magic and the installations, videos and photos, plus one of the has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via Via Modane, 16 of the most important places of Catholic afterlife. So given the latter, it is perhaps not >> Piazza Gran Madre di Dio, 4. most important collections of video art. In addition Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. T: 011 3797600. Off Map Map H4 worship in Turin. The church, which was simply by chance that the church also hosts Map I6 to the above, this must-visit museum offers a

34 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 35 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Musei Reali and famous advertising campaigns and to explore the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. EDITOR’S buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the production. In order to access the museum’s residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events Museo Egizio TIP Musei Reali Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Museums are one of the largest and most iconic object is designed to activate the installations or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, diverse museum complexes in Europe. and unlock multimedia content across the museum. www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of The sheer size of the complex and collections Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. housed therein easily rival those of other Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, major European royal residences. A unique lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7 when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved tour devoted to history, art and nature, Map H1 the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked Piazza San Carlo comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces the beginning of a major urban transformation and Museo Nazionale del Cinema Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, and seven hectares of gardens. the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th important film museums. Featuring a unique, a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre 20th century, one of whose most important imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova sections comprises an impressive collection and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence collections through an evocative, interactive Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San of 16th century arms and amour. until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the itinerary. In addition to a vast film library Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s Italian government. On-site amenities include a food containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di most important cultural institutions, court in the former Regia Frutteria. offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of Castellamonte, while building on the latter began it houses over 200,000 books, antique www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and maps, engravings and drawings, including Map F3 focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing Museo della Sindone big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial re-opened after a long and complex fascinating museum documents one of the most over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am- several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over from the cross. The museum provides visitors with 11pm. Closed on Tues shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Have you heard of Jean-François headquarters – the imposing Palazzo four levels of exhibition space, the gallery information about its provenance and history (from www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the Champollion? A French archaeologist delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating showcases approximately 500 masterpieces the second half of the 5th century when it became Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4 and Egyptologist and the director of the back to the 17th century – the museum is the property of the House of Savoy), as well as by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European Map H4 Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, extremely modern in terms of both its layout the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli artists displayed in chronological order from Other highlights include the objects and paintings OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred he is the man who deciphered and immersive visitor experience. the 14th to 20th centuries. displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located the mystery of hieroglyphics Remodelled by Oscar-winning set on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly GIARDINI REALI - Extending over showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened through the Rosetta Stone designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, approximately seven hectares of land, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) in 1822. It is also thanks to the exhibition space was doubled, and located in the centre of the city, these museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a Champollion’s expertise following massive renovations, beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2 Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and and former opulent splendour. Due to culture. The venue hosts a rich program of that we owe the defining and is now spread over four Museo Egizio exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique ongoing renovations, today only a portion of statement: “The road to levels, three above ground and Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian and electronic – as well as events dedicated to collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 Memphis and Thebes one below ground, organized the garden are open for public viewing. museum in the world and the second in terms of theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most the value and quality of its treasures outside of initiatives include workshops, start-ups and as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani passes through Turin.” in chronological order. important archaeological finds unearthed Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am- and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works When mentioning Here you’ll find mummies, in the city and throughout Piedmont are Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art 8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Turin, he was referring tombs, papyrus sheets and expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance housed in the new underground space lying T: 011 4365832. Map G4 to its unique and everything related to ancient adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In Parco del Valentino extraordinary Egypt (included embalmed PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Egyptian Museum, animals) from the Paleolithic lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. the world’s first to the Coptic era. If you’re so stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Egyptian museum overwhelmed that you don’t frescoes. An impressive feat of significant five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts houses numerous treasures including the Castello Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. Off Map artistic and architectural value, and the ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, founded in 1824, the know where to begin your official residence of the Savoy family until archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty Teatro Regio second in terms of the tour, get an audio guide. It’s free 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and value and number of and allows you to choose and faithful 19th century reconstructions based on designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was changed thanks to the work of several of Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm artifacts (around 40,000) personalize your itinerary to suit the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo outside of Cairo, and individual requirements. A tip? between the 18th and 19th centuries. your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, for educational purposes and open to the public Mollino, the only part of the original building the eighth most widely The Restoration Area on the first PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO visited museum in Italy. floor that allows visitors to watch on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. or partially sighted visitors are also available. The British newspaper animal mummies being restored. an 18th century building that, over the T: 011 4406903. Map F4 Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea “The Times” listed it as one centuries, was used as a residence for cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous Museo Lavazza members of the Savoy family, house paths. The park is always open, but the Castello artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio of the 50 best museums >> Museo Egizio Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands the temporary exhibitions of the Royal del Valentino is not open to the public. The is one of the most important Italian theatres on on the planet. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, the European scene, and offers an action-packed Museums. Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April Despite its longstanding T: 011 4406903. Map F4 it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and history and historic www.museoegizio.it advertisements and celebrities that have become an Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. integral part of its public image. The museum uses a Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3 circular route to focus on its creative collaborations di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of

