Dassault MIRAMIRAMIRAMIRAGEGEGEGE By Craig Clarkstone Parkjet
Construction Guide Versions Mirage III, Kfir and V © 2017 Craig Clarkstone. All rights reseved IIIC Mirage History The Dassault Mirage III is a family of single-seat, single-engine, fighter aircraft produced by Dassault Aviation for the French Air Force and widely exported. Prominent operators included Argentina, Australia, South Africa, Pakistan and Israel, as well as a number of non-aligned nations.[1] Though an older design, the second-generation fighter is a fairly maneuverable aircraft and an effective opponent in close-range dogfighting.[2] In French service it was armed with air-to-ground ordnance or R.550 Magic air-to-air missiles.[1] The versatility of the design enabled production of trainer, reconnaissance and ground-attack versions, as well as the Dassault Mirage 5, Dassault Mirage IIIV and Atlas Cheetah variants.[3] IIIE A Mirage III was the first Western European combat aircraft to exceed Mach 2 in horizontal flight
Designers Notes I had never realised just how many variations of the Mirage there were until I started this project. I started by simply typing in ‘Mirage’ into Google until I found the design that IIIR represented the Mirage I had in my mind. Having studied the mirage family of aircraft, I think that it would be fun to design various parts of the family of mirage planes, by designing a common fuselage shape, and have a selection of noses, tails, exhaust, canards and wing variations to be able to build the mirage you prefer. IIIS The Mirage 2000 is slightly different, so I’ll prepare a separate build guide Canard
Kfir If you enjoy this design please help me to fund my next project and send a donation for $10 to Paypal address :-
Canard [email protected]
Thank you! and happy flying.
Craig :) MVM Canard
© 2017 Craig Clarkstone. All rights reserved. The design is free for non-commercial use only.
Page 1 Construction Before you start. Adhesives > For the majority of construction : - UHU Creativ for Styrofoam (also called UHU POR) - 3M 77 Spray adhesive. >For wing spars and motor mounts : - Epoxy. (5 and 15mins cure times are the most convenient) micro-baloons can be added to reduce weight. > For servo’s / and quick grab : - Hot melt glue gun - Caution if the glue gets too hot it will melt foam - test first!
Tapes > For holding parts tightly together whilst glue sets - Low tack masking tapes > For leading edges, hinges, general strengthening - 3M Gift tape (Purple - not green one!) - I prefer lightweight plastic hinges. > For decals - Coloured parcel tapes (strips taped to waxed paper & cut out)
Cutting parts 1. Print the plans, 2. Cut around each part using scissors - allow a border of approx (1/4”) 6mm 3. Use either 3M spray mount or a very light coat of 3M 77 to the back of the parts and stick in an economical layout on the Depron foam. 4. Using a safety rule and craft knife over a cutting mat - important! use a fresh blade otherwise it will drag and spoil the foam. (I find the stanley knife perfect) make the straight edge cuts, then the curved parts freehand. 5. Once the parts are cut-out, keep the template stuck to the part until just before needed to help identify the parts. 6. After use, I find it helpful to keep all the used tempates in case replacement parts need making. (the glue eventually dries and they don’t stick together!)
IMPORTANT Wherever the plans call for marking guidelines onto the depron, please ensure that you do otherwise it can cause problems later on. I suggest you use a Sharpie Fineliner to transfer the lines.
Glueing parts together. 1. Ensure a really good fit - this will reduce the amount of adhesive used. The Bar Sander is a great tool for this. 2. Follow the adhesive instructions closely. 3. Use ordinary steel head pins to help keep the parts located whilst epoxy sets. 4. Use objects as weights such as paperweights to apply pressure whilst adhesive sets. 5. Use masking tape to apply pressure whilst adhesive sets. Also use masking tape to along the slots for the wing spars whilst gluing the carbon rod spars into the wings. This prevents the glue protruding and gives a nice finish. Glue bulkhead 1 into the forward fuselage belly panel as shown
Using the RX shelf as a guide, gently curve the forward fuselage sides using the technique below.
Glue together using UHU por
Hand or smooth object. depron
desk desk
1. Place over edge of desk. 2. Whilst still pressing down, Drag the depron firmly press down on the depron over the edge of the desk, pulling down as you go. 75mm (3”) from the edge of the desk. This motion will put a nice curl in the depron.
Page 4 Page 1 Glue together four corner reinforcement strips into two 12x12mm strips. Position on the belly panel 6mm away from the outer edge.
