Casas Cantabricas offers holidays in lovely lesser known regions of and Portugal, with an excellent choice of houses – from seaside cottages to country mansions – and of family-run hotels and pensions. There are numerous restaurants in this region, some simple and others more sophisticated, many family run. Most of these mentioned here are reasonably priced and all of them should by law offer a menu or Whichever property or hotel you choose, you will find yourself in plato del día which includes wine and , but in some establishments this is only at lunchtime when a beautiful and fascinating part of Iberia. Whichever region you the local workers have their . In general helpings are very generous so be careful not to order too go to, you’ll discover that it has its own history and character – much if ordering à la carta. In some places, especially the mesónes there are no written menus – someone and its own proud traditions. And among the most important of will normally rattle off a long list of what is available for primer plato or primero (first ) and these traditions are always those of eating and drinking: from segundo plato (second course). See the following section on typical dishes. farm to market, from to table, the production and You may wonder what the difference is between a mesón and a restaurante. A mesón is rather like the old English enjoyment of good is at the heart of local life. inn, serving food and drink to travellers –do not expect as much variety as in a restaurante – they normally offer good, honest, simple fare, served in the bar or in el comedor (dining room) if they have one. Cured hams, “¡Buen Provecho!”, our guide to restaurants and food, is based and morcillas will usually hang from hooks on beams and are offered as (snacks) for those too hungry to wait on our local knowledge, experience and love of good food. Its for a full meal. However, some places may call themselves a mesón but offer a full restaurant menu – all rather aim is to serve as a guide to the food and drink of the regions confusing! where our holidays are based; whether choosing where to eat out What sort of food might you expect to eat here’ Cantabrian is based on good local produce –haricot or what to cook “a la casa”, we’re sure you’ll find it helpful. In it and other pulses, cabbages, greens, products – , morcilla, panceta and jamón- tradiitionally from la you’ll find a useful vocabulary section, several recipes for local matanza (killing of the family pig), lechazo (milk fed baby lamb), cabrito (kid) and all sorts of fish and seafood specialities and information on shopping and markets (many with local names). Milk is an important ingredient, not only for the good local cheeses, but in the most common puddings you will find here – arroz con leche ( pudding), leche frita (fried milk) and flan (caramel For each region we offer a personal selection of local restaurants. custard). The is tasty and hearty and emphasis is placed greatly on the quality of the ingredients. We include all sorts of places, from simple seafood tapas bar to In this part of Spain, particularly in the mesónes, the first course is often more interesting than the main course. elegant palacio dining room; all are included because they offer This is because of local demand – Spaniards in this area like their and fish fried or grilled and rate the quality good food of their locality. of the main ingredients as being more important than and other condiments. Attitudes are changing though Our restaurant selection does not claim to be definitive, but we and you will find some interesting main course dishes. hope you’ll find it a helpful introduction. If you find somewhere Whenever you ask a Spaniard round for a meal you need never worry about surprising him with some new dish – you particularly like that we don’t mention, please let us know – serve what he likes; make sure you choose the best ingredients and follow your recipe closely. Whatever you do we are always pleased to have your comments and suggestions. there will be some criticism – Spaniards like to discuss food.

© Casas Cantabricas 2013 A B C D E F G H I J K Asturias a Ve r 1 C o s t d e Costa de C Santander anta Galicia Western Coast bria Cantabria p.9 b 2 Los Locos Ajo Berrio Cóbreces Oyambre Santoña Pechón Restaurant Guide Santillana Solares Asturias Laredo Cantabria Euskadi San Vicente Cantabria 9 3 Arredondo Castro Galicia Navarra de la Barquera Urdiales Hints on eating out in Spain 36 León Burgos A S T U R I A S Treceño Cabezón dede llaa SaSSalal Eastern E Wine 36 CASTILLA Y LEON U 4 Arenas Saja-Besaya Villacarriedo Cantabria S Some typical dishes 37 K Picos de E A Euskadi, La Rioja,Navarra uro Cabuérniga D A few recipes from Spain 39 Salamanca pa Parque ca bri I Useful phrases in Spanish 41 5 Natural ordillera Canta Fuente Picos de Saya-Besaya C Dé Castilla y León Europa C o C 6 r Piasca A di S T I lle Y L L A ra L Cant E O 7 abrica N

Introduction Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Cantabria 1 East Cantabria: 0034 942 677306 Bar/Marisqueria Alfredo MAP REF: J3 Bar Los Espinos MAP REF: H2 A simple, popular, family run bar/restaurant. Good hearty Calle Santa Maria 2. In the port area. In side street almost at the end of the main street, opposite The Pasiego Country home-cooking – large portions! Very good value meñu del Although there is plenty of choice in Castro, this is the place Coviran supermarket. día with plenty of choice. to go for delicious raciones and tapas (fishy and otherwise). Tel: (0034) 942 621 362 San Vicente de Toranzo The array on the bar counter alone will tempt you in! Enjoy A friendly, little family run bar offering the typical raciones of Regules the port from their terrace if you can get a table. It can get the region, all freshly cooked. They will make you and your MAP REF: F4 Mesón El Cazador very busy. Reasonably priced. kids welcome. San Vicente de Toranzo – on the N623 between Puente La Casa del Puente MAP REF: G2 Viesgo and Ontañeda. Take CA256 from To Regules (8km). Islares A family run restaurant offering good home cooking at The hotel/restaurant is by the bridge over the Río Gándara. reasonable prices. Tel: (0034) 942 639 020 Casa Pereda MAP REF: I3 Aisia MAP REF: J3 Bar/Restaurante Cienfuegos La Casa del Puente is a delightful hotel with a restaurant Calle José Antonio, 45. On the main road through town, on Eastern Cantabria between Laredo and Just which is open to the public. They have a stylish dining room the right just up from the main crossroads if coming from the off the A8 coastal motorway at exit 156. Leave at this exit On the N623 between and Ontaneda. if and a large covered terrace by the river where you can drink direction of . and get onto the N634 heading west the hotel / restaurant is coming from the Santander direction it is on your right after and dine. Traditional regional/ – “pinchos de Tel: (0034) 942 622761 2km down this road on the right a large sawmill on the left. Parking in front of the restaurant. lechazo castellano” (baby lamb kebabs), their speciality. The small doorway looks just like any other small Spanish bar Tel: (0034) 942 862 212 If you are looking for genuine, home cooked, hearty, Good value menú del día on offer. but go in and you’re in for a surprise. Casa Pedrera is a very then this is the place. A very simple The perfect place for a stop off when travelling between spacious, elegant pub-restaurant with garden and play area bar/restaurant, very popular with locals, they certainly know Bilbao and the west. Right at the water’s edge with fantasic Rozas at the back. They have some standard ‘international’ dishes how to make food taste like food here. Many of the sea views – there’s no beach here but there is a small grass such as pizzas & burgers which are OK but the local fare is ingredients are from their own patch and farm. MAP REF: G2 park with steps down to the water and lifeguards in season Casa Tablas really very good – especially anything made with the local, Menú del día is available everyday, always with a good and plenty of car parking. The restaurant itself has great On the CA256 between Ramales de la Victoria and Regules. prize-winning Garmillas cheese or products from their own choice. Table wine is included, but they have Rioja too. not views y a have a good menu-del-dia for 15 euros Just a simple bar/restaurant, but very popular for its very ‘huerta’. They have barbecue & bands in the garden on Friday to be missed if you are staying in the Pasiego area. good home cooking of regional dishes. They make their own nights in the summer so it’s probably wise to book ahead. Limpias chorizos etc. Soto Güemes Casa La Piedra MAP REF: I3 Mesón Santo Domingo MAP REF: F3 Ramales de La Victoria Plaza del Cristo, Limpias Bar/Restaurante Luis MAP REF: H2 At the junction of N623 and El Soto/Villacarriedo road about Tel: (0034) 942 622 140 Restaurante Periguena MAP REF: G2 In the centre of the village opposite the church. 