36 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 37 OUT OF TOWN FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni.it). If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good

MIKEDOTTA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM selection of whites, including Moscato. An © absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www.enotecadelmonferrato.it).

ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Historic wine cellar in Langhe Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. The castle is located in the province of Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal and currently home to the headquarters of the to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido residences of the House of Savoy ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition restaurant located in the nature reserve of (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). a short distance from Alba, the Castle of and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Monticello is one of the most imposing and Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane. MONFERRATO best-preserved medieval buildings in the area com). Other must-sees include the Castle of Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been tevan ZZ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM S © Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area owned and inhabited by the Roero family of its name to the most famous Italian red wine occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). There’s and is thought to date back to mediaeval times. provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition nothing that says ‘royal highness’ more than The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor a castle. Experience what it feels like to be a museum that takes visitors on an immersive activities, Monferrato is renowned for its prince or princess for one night and stay at the Discovering Piedmont journey through the history of viticulture via gastronomic specialties. Nature, culture, art Castle of Guarene, an important stopover on light, film and installations. The museum is and religion combine in a walk that takes the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also set over three floors of the village’s stunning visitors on a journey to discover the Nature hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux Avant-garde wineries, a legacy medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to Park of the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province chain (www.castellodiguarene.com). his is UNESCO’s official reason for adding and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous of world-class cuisine and the wine-growing regions of the they all have different morphologies, and wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). After visiting design that encompasses Mount Crea and its sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from marvelous landscapes. All of T Langhe-Roero and Monferrato to cultural characteristics. The region’s varied the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly these things have earned the its world heritage list in 2014. “An exceptional landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive La Morra, better known as ‘the terrace of the Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and living testimony to the historical tradition of array of local specialties: from superlative wine, Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and an excursion, don’t miss the Eco Museum traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, areas of the Langhe, Roero and grape growing and winemaking processes, of to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ Monferrato UNESCO World a social context, and a rural economy based on mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia. only found in this area – in Cella Monte. In (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta Heritage status, resulting in viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe-Roero an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be it). In addition to other specialties, the area is addition to informing visitors about the history, (www.salsicciadibra.it). and Monferrato are an outstanding example of accessed by car (several of the larger centres renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, landscapes and art of Monferrato, the museum Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to an elite tourist destination. man’s interaction with his natural surroundings.” can also be reached by train). Other options boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ also organizes initiatives and events targeted the architectural complex of the Agenzia BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ include one of the many organized wine and status and used to make various sweet treats. at highlighting the historical characteristics of di Pollenzo is well worth your time. Built in which is symbolic, because man has managed tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge. If you want to purchase these tantalizing the place. For some years now, the museum 1833, as a country residence for the House to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics specialties and see how they’re made, visit has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile of Savoy, it now hosts the first University that it boasts today. THE LANGHE Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www. task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in of Gastronomic Sciences in the world. In this area, the vineyards of several of the The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground This university was founded and promoted world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, River and Liguria, between the provinces lovers of medieval history and architecture is spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath by the international Slow Food association, Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a houses and cellars that, in some instances, are which studies, protects and disseminates the stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display among the area’s many tourist attractions beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www. real underground tunnels. These works of arts, agricultural and enogastromic traditions of of changing colours and softly rolling hills. are its numerous castles, including that of castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up carved and modeled by artists, were either countries worldwide Although geographically the Langhe, Roero Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century to the castle, take a break and treat yourself used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, (www.agenziadipollenzo.com).

