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For lovers around the world who enjoy wine and the good life Vol 15 Issue 4, Autumn 2019 INDIA SommelierTHE WINE MAGAZINE

Napa Valley WOMEN’S INFLUENCE GROWS page 16 Burgundy’s INDIA WINE MAGAZINE VOL 15 ISSUE 4, AUTUMN 2019 Chablis THE BEST OF page 38 Vignobles & Signatures Club BORDEAUX’S TOP FAMILIES CELEBRATE page 42 Pairing Food & Wine CINNAMON CLUB IN LONDON page 76 Wine Basics HOW TO ORDER WINE Spotlight page 80 ON SPANISH WINES’ AMAZING VARIETY page 22

INDIA’S PREMIER WINE MAGAZINE. CONTROLLED CIRCULATION from the editor

s I pen these lines, I’m on my way to London to attend the launch of the eighth edition of “The World Atlas of Wine” by AHugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, for which I am the India correspondent. Encyclopaedic in scope, the updated and enhanced edition features 230 maps of which 20 are new including several 3D maps. One of them is about wind currents, which illustrates how their direction can affect the young vines in a . Also new are the short summaries that appear above the different sections and serve as a quick reference, if you don’t want to delve any deeper. This is an authoritative reference book, which makes an invaluable addition to any wine lover’s bookshelf if you want to learn more about wine.

I often hear it said that women have a better palate than men. As the number of women winemakers increases, does this mean that there could be a change in wine style? See what Shoba Narayan has to say about this on page 16. A new series – kicked off by Bunny Suraiya with her Postcard from Paris in the Summer issue – continues with postcards from two other writers about their experiences in Myanmar and Florence (p 12).

Pictured at the base of the Grande- Dixence Dam in the Swiss Alps. How much do you know about Spanish wines? Not too much? Sovna Puri shines a spotlight on Spain and fills us in with all that we didn’t know (p 22). Can wine and art go hand in hand? Yes, says Steven Spurrier on page 28, especially if you happen to be Peter Femfert of Fattoria Nittardi in Tuscany.

Marisa D’Vari analyses a new trend (p 32) as the wines of Sicily become sommelier favourites and show up increasingly on restaurant wine lists. Why do Chablis and Chardonnay always go together? Master of Wine, Rosemary George tells us why and what makes them unique (p 38). As always, there’s much more to read in these pages and on the Sommelier India website. Please contact me with your feedback at rks@ sommelierindia.com. Although I cannot respond individually to all the emails I receive, I read them all and look forward to receiving them.

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 1 76 Volume 15 Issue 4 Autumn 2019

VOL 15 ISSUE 4, AUTUMN 2019 `250 Founder Reva K Singh contents Publisher Shiv B Singh Advisory Council Dhruv M Sawhney – New Delhi 08 OENOPHILES’ NOTEBOOK Steven Spurrier – London News, views and trends for the Ravi Viswanathan – Singapore wine buff 42 Sonal Holland – Mumbai Editor in Chief Reva K Singh 12 FROM MYANMAR AND Chief Copy Editor Bunny Suraiya FLORENCE Tastings Co-ordinator Gagan Sharma Postcards from Carol Wright and Brinda Gill on their travels Correspondents – India Raghu Bahadur, Brinda Gill, Aditi Pai, Kaveri Ponnapa, Ruma Singh 14 FÊTE DE VIGNERON 50 SURGING AHEAD 74 QUALIA RESTAURANT Correspondents – Overseas Renu Chahil-Graf attends the Fête wines have established Gauri Devidayal reviews Rahul Renu Chahil-Graf – EU, Rosemary de Vignerons in Vevey in Switzerland their own individual styles without Akerkar’s long awaited Mumbai George – UK, Mira Advani and comes away impressed reference to other regions, writes restaurant Honeycutt – US, Jancis Robinson – UK, Michèle Shah, Alessandra Rosemary George Piubello – , Steven Spurrier – 16 IS THERE A FEMININE STYLE 76 PARTNERS IN WINE UK, Carol Wright – UK OF ? 56 WELCOME TO SULA Carol Wright on how wine Contributing writers Shoba Narayan is attracted by 22 SPEAKING OF SPANISH Brinda Gill describes the and food are paired at London’s Alok Chandra, Roopa Gulati, Suneeta S. Kanga, Shoba Narayan, owned or run by women WINES progressive growth of Sula’s Cinnamon Club Gagan Sharma winemakers Sovna Puri highlights the wide pioneering wine tourism initiatives Administration and Accounts variety in Spain’s grapes and wine and is your guide to a unique, 80 WINE BASICS Harendra Singh 18 TO VISIT producing regions unforgettable holiday How to order wine at a restaurant Design Inkspot Inc Jancis Robinson on the increase in Layout Artist T M Jose wine tourism and the newly launched 28 WINE AND ART IN 60 – AN IDEA WHOSE 81 PHOTO FINISH Printed at ranking of the best vineyards Steven Spurrier visits Peter Femfert TIME HAS COME Snapshots from our Photo Album EIH Ltd, Unit Press, Plot no. 22, Sector 5, IMT Manesar, who combines his two passions, art Gagan Sharma visits the Sherry Haryana - 122050 and winemaking at Nittardi Triangle and gives us the lowdown 82 GLOSSARY on a great wine style that deserves Of foreign terms and wine jargon Sommelier India is a controlled 38 circulation quarterly produced by 32 SICILY IN THE SPOTLIGHT! far more love than it gets CMI, Consolidated Media Int, Marisa D’Vari explains how quality C-320, Defence Colony, New Delhi – 110 024, India. T +91-11-2433-1013. over quantity has turned Sicilian 66 UNDERSTANDING E [email protected]. wines into sommelier favourites 32 John Leese offers a primer on W www.sommelierindia.com. Mexican Tequila, including recipes Subscription: One year `1000. 38 WHAT MAKES CHABLIS 42 CLUB CLASS and the brands available in India Two years `2000. Three, `3000 UNIQUE AMONG Vignobles and Signatures is an The views expressed in the CHARDONNAYS? exclusive club of 17 top French 70 SPICE ODYSSEY publication are the writers’ own and not necessarily those of the Rosemary George on the wine-and-spirits producing families. During her visit to India, Chef Julia publishers. inside story of this chameleon Ruma Singh attends their 35th Komp spoke to Kaveri Ponnapa but versatile grape anniversary celebrations in Bordeaux about discovering spices, life in a 70 ON THE COVER Photo courtesy: Recaredo Vineyards restaurant kitchen and teamwork

2 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 3 publications. Her first book, “The Gagan Steven Vanishing Kodavas”, is an extensive Sharma Spurrier is a cultural study of the Kodava people. is a certified world-renowned www.kaveriponnapa.com sommelier from the British wine expert. contributors Court of Master A member of the Sommelier India Wine Magazine is written by some of the best wine writers in the world. Sovna Puri is , UK, and holds a Diploma Sommelier India Advisory Council, he Our cast of writers includes wine experts, wine and food writers, professional journalists a Wine and Spirits from the London based, WSET. is consultant editor of wine as well as emerging writers. Part of our publishing mission is to encourage wine writing in consultant with Gagan learnt his trade in Australia, magazine and founder of the Académie years of experience with a Masters degree in Hospitality du Vin and Christie’s Wine Course. In India and we regard our stable of regular contributors as our most valuable resource. in India, UK Management (specialising in wines) addition to authoring and co-authoring and . She has successfully from Victoria University, Melbourne. several wine books, his autobiography, Marisa D’Vari, UK’s wine writers. She contributes to and the creative arts – film, jazz and completed the Level 4 Diploma in He reserves a soft corner for Barolos, “Wine – A Way of Life” was released DipWSET and Decanter magazine and decanter.com book festivals. These can be read on Wines & Spirits from the Wine & , Australian reds and New Zealand in London in June 2018 and in Delhi Certified Sommelier and writes a blog, www.tastelanguedoc. renuwrites.com Spirit Education Trust, London. Sauvignon Blancs. He is lucky to in November 2018. Earlier this year, through the Court of blogspot.com. Altogether Rosemary has This certification makes her one of have married his passion with his job, he launched the prestigious imprint, Master Sommeliers, written 13 books, most recently, “The Shoba a handful of Indians who hold the working as a wine educator Académie du Vin Library. Steven has is a Manhattan-based specialist in rare Wines of the Languedoc” published Narayan is qualification. She has also completed and sommelier at Wi-Not Beverage been mmortalized in the movie, “The and fine wines who writes for London’s in 2018, and a third edition of “The an award-winning the WSET Educator Programme and Solutions. When not working, Judgement of Paris.” Financial Times, Robb Report, Quarterly Wines of Chablis and the Grand author and earned the WSET Certified Educator he enjoys his time trekking in the Review of Wines, and the San Francisco Auxerrois”, published in June 2019, by columnist and title (one of three in India) along Himalayas and chasing historic sites. Rojita Tiwari Chronicle among dozens of others. She Infinite Ideas. the author of four books. She has with the prestigious post nominal, Gagan is the coordinator of the is an established wine is a judge for the International Wine written about wine and spirits for a DIPWSET. In this issue she writes Académie du Vin/Sommelier India and spirits writer, & Spirits Competition as well as the Brinda Gill number of publications including about Spanish wines. Tasting Panel. wine taster and International Wine Challenge in has a graduate Mint Lounge and Sommelier India. She journalist with 13 London and consults with restaurants degree in Economics is passionate about wines preferring Jancis Ruma Singh years experience. She is also the founder and wineries around the world. (Hons) from floral Alsatian wines that go with Robinson MW writes about wine of “Drinks & Destinations”, India’s Lady Shri Ram her vegetarian diet. She talks to wine is editor, author on her dedicated leading beverage platform specializing Gauri College, New Delhi, and a masters experts at the Podcast, and co-author of wine website, in drinks, travel and hospitality themed Devidayal is co- from Gokhale Institute, Pune. One of (www.indianwinepodcast.com). several authoritative ‘Between the content and curated events. Connect founder of Mumbai’s her major interests is discovering the Shoba graduated from the Columbia books on wine. Her most recent book Wines’ at rumasingh.com besides with her on drinksanddestinations@ award winning unique wealth of India through the Journalism School which awarded is also her shortest, “The 24-Hour contributing to several other gmail.com or on social media @ restaurants, Miss country’s living heritage, crafts and her a Pulitzer Fellowship. She is an Wine Expert”. Each of her books is publications and digital media, DrinksandDestinations. T and The Table (recently honoured people. She enjoys writing on these alumnus of Mount Holyoke College, recognized as a standard reference both Indian and international. A by Wine Spectator for its wine list) and subjects and travelling. Brinda is the South Hadley, Massachusetts and worldwide. In 2003, she was awarded former president and committee Carol Wright culinary event space Magazine Street Pune correspondent for Sommelier India Women’s Christian College, Chennai. an OBE by Queen Elizabeth. Jancis member of the Bangalore Wine is a freelance writer Kitchen and Bakery and Mag St Bread magazine. writes daily for her award- winning Club, she is currently on the board based in the UK Co. Gauri completed WSET Level 3 Kaveri website, JancisRobinson.com, weekly of the gastronomic society, Chaîne but travelling with distinction and is responsible for the Renu Chahil Ponnapa is for The Financial Times, and bi-monthly des Rôtisseurs, India chapter. She the world. Carol restaurants’ wine lists with their in-house Graf is a writer an author and for a column that is syndicated around has completed her Wine & Spirits writes extensively on food, wine and sommelier. She has been a jury member based in France, a independent the world. In a single week in April Education Trust (WSET) Level 3 restaurants and has written 30 books of the India Wine Awards for the last two stone’s throw from writer based in 2016, she was presented with France’s qualifications with distinction and on food and travel. She has been the years. Swiss vineyards. Bengaluru. Kaveri graduated from Officier du Mérite Agricole, the done the WSET Wine Educators chairman of the British Guild of Travel One of the first Inspired by her career with the Lady Shri Ram College, New Delhi, German VDP’s highest honour and course. She is also a member of the Writers twice, is a member of the Society women Masters of United Nations, she travels frequently and took a Master’s Degree in Social her fourth US James Beard Award. UK-based Circle of Wine Writers. of Authors, and chairperson of local Wine, Rosemary between continents to discover new Anthropology at SOAS, University of In 2018 she launched her all- purpose history and environmental societies. George is highly and lesser known wines. Her writing London. Her articles on food, wine, mouth-blown 1 Collection . Carol has recently helped set up a local regarded among the focuses on the interplay between wine travel and heritage appear in leading group.

4 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 5 oenophile’s readers write Tips, news and trends for the wine enthusiast Indian chefs in to chill it. The popped Compiled by Reva K. Singh Switzerland like gunfire in the empty notebook During a weekend getaway crisp air. The wine’s bubbles for the Cornell Club of pricked through our parched Switzerland at the Grand throats. It was the most Bouvier & Fils, Hotel Kronenhof, I casually exquisitely chilled drink on Chablis Premier asked the general manager, that cloudless blue ice day. Which Wines? Marc Eichenberger, if he had Finishing our sandwiches Crus been to India. Yes, came the and fruit, our solitary bliss EDITOR’S PICKS prompt reply, to Dehradun. was disturbed by bullets hablis in Burgundy, Dehradun?! Not Rajasthan splintering off the ice around Moët Impérial Brut Cwhich is one of the most or Kerala? No, only to Vana us as some local hunters famous wine names in the Wellness Retreat, he replied. aimed at solitary birds. s we step into the sporting a large letter I to world, is 100% Chardonnay. Vana had been highly Hiding our modesty with AFestive Season, our highlight the historic Moët Forty vineyards are classified recommended by a friend glasses and picnic thoughts turn naturally to Impérial relationship between Premier Cru, while seven are as a calming antidote to pack, we beat a hasty clothes celebratory drinks. What can Napoléon Bonaparte and Grands Crus. Produced the stress of everyday life. repossessing retreat back to be better than champagne? Jean-Remy Moët, grandson of in the northernmost part Taking his friend’s advice, port and our cruise ship! Moët & Chandon has just the House’s founder. The first of Burgundy, Chablis he arrived at Vana in – Carol Wright released a limited-edition shipment of Moët Impérial wines are subtly austere Dehradun. So impressed was Oxford, UK of its signature brut was timed to coincide with in style. The grapes are he by the experience and the champagne created in 1869, the centennial of Napoléon pressed and fermented cuisine he enjoyed there that A Bordeaux gem Moët Impérial to mark its Bonaparte’s birth. Seductive, in stainless-steel tanks he invited Executive Chef The article on Chateau Biac 150th anniversary. The new richly favourful and smooth for 10 months. to Rajesh Sharma and his team Indian chefs from Vana in the kitchens of the Grand Hotel Kronenhof was very informative I learnt release has a redesigned label palate, with a lively bead. produce a palatable, to cook for a season at his from woolly hats to gloves so much from it. It’s truly golden-yellow wine five-star hotel in Pontresina, Picnicing in the and sturdy boots. It was a a gem! I was inspired to Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino with a harmonious near glitzy St. Moritz. The frozen Antarctic fine day; the sun bounced visit and may plan our next balance between cuisine was a great success Greenland is virtually back off the ice mirror. It holiday there. astello Banfi is a family- Brunello di Montalcino is ripe, orchard fruits with hotel guests as well as an island ice block set became so hot we discarded – Shashi Sharma, via email Cowned vineyard estate and a robust wine, a rich garnet and crisp, refreshing, the staff, who were talking between the North Atlantic our clothing layers, one by located in Montalcino, in colour, with depth and minerality. It is about it for months. So and Arctic Oceans; its few one, leaving a kind of Hansel a small hill town in Tuscany complexity softened by an equally good as much so, that Marc has communities clinging to the and Gretel trail behind us. where Brunello elegant, lingering aftertaste. an aperitif or invited the same crew back at ice free shores. On a second Everything was completely grapes are transformed into a Traditionally paired with with seafood, sushi and Feedback the Grand Hotel Kronenhof visit by cruise ship one June, I still, silent and frozen. We world-class wine. It is perhaps game, red meats, hearty stews white meat in a sauce If you have a comment on from 10 to 14 March 2020! warned my husband to dress found some hilly folds and a story or a question about the most respected and powerful cheeses such as or a goat cheese salad. – Renu Chahil-Graf warmly for a walk (there are cracks in the ice and settled wine, we’d like to hear of Italy. Aged for a total of Parmigiano Reggiano, or try Imported by Tetrad Global from you. Write to us at Divonne-les-Bains, no roads) to explore inland down to our picnic. C218 Defence Colony, New up to four years, including a Rogan Josh that isn’t chilli Beverages. Price in Karnataka France and have a picnic. First we ground our Delhi 110024 or email us at a minimum of two years in hot. Imported by Brindco. Rs 4,400 and in Maharashtra Read the full story at www. We set off togged up like bottle of champagne into [email protected]. , Castello Banfi Price in Delhi Rs 8,860. Rs 7,132. sommelierindia.com – Editor an Antarctic expedition the thousand-year-old ice

6 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 7 The Dijon International and Gastronomic different sectors attend the Spotlight on Mythbuster Fair. Said President Jean Sulphur does not cause Fair – an annual event in France Battault, “We are used to henin Blanc is an headaches; dehydration does. ince its origins in 1921, welcome as guest of honour Cincredibly diverse Wines with more than 20 ppm Sthe Dijon International a different country every . Typically, the (parts per million) have to be and Gastronomic Fair by year, and we are pleased to wine has floral aromas labelled, “contains sulfi tes”. However, if you really are Dijon Congrexpo has become receive India in November with apple and pear-like concerned about, or sensitive famous as the oldest and first 2019.’’ Dijon, the capital of flavours and assertive to sulphur, steer clear of international fair in France. In Burgundy, is the gateway to acidity. Thanks to its high them but keep in mind that 2013 the wine fair, Vinidivio some of the most famous acidity levels, Chenin the dried fruits you buy have four to ten times more sulfi tes was added to the Dijon Fair. vineyards of France. Sommelier Blanc grapes can be than wine. Sulphur isn’t a Several events are organised India arranged a wine tasting of vinified in a number of bad thing in wine; it’s used to kill unwanted bacteria and during the Fair such as wine Reva K. Singh flanked (left) by Communications Director, François Indian wines for the Vinidivio different styles from light Indian Chenin Blancs tasted by the AdV/SI Tasting Panel yeast. This ultimately stabilises tastings chaired by the well- Contet and (right) President, Dijon Congrexpo Jean Battault and their team during their visit to sparkling wines to dry, full- 1,300 years, Chenin most red wines, the drier team, who arrived after a temple visit with red tikkas on their foreheads the wine and allows it to last known French sommelier, Delhi. The tasting, which was bodied, still white wines Blanc is now grown in 23 styles have the same thirst longer. Every country has its Eric Goettelman and his panel the on- and off-trade of France, the gala dinner, La Paulée. much appreciated, comprised and off-dry or lusciously countries but most of all quenching freshness as an own rules. If you do have a of wine experts, a full day and an international wine Over 160,000 visitors and eight Indian wines including sweet botrytis-affected in South Africa where it’s ice-cold . Best drunk sensitivity, contact the winery directly about its use of dedicated to wine business for competition, culminating in some 600 exhibitors covering white, red and sparkling. dessert wines. Cultivated known as Steen. Usually well chilled, within three sulphites. in the since lighter in alcohol than years of the date.