4 kms from Puente Viesgo. Limpias, just inland from the coast at Laredo, is very well Camping La Barguilla. Carretera de Arredondo. A very recent find for us and such a pleasant surprise! Bar A typical mesón with tapas in the bar and an adjoining restaur- known locally for its speciality “ chocolate con picatostes” – Tel: (0034) 942 646 586 Luis is a lovely old fashioned family run bar and you think ant serving regional food, both menú del día and à la carte. hot chocolate with a special fried pastry, popular at teatime. This family run restaurant is at campsite in Ramales de La that is it, but go through the curtain at the side and there Useful for those staying in Villasevil and Escobedo. Casa Piedra is just one of the places you can sample these, but Victoria, but don’t be put off by this. It has an excellent you will find a lovingly decorated restaurant in country style they also do a good value, hearty menú del día. Be warned – reputation for its traditional, yet creative cuisine, delicious, with a log fire in the winter. Simple, but excellent home they do get very busy in the summer, so for , go early. Vega de homemade puddings, highly rated. A good place for kids too cooking -fresh and tasty. During the week they do a menú Mesón el Fresno MAP REF: F3 as they have a terrace and a garden. Closed on Sunday del día only, but at the weekends they have an à la carte Bar/Restaurante Hermi MAP REF: I3 nights and on Mondays. menu – roast baby lamb one of their specialities and home- Vega de Villafufre. Calle Rucoba 15. made puddings a must to try. Good wines too and all very Tel: (0034) 942 634 211 Tel: (0034) 942 593 262 Ogarrio de reasonable indeed. We had a very good meal when we ate here and our clients A very popular choice for the local speciality “ chocolate con have enjoyed it too. Their specialities are carne à la parilla, Casa Tomas Ogarrio MAP REF: G2 Ajo picatostes” (see entry for Casa La Piedra). They also do a asados, puding de marisco, salmon and other fish. They do On CA 261 between Ramales de La Victoria and Arredondo. good value menú del día. Busy in the summer months so go early for lunch. tapas in the bar – callos, rinoñes etc. and also have a terrace Tel: (0034) 942 641 120 Restaurante Carlos 111 MAP REF: H2 for sitting out in the summer. Menú del día available. A simple, traditional, family run restaurant, serving hearty Av. Benedicto Ruiz 641, Ajo. On main street in town. Tel: (0034) 942 621 018 Western Cantabria: Iruz “mountain food”. Their speciality is “cocido montanes”. Good service and good value. Don’t be put off by the exterior of the front of the building – The Saja Valley Asador Ribeira del Pas MAP REF: F3 just go round the side and you will walk into a stylish montañesa style patio and bar with a very pretty garden, Bº La Iglesia, nº 12, Iruz. On the bend as you come out of Carmona Eastern coastal Cantabria dining room and dining booths made out of real wine Villasevil towards Iruz. barrels! Their specialities are paella, seafood platter and roast Restaurante El Puente MAP REF: D4 Tel: (0034) 942 597 082 Castro Urdiales baby lamb, but they do a menú del día too. Friendly and Carmona, can be reached from the Valle de Cabuerniga Housed in a magnificent seventeenth century tower this professional service, but go early or book in advance as they (Cabezon towards Reinosa and right at Valle) or from the MAP REF: J3 restaurant with a bar offers traditional dishes of the region Mesón El Segoviano do get very busy particularly at weekends and in the summer. Valle de Nansa (left at Puentenansa). The restaurant is the and specialises in roast baby lamb cooked in their special Castro Urdiales – Correria, 19 – underneath the arches on first on the right in the village. oven. Good wine list. Quite pricey. the left as you are coming to the harbour. MAP REF: H2 Mesón/Restaurante El Mazo Tel: (0034) 942 728 115 This is a long-established restaurant with a good old- Barrio El Mazo, Ajo. Just off the main Santander road as you A village inn / restaurant / posada restored to make a real fashioned feeling about it. There is a bar downstairs with a go towards Ajo. East Cantabria: El Alto Asón rural experience in comfort and style with many relics from very tempting array of tapas and upstairs is where the small Tel: (0034) 942 621 386 the past lovingly displayed. Aparicio, the owner, is a very restaurant is. Service is professional and not fussy, the food is La Gándara de Soba A family run mesón with a large dining room and bar and sweet young man who is willing to please in every way. He fresh, well presented and well cooked. Prices are fairly high, terrace with tables and a lovely garden with swings and a has a very pleasant dining room and serves traditional Bar/Restaurante Rufaco MAP REF: G2 but you will not go hungry here. They serve fish (the besugo slide and plenty of space. Great for kids. Good value, home Cantabrian dishes such as “cocido montañés” and has From Ramales de la Victoria take CA256 to La Gándara. The is excellent), game and meat dishes cooked in a traditional way. cooked traditional food. Raciónes as well as full . excellent meat as well as fish and a good choice of wines. restaurant is on the main road on your left in the centre of The house red was very good indeed and not overpriced. Simple, but very good quality and reasonably priced. the village.

10 Cantabria Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Cantabria 11 Cabezón de la Sal boquerones, croquetas and tigres (stuffed ). Combine Saja Bar Canal MAP REF: D3 a snack with your shopping – they stock all sorts of things On the main road going through Treceño, on the left Bodega Riojana MAP REF: E3 (amazing for a village shop) including an excellent selection Mesón Florida MAP REF: E4 opposite El Casino. of wine at very competitive prices. Closed on Mondays. Molino San Martin 2 – if coming from San Vicente de La In the village of Saja on the road going up towards Reinosa Just a small, cosy, family run bar (they have a fireplace in the Barquera direction drive past Cabezón and turn right before from the Cabueriga valley. colder months) with a dining room and a pleasant, enclosed Hotel Viar – you will then come to a small roundabout and Tel: (0034) 942 741 231 garden to one side for sitting out. They do menú del día, and the bodega is on the right of this. A typical old mesón with a lovely old beamed dining room. snacks and tapas. Simple, honest home cooking. Tel: (0034) 942 701 694 La Taberna de Placidin MAP REF: E3 Not a place to go if you are in a hurry as the lady who runs it We have mentioned Bodega Riojana in our food guide for Mazcuerras does everything – serves at the bar and at the tables and La Cocina many years. It has changed its location and is now housed in does the cooking! The food is well worth waiting for though, A bar with a small dining room attached where they serve a modern bar. You can still buy wine from the barrel here as but make sure you order your drinks first to keep you going Mesón La Cocina MAP REF: D3 simple, but tasty home cooking at reasonable prices. They well as bottled Rioja. Their range of tapas is much more while you wait. There is a limited menu, but a good selection In Roiz, on the road up to Bustriguado. state firmly that this is not a restaurant, but a taberna where extensive so it is the place to go if you feel like a “tapa” of traditional food