6mm
Glue together both parts to create the forward fuselage assembly
Page 5 Page 1 Choose whether you want a single TWIN COCKPIT or twin cockpit. For the twin cockpit, construct as below. Canopy support pieces
Bridge piece
SINGLE COCKPIT The Single cockpit has the magnet piece added.
Canopy support pieces Magnet piece Bridge piece
Page 6 Page 1 Glue the carbon spar into the slot EDF using masking tape top and bottom. Set the wing on a flat surface with heavy books on top to ensure it is bonded flat.
PUSHER
Page 7 Page 1 Mark the fuselage lines onto the wing according to the plans, and temporarily tape the support jigs in place with masking tape.
Dry fit to check that the lower fuselage sides follow the marked line and maintain the angle of the jigs. x
Page 8 Page 1 When 6mm away from its resting position, apply 5min epoxy to the wing and slide the lower fuselage side pieces over. Secure in place with tape until the glue is set.
DO NOT GLUE, but use the rear fuselage belly panel as an x additional guide.
Carefully trim away the lower Trim away and replace after servo installation fuselage sides and wing around the servos to allow the servos to sit flush with the upper side of the wing panel. Glue the servos in position and then using UHU por, glue in a piece of depron to fill the hole.
Page 9 Page 1 PUSHER INSTALLATION ONLY. PUSHER Glue together the 2x pusher mount pieces together using UHU por, then glue it into the fuselage.
Glue the motor stick mount into the motor mount using hot melt glue.
Hobbyking - SKU:OR004-00602
Cut a hole in the wing panel and PUSHER hot glue the ESC in place so that air can pass on both sides (see image at bottom). Run the battery cables and servo wires (+extensions) forward.
Page 10 Page 1 Adjust the EDF mount bulkheads to EDF suit your particular EDF size and shape (maintaining the central axis)
Using hot melt glue or silicone sealant (for noise dampening), glue the front and rear EDF mount bulkheads to the EDF unit so that they align with the slots in the fuselage
EDF Glue the EDF bulkeads in place using UHU por.
Page 11 Page 1 EDF Trim out a generous hole around EDF your ESC. Glue two coffee stirrers to the depron as shown, then glue your esc in the middle of the hole so that air can flow around it.
Wire your EDF to your ESC , trimming away the bottom of your EDF bulkheads to let the cables through
BOTH Glue the two pairs of rear fuselage lower corner reinforcers in place as shown.
Page 12 Page 1 The air intake on the mirage are a EDF little small for 70mm EDF, so I have (reluctantly) cut cheater holes in the belly. These will allow air to circulate around the ESC and will maximise the efficiency of your EDF Unit.
The pusher version doesn’t need any cheater holes. Glue in place. PUSHER
Page 13 Page 1 Look carefully where the mating BOTH surfaces meet, then apply UHU por to all joining surfaces. Before joining, thread the Servo wires to the RX and Battery-ESC cables through to the under-cockpit area.
Carefully shape the two fuselage side corner reinforcers until a good BOTH and accurate shape is achieved. Glue the longest sanded edge to the fuselage as shown.
Page 14 Page 1 Construct the thrust tube from thin EDFBOTH but stiff plastic sheet, joining with nylon reinforced tape. Check for a snug fit, dry-fitting the thrust tube and rear bulkhead.
Glue the rear bulkhead and thrust tube in place using UHU Por using BOTH Hot melt to connect the tube to the EDF,
For the Pusher version, trim away a 12mm wide middle section, splitting it into two pieces to fit around the motor mount panel.
Page 15 Page 1 BOTHEDF Glue the Lower fuselage top in place as shown.
PUSHER
Page 16 Page 1 Glue the Upper fuselage top in BOTH place as shown.
Glue the upper fuselage sides in BOTH place as shown.
Page 17 Page 1 Using the jigs, sand the fuselage to BOTH shape, uncluding under the wing. Mask of the wing area using masking tape to protect the wing from sandpaper catching on it.
Choose the correct nose option and glue the Nosecone alignment jig in BOTH place followed by the nosecone.
Sand the nosecone to the correct shape and continue to sand the forward fueslage area until the correct shape is achieved.
Page 18 Page 1 Cover the top of the fuselage with masking tape, then Mark on the fuselage the correct guidelines for your canopy choice - either single or twin cockpit.
DRY FIT the turtledeck outer pieces as shown gently curving them if necessary.