WINE QUIZ INDIA WINE NEWS How much do you know? Crossword For Wine Lovers Five easy questions pearheaded by Master of to the best Indian and Exercise your grey cells working through this crossword. It will Wine, Sonal Holland, international wines available 1. Which is the most planted S sharpen your wine knowledge and is great fun to do ACROSS grape variety in the world? the India Wine Awards (now in the country. Sonal Holland 1 Made from frozen grapes in By Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS 5 Lowest ripeness on QmP scale in its third year) assessed over said, “India Wine Awards 7 Also known as the “Cream” of Cream Sherry 100 Indian and international stands committed to the wine 8 Famous river of Germany bordering France wines along with food and industry’s overall objective 9 Primary white grape in Champagne 2. Which champagne was 12 Method for making Asti served to guests at the 1981 wine pairings in late September of bringing more consumers 13 Famous sweet wine region of Bordeaux wedding of Prince Charles at The Leela Hotel, Mumbai. to wine and strengthening 15 As wine acid strength goes up this goes down and Lady Diana? 17 Happy product of fermentation Veuve Clicquot The event has established India’s importance on the 19 Italy’s highest wine quality level Moët & Chandon itself as the ultimate guide global wine map.” 20 Smells like wet old newspaper 21 Pine resin wine 3. Which of the following 22 Highest Village Classi cation in Champagne regions is not in North NEW PRODUCTS America? DOWN Yarra Valley, Napa Valley, Paso 2 Also known as Fume Blanc Robles, Russian River Valley What will they think of next? 3 One is made by a Tonnelier or Cooper 4. Which of the following Flat wine that can be posted in a letterbox! 4 Argentina’s go to Red Wine grape varieties is not used 6 Type of sugar in a sweet wine to produce champagne? These screwtop bottles have the same 750ml volume of a 8 Correct side of the guest for wine service , Chardonnay, 10 In Napa - Home of the “Bench” conventional glass wine bottle but have been flattened and , Pinot Noir 11 Napa Valley became one in 1981 and are 2 cm longer. Invented by UK based, Garçon Wines, 13 Fortifed wine from Jerez 5. What grape variety is the bottles are made from pre-existing, recycled, safe plastic, 14 Grape of most closely associated which does not affect the taste. Eco-friendly and cost 15 Famous cross grape of South Africa with Sherry? effective, flat wine bottles are both convenient and functional. 16 New York grape used for wine and juice A pallet loaded with flat bottle cases can carry 1,040 bottles 18 Major red grape of Airén of wine, compared with 456 round bottles. Ugni Blanc Answers on page 11 Credit: in the Mix Magazine www.ITMmag.com Answers on page 10

8 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 9 WINECLINIC for a day or two. This will What does it mean when prevent oxidation and someone says the wine has a Cheers to Chile! slow down the process that “sense of place”? Your Questions would eventually turn the When we say wine has a sense The recently conducted ‘Stars of Chile’ programme in Delhi augurs well for Indian wine into vinegar. You can of place we mean that where drinkers of premium as well as value-for-money wines Answered also use an aerosol of inert it comes from is very evident gas to spray inside an open in the style and the taste of n a continuous effort bottle of wine. Inert gas is the wine. The French term Ito share their 500-year heavier than air, so oxygen “” refers to the climate, old winemaking journey, is pushed out and the inert topographical and physical and spread the good word gas lies on top of the wine elements in the vineyard that about their quality produce, like a blanket. This will create the wine’s specific taste ProChile India and Wines preserve the wine for a week and sense of place. Just like of Chile hosted the “Stars of or so. I use a wine vacuum people, some grape varieties Chile” programme at The Line-up of sealer, such as Vacu Vin, pick up “accents” much more Leela Palace, New Delhi. Chilean wines even though it may be less quickly than others and to Chile is amongst the most tasted at the effective than inert gas. As a greater degree. , active promoters of wines in masterclass conducted by a last resort, you can always for example, is one of those the country, and thanks to Gagan Sharma cook with leftover wine or grapes that show more of a its efforts it’s now the third- at the Leela Palace hotel freeze it in ice cube trays and sense of place than others. biggest exporter to India. in Delhi use it in a punch or ! Nicolai Samsing, Director I’ve often wondered why of Wines of Chile Asia, and both value for money as well preferred source of amicable unique experience around What’s the reason for correct. Here’s the technical What is the best way to champagne bottles have a Aurelio Montes, who is the as premium wines. drops that enchant novices wines. We are sure that these swirling your glass of wine? explanation. The unit in wash wine glasses? Is a hollow at the bottom? What famed owner of Montes Undoubtedly, Chile has and experienced palates alike. two initiatives will, in the I don’t see people swirling which alcohol is measured dishwaser the answer? purpose does this serve? Wines and also the current set a very high benchmark for Samsing emphasised Chile’s long term, result in more and their glasses. for those advocating healthy As simple as it sounds, the Known as a punt, the large President of Wines of Chile, basic wines across the globe, increasing focus on India by more Indian wine consumers Swirling adds oxygen to the consumption is actually 10 best way to wash wine glasses indent at the bottom of briefly introduced the and made them approachable announcing the launch of two knowing about and drinking wine. When exposed to millilitres of pure alcohol. is by hand. Wash them in hot bottles has a programme and shared the with simple yet attractive new projects. “The Wines of in the same way oxygen, wine changes and So to work out how many water only, rinsing and re- definite purpose other than key attributes that make Chile labelling and affordable Chile Academy will replicate as it is enjoyed in many other evolves even in the glass. units are in a glass requires rinsing them thoroughly and making it easier to hold the a unique wine destination. pricing. Wines from the house the successful educational countries around the world.” Unlike whisky, wine is a you to know how much let dry in the air. If detergent bottle, as you may have often In his usual humorous and of Valdivieso, Casa Marin, model of Chilean wines by Highlighting the volatile alcoholic beverage. alcohol is in the wine, and is required, because the heard. Bubbles create a lot educational style, Certified Cono Sur, Dalbosco, Koyle, partnering with the best wine importance of education, Getting a little oxygen in how much wine is in the glasses are particularly dirty of pressure – upto 90 lbs Sommelier and wine Baron Philippe de Rothschild, schools in the country. And, Montes added, “The only way your wine by swirling your glass. For example, a large or greasy or have lipstick or over 40 kg per bottle in educator, Gagan Sharma and Montes were showcased secondly, we plan to initiate to make people enjoy wine is glass allows the wine to glass of wine is commonly marks, use it sparingly some cases. The punt allows expounded further on Chile’s and highly rated at the tasting. cultural exchanges to create through education and Gagan breathe, so that it opens up 250 millilitres. If it’s a wine making sure all traces are for a more even distribution features, detailing its history, With a newfound regard for true ambassadors of Chile and Sharma has the knowledge and reveals its true aromas with 14% alcohol, it actually washed away. Detergent of that pressure, which European influences, unique its cool-climate Sauvignon its wines. For this, we will seek and the passion to make this and flavours. The idea is to contains 3.5 units, not one: or soap residue can impair decreases the chance of the coastline, the play of the Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot to take key opinion leaders happen. His master classes expose as much surface area the formula is millilitres of the formation of bubbles bottle exploding. Andes mountains, and how Noir, robust Carménère, and from the Indian market were both interesting and of wine as possible to oxygen. liquid (250) x alcohol (14) in sparkling wine. Washing — Reva K. Singh Chile has come to represent unique blends, Chile is a to Chile and offer them a educational.” Swirling helps in this. divided by 1000. stemware in a dishwasher is not always recommended Wine Quiz Answers How much alcohol is there How long can I keep a because, despite the squeaky 1. Cabernet Sauvignon Crossword Answers in a glass of wine? bottle of wine before it clean results, it often leaves 2. Bollinger ACROSS 9 Chardonnay 19 DOCG DOWN 8 Right 15 3. Yarra Valley 1 Eiswein 12 Charmat 20 TCA 2 Sauvignon Blanc 10 Rutherford 16 Concord The common misconception goes bad? a residue that can strongly 5 Kabinett 13 21 Retsina 3 11 AVA 18 4. Sauvignon Blanc that a glass of wine equals one You can keep a wine, tightly affect a wine’s aroma and 7 PedroXiménez 15 PH 22 Grandcru 4 13 Sherry 5. Palomino 8 Rhine 17 Alcohol 6 Fru 14 Ugni Blanc unit of alcohol is not entirely corked, in the refrigerator flavour.

10 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 11 POSTCARDFROMMYANMAR POSTCARDFROMFLORENCE

Pandaw 2, the boat that plies on the Irrawaddy, one of the world’s great rivers north of Mandalay

deck after dinner, again with a glass of Aythaya in hand. One experience we all recalled as very special was a late afternoon trip to the iconic U Bein Bridge. This teak bridge, the longest of its kind in the world, was built in 1849 and strides, some- what fragilely, across a lake. People come to walk across the narrow bridge and watch the sunset. We clambered into small kayak-like boats Satyajit S Gill and the boatmen paddled fter a day of sightseeing by trees, with panoramic View of Florence and the Arno river. The bridge in the Up a Lazy River foreground is the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge us expertly through clumps Ain Florence taking in its views. Welcoming us orth of Mandalay ing a path from gangplank its as one of the world’s great of lotus and water hyacinth wealth of history and art, its warmly in the garden was Nthe Irrawaddy River to fire, and music pealed out rivers slurped its way south angling to get the best sunset beautiful public sculptures, Giada Amadei, the ninth chandelier and wooden panzanella (salad) along with spreads out wide and shal- into the dark, warm air. all around us. view. The sinking sun silhou- stunning architecture – generation member of the rafters across the ceiling bread and their own olive oil. low, skirting huge sand- Finally, we passengers were etted those on the bridge into specially the fantastic Duomo Landi family who own the of the dining room. The Bottles of an easy drinking banks. I was travelling up it led ashore along the lan- y the flickering firelight, anonymous black matchstick cathedral and its Bell Tower villa as well as 110 acres kitchen had an old hearth 100% white and on Pandaw 2, a river cruise tern-lit path and settled in Bwe recalled highlights of people. As we waited for the – its vibrant piazzas, the buzz of property that includes with a stone sink and copper a red wine blend of 80% boat based on the old style the chairs. Drinks and cana- our cruise: the hundreds of critical moment to get the of stores at Ponte Vecchio forests, vineyards and olive vessels. She invited us to be Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, and boats that plied the river a pés were brought. I chose a temples spearing up through best sunset shot, a boat car- bridge, the beauty of the groves close by. seated at the dining area of 5% Colorino produced at century ago (having been chilled white Aythaya wine; the jungle at Bagan; the rying Pandaw crew members statue of David – a marble the kitchen for a meal that their winery were at the table sent out flat-packed from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc amusing riverside souvenir paddled among us handing masterpiece of Renaissance fter a day on our feet, she had prepared herself! for easy refills. Wrapping Glasgow) with teak veran- and Chenin Blanc made at sellers from whom we bought out glasses of champagne to sculpture – and finally, the Asipping on a cool We were served a delicious up the meal was a delicious dahs lined with rattan chairs a Myanmar winery in the our floaty trousers, tops and toast the dying day’s drama. views of its dreamy cityscape and most refreshing light choice of vegetarian and apple crumble. reminiscent of an Agatha south of the Shan state. The longhi, the ubiquitous Bur- It completed a perfect and from the vantage point of prosecco and fresh orange non-vegetarian dishes of Well satiated with a heart Christie Nile adventure. white was throat-enlivening mese wrap-round skirt; the memorable experience. Piazzale Michelangelo, juice from Sicilian blood fresh taste, texture and and stomach full of happy One soft, silky evening Pan- citrus with tones of grape- visit to a century-old golf Back on the Irrawaddy our hearts were filled with oranges, we listened to Giada colour. There was green pea memories, I bought some daw 2 fetched up mid-river fruit and gooseberry and club by pony trap; rickshaw sandbank, a gong announc- appreciation for the heritage give us a short history of her tagliatelle with Tuscan ragout olive oil and Rose of May alongside a swathe of grey went extremely well with the rides through a market town; ing dinner cut through our of Florence. family and the villa whose and tagliatelle in fresh tomato scented lotion to take home. sand. The sun disappeared local curries served on Pan- watching the amazing contor- conversation and we wan- In the evening we made origins go back to the 13th sauce, chicken cooked in Their fragrance wafts me back behind a gilded pagoda sil- daw. The Aythaya white and tions of villagers working an dered back down the lantern our way to Villa Il Leccio at century. She peppered her Chianti wine with roasted deliciously to a lovely evening houette on the far shore its sister red had proved hap- elephant costume to make lane to dinner on Pandaw. Strada In Chianti, a lovely informal talk with anecdotes potatoes and salad, mixed spent at Strada In Chianti. while the crew carried the py travelling companions as the great beast dance – a seri- The crew doused the fire, drive through quiet tree- and humour, making us feel vegetables parmigiana with — Brinda Gill rattan chairs and tables on we travelled up the Irrawad- ous inter-village competition scooped up chairs and tables lined roads with views of the at home right away. to the virgin sand. A fire pit dy. Tonight it was extra spe- activity; visiting gold workers, and in minutes there was gently rolling countryside of She then showed us around CONNECT WITH LOCALS Villa Il Leccio is open for wine dinners and B&B guests, except in was scooped out, chairs cir- cial, sipped by the firelight marble carvers and weavers nothing left to show we had Tuscany. In less than half an her home with its living room winter, on prior reservation. For details visit: www.agriturismoilleccio. cled it, a bar appeared, doz- while gossiping about the in Mandalay, and watching ever been there. hour we were at a charming furnished wirh an old fresco it/. Brinda Gill’s “Connect With Locals” experience in Italian Discovery by Trafalgar Tours, London included a Be My Guest dinner ens of lanterns were lit, lin- day’s temple and market vis- classical dancing on the sun — Carol Wright villa, set in premises shaded of the countryside; a Murano ,

12 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 13 Luckily, more than ‘Once in a Lifetime’! Renu Chahil-Graf attends the Fête de Vignerons 2019 in Vevey, Switzerland, and comes away impressed, exhilarated and moved

he Fête de The day performance the labour of the land sausages, prizewinning Vignerons (Festival in the arena revealed is celebrated. Wine, he Iranian food and more. Tfor Winegrowers) costumes in all their detail explains, is an essential Numerous processions in Vevey that I attended – while the night show part of Swiss heritage, an throughout the day and A bird’s-eye view of the spectator stands and performers at the Fête des Vignerons show. Clockwise from left below: A parade of on 1st August, the Swiss stunned with colour. The all-encompassing tradition, evening continue the Swiss cows bedecked in finery, Francois Margot, Abbé-President of the Confrérie des Vignerons, women dressed as birds and dancing the cancan in colourful costumes National Day, brought spectacular performances, which is expressed at the enchantment. Free music many surprises. Although from formal uniformed Fête through images, and movies top it all. it is billed as a festival presentations, to the dance music, art and emotion. But is this a once in attended just once in a of the cards and women a lifetime event? Not lifetime since the 18th dancing the cancan, the ach day, a wine from quite, says 80-year-old century, in actual fact visuals, music and song Ea different region of grandfather Monsieur people flock to this village were a treat to watch. Both Switzerland is the focus Jean, who has participated every 15 or 20 years to shows concluded with an of events and tastings. in the Fête since he was experience the festivities – impressive fashion show On this day, the wines of a child! And now his and the wine. by Swiss cows, bedecked in Shaffhausen were being granddaughter, Salomé, At noon – vroom, vroooom their headgear and finery, celebrated. Of the 490 proudly models her bird – the Swiss air force was gliding through the arena acres under cultivation in costume and points out performing noisy antics to the calming sounds of this canton, three-fourths her mother, resplendent in the sky, caught on Swiss Alpine horns! are devoted to the pinot in a cancan outfit. As the camera only by skilled The festival celebrates noir grape that thrives evening draws to a close photographers! Swissair, winemakers who have in the cool climate and we realise that we have the airline, in contrast been carefully reviewed gravelly soil. The white, Le witnessed a unique village executed gentle twists and and selected through a Blanc de Noir, has delicate and family event, with all turns over the lake, with formal process lasting five aromas of apple and peach; the locals participating in an applauding audience years. In a conversation the with an aroma of some capacity or the other. below. The President with the Abbé-President berries and nuts is thought And despite having taken of Switzerland, no less, of the Confrérie des to pair well with Asian part in two performances addressed the gathering at Vignerons (organisers cuisine. in one day, they are the afternoon show, which of the event), François Crowds mill around the cheerful and energetic, was followed by another Margot emphasises that by lake tasting wine, exploring with an enthusiasm that is show after dark. honouring winemakers, food stands serving grilled infectious. v

14 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 15 grapes grown in our other vineyards. There is an intangible aspect to it.” Today, their portfolio of 14 pinot noirs, eight chardonnays, and one rosé is managed by a three- SHOBANARAYAN person winemaking team. They sell directly to describes wineries owned or run by women consumers and have a small high-quality production winemakers of about 10,000 to 12,000 cases. The average price of their wines is below $100. Anisya’s blend is $85. Lynmar is also one of the few estates in Napa that has a live-in bungalow which guests can rent, to stay Cathy Corison, who has lived and worked in Napa for over 30 years, overnight in the middle of the vineyard. Their in- is one of the stalwarts of Napa Valley Is there a feminine house restaurant uses seasonal vegetables from their extensive gardens to offer food and wine pairings. “Since the vegetables are grown in the same style of winemaking? land where the vines are grown, the messaging to the senses is much more than words can say,” says Anisya. “Wine and food then become a physical and emotional experience rather than an intellectual arvest season is in full swing amidst than Eric Asimov of The New York Times. The one. We serve paired wines from three different the reflecting light and golden wines in her label, Corison Wines have won vineyards, each with its own personality.” Hsunshine that spills through Napa scores of awards including a 2019 nomination as Anisya agrees that there are very few women in the and Sonoma. This undulating land and its fertile a finalist at the prestigious James Beard Awards business. The saving grace is that it bounty have enchanted travellers and tourists, for outstanding wines. Given that most California is dominated by families. Over 90% of the wineries wine collectors and students ever since Robert wines have alcohol levels edging up to 16%, her are family-owned. “When you have families, women Mondavi made his way to what was then farm wines have outstanding and, for today, almost get into it,” says Anisya. “Yes, you have to be a little Anisya Fritz grew land. Over Labour Day – the first weekend in unheard of levels of low alcohol, 13.2%. I tried better than everyone else to be noticed. But also, are twice the cost of pinot noir grapes.” up in India and is September, scores of tourists made the pilgrimage her 2015 and 2016 and found them to be people make way for excellence.” Interestingly it is in these big bold Napa Cabs that co-owner of Lynmar Estate with her to scores of wineries, spreading blankets on the brilliantly aromatic with flavours of coffee bean, However, you have to get your feet in the door first. female winemakers have made their names. Which husband, Lynn grass and enjoying picnics with tastings of not just licorice, cherry and minerals. “Most winemakers begin as cellar rats,” says Deepak brings us back to the question about whether there the chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon that are The petite winemaker says that she makes, Gulrajani, owner and winemaker of Nicholson is a “feminine” style of wine. Most people associate the signature of California but also select “Cabernets that are both powerful and elegant Ranch, an estate winery on the border of Napa the feminine style with elegant wines that open up pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. because that’s what I like to drink. I want them to and Sonoma. “It involves a lot of physical labour, to soft aromas and a long finish. But the point is By the time you read this, dear reader, the be full of life. Some might call my style ‘feminine’.” lifting and carrying. There exists the possibility that that cult women winemakers like Heidi Barrett grapes would have been crushed and barrelled. Today, about 12% of the wineries are owned when owners think of that job, they say, I want a were as “ballsy” as any male winemaker. So then the Lynmar is But amongst the many wineries I visited, I found and operated by women. They include powerful man. The feeling that men will do all that dirty work real question is not whether women make different one of the few myself attracted to those that were owned or run and storied women like Anne Colgin, Merry but women may not. So there are less opportunities wines than men but whether they make wines at by women winemakers. Which brings us to the Edwards, Anne Turley and Heidi Barrett but also given to women in the beginning.” all. With a growing interest in wine, and with more estates in Napa question: Is there a feminine style of winemaking? newer and boutique wineries. Lynmar Estate, for Gulrajani produces 5,000 cases of award-winning women collecting wine, it stands to reason that they that has a live- Cathy Corison is one of the stalwarts of Napa, instance, is co-owned by an Indian woman. sustainably produced wines. All his wines are ought to be represented in the industry too. in bungalow having lived and worked here for over 30 years. Anisya Fritz grew up all over India as an “army unfiltered, dry-farmed and made using gravity flow “Women have better palates than men,” says “Cathy Corison is my heroine,” says Jancis brat” as she calls it. She and her husband, Lynn techniques. His Nirvana pinot noirs sell for $90. Deepak. “Their sense of taste and aroma is better. which guests Robinson. “She makes such great wine – the Fritz bought 100 acres in Russian River and make “In California, pinot noirs are cheaper than And winemaking is all about taste and aroma.” can rent, to essence of Napa Valley minus the bludgeoning remarkable pinot noirs including one named cabernet sauvignon,” he says. “The best pinot noirs With the course in the reputed UC stay overnight force, plus a sensible price tag.” after Anisya. sell for $175 but the best Cabs like Screaming Eagle Davis churning out more and more women in the middle Corison has been called a “national treasure”, “Shaping a wine is an energetic process,” says sell for at least $2,500. I heard of this unknown Cab graduates each other, perhaps the day when women and “among the greatest producers of cabernet Anisya. “The wines from my vineyard tend to be that is going to be priced at $3,500. Among other take the lead on wines is not far off. of a vineyard sauvignon in Napa Valley today”, by none other extremely feminine. Much more velvety than the reasons, that is because the base Napa Cab grapes I am hopeful. v