38 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 39 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. Caselle If the caller does not know where he or she Airport is, the operator will identify where the person Malpensa making the call is physically located and will pass Airport this information to the emergency services. OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza. T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5. T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org

PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting Turin, the city of the Alps from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties. or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: urin was a Roman colony, the first and its elegant squares have given Turin the system, extends for 13.2km and only includes www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino capital of Italy and an industrial city. nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. one line that connects the commune of Fast train network from Turin ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash www.italotreno.it. payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is From its origins to the present time, With the exception of a few streets in the Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway T PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS available on the website). Turin has had several different incarnations, centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Airports One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. each of which has left profound traces in its the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin architecture and urban layout. streets), the remainder of the city is open the Lingotto Fiere terminus. 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: (16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, to Milan Malpensa airport. 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: Extending over a surface area of less than to traffic and most landmark attractions are Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min. minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the easily accessible by car. However, beware of It is surrounded by green hills that stand WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll The most important railway station in Turin is motorway junction. The junction is connected only pay €5 for your ticket. longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active 715 metres above sea level, and which, in Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the addition to their natural beauty, also offer Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high- Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it - speed and international trains arrive at and motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. getting your bearings easy. circulation of private vehicles and parking numerous cultural and historical attractions. www.wetaxi. depart from there. www.aeroportoditorino.it One of the city’s most distinctive architectural in the centre of the city. This restriction does They can be reached in just a few minutes Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan • Connections to the airport Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta located in the city centre – which house shops hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting TGV services between Paris and Milan and other Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to transport to get around the city. These include several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra offer shade in the summer and shelter from the buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). It is therefore not surprising that the city is TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm fee for night or holiday travel). rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. www.trenitalia.com. Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