Page 19 Page 1 Whilst the outer turtledeck sides are in the correct orientation, glue the middle turtledeck sides to them as shown.
Glue the inner turtledeck sides to the two assemblies as shown.
Page 20 Page 1 Glue the turtledeck top to the turtledeck assemblies.
Glue the turtledeck shaper piece to the assembly as shown.
Page 21 Page 1 Remove the turtledeck and the masking tape, then sand the turtledeck to shape before gluing to the assembly.
The single canopy turtledeck is much longer and requires careful handling.
Page 22 Page 1 Glue together the depron pieces that make up the canopy and sand to shape.
Test fit to the fuselage - Build a tongue using a piece of scrap depron and 3mm 1. press magnet into depron to impress shape. 2. Dig out a recess for the magnet 3. Apply glue into recess and using a sharp knife. push magnet into it. liteply at the front of the canopy.
Attach the magnets to the magnet panel (or as per image above if you are building the twin cockpit version) 4. Whilst still wet, lay masking tape over the area. 5. When fully cured, remove tape 6. When correctly aligned, press adjoining and put adjoining magnet on top depron onto the sticking up magnet to impress shape. Epoxy the magnets to rear of the canopy so that the canopy is removable but holds IMPORTANT. Before glueing the upper magnet in, firmly in place when mounted. check that the magnet is the right way around! 7. Repeat steps 2-4 for the upper part.
Page 23 Page 1 Fit the forward canopy piece. With the canopy in place, further shape Forward canopy piece the fuselage to get a smooth and flowing shape.
Using the air intake Jigs as a guide, BOTH EDF AND PUSHER carefully shape the air intake by using a hot air gun.
Page 24 Page 1 Glue and wrap some sandpaper Trim Away EDF around a dowel rod. Mark the 3mm depron air intake position using a pencil and sand away Trim Away the inside edges until a smooth internal shape is achieved - This will help the EDF unit to be as effective as possible.
Trim Away
Shape the 3mm Depron Shock-cone piece to resemble a cone, and stick to the side fuselage.
Glue the Air intake in place as shown.
Sand the fuselage smooth so that the transition between the air intake and fuselage is seamless.
EDF
Page 25 Page 1 PUSHER VERSION ONLY.
Stick the splitter triangle in place as shown. (This applies to all versions of the Mirage - not just the ‘E’ version shown here)
PUSHER
MIRAGE IIIE Stick the air intake inner face onto the splitter piece as shown.
PUSHER MIRAGE IIIE
Page 26 Page 1 Shape the shock cone to resemble a cone and glue to the air intake inner face as shown
PUSHER MIRAGE IIIE
The pusher 3mm outer air intake isn’t quite as deep as the EDF version due to the addition of the splitter/inner air intake face. Trim excess material away. Glue to the fuselage.
PUSHER MIRAGE IIIE
Page 27 Page 1 Using the exhaust Jigs, Curve the Join inner 3mm exhaust around them, Masking tape MIRAGE IIIC taping masking tape along the inside of the join to help hold it in place.
Glue the two ends together.
Jigs
With the exhaust Jigs in place, wrap the outer exhaust piece MIRAGE IIIC around the inner exhaust piece, with the join at the opposite side.
Glue together. Once set, remove inner exhaust joint the jigs and masking tape
Outer exhaust joint
Page 28 Page 1 Glue the exhaust onto the MIRAGE IIIC assembly
BOTH
The Mirage IIIE has a slightly different shaped exhaust and MIRAGE IIIE vertical stabiliser but the method remains the same.
chute pod Note the chute pod is assembled using two side pieces sanded to shape.
BOTH
Page 29 Page 1 The Kfir has a very short exhaust, very far forward of the other mirages. PUSHER The EDF version is quite scale, but the pusher version has a longer exhaust to hide the motor due to the vertical stabiliser overhanging at the back of the aircraft.
KFIR
EDF
KFIR
Page 30 Page 1 Glue the vertical stabiliser in place using epoxy
Glue the pieces of the rocket pod together and sand to shape.
Glue in place as shown.
Choose whether you want an EDF or pusher model and choose the correct base,
Page 31 Page 1 Congratulations your model is now complete!
Page 32 Page 1 Choose whether you want an EDF or pusher model and choose the correct base, Use Google images to help you find your favourite Mirage and to add scale details and paint schemes! there are so many to choose from!
Page 33 Page 1