of the region. The meat is excellent – all A family run mesón by the little river, they have a pleasant you can have an informal meal at almost any time of the day. based meal both at lunchtimes and in the evenings. home-killed – the baby lamb chops, the “T” bone steak and dining room and a terrace for sitting and eating out. Simple, The atmosphere is homely and relaxing. It is also a good the delicious wild boar with a chestnut pureé. The freshly cooked food, menú del día on offer, raciones in the place to take children as they have swings and a bolos pitch Bar Cabeza de Familia MAP REF: E3 cheesecake for pudding is very good too. bar, this establishment provides a relaxing atmosphere. by the stream and tables outside in the summer for eating At the back of El Ayuntamiento (Town hall) in the centre of out. Also a good place to buy wine at very good prices! Cabezón de la Sal, not far from the taxi rank. Caviedes Just a simple bar, but run by a very professional Pepe who Venta de Santa Lucía MAP REF: E3 West Cantabria: Valdáliga Bar Cofiño MAP REF: D3 will look after your needs. They offer raciónes and pinchos By the river in Santa Lucia south of Cabezón de la Sal, on In the centre of the village. and do a very good tortilla de patata. Good for a mid the road to Mazcuerras Treceño morning snack. This family-run bar/shop/restaurant is full of local This is a good choice for a special occasion. Pricier than many Prada A Tope MAP REF: D3 atmosphere and very welcoming. They serve simple, typical places, but the menu is more varied and imaginative, the Bar Avenida MAP REF: E3 Barrio el Ansar, 1 – just off the main road going through food of the region, freshly cooked and wholesome. At restaurant and bar stylish and they have a garden for sitting Cabezón de la Sal, at the start of Avenida Generalisimo Treceño, on the left if you are going towards San Vicente de lunchtime on weekdays they offer a menú del día. They also out. They have a menú del día as well as à la carte. Franco on the left. La Barquera, with a private car park. do fabada, but you usually have to order this in advance. In A good place to go for a cup of coffee, a mid-morning snack Tel: (0034) 942 705 100 the evenings they can prepare you a simple, but tasty supper. or a pre-lunch drink. Run by a very pleasant family who A recently opened restaurant / posada offering traditional They usually have more on offer at weekends. It is very particularly welcome children. They have pinchos (small Ibio dishes from El Bierzo region (part of León province). popular at weekday lunchtimes with the local workers so it is snacks) on the bar – tortilla, toasted sandwiches, pepitos Meson Ibio MAP REF: E3 Tastefully decorated and laid out, with a garden where you best to get there just before one or go after two. (little bocadillos), fried fish and other titbits as well as tapas. can eat out in the warmer months. The staff are particularly Ibio, near to Villanueva de la Peña, east of Cabezón de la Sal. They also do hamburgers and quick meals. They have tables attentive. Some of them come from Cacabelos, a small La Herrería outside in the spring and summer. Closed on Mondays. A pleasant village restaurant with bar and tables outside village in El Bierzo where Prada started off in 1972, where you can sit and eat in the summer. The owner has a convinced that the natural products and traditions of that Mesón El Tropezón MAP REF: D3 Bar / Restaurante El Paraiso MAP REF: E3 mini zoo here, ducks, geese and eagles are among his area needed to be promoted. They sell these products as well On the main road up to San Vicente del Monte in a square Cabezón de la Sal, at the start of the Avenida before Bar collection. Reasonably priced menú del día – fresh, well as wine from El Bierzo. Reasonably priced. Only open at with a chapel. cooked food. A la carte includes pimientos rellenos and Avenida. lunchtime during the week in the winter months. Tel: (0034) 942 705 089 merluza a la cazuela which are exceptionally good as are A cavernous old place which has recently been refurbished. their homemade puddings including mousse de limón and Recently taken over by its original owners Terio and Juani this Very good value including fresh orange juice, El Casino MAP REF: D3 mousse de caramelo. We have eaten here on many occasions has once again become our ‘home from home’. If you want coffee and toast. Raciónes available in the bar. The restaurant Treceño – on the main road through the village. and have always enjoyed the food and the friendly people. very good, unpretentious Spanish home cooking this is the is upstairs serving a good value menú del día and à la carte. A long-established family run bar-restaurant with its original place to go. Menú del día is available at lunchtimes and in flag stoned floor and traditional decor; it has become very the evenings (from 7.30) with good fish, meat and game Pizzería L’Archetto MAP REF: E3 popular recently for ‘T’ bone steak – chuletón (served by dishes and delicious homemade puddings. He also has an á la Cabezón de la Sal – Plaza de los Caídos at the beginning of Barcena Mayor weight) which comes sizzling to your table on an carte menu and caters for vegetarians – his stuffed aubergines the Avenida. earthenware hot plate. Other specialities are codornices, Meson Rio Argoza MAP REF: E4 are a delight when available. If you want a particular Run by an Italian man who makes his own pizzas to eat there mollejas, pimientos relleños and cebollas rellenas. They also vegetarian dish it’s wise to order in advance. He is closed Barrio El Puente 68. At the far end of the village by the or take away-they also deliver in Cabezón, this has justifiably do a menú del día at lunchtimes during the week. Opening Monday and Tuesday evenings except in August. Cheap. bridge and the river. become a very popular little restaurant. He also makes times: midday 1-4pm and evenings: 9 pm onwards. Closed lasagne and serves salad with the pizzas. Open evenings only Tel: (0034) 942 706 033 on Tuesdays, but not in August. but not on Tuesdays. This was the original restaurant in Barcena Mayor and still West Cantabria: remains a firm favourite. Serving traditional dishes of the El Palacio de Guevara MAP REF: D3 Ontoria region, their meat is particularly good. Servings are plentiful. Treceño – on the main road. The Picos de Europa Tel: (0034) 942 703 330 MAP REF: E4 Bar / Tienda Pepin MAP REF: E3 La Solana A magnificently restored ‘palacio’, this building now houses a Potes Near Cabezón de la Sal – from the railway station go over Barcena Mayor – in the middle of the village opposite the hotel and a restaurant-bar. Beautifully decorated and Casa Cayo MAP REF: C5 the railway line and go straight on to Ontoria until you see a church. furnished this is a place which you might choose for a special Potes, near the bridge in the centre of town. chapel on your left – Bar Pepin is on your right. Tel: (0034) 942 091 200 occasion, but surprisingly it is not expensive considering the This is an excellent bar/shop with a terrace, bolos pitch and Recently opened, this restaurant, housed in a typical montanes surroundings and the quality of the service. The food is very Prices are high in the Potes area and although this restaurant plenty of space around for kids to play. It is not a restaurant, building, offers traditional food of the region, specialising in attractively presented and there is an extensive wine list. You isn’t cheap, it is fairly reasonable. It is simple, but good and but they do serve good homemade raciónes at very cocido montanes and game dishes. They also do a menú del can always drop in at the bar for a drink and relax in the family run though the atmosphere has become more touristy reasonable prices – rabas, rinoñes, mollejas, callos, día with plenty of choice and serve raciones in the bar. comfy chairs in the entrada. The dining room is open at lately. It is popular so go early. Specialities are: Lechazo, lunchtimes and in the evenings (9 pm on). Book in advance callos, cocido and other typical dishes of the region. The at weekends. owner makes the house wine – very good for what it is. They also serve tapas in the bar.