40 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 41 ESSENTIALS

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -. ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their Your personal travel assistant now in the The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the own car and staying in a hotel in the central city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival Where Turin Magazine best hotels in Turin! car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. and departure only, filling out a form at the [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] Information desk T: 02 232323. hotel reception (ask your concierge for more www.milanomalpensa-airport.com information). • Connections to the airport In the same way it is possible to reach paid Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also the same parking lot with the request for transit from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. authorization no later than 11am. FREE FREE HOTSPOT www.aeroportoditorino.it Tourist Information CALLS INTERNET WIFI CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 aeroporto.cuneo.it 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. • Connections to the airport TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. connection from Turin with departure and arrival Open daily 9am-6pm. of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy HOTEL INFO CITY TICKETS & ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it Special Tours & SERVICES GUIDE by EVENTS Getting around Turin CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Line A to explore the city center and the hill; Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 village and the medieval fortress; Bike Sharing 0672000. Line B to access various sites including the GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the [TO]BIKE - the bike sharing [TO]Bike service offers Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri more than 140 stations scattered around the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and 5 STARS 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; city from which to pick up and deposit rental Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di bikes. Various subscription options are available: Map E4-5 and GTT personnel are not allowed to return Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting annual €25, weekly €8 or daily €5. The use is free Grand Hotel Sitea – Via Carlo Alberto, 35 • Map F5 objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost point: at any bus stop. for rides of less than 30 minutes, even several Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino times a day, after which the rate provided for by Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language • your Map F5 subscription formula is applied by scaling can be collected after 48 hours from the time of commentary. 4the STARS amount from the credit on the card. To loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4. Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). Acaccess Hotel Torino the service by Marriott you – need Via Bisalta, to be 11 •a Off credit Map card Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also Artholder. Hotel BostonFor more Torino information – Via A. Massena, and 70 other • Off typesMap Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus available. Artof Hotelsubscription Olympic – visitVia Verolengo, the website 19 • Off www.tobike.it Map . or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin BestGreen Western Line Crystal 800 548040. Palace Hotel Store – Via [TO]Bike Nizza, 11 Via • Map Santa E6 minutes on buses, trams or metro. BestChiara, Western 26/f. Hotel Open Luxor Mon-Fri – Corso 10am-7pm.Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28 MOBIKE• Off Map – this ‘free floating’ system allows you Bestto book Western a bike Plus Hotelvia a Genovasmartphone – Via P. Sacchi, App, 14/Bidentify • Map E6 Concordthe position – Via G.L. of Lagrange, the bike 47 •nearest Map F6 to you and then TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD Dinastyleave itSuites in any – Piazza authorized Carlo Felice, parking 7 • Map E5area in the city. DiplomaticCost: 1 euro – Via deposit, Cernaia, 42 and • Map 0.30 C3 euros every 30 Doubleminutes. Tree Forby Hilton more Turin informations Lingotto – Via visit Nizza, 230 • Offwww.mobike.com. Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • OFO – Ofo, the world largest station-free bike Off Map sharing company, has launched in Turin. Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Operating across 180 cities worldwide, Ofo’s Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 mission is to provide a convenient, affordable Hoteland Principelow carbon di Torino method – Corso ofMoncalieri, travel. 85Users • Off canMap Lancasterdownload Torino an –App Corso on Filippo their Turati, smartphone 8 • Off Map to find J nearbyHotel – Via bikes Traves, and 40 • scan Off Mapthe QR code located on Nheither Collection the frameTorino Piazzaor smart Carlina lock – Piazzato unlock Carlo Emanuele them. II, 15The • Map company’s G5 yellow bikes have airless tyres Nh(to Torino prevent Centro punctures) – Corso Vittorio and Emanuele a 3-speed II, 104 gear • Map shift. B4 NhCosts: Torino 0.20 Lingotto euros Congress for the – first Via Nizza, half 262 hour; • Off 0.30Map euros Nhfor Torino the secondSanto Stefano half hour; – Via Porta 0.50 Palatina, euros 19for • Mapevery F2-3 30 Novotelminutes Torino thereafter Corso Giulio and Cesare 5 euros – Corso per Giulio day. Cesare, RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© 338/34For more • Off informationsMap visit www.ita.ofo.com This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map OBIKEStarhotels - oBike Majestic is a –global Corso Vittorio leader Emanuele in bike-sharing II, 54 • Map E6 free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and Thewithout Originals stations Hotel Turin offering Royal – an Corso innovative Regina Margherita, service the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also 249for • Offshort Map distance transport. The platform is offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on TownHousecurrently 70present – Via XX on Settembre, 3 different 70 • Map continents F3 for a Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. Turintotal Palace of 26 Hotel states – Via and P. Sacchi, over 840 • Map cities E6 worldwide. For more information www.turismotorino.org VictoriaThe app, Torino which – Via N.can Costa, be 4 downloaded • Map F5 comfortably Villaon Savoiayour smartphone, – Corso Sicilia, 1, allows angolo Corso users Moncalieri to locate • Off and Map *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit. rent bicycles using a completely innovative www.manetmobile.com [email protected] 42 WHERE TURIN I MAY 2020 BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

CORSO ALESSANDRIA CORSO

TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO

VI A PAGANELLI

Parrocchia

Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI CORSO GIULIO CESARE

ANZ OL A I V S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O

S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O STRADA DI DRUENDO 500 m V I A V E R O N E S E

BERGERA VIA VENARIA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I V IA A NDREA SANSOV V I A R E I S S R O M O L I IN O VIA TRAVES CORSO GAETANO SCIREA Juventus Museum V I A V E R O N E S E REBAUDENGO

VIAGIOVANNI BAT TISTAGANDINO STRAD A DE Allianz Stadium LLA CO VI NT INE V I A R E I S S R O M O L I SS A A AL CORSO VERCELLI

I T R E B I N U C O I R O T T I V A I V FONSO VI A REFRA ANZ OL A I V STRADA ALTESSANO V I A V E R O N E S E V I A G V IA M A I U S E P P E VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA BADINI CONFALONIERI M A S S A R I V I A G I U S E P NCORE VIA VENARIA P E M A S S A R I S A C ANIS P E C IO O’ V I A G I U S U S E P P E D E P P E M GI A S S A R I VIA ETTORE STAMPINI

C O R S O F E R R A R A A VIA POMPEO COLAJANNI VI C C A R D O A R N RI V I A V I A VIA SANSOVINO O R B E T E L L O VIA VANINETTI

C O R S O G R O S S E T O V I A O R B VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI E T E V I L L O A G PIAZZA I U S E P P E M A