16 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 17 JANCISROBINSON on the increase in wine tourism and the newly launched ranking of the best vineyards

Vineyards to Visit

Photo: Sara Matthews

ou are probably well aware of the managing director of the events and exhibitions words the overall experience for the consumer. around the world will know his animated father Château Smith Haut World’s 50 Best Restaurants. It’s side of William Reed, the company probably It helps if you start with a great wine but it’s is José Alberto based at the original family winery Lafitte in Bordeaux was the highest-ranking an annual hullabaloo dreamt up best known in wine circles for having acquired not about that alone. An amazing experience will in the much warmer outskirts of the city of the French entry Yin 2002 by Chris Maillard and Joe the International Wine Challenge competition. attract tourists to a vineyard where they will be Mendoza better than Sebastián who has been Warwick of Restaurant magazine in the UK. In (They sold off their various drinks trade able to share in the magic of the destination and devoting his time to establishing this brand new the years since then it has been hugely successful, publications, and indeed Restaurant magazine – become an advocate for that wine and region.” vineyard and winery, with a restaurant based on attracting more publicity and sponsors than you moving with the times, don’t you know). Tourism is indeed becoming an increasingly locally-sourced produce, needless to say. can shake a stick at. Reed described the motivation behind the important element in what the wine world It’s a fairly questionable concept. Every year awards thus: “Wine is produced in almost can deliver (even if travel may run counter to arzón is the brainchild of Argentine panels of judges of very varying abilities and 60 countries around the world and is hugely many current concerns about sustainability billionaire, oil magnate Alejandro experience choose and rank 50 restaurants important to many national economies. In the and the parlous state of the planet). There are GBulgheroni whose gravity-fed winery around the world so that the ‘winner’ can be USA alone some 17% of all leisure travellers conferences on wine tourism around the globe, was opened as recently as 2016 (although the trumpeted and help to fill acres of newsprint and engage in culinary – and wine-related travel. it seems. Wineries are encouraged to have a fine first vines went in, on 1,000 separate plots over cyberspace. But no single individual can have The World’s Best Vineyards to Visit not only restaurant as well as a beautifully appointed cellar 200ha if you please, in 2008). The restaurant eaten even once at all 50 establishments within highlights these amazing destinations from door where visitors can buy wines to take home boasts Argentina’s most famous chef, Francis the previous 12 months, let alone properly around the globe but it will also help raise their as a particularly delicious souvenir of what, it is Mallmann as consultant. And there is already a Wine is monitored their relative performance. How on profile amongst national and international hoped, was a great visit. These new awards are hotel and golf course. produced in earth does one rate a simple but divine mom tourists alike. In an age where the next presumably being presented to the wine world fielded a full five of the top and pop restaurant against one that is aiming for generation is looking for extraordinary and as something that will result in both glory and 10 ‘vineyards’ (actually, wine estates) in this almost 60 Michelin stars? authentic experiences, these wineries are increased sales. new ranking. Numbers three and four were countries It’s almost as ludicrous as doing the same for simply a must-visit!” The top two places in this year’s inaugural in Spain (López de Heredia) and around the individual wines, for heaven’s sakes! Hang on, The structure of the awards is pretty similar to awards went to very new South American (Quinta do Crasto). The highest-ranking I’ve just remembered that Wine Spectator comes the restaurant ones: the plan is to hold awards estates: Sebastián Zuccardi’s dramatically French entry was way down at number 16: world and up with a Top 100 every year. Ah well… ceremonies around the world, and panels of modern winery and one high up in Argentina’s Château Smith Haut Lafitte, whose owners is hugely Now we have the World’s Best Vineyards, an regional judges are invited to submit suggestions. Uco Valley in first place followed by Bodega Florence and Daniel Cathiard fully deserve important to annual ranking of 50 of them launched under According to Reed, “the judges are not given a Garzón’s extraordinarily ambitious winery and recognition for all they have done at this estate many national the Rubens frescoes on the ceiling of London’s specific set of criteria as that makes the output vineyards on the south eastern tip of just south of Bordeaux, including building a Banqueting House, in Whitehall in July this year. very formulaic. It is about the balance between in Maldonaldo. Sebastián is the third generation fine hotel, restaurant and spa and pioneering economies The scheme was dreamt up by Andrew Reed, the site, the experience and the wine, in other of winemaking Zuccardis. Many wine lovers a holistically sustainable approach.

18 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 19 THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

Surprisingly, only two American names appear in the list, considering that Napa Valley has been by far and away the most successful wine region at Subscribe attracting well-heeled tourists to India’s premier WINE magazine

And give the best on-going gift that will There are only seven French entries in the awards’ keep you remembered round the year list of the top 50 vineyards. It’s extraordinary, when you think about it, that the country that supposedly SPECIAL OFFER ending 31st December, 2019 produces the most fine wine than any other is not Sign up for a THREE-year subscription and gift a better geared to tourism. (It was reckoned a dirty TWO-year subscription to a wine-loving friend for FREE word for a long time in Bordeaux.)

YOUR DETAILS ut, perhaps even odder, considering the Mr/Ms/ First name: ...... reputation (and reality in my experience) Surname: ...... Bof Italian hospitality, is that there is only one Italian name in the top 50: ’s Address: ...... glamorous newish establishment in the Tuscan countryside south of Florence. That’s half as many Tel: ...... Mobile ...... as the number of Uruguayan wine estates. Email: ...... I was also surprised to see only two American names – Robert Mondavi and Opus One - in To give a gift subscription the list, considering the fact that the Napa Valley Mr/Ms/ First name: ...... has been by far and away the most successful Surname: ...... wine region at attracting tourists, and quite well- heeled tourists at that. Address: ...... All of which points to the fact that the list, like its restaurant counterpart, provides ample Tel: ...... Mobile ...... opportunity for discussion, criticism and Email: ...... improvement – but that is presumably the point. I suspect William Reed are on to a commercial YES! I would like to subscribe for: winner with this new venture. 2-year subscription (8 issues) Pay only `2,000 In this launch year, the lead sponsor was the 3-year subscription (12 issues) Pay only `3,000 International Wine Challenge, also owned by 3-year subscription PLUS 2-year GIFT subscription William Reed. But, as Andrew Reed says, “The Pay only `3,000 instead of `5,000. concept is to raise the profile of wine tourism around the world, so yes, I would hope that there are PAYMENT MODE some very effective sponsorship opportunities.”v Cheque or demand draft made payable to Sommelier India More at JancisRobinson.com, including Send completed form to: accounts of visits to the two winning South American Austrian wines are invitations. of nature, Austrian wines proudly stand Sommelier India, wineries. For the full list of the top 50 vineyards see C 320 Defence Colony, www.worldsbestvineyards.com Simply open a cellar door to meet the among the world’s greatest wines and New Delhi 110 024. most approachable international stars are poured at renowned restaurants all imaginable: the great wines of Austria. over the globe. Produced by true artisans respectful austrianwine.com

Sommelier India Weinkeller.indd 1 21.02.19 08:24 WINESOFSPAIN There is more to Spain than Sangria! Sovna Puri highlights the wide variety in Spain’s grapes and wine producing regions

Clusters of grapes ention Spain, and the Tomatina festival and bullfights come to mind, and MAssociation Football or fútbol, the national passion. And perhaps clinking glasses of Sherry. Or Sangria. But not a wide variety of wines. has been largely overshadowed internationally by the sheer quality of French wines and the volume of Italian wines. Other than Sherry, Spanish vino is virtually unknown, especially in India. Spain has an abundance of native grape varieties, many not found elsewhere. The black grapes most commonly used are Tempranillo, , Garnacha and Monastrell, while the whites are Airén, Viura, Albariño and Palomino – the last is the grape for dry Sherry. International varieties are also gaining importance, resulting in a diversity as rich as the regions – the espumosos or sparkling wines from the Mediterranean coast, the reds of the Ebro ranging from the bold to the prized dry, the dessert wines of Andalusia and the light, heady whites of the northwest. Spain has a tradition of ageing its wines,

Horse-drawn ploughs and its wine laws reflect this with precise are employed at ageing guidelines for its reds, whites and rosés. Recaredo Family Generally, red wines require more ageing than Vineyards in the Penedès region to the others, though this can vary from region to reduce soil compaction region. Joven refers to wines with no oak ageing Photo courtesy: Recaredo

22 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 23 Photo courtesy: Recaredo

requirements, while Crianza refers to wines the style is moving towards the more subtle that must undergo ageing for a minimum of flavours of French oak. two years, with six months in oak. Reserva and New regulations have come into force in Gran Reserva are aged for three and five years, Rioja: single vineyard wines are now recognised, including 12 months and 18 months of oak Spain has a a new sparkling wine designation called ageing, respectively. Denominación de Origen “Espumosos de Calidad de Rioja” has been Calificada (DOCa) denotes the highest quality tradition of introduced, Gran Añada being the topmost level in the Spanish wine classification. ageing its wines level. Aurus Allende DOCa and Monte Real Rioja (ree-OH-hah) is one of Spain’s most and its wine DOCa, from Bodegas Riojana are two wines popular and famous wines, taking its name that stand out for me from Rioja – very complex, from the region of the same name, known even laws reflect perfectly balanced and wines you can write a to those who have little idea of Spanish vinos. this with story about. The better-known red Rioja is made from the precise ageing the dark-skinned Tempranillo grape. The rarer, guidelines riorat is a small wine region in white Rioja is made from the white grape, Viura. Catalunya in northeast Spain. Rioja is subdivided into three zones. Rioja Alta Here, very old vines from steep has high altitude vineyards and has a similar Pslopes of “llicorella” soil – a mix climate to Rioja Alavesa, with high limestone of red slate and mica – produce low yields of content in the soil. Here the main grape used dark-skinned Garnacha and Cariñena grapes. is Tempranillo. Rioja Oriental, aka Baja, comes Although a relative newcomer, Priorat has from vineyards with a warmer and drier climate, achieved international acclaim with some of the where the main grape is Garnacha, which loves world’s most expensive wines praised for their the heat, making wines fuller in body, compared very high quality, with complex, intense and to the other two sub zones. Freshly harvested concentrated flavours. Barrel ageing plays a very significant role in grape clusters from However, it is very rare to obtain such high compared to the First Growths of Bordeaux. Recaredo Turó d’en to Champagne. It is made with three local Finca Allende, located Mota single vineyard, Rioja. Traditionally, American oak barrels were in the hill town of quality from Garnacha. Due to steep slopes, Unico is its flagship wine produced with bush vines mainly grapes: , Xarel-lo and , to used, with pronounced oak flavours, but lately Briones in the Rioja Alta mechanisation is not possible, which results in only in the best vintages and aged for around 10 of Xarel-lo grapes, which Chardonnay and Pinot Noir may also the high prices – but also high quality. Apart years before release. Pago De Los Cappellanes trained up a stick be added. Most Cavas are dry and made by the from Rioja, Priorat is the only other region Reserva DO, which was recently announced , but have less acidity than a to hold DOCa classification. Les Terrasses as the top 100 wineries in the world by the Champagne, making them more easy-drinking. DOCa is owned by the celebrated winemaker, Wine & Spirits magazine, makes this red wine, Penedès in Catalunya is the largest and most Alvaro Palacios who, after spending two years super intense in terms of colour, structure and important DO and one of the most diverse at Château Petrus in Bordeaux, set up his own tannin content. These wines are bottled without since it includes red, white and rosé in all styles, wine production in Priorat. He is known to use filtering and left to age in their cellars, 33 feet although it is largely known for its huge Cava modern winemaking techniques and uses grapes below the ground. production. The foundation for this was laid mainly from very low yielding old vines, which Alejandro Fernandez, founder of Pesquera by Josep Raventós, the founder of Codorníu, guarantees fruit concentration and intensity in Bodega named after his hometown, played a who made the first bottle-fermented wine using his wines. Les Terrasses is a blend of Cariñena, pivotal role in the revival of Ribera del Duero native grapes. Codorníu is known for being Garnacha and and is a great reflection of as a region and helped acquire DO status for unconventional and was the first to introduce Priorat’s terroir. the red wines and rosados or rosés of Ribera. foreign grapes in its Cava. Freixenet and Ribera del Duero is home to two of Spain’s Denominación de Origen (DO) wines are Codorniu now rule the roost, and are the two best-known and probably most expensive restricted by specific grape varieties, , largest sparkling-wine producers in the world. red wines – Vega Sicilia and Pesquera made location and a certain minimum level of quality. The second boost to the Cava industry was from the Tempranillo grape, known here as Catalunya produces 95% of Cava, the fuelled by Miguel Torres, Spain’s largest and most Tinto Fino. The legendary Vega Sicilia is often Spanish sparkling wine and Spain’s answer iconic family-owned producer of premium wine

24 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 25 Torres Mas La Plana 2012. Only the most select Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from a small, 29 hectare vineyard are used to make strictly limited quantities of Torres’ most prestigious red wine Photos courtesy: Tempos Vega Sicilia Vega Tempos Photos courtesy:

and . Torres was the first in Spain to install home to the region’s local, aromatic Albariño the bulk wine category. The drought-resistant temperature controlled and stainless steel tanks, grape which produces a signature dry white Airén grape is behind most of them, producing thus making Penedès a very innovative region. wine. Located on the Atlantic coast, it receives dry, bland whites, which make them ideal for Although Cava quality varies from producer very high rainfall and cooling breezes, both into brandy. The use of Tempranillo, to producer, basic and high-quality Cavas are of which help retain the grape’s acidity. The locally known here as Cencibel, is also on the bunched together under Cava DO. Dissatisfied resulting wine is refreshing, high in flavour and increase. with this, nine of the best Cava producers alcohol. Laxas Albariño DO is a good example, Apart from the important and certified wine decided to leave the category. In April 2018 they with fruity and floral notes and good acidity. regions, the smaller bodegas or wine houses formally announced their own EU-recognised scattered over the whole of Spain produce sparkling-wine association called “Corpinnat” avarra is famous for its dry rosados Most Cavas value wines with a wide range of affordable, meaning “heart of Penedès”. The nine producers made from Garnacha, prized for are dry and easy drinking expressions that match well with account for only 1% of Cava production, but its thin skin, lending a lovely pink Spanish delicacies. Pair a patatas bravas or a made by the 30% of Gran Reserva Cava! Recaredo Cava is Ncolour to the wine. This grape pescaito frito with a refreshing Albariño from one such example. thrives in a hot climate, and remains relatively traditional Rias Baixas, or a paella with a Navarra rosado, or Much like Champagne, Spain follows the unaffected by drought conditions. The rosado method but a leche frita with a cream Sherry and you have got Traditional Method – Metodo Tradicional – from Bodegas Aroa is fresh and fruity, with a have less a match made in heaven. of bottle ageing for the second fermentation, nose and palate of fresh, red berries. So the next time you chill with friends or Top: Gnarled Vega which develops complex flavours in the wine. Castilla-La Mancha is home to La Mancha, acidity than feast with the family, don’t merely opt for a Sicilia vines on In the Recaredo Vintage Brut Nature Cava, the the biggest wine region in Europe, and also Champagne, sangria. Celebrate the taste of Spain with its exceptional Ribera del Duero produce second fermentation continues for up to 2.5 the largest delimited wine zone in Europe. It making them great variety of wine from its many bodegas. Pair exquisite red wines years, which adds distinctive characters of baked is a huge region in the centre of Spain with a these with food from around the world. Break known the world over. apples and brioche to this wine. dry, arid, continental climate. More than 50% more easy- out a Cava and marvel at the hidden gems of Above: Vega Sicilia’s flagship wine – Único Rias Baixas is a DO wine zone which is of Spanish wines are produced here, mainly in drinking Spain’s wine heritage. v

26 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 27 WINESOFITALY Wine and Art In Chianti

Above: Art gallerist Peter Femfert and his wife Stefania Canali, a historian from Venice, acquired the Nittardi Estate in 1982 Steven Spurrier admires the versatility of his award- Left: The label and tissue wrapping for Casanuova di Nittardi, a Chianti Classico sought by collectors worldwide, has been winning friend, Peter Femfert who combines his two created by an international artist every year since 1981 passions, art and winemaking, remarkably well in Tuscany requesting that he send a few fiaschi (flasks) of the Nittardi wine to Rome as a present for Pope Julius II under whose benevolence he was creating the masterpiece that is the Sistine Chapel. History repeated itself half a millennium later, when Peter Femfert donated the first few bottles of his eter Femfert, the German owner with his Venetian wife new estate in Tuscany’s Maremma – labelled Nectar Dei – to Pope Benedict Stefania of Fattoria Nittardi, is an artist. He would not think XVI, who accepted the gift with joy, sending a hand-written card of thanks. so, for his main profession consists of running Die Galerie, Following the purchase of Nittardi in 1983, with a vineyard reduced P Frankfurt’s leading art gallery specialising in modern painting to 4.5 hectares and barrels of the 1981 and 1982 vintages in the vaulted and sculpture, so he might say that he works with artists, represents them, cellars, Peter Femfert used his love of art and deep friendship with the befriends and understands them, but is not one himself. Yet at Nittardi, artists represented by Die Galerie to differentiate the wines of his estate the historic estate that he bought in 1983 thinking that he was merely from other Chianti Classicos. Having an artist design a was not assuring himself and Stefania of a home for the holidays, he has created a something new, for Baron Philippe de Rothschild had inaugurated this Peter Femfert used his love of true work of art. at Mouton-Rothschild in 1923 and these labels, created by many of the art and deep friendship with Fattoria Nittardi, an estate producing wine and olive oil north of world’s most famous artists, have run in unbroken succession since 1946. Castellina in Chianti in the heart of Tuscany nearer to Siena than to The 2005 Mouton label carries a watercolour by no less a person than the artists represented by Die Florence, has a history going back to almost 1,000 years. In the 12th Prince Charles. The 2005 Nittardi label, the 25th, carries a design by Yoko Galerie to differentiate the century the fortified tower that dominated its surroundings was known as Ono. Yet Peter Femfert went further than the Rothschilds by asking for a wines of his estate from other “Nectar Dei”, which presumes a wine production of some quality. In the design not only for the label but also for the wrapping paper that sheathes early 16th century the spacious estate was the property of Michelangelo each bottle. The fortunate recipient of a bottle from the single vineyard Chianti Classicos Buonarroti, who assigned to Lionardo, the son of his elder brother, Casanuova di Nittardi thus has two, not one, visual expressions, which is the role of manager. There is a letter from Michelangelo to his nephew Leon Femfert pictured in front of a work by typical of Peter’s playfulness and generosity. German artist Klaus Zylla