12 Cantabria Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Cantabria 13 Los Camachos – Casa Cuba MAP REF: C5 Cahecho The fish is as fresh as you can get and they have an Just a simple place done out in pine with a few tables, but In a cobbled side street on the same side of the river as Casa interesting wine list covering all the regions of Spain. Middle with a terrace in the summer with wonderful views onto Cayo. Taberna Peña Sagra MAP REF: C5 price range. Closed on Sunday night and on Mondays. Playa Merón and the mountains. Maria del Pilar, the owner and the cook, offers a menú del día at lunchtimes – usually a This must be one of the most typical old bars in Potes, In the upper part of the village of Cahecho next to the newly Mesón Ocho MAP REF: E3 choice of three or four first courses and three or four main. always full of locals. Family run there is a genuine built “Apartamentos Peña Sagra”. Parking in car park for the , in the main square. She also has an à la carte menu, but best to order in advance atmosphere here, but do not expect luxury. They have a apartments. Tel: (0034) 942 720 195 – fresh fish and seafood, paella de marisco etc. Open simple dining room (all newly decorated) where they serve Tel: (0034) 942 730 182 A pleasant bar with a restaurant at the back, serving everyday all year round. Gets very busy at weekends and on simple, honest food. The menú del día is limited, but the A country mesón with a few tables, a balcony and a terrace traditional dishes of the region. They have both fish and fiesta days. food is fresh and tasty. Good value for money. with possibly the best views you will get in the Picos de meat dishes and a menú del día. In the summer months they Europa. Traditional mountain food. Good value menú del día. MAP REF: C5 will do a paella to order. Comillas Hosteria Peña Sagra It is open all year, everyday except Wednesdays. Ojedo (Cruce de Potes) -39585 Potes ( on the roundabout in Bar El Muelle MAP REF: D3 Ojedo before you reach Potes). San Vicente de la Barquera Dos Amantes, Pesagüero The harbour – Comillas. Tel: (0034) 942 730 792 Boga Boga MAP REF: D3 A simple bar with an outside terrace. Tapas, all seafood, are A family run hotel and bar/restaurant. The friendly owner, Mesón El Abejó San Vicente de la Barquera, in the main street. very good. Normally on offer are calamares en su tinta, The village of Dos Amantes is signposted off the Potes – Sagraria has eleven children, most of them helping her run rabas, sardinas, mejillones a la vinagreta or con limon, Palencia road, the CA184, a little way before Pesagüero. This is said to be one of the best restaurants in Cantabria. her business. Very popular with locals, there is a simple langostinos, gambas and marmitako in season. Only open at Drive to village and then you will see a sign for the Mesón Specialities are fish and seafood. We had an excellent meal dining room in the bar area and a smarter one ff this. They weekends out of season. Quite pricey. serve traditional food of the region. Hearty and plentiful. which is above the village. here – (beans with clams), rodaballo and callos del mar (like tripe, but fish). Helpings are very Reasonably priced. Tel: (0034) 617 757 934 MAP REF: D3 generous – one rodaballo was plenty for the two of us. It is Bar Filipinas This simple, unpretentious , but very special country expensive in Spanish terms and the atmosphere more touristy Comillas, at the crossroads in the centre of town across the restaurant is a must if you are spending any time in the Picos than many of the places mentioned on the list. way from Greifiss supermarket. Mieses de Europa. Just the spectacular view from its terrace will Go here if you want a good selection of tapas and raciónes – make your meal an enjoyable and memorable one. Brothers, Confitería Ramos MAP REF: D3 both fish and meat, available throughout the day and in the Parilla Santo Toribio MAP REF: C5 Fernando and Rafael, who will look after you very well, are In the main street on the left as you go towards Oviedo. evenings. They also have a menú del día. It does get busy in Mieses, on the other side of Potes on the road going up to passionate about good food and have the art of making food This is the place to go for a good continental , the summer and rather noisy too, but it is good fun if you Monasterio de Santo Toribio. taste like food – well cooked and delicious and lovingly chocolate and Churros, cakes, pinchos and ice cream. like observing people. This family-run restaurant serves local dishes of the region at presented ... from fresh salads using local produce, to their reasonable prices. is their speciality, but special paella to excellent homemade puddings. They have all Sidrería Parrilla ‘La Brasa’ MAP REF: D3 Bar Gravalosa MAP REF: D3 they have a barbecue – parilla, where they cook their chops, sorts of interesting dishes on their menú and everything is Cuesta Don Paco, San Vicente de la Barquera – up steps Comillas – in the main square. steaks, spare-ribs etc. Popular with locals, it is advisable to go very reasonably priced. You have to book in advance, but no behind Hostal La Paz in main square. We have only had drinks here, but a regular client of ours there early. They have tables outside for al fresco eating and problems if you phone – they speak English. Away from the more touristy restaurants on the main road, feels we should recommend it for its wide range of tasty depending where you are sitting inside, some wonderful raciónes. He says the quality is always good and the service mountain views this mesón, traditional in style, to provide an easy-going, Western coastal Cantabria informal atmosphere specializes in grilled meat, but also do superb and of all the cafés in the square it is always the busiest. cordero al horno and fish and . Their rice with Quo Vadis Pizzeria MAP REF: D3 Ruiloba is very good indeed. They also do tapas. They serve Tama menú del día both at lunchtime and in the evenings. They Comillas, on the road going out of town towards San Vicente de la Barquera. Casa Fofi MAP REF: C5 Meson La Cigoña MAP REF: E3 close on Wednesdays, but not during the summer. A good place to take children after a day on the beach. Reasonably Useful for those with children or for vegetarians who like Tama, on the road before you reach Potes. Ruiloba, in the main square. priced. pizza and . Run by a friendly Spanish man and his This is a simple, family-run bar/restaurant with about six A long-established restaurant, the upstairs part now a hotel. Italian wife. Apart from pizzas, they do a menú del día and tables in a pleasant dining room overlooking the river and In the square by the bolos pitch in Barrio Iglesia, Ruiloba, it Annua MAP REF: D3 have extended their à la carte menu and it makes a good offers more unusual dishes than many places around and is mountains. Good, home cooking – fresh and plentiful. Meñú Paseo de la Barquera, s/n – right at the end of the quay past venue for a romantic evening meal. They have a few tables pricier too. The menu is translated into English and a menú del día and à la carte. Tapas of jamón and cheese available in the Mirador Hotel. Parking outside the restaurant. outside on the pavement as well as the bar/restaurant. the bar. Reasonably priced for the quality. del día is available. Restaurant closes from 15th September Tel: (0034) 942 715 050 for approximately six weeks and is closed on Wednesdays Bar/Restaurante La Caracola MAP REF: D3 A very upmarket restaurant, which has quite justifiably been throughout the year. Playa de Comillas, right on the seafront by the car park, awarded a Michelin one star. Oscar Calleja, the , offers overlooking the beach. El Remedio MAP REF: E3 two exciting, innovative menus – Menú Gastrónomico and Tel: 942 720 741. El Hoyal MAP REF: C5 Barrio El Remedio, Ruiloba. Between Comillas and Sierra. Menú Experience (70€). They have an extensive wine list. In a fantastic position overlooking the estuary of San Vicente de This restaurant, run by a Basque, has a pretty dining room Pesaguero – on road to Palencia, about 10kms from Potes Turn left off CA131 after Casasola (tricky turning). Drive up to the Ermita del Remedio – the restaurant is next to it. la Barquera, this is a must for a special occasion. Even if you with sea views and an outside terrace (for drinks and raciónes Tel: (0034) 626 504 223 Parking in the grounds. can’t afford to splash out on a meal, it is a great place to go only). Menú del día (medium-priced) is served everyday One of our favourite restaurants in a lovely mountain setting, including weekends and the à la carte menu includes fish and Tel: (0034) 942 107 813 for a relaxing drink on the deck and feel as though you were run by the delightful Carmen and Oscar. It has a very at sea. meat dishes and sometimes game. A good venue both at pleasant but smallish dining room so either go there early or Opened in 2011, this stylish restaurant commands fantastic lunchtime and in the evenings. In off-season months the book beforehand. The food is imaginative and beautifully views of the coast, Comillas and the Picos. Right by the Gerra owner suggests you go after 2pm. as before that it is very presented and Carmen, the cook, certainly knows how to Ermita del Remedio where the annual fiesta is held on July popular with workers. combine ingredients to make tempting dishes. They have a 2nd, it has a covered porch and terrace and garden with Mesón El Tarayan MAP REF: D3 plenty of space for children to play, a bar and a small, but good range of starters, meat and fish dishes and some On coastal road between San Vicente de la Barquera and Bielva attractive dining room with stunning views looking out to excellent homemade puddings – try the cheese ice-cream! A Oyambre beach. sea. The short, but adequate menu offers innovative dishes MAP REF: C3 good selection of wines too. They also have a very good Tel: (0034) 942 746 081 Casa Cesar value menú del día. with a slight Italian influence using traditional ingredients. Bielva, a village off the road between Labarces and Puente Good sized portions will ensure you won’t go hungry here. Arrudo.