VIA LEONARDO FEA

STRADAALTESSANO VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA

ST RADA D V ELL E V A I A T E LLE T TE V I O A IA SI C O R S O G R O S S E T O R N I I S D RACCORDO AUTOSTRADALE TORINO - CASELLE E R N I A ROS MBAR A O V I A L E L D E I M LE VALLETTE O DEL C U G H E Stazione A T T I D CINCINNATO CORS C O R S O G R O S S E T O V CORSO VERCELLI Madonna di Campagna VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE I VIA ALA DI STURA A STRA VIA FIESOLE NZIO T E R N I V V I A L U C E N Chiesa QUI I A L T O PIAZZA VIA PIRANO V I A V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I S O S P E L L O VIA CAMPIGLIA Santa Famiglia Di Nazaret V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I U V I A B O T T I C E L L I C CONTI CORSO DEL MOLISE C A V Chiesa Santa Giardino I A S O S P E L L O DI E L U M I R P E L L E D A I V Caterina da Siena REBAUDENGO CORSO LUCIO V Chiesa Don Gnocchi I A T E R N I V I A S O S Madonna di Campagna P E L L O NA Giardino Jaquerio ADON NA STRA V I G PIAZZA LE M V I A T E R N A AMPA RUGGERO PIAZZA I VI I C D V AI N C I O L A P O R P O R A VIA BORGARO PIAZZA BONGHI, DERNA V I A B O T T I C E L L I VIA PARENZO VIA SARGIO VETTA V I A B R E N VIA GIOVANNI SEGANTINI V I A F O R L I ’ VIA CARDINALE G. MASSAIA TA STRADAALTESSANO V I A F D'ITALIA D EL BORGO VITTORIA O L I G N O VIA CASTELDELFINO Parco Sempione Est V I A M I C H E L E C V A I N D R E AC E S A LP N I O L A O P P I O O R B C O R S O T A R A N T O VIA SANSOVINO V I A M I C H E L E CORSO LOMBARDIA C O P P I O Parco Sempione V I A V I T E V I A D E L L E P R I M U L E Giardino Cavallotti PIAZZA VIA CAMPIGLIA V I A F O L I G N O PASQUALE V I A C V I A B E R A R L O L O VILLARI R E N Z I N I N A R D I N O L Stazione Torino Rebaudengo Fossata

S C A V I A A S S I S I V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A F O R L I ’ C O R S O T O S C A N A V VIA SARGIO I A B E R N A R D I N O L CORSO POTENZA PIAZZA U I N I LUIGI

V I A A S S I S I V I A F O R L I ’ VIA MICHELE ANTONIO VIBO’

VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE CORSO GIULIO CESARE VIA LAURO ROSSI FRASSATI VIA RENATO MARTORELLI A VIA VEROLENGO VIA GOTTARDO V I A V E R O L E N G O A G.TARTINI Piazza Chiesa della Salute CIN PIAZZA VIA CERESOLE VI VIA VEROLENGO V AS I T R A D E L A GHIRLANDAIO V I A S E M P I OV NI A E G O T T A R D O PIAZZA CORSO VERCELLI VIA ARCANGELO CORELLI SOFIA Parco della Conuenza CORSO VENEZIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE VIA BOCCARDO VIA MONTE ROSA VIA VITERBO VIA PIER LUIGI DA PALESTRINA Parco Aurelio VIA SANTHIA’ CORSO VENEZIA VIA GASPARI SPONTINI Peccei A S TA OS F A I V VIA GIOVENALEVIA GIAMBATTISTA AN PERGOLESI S O T T O PA S VIA GIOVANNI CRAVERO V AI P A I N E Z Z A S O

C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A T VIA FRANCECO CIGNA

I VIA ORVIETO

N VIA CERVINO MEF Museo Ettore Fico Parco Dora Parrocchia VIA TESSO San Domenico Savio

