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Home , Cambados, Galician cuisine, Lechazo, O Barqueiro, Pincho, Viveiro

Casas Cantabricas offers holidays in lovely lesser known regions of and Portugal, with an excellent choice of houses – from seaside cottages to country mansions – and of family-run hotels and pensions. Much of Galician is based on fish, seafood and potatoes (almost the best we’ve eaten anywhere). Whichever property or hotel you choose, you will find yourself in Cabbages, turnip tops and pork products – , panceta, jamón and lacón are important too. The a beautiful and fascinating part of Iberia. Whichever region you may not necessarily be imaginative, but it is tasty and hearty and as in and Asturias go to, you’ll discover that it has its own history and character – emphasis is placed greatly on the quality of the ingredients. If you are vegetarian or if you have children and its own proud traditions. And among the most important of you may find it difficult when eating out, but almost everywhere you will be able to get fresh salad and a good “tortilla de patata” ( omelette). As in other parts of Spain puddings are not always very these traditions are always those of eating and drinking: from exciting. You will usually be offered fruit, flan (caramel custard) or helado (ice-cream). Tartas de almendra farm to market, from to table, the production and de (almond tarts) are well worth a try if you come across them. enjoyment of good is at the heart of local life. What we have found is that written menus and price lists are few and far between especially in the smaller “¡Buen Provecho!”, our guide to restaurants and food, is based villages- difficult if you have no Spanish let alone Gallego! But be brave. If you ask “¿Qué hay?” (What is there?) on our local knowledge, experience and love of good food. Its Often the reply is “Hay de todo” (There’s something of everything). Don’t take this literally- what it really means is aim is to serve as a guide to the food and drink of the regions that there are a few basic dishes on offer and that if you want a specific dish you have to order it in advance- where our holidays are based; whether choosing where to eat out either in the morning or the day before. This applies particularly to seafood, certain kinds of fish and dishes like or what to cook “a la casa”, we’re sure you’ll find it helpful. In it paella. In the summer months menus are more varied- I am writing from our experience at other times of the year. you’ll find a useful vocabulary section, several recipes for local In Cantabria and Asturias “menú or plato del día” (a three with wine and included) is widely specialities and information on shopping and markets available, but here in Galicia that doesn’t always seem to be so. Still it is always worth asking if they have it. What you will find here is that many of the restaurants are “parrilladas”- they have woodfired grills for barbequeing fish For each region we offer a personal selection of local restaurants. and . Prices in general are reasonable and the owners and staff of restaurants normally helpful and pleasant. We include all sorts of places, from simple seafood bar to elegant palacio dining room; all are included because they offer As in many parts of Spain A B C D E F G H I J eating out is usually done u c e n s e good food of their locality. 1 t a L at lunchtime so this is when C o s Our restaurant selection does not claim to be definitive, but we there will be more choice hope you’ll find it a helpful introduction. If you find somewhere on the menu. However if 2 you order your food for the you particularly like that we don’t mention, please let us know – t a s Costa Lucense evening then this should s A l La Coruña we are always pleased to have your comments and suggestions. i a not be a problem. Eating 3 Malpica Mondoñedo © Casas Cantabricas 2013 times: Midday: 1:00-3:30. Altas A Evening: 8/8:30-10:30 S Asturias T (these times can vary 4 Carballo U p.19 R Galicia depending on the I Cantabria restaurant). N.B. Many A Corbución S places now have credit card 5 Cabo Carnota facilities but not in the Finisterra Santiago Restaurant Guide smaller villages. de Compostella Santiago Asturias Cantabria Euskadi and inland Galicia 19 We hope our restaurant list 6 Galicia Navarra Rias Villafranca Hints on eating out in Spain 36 León will act as a guideline to del Bierzo Burgos Bajas help you become familiar Wine 36 CASTILLA Y LEON CambadosC R C I A with Galician food. Most of 7 A L I i G Western Some typical dishes 37 the places on the list are a Ribe s ra León Sa A few recipes from Spain Euskadi, La Rioja,Navarra simple establishments B 39 Salamanca cra 8 a offering typical dishes of j Useful phrases in Spanish 41 a the region. For more s Orense N

