Walk number: Four
Route: Monte Generoso to Muggio
Brief description: A delightful alpine walk which is mainly downhill until you reach Muggio which requires a hike up. Views throughout are stupendous. The Muggio Valley is remote and timeless. Before commencing the walk you could take the path to the top of Monte Generoso which is 100m higher than the top railway station.
Grade: Easy/Moderate
Distance: About 7/8 miles.
Time: 3 hrs 30 mins.
Start: Monte Generoso
Finish: Muggio village
How to get there: By mountain railway from Capolago.
How to get back: Post bus from Muggio to Chiasso FS and train from Chiasso FS to Lugano.
Map: Locarno - Lugano Composizione no. 5007; Lugano Excursion Map from Lugano Tourist Office. Routes 26 and 26D cover parts of this walk.
Refreshments: Monte Generoso top station, Bellavista middle station, Muggio.
Notes: A key episode in The Journey to the East takes place at the foot of this valley in Morbio Inferiore.
Route:
1. The train that connects with the Lugano/Paradiso 10.00 am ferry gets you to the top of Monte Generoso at about 12 noon. This gives you plenty of time to reach Muggio. From the top there is a signpost to Muggio that indicates that the walk is two hours in length. This is down a steep path which we are not going to follow. We are going to start by walking down a gentler path beneath the railway line to the middle station. The path is wide with large stones and descends gently.
2. After 20 minutes a path on your left heads off to Muggio. Ignore this and keep heading down the track.
3. You enter a cool wood (30 mins) followed by open country then another area of woodland and open country.
4. The path flattens out 16 minutes later (46 mins). Seven minutes further on you cross the railway (53 mins) and you are soon into more woodland.
5. Bellavista station is reached after 1 hour 15 mins. There are good views of the lake from here and a self service restaurant.
6. From Bellavista follow a sign (east) to Muggio. You are on a wide path through tall trees. Turn left at the next sign to Muggio (timed 1 hour 50m) heading down a stoney woodland trail. Soon this starts to flatten out (1.24).
7. A minute later there are open views down to Milan Plain (1.25). Soon follow a yellow sentiero sign (1.26).
8. A gate leads you down to a road (1.28). Here you have two choices of route.
Directly opposite a sign on the road a path leads to Muggio through a meshed gate. Alternatively you can follow the road for a short distance. I followed the road which soon offers splendid alpine views to the north and views of the N. Italian Plain to the south. Soon you are passing a hang gliding venue and hearing the toll of alpine bells (1.32).
9. A wide verge by side of road makes easy walking (1.39).
10. You reach a road junction with some car parking bays. The path points down by a small building and two more signs confirm the route (time indicated to Muggio 1 hour 10m) (1.50). You start walking down a gently descending woodland path.
11. Turn right at the next sentiero sign pointing along a wide track that twists down the hill (1.58). Six minutes later look out for a sentiero sign by a tall grey stone structure beneath a tree (2.04). Marking is good around here with paint also daubed on the trees. This is lovely country with spectacular views of Muggio and Cabbio, Monte Generoso and woodland to your right.
12. Pianspessa farm heaves into view below (2.06). Negotiate the steep slope down to it and head for a bench which has a good view point (2.11).
13. From the bench drop directly down and look for markers on rocks and you will pick up the path which soon becomes clear because of more markers.
14. You reach a gate (2.15).
15. Two painted stones by a tree direct you down the path on your right (2.19).
16. You pass an old farmhouse. Round the back of the building you see the next marker (2.21).
17. Through another gate and past an old farm store (2.23). You now enter a wood with a long winding and descending path. It is well marked and takes about 20 minutes walking.
18. Sign to Muggio is seen (2.25).
19. You reach a mountain house with a solar panel (2.39).
20. You come into the open with views of Muggio and Cabbio. On your right the solitary Tur San Giavanni is soon seen (2.46).
21. You reach the little hamlet of San Giavanni which is a collection of old farms. The stony path gives way to metalled surface (2.47).
22. Sign to Muggio timed 30 minutes (2.52).
23. The path drops down to a bridge (3.09) and then climbs up to the hill top village of Muggio.
24. Arrive in Muggio (3.17). Refreshments at the Ristorante Stella beneath the Parish Church.
Post Bus times - Muggio to Chiasso FS (Summer 2002)
M-F 15.46 16.51 17.48 18.48
Sat 14.51 16.51 1748
Sun 15.51 17.48
Gazetteer:
Monte Generoso Highest mountain in this part of the Ticino at 1701 metres above sea level. Monte Generro in Klingsors Last Summer.
Bellavista Halfway station on Monte Generoso railway with restaurant.
Muggio Small hill top village towards the top of the Muggio Valley set in tranquil countryside.
Cabbio Neighbouring village to Muggio. Like the other villages in this area it suffers from depopulation and an ageing population. Previously the main activities here had been pastoral or involved timber management.
Morbio Superiore and Inferiore Large villages at the base of the valley; almost suburban.
Chiasso Railway marshalling town on the Italian border. Also dominated by road systems.