E H C R A M O S R O C Parco Pubblico Pellerina Parco del Meisino C O R S O O T TO N E R O S A I VIA CUNEO LARGO VIA PISTOIA VIA LUIGI DAMIANO BOLOGNA V I A C U N E O Mario Carrara A NV I T O CON ECI C H I CORSO VERCELLI VIA SONDRIO VIA CEVA VIA BRA VIA TOLLEGO CORSO REGIO PARCO CORSO ENRICO GAMBA VIA FOSSANO VIA LIVORNO VIA CREMONA CHIESA S T R A D A D E L F O R T NI O Stimmate di VIA CARMAGNOLA San Francesco D'Assisi CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO VIA CAPUA V IA U R B IN O V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S VIA NOVI VIA RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO LARGO Parrocchia Gesù Operaio V I A B I E L L A PALERMO VIA CEVA VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C O UROS M A BRI VIA BOLOGNA VIA DON GIOVANNI BOSCO V IA P E S A R O CORSO SVIZZERA VIA LODI VIA ANGELO SISMONDA C O R S O A P P I O C L A U D I O VIA AQUILA VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA BARI V I A C O M O V I A S E R V A I S VIA TRIVERO CORSO LECCE L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I VIA ORNAVASSO VIA V IA C IR IE ' C O R S O B R E S C IA P A VI V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S CORSO GIULIO CESARE I N O S S A T O R D N A S S E L A O S R O C VIA CHIVASSO PIAZZA CORSO PRINCIPE ODDONE V I A R O V I G O

VIA SAN DONATO CIRIO FRANCESCO VIA V I A M I C H E L E L E S S O N A VIA LEVANNA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI D O V A VIA FRATELLI PASSONI GIUSEPPE

O R A Z Z A G O F A I V Parrocchia VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE NICOLA SAN DONATO Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice VIA NICOLA FABRIZI BRESCIA I A CARLO PEDROTTI FABRIZI S. Alfonso Maria V VIA CARLO BOSSI VIA SAN DONATO AURORA Ex Scalo Vanchiglia Dè Liguori A VIA DURANDI B C D E F G H CORSO TELESIO VIA LE CHIUSE I L

VIA EXILLES VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO VIA PERUGIA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI P A VDI O V A V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA VIA BALME VIA BORGO DORA VIA VITTORIO ANDREIS Lavazza Nuvola Parco Colletta VIA FIANO MARIA VIA INVORIO VIA AMEDEO P VIA SACCARELLI

V I A L E C E R T O S A VIALE CERTOSA DOMODOSSOLA VIA AUSILIATRICE Chiesa VIA VINCENZO MARIA MIGLIET TI V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA Torino Caselle VIA S. GIUSEPPE VIA SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI C O RSO VE RO N A VIA NETRO Juventus VIA LUDOVICOBELLARDI 14 Reggia di Nostra Signora 12 Milano Malpensa GIAMPIETRO EYRON VIA GIACOMO MEDICI del Suragio Chiesa di S. Gioachino VIA BOLOGNA Stadium  (TRN) Airport Piccola Casa della (MXP) Airport

Venaria  Chiesa CHIRONI VIA NICOLA FABRIZI Divina Provvidenza VIA BURONZO PIAZZA Cottolengo L U N G O D O R A FR I E N Z E VIA Madonna VIA GIACOMO MEDICI BENEDETTO VITTORIO ASINARI DI BERNEZZO PIAZZA VIA CARLO TENIVELLI VIA BORGOMANERO VIA DELLA Divina Provvidenza VIA V.ASINARI DI BERNEZZO VIA ROASIO RISORGIMENTO MIGLIARA V I A A N C O N A E H C R A M O S R O C VIA GIOVANNI FORCA Chiesa COTTOLENGO SA PI AV I PARELLA VIA ASCANIO SOBRERO VIA MODENA 1 A I R A P I R A R OD 1 VIA SOSTEGNO Immacolata Concezione CORSO PRINCIPE ODDONE V I A S . C H I A R A VIA San Donato VIA SAN DONATO Chiesa C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A A Chiesa Parr. S. Anna Turin Map AMEDEO PEYRON VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Chiesa Evangelica Valdese Sacra Famiglia Cimitero Monumentale di Torino VIA BIANZÈ CORSO GIULIO CESAREPRIOCC PIAZZA VIA L. ARIOSTO . VIA CARLO MICHELE BUSCALIONI V I A G I A C I N T O P A C H I O T T I COLLEGNO GIACINTO VIA PEYRON . D C O RNSO O V A RA VIA STEFANO CLEMENTE C L U VIA G. MAMELI V I A F O G G I A