Castilla y León E Ó sophisticated restaurants L L one generally has to go to 9 G A the larger cities and towns. U R T O 10 P

ii Introduction Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Galicia 19 Costa Lucense Restaurante/Mesón Alberto MAP REF: G5 Tel: (0034) 982 521 903 Rinlo Calle Cruz 4, Lugo – in the old part of town not far from the If you go to visit Mondoñedo for the day then this is the Baamonde underground parking Plaza Santa Domingo. place to stop and have . A very popular restaurant with Restaurante Cofradía de Pescadores de Tel: (0034) 982 228 310 write ups in the national press. Very Galician and very busy Rinlo MAP REF: I2 the day we went. They do a good menú del día, but have Restaurant Galicia MAP REF: G4 Alberto has won many gastronomic awards and among his Calle Praza Leopoldo Calvo Sotelo y Bustelo, Rinlo. Rinlo is plenty more on the à la carte menu including some very Baamonde, Carretera A Coruña, 22 – the old road (N634), clients has been the Pope! He is married to Flor who runs a situated between Ribadeo and Barreiros, before Playa As tempting homemade puddings. Reasonably priced. very near the motorway between Lugo and A Coruña. local hotel, Jorge 1. If you are staying in Lugo for the night Catedrais if you are coming from Asturias. Turn off N634 Tel: (0034) 982 398 085 and feel like splashing out a bit try here. It is in the street Viveiro when you see the sign to the village. There are few restaurants like this in the whole of Spain. Run where all the typical mesónes are. They do tapas in the bar at Tel: (0034) 982 123 007 by a poet, Xoan Corral Castro, you will walk into a different reasonable prices, but the restaurant upstairs is pricier – Bar Galicia MAP REF: G2 Situated in the small picturesque fishing village of Rinlo, the seafood is their speciality, but they have fish and meat too world here of eccentricity, mementos from the past and a In centre of town on the one-way system brotherhood of fishermen who own this restaurant, is the and the service is very professional, but not intimidating. true feel of someone who has put their love into what they This is the place to go for a drink as they keep offering you second oldest in Spain. It is just a simple restaurant serving love. As one of his poems says “When I was born in Galicia, very reasonably priced fish and seafood – all fresh from the MAP REF: G5 delicious tapas (included in the price of the drink). They have they called me a rich boy. How could I be poor, born in such Pulpeira Palmira sea. Their speciality is Arroz Caldoso (like a paella,but more Calle Comandante Mariso, 17, Lugo – just outside the gate a tiny restaurant too. Very typical of the region and very a paradise?” On Saturday nights (you have to book) very popular with locals. soupy) – this has to be ordered in advance and is for a late he does his own special show. He has his books on sale of San Pedro by the walls. minimum of two people. They have some meat dishes too. and many pilgrims have stopped here on the route to Great for pulpo (octopus). Cheap and friendly. Restaurante Nito MAP REF: G2 They close on Tuesdays except in July, August and Santiago to buy his works. The food is good, honest and Playa de Area – 3 kms from Viveiro September. You could combine this restaurant with a day out homemade – not a great deal of choice, but tasty and real – Bar/Restaurante Antas MAP REF: G5 at the wonderful Playa As Catedrais. Tel: (0034) 982 560 987. the lamb and the merluza are particularly good and the “flan In the old quarter of Lugo (Casco Histórico). Calle Miño, nº3. de queso” exquisite. It is an experience you would not Tel: (0034) 982 220 923 Excellent for fish and seafood. Specialities are merluza à la Bar Portillo MAP REF: I2 gallega and calamares de potera de la ría en su tinta. Very forget. Prices are moderate. In the old quarter of Lugo you will be amazed by the number In the port area in the village. expensive. of bars there are, but you will be even more knocked back by Tel: (0034) 647 673 636 Villaframil – Ribadeo the tapas and pinchos they serve you with each drink you Parrillada O’Parque MAP REF: G2 A bright, little, family run bar with a small outside terrace. order. You can virtually have your dinner before you have it! Cantarrana, Playa Covas They serve lovely fishy tapas – try the “zamburiñas” (baby El Huerto MAP REF: I3 Long established, Bar/restaurante Antas, an old building ) if they have them. Just after Ribadeo on the N634 on the right when coming under the arches right in the heart of the old quarter is no Tel: (0034) 982 561 571 from Asturias – there is a large car park in front of it. exception. Should you be hungry enough for dinner they also Specialises in barbequed meat and fish. Tel: (0034) 982 130 824 have a pleasant little dining room – their specialities are Rias Altas Pulpería A Taciña MAP REF: G2 If you are driving towards Galicia via