Galicia of Family-Run Hotels and Pensions
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Casas Cantabricas offers holidays in lovely lesser known regions of Spain and Portugal, with an excellent choice of houses – from seaside cottages to country mansions – and Galicia of family-run hotels and pensions. Much of Galician cuisine is based on fish, seafood and potatoes (almost the best we’ve eaten anywhere). Whichever property or hotel you choose, you will find yourself in Cabbages, turnip tops and pork products – chorizo, panceta, jamón and lacón are important too. The a beautiful and fascinating part of Iberia. Whichever region you cooking may not necessarily be imaginative, but it is tasty and hearty and as in Cantabria and Asturias go to, you’ll discover that it has its own history and character – emphasis is placed greatly on the quality of the ingredients. If you are vegetarian or if you have children and its own proud traditions. And among the most important of you may find it difficult when eating out, but almost everywhere you will be able to get fresh salad and a good “tortilla de patata” (potato omelette). As in other parts of Spain puddings are not always very these traditions are always those of eating and drinking: from exciting. You will usually be offered fruit, flan (caramel custard) or helado (ice-cream). Tartas de almendra farm to market, from kitchen to table, the production and de Santiago (almond tarts) are well worth a try if you come across them. enjoyment of good food is at the heart of local life. What we have found is that written menus and price lists are few and far between especially in the smaller “¡Buen Provecho!”, our guide to restaurants and food, is based villages- difficult if you have no Spanish let alone Gallego! But be brave. If you ask “¿Qué hay?” (What is there?) on our local knowledge, experience and love of good food. Its Often the reply is “Hay de todo” (There’s something of everything). Don’t take this literally- what it really means is aim is to serve as a guide to the food and drink of the regions that there are a few basic dishes on offer and that if you want a specific dish you have to order it in advance- where our holidays are based; whether choosing where to eat out either in the morning or the day before. This applies particularly to seafood, certain kinds of fish and dishes like or what to cook “a la casa”, we’re sure you’ll find it helpful. In it paella. In the summer months menus are more varied- I am writing from our experience at other times of the year. you’ll find a useful vocabulary section, several recipes for local In Cantabria and Asturias “menú or plato del día” (a three course meal with wine and bread included) is widely specialities and information on shopping and markets available, but here in Galicia that doesn’t always seem to be so. Still it is always worth asking if they have it. What you will find here is that many of the restaurants are “parrilladas”- they have woodfired grills for barbequeing fish For each region we offer a personal selection of local restaurants. and meat. Prices in general are reasonable and the owners and staff of restaurants normally helpful and pleasant. We include all sorts of places, from simple seafood tapas bar to elegant palacio dining room; all are included because they offer As in many parts of Spain A B C D E F G H I J eating out is usually done u c e n s e good food of their locality. 1 t a L at lunchtime so this is when C o s Viveiro Our restaurant selection does not claim to be definitive, but we there will be more choice hope you’ll find it a helpful introduction. If you find somewhere on the menu. However if Ferrol 2 Ribadeo you order your food for the you particularly like that we don’t mention, please let us know – t a s Costa Lucense evening then this should s A l La Coruña Foz we are always pleased to have your comments and suggestions. R i a not be a problem. Eating 3 Malpica Mondoñedo © Casas Cantabricas 2013 times: Midday: 1:00-3:30. Rias Altas A Evening: 8/8:30-10:30 S Asturias T (these times can vary 4 Carballo Betanzos U p.19 R Galicia depending on the I Cantabria restaurant). N.B. Many A Corbución S Lugo places now have credit card 5 Cabo Carnota facilities but not in the Finisterra Santiago Restaurant Guide smaller villages. de Compostella Santiago Asturias Muros Cantabria Euskadi and inland Galicia 