VIA RAFFAELLO MORGHEN RAFFAELLO VIA IA V I A V I T T O R I O S A S S I V I A G I A C I N T O P A C H I O T T I V I A S A N TA C H I A R V N GD O O SAR V P O VIA ROSOLINO PILO CORSO PRINCIPE EUGENIO VIA C. CAGLIERO VIA GIUSEPPE TALUCCHI MICHELESCHINA VIA Anagrafe CORSO SVIZZERA VIA GIACOMO MEDICI VIA PRINCIPI D'ACAJA VIA PARMA VIA ROSOLINO PILO VIA ROSTA CORSO PALERMO VIA DOMODOSSOLA VIA LARGO VIA CARLO CAPELLI V I A C A R L O I G N A Z I O G I U L I O VIA SAN DOMENICO A CIBRARIO Centro Palatino Parco della Tesoriera PIEDICAVALLO VIA Ex Ospedale San Luigi VIA SOSTEGNO VIA MATTEUCCI Pala Fuksas VIA MANTOVA VE RO NC OA RSO

VIA SALBERTRAND

VIA GIANFRANCESCO RE CORSO LECCE VIA DEL CARMI VIA PIETRO PIFFETTI VIA A. MANZONI V I A S O N A Chiesa Cristiana A N TA Mercato CORSO XI FEBBRAIO PIAZZA Alimentare V I A V A L G I O I E V I A V A L G I O I E Evangelica Pentecostale C H I A VIA GIAN DORA RIPARIA V I A V A L G I O I E STATUTO NE PIAZZA CORSO MONTE GRAPPA VIA FELICE CORDERO DI PAMPARATO R A Mercato FRANC NA VIA DIGIONE PIAZZA VIA SAN DOMENICO PIAZZA DELLA VIA EXILLES V I A B L I G NY Ittico VIA CARLO ALLIONI Santuario ESCO FIOCHETTO VIA BRIONE VIA BONELLIMANUELE REPUBBLICA CORSO REGIOMESSI PARCO CAD O SRE della Consolata LUNGO DORA FIRENZE

VIA BORGOSESIA VIA ALPIGNANO CORSO VALDACCO Museo della FILIBERTO FANE VIA CAMANDONA BERNINI PIAZZA V I A Mercato C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A OR CORSO FRANCIA STATUTO VIA ALBERTO NOTA Alimentare CORSO CATANIA ermi PIAZZA Principi dcaa VIA DEL CARMINE Sindone VIA MAGENTA SA PI AV I

CORSO FRANCIA VIA PIETRO COSSA Giardino Giuseppe Delno VIA GIOVANNI SOMIS Chiesa di VIA SOSTEGNO RIVOLI V I A E D M O N D O D E A M I C I S Chiesa La Visitazione CORSO FRANCIA Bernini2 Santa Chiara 2 CORSO CADORE PIAZZA VIA DELLE VIA DUCHESSA JOLANDA CORSO SAN MARTINO PIAZZETTA CORSO TELESIO VIA MILLAURES Chiesa di NZE DELLA RE VIA GRAZIA DELEDDA DEL VIA DELLA CONSOLATA Sant’Agostino to I acconigi VISITAZIONE VIA S. CHIARA r LUNGO AGLIARI VIA GIACOMO LEOPARDI CORSO FRANCIA CORSO MARCHE VIA LUDOVICO BELLARDI MONASTERO VIA ABATE VASSALLI VIA BOUCHERON San Giovanni VIA MODENA LUNGO DORA FI ivoli Chiesa del PIAZZA VIA Basilica VIA ENRICO CIALDINI Battista Umbe Porta Palatina CORSO REGGIO Y E R O D I U G A I V VIA ABATE VASSALLI SAN VIA ANT’AGOSTINO Mauriziana ia V I A C V I A P ICarmine AV E Giardino DORA SIE LUNGO DORA VOGHERA