the coast this is a good pulpo, bacalao, grilled , game when in season and Av. de El Ferrol, Viveiro place to stop; it’s very popular with travellers so it does get basically all things Galician! Good, hearty food. They close on busy. With traditional home cooking, specialising in home- Sundays and the last fortnight of October and the first week Octopus – pulpo – is the speciality here. of September. A Pitanza Restaurante MAP REF: F3 produced meat including baby lamb (they have a barbeque), Pulpería Os Picos MAP REF: G2 and fish and seafood, it is great for both menú del día or à la Calle Real, 44, Pontedeume, A Coruña – in the upper part of Cantarrana, Playa Covas carte – and do try their coffee, roasted daily. They also sell Sarría the old town where the arches are. products of the region. Moderately priced. Again, this is one of the places to go for octopus. Tel: (0034) 981 495 621 Mar de Plata – In Pontedeume, a historic town on the ría between El Ferról Marzán – Foz Pulperia/Restaurante MAP REF: G5 Vieiro and A Coruña, this is the place to go for something a little Calle José Antonio, 39, , Lugo. more sophisticated. The small dining room is attractively O’Filon MAP REF: I4 Hostal/Restaurante “O Norte” MAP REF: H2 Tel: (0034) 982 530 724 decorated, while the owners are attentive and take great care Ctra Iglesia, Vieiro – near the church in Vieiro and Casa de On C452 between Foz and Fazouro – Avenida de Viveiro, 25 If you happen to visit Sarria, a market town on the Pilgrims’ in the presentation of the food, which makes full use of local Hilda. Tel: (0034) 982 132 181 Way south of Lugo, then this is the place to go for lunch. A produce. There is a very good selection of wine. Not Tel: (0034) 982 562 290 Nothing notable here, but this practical, friendly, family run very popular, busy restaurant with a great local atmosphere, excessively expensive. bar / restaurant / hostal is cheap and cheerful, recently simple and honest, where traditional dishes are served with Simple, but popular village mesón serving barbequed meat MAP REF: F3 modernised, popular with all, and offers a variety of good, “gusto”. and fish among other dishes at very reasonable prices. Very Café – Bar Nevada traditional home cooking. You’ll find it after leaving Foz friendly service. They have a terrace and a garden so good Calle Real 1, Pontedeume – in the old part of town. towards Fazouro, on the left. Santaballa for kids. Tel: (0034) 981 432 554 A very simple bar, but serving the freshest of shellfish and Lugo Parrillada Area Blanca MAP REF: G3 Ribadeo seafood from the ría – cockles, clams, squid, octupus etc. On the C641 between Villalba and Viveiro. Very simply prepared, but delicious. A Dorada de Cantábrico MAP REF: I3 Bar Cotá MAP REF: G5 Tel: (0034) 982 511 401 Calle Virgen del Camino 14, Ribadeo. Leave motorway at Plaza Soledad, 18. Lugo About an hour inland from Viveiro this is a very good little Camelle exit RO3 to Ribadeo Centro. Tel: (0034) 982 231 772 restaurant – homely and friendly. They do raciónes in the bar Tel: (0034) 982 129 616 MAP REF: B4 Through the walls in the old part of town near the indoor and their specialities in the restaurant are carnes a la parrilla Café / Bar Rotterdam market (underground parking very nearby), in a little street (barbequed meat), bacalao à la brasa (grilled salt cod) and A great, long established little restaurant with a real In the port in Camelle. leading off Plaza de Soledad. This might not be to chipirones à la plancha (pan fried squid), but they have much professional and friendly service. You can eat in the bar or in A quote from one of our clients: “ Café / Bar Rotterdam is everybody´s taste – it is a very simple, family run restaurant more. The barbequed quails and chicken are delicious. They the more elegant dining room. They have delicious fish and the best place I have eaten in in Spain. (I have travelled offering traditional Gallegan cooking – there’s not much make a very good cheesecake too. Reasonably priced. seafood, but meat dishes too and all sorts of raciónes. Their extensively and eaten many, many !)”. Simple, family choice, just the dishes written up on the blackboard. You will specialities are zarzuela de pescados (a mixture of different run, they serve mostly fish and seafood raciónes. not find many authentic restaurants left like this in Spain. Go Mondonedo fish gently stewed), paella, lubina al champán (bass cooked MAP REF: B4 early as it is very popular with locals and the atmosphere is in champagne) and fabada (to order).On Sundays they do a La Chalana usually buzzing. Cheap. Restaurante A Voltina MAP REF: H3 wonderful with chickpeas and tripe. Reasonably priced Camelle, in the centre of the village, across the road from On N634 just before the town of Mondonedo for the quality. Highly recommended. the fountain on the right.