28 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 29 Nittardi produces three wines from the Maremma vineyard and three from the Castellina estate. What follows are brief notes from a tasting in August, 2019

MAREMMA Ben 2018 This was previously 100% The Nittardi estate is dotted with many sculptures such as the Lion of but in 2018, 8% of Petit Manseng was added from a Venice, which is a symbol of the Canali-Femfert family later picking to provide a little richness. Pale medium yellow, both floral and fruity with textured fruit and a refeshing finish, good with food. 17/90. In little more than two decades the Nittardi vineyards have been expanded to 12 hectares surrounded by woodland. The estate is Ad Astra 2015 a bucolic art gallery, with sculptures large and small surprising the A blend of 40% Sangiovese, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. Good solid visitor along the winding garden walks, creating an excitement that red wine with good red fruit on nose and palate, enhances, rather than interferes with the sense of peace that even the shows the warmth and spice from Maremma with good natural acidity. The four grapes well blended shortest visit to Nittardi affords. together. 17+/91. More recently, a five-year search with his oenological consultant, the renowned Carlo Ferrini, for perfect land in the Maremma, ended with Nectar Dei 2014 The best Sangiovese and Syrah plots are kept for bare land on the raw hills between Scansano and Montiano, overlooking this, with , and Monte Argentario over two hours drive to the southwest. With only the to add grip. Good deep red wine, still young but the second vintage, Nectar Dei 2004 was placed first, the only wine to receive nose already showing complexity, quite tight on the palate for Maremma with very good length, more 5 stars, at a tasting of 186 wines from the Maremma by Decanter magazine. elegant than expected. 18/93. write this in a spirit of total admiration for Peter Femfert. Few CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI Bel Canto Chianti Classico 2016 people, as outsiders and in the space of a quarter of a century, Good fresh violetty colour, really lovely black fruits could have created such a paradise as Nittardi, an all-encompassing on the nose with both richness and freshness on the delight for the senses and for the soul. Even fewer have won the palate. A lovely wine from a fine vintage. 17/90. I countless awards that hang in the Tasting Room. Yet, in the faintest possible Casanuova Chianti Classico 2016 manner, I can claim a connection to the dream that he and Stefania have Sangiovese 100% from a single steep sloping plot. realised. In his early teens, Peter was sent to live with his aunt outside Very good deep colour, rich and spicy fruit on nose and palate, tannins still showing, both oak and what used to be a very prosperous little town called Belper in Derbyshire. acidity well blended in, just opening up and fine till The prosperity was due to my great-grandfather, George Herbert Strutt, 2026. 17.5/92. whose cotton-spinning factories (long since disappeared by the time Peter Nittardi Chianti Classico Riserva 2015 arrived in the 1960s) brought employment and wealth to the town. George Deep young violet red, superb florality and fruit on Herbert Strutt was a philanthropist who founded a school in Belper which the nose and vineyard complexity on the palate, all black fruits with autumnal warmth and controlled Peter attended for one year and which exists to this day. There cannot be power, 2020-30. 18.5/95. A magnum of the 2006 many among my illustrious ancestor’s pupils who owns an internationally- comfirmed how marvellously this wine can age. known art gallery while also creating two beautiful wine-producing estates The original work for the 2013 label of Nittardi in Tuscany. This connection allows my family to visit Nittardi with a sense Chianti Classico Riserva by Alain Clement hangs in of covert complicity that adds something private and personal to our joint the Wine & Art Room at Bride Valley Vineyards, v Litton Cheyney. passion for wine and art.

30 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sicily in the Spotlight!

Marisa D’Vari explains how a new focus on quality over quantity has turned Sicilian wines into Sommelier favourites

Vineyards stretch as hile the classic regions of much an island with its own unique culture. far as the eye can WINE IN CAESAR’S TIME see with Mt Etna in Burgundy and Bordeaux Phoenicians and Carthaginians left their the background In the days of Julius Caesar, Sicilian wine was will always have their place mark in the form of ancient temples that still among the most coveted in the Roman Empire. Wat the top of wine lists in stand today. The Greeks and later the Romans Yet, sadly, over the centuries, the reputation of fine restaurants, sommeliers enjoy introducing brought the arts, architecture, and the study Sicilian wine fell. It hit rock bottom after World their customers to new, upcoming regions of mathematics to Sicily. War II when growers were paid to grow as many around the world. While all Sicilians speak the same language, grapes as possible and make wine without concern Right now, wines from Sicily are quickly the traditions and culture of the various towns for quality. This trend began to reverse – slowly – becoming sommelier favourites. The reason is and villages can be quite different. The style only in the 1980s. It was at this time that many Sicily’s unique terroir, and also because there and preparation of cuisine varies greatly as does university-educated, highly paid professionals is a “new wave” of quality minded winemakers the wine. And even though most of the wines discovered the neglected treasure of their family’s who have a story to tell and high-scoring wines in Sicily are made from the same native grape heritage vineyards and made it their mission to to back it up. varieties, they take on different expressions, hire agronomists and revitalize the vineyards. Sicily is the largest island in Italy as well depending on the altitude of the vineyard where Though some say that the trend of rehabilitating as the largest island in the Mediterranean. they are grown, the proximity to the sea, and the old vineyards first started in the foothills of Mount Ancient pre-phylloxera Nerello Mascalese grapevine Though it salutes the Italian flag, it is very winemaking tradition of the region. Etna, it is now taking place all over Sicily.

32 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 33 CASA VINICOLA FAZIO Owners of Casa Vinicola Fazio, Lilly Ferro Fazio and her in-laws have their own story to tell. “My husband is a law professor, but his family grew grapes in Erice, a hilly medieval city near Trapani. For 60 years they sold to the bulk wine market,” says Lilly. “Then in the 1980s, my husband and his brother decided to focus on quality instead of quantity. This meant improving the land to grow high quality grapes. And it also meant matching the terroir to suit the grape variety. For example, for cultivating Carricante white wine grapes grown near Mt Etna the native grape Inzolia, we needed to find the terroir most suited to its cultivation. “We have 100 hectares of farmland on the ‘‘My husband and his brother decided to focus on slopes of the mountain. All of the vineyards are quality instead of quantity. This meant improving cultivated on the hill, from 300 metres above sea level up to 700 metres. The high altitude gives the land to grow high quality grapes and matching better aromatics and more complexity. And the terroir to suit the grape variety.’’ Lilly Fazio because of the influence from the sea, we can Lilly Ferro Fazio, owner of Casa Vinicola Fazio Raj Vaidya, Head Sommelier at Michelin-starred find salty minerality in the white wines.” restaurant, Daniel The grapes are dry-farmed, Lilly explains, of change for Sicilian wines. “It was due in because there is enough water from the rain. large part to modernization of equipment and The soil, called kairos, is very stony, allowing new techniques to keep the wines fresh and the roots to dig deep in search of water. The aromatic,” José explains. biggest challenge is finding the optimum time “Though both my parents inherited to pick, as the warm weather puts the grapes vineyards, it took them ten years to really at the risk of becoming too ripe. In terms of get the brand off the ground. The name maturation, the Fazio family likes to use two- Donnafugata refers to a popular, very literary and three-year-old oak barrels to keep the oak Italian novel by Tomasi di Lampedusa, titled influence to a minimum. More than 20 years “The Leopard” and set in 19th century Italy. ago the Fazios began to experiment with some The story revolves around a queen who international grape varieties. But they were found refuge in the part of Sicily where the not the usual suspects such as Chardonnay company’s vineyards are located today.” or Cabernet Sauvignon. Instead they planted Muller-Thurgau. The grape adapted well to the EDUCATORS, SOMMELIERS, AND soil, but because it was so vigorous, they had INFLUENCERS to remove excess bunches and pick very early. Jean K Reilly, a wine expert holding the title Today its production is successful. of Master of Wine, is also a journalist and educator. When asked about her thoughts on DONNAFUGATA WINERY Sicilian wine, she responds, “Sicily is the most In 1983, Giacomo and Gabriella Rallo created dynamic region in Italy at the moment. The Donnafugata, one of the first of the new wave of energy and passion of the latest generation of

Raj Parr, three-time James Beard award-winning author, José Rallo from the Donnafugata family quality-oriented Sicilian wine brands. According winemakers is obvious in the quality of the sommelier and winemaker to their daughter José, the 1980s were a time wines. My underdog favourite white variety

34 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 35 Sicily is an island full of history, diversity, flavours, culture and amazing wines.... It is one of those places with indigenous grapes and incredible terroir and elevation. It’s like the Garden of Eden.

Left: Alberello Nero d’Avola. The vines grow like a small tree or “alberello”. Right: Nero d’Avola, the most widely planted red grape Map of Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea with its own unique culture

SICILIAN WINES IN THE BEST RESTAURANTS cellar, it is fresh, vibrant and great to pair with salads. on Etna is Carricante. Grapes like Sauvignon it’s the biggest island in the Mediterranean.” Today Sicilian wines are finding their way to the best Raj Parr, three-time James Beard Award-winning Blanc can’t hold a candle to it.” Michael Madrigale, partner in the wine app restaurants in the world. Raj Vaidya, Head Sommelier author, sommelier, and winemaker, has visited Sicily International wine influencer Georgia Grande Cuvée and former sommelier at Bar at Michelin-starred, Restaurant Daniel, is accustomed and praises the courage of Sicilian winemakers. “Sicily Panagopoulou is the founder of Wine Gini and Boulud in Manhattan, is also a fan of Sicilian to opening rare bottles of wine valued at $1000 – and is a very extreme place to grow grapes. Producers face has a Master of Science in Wine Management wine. “I went to Italy in 2013 to discover more – each night for discriminating guests. eruptions from Mount Etna, snow as late as April, from the OIV (The International Organisation what these wines were all about. Sicily is one He is an advocate of Sicilian wine. “My favourite very dry conditions, and heat that can reach 100°F in of Vine and Wine). Georgia, who specialises in of those places with indigenous grapes, and producer in Sicily is probably producer Arianna summer.” A fan of Sicily’s native varieties, he singles digital communication strategies for wineries, incredible terroir and elevation. It’s like the Occhipinti, especially for her juicy and fruit forward out producers Frank Cornelissen and Salvo Foti feels the time is right for Sicilian wine. Garden of Eden. And the wines are delicious.” reds from the Vittoria region. The is utterly among his favourites. “Sicily is an island full of history, diversity, When asked why he thinks Sicilian wines are delicious,” he says. Sommeliers agree that Sicily represents some of flavours, culture and amazing wines. Before becoming so popular today, he says, “People Frappato is an indigenous grape of Italy. Like Nero the most exciting and delicious wine on the market visiting Sicily, most of my experience of tasting are now looking for authenticity more than d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese, this native variety, today. Though a few Sicilian producers make high- Sicilian wines had to do with wines from for a famous wine region. It took the Sicilians along with the white grapes and Catarratta, priced “trophy wines” from single vineyards, the Mount Etna. But Sicily has so many different a long time to establish their new reputation form the success stories of the export market. majority of good quality Sicilian wine is moderately regions and varieties! Grillo, , for quality wines. Now the market is telling Frappato is a light skinned grape that makes an priced, delicious, and very food friendly. And given Inzolia, Nerello Cappucio, Perricone, Nerello them that people are willing to spend more aromatic red wine scented with sweet red berries and its volcanic origin, there is always a good story to tell Mascalese to name only a few. Let’s not forget money for quality.” intense spice. While this is not a wine to age in the with every glass. v

36 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 37 WINESOFBURGUNDY BIVB - Aurélien IBANEZ hablis is unique. It is the one great Chardonnay that does not auto- matically require the input of oak What makes C in its winemaking. Think of the grand crus of the Côte d’Or or the best New World Chardonnays from California, New Zealand or South Africa and the wines will CHABLIS unique have probably been fermented in oak barrels, and most definitely aged in barrels. But not so for Chablis. While it is true that many of the among Chardonnays? producers of the grands crus vineyards will use oak, that is not systematically so, and there are many great Chablis’ that have not been near Rosemary George gives us the inside a stave of wood. Then to confuse the issue, story of this versatile, chameleon grape Chablis has an intriguing chameleon charac- teristic that can fool you into believing that the wine has been in oak, when there is not a single barrel in the wine grower’s cellar! So, what is it that makes Chablis so special and so different? As we all know, the taste of a wine is broadly determined by the grape variety, the soil in which the vines are grown and the climate to which they are subject, and then there is the human touch, the hand of the winemaker, that can really enhance the diversity of style. So like all fine white Burgundy, Chablis comes from the Chardonnay grape that is grown in 20 villages and hamlets around the small town of Chablis in northern Burgundy. It is quite separate from the rest of Burgundy, and is in fact closer to the vineyards of Champagne than to those of the Côte d’Or. The soil is Jurassic limestone – partly Kimmeridgian – with a mix of clay. Appropriately, as the French consider Chablis to be the perfect accompaniment to an oyster, the soil is thick with tiny fossilised oyster shells, for this land was once beneath the sea. Geologically, it is part of the Parisian basin, on the northern Chardonnay vineyards in Chablis with side of the English Channel – hence the Dorset the village of Préhy in the bacground. village of Kimmeridge in southwest England Just visible to the right are the church and Domaine Brocard giving its name to that particular layer of soil. The climate is fairly continental; winters

38 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 39 can be cold and summers warm, but not usually Nor is it uncommon for a warm September extreme in heat. The main climatic problem to save the after a gloomy summer. is spring frost, which can decimate the crop, Early harvests raise the question of global as it did in 2017. There are various means warming. Will that affect the taste of Chablis? of protecting the young vine shoots, such as So far, I would suggest, not significantly. It is heaters, electrical wires to warm the atmosphere possible to discern two broad styles of vintages in or a system of aspersion, whereby the vines are Chablis. There are years that are less sunny, when sprayed once the temperature drops to freezing the grapes have firm acidity and the wines have point, so that a protective coating of ice forms an appealing incisiveness, with the wine growers around the young buds. However, if the frost is Like all using words like droit, chiselled, firm, acidity, and severe, and continues over several days, extensive fine white then there are years when the flavours are more damage can be done. Burgundy, rounded and richer, but nonetheless retaining Hail during the summer is another that benchmark acidity that is characteristic of problem that can also cause severe damage, Chablis comes fine Chablis, and notes of what is called pierre BIVB - Joel GESVRES as it did in 2016. There is now a system of from the à fusil, or gunflint. Chablis can surprise. The small canons, for want of a better description, Chardonnay 2003 vintage had the earliest harvest ever, after to sit on the fine lees for several months, and A view of the town of is fine-tuning the methods of his grandfather, that shoot silver iodide into the atmosphere, an extreme heatwave during the summer. In that will add greater depth of flavour. Chablis, from the grands and then of his uncle. They never used oak for grape grown crus vineyards looking an effort to turn the potential particles of theory the wines should have died a while ago, It is the crus that are most likely to be across to the premiers their wines; unoaked Chablis is the hallmark ice into rain. Although they are linked to a in 20 villages but the last time I visited Vincent Dauvissat, less fermented or aged in oak, but if you age your crus of Vaillons and of the house, and Guillaume is not tempted Montmains warning system, hail is quite unpredictable. and hamlets than a year ago, he gave me a wine to try and wine in oak, you do not necessarily ferment it to stray. He is curious, yes, but he remains It can destroy the crop of one vineyard in a around the asked me to guess the vintage. It was a wine with in oak too. One does not follow the other. The staunchly in the no-oak school of Chablis, matter of seconds, while completely ignoring some notes of maturity, and a very good balance traditional Chablis barrel was the feuillette of working on emphasising the characteristics of the neighbouring vineyard. small town of of acidity. I was quite taken aback to be told that 132 . These days, those are rare and you are the various crus. The only significant change in Chablis it was premier cru Forêt, from the 2003 vintage. much more likely to find Burgundian pièces of his winemaking is the use of indigenous yeast, was in Chablis last June, and every Vincent is convinced that the vines have an 228 litres and larger oak barrels or demi-muids of which is a trend that you find among other wine time a large cloud loomed into view, amazing ability to adapt to their environment, 500 to 600 litres and even some small wooden growers in Chablis. Guillaume is convinced that I I immediately sensed the tension and and that Chablis will remain Chablis despite any vats or foudres, of 20 hectolitres or more. People indigenous yeast enhances the characteristics of anxiety in whomever I was talking to at the global warming. who use oak do so to enhance the intrinsic flinty the various crus. time. Fortunately the weather gods were kind You could say that there are as many flavours of Chablis; they certainly do not want to Chablis has a wonderful ability to age, with in 2018, and Chablis had its largest harvest different tastes of Chablis as there are add wood-flavour to their wine. It is all to do with its saline acidity enhancing its ageing potential. ever. Harvests are gradually taking place ear- wine growers. Each adds his or her – and oxygenation, allowing the wine to breathe. One With bottle age, it can develop all manner of lier; when once 1st October was the common increasingly it is “her” these days – own of the masters of the use of oak is Didier Seguin intriguing flavours. There are salty, saline notes, date for the start of the harvest, the vintage particular touch to their wine. In broad terms, at Domaine William Fèvre. For him, oak does recalling the sea; there are hints of iodine; there now usually takes place in the middle of Sep- very little Chablis or Petit Chablis is aged in not automatically imply new oak. Didier is lucky is an incisiveness that becomes more rounded tember and there have been four harvests, in- oak. The role of Petit Chablis is to provide a in having a good source of second-hand barrels, with age. It has the flinty, stony notes of gunflint; cluding that of 2018, that started in August. friendly introduction to Chablis, with some from Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune. Fabien it can develop honeyed notes, or notes of fresh steely fruit and firm acidity, with a salty Moreau of Domaine Christian Moreau may put undergrowth and damp leaves or of mousseron, note from the sea. Chablis, which forms the all his grand cru Blanchots into barrel, but for which is a tiny local wild mushroom. The ageing bulk of the vineyards, has a little more weight his grand cru Vaudesir and premier cru Vaillons, ability of Chablis never ceases to amaze me. and body, but is quite similar. Occasionally 40% is sufficient. The wine must have enough On my last visit, Gerard Tremblay opened you will find a Chablis that has been weight and structure to assimilate the oak. Lees a bottle of 1978 premier cru Fourchaume. The fermented or aged in oak; often this is when stirring in barrel is rarely done these days, for wine had not been in oak, although you might the wine grower does not have any premier or the simple reason that it can make the wine too have thought it had, from nuances on the palate; grand cru and therefore wants to diversify and heavy, so that it loses its tipicity of flinty Chablis. it had evolved beautifully, developing a wonderful add an extra dimension to their range. More The epitome of unoaked Chablis comes from depth of flavour. As it turned out, 1978 was the often, the wine growers will leave their wines Domaine Louis Michel where Guillaume Michel year of my very first visit to Chablis. v

40 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 41 Members of the Vignobles and Signatures club pictured among the vines

ClubFRANCE Vignobles and Signatures is an exclusive club of 17 top wine-and-spirits producing families from France, who have built bonds across generations. Ruma Singh attends their 35th anniversary celebrations in Bordeaux

42 SommelierClass INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 43 Photo: Thierry Vallier There is strength in numbers, it is said. That is the idea behind Vignobles & Signatures, a club of noted producers who have come together to support and promote each others’ brands. Vignobles & Signatures today consists of 17 members, each one a producer representing one of France’s wine regions. For example, Bordeaux’s Saint-Emilion is represented by founder-member Joseph Janoueix of Château Haut-Sarpe, Provence by Figuiere, Alsace by Domaine Paul Blanck, the Rhône Valley by Alain Jaume, Burgundy by Domaine Roux, Pouilly Fumé by Château de Tracy, Champagne by Champagne Drappier, etc (full listgiven below). Vignobles & Signatures members control 1,550 hectares of vines, employ 375 employees, produce 11,500,000 bottles of wine and have a turnover of €84,000,000. With these figures growing every year, the club has become an important economic Right: Joseph force within the French wine industry. Janoueix in the cellar of Château Haut-Sarpe A CLUB FOR QUALITY Where there is a club, there are rules for membership. At a joyfully Below: Magali Combard, festive 35th anniversary celebration dinner at Château Haut-Sarpe in commercial Saint-Emilion, Magali Combard, daughter of club co-founder Alain director of Combard of Provence’s Figuere estate explains, “The foundation of the Domaine Figuière with Delphine and club is the strength of human relationships. Each producer is picked for Francois his standing and reputation for integrity within the region. This makes ours a club for quality.” Friendship was the driving force behind the idea of the club. At Vinexpo 1984, Jean-François Janoueix’s stall was next to Combard’s. One would stand in for the other during breaks, chat with stall visitors and clients, and very soon they both realised the advantages of this support Frédéric and Philippe Blanck of Domaine Paul Blanck system. Thus was born Vignobles & Signatures, a club with eight members in 1984, which has been growing ever since. At Vinexpo Bordeaux 2019, their large bright pavilion, with individual booths for each member, attracted both attention and visitors. The camaraderie among the members is evident on that celebratory evening in Bordeaux. We begin the evening with casual, free-wheeling wine tastings from each of the producers present, wandering from table to table sipping, spitting and chatting with the owners. At the Domaine Cauhapé table I meet again with sales director Pierre Simonet representing owner Henri Ramontou from Jurançon. Ramontou’s famous sweet 100% Petit Manseng, Quintessence 2014, had headlined a superb tasting at the Sweet Wines of the World masterclass earlier that week at Vinexpo. I now taste his Jurançon sec, Chante des Vignes 2017, a blend of Gros Manseng with the native Camaralet grape – fruity with crisp acidity.