14 Cantabria Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Cantabria 15 This is a pleasant restaurant in the old village of Bielva in the Mesón Sopeñas MAP REF: E2 specialise in regional dishes. They also have a parrilla where Café Pombo MAP REF: F2 hills with a small covered terrace outside where you can sit On main road through village. they barbeque meat and a very good choice of wines. Very Plaza del Pombo. and eat in the summer. They serve typical dishes of the popular with locals and with those from further afield. A liitle Tel: (0034) 942 716 116 A very stylish café on a pleasant square behind the Paseo region, including lechazo and they also have fish on their tricky to find, but it is signposted. Marítimo. They serve an excellent value breakfast, have good menu. Quite pricey, but very good value menú del día. A simple village mesón serving regional food at good prices. pinchos and great Rioja at reasonable prices. Barcenaciones Cobreces Santander Hao Wok MAP REF: F2 C/Travesia Narciso Cuevas,4 Santander. Off Calle San Luaña 3 MAP REF: E2 Mesón el Pucheru MAP REF: E3 El Marinero MAP REF: F2 Barcenaciones, off the village square Fernando which is the main road which goes into Santander Cóbreces Beach. Santander, Calle Florida 15 – just up from Plaza de from Cuatro Caminos. It is near Plaza de La Cerveza. Open all year round, offering full meals and tapas, this is Tel: (0034) 942 816 009 Generalismo. Tel: (0034) 942 239 934 both a bar and a restaurant. Menú del día is available but This family run restaurant with a pleasant, relaxing atmosphere, Tel: (0034) 942 239 517 they also specialise in spit-roasted chicken that can be eaten offers simple, but well cooked tasty local dishes. They have a A family run Chinese restaurant a cut above the rest – not Recommended by one of our clients, this restaurant also the normal run of the mill chinese restaurant you would find on the terrace overlooking the beach. With chips and a salad barbecue, usually only operating at weekends. Paella is a appears in some of the Spanish good food guides. As the and whatever else you might fancy this is a good place to speciality here, but it must be ordered in advance. They will in Spain. Instead refreshingly different – modernist style in name suggests, they serve wonderful seafood and fish and decor and furniture. The staff are very helpful and attentive take children to and nobody worries about you being in a also do food for you to take away. Menú del día is exception - also have excellent puddings. Pricey. Closed on Monday swimsuit. They also do chicken and chips to take away and ally good value – always tasty and plenty of variety. This is and the food very good – attractively presented and tasty. evenings, Sundays, the first fortnights of February and The duck with wild mushrooms was delicious. The menu paella, but you have to order this in advance. available both at lunchtime and in the evenings, but not on September. Saturdays and Sundays when there is a special menu on offer. includes a good selection of starters, dim sum and main courses as well as some Japanese dishes. Fairly priced for the Mesón Alfonso MAP REF: E2 Las Peñucas MAP REF: F2 quality. Cóbreces, on the coastal road. San Pedro de Rudaguera Barrio Pesquero, Santander. Tel: (0034) 942 725 130 La Ermita 1826 MAP REF: E3 If you do happen to go to Santander and enjoy fish and Las Hijas de Florencio MAP REF: F2 This serves typical dishes of the region and specialises in seafood, it is definitely worth paying the Barrio Pesquero a San Pedro de Rudaguera, near Lloredo, turning off road Calle General Mola – between Plaza Cuadro and Plaza grilled fish and meat. The restaurant is upstairs, nicely visit. This is off Calle Marques de la Hermida – it is well sign between Novales and Puente San Miguel. Pombo decorated and with atmosphere. There is also a sitting out posted. There are several restaurants here, all serving similar Tel: (0034) 942 726 011 Not a restaurant, but a great bar for pinchos and tapas. Very area with a barbecue, which is where most people go in the dishes. Las Peñucas is the one we know, it gets very popular stylish in the old fashioned way – high ceilings, marble bar A beautifully restored hostal with a bar and a restaurant in a summer. Menú del día. in the summer, so do go early. Specialities are paella (cooked counters etc. and the pinchos are excellent – all of the best quiet village by the River Saja. Their specialities include outside), parrillada de pescado, sopa de pescado and all kinds ingredients used. Not cheap, but worth it for the quality. Novales blandada de bonito, pate de merluza, pimientos rellenos, of seafood and fish. It is by no means luxurious, but the food escalopines rellenas de setas y queso (escalopes stuffed with is genuine and good and the atmosphere is cheerful and Mesón Rampalay MAP REF: F2 MAP REF: E3 Bar la Parientuca mushrooms and cheese), rape a la crema de necora (angler friendly. Calle Daiíz y Velarde, 9 Santander. Just off Plaza Pombo. Novales, opposite the Ayuntamiento. fish in a ), merluza ‘Ermita’ and homemade Tel: (0034) 942 313367 A simple village restaurant with tasty home cooking. Good puddings – tarta de queso and tarta de chocolate among El Vivero MAP REF: F2 A long established bar with the most amazing selection of for a family meal. Menú del día. More variety at the them. It has become a popular venue so booking in advance Barrio Pesquero, Santander. pinchos and tapas, so attractively presented there can’t be weekends, especially on Sundays. Reasonable. at weekends is advisable. they have another restaurant in This is just opposite Las Peñucas. It looks more sophisticated anyone who wouldn’t be tempted to eat one. They are Puente San Miguel. than the other restaurants around, but despite this, the prices imaginative and exciting and when we were there early Restaurante La Ceña MAP REF: E3 are about the same and the food is very good. As with Las evening more and more kept coming out of the kitchen. Novales, turn right when you see the sign for La Ceña in Peñucas – go early. Prices are reasonable considering the quality. A place not to centre of village just after the Ayuntamiento – it’s down the be missed – very professional. lane on the right going towards Cigüenza. Restaurante Amarantos MAP REF: F2 Bodega Cigaleña MAP REF: F2 Tel: (0034) 942 725 095 Calle Quintana 4, Suances on your left on your way into Santander, Calle Daioz y Velarde – in a few streets from the Suances from Tagle. Puente Arce In a very pleasant spot, with a good sized covered terrace for seafront Paseo de Pereda. Tel: (0034) 942 810 377 al fresco eating, a rough grass garden with lemon trees and This is otherwise known as ‘El Museo de Vino’ (the Wine El Redoble MAP REF: F3 Museum) as the proprietor has been collecting old and plenty of room around for children to play safely. It is good A pleasant restaurant with tables on the pavement for eating On the N611 between Santander and Torrelavega – it is on unusual wines for over forty years and bottles of all types line for tapas at lunchtime or in the evenings. They also serve out. Goyo the owner specialises in paella de marisco, the road going through the village. soups, dishes, steaks etc, but the owner prides himself pescados à la plancha, parrillada de pescados and chipirones the walls and ceilings. It is well worth the visit if only for a Tel: (0034) 942 575 852 on the fish dishes. The fish is fresh, well cooked and encebollados (baby cooked with onions) and chipirones blanco or a tinto. Apart from the bar there is a small attractively presented. There is also a plato del día and a en su tinta (squid in its own ink). All meals are nicely cooked, restaurant area with a wonderful food cabinet displaying the A real find this. The restaurant doesn’t look much from the menu especial at the weekends. It is closed on Mondays, but served and presented. They are open everyday in the most tempting produce. Prices didn’t seem outrageous, but outside, but once you are in you will find a pleasant bar and a not in the summer months. Some credit cards accepted. summer months. Expensive. definitely not cheap so it would have to be for a special smart dining room. It is extremely popular and quite justifiably occasion. so. The cooking is Basque based, refreshingly imaginative, Orena El Caserio MAP REF: F2 beautifully cooked and presented, good friendly service and Situated near the lighthouse and Playa de Los Locos in Restaurante Rochí MAP REF: F2 honestly priced. All the dishes were interesting, but the pan El Sitio Del Valle MAP REF: E2 Suances, this old time favourite is the place to go for a Calle Florida 15 – in a street behind the area of the Town fried whole duck’s liver with an apple based sauce was exquisite. Highly recommended. For simpler fare the bar also Barrio Perelada – Oreña – signposted off main road. special meal. Fish and seafood their speciality, but they also hall “el Ayuntamiento”. serves raciónes. Advisable to book or get there early. Tel: (0034) 942 716 204 do meat dishes. Tel: (0034) 942 239 825 This beautifully decorated restaurant is a very popular venue A select little restaurant run by Raul and Ana, tucked away in MAP REF: F2 Mesón Casa Gerardo for menú del día at lunchtimes. It gets absolutely packed so a pretty corner of Oreña. They have lovingly restored an old In a country spot off the road between Suances and Tagle at farmhouse into a small hotel with dining room and garden go there early. The reason for its popularity is the very wide Gran Duque MAP REF: E2 !.5 kms from Suances. Signposted off road. GPS 4º 03’ 39W choice you are offered, the huge portions and the very for sitting out in the summer. They have quite an extensive 43º 25’ 14”N Jesus Otero No 7 Bajo. Near the main car park in town. menu featuring local dishes – quite pricey, but several of our reasonable price. They have an à la carte menu too. (0034) 942 810038 Tel: (0034) 942 840 386 clients have strongly recommended it. A typical country mesón which was opened by its present Not cheap but a good place to try if you fancy a bit of a owner in 1993. Using excellent local ingredients, they treat. Cantabrian cuisine with a mixture of modern and

16 Cantabria Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Cantabria 17 traditional influences, this restaurant has a good reputation locally. They have a wide range of fish, seafood and meat West Cantabria: dishes and a good wine list. Perhaps try the menú de The Nansa Valley degustación (set tasting menu for two people), six dishes and a good bottle of wine with no tiresome decisions to be made! Celucos MAP REF: E2 Restaurante Hotel Altamira Restaurante Andrés MAP REF: C3 On the main road near the crossroads. Celucos-turn right before Celis off the road up to Puentenansa. Tel: (0034) 942 818 025 Tel: (0034) 942 727 553 One of Santillana´s more established restaurants and certainly A little tricky to find but locals will help you, this is a family one of the largest with 300 seats, here you will find a mix of run restaurant with a small bar serving tasty simple food at traditional and modern, from cocido montañes to octopus very reasonable prices. It gets very popular at lunchtimes at with seaweed and asparagus or sea urchins gratinados. Apart the weekends so it is a good idea to get there earlier than the from the main restaurant there is a bar with a garden terrace Spaniards do. Celucos is a pretty little village and safe for where you can order platos combinados (chips with every - children to run around. thing), the tourist menu or raciones (small portions / snacks).