19 We hope our restaurant list 6 Galicia Navarra Rias Villafranca Hints on eating out in Spain 36 León will act as a guideline to del Bierzo Burgos Bajas La Rioja help you become familiar Wine 36 CASTILLA Y LEON CambadosC R C I A with Galician food. Most of 7 A L I i G Western Pontevedra Some typical dishes 37 the places on the list are a Ribe s ra León Sa A few recipes from Spain Euskadi, La Rioja,Navarra simple establishments B 39 Salamanca cra 8 a Vigo offering typical dishes of j Useful phrases in Spanish 41 a the region. For more s Orense N Castilla y León E Ó sophisticated restaurants L L one generally has to go to 9 G A the larger cities and towns. U R T O 10 P ii Introduction Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Galicia 19 Costa Lucense Restaurante/Mesón Alberto MAP REF: G5 Tel: (0034) 982 521 903 Rinlo Calle Cruz 4, Lugo – in the old part of town not far from the If you go to visit Mondoñedo for the day then this is the Baamonde underground parking Plaza Santa Domingo. place to stop and have lunch. A very popular restaurant with Restaurante Cofradía de Pescadores de Tel: (0034) 982 228 310 write ups in the national press. Very Galician and very busy Rinlo MAP REF: I2 the day we went. They do a good menú del día, but have Restaurant Galicia MAP REF: G4 Alberto has won many gastronomic awards and among his Calle Praza Leopoldo Calvo Sotelo y Bustelo, Rinlo. Rinlo is plenty more on the à la carte menu including some very Baamonde, Carretera A Coruña, 22 – the old road (N634), clients has been the Pope! He is married to Flor who runs a situated between Ribadeo and Barreiros, before Playa As tempting homemade puddings. Reasonably priced. very near the motorway between Lugo and A Coruña. local hotel, Jorge 1. If you are staying in Lugo for the night Catedrais if you are coming from Asturias. Turn off N634 Tel: (0034) 982 398 085 and feel like splashing out a bit try here. It is in the street Viveiro when you see the sign to the village. There are few restaurants like this in the whole of Spain. Run where all the typical mesónes are. They do tapas in the bar at Tel: (0034) 982 123 007 by a poet, Xoan Corral Castro, you will walk into a different reasonable prices, but the restaurant upstairs is pricier – Bar Galicia MAP REF: G2 Situated in the small picturesque fishing village of Rinlo, the seafood is their speciality, but they have fish and meat too world here of eccentricity, mementos from the past and a In centre of town on the one-way system brotherhood of fishermen who own this restaurant, is the and the service is very professional, but not intimidating. true feel of someone who has put their love into what they This is the place to go for a drink as they keep offering you second oldest in Spain. It is just a simple restaurant serving love. As one of his poems says “When I was born in Galicia, very reasonably priced fish and seafood – all fresh from the MAP REF: G5 delicious tapas (included in the price of the drink). They have they called me a rich boy. How could I be poor, born in such Pulpeira Palmira sea. Their speciality is Arroz Caldoso (like a paella,but more Calle Comandante Mariso, 17, Lugo – just outside the gate a tiny restaurant too. Very typical of the region and very a paradise?” On Saturday nights (you have to book) very popular with locals. soupy) – this has to be ordered in advance and is for a late he does his own special show. He has his books on sale of San Pedro by the walls. minimum of two people. They have some meat dishes too. and many pilgrims have stopped here on the route to Great for pulpo (octopus). Cheap and friendly. Restaurante Nito MAP REF: G2 They close on Tuesdays except in July, August and Santiago to buy his works. The food is good, honest and Playa de Area – 3 kms from Viveiro September. You could combine this restaurant with a day out homemade – not a great deal of choice, but tasty and real – Bar/Restaurante Antas MAP REF: G5 at the wonderful Playa As Catedrais. Tel: (0034) 982 560 987. the lamb and the merluza are particularly good and the “flan In the old quarter of Lugo (Casco Histórico). Calle Miño, nº3. de queso” exquisite. It is an experience you would not Tel: (0034) 982 220 923 Excellent for fish and seafood. Specialities are merluza à la Bar Portillo MAP REF: I2 gallega and calamares de potera de la ría en su tinta. Very forget. Prices are moderate.