Stopping for some charcuterie at the live carving station, I moved ©vrier 2018 ©bastien Roux across to the table of Domaine Roux, the 16th member to join the club Henri Ramonteu, commercial director and Matthieu, Emmanuel and Sébastien Roux Pierre Simonet, owner of Domaine Cauhapé ©vrier 2017 of Domaine Roux, Burgundy

44 INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 45 VIGNOBLES & SIGNATURES member estates and their wine regions in France Famille Joseph Janoueix – Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Côtes De Castillon

Domaine Figuière – Provence

Domaine Couly-Dutheil – Chinon

Maison Guilbaud Frères –

Famille Lesgourgues – Bas , Bordeaux, , Madiran

Domaine Paul Blanck – Alsace Owner Pascal Guilbaud with Romane and Martine Guilbaud, and Maxime Fernandez ©thvallier Dominique Piron and Julien Revillon of Domaines Dominque Piron Domaine Jean Durup Père & Fils in March 2019. The 70-hectares Burgundy domaine, established in the 19th century company management and our distribution networks.” – Chablis, Burgundy is run by fifth-generation Sébastien Roux and his brother Mathieu. The family knew Tasting done, we move to a large white tent outside the château for our dinner. The Alain Combard and, as their philosophies and ethics matched, it seemed natural to members mingle, moving from table to table, bottle in hand, pouring their wines for Champagne Drappier – Champagne join forces. “We are stronger together,” says Roux, pouring me his Corton-Charlemagne others to taste. On the lawns outside the tent, meat is being grilled over vine canes, the Grand Cru 2014. “Look around you. We are casual people and we like the club heady aromas wafting back to us. Château De Tracy – Pouilly Fumé, philosophy; 80% of the members are the top producers for their region, but there is Michel Drappier and his daughter Charlene are busy pouring their Grand Sendrée Loire no snobbery here.” Outside, freshly-shucked oysters are being prepped on the lawns 2009. Later, I join Drappier at his table as he pauses for his cheese course. How is adjacent to the vineyards. I pick up some to have with the richly-textured Chablis in he enjoying his association with the club? I ask him. “We love it,” he replies smiling, Domaine Cauhapé – Jurançon, my glass by Jean Durup Père & Fils, Premier Cru Montmain 2017. “Business is one thing, but this goes far beyond that. As a group, we share the same Aquitaine The club presidency changes every three years, and current president, Julien values. Life is short; we want our legacy in the vineyards, cellars – to go on forever. What Famille Orliac Domaine De Révillon of Domaines Dominique Piron Beaujolais, explains, “The Club as far as my children can’t learn from me, they can learn from my friends. And our children will L’Hortus – Pic Saint-Loup, I know is the oldest club of winemakers and was set up before Primum Familiae take over our family businesses. This club is unique.” Drappier champagne is sold in 104 Languedoc-Roussillon Vini (which started in 1991) which is maybe one of the most well-known clubs, and countries, and being in the club means extensive shared contacts and connections across which had been inspired by Vignobles & Signatures.” Unlike Primum Familae Vini, the world. Roger Groult – Pays D’Auge, Vignobles & Signatures’ members must be French producers. A CLUB OF FRIENDS Alain Jaume – Vallée Du Rhône Jean-Roger Groult of Calvados NEW LOOK, OLD TRADITIONS Admitting new members is quite a process, Révillon explains. As far as possible, Most of the club’s founding families remain members 35 years on, with the new unanimity is encouraged. If there are concerns, these are discussed. “Unanimity might Domaines Dominique Piron – generation taking over in some cases. “This is the perfect time for us to renew our not always happen but the rule is that we hear each other out first, so decisions are easier.” Beaujolais commitments and ambitions as a club, so everyone has highlighted what it means for That each member must own a family-run business is compulsory. In some cases, the them to be a member.” The club has launched a new logo, an updated website and a business might be owned by two families as in the of Domaines Dominique Piron Domaine Coume Del Mas – Languedoc-Roussillon motto that resonates: “Sharing our values”. They are all grape growers, except for Roger co-owned by Piron and Révillon, even three as for Banyuls-based producer Coum Del Groult who grows apples for his Calvados. “We have long term visions; our families Mas. The quality and reputation of the producer is also non-negotiable. To ensure this, Domaine Roux – Burgundy share a passion for wines and for our terroirs,” adds Révillon, “Moral values are a commission is tasked to taste the wines and spirits, analyse and judge the producer’s more important for us than business. Quality remains a keyword: for our production, image and media presence, look into legalities and more. Domains Abecassis – Cognac

46 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 47 © cassis

Cognac producer Michel Drappier with Francis Abécassis and Every new member must be a specialist in their region. There can be no second Jean-François Janoueix, members would take the time to visit each other’s wineries, his daughter, Charlene his daughter, Elodie of member from the same region. Adds Révillon, “If the applicants are too small, their taste their wines, share dinners and evenings together. Now everything moves too fast, and father, André of Domaines Abécassis Champagne Drappier needs might be too limited for our club… and if they are too big, they need to have more regrettably. We will try to do this more – as we have done this time in Bordeaux. space and visibility in the trade fairs and so need to quit the club. Some famous members Working hard, living to the fullest! It is always a pleasure to discover a little slice of have left the club either because they became too big or wanted more independence, or France’s unique terroir with all its specificity – local grapes, beautiful landscapes and because they were no more family-run. For instance, Laroche, Brumont-Montus, Brunel our local food!” de la Gardine, Alfred Gratien, Domaine Cazes of Roussillon, Alphonse Mellot, Cuvelier The newest member to join, in June 2019, Domaines Francis Abécassis is one of Léoville-Poyferré among others.” Combard agrees. “There must be consistency and of Cognac’s biggest independent producers with 370 hectares of vines and a slew of The newest unanimity among members. We cannot afford bad choices.” medals to his name. Francis Abécassis makes the famous prize-winning ABK6 “single member in June Domaine Paul Blanck’s award-winning Alsace grand crus are on premium wine estate ” which recently swept the IWSC 2019 awards. With Armagnac’s Famille 2019, Domaines lists from La Tour d’Argent to Le Bernardin, including Air France first class, and they Lesgourgues and Calvados’ Roger Groult, Abécassis makes up a trio of award-winning export 85% of their production. For family member and sales head Philippe Blanck, spirits producers in the club. He tells me he is looking forward to being a part of the Francis Abécassis the club is a group of friends who have come together to share ideas. “This allows for a V&S family. “We are still a family-run company – at least for my generation and for is one of Cognac’s greater awareness of current problems and possible solutions.” my daughter Elodie’s. I hope we can be successful so the following generation will have biggest independent Révillon explains further, “Decisions may be taken either by a younger or older a win-win choice: to continue writing the “single estate Cognac story” or maybe script family member. There is no conflict between generations within the club. We take the their own.” He anticipates growing beyond the 32 countries he currently exports to, producers with 370 best from each member and use the knowledge of each one there.” Adds Blanck, “When through the club’s network. hectares of vines a new member joins, it gives us joy. Here is an opportunity to learn about a new region.” As the evening winds down and I walk out into the cool night air to head back to the city, I can hear glasses still being clinked, laughter and conversation as the members of THE CLUB TODAY Vignobles & Signatures linger to do what they enjoy most – exchange notes and make So how does the club function in today’s fast-paced, business-centric world? Has the plans for the future. Well-known French producers from iconic French regions, they outlook changed since its inception? Révillon replies, “We definitely take advantage have put aside egos and individual needs to band together to truly become what their of the club’s business network and knowledge, and sharing our contacts helps because catchphrase proclaims: Le Club des Grands Domaines.’ time is more difficult to manage than in the past. During the times of the founder, As Durup puts it, “Together, we grow a little more every day.” v

48 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 49 WINESOFNEW ZEALAND or most of us, when we think of New Southern Valleys are cooler, with heavier soil; the Zealand, the grape variety that imme- Awatere Valley and the various parts of the large diately comes to mind is, without any Wairau Valley each have a distinctive character, F hesitation, Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvi- which can be enhanced by vineyard practices. gnon Blanc was the grape that put New Zealand Winemakers are looking for more minerality; on the world wine map. I remember vividly my first they may use some oak, making two contrasting taste. It was an exciting new flavour quite unlike a styles of Sauvignon, such as Cloudy Bay, with their SURGING Sauvignon from anywhere else. Today Sauvignon standard Sauvignon and Te Koko, with some new accounts for 75% of the total wine production of oak and indigenous yeast. Clos Henri, with its New Zealand, but New Zealand has so much more French owners based in , makes some of to offer. the most understated Sauvignon with rich mineral Over the last few years, the style of Sauvignon, fruit and just a touch of old oak. Any winemaker particularly Marlborough Sauvignon has evolved. worth their salt wants to push the boundaries. AHEAD There will always be a following for the fresh Chardonnay is the other important white pithy Sauvignon, that typifies New Zealand, but variety, but it has tended to be overlooked in New Zealand wines have changed and successfully creative winemakers have wanted to do much favour of Sauvignon, and also due to the fact established their own individual styles without reference to more, developing a broader range of flavours. that Chardonnay is grown in most of the world’s There is a greater awareness of the different sub- wine producing countries. However, over the last other countries or regions, says Rosemary George regions of Marlborough, so that the impact of few years, New Zealand has quietly established local differences is noticeable in the wines. The its own individual and very successful style of

Rippon Vineyard on Lake Wanaka is one of the most beautiful vineyard sites in the world

50 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 51 Map of Regions expanded with Albarino from wineries such Astrolabe and Nautilus, and Gruner Veltliner from Yealands in Marlborough and Quartz Reef in Central Otago beginning to make their mark. Nor should New Zealand’s sparkling wines be forgotten. The best are made by the champagne method and offer a delicious alternative, with wines like Cloudy Bay’s Pelorus, Rudi Bauer’s Quartz Reef and Jane Hunter’s Miru Miru.

he red grape variety that has made the most impact and attracted the Tmost attention is undoubtedly Pinot Noir. It has a reputation as a temperamental grape variety that is difficult to manage in both cellar and vineyard, but somehow New Zealand has tamed it, taking 30 years to do what the Burgundians took about 300 years to achieve. Chardonnay, with an elegance that you rarely Above: Sauvignon stones of his vineyards, also talked about making Consequently, from Martinborough at the Blanc clusters, the find in Chardonnay from the other countries Chardonnay, simply saying “he walks away from bottom of the North Island and all though the grape that put New of the New World. Two tastings on the recent Zealand on the it for 18 months.”!! South Island you will find delicious examples of Master of Wine study trip to New Zealand world wine map The second tasting for the Masters of Wine this wonderful grape. vividly illustrated that point. and accounts for took place in North Canterbury, north of The various regions have each evolved their 75% of its total The Family of Twelve are essentially a wine production Christchurch and illustrated the individual own individual style over the last 30 years from marketing organisation, but one that includes and understated style of Chardonnay that has the first initial plantings of Pinot Noir. However, some of the most talented producers of been developed in that small area, where there given the reputation of Martinborough and Chardonnay in the country, the likes of Tim is limestone, which is rare in New Zealand. Central Otago for Pinot Noir, it is extraordinary Finn at Neudorf in Nelson, Mike Brajkovich New Zealand Handpicking, fermentation in barrel, and also to realise that the pioneers, as recently as the of Kumeu River outside Auckland, and James has quietly in , a broader choice of clones, and 1980s, had no idea that Pinot Noir would be Milton in Gisborne, along with Pegasus Bay, vine age have all played their part in developing the grape variety. Rippon Vineyard on Lake Ata Rangi, Craggy Range and others, covering established the flavours of Chardonnay. The region also Wanaka retains an early planting of Osteiner all the country’s principal wine regions. The its own benefits from its proximity to the Southern Alps and one of the pioneers of Martinborough, Stan various members talked about the evolution of individual and placing it in a rain shadow. Chifney, favoured Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Chardonnay, of how initially their winemaking Apart from these two classics, New Zealand is Sauvignon. At a tasting in Martinborough the was influenced by Australia and California, very successful also looking at other varieties. Riesling and Pinot wine growers led by Helen Masters of Ata Rangi, and then they began moving towards hand style of Gris are now well established. Kevin Judd makes and Larry McKenna of Escarpment talked about harvesting, whole bunch , fermentation Chardonnay, some finely crafted at Greywacke. the characteristics of their area. Martinborough in oak, and then wild yeast followed, and also with an Framingham, with its talented winemaker, is an elevated terrace with free draining alluvial lees ageing, and the results are delicious, with Andrew Hedley, produces a delicious range gravels. Wind is a key factor in the climate of elegantly refined wines. Nowadays older barrels elegance that of Riesling, from the elegantly dry, to richer Martinborough, which can upset the flowering. are more common, with less intervention in you rarely find sweeter flavours. Gewurztraminer also features As Larry put it; it is a banker’s nightmare, but the cellar. Kevin Judd, the winemaker who in their range, as it does with Hunters. The the low yields mean that the berries receive a in Chardonnay Night view of Cloudy Bay. Located in the heart of the established the reputation of Cloudy Bay, and two wines contrast beautifully; Framingham lot of light, and the wind thickens the skins, Wairau Valley in Marlborough, Cloudy Bay is New then went on to create his own very successful from other is more concentrated, while Jane Hunter’s is making for more savoury, tannic wines than Zealand’s most recognised winery winery, Greywacke, named after the rocky countries elegant, fragrant. The choice is being gradually those further south.

52 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 53 ACADEMIE DU VIN LIBRARY

with its natural style that encompassed “lazy, non- interventionist winemaking”. They have moved away Wine from an Australian style, avoiding alcohol, oak and over ripening and now pick when the grapes have good acidity levels, freshness and moderate alcohol. Hawke’s Writing Bay Syrah can have a peppery spiciness that has more in common with the Rhône Valley than examples of Syrah from across the Tasman Sea. Names to look out at Its for include Craggy Range, Elephant Hill, La Collina from Bilancia, Alpha Domus, Esk Valley, Bullnose from Te Mata and Hommage from Trinity Hill. Finest or must the Bordeaux styles be forgotten. Long gone are the days when New Zealand Steven Spurrier and the Académie du Vin Library Nhad difficulty in ripening Cabernet bring you the very best wine books, old and new, to Sauvignon and Merlot. A better understanding of deepen your appreciation of fine wine and enhance vineyard sites and vine management has made all your drinking pleasure. Te Mata Estate in their intensive aromatic character. the difference and there are now some convincing Hawke’s Bay is New Zealand’s oldest winery The winemakers are learning more about Bordeaux blends, on Waiheke Island with wines like and Coleraine, its their individual sites, and looking for lower Laroze from the pioneering winery, Stonyridge, and flagship wine, is one of extraction, while still making wines that can Coleraine from Te Mata in Hawke’s Bay. For my taste the country’s finest Bordeaux style wines absorb some oak during the ageing process. Nick buds, this wine is the most claret-like of the Bordeaux Mills of Rippon Vineyard, with one of the most blends of New Zealand. Of course, comparisons are beautiful vineyard sites in the world, on Lake odious, and what really needs to be emphasised is that Wanaka, attributes that to vine age. Within New Zealand has successfully established its own very Central Otago several sub-regions are now individual styles of wine, without reference to other recognised, Wanaka, Gibbston Valley and the regions and countries. New Zealand has come into Cromwell Basin, which breaks down into Pisa, its own and stands in nobody’s shadow, which is a Bendigo, and Bannockburn, with Lake Dunstan brilliant achievement in some 30 odd years of the having a significant impact on microclimate. modern New Zealand wine industry. v Syrah too has become more significant, performing particularly well in Hawke’s Bay and Pinot Noir has on Waiheke Island, which is a short ferry ride VISITORS WELCOME a reputation as a from the centre of Auckland. Hawke’s Bay has The New Zealand wine industry is very open to wine The wines of Central Otago are generally temperamental recognised various sub-regions, most notably tourism. Many of the larger wineries such as Craggy Range more fruit driven; there is a generosity in their Gimblett Gravels, with vineyards on gravel. The in Hawke’s Bay, Hunter’s in Marlborough, Stonyridge on grape variety Waiheke and Amisfield in Central Otago, have restaurants. flavours, with sweet silky fruit balancing the land was saved from being turned into a gravel If they do not have a restaurant, they will almost certainly tannins. For me the noticeable development that is difficult quarry, by a far-sighted pioneer of Syrah in the have a tasting room. 10 Great Wine Families – a tour through Europe in Central Otago was the lower alcohol levels. region, Alan Limner, who planted the first Syrah by Fiona Morrison MW to manage but An insider’s view of ten of Europe’s most celebrated Not so many years ago, the wines had fruit somehow New in Hawke’s Bay at his winery, Stonecroft, with a Go to Rippon Vineyard on Lake Wanaka for the tasting room winemaking dynasties and flavour, but they also had noticeably high first vintage as recent as 1989. Warren Gibson, with the best view. But the scenery of New Zealand is such Zealand has that there are many other contenders for that accolade. alcohol. Not so today. The wines have become who makes exemplary Syrah at Bilancia talked Ring ahead before visiting to be sure of a good welcome. more restrained and elegant, while still retaining tamed it about Hawke’s Bay becoming more comfortable Discover more at

54 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBERwww.academieduvinlibrary.com 2019 Sommelier INDIA 55 WINE

“Founder and CEO Rajeev Samant always had an amphitheatre, music festival, accommodation (at and near open-door policy regarding visitors to the winery,” says the winery) and a retail outlet in the complex. Monit Dhavale, Sr.Vice President – Hospitality of Sula “Organized winery tours commenced in 2005 with the Welcome to Sula Vineyards, India’s largest winery. Dhavale speaks from opening of India’s first wine tasting room, making Sula first-hand experience. As a member of the faculty of a the first winery to conduct these tours and wine tastings Enjoy lush scenery, fi ne wines and great food at a hotel management institute in Nashik way back in 2000, for the visiting public,” says Dhavale. “The tours are held winery that has become the leading tourist destination he wanted to introduce his students to the process of wine every hour between 11:30 am to 6:30 pm and take visitors in the Nashik area. Brinda Gill describes the progressive production and, within ten minutes of asking, he received through the winery and wine-making process.” growth of Sula’s pioneeting wine tourism initiatives and permission for a Sula winery visit. The wine tours soon became a draw for Nashik residents Sula’s welcoming approach to visitors and students as well as for travellers who enjoyed visiting the winery a unique, unforgettable holiday continued in an informal way in the ensuing years. But followed by wine tastings accompanied with nibbles such with the number of visitors increasing, it was decided to as a simple cheese platter, cold cuts, olives, chips and nuts put a system in place for visits and wine tasting in order offered on the terrace overlooking the vineyards with a fine to make managing tours easier. Given the restriction on view of the Gangapur Dam. As footfalls increased and it advertising wines in India, this was a prudent decision became obvious that people were keen to buy wines and as it developed into an effective way of conveying the wine accessories, a store was opened to display and sell a Sula brand and its portfolio to those interested in wines. range of Sula wines as well as wine related merchandise The early steps were appreciated and led subsequently to such as bottle openers, wine stemware, , Sula further initiatives, such as a wine tasting room, restaurants, T-shirts, cork key chains and other memorabilia.