20 Galicia Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Galicia 21 A bar with a restaurant attached, run by Maripura’s daughter not be put off by this – there is a pleasant view onto the ría kitchen, they provide a professional, but relaxed service and the table and they will bring you what has been cooked that and her husband. Maripura has run a bar with a dining room and the food is fresh and not overpriced. Speciality of the the food is very fresh and good – fish and seafood their day. Very tasty and amazingly reasonable. across the way for many many years, but she has now house is merluza à la gallega. They also do meat dishes – speciality, though they also have meat dishes. We have eaten retired. Her daughter offers simple home cooked food using cordero asado, chuletas de cordero, chuleta de ternera, here several times and have never been disappointed. Very good local ingredients and reasonably priced. milanesa and callos and seafood. We have had reasonably priced for the quality. there several times- well cooked and nicely presented but Playa de Baldaio, Imende, Razo enormous portions! The salad is always nice and fresh too. Arteixo Porto do Parrillada Pedra do Sal MAP REF: D3 Restaurante Balases MAP REF: C4 Parrillada La Florida MAP REF: D3 Bar Portonadelas MAP REF: C6 Playa Baldaio – right on the beach where the car park is. Canduas/Cabana, on main road on the right as you drive Avenida de Finisterre, 17, Arteixo, A Coruña. Avenida de Galicia, Porto do Son – right at the end of the This restaurant has recently been refurbished with a stylish towards Canduas before Restaurante San Martin. Arteixo is certainly not a place you would deliberately head port on the left. dining room and offers excellent fish and seafood as well as This is definitely a more upmarket restaurant run by a man for, but if you are driving out of A Coruña on the old road to Tel: (0034) 981 854 007 barbequed meat. Their speciality is “arroz con bogavante” who lived in England for many years so English is spoken. We Carballo and it happens to be lunchtime then I would stop A very simple bar with a few tables, serving tapas, ( with lobster) – exquisite. Professional, friendly staff, a have not had the chance to eat here but the owner of Casa here. It is a very busy restaurant used by local businessmen , paella (to order), and “carne a pedra” (grilled good wine list and depending where your table is a good de Ovidio has recommended it to us and says the clients and full of atmosphere the day we went, specialising in beef). Cheap and cheerful with a good local atmosphere. The view of the sea. Very popular at weekends so go early or staying at his house have enjoyed it very much. barbequed meat (very good), but they have many other chicken with mushrooms is very good indeed, as are the book in advance. dishes too. Good professional service and we thought very prawns with . Restaurante Parrillada Cruz do Caballo good value for money. Restaurante Cordobes MAP REF: D3 Parrillada “Jape” MAP REF: C6 MAP REF: C4 Arnados, Razo, by the beach Quintans Avenida de Galicia, Porto do Son – just before Bar On the right- hand side of the road on the way into Laxe – This is a simple bar/restaurant with tables and chairs outside Portonadelas. well signposted. in the summer for eating out. It is reasonably priced and in Restaurante Plaza MAP REF: B4 Tel: (0034) 981 853 437 Popular with our clients, the food is good and fresh and the the summer he normally has dishes like ternera asada, callos, In the main square in the village of Quintans, 8 kms from This belongs to the owner of Hotel Villa do Son. We had a prices are reasonable. They do a menú del día and have tapas calamares en su tinta, filetes, tortilla and pescado prepared. If Muxia. very good seafood/fish platter here. Their speciality is “arroz too. you want something else – paella for instance – order the day Tel: (0034) 981 750 452 con bogavante” (rice with lobster). Not expensive. Javier, the before or in the morning. A simple bar/restaurant/pension in the main village square. /barman is very friendly and welcoming. Very popular Laxe Manolo and Charo pride themselves on their home cooking with our clients. Meson A’Sainas MAP REF: D3 Restaurante Beiromar MAP REF: C4 and will offer you a warm welcome at any time of day. Very Imende - Playa Baldaio, on main road going down to the beach reasonable. Restaurante Arnela 2 MAP REF: C6 This is a parrillada with a bar and dining area with an Laxe Porto Do Son, off the main road enclosed terrace. The owner, Pancho is a gentle, helpful man One client says, “good view of the bay, friendly English Nemiña Recommended by one of our house owners, this is a new and he will do his best to please. They barbeque fish and speaking owner (he learnt the hotel trade in London), food modern restaurant, serving fish, seafood and meat dishes. meat on their wood fired grill. I would recommend the good, but as in most places not much choice for non-fish Restaurante Saburil MAP REF: B4 criollos and the pinchos morunos – if they have lamb eaters. Ignore the pub on the ground floor – just go upstairs Nemiña – not far from Muxia. Right on the beach. to the comedor.” cooked in the oven it is well worth trying too. They do salad Tel: (0034) 981 727 889 and chips to go with the meat or fish. Reasonable prices. It MAP REF: D7 A simple family run establishment with a pleasant dining Casa Ces gets very busy at the weekends so it is good to get there early. Vimianzo room with views onto the beach. This is certainly the place to Calle Portoliña, 15, San Salvador de Poio, 36005 Poio, Pontevedra – on the old coastal road (C550) between Café Bar Pastoriza MAP REF: C4 go for fish and seafood at very reasonable prices and a good, Malpica Pontevedra and Combarro (worth a visit in itself). Vimianzo, on the right as you come into the town from Cée. local, friendly atmosphere. Tel: (0034) 986 872 946 Restaurants in Malpica MAP REF: C3 Vimianzo is a non-descript sort of place, but it does have an Established in 1908, this restaurant does not look much from There are many places to eat out in Malpica. We have been interesting castle. There are several parrilladas in the town Estaca de Bares the outside, but it is a smart establishment, perhaps pricier recommended a few restaurants on the way into the town: and this bar that does very good pulpo and also offers other A Muller Mariña MAP REF: G2 than some but good for a special occasion and for those Restaurante Pastoriza, Dorado and Esqueiro. tapas is well worth a try. In the port/beach area of Estaca de Bares. From Viveiro take staying in the southern part of Galicia. Here local ingredients N642 direction El Ferrol. Just after Porto turn are used to their best advantage, very attractively presented. Canduas Corme right onto AC100 to Estaca/Porto do Bares. If they have it and it is to your taste, try “arroz con setas” Bar O’Rancheiro MAP REF: C4 Restaurant Miramar MAP REF: C3 Tel: (0034) 666 966 547 (rice with wild mushrooms) – excellent. They also have a very extensive wine list. Canduas, on the LC430 going towards Baio In Corme A simple, nicely kept and friendly beach/bar restaurant with a Tel: (0034) 981 714 178 Recommended by one of our clients. “The dining area has a terrace overlooking the dreamy bay of Porto do Bares (a Phoenician port) on the Northern coast of Galicia. Specialities Arcade We have had several meals here and though it is a simple lovely view over the beach and the water and it offered the are fish and seafood, but they do steaks as well and restaurant with tables in the bar they offer good home local speciality percebes. However eater beware! Like many MAP REF: D7 puddings and ice-creams. All very reasonably priced. Well Restaurante Avenida cooking. They do a very good value menú del día – cheap for restaurants it did not have a written menu, so for non- worth a detour not just for the restaurant, but for the On the old road, the N550, which skirts the Ría de Vigo, Galicia! Their specialities include caldo gallego, caldeirada, Spanish speakers like ourselves we did not realise that they fantastic spot. above Vigo between and Pontevedra, in the main carne estofada, milanesas, carne asada, pulpo, langostinos, were more expensive than the usual starters. We did street in Arcade, the Avenida Alfonso Rodrigo Castelao, 1. however notice that percebes were over twice the price in mejillones, gambas, berberechos, merluza a la cazuela, Tel: (0034) 986 700 008 lenguado. They will do food to order including paella. Corme so we obviously got a bargain.” Carnes Arcade, as well as Vigo, is famous for its oysters. This is a Cafe/Bar Casa Ferrin MAP REF: F4 Restaurante San Martin MAP REF: C4 A Coruña serious old fashioned kind of Spanish restaurant with a In the square by the church in the centre of the village of professional feel about it. You can sense that the waiters Canduas/Cabana, on main road on the right as you drive Carnes. have worked here for years. We had oysters (small, but very towards Canduas. Restaurante Varela MAP REF: E3 María Barbeito, 1, a Coruña – just off Plaza Maria Pita Tel: (0034) 981 730 050 good) and the most delicious grilled prawns and “merluza à Tel: (0034) 981 754 180 la vasca” (hake) – truly fresh and tasty. Moderately priced A very popular little restaurant this especially at lunchtime. This is the village bar with a dining room at the back. All very A modern bar/dining room with rather garish decor, but do and well worth a visit. Run by a husband and wife team and lots of ladies in the simple, but what food and what helpings! Just sit down at