Monte rappa VIA DEI QUARTIERI SAVOIA DO er A N A I B U R A I V VIA BORGONE VIA V I A F I L I P P O J U VA R R A DORA RIPARIA VIA TRANA Jan Palach VIA CORTE D’ MENICO RONDÒ VIA PARMA PIAZZA Parrocchia V IA G IU S E P P E G A R IB A L D I Chiesa di Gall Museo di Antichità LUNGO DORA SIENA CORSO FRANCIA VIA DELLA CIT TADELLA V I A D E L L A B A S I L I C A RIVELLA Pozzo trada Maria Regina Parrocchia San Domenico D R A L U A E B A I V VIA COAZZE Museo NA MASSAUA VIA FREIDOUR Gesù Nazareno VIA G. L. PASSALACQUA VIA GIOVANNI BERTR APPELLO C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I delle Missioni V IA A N T O N IO B E R T O L A Area Archeologica C O RSOT R TO N A CORSO BELGIO VIA SUSA di Arte Orientale CAD O SRE VIA A. MANZONI Massaua del Teatro Romano CORSO FRANCIA E Chiesa di Marce Giardino ex San Dalmazzo C O R S O P E S C H IE R A Ex Stazione Porta Susa AN VIA G.F. BELLEZZA Galleria Sabauda VIA SANT’ANTONINO VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI

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1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 5 Via Torino 7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 9 Corso XXII Marzo 11 Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera Navigli (G8-G9) | Brera (H5) | Corso Garibaldi & Corso Como (H3) | Porta Venezia (G3-H3) LEONARDO SHOPPING AREAS TOP IN TOWN ENTERTAINMENT LEGENDA 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 4 Via Dante 6 Brera-Solferino 8 Corso Buenos Aires 10 Navigli-Porta Ticinese 12 CityLife Shopping District See page 10 AREAS Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione (F4-G4) | Isola (H1-I1) | CityLife (C2-C3) | Porta Romana DISTRICT

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E N E ST A L T P I T A O E C LA CA D NI D S L I ’ LL A L DELLA I A N E N m E A B M L E A T O ’ O A C A Ponte L I C E A D O F BELLA VIENNA E T T S O V C G A T E PAOLO S N o E O E E T E D O E N T A O T T S M L Teatro Malibran L E TA SA D S S A CAMPO I E c R S L L E A N A T ’ I L I C L A A A A T NU M O L C C A R A LE H A T N D L O A C E M RT S O N della Costituzione E SAN GIACOMETO S I E S C C O L N E C A N I E N F S N A C U R I E L ER . L E A C BE H O E S V D A R DE O E O NA E R N Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto L I T S . M M e M V L E D C U O CAMPO A L O A A I G O E CA L A E E A N LU I ’AR O G CORTE SECONDA CC L D I . T M AL S A C D L S M F S L G R LE E L R D L A T R P L G P O V . CA L N L L S E E CA .G D R A E E I D E N O A DEL MILION SANT’AGOSTINO CARAMPANE E A E CA AMENTA A O S R I DE I R E S C O L N E A T D L AN C L L C F O D San Giacomo S L L A FON E T D A I R N T O CA I L CORTE DEL O C R E F E T N O P E S A E L E S E E I le RÀ B M E ON G R BA L E I D L E D R R V B D R A E V AR L E O E I D L IA A RE TEATRO D L a T C E I S E E L . L H N E T CAMPO A E O L A A D I ZA L L di Rialto C O E n E I R D CA C L C L C L C AL AL C L L C R I A E E A C L C L SANTA a O A . 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G VIA DELL’ERTA CANINA

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V I A R E I M S I C O I NLEONARDO Porta Romana VIA FRANCESCO BOCCHI L ONI

VIA UGO FOSCOLO M A E R B O S A

Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O

PIAZZALE VI

VIA ERTACANINA VIA DI PORTA ROMANA

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Giardino della Scuderie Reali E Parco Della

V IA L E M A C H IA V E L L I Liceo Artistico L Cimitero Villa di VIA AUSTRIA Statale di Porta Romana I

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Parco della Carraia A VIA GRAN BRETAGNA ISLANDA

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Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte

V PIAZZA CARDINALE

VIA DEL BOBOLINO Palazzo dei Vescovi

ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO

AD LVPEI OL GM OGI P I EAR LEI

L VIA DELLE PORTE SANTE

Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA

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VIA PORTOGALLO

V I A G I R A M O N T E RBOSA

V Parco della Rimembranza

A DI SAN LEONARDO L I L A I

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AV I VIA SENESE G A O BA EVN I ED ET OF R, N TI V I A E S

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VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI

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SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O

VIA DELL E V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L G A

VIA MARCO POLO

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DUE STRADE

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V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

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