The Sky Villa set amid vinyards with unparalleled lake views and the distant hills of Gangapur

56 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 57 held in the amphitheatre, bringing yet another room resort with a Tuscan exterior. The resort new experience to Nashik that had typically been opened to guests at the time of the 10th SulaFest exposed only to Marathi theatre. in 2017, which had grown in the ensuing decade Meanwhile, work started on the construction from a half-day to a three-day festival featuring of Beyond, a 29-room resort in the same location well-known Indian and international artistes. By as the old leased villa. The two-level structure, November 2018, The Source had added another Sky Villa at Sula Vineyards is a haven of peace and has with each of its 23 rooms overlooking vineyards, eight rooms making it a 31-room resort. well-appointed guest rooms with vineyard views opened in November 2010. It was India’s first The steady increase in winery tours and boutique vineyard resort – and such was the tastings, dining options and accommodation, demand that another six rooms had to be added. saw Sula register an increasing number of visitors In May 2010, the Indian restaurant Soma, now and footfalls, reaching almost 400,000 this year. The entrance to “The and are happy to say that some have become Source at Sula”, the re-named Rasa, was opened so that visitors could The visitors come throughout the year – enjoying 23-bedroom resort chefs and reached managerial positions from a enjoy a meal of Indian food with wine. the winter months with the experience of grape humble start as basic housekeeping staff.” The winery turned into a hive of activity with stomping each day from about the end of January Sula has started the process of developing the steady inflow of visitors. While Little Italy till end-March, and the monsoon months for the a similar winery tour and wine tasting and Soma were doing very well, the company expanse of green as far as the eye can see, cool experience at their Heritage Winery in decided to upgrade the experience to attract breezes and soothing environs. Karnataka located on the Bangalore-Mysore more tourists to the winery. “In 2014 we closed “With the huge number of visitors, we have Highway. Their Kadu wine labels bear a tiger Little Italy and Soma and launched a new ensured our hospitality staff is trained to impart motif, symbolising the winery’s commitment restaurant, Soleil by La Plage with the ambience wine knowledge to visitors. The department has to tiger conservation in the state of Karnataka of a chic home serving French food with wines,” more than 35 WSET Level 1 certified staff and which is home to the largest number of tigers says Dhavale. With these changes, the restaurant the number is increasing every month.” The in the country. began to attract new patrons, but with the tragic winery has recently obtained permission to apply Wine tourism is an essential part of the passing away of French chef, Morgan Rainforth for a special license on designated ‘dry days’ so wine business worldwide and in a relatively Next came the idea of creating accommodation in a road accident in Goa in 2016, it became that visitors can enjoy a winery tour and wine new wine country like India it gains even more that would make it convenient for outstation impossible for the La Plage team to keep the tasting on these days too. importance. As the Sula initiative proves, by tourists travelling to Nashik and enhance the the restaurant functioning. When considering Today, with wine enthusiasts from around creating a beautiful destination and ensuring quality of their stay in wine country making it alternative dining possibilities the overwhelming the country visiting Sula, the winery has been a simple, fun experience for visitors who don’t more relaxed. This led to the leasing of a villa, response from regular guests was to bring back recognised with awards for its pioneering role know a lot about wine, thousands of Indians 2.5 kms down the road from Sula in 2008. In the Little Italy and Soma and within eight days the in promoting wine tourism and retains its top have been introduced to the joy of wine. v same year, the winery also launched SulaFest, the two restaurants were back with a name change position as the country’s most successful winery. For more details go to: www.sulawines.com/visit/stay first music festival to be held at a winery in India Organized for the Indian restaurant from Soma to Rasa. “The amphitheatre is also becoming popular at its newly-constructed amphitheatre near the As the demand for accommodation continued as a concert venue; artistes Neha Kakkar and winery tours SITES TO VISIT AROUND SULA vineyards. Little Italy restaurant was opened with to grow, Sky Villa, a three-room structure located Lucky Ali had their concerts here recently and Italian specialities tweaked for Indian tastes and commenced two kilometres after Beyond was taken on lease. the atmosphere during SulaFest is amazing. The Vineyards and wineries abound around the city Nashik, India’s grape capital. Apart from winery tours, wine tasting and buying wine, travellers can look paired with wine as a wine and food experience. in 2005 with Subsequently, an additional seven rooms were amphitheatre now hosts about 35 to 40 wedding forward to a variety of experiences in and around the city that traces its origins With wine tourism growing and adding to the the opening of added in a separate block on the same site, with events a year. The Source and Beyond have been to ancient times – such as the Godavari river ghats, broad stone steps leading Sula winery experience, it was decided to take on the entire premises named “Beyond by Sula”. number 1 and 2 on Trip Advisor for almost a down to the water and temples; Sita’s Gufa, an underground cave-like space India’s first wine where Sita, Lord Rama’s wife lived for a while during their exile and Panchvati dedicated staff for new ventures. Monit Dhavale However, in 2016, Sula had to give up the 29- year now, making them the two best vineyard which has five old banyan trees close by; the Money Museum at the Indian joined the winery in 2009, bringing with him tasting room, room Beyond resort and villa due to an agreement stays in and around Nashik. And with so many Institute of Research in Numismatic Studies on the Nashik-Trimbakeshwar road; his experience and knowledge of the hospitality making Sula the with the owner of the land, and discussions picturesque sites and photo “ops” at the winery, the revered Jyotirlinga temple at Trimbakeshwar; Gargoti: the Mineral Museum, trade. In 2009, Sula opened its premises for a started about building new accommodations. it’s becoming one of the most Instagramable with an amazing collection of spectacular crystals from the Deccan Trap as well first winery to as from different parts of India and the world, located at the industrial estate wedding, thereby holding what was probably the Looking no further than the winery complex wineries. We take pride in providing employment conduct these at Sinnar, about 25 kms from Nashik; Nandur Madhmeshwar Bird Sanctuary first wedding at a winery-vineyard complex. And itself, it was decided to transform the original to people from surrounding villages who never located in Niphad Taluka, a short drive from the city. in 2010 the popular English play, Class of ’84 was tours winery building into “The Source at Sula”, a 23- had any previous employment opportunities

58 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 59 SHERRY Photos: Gagan Sharma An idea whose time has come Gagan Sharma visits the Sherry Triangle and gives us the lowdown on a great wine style that deserves far more love than it gets

Brewbot eatery and pub brewery in Mumbai

herry is amongst the most versatile and unique wine styles on the planet and has been seriously Sundervalued. are truly natural wines, requiring no human touch to enhance their goodness. Thus, one finds many famous brands but no celebrated winemaker from the Sherry region. This is the only wine style that nature can claim as its true child! In my recent travels to the Sherry Triangle, I became a convert. Drawing out Sherry for tasting from a barrel

ORIGINS AND PRESENT The city of Cadiz in southern Spain was Sherries are truly natural wines, requiring no human first settled in 1110 BC by the Phoenicians, touch to enhance their goodness. Thus, one finds many but it was the Romans who brought the boon famous brands but no celebrated winemaker Bertola produces many different styles of Sherry

60 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 61 TASTING NOTES of viticulture to the region. Even the Muslim winds that counter the heat, and bring some On my recent visit to the region and its producers, I encountered rulers, the Moors, who ruled between the respite. Harvests begin in early-September, some really memorable Finos, Manzanillas, En Ramas, and 8th and the 15th centuries, didn’t arrest and the grapes are pressed almost immediately Amontillados. These are my picks from the lot its production, despite being religiously to retain freshness and acidity. Usually this Tradicion Fino, 12 Years Old separated from alcohol. But it was with the is done in different stages; the first pressing Founded in 1998, Tradición is a hallmark name for high quality, old and super Christians gaining command in the 15th produces the best juice, and the last is suited long-aged Sherries. century that Sherry rose to its true glory. only to being distilled into local brandy. As the Dull golden hue. Subtle opening, savoury and complex from the first sip. Moderate flor and saline character, impressively floral and herbal. A crisp Julian Jeffs, a proficient commentator and fermentation finishes, wines are left to age on mouthfeel, a tad resiny, concentrated, musty, and very pleasing to sip. Powerful, writer on the subject, claims that Sherry was lees, and are tasted periodically; at this point, respectful, gentle. €35 the first wine to enter North America in the winemakers segregate them for their destined wake of Christopher Columbus. styles. The lighter, elegant ones become Fino, Diez Meritos Fino Imperial, 30 Years Amongst the finest Finos in the market, the wine is rare to find. marked with a single slash on the barrels; Dark coloured, nearly amber. Very salty, crunchy, dominated by oak, warm ts popularity, however, has heavier ones are set aside for Oloroso, bearing alcohol, obviously nutty and savoury, developing forest floor and animally resembled a seesaw of rise and fall. two slashes. Finos are fine, dry, yeasty, crisp, character. Bone-dry. A memorable treat. €80 Its monumental surge in the late and elegant wines that are aged biologically, Barbadillo Solear 1970s and 80s brought it ample and Olorosos are nutty, candied, complex, Barbadillo is big, has been in operation since 1821 and produces approximately I 60% of all Manzanilla, located in Sanlucar. attention, but left visible dents on its oaky wines that are matured in the presence quality and image. This led to a consortium of oxygen. All sherries conform to these two Change of style, becomes less aromatic, but adds more layers and character to its personality. Heavy biscuity notes, clay, and yeasty influences. The of Sherry producers to rally at the EU in basic styles initially, and evolve thereafter. oak is prominent, savouriness and toastiness take centerstage. Simple and order to limit the production region and approachable. €10 successfully establish its identity as a legally NATURE TAKES CONTROL protected wine-style in the 90s. Today, Jerez From the first ferment, base wines are Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla En Rama At the forefront of Sanlucar’s production scene, La Gitana has been making de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria, blended and shifted to 600- American oak supreme quality wines since 1792. The En Rama is made in a 19th century and Sanlúcar de Barrameda form the butts, and are filled only up to the 500-litre solera that has approximately 14 levels of ageing, and is released when five ‘Sherry Triangle’ located in Andalusia, a mark, leaving a chamber of air on top. They years old. Mild aromatics with ample chamomile and yellow florals. Slightly toasted and day-trip from Seville, Cordoba or . are fortified to 15% alcoholic strength with evident nutty notes, seaweed and mineral touches emerge later. Quite complex In winespeak it’s said, let your vines suffer a neutral grape spirit. This creates ambient with earthy, saline, and soft herbal notes emerging before a bitter finish. A great Interior of barrel showing a film of yeast on the and they’ll yield you the best produce. Vines conditions for a naturally occurring yeast, introduction to the style. €21 surface of the Sherry, known as flor. Below: Sherry here suffer way more than any of their locally called flor, to develop, inviting it to ageing in oak casks, also known as butts Gonzalez Byass Del Duque Amontillado, 30 Years Old other European counterparts. If it weren’t reside above the liquids in these butts. The Among the most celebrated producers from the region, Gonzalez Byass has a for the ocean winds, Sherry wouldn’t be flor sits like a blanket between the oxygen strong reputation for producing affordable and accessible lines of long-aged in production today. The average seasonal chamber and the wine beneath, protecting wines. temperatures spike up to 40°C in Jerez, it from oxidation and adding its own special Salty caramel almonds are the first notes I draw. Very yeasty, chalky, woody, and savoury, holds a grainy texture, without losing the ripe white fruit rendering viticulture impossible. And the characteristics. The wine continues its process sweetness. Complex, surprisingly refreshing citrus, cedar, toffee, mushrooms, Levante, the strong, dusty, dry, piercingly of ageing and blending in the pyramid-styled leather, and a long lingering aftertaste. Worth a grab. €75 hot wind of the western Mediterranean Sea solera with barrels arranged in a certain Lustau Escuadrilla Amontillado and the southern coast of Spain that blows hierarchical way, following a simple system Dating back to 1896, Lustau has had a reputation for consistent fine wines, towards the east adds to the problem. At of younger wines progressively topping up with its team repeatedly winning the International Wine Challenge trophy for the times its wrath is so fierce that viticulturists older wines as they are taken out. Each top World’s Best Fortified Winemaker year on year fear even venturing out into the vineyards. up is called a criadera or nursery – the Spanish Sweet oxidative ageing notes, floral aromatics, refined, hints of yeast and saline, warm spices, woody hues, kiss of candied touches, mostly tertiary notes It’s the cool and porous, white chalky expression for raising a child. of cedar, sweet tobacco, creaminess, ending with citrus and spice. An absolute Albariza soil, the hardy Palomino grape, Each year a proportion of wine from the delight. €17 and the breezy, soothing, westerly, Poinente final stage of the criaderas is extracted and

62 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 63 interference is called Manzanilla En Rama. As one of the winemakers told me, 65% of all wines consumed in Spain are Manzanillas. And for the small town of Sanlucar, carrying the amiable burden of providing for so many thirsty citizens is quite a task! Over the years, a third style of Sherry has evolved, one that allows a mix of biological and oxidative ageing: this is the Amontillado. In years when the flor is weak and sinks to

the bottom of the barrel after a few years of A selection of sherries from Bodegas Tradicion ageing, winemakers let the liquid continue ageing in an oxidative style. As a result, the finished wine is predominantly yeasty, crisp and light, but has a flirtatious kiss of oxidative characters too, leaning towards nuttiness, husky oak, candy, and a crunch. It isn’t as elegant as a Fino, but has more weight and age, and is therefore able to evolve as a complex treat. I haven’t come across any other wine that has more die-hard fans who appreciate Barrels arranged in a pyramid-style solera for blending and ageing sherries its unique qualities, and yet it has dismal visibility and sales with some restaurants that bottled, and the same amount of new wine is Sibarita in 1792), El Maestro Sierra (1830), don’t feature even a single Sherry on their list. added to the system, maintaining freshness Valdespino (1842) and Gonzalez Byass (1847). It is precisely these reasons that have kept and balance. This last stage of the formation, Wines that fail to develop flor are fortified Sherry prices remarkably affordable. WHY DRINK SHERRY also confusingly called Solera, is the closest Since the further – between 18% and 20% – and aged However, Sherry should be commanding Sherry is perfect for a variety of great to the ground, which in Spanish is called wines keep oxidatively. But those that are blessed with seriously high prices considering the time pairings, given the plethora of styles suelo, hence the name. Since the wines keep flor’s presence need to be aged in humid and efort that goes into its production. Just ranging from aperitif to digestif, and moving within the solera, a wine’s age and moving within and cooler conditions. Having said that, like Epernay is associated with champagne, the unique natural flavours. Be it a the number of vintages contributing to its the solera, a flor develops thicker and more consistently Avignon with châteauneuf du pape, and Vietnamese pho or an Indian curry, a ragout, or a simple serving of olives final blend can only be guessed at, making in the moist and breezy town of Sanlucar de Barossa Valley with shiraz, so Andalusia is wine’s age and and almonds at a bar, there’s no it possible to state only an approximate the number Barrameda. connected with fortified wines, and Sherry- food that sherries can’t be paired average age of the wine. Interestingly, it Salty winds add further layers of complexity, Xerex-Jerez is the undisputed king. Its relative with confidently. Yes, there are sweet can be estimated that some liquid from the of vintages with notes of seaweed, salinity, minerality, and obscurity is mainly due to poor PR, which is avatars too, but they constitute just founding year of the solera is still present in contributing to oyster shells. This heavily ocean-driven Fino- gradually improving. 3% of Sherry production; the majority the system, making this wine probably the styled wine of Sanlucar is called Manzanilla. With sommeliers and mixologists flirting is composed of complex, unique, its final blend thought-provoking wines that are oldest living liquid in the world. Amongst It is an acquired taste, but a perfect match with sherries, there’s a newfound interest in can only be gastronomically compatible in the oldest still in use are those at for the local seafood. Manzanilla made with the style and we hope that the Sherry wave every sense. Osborne (Capuchino laid down in 1790 and guessed at a vintage character and very little human will hit the shores of our subcontinent too. v

64 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 65 OTHERDRINKS RECOMMENDED allows them to cut the leaves or pencas without BRANDS AVAILABLE hurting themselves. Once the leaves have IN INDIA Understanding been removed, all that is left is the pina which resembles a giant pineapple and usually weighs El Jimador Blanco & Reposado >> up to 60 or 70kgs. This brand is amazing value Although agave is indigenous to Mexico, for money. 100% Blue Agave. to produce Tequila, the agave plants can only Smooth, citrusy, medium bodied tequila. A great choice come from five regions: Jalisco, Tamaulipas, for the newbies in the category. TEQUILA Michoacan, Nayarit and Guanajato. The Reposado expression is also really good and makes a HOW IS TEQUILA MADE ? great choice for those who Step one: Processing the raw material to get John Leese sugars << Calle 23 Blanco offers a primer on The agave plants are heated to soften the flesh, Tequila made its Sophie Decobeq’s ultimate Mexican Tequila, either in a stone oven known as a hornos if the expression of agave. Slightly producer follows traditional methods or in an first appearance spicy and more full bodied, including recipes autoclave if the operation has been modernised. fantastic in cocktails with in 1795, a spirit flavours of sharp green and the brands The pinas are usually heated for 24 to 36 hours produced in a apples and pears. and left to rest for 12. available in this Next, the pinas must be crushed to squeeze out small area in country the juice known as aguamiel or honey water. This Mexico that grew is done by using a small pit or tahona which has a into a town which giant wheel that goes round and round pressing was affectionately Arette Blanco >> the pinas. Some producers still prefer to use a A great brand with e have all heard that magical and called Tequila. In 1974, Tequila was given its stone wheel pulled by a donkey. called Tequila. awesome flavours of frightful phrase, “How about own geographical indication and appellation herbs, lemongrass and In 1974, Tequila cooked agave. WTequila?” received with either a of origin just like Cognac or Champagne. Step 2: Fermentation was given its own shiver or a loud cheer. However, there is more to This means that Tequila must come from To produce alcohol of any kind three elements this spirit than most people know, dating back to specific areas and be made with specific raw are required, sugar, water and yeast. Water is geographical Pre-Colombian Mexico. materials and production methods. In 1994 added to the aguamiel and then yeast. The yeast indication and << 1800 Reposado a government body was created to oversee will eat the sugar and convert it to alcohol. Once appellation of A lovely premium FERTILITY GODDESS IDOLS the production of Tequila, known as CRT or the producer has finished this process, he will brand. Flavours of origin toasted coconut, vanilla, It was believed that the goddess of fertility, Consejo Regulador del Tequila. have a low alcohol wine. mocha, gentle spice and Cihuacoatl (pronounced soo-ah-kotl) had cinnamon finish. transformed herself into an agave (a-ga-vay) plant WHAT IS TEQUILA MADE FROM? Step 3: Distillation so she could provide the people with a plant Due to the spikey nature of the plant, most The low alcohol wine is placed in a Still Jose Cuervo Reserva De La that could offer them whatever they needed as people think it is a cactus. This unfortunately is and heated. The liquid gets hotter and creates Familia Anejo >> liquids, fibres, soaps, footwear and even alcohol. incorrect. The plant species actually belongs to vapours. These vapours are chemicals, but not This is an incredible, super The alcohol at that time was a fermented agave the Lily family and takes up to 12 years to reach every chemical is desired and only the corazon or premium tequila from one of the world’s most renowned known as (pul-kay). This is still available its full maturity. Most are harvested around 10 heart of the distillate is sectioned off. This is the Tequila producers. Classy and today and there are bars that specialise in it years. The fields of agave are carefully looked chemical as ethanol or potable alcohol. elegant flavours of agave, called, “pulquerias”. after by farmers known as jimadors. The vapours from the heart run through a series gingerbread, cinnamon, bitter Tequila made its first appearance in 1795, Jimadors use a unique tool called coa to cut the of coils that are submerged in cold water. Cold chocolate, coffee and subtle citrus tones. This is definitely a spirit produced in a small area in Mexico prickly leaves of the agave. This tool is a circular tubes filled with hot air create condensation and one to sip, with so much that grew into a town which was affectionately blade at the end of a medium length pole which it is by this method that alcohol is transformed character, it will give single malts a run for their money.