22 Galicia Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Galicia 23 was empty – we felt sorry for them ... but within minutes of Carnota Muros Tarogoña ordering our food the rest of the tables filled up with people Bar/Restaurante O’Nosa Mar MAP REF: B5 Don Bodegón MAP REF: B6 Casa Pachin MAP REF: C6 we could see were not making their first visit there. The On the road out of Carnota towards Lira. Near the port in Muros. Taragoña, on C550 between Padrón and Ribeira. owner and the staff were both friendly and very attentive and we had a delicious seafood dinner with both red and Cheap and cheerful and often very busy. They offer a good A good traditional restaurant, popular with both locals and Tel: (0034) 981 861 211 white wines from the region. value menú del día- plenty of choice, but also have an à la visitors. They do raciónes in the bar and serve full meals in A busy restaurant, often catering for wedding parties at the carte menu. Popular with previous clients. the dining room. They specialise in both fish and meat dishes. weekends so plenty of atmosphere then! If you are after Restaurante Balueiro MAP REF: C9 Good value for the quality. oysters, they usually have them. They have a good selection Paseo do Porto, Punta Xenete, . It is at the northern Hotel/Restaurante Miramar MAP REF: B5 of seafood and fish and their menu in general is varied to suit end of the Paseo Maritimo – a little bit tricky to find. In the main square in Carnota. Mesón – Parrillada all tastes. Tel: (0034) 986 611 065 Run by a very nice and helpful man who seems to do O Marinero MAP REF: B6 A modern building and a modern interior, this restaurant offers everything, the dining room looks over the square. They do a Avenida Porteliña, 59, Muros. On the left going out of the Rianxo traditional dishes with innovative touches. The menú del día is menú del día and á la carte dishes. town towards . exceptionally good value considering the quality and presen - Tel: (0034) 981 827 667 Osteria Pulperia Cafeteria O Prouso MAP REF: B5 tation of the food. Very friendly and attentive service too. A very friendly, family run mesón with tables in the bar and O’Taberneiro Rianxo MAP REF: C6 Up the street behind the main square. out on the pavement. We had a delicious caldeirada (fish and This bar/restaurant is right at the end of the port. Rianxo is a Tomino Tel: (0034) 981 857 083 potato stew) there – they specialise in fish and seafood and fishing port and attractive old town off the Vía Rapida A posada with a popular, stylish cafeteria where you can barbequed meat. Very reasonably priced and you don’t feel between Padrón and Ribeira. A Roda Do Muino MAP REF: D9 have a good continental , a mid morning snack of like a tourist here. This is a genuine fishermen’s haunt, but no doubt attracts On the C550 between Tui and Tomino. It is on the main pinchos or raciónes in the evening. tourists in the summer. Great local atmosphere. Rianxo is road on the right if you are coming from Tui. Parking at side Nebra and Quintans famous for its mussels and has a large canning industry. This of restaurant. restaurant has its own viveiro – fish farm. Among the fish (Tel: (0034) 986 622 559 Caldebarcos Bar/Restaurante Universal MAP REF: C6 they serve are skate, hake, cod and turbot. Seafood features A typical roadhouse of the region with a cavernous dining Quintans – on C550 near Nebra. in a big way too – octopus and oysters are a speciality. Menú Casa Pili – Fontevella MAP REF: B5 room. The place to go for no nonsense barbequed meat, This is one of our favourite places – a simple, but light, airy del día is available – good selection. Reasonable prices. Caldebarcos, in the old port, with good views onto the ría. chicken and fish and salad and chips. Huge helpings and very restaurant with views onto the beach. Consistently good reasonable. If you are staying in Pinieros this is the place to go for fish home cooking. The waitress either tells you what is on offer Moaña and seafood as the owners have their own fishing boat. It’s or leaves her notepad with the menú del día written down Bar/Restaurante worth a drive too! The food is consistently excellent. The Bar Maruisa MAP REF: C8 for you to study. The menu depends very much on the day – Os Pedregales MAP REF: D9 dining room looking over La Playa de Carnota is an added last time we started with very good homemade de Down in the port. bonus. Pili, the owner, is the cook. If they have it try the On C550 between Tui and Tomino. On your left if coming calamares, followed by arroz con carne and costillas guisadas Just a small, simple bar/restaurant overlooking a small beach caldeirada de raya (skate) – you