Los Blasones MAP REF: E2 La Laguna In the old part of town on the right as you enter from the Restaurante MAP REF: D5 crossroads. On the CA-281 from Puentenansa towards Piedrasluengas, a Tel: (0034) 942 818 070 little further up from . Traditional food with a decidedly Cantabrian flavour, Tel: (0034) 942 729 021 specialities include solomillo al queso de (fillet steak Just a simple old fashioned restaurant and bar serving good, with cheese from the Cantabrian Picos) and pastel de puerros honest, home-cooked food using excellent local ingredients y gambas (a type of leek quiche with prawns). They also at reasonable prices. You might like to combine a trip to the pride themselves on their home made puddings. There is a museum at Tudanca with a meal here or stop off on this menú del día as well as á la carte. There is parking for clients alternative route to or from Potes. There is another restaurant and disabled facilities. across the way called Casa Enrique which serves similar food La Villa MAP REF: E2 and is also a bakery – great bread! Plaza de Gandara just up from the tourist info in the town center. Camijanes Tel: (0034) 942 818 364 Casa Gloria MAP REF: C3 Recommended by one of our favourite hotels in the town, On the S223 between Pesués and Bielva. this restaurant has a good reputation for home cooked Tel: (0034) 942 727 429 Cantabrian dishes, good portions and very reasonable prices given the location. Specialities include the salads, the cocido Don’t be put off by external appearances – a brick bungalow montañes and their home made puddings. with the restaurant housed below. The food is another story! A simple dining room with a covered sitting out area at the back with lovely views of the valley. Roast baby lamb or goat Trasvia is their speciality – if you get there early enough it is usually available, but to be extra sure, it is best to order a day or two Mirador de Trasvia MAP REF: D2 before. They also have a very good value menú del día and A family run restaurant serving tasty regional food including have an à la carte menu and an excellent choice of wines. a good value menú del día, it has a wonderful view of the Gets very busy. Ría de Oyambre. Celis Arroyo Casa Jandro MAP REF: C4 On the S223 between Pesues and Puentenansa. It is at the Mesón La Santuca MAP REF: E2 entrance to the village on your left. Car park at the side. Signposted off the new Santillana del Mar by-pass between Tel: (0034) 942 727 690 Oreña and Suances. A real surprise of a restaurant to find in a simple, farming Tel: (0034) 942 840 287 village. With an attractive dining room and attentive service, In the “hidden” hamlet of Arroyo near the sea, Mesón La they serve mainly traditional dishes with a special touch. You Santuca is a cheerful and popular family run bar/restaurant choose from two menus – one a three course, the other, a serving traditional regional food. Abundant portions! Menú two course, both with plenty of choice. Water and bread are del día and à la carte and raciónes. Good place to take kids – included, but not wine. They open every lunchtime, but only plenty of space to run around. do dinners at weekends except in August when they open every evening. reasonably priced for the quality and presentation of the food.

18 Cantabria Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide 19 Best recent years for Rioja be patient –vegetarianism really has not taken off in this part of Spain yet. A vegetarian friend of ours 2001, 2004, 2008, 2009, 2010 and 2011. Some typical dishes Hints on eating says she can often get a good meal by saying she Hard on the heels of Rioja, are the excellent full Starters is on a special diet which does not include meat or bodied reds of Ribera del Duero (voted best wine Sopa de fideos - chicken fish. region of the year 2012) (most recent best year Sopa de pescado - fish soup out in Spain 2010) and they too are categorized. Your pocket Sopa de marisco - seafood soup Eating Times Children might not be able to stretch to the supposedly” Children too may have difficulty in finding best” wine in Spain “Vega Sicilia”, but there is Cocido montañés - the local bean based with Spaniards here mainly eat out at lunchtime so this something that suits their tastes, but there are plenty of choice out there - names such as Protos, greens and sausages is when the food is prepared, especially in the nearly always chips and it is worth asking for Prado Rey and Pesquera will be on all the worthy Lentejas - lentils - usually cooked with chorizo (a simpler establishments. Although people do eat out meatballs and the like. wine lists, but if you are lucky to come across a spicy sausage) morcilla (like black pudding) and in the evenings you will probably be offered a humbler (pricewise) but very drinkable Fuentenarro tocino (salt pork) more varied menu at midday. Some places have In general here people try their best to – try it! Alubias con chorizo - a haricot bean based stew more on offer at the weekends, on feast days and please: ¡Buen Provecho! These two great wine growing regions apart, up Alubias viudas - a haricot bean based stew, but in the summer. Eating times: midday 1.00-3.30; without any of the normal sausages evening: 8/8.30-10.30 (times vary depending on and coming wines are being produced in many dif- Garbanzos - a chick pea stew restaurant). ferent areas of Spain, notably El Bierzo (Leon Wine province), Navarra, Toro, Extremadura, La Mancha Patatas con carne or ragut - a stew with more Do not expect full meals at times other than these, There has been a revolution in the wine world in and Penedes. All very drinkable and all very exciting! potatoes than meat but if you would like to eat at say six in the Spain over the last decade and now, not only does Menestra de verduras - a mixture of boiled and evening then choose a bar offering “platos Spain have the greatest extension of vineyards in White wines fried , sometimes with some cured ham combinados” – a set main course – often steak, Europe, it is also, with the latest technology, a great For lively and refreshing white wines “vino added egg and chips or chicken and chips and salad. variety of grapes and super fast fermentation meth- verdejo” from the Rueda wine growing region in Fabada - Asturian bean stew with sausages ods, one of the top producers of fine wine in the the province of Valladolid are becoming increasingly Alubias con almejas - beans cooked with clams Tipping and Prices world. Long gone is that image of gut rotting plonk popular – chosen by the King Juan Carlos for his Marmitako - a tuna based soup normally with Normally the amount we tip, as is local custom, of the sixties. son’s wedding, they are crisp and fruty and very peppers, paprika and potatoes depends on how satisfied we have been with the In even small towns, apart from the usual bars and reasonably priced. Sorroputún - a tuna fish and potato soup from San meal. In more sophisticated restaurants 10% is the bodegas, you will come across sophisticated The glorious, golden coloured “Godellos” from Vicente de la Barquera norm, while in humbler establishments it will be a “vinotecas” (wine bars), specialising in the best Valdeorras in southern Galicia and El Bierzo are full Macarrones - macaroni cooked in a tomato sauce little less. wines from all over the country and even simpler bodied and full of flavour and excellent value and often with chorizo or ham NB. Many places now take credit cards, but not all, restaurants will be able to offer you a good choice the young and aromatic whites from Penedes in Pudin de cabracho - a cooked especially in the villages. from different regions. Catalonia go down really well with fish and fish paté For many of the restaurants listed we comment on Red Wines seafood. Ensaladilla rusa - a potato and vegetable salad the cost of meals. As a rough guide menú del día with mayonnaise, sometimes with fish starts at approximately 9 euros per person in Red wine wise, Rioja is still tops and on a wine list The king of white wine in Spain though has to be Revuelto - like scrambled eggs, mixed with prawns, simpler establishments and can be up to 25 euros in a restaurant these wines will be divided into the Albariño from south west Galicia, the native grape peppers, shoots, etc. in more sophisticated restaurants (2013 prices). following categories: variety, albariño, only grown in this region in the Average à la carte prices are more, and obviously world. Internationally renowned, this pale golden Main Courses Cosechero/Joven crisp, elegant and fresh wine is said to be most out- depend very much on what you choose to eat. Callos - tripe (normally cooked in a spicy sauce Wine from the harvest of the year. standing from, the Val de Salnes Condado de Sal- with chorizo, ham and garlic) Crianza vatierra and El Rosal in the province of Pontevedra. Vegetarians Albondigas - meatballs cooked in sauce In the delightful, coastal town of Cambados there is From the list of basic ingredients you will see that This category corresponds to wines which are in at an annual fiesta of Albariño in mid-August where Lechazo - baby lamb no consideration is given to the true vegetarian; least their third year and have spent a minimum of wines are judged by expert tasters and are available Chuletillas de lechazo - baby lamb cutlets this is normally so in restaurants too-even a one year in oak casks. to the public. Filete - steak (often a bit on the tough side though “menestra” (a mixture of boiled and fried Reservas tasty) vegetables) will often have some kind of meat in it. Wines with a minimum of 3 years’ ageing between Also from southern Galicia and not to be missed is Chuleta de ternera - chop However, almost everywhere you will find a fresh cask and bottle and at least one year in the oak cask. Ribeiro, a light and refreshing white, traditionally served in tazas (little white ceramic bowls), but now Chuletón - like a ‘T’ bone steak salad and a good ‘tortilla de patatas’ (potato Gran Reserva you will usually be given it in a glass. Perfect with a Pollo - chicken omelette) if you ask for it. These are wines from exceptional vintages which tapa of pulpo or empanada! Conejo We have tried to emphasise places that will do have been aged for a minimum of two years in oak - rabbit their best to accommodate vegetarians, but please casks and three years in the bottle. Salud, dinero y amor! Carne asada - pot-roasted meat Solomillo - fillet steak

36 Hints on eating out in Spain | Wine Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Wine | Some typical dishes 37 Jabalí - wild boar sometimes ignited with anisette ... delicious Venado - venison Arroz con leche - , usually eaten warm A few recipes from Spain Cabrito - kid or cold - it can be very good indeed Flan de la casa/casero - homemade caramel custard Cordónices - quail Merluza a la Gallega flour and then into the beaten eggs. Fry in hot oil at least Zancarrón - a meat stew Tarta de manzana - apple tart half-inch deep. Drain and put them onto a serving dish and (Hake, Galician Style) Pimientos rellenos - stuffed peppers Tartas de la casa - different types of cakes often sprinkle with some sugar and cinnamon. Serve warm. made on the premises or by a good local baker Ingredients: NB. One teaspoon of anisette liqueur can be poured over Sesos rebozados - brains fried in (for 6 people) each square and ignited to make leche frita al anis. Lomo - loin of pork Cuajada - rennet pudding, normally eaten with 6 hake steaks honey 1 kilo potatoes Fish and Seafood Natillas - a homemade custard, sometimes served 100grs. of peas (tinned or frozen) Tortilla Espanola (Spanish Potato Omellete) Merluza - hake (sometimes cooked in batter or a la in an earthenware dish with a caramelised topping 1 dessertspoon paprika cazuela - in a wine based sauce with asparagus 6 tablespoons Ingredients: 4 cloves of garlic and red peppers among other ingredients) Tapas/Raciones (for 6 people) (Snacks – if you order a few you can make a chopped parsley 4 potatoes Cabracho - no translation - a bit like rock fish - has salt delicious meal of them). 1 onion a delicate flavour, good baked in the oven water 4 eggs Croquetas - croquettes, usually with a cheese or Bonito - like tuna Preparation: olive oil chicken and ham filling salt Rape - angler fish - like skate in appearance, makes Peel the potatoes and cut into thick slices and put them Rabas - squid fried in batter into a saucepan along with a clove of garlic, the chopped excellent eating Preparation: Pulpo - octupus, usually cooked gallego style, parsley and salt. Cover with water and with a lid on the Peel the potatoes and slice thinly. Chop the onion. Put Trucha - trout (often stuffed with cured ham) sprinkled with paprika and olive oil pan, boil gently until the potatoes are half cooked. Then lay these into a bowl and sprinkle with salt and mix. Rodaballo - turbot the hake steaks on top of them and add the peas. Mejillones - mussels Half fill a frying pan with oil and heat this. Add the potato Continue cooking until the potatoes and fish are done Lenguado - sole and onion mixture and ‘boil’ them in the oil until they are Pincho moruno - like small, spicy kebabs. (about ten minutes). Meanwhile heat the olive oil in a cooked. Drain off the oil – the easiest way to do this is by Lubina - bass frying pan and add the chopped garlic. When it is nicely Chorizo a la sidra - chorizo cooked in cider putting the potato and onion mixture in a sieve. Allow to browned stir in the paprika and remove from the heat. Pescadilla - whiting Champiñones al ajillo - mushrooms in garlic sauce cool. Meanwhile beat the eggs and then add the cooled When the fish and potatoes are done, drain off the liquid, Bocartes - fresh anchovies Empanadillas - turnovers stuffed with tuna or meat mixture to these. Stir well. Then heat a little oil in the frying reserving a little to add to the paprika sauce. Place the pan until it is smoking. Pour in the egg mixture, rapidly Sardinas - sardines (smaller than the Mediterranean filling potatoes on a serving dish and lay the fish steaks on top. variety and tastier) spreading it out in the pan. Lower the heat to medium high Aceitunas - olives Return the frying pan to the flame, add the reserved liquid and shake the pan often to prevent sticking. Bacalao - salt cod (usually cooked in tomato sauce) Jamón - cured ham and bring to the boil. Pour this over the fish and the potatoes. When the potatoes begin to brown underneath place a Calamares en su tinta - squid in its own ink Mollejas - sweetbread plate over the frying pan and flip the tortilla onto the plate. Langostinos - giant prawns Asadurilla - pig's fry Leche Frita Then slide the tortilla back into the pan. Lower the heat to Gambas al ajillo - prawns cooked with garlic medium. After a minute or two turn again – then slide onto Morcilla - like black pudding, but spicier (‘Fried Milk’) a serving plate. Serve warm or cold. Almejas a la marinera - clams cooked in a white Almejas - baby clams Ingredients: wine sauce with parsley Queso - cheese (for 6 people) Marmitako Langosta 1 litre of milk - lobster Boquerones en vinagre - marinated smelts (Bonito and Potato Soup - from Bar El Muelle, Comillas) Mero - grouper 1 coffee cup of sugar Caracolillos - sea 1 small stick of cinnamon Ingredients: Angulas - baby eels Pimientos con anchoas - red peppers with anchovies peel of half a lemon (for 6 people) Bogavante - large lobster 50 grs. butter 1/2 kilo potatoes, peeled and cubed Cangrejo de mar - crab Pinchos 3 dessertspoons of flour 1/2 kilo bonito, skinned and cubed Pinchos are small appetizers normally available all 2 eggs 1 large onion Percebes - goose barnacles (considered a great day through in the town bars. They help to fill the oil for frying 1 green pepper delicacy here) flour 1 dried chilli gap between breakfast and lunch or the gap at any Parrillada de pescado - a platter of grilled fish 1 glass of white wine time in fact! Mostly they are displayed on the bar Preparation: olive oil, salt Bring the milk with the lemon peel, cinnamon and sugar to Parrillada de marisco - a platter of grilled seafood counters, but if not just say: water the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Dame un pincho de: For tomato sauce: Puddings Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour and stir for 1 tin chopped tomatoes (tomate titurado) or fresh chopped tortilla - potato omelette In general puddings are simple. You will normally two minutes. Then gradually pour in the hot milk and go tomatoes be offered helado (ice-cream) flan (caramel Lomo - a slice of loin of pork on stirring until the mixture is smooth. Simmer for five olive oil, salt Chorizo - spiced sausage minutes, stirring at intervals. Then remove the lemon peel 1 teaspoon paprika custard) or fruta (fruit), but sometimes you will be and cinnamon stick. Pour into a greased shallow dish. pleasantly surprised by the following: Other pinchos could be a quarter of a toasted Leave to cool and then refrigerate until the custard Preparation: Leche frita - ‘fried milk’ - a kind of custard which is sandwich or a piece of fried fish on a piece of becomes hard. Chop the onion and pepper finely and saute in the olive oil until they are lightly browned. Add the chilli and the cubed bread - just keep your eyes open! When it is cold cut into two-inch squares, dip them into fried and then sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, potatoes and stir around for a few minutes. Cover with

38 Some typical dishes Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide A few recipes from Spain 39 water, add salt and bring to the boil. Boil gently until the potatoes are cooked. Pollo al Ajillo (Garlic Chicken) Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce by heating some olive Useful phrases in Spanish Ingredients: oil in a pan. When hot, add the chopped tomatoes, salt 1 chicken or chicken pieces (about 1.5kg) and paprika. Cover the pan with a lid and let this mixture 4 tablespoons olive oil If you are non-Spanish speakers the following carne de vaca (beef) boil gently for about 10 minutes. 1 whole head of garlic might be of help to you when you are out pollo (chicken) When the potatoes are cooked, add the white wine, about 4 tablespoons Spanish brandy shopping... Different cuts: half of the tomato sauce and the bonito. Cover the pan Salt and pepper with a lid and cook for 15-20 minutes. Make sure you ¿Donde esta?: (Where is) carne picada (mince) have enough water to make a nice thick soupy Preparation: la carniceria (butcher's) lomo (loins) Chop the chicken into pieces (not too big), and pat dry. consistency. la pescaderia (fishmonger's) olomillo (fillet) Put the oil in a frying pan or shallow casserole over a Once cooked, remove from the heat and let it rest for a la fruteria (greengrocer's) falda (skirt) while before eating with good fresh crusty bread. moderate heat; once hot, add the chicken and cook, turning from time to time, until it is golden brown. la panaderia (baker's) chuletas (chops Meanwhile either peel the garlic and whizz it in a food la farmacia (chemists) chuleton (T bone steak) Fabada Asturiana processor, or crush it through a garlic press. Keep a little of la pasteleria (cake shop) chuletillas (baby chops) the crushed garlic to one side. rinones (kidneys) (Asturian Bean Stew) la libreria (book shop) Add the rest of the garlic to the chicken, grind a generous el estanco (tobacconist's where they sell stamps) higado (liver) Ingredients: sprinkling of pepper over, and then add the brandy. el banco (bank) panceta de cerdo (belly of pork) 1/2 kilo dried white beans Careful now! Set light to the brandy and as it flames stir the costillas de cerdo (pork spare ribs) 1/4 kilo panceta (slab ) chicken pieces around (with a long handled implement!), correos (post office) 2 chorizos la ferreteria (iron monger's) solomillo frances (beef for pot ) morcilla del ano Once the flames have died down, lower the heat, cover 1 (smoked black pudding) filete (steak) 1 hambone or knuckle the pan, and cook gently till the chicken is cooked through Quiero: (I'd like) 1 onion – start testing after 20 minutes, the juices should run clear. un kilo pechuga de pollo (chicken breast) 1 whole head of garlic Once ready, sprinkle with salt and the reserved garlic and medio kilo alas de pollo (chicken wings) serve. 1 small hot red pepper un cuarto de kilo muslos de pollo (chicken legs) 1 bayleaf carne para guisar (estofar) (stewing steak) salt Patatas Pobres cien gramos 2 tablespoons olive oil de (of) salchichas (sausages (Poor Man’s Potatoes) 2 cloves garlic crushed patatas (potatoes) Useful phrases when out shopping: 1 dessertspoon paprika Ingredients: 750g potatoes judias (beans) ¿Que quiere? (What would you like?) Preparation: Olive oil – about 3 tablespoons guisantes (peas) ¿Quiero un kilo de... (I'd like...) Soak beans overnight in cold water. 2 cloves garlic, crushed cebollas (onions) ¿Quien es el siguiente? (Who's next?) The next day put the beans in fresh water in a very large 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped zanahorias (carrots) pan with the bayleaf, the whole head of garlic, hot red Salt and pepper Yo. (Me) pepper, chorizos, panceta, morcilla and ham bone. Bring pimientos (peppers) ¿Quien es la ultima? (el ultimo?)(Who is the last in Preparation: to the boil, cover pan and simmer slowly for about two alcachofas (artichokes) the queue?) Peel and slice (about ½ cm thick) the potatoes. hours, skimming if necessary. calabacines (courgettes) Algo mas? (Anything else?) Heat the oil in a frying pan, and add the potatoes, When everything is thoroughly cooked, remove the head berenjenas (aubergines) No, eso es todo. (No, that's all) of garlic, the bay leaf and the onion. Taste for salt. In a sprinkling with salt and a little grinding of pepper as you small frying pan heat the oil, garlic and paprika until the layer them, then gently turn them over. champinones (mushrooms) Si, deme otro kilo de... (Yes, give me...) garlic begins to sizzle. Add this to the beans and stir. It's Cover the pan and cook on a low heat; turn the potatoes espinacas (spinach) ¿Cuanto es? (How much is it?) best to leave the fabada to sit for a while and it's even from time to time, and continue cooking till they are tender. alcegas (swiss chard) ¿Que desea? (Can I help you?) better the next day. Remove the lid, turn up the heat and let the bottom layer tomates (tomatoes) Quiero cambiar veinte libras. (I'd like to change £20) of potatoes brown a bit. To serve, reheat and transfer to a large casserole dish una lechuga (a lettuce) arranging the , cut up, on top. Finally add the garlic and parsley, and serve. Cooking Terms una coliflor (a cauliflower) A la parilla (barbequed) una cabeza de ajo (a head of garlic) A la plancha (grilled) una col (a cabbage) A la romana/rebozada (in batter) At the butcher's: this can be confusing, frustrating A la cazuela (cooked in an earthenware dish) and difficult as meat is cut in a different way in Al ajillo (cooked with plenty of garlic) Spain and much of it filetes - steak! Al horno (roasted in the oven) Different types of meat: A la gallega (prepared with paprika and oil) cerdo (pork) Escabechado (marinated in oil and vinegar) ternera (veal) Salteado (sautéed) lechazo (baby lamb) Al tresviso (with blue cheese sauce) cordero (lamb) Frito (fried)

40 A few recipes from Spain Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Useful phrases in Spanish 41