66 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 67 Sommelier INDIA

back into liquid form. All by law must be distilled twice. The first distillate is called ordinario. The second distillate is called Tequila.

Step 4: Maturation There are several categories of tequila, with defined maturation lengths. Blanco, Plata, Silver These are the purest form of tequilas highlighting the essence of the agave. They can be bottled straight after distillation or aged for a maximum of 60 days in a stainless steel vat. Reposado The word translates as “rested”. These tequilas are aged for no less than 60 days and up to ON THE a maximum of one year in oak casks. They take on From left to right: Plata, Reposado and Añejo tequilas the colour and flavours from the barrels. Flavours MOE known as vanillins are comprised of notes of toffee, coffee and caramel. FOUR AMAZING, CONTEMPORARY Anejo The word translates as “aged”. These e are now TEQUILA COCKTAILS TO TRY tequilas are aged for no less than one year and for Tommy’s Margarita Silk Stocking a maximum of three. The tequila gains even more available A stunning contemporary twist from This beauty was created in 2009 by character and a bit of spice from the wood. Julio Bermejo, owner of Tommy’s in Ryan Chetiyawardana who has opened Extra Anejo or “extra aged”. These tequilas digitally INDIA San Francisco. Julio is one of two of numerous bars that have been in the can easily rival single malts or cognacs in terms the only Mexicans appointed as global world’s top 50 bars for the last five or of complexity. They are beautiful expressions that Tequila ambassadors. six years. as soon as age T AAapa alle ines should be sipped and enjoyed neat. Sommelier WOMEN’S INFLUENCE GROWS 60ml Blanco Tequila 60ml Blanco Tequila the print Burunds 20ml Lime juice 25ml Crème de Cacao white Calis FLAVOUR DIFFERENCES age 15ml Agave Nectar 10ml Grenadine THE BEST OF CHARDONNAY Shaken and strained in 25ml Half cream , half milk There are two distinct styles of tequila. The magaine to a rocks glass on ice, Shaken and double strained in to a difference really comes from where the agave is inoles & garnished with two lime wheels. martini glass, garnished with a dust of grown. Highland agave tend to produce lighter, goes on inaturesBORDEAUX’S Clu TOP cinnamon powder. FAMILIES CELEBRATEage more citrusy and floral tequilas. Lowland agave tend to produce more earthy, mineral heavy and sale, to read airin

Paloma Pink Chihuahua spicy tequilas. Food & ineage From the late Dick Bradsell at El Camion CINNAMON CLUB IN LONDON Created by the legendary Don The vast array of flavour expressions makes online on Javier Delgado Corona, owner of La in London. Creator of many famous Tequila an extremely versatile spirit for cocktail ine Basics Capilla cocktail bar in the town of modern classics such as the Bramble HOW TO ORDERage WINE Tequila. and the Espresso commonly making. Even classic cocktails that have different your iad, Latest known as the Espresso Martini. spirit bases have their own Tequila variants. 60ml Blanco Tequila Espresso Martinis, Bloody Marias, Tequila Old ihone or edition 15ml Lime juice 60ml Blanco Tequila 10ml Agave nectar 15ml Lime juice Fashioneds and Negronis. potlit 80ml Pink Grapefruit juice 10ml Lemon juice So to summarise, tequila is not to be feared, but Android available Top up with soda. 15ml Grenadine should be explored. There are so many variants, A Shake first four ingredients, strain 5ml Orgeat (almond syrup) device. NO SPANISH WINES’ AMAZING VARIETY age into a Hi-ball with ice and top up 1 Egg white from so many different brands. It really is quite DAS PREMER E MAGAE COTROED CRCUATO with soda water. Garnish with a Shake very hard and double strain in to a journey. On your travels, do ask bartenders for Slice of Pink Grapefruit and if you a martini glass and garnish with a lime their tequila cocktail recommendations. You will want, you can add a salt rim. wedge. be pleasantly surprised. v

68 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 MEETTHECHEF SPICE ODYSSEY Chef Julia Komp

Julia Komp interacts continuously with the team of chefs at Ottimo, ITC Gardenia, Bengaluru, issuing a steady stream of instructions, accentuated by emphatic nods and smiles. Despite the pressure of putting together a plated service for 50 guests, the team smiles back — some of them even have the time for a joke or two. Not what you would expect in a kitchen where the visiting chef is presenting her cuisine with barely 48 hours of preparation, part of her travels across 19 countries, cooking, exploring ingredients and understanding local gastronomy. Komp works with single-minded precision, moving back and forth from the kitchen, plating with concentration and neat efficiency. Everything about her is both relaxed and focused; she pauses mid-service to pose casually for a photographer, and has the energy to change into a brilliant blue silk sari at the end of a hectic evening. These are the qualities that won her a Michelin star at the age of 26, at the restaurant Schloss Loersfeld in Germany. Komp has quickly established her own, distinctive style of cooking. Spices, the ultimate luxury goods traded across continents as far back as 3500 years ago, define her dishes in the most modern and imaginative way. As part of the ITC Hotels’ Global Tastes initiative of creating a platform for cultural exchange through cuisine, Komp has just worked her way across five Indian cities, presenting a menu based on her travels. The flavours are light, distinctive, yet harmonious. The Hiramasa Kingfish is perfectly textured, the inflexions of tandoori masala just strong enough. It is served with moulded lentils and the unexpected flavours of Rambutan. A delicate, minty quenelle of ice cream accents a dish of three kinds of tomatoes and passion fruit, as simultaneously, a tremulous sphere of green tomato explodes in the mouth. Each of the elements is clear and refined on its own, exquisite when combined. Komp blends modern technique with absolute flavour drawn from her experience of multiple cuisines, and synthesizes them elegantly, vividly, onto the plate. During her visit to India, en route to Brazil, she spoke with Kaveri Ponnapa about travel, spices, her life in the restaurant kitchen and teamwork

Taking on a culinary internship at the age of kitchen was fun; time passed very quickly. I 14 must have required great determination. was working with much older people, and Did you always want to make a career in they were surprised at how much I knew about cooking? food. I began to love cooking, and the time I We had to take an internship at school. My spent in the kitchen. I remained there. grandparents always took me to good hotels and restaurants, so I was familiar with hotels, In what way would you say your style is I liked the life, so I chose to intern in one. different from other German chefs? I also noticed that all the good-looking boys In Germany we have a lot of good chefs. were going to the gym at the hotel! I found Many of them go in the direction of seasonal, Julia Komp, visiting chef at ITC Gardenia, Bengaluru, room service boring, and there was too much local German farm produce. I am not afraid has travelled across several bickering in other areas of work. But the to use a lot of flavour and to experiment, countries, cooking and exploring ingredients 70 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 71 especially with the use of spice, or French and Austrian cuisine; all the cooking there gave me a taste for spice. took a lot of pictures and when I look doing things differently — sometimes basics and techniques that I learnt in My personal preference is for Oriental at them, the ideas come back. Now I we use fruit in place of vegetables. the last 10 years, I now translate to food. For me, it’s easy to cook what I need time in my own kitchen to reflect, People are surprised and interested by my style of fusion cuisine. I add a lot like and what I am happy with, because to think how to put all this experience what they do not expect. of flavours from Asian, Indian and that is what you cook best. and these ideas into my cuisine. Right Arabic countries to my food. now, I don’t have a team. I need a team; How would you describe your current The courses that you created and served it’s always good to cook as a team. culinary style? You use spices in subtle and unexpected were both refined and flavour- intense. My cuisine is very light, spicy and ways. What sparked this interest? Tell us about some of the techniques Are there any spices that you learned fruity. But not spicy like chilli: it’s more I always preferred to eat spicy food. that you use to achieve this result. about for the first time, on this visit to of cardamom and all the other spices If it’s a choice between spaghetti and In Germany we use a lot of techniques, India? you use in India. I think of aromatics kebab, I would choose kebab. My but for that you need a big supporting I know all the spices used in India, like lemon grass and kaffir limes as grandmother had a house in Tunisia team, which is difficult while travelling. especially since I interned at an Indian spices too, as much as star anise and and our neighbours had a small, I prefer to work with what is available: restaurant in Malaysia. What they use clove. My training was in traditional artisanal spice business. Living and good quality ingredients, and using a lot are the brown or black mustard some techniques to maximum effect. seeds. In Germany we use only the light For instance, with spheres you can ones. Your masala is like our Christmas achieve an intense explosion of spices; but people use it very carefully, flavours on the palate, which is always maybe one clove, or a stick of cinnamon memorable. Other things are simple — in basic stock. Here, in India, people add you can serve a carrot, but you can work a lot of spices. I love this: the full power, Chef Julia Komp knows all the spices used in India on form and taste in presentation. In the full umami. You have to know how this menu, I have concentrated on taste to combine the flavours: fruity, salty, to showcase my travels across Japan, spicy, to make an outstanding dish. I learned a lot of things working in different styles Thailand, India and the Middle East, by of kitchens. Some were Michelin-starred restaurants, Is there any single Indian cooking trying to capture some of the flavours I but also a traditional Pho kitchen in Vietnam experienced in each country. technique that struck you as unique, which you may like to experiment with and a small curry kitchen in Thailand Above, left: Lamb with Persian lime, baba ganoush and pumpkin; right: Tiger prawns After seven months of travel across in the future? with tomato, ricotta, coriander and passionfruit. Below: Araguani chocolate dessert with cardamom, rose and coffee 19 countries, what do you hope to I love Indian pickles. This is a wonderful know anyone. The expectations are What is your new restaurant going take back to your own restaurant and taste. Everywhere in the world there are different. Men are accepted quite to be like? What can we expect in cooking from your experiences? pickles. In Germany we make them in naturally. It’s extremely important for terms of ambience and food? I learned a lot of things as I worked in such a simple way: maybe just cucumber, me to have a team that is like a family. It will be very light, casual, with different styles of kitchens. Some were vinegar, salt and water. In India, there In Germany, my team worked very touches of Morocco in the décor. Michelin-starred restaurants, but also are so many complex flavours: salty, hard for me, and I liked to share my It will not be an Indian or Asian a traditional Pho kitchen in Vietnam spicy, sweet. I love pickles! successes with them. In Bangalore, the restaurant. I want an open kitchen, and a small curry kitchen in Thailand. team was so young. There was a boy where my guests can see me working. These were local kitchens where they At Ottimo, Bengaluru, you were who was just beginning his training It will certainly be Michelin-quality served the local specialties. I also worked leading a team of chefs you were as a chef, he barely knew anything, but cuisine, I have no doubt that I am in a family restaurant in Morocco, working with for the first time. Yet you he was motivated, trying his best to do aiming for a second star! The cuisine where three women in the kitchen looked very relaxed, and your team whatever I told him to. I love that. I will be influenced by Asian and Arabic were cooking and serving their family was relaxed too. How did you keep the try to keep things easy. I respect their flavours, which will be used with recipes handed down the generations. I atmosphere stress-free? work, and they respect mine. When more precision. The presentations have notebooks filled with information It’s very hard for women chefs to everyone is happy, the results are good, will be more evolved. I hope it will be I wrote down. There was so much. I work in new kitchens where you don’t and everything works well. a really nice restaurant. v Photos: Melanie Bauer

72 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 73 FINEDINING: MUMBAI flow throughout the restaurant space. Qualia is open for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, each meal offering a different menu selection. The meal starts Here’s A Fine Pickle! off with a bang with the best bread basket in the city which, at the risk of being Rahul Akerkar’s long-awaited Mumbai restaurant, over indulged in, must not be missed. Qualia serves a modern, pickle-inspired menu with Some of the highlights of the dinner a variety of alcoholic beverages menu include the Steak Tartare with pickled mushrooms and cured egg yolk, served with a freshly baked sourdough roll to soak up the yolk, Charred hef Rahul Akerkar is unofficially do next. The wait ended when Qualia high wall of shelves stacked with Pumpkin, with ricotta, Bhavnagri chili, known as the father of stand- opened in April 2019, located in the filled with garnishes, Ayurvedic herbs preserved lemon and white bean purée Calone fine dining eateries in newly built Lodha World One Tower in and other ingredients used in the drinks. and a selection of pizzas fresh out of Mumbai, with restaurants such as Lower Parel. To the left, is the main dining room, the wood burning oven. Don’t expect Clockwise from top: Steak Tartare; Textures of Bitter Chocolate; Charred Pumpkin; Under the Over, Just Desserts and the As you drive up to it, the restaurant which looks out to the open kitchen conventional toppings, but be prepared Tequila-based, Over the Wall cocktail highly acclaimed Indigo under his belt. offers up a hundred-foot-long glass façade stretched along the entire length of the for an adventure of flavours. The QFC When he stepped away from Indigo to the street, which ensures a space filled room. A section of the dining area can be (Qualia Fried Chicken), the restaurant’s in 2016 after 17 years, the city watched with natural light. On entering, to the cleverly cordoned off for a private dining take on a fried chicken burger, was a with anticipation to see what he would right is a 20-foot long bar in front of a space, separated by metallic drapes that definite hit with the soft burger buns and crispy patty. Rahul Akerkar, chef-owner of Qualia, adding finishing touches to a dish in his open kitchen, which stretches along the entire length of the room When it comes to desserts, it’ll be hard to pick just one. Favourites include Rice and Pickled Berries, roasted rice ice cream, rice pudding, and puffed rice; Textures of Bitter Chocolate, with chocolate Rs 3,250 to Rs 42,000, sorbet, ganache, ‘soil’ PERSONAL with the Chef’s picks RECOMMENDATION or chocolate crumble listed under a section and chocolate wafer, or What to Know called “Rahul Loves”. An emphasis on fermenting Churros, with a different and pickling lays the Asked about the ice cream flavour every foundation for each dish name of the restaurant, GETTING THERE: including some of the day. Akerkar explains, Qualia desserts and beverages Ground Floor, Lodha World Crest The beverage offering What to Eat “Qualia means, ‘the has a range of signature QFC chicken burger, quality of a sensory 402 Senapati Bapat Marg Charred pumpkin with and classic cocktails, which experience’. It’s the Lower Parel, Mumbai 400013 ricotta, Bhavnagri chili Tel: +91 73045 86862 | include elements that have with lemon and white bean quality of the essence of +91 22 6849 0000 undergone treatments like purée, Steak tartare with something. It perfectly pickled mushrooms and E: [email protected] fermenting, pickling, and encapsulates what we cured egg yolk, served with smoking. It also has a wine sourdough roll are trying to achieve with Lunch 11am to 3pm What to Drink list featuring over 120 our restaurant.” Dinner 6.30pm to 1.00am Tequila-based ‘Over the mostly international and We agree. Wall’ cocktail, ‘Djinn ’ Monday to Saturday some Indian labels, sorted and Akerkar’s picks on the — Gauri Devidayal Qualia BBQ 11am to 11pm by style and priced from wine list every Sunday How Much Meal for two Rs 3,500 ++ with one drink each 74 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 75 PAIRINGFOOD&WINE

Partners in ines almost season food,” ways with milk and sugar” and gives declares Laurent Chaniac, European desserts an Indian touch Wwine consultant to with preparations such as Mango kulfi London’s Cinnamon Club, a group of with Raspberry crumble and quinoa, or esteemed Indian restaurants. He often Saffron poached pear with tapioca and designs ad-hoc dishes to be matched lime payasam, paired on the menu with with specific wines so that the wine an Austrian Gruner Veltliner. “I want becomes the seasoning element of the the flavours of a dish to come from the food. Chaniac has worked closely for the ingredients, not from salt or sugar,” he WINE past 18 years with CEO and Executive says.” In London’s famous Cinnamon Club, food and wines are imaginatively Chef Vivek Singh who is originally from Singh and Chaniac’s close working paired – a feat accomplished by the pairing of a great chef with an equally Bengal and worked with the Oberoi partnership means that wines have Group before opening his first London influenced Singh’s recipe development. great wine consultant. Carol Wright describes the long-standing working restaurant in 2001 – the Cinnamon Both men deconstruct wine and dishes partnership between Vivek Singh and Laurent Chaniac Club in the Old Westminster Library to overcome the old notion of spicy near the Houses of Parliament. The food not marrying with wines. They Cinnamon Club reflects its history with have done it by breaking down wine books lining both the dining room and and food into their components and the bar. then putting the appropriate pair At the Cinnamon Club, Singh together. Chaniac will make suggestions , rich but not cloyingly sweet, created a new approach to Indian food, to Singh. (“Chefs are amazing tasters,” pairs well with a Saffron poached pear tapioca and lime payasam dessert modifying Indian flavours and using he says). He may suggest that a lighter European techniques. Local ingredients meat needs to go with Singh’s tamarind and traditional western recipes are sauce; or less chilli in another recipe given an Indian twist. For example, or onion seeds reduced, so that wines venison from the Balmoral Estate in will match more readily. As Chaniac At the Cinnamon Scotland is cooked in a tandoor and observes, “Understanding ingredients is Club, Vivek Singh served with fenugreek and a black stone the key to successful pairing.” created a new flower reduction, popular in Chettinad cuisine. Singh, who appears on TV and enus, once changed every approach to Indian has written a number of cookbooks, day, now move with the food, modifying likes to separate ingredients so they “can Mseasons while the 400-label Indian flavours and express themselves”. wine list is reprinted twice a month to using European “I don’t want to chop up meat or update vintages and add Chaniac’s new fish, smother it with sauce and then finds. Brought up in the Ardeche area techniques cook it to death,” he says. Instead of France, Chaniac came to London he takes a Tamworth pork chop and with a degree in hospitality to learn cooks it separately, to order, before English and has worked at several serving it with a Goan sauce. Singh says places including Harrods, The Square, London’s Cinnamon Club restaurant and bar is lined with books harking back to its time as the Old Westminister Library Indian desserts consist of “a hundred The Stafford where he “caught the wine