may have to ask for it – if from Tui – slightly back from the road. Parking at the front and then fruit – all reasonably priced. Get there early at lunch- (when the tide is out), the ría and Vigo beyond. You can they do not have skate then try another type of fish. With of the restaurant. time, as it is popular with locals. Not open in the evenings. either eat outside on a small covered platform with this this and a salad, and a pudding perhaps, you will have more magnificent view or in the bar. They offer all kinds of fish and A simple, family run restaurant and bar with a sitting out area than enough. Their seafood paella is very good too – full of Restaurante Playa de Arnela MAP REF: C6 seafood, besugo, lenguado, rape, sardinas, sargo, calamares for the warmer months. Traditional Galician fare. Always has surprises, but should be ordered in advance. Beyond Porto do Son on road going towards Xuño. and do paella and arroz negro – literally black rice – rice with fresh fish and very good quality meat, menú del día and raciones. They make their own Albarino wine which is Casa Manolo MAP REF: B5 Recommended by one of our clients, it is a popular squid in its own ink. They also have salad and roast chicken restaurant with good food, has a printed menu (with an for non-fish eaters. excellent. You can buy this by the bottle or case at the bar. In Caldebarcos, on the main coastal road, on the right if you English version) and serves delicious gambas al ajillo (prawns are heading towards Carnota. in garlic ). Santa Christina de Ramallosa An excellent restaurant this, specialising in fish and seafood – O Viso Restaurante Cadaval MAP REF: D8 all wonderfully fresh and beautifully cooked and presented. Xuño Tapas Tono MAP REF: E5 They do meat dishes too and have some delicious puddings. On the main coastal road in O Viso on the right if you are Situated on the river by the Roman bridge at the Ramallosa It has a very pleasant cosy dining room and you will be well Bar Furnas MAP REF: C6 heading towards Carnota. estuary and beach at the entrance to Nigran. looked after by the attentive owner and his staff. not cheap, Xuno, on the beach – Playa Basoñas. (0034) 981 857 117 In a pleasant location by the river and Roman bridge on the but fairly priced considering the quality of the food. Ramallosa estuary, this Pazo has been converted into a lovely This is a simple beach bar offering snacks and meals in the A newly opened bar run by a young couple who serve a restaurant, specialising in barbequed meat and fish, lobster summer months and at weekends out of season. The owner’s selection of tasty tapas and raciones. Huge portions. A great with rice and some Brazilian dishes. Reasonably priced for the wife, who is Portuguese, cooks good, simple food – fish and place to take kids who need filling up after a long day on the O’Pindo quality. seafood a speciality. Worth knowing about if you feel like a beach. A very useful place for those staying in Piñeiros as it is A Revolta MAP REF: B5 beer, wine, soft drink or ice-cream while you are down on an easy walk there. On the road in O’Pindo. the beach. They have a terrace for sitting out. Nigran Family run restaurant, highly recommended by past clients. A Guarda Bar Boca de Rio MAP REF: C6 Restaurante Los Abetos MAP REF: C8 Very good for Sunday lunch. Avenida Val Minor, 89 Nigran – on the main road going Xuño – up the hill at the right of the beach. Restaurante Ribel MAP REF: C9 through town from north to south. “Very friendly and with great views” a client says. Ruá do Porto, 27, A Guarda. On the front in the port of A Cee Guarda. Tel: (0034) 986 368 147 Portosin Tel: (0034) 986 611 772 A long established, traditional restaurant (opened in 1982), Mesón/Parrillada O’Refuxio MAP REF: B5 their speciality is the impressive roast and baby Right on the front at A Guarda in the port area are a long On the C552 going into Cee from Vimianzo. Restaurante Portofino MAP REF: C6 lamb “al ruedo” – literally roasted on a large wheel. They line of fish and seafood restaurants and bars. It is difficult to Portosin, in the port. also pride themselves on their fish and and Just a simple restaurant specialising in barbequed meat. They choose which one to go for. Some are sophisticated, some their homemade puddings, not to mention starters! And they have fish too. Pleasant dining room and friendly service. Open all year round, it is a modern bar/restaurant serving more touristy and some just simple. We chose this one as it have an amazing choice of wines. They have a garden and seafood, fish and meat dishes. Bacalao de la casa (estilo was a very rainy night, but it had a terrace ouitside and it portugues) is one of their specialities. parking. A good place to go for a special occasion.

