Casas Cantabricas offers holidays in lovely lesser known regions of Spain and Portugal, with an excellent choice of houses – from seaside cottages to country mansions – and Cantabria of family-run hotels and pensions. There are numerous restaurants in this region, some simple and others more sophisticated, many family run. Most of these mentioned here are reasonably priced and all of them should by law offer a menu or Whichever property or hotel you choose, you will find yourself in plato del día which includes wine and bread, but in some establishments this is only at lunchtime when a beautiful and fascinating part of Iberia. Whichever region you the local workers have their meal. In general helpings are very generous so be careful not to order too go to, you’ll discover that it has its own history and character – much if ordering à la carta. In some places, especially the mesónes there are no written menus – someone and its own proud traditions. And among the most important of will normally rattle off a long list of what is available for primer plato or primero (first course) and these traditions are always those of eating and drinking: from segundo plato (second course). See the following section on typical dishes. farm to market, from kitchen to table, the production and You may wonder what the difference is between a mesón and a restaurante. A mesón is rather like the old English enjoyment of good food is at the heart of local life. inn, serving food and drink to travellers –do not expect as much variety as in a restaurante – they normally offer good, honest, simple fare, served in the bar or in el comedor (dining room) if they have one. Cured hams, chorizos “¡Buen Provecho!”, our guide to restaurants and food, is based and morcillas will usually hang from hooks on beams and are offered as tapas (snacks) for those too hungry to wait on our local knowledge, experience and love of good food. Its for a full meal. However, some places may call themselves a mesón but offer a full restaurant menu – all rather aim is to serve as a guide to the food and drink of the regions confusing! where our holidays are based; whether choosing where to eat out What sort of food might you expect to eat here’ Cantabrian cuisine is based on good local produce –haricot beans or what to cook “a la casa”, we’re sure you’ll find it helpful. In it and other pulses, cabbages, greens, pork products – chorizo, morcilla, panceta and jamón- tradiitionally from la you’ll find a useful vocabulary section, several recipes for local matanza (killing of the family pig), lechazo (milk fed baby lamb), cabrito (kid) and all sorts of fish and seafood specialities and information on shopping and markets (many with local names). Milk is an important ingredient, not only for the good local cheeses, but in the most common puddings you will find here – arroz con leche (rice pudding), leche frita (fried milk) and flan (caramel For each region we offer a personal selection of local restaurants. custard). The cooking is tasty and hearty and emphasis is placed greatly on the quality of the ingredients. We include all sorts of places, from simple seafood tapas bar to In this part of Spain, particularly in the mesónes, the first course is often more interesting than the main course. elegant palacio dining room; all are included because they offer This is because of local demand – Spaniards in this area like their meat and fish fried or grilled and rate the quality good food of their locality. of the main ingredients as being more important than sauces and other condiments. Attitudes are changing though Our restaurant selection does not claim to be definitive, but we and you will find some interesting main course dishes. hope you’ll find it a helpful introduction. If you find somewhere Whenever you ask a Spaniard round for a meal you need never worry about surprising him with some new dish – you particularly like that we don’t mention, please let us know – serve what he likes; make sure you choose the best ingredients and follow your recipe closely. Whatever you do we are always pleased to have your comments and suggestions. there will be some criticism – Spaniards like to discuss food. © Casas Cantabricas 2013 A B C D E F G H I J K Asturias a Ve r 1 C o s t d e Costa de C Santander anta Galicia Western Coast bria Cantabria p.9 b 2 Los Locos Ajo Berrio Cóbreces Oyambre Santoña Bilbao Pechón Restaurant Guide Santillana Solares Asturias Comillas Laredo Cantabria Euskadi San Vicente Cantabria 9 3 Arredondo Castro Galicia Navarra de la Barquera Urdiales Hints on eating out in Spain 36 León Torrelavega Burgos A S T U R I A S Treceño Cabezón La Rioja dede lala SalSaSal Eastern E Wine 36 CASTILLA Y LEON U 4 Arenas Saja-Besaya Villacarriedo Cantabria S Some typical dishes 37 K Picos de E A Euskadi, La Rioja,Navarra uro Cabuérniga D A few recipes from Spain 39 Salamanca pa Parque ca bri I Useful phrases in Spanish 41 5 Natural ordillera Canta Fuente Picos de Saya-Besaya C Dé Castilla y León Potes Europa C o C 6 r Piasca A di Reinosa S T I lle Y L L A ra L Cant E O 7 abrica N Introduction Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Cantabria 1 East Cantabria: 0034 942 677306 Bar/Marisqueria Alfredo MAP REF: J3 Bar Los Espinos MAP REF: H2 A simple, popular, family run bar/restaurant. Good hearty Calle Santa Maria 2. In the port area. In side street almost at the end of the main street, opposite The Pasiego Country home-cooking – large portions! Very good value meñu del Although there is plenty of choice in Castro, this is the place Coviran supermarket. día with plenty of choice. to go for delicious raciones and tapas (fishy and otherwise). Tel: (0034) 942 621 362 San Vicente de Toranzo The array on the bar counter alone will tempt you in! Enjoy A friendly, little family run bar offering the typical raciones of Regules the port from their terrace if you can get a table. It can get the region, all freshly cooked. They will make you and your MAP REF: F4 Mesón El Cazador very busy. Reasonably priced. kids welcome. San Vicente de Toranzo – on the N623 between Puente La Casa del Puente MAP REF: G2 Viesgo and Ontañeda. Take CA256 from Ramales de la Victoria To Regules (8km). Ampuero Islares A family run restaurant offering good home cooking at The hotel/restaurant is by the bridge over the Río Gándara. reasonable prices. Tel: (0034) 942 639 020 Casa Pereda MAP REF: I3 Aisia MAP REF: J3 Bar/Restaurante Cienfuegos La Casa del Puente is a delightful hotel with a restaurant Calle José Antonio, 45. On the main road through town, on Eastern Cantabria between Laredo and Castro Urdiales Just which is open to the public. They have a stylish dining room the right just up from the main crossroads if coming from the off the A8 coastal motorway at exit 156. Leave at this exit On the N623 between Puente Viesgo and Ontaneda. if and a large covered terrace by the river where you can drink direction of Limpias. and get onto the N634 heading west the hotel / restaurant is coming from the Santander direction it is on your right after and dine. Traditional regional/Spanish cuisine – “pinchos de Tel: (0034) 942 622761 2km down this road on the right a large sawmill on the left. Parking in front of the restaurant. lechazo castellano” (baby lamb kebabs), their speciality. The small doorway looks just like any other small Spanish bar Tel: (0034) 942 862 212 If you are looking for genuine, home cooked, hearty, Good value menú del día on offer. but go in and you’re in for a surprise. Casa Pedrera is a very traditional food then this is the place. A very simple The perfect place for a stop off when travelling between spacious, elegant pub-restaurant with garden and play area bar/restaurant, very popular with locals, they certainly know Bilbao and the west. Right at the water’s edge with fantasic Rozas at the back. They have some standard ‘international’ dishes how to make food taste like food here. Many of the sea views – there’s no beach here but there is a small grass such as pizzas & burgers which are OK but the local fare is ingredients are from their own vegetable patch and farm. MAP REF: G2 park with steps down to the water and lifeguards in season Casa Tablas really very good – especially anything made with the local, Menú del día is available everyday, always with a good and plenty of car parking. The restaurant itself has great On the CA256 between Ramales de la Victoria and Regules. prize-winning Garmillas cheese or products from their own choice. Table wine is included, but they have Rioja too. not views y a have a good menu-del-dia for 15 euros Just a simple bar/restaurant, but very popular for its very ‘huerta’. They have barbecue & bands in the garden on Friday to be missed if you are staying in the Pasiego area. good home cooking of regional dishes. They make their own nights in the summer so it’s probably wise to book ahead. Limpias chorizos etc. Soto Güemes Casa La Piedra MAP REF: I3 Mesón Santo Domingo MAP REF: F3 Ramales de La Victoria Plaza del Cristo, Limpias Bar/Restaurante Luis MAP REF: H2 At the junction of N623 and El Soto/Villacarriedo road about Tel: (0034) 942 622 140 Restaurante Periguena MAP REF: G2 In the centre of the village opposite the church.