76 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 77 virus” and L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. have developed the idea of a 90-minute in stone fruit flavours with balanced He travels for three to four months of the relaxed masterclass in marrying wine acidity, to cut through the sweetness year, seeking out new wines, particularly and spicy food served in small snacking and spiciness of this dish. those with a natural character that have plates, to guests seated at a U-shaped The little Sambal dishes of raita served not been over-marketed. table, with questions being encouraged. at the Cinnamon Club contain smoked His list includes many wines by the Wine dominates the concept, with the paprika flavouring, which again reduces glass and wines from Croatia, Uruguay, tasting order being wine, food, wine, so heat in food. Sesame seeds support wine Tasmania, Hungary and . India that the taster can evaluate how food and soften it while the use of tamarind is well represented in both red and changes the taste of wine and vice versa. softens acidity in wines. Saffron is earthy white wines. Whites are a 2017 Sula Singh’s own menus have always placed and an amenable spice to go with wines. Sauvignon Blanc and a Fratelli M/S wine centre stage. At such an evening, Though spice heat is the biggest pairing Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc. The dishes and paired wines can include challenge (fennel is a good ingredient to reds are a 2015 Grover Zampa Cabernet stir-fried shrimp with chilli and apricot soften heat) spices can often be aromatic Sauvignon Shiraz, a 2017 Sula Shiraz, glaze paired with a Portuguese Petillant rather than hot and go well with tannins a 2012 Fratelli Sangiovese-Cabernet Vinho Verde which gives an acidic and oaked red wines. Sauvignon and a 2016 Fratelli J’Noon, partner to the sweetness of the prawns. Chaniac is particularly fond of his a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, A Lamb Biryani with raita comes with discovery; a 2015 Sv Roko Above: Chef Vivek Singh in the dining Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Marselan. an Argentinian Malbec. wine made from the grape that room of the Cinnamon Club Part of the secret of pairing food and likes a lot of sunshine. “It’s big and bold Right: Wine consultant Laurent haniac delights in North , according to Chaniac, is not only with firm tannins, but not aggressive, and Chaniac who has worked closely wines and Portuguese wines to know the make up of the wine, but when drunk with tandoori meat dishes, with Singh for 18 years Cfrom the Setubal area. While also the dish’s ingredients and how they the acidity in the wine softens.” He pairs Below: Octopus in tomato and lemon training wine staff in the Group’s are cooked. Many of Singh’s dishes are it with Singh’s roast saddle of Romney sauce infused with chilli. A sweetish dish that is softened by the fruity restaurants, he makes sure there are at cooked in tandoors and Chaniac says Marsh Lamb with sesame tamarind sauce A corner of the well-appointed dining room aromatics of German Riesling least two or three chefs present so that the smoky flavour imparted from the and pickled root vegetables. With Singh’s at Cinnamon Club cutting through the sweetness they too understand the wines. Singh Indian clay ovens works well with earthy dessert of Saffron poached pear tapioca and Chaniac have put on many wine- minerality in a wine and softens any and lime payasam, he pairs a Malvasia paired dinners, including a clay-themed oaky charcoal tones. Therefore, tannin- which is rich but not cloyingly sweet such one with wines from Georgia, Sicily, filled reds go well with these dishes. as the Malvasia Passito Vigna del Volta, Spain and Italy. Wines produced in clay Tandoori prawns is a dish that softens La Stoppa from Italy’s Emilia Romagna Tandoori prawns is a pots which are porous, are softened and tannins, and Chaniac discovered that region. dish that softens tannins. onion seed also softens the wine and Chaniac, who is a sommelier become smooth as if matured in oak, Chaniac discovered that says Chaniac. brings fruit forward. and knowledgeable about organic and Singh thinks the tradition of seven- biodynamic wines, seeks out lesser onion seed also softens course tasting menus with seven sweetish dish of Octopus known wines from up and coming the wine and brings interruptions to have wines explained, in tomato and lemon sauce regions. He then dissects them, fruit forward which take up a whole evening is Ainfused with a little chilli weighing up their harmony and flavour more for “wine buffs” than for regular is softened by the fruity aromatics of balance to decide which spices they diners, though the Cinnamon Club German Riesling cutting through the help to season. “There’s always a wine does have a seven-course paired tasting sweetness; the wine becoming softer to sort out different spice heats,” he menu available. He believes younger and more fruity in contact with the says. The Cinnamon Club diner can wine drinkers want a shorter and more food. Chaniac would also recommend any of Singh’s Indian imaginatively informal tasting. With this in mind, they a Terres Blanches Sec 2017, rich spiced dishes. v

78 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 79 WINEBASICS How to Order Wine at a Restaurant PHOTOFINISH Memorable moments in wine from the Sommelier India photo album Easy guidelines to ordering wine like a pro when you eat out Wine Family Histories rdering wine at a restaurant can corkage fee that typically ranges from Obe intimidating – like you’re being $10 to $25 in the US. he second title from Académie du Vin Library, thrown into a complex ritual without  If you want to bring wine to a T“10 Great Wine Families – a tour through knowing the rules. But if you know the restaurant, call first and make sure it’s Europe” by Master of Wine Fiona Morrison was basics, it’s pretty straightforward. okay. Some restaurants don’t allow released this July at a reception hosted by Berry Bros diners to bring their own wine. & Rudd at their London cellars in St James’s SW1. A

BOTTLE OR GLASS?  When you call, make sure that the great time was had by all in the company of some of The age-old question, to get a bottle or restaurant doesn’t already carry the the world’s most prestigious winemakers. The book order by the glass? In general, ordering wine you want to bring. It’s bad form presents an insider’s view on what drives these families by the bottle is more cost-effective. But THE WINE LIST to bring a wine that a restaurant to produce some of the world’s finest wines. Fiona is there are reasons to order wine by the A restaurant might have 15 wines on its carries on its list. a writer and winemaker who works closely with her glass. list – or 150. Every entry on the list will husband, Jacques Thienpont, at their three Bordeaux

 If your table won’t drink a full bottle tell you the name of the wine, the winery THE WINE SERVING RITUAL estates – Le Pin (Pomerol),

 If you want more than one wine that produced it, the vintage, and the When wine is served in restaurants, L’If (Saint-Emilion) and during your dinner price. If a wine is available by the glass the waiter usually follows a specific Château L’Hêtre (Côtes de

 If you and your dinner companion(s) and by the bottle, the wine list will show procedure. Castillon). The Académie du

 Vin Library (which partners are ordering foods that are difficult to prices for both. All wine lists, long or The waiter presents the bottle to you Wine producers featured in “10 Great Wine pair with a single wine short, organise wines by type (white, red, This allows you to check that the wine with Sommelier India) is Families”, from left to right: Dirk Niepoort, François etc.). Some lists may also organise by is actually what you ordered. Really a new publishing house Perrin, Count Lamberto Frescobaldi, Fiona Morrison, Emmerich Knoll Snr, Emmerich Knoll Jnr, ORDERING WINE  Country of origin do check, because waiters can make dedicated to publishing the Jacques Thienpont (Fiona’s husband) and Miguel Restaurants typically serve two different  Varietal mistakes, so the bottle could be the finest wine writing of the Torres Jnr. Left: Some of the iconic wines donated by the families for the launch of the book categories of wine: house wines and list  Price wrong vintage or even the wrong wine. past, present and future. wines. Very high-end restaurants may  Body (light-bodied wines on top, full- Also take the chance to touch the bottle also have a reserve list you can ask to see bodied below) and test its temperature. The bottle if you’re feeling like a big spender. One good way to choose wine from a should be cool to the touch (white wines list is to pick one that you’ve never had slightly colder than red).

HOUSE WINES before but that’s made from a grape  The waiter removes the cork and The is what you get when you variety you know you like. Another is to presents it to you just ask for red or white wine without describe to your waiter what you like in The condition of the cork can hint any further specification. While house a wine and ask for a recommendation. whether a wine has spoiled. If the cork wines at quality restaurants are usually To get more expert advice, you could ask smells bad or seems either shriveled or perfectly acceptable, they’re never to speak to the person at the restaurant wet, the wine may be bad. extraordinary. The house wine has to who manages the wine list. Higher-end  The waiter pours a little wine into appeal to many people, which means restaurants may employ a fulltime wine your glass it can’t be too interesting. Besides, manager or sommelier. Sniff and taste the wine to see whether even the best restaurants choose house it’s gone bad. If it has gone bad (and wines that are as cheap as they can get BRINGING YOUR OWN WINE wines sometimes do go bad), be kind but Chevaliers belonging to the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin of away with. House wines are usually Many restaurants allow you to bring not too apologetic and send it back. Ambassador Jean Claude Kugener of Burgundy, from left to right: Sanjiv Kehr, Sunil Nandrajog, Dhruv Sawhney, available by the glass or carafe, a wide- your own wine, which the waiter then If the wine is fine, tell the waiter to Luxembourg with Antoine Clasen, Director Rajiv Kehr and Renaud Palliere pictured with Reva K. Singh at a dinner at General of Bernard Massard, producer of necked vessel that holds a bottle’s uncorks and serves to you. For this proceed. The waiter will fill your guests’ the elegant members’ only club, “Home”, Ambience Mall, Vasant Kunj, Luxembourg wines distributed in India by Hema v New Delhi worth of wine. service restaurants typically charge a glasses first, then yours. Inc. Barnes and Noble Wine Copyright Credit: our archives. From Connoisseur Collections

80 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 81 temperatures that causes a failure of grapes to develop after flowering. Flowers stay closed and are not fertilized. It also occurs in vines that have little sugar content in their tissue.

CUVEÉ A blend or special lot glossary of wine.

DECANT Pouring wine out of the bottle to aerate and remove sediment AMARONE The most famous dried tissues. Puckering is a tactile response in the process of fining. Clay is mixed grape wine in Italy produced from the to compounds such as tannins. into wine to clarify it. As the clay settles DISGORGING (DÉGORGEMENT) same grapes and in the same zones as to the bottom, it absorbs and carries with Disgorging in sparkling wines involves . High quality grape bunches AUSLESE A classification in the German it suspended particles. the freezing and ejection of yeasty are dried, often allowing Botrytis to form QmP system that means “selected”. sediment that settles in the neck of a on the grapes. The grapes are then These wines are sweeter than Spätlese. BIODYNAMIC A way of farming without bottle after the second fermentation. pressed and fermented, resulting in an the use of chemical or synthetic sprays intense, highly alcoholic wine with some BALANCE A reference to the harmonious or fertilisers, vinified with natural yeast, DIURNAL RANGE The difference oxidative qualities that vary depending relationship between the acids, alcohol, and minimal use of filtration, sulphur, between day and night temperatures. on the presence of . tannins and other compounds in wine. and chaptalisation. Biodynamic grape Cool nights help slow the loss of aromas the addition of brandy or other neutral after disgorging to balance high levels growers also base their planting and and acidity in the grapes during ripening. spirits. of acidity. APPELLATION D’ORIGINE AVA An AVA is an American Viticultural harvesting schedule by astrological Warm nights accelerate ripening. CONTRÔLÉE (AOC) This is the French Area that has been recognized by the events and cycles. GRAND CRU A wine of the highest rank METHUSELAH An extra large bottle appellation system that controls and federal government for a distinctive DOSAGE In bottle-fermented sparkling or reputation within its appellation. holding six litres; the equivalent of eight designates wines, spirits, cheeses, combination of soil, climate, and BLANC DE BLANCS A term literally wines, a small amount of (usually sweet) standard bottles. and other foods of distinct geographic identifiable regional wine character. AVAs meaning, “white of whites,” referring to wine is added back to the bottle after the GREEN HARVEST Trimming unripe regions in France. Pessac-Léognan is are often referred to as appellations or wine that is made from white grapes. yeast sediment that collects in the neck grapes to decrease crop yields, thereby MOUSSE Effervescence or frothiness an important wine appellation created districts. The word appellation (and the For example, champagne produced with of the bottle is disgorged. increasing the concentration of flavours in the mouth from a sparkling wine. A in 1987 in Northern Graves, Bordeaux, AVA concept) comes from the French only chardonnay grapes. in the remaining bunches. ‘creamy’ mousse is a lively sparkle on renowned for red wines with longevity. Appellation d’Origine Côntrolée laws, DRY WINE A wine which has no sugar the palate without being too frothy. which are meant to ensure quality within BLANC DE NOIRS Literally, “white of levels or has levels that are so low that HALBTROCKEN Means “half dry” in (ar-nez) is a white Italian grape specific regions of France. blacks”, describing a white wine made they cannot be detected by the tongue. German and in wine. MOUTHFEEL The tasting term used variety originating from Piedmont. Arneis from black grapes, usually pinot noir in particularly for red wines to describe the (little rascal, in Piemontese) is a difficult BARRIQUE French word for barrel. champagne. EN PRIMEUR is commonly associated JEROBOAM An oversized bottle texture of a wine within the mouth. This grape to grow. A crisp, floral varietal, the Used worldwide to describe any small with where the previous holding the equivalent of six bottles. relates to attributes such as smoothness wines tend to be dry and full bodied with oak cask. BODY The impression of weight or year’s harvest is available for tasting and In Champagne, a jeroboam holds four or grittiness. Among the factors that notes of pears and apricots. fullness on the palate; usually the result contract sales several months before the bottles. influence a wine’s mouthfeel are tannin, BEERENAUSLESE The fourth level of of a combination of glycerin, alcohol wine will be bottled and released. acidity, body and bitterness. ASSEMBLAGE The blending of base the German QmP system. Wines of this and sugar. KABINETT The first level of the German wines to create a final cuveé, or blend. classification are made from grapes that FERMENTATION The process of QmP rating system, indicating wine MUST The unfermented juice of grapes This is a crucial part of the champagne are harvested later and have some noble BOTRYTIS CINEREA A beneficial form converting sugar into alcohol and carbon made from ripe berries that are not extracted by crushing or pressing. Also vinification process. rot. They tend to be rich and sweet. of Botrytis bunch rot commonly referred dioxide affected by the oxygen free purposefully harvested late. This is the grape juice in the cask or vat before it is ASTRINGENCY A sensation of to as “noble rot” that produces flavours metabolism of yeast. driest of the designations. converted into wine. puckering or drying of the mouth’s BENTONITE A type of clay that is used that harmonise with the grape flavours. One of the most famous is the sweet FILTRATION Straining solid particles LATE HARVEST On labels, indicates NEBUCHADNEZZAR A giant wine wine, Sauternes. in wine with various types of filters. An that a wine was made from grapes picked bottle holding 15 litres; the equivalent of alternative to natural settling,it speeds later than normal and at a higher sugar 20 standard bottles. BRUT A general term used to designate up the winemaking process, allowing level than normal. Often associated with a relatively dry (low sugar content) better control. It is sometimes argued botrytized and dessert-style wines. NOUVEAU A style of light, fruity, youthful champagne or sparkling wine. that filtration strips a fine wine of some red wine bottled and sold as soon as of its complexity and capacity for aging. LEES Spent yeasty sediment remaining possible. Applies mostly to Beaujolais. CHARMAT Method of producing in a barrel or tank during and after sparkling wines, aka, Metodo Italiano FINING The process of clarification and fermentation. NON-VINTAGE Blended from more than or Martinotti-Charmat with the second stabilisation by adding a clarifying agent one vintage. This allows the vintner to fermentation in stainless steel tanks to coagulate or absorb the colloids in a LEGS Droplets of wine that slide down maintain a house style from year to year. instead of the bottle as in the traditional wine for efficient precipitation. Commonly the glass after swirling it. This is a good Many and sparkling wines, méthode champenoise. used fining agents include egg whites, indicator of the wine’s alcohol content. ports and sherries are non-vintage. fish bladders (isinglass) and bentonite. COULURE (pronounced coo-LYUR) D’EXPÉDITION A mix of OXIDISED Wine that has been exposed is triggered by periods of cold, cloudy, FORTIFIED Denotes a wine whose wine and a small amount of sugar that too long to oxygen and taken on a rainy weather or very high out-of- season alcohol content has been increased by is added to top up the wine in the bottle brownish colour, losing its freshness.

82 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 Sommelier INDIA 83 Oxidised wines are also called maderised or sherrified. PHENOLICS Phenolics in wine that SUBSCRIBE TO mostly come from the pulp, skin, seeds and stems of grapes are molecules that help preserve wine by absorbing oxygen. They are also responsible for structure, colour and ageing potential in red wines. Two key phenolics found in wine are tannin and anthocyanin.

PHYLLOXERA Tiny aphids (root lice) Nittardi Vineyards Courtesy Photo: that attack vitis vinifera roots. The disease was widespread in both Europe Amarone wines after their fermentation, for Earth, “terre”. and California during the late 19th activating a second fermentation, which century, and returned to California in the imparts a sweet, raisiny character into TROCKEN The German word for “dry” 1980s. There is no known cure at this the young wine while increasing alcohol and indicates dry wine. time. Vinifera vines are instead grafted content. on to native American rootstocks. TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE RISERVA Specific to Italian wine regions, Wines made from grapes picked after this term acknowledges wines with both they are fully infected with noble rot. ...and get a bottle of QMP – QUALITÄTSWEIN MIT PRÄDIKAT German for a ‘quality higher alcohol levels and longer ageing The water has dried leaving behind wine with distinction’, a classification than the minimums stipulated by the more concentration. The wine produced based on the level of ripeness of the appellation laws. is golden and honeyed, high in alcohol grapes. The grapes must be picked as and lusciously sweet. The best quality specified by law and the wines cannot SAIGNÉE Meaning “bleeding” in French, is balanced by acidity and thus avoids have any added sugar. The six levels involves making rosé as a by-product of being cloyingly sweet. of QmP wines, starting with the driest red wine fermentation, where a portion La Réserve and harvested earliest, are Kabinett, of the pink juice from the grape must is UNION DES GRANDS CRUS DE Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, removed at an early stage, and fermented BORDEAUX An organisation comprising separately to produce rosé. 134 estates located in exalted Bordeaux from Grover Zampa Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. appellations of the Gironde like Barsac, QUALITÄTSWEIN German for “quality SALMANAZAR An oversized bottle Graves, Médoc, Pessac-Léognan, wine.” A broad category encompassing holding nine litres, the equivalent of 12 Pomerol, Sauternes and Saint Emilion. the majority of . It includes regular bottles. QmP and QbA wines. In Austria, it is VARIETAL A varietal is a wine named TERM ISSUES PRICE the category between Landwein and STRUCTURE The interaction of for the dominant grape variety although Prädikatswein. elements such as acid, tannin, glycerin, other grape varieties may also be present One year 4 `1,000 alcohol and body as it relates to a wine’s in the wine. The practice of moving wine texture and mouthfeel. Usually preceded Two years 8 `2,000 by hose from one to another, by a modifier, as in “firm structure” or VINTAGE The year the grapes were leaving sediment behind, for the purpose “lacking in structure”. grown and harvested of aeration or clarification. Three years 12 `3,000 SUR LIE (French for “on the lees”) Wines VITIS VINIFERA Classic European plus bottle of wine REMUAGE In sparkling wine production, aged sur lie are kept in contact with the winemaking species of grape. Examples a tedious process where each individual dead yeast cells and are not racked or include cabernet sauvignon and bottle is rotated and tilted very slightly otherwise filtered. This is mainly done chardonnay. There are many other over time so that the yeast is loosened for whites, to enrich them (it is a normal species of grapes such as Vitis Labrusca, and settles into the neck of the bottle. part of fermenting red wine, and so is not a North American grape species. noted). RIBOLLA GIALLA (ree-bohl-lah jah- VOLATILE ACIDITY Describes an lah) Ancient white variety from northern TANNINS Compounds that contribute excessive and undesirable amount of Italy, bordering Slovenia. Rarely seen to a wine’s structure, mouthfeel, and acidity, which gives a wine a slightly sour, HOW TO SUBSCRIBE elsewhere, wines are typically light in astringency. Tannins in wine are derived vinegary edge. At very low levels (0.1%), body and offer fruity, floral aromas, as from grape skins, seeds, and stems. The it is largely undetectable. At higher levels Visit: www.sommelierindia.com well as bright acidity. more contact the juice has with these it is considered a major defect. elements, the more tannic the wine. Or send your subscription form with a RIPASSO A traditional style in Italy’s YEAST Micro-organisms that produce cheque or demand draft to: TERROIR The overall environment the enzymes which convert sugar to Veneto region, where fresh, young Sommelier India Valpolicella wine is placed in contact with within which a given grape variety alcohol. Yeast is necessary for the the used lees and unpressed skins of grows. Derived from the French word fermentation of grape juice into wine. C-320, Defence Colony New Delhi - 110024 84 Sommelier INDIA OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 ����e��e���n�����������297� 210 ������e������������ 18 June 2019 19:30:07