24 Galicia Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Galicia 25 Panxon O Cabalino do Demo MAP REF: D5 Avenida Virxe da Cerca. Meson Beiramar MAP REF: D8 Vegetarian restaurant, run by an American, recommended by In the port area of Panxon, on the right as you approach. one of our clients. The beach is on the left. Tel: (0034) 986 368 541 El Triangulo de Las Verduras MAP REF: D5 Nothing fancy about this place – just a good, solid Spanish Plazuela de Las Penas. Not far from Hotel Costa Vella. restaurant with , specialising in fish and Vegetarian restaurant, serving imaginative dishes. Non- seafood, but they have meat dishes as well and professional smoking. service and a covered outside terrace if the weather isn’t up to much. A good place to take the family – they have plenty Bar / Restaurante Chaves MAP REF: D5 of choice of raciones as well if you don’t want a full meal Cardenal Paya 5, Santiago, in a street leading off from Plaza and just the tapas they give you with your drinks is almost a Universidad. meal in itself! Nicely placed to look out over the port and bay. Tel: (0034) 981 581 403 A cheerful bar to go to for a tapa or reasonably priced menú del día. It is family run with just a few tables and the kitchen Santiago de la Compostela at the back. Apart from typical dishes, they offer hamburgers and toasted sandwiches. Owners: Balbino and Claudia. Santiago de la Compostela La Bodeguilla de San Roque MAP REF: D5 Café / Restaurante Praza de San Roque in the upper part of town. Casa Manolo MAP REF: D5 Great atmosphere. Good for raciónes. Very good wine list. Plaza de Cervantes – in the old part of town near Hotel Costa Vella and not far from the market. O’Dezaseís MAP REF: D5 Tel: (0034) 981 582 950 16 Rua de San Pedro Already mentioned in the Good Food Guide, this long Typical Gallegan restaurant – rustic and informal. Dining established restaurant has recently had a face lift, refurbished room in the basement best. Specialities: pulpo a la brasa in designer style, but do not be put off by this. It is still one (grilled octopus) and empanada (gallegan pie). of the most popular restaurants in town. Although they only offer menú del día, there is plenty to choose from and it is Casal do Cabildo MAP REF: D5 excellent value for money. Great local/student atmosphere. Ruá de San Pedro, 18 15703 Santiago de Compostela Try the red wine from ‘El Bierzo’ – very reasonable, very good. Tel: (0034) 981 583 057 A stylish bar and restaurant decorated in traditional stone and Toñi Vicente Restaurante MAP REF: D5 wood on two floors with an exterior patio on the ground Rosalia de Castro 24 floor. Great for a snack or a full meal, it is very reasonably priced, especially their excellent value menú del día which is Tel: (0034) 981 594 100 more imaginative than most and includes a very good red This is said to be the best restaurant in Santiago de wine. They are well known for their “tostas” – toasted Compostela. Very pricey, very swish. We have dined here home-made bread with a variety of exciting toppings and for once and were not disappointed by the food or the service. It their “Tabla Tierra-Mar” which is a platter served on a is “” – “la cocina nueva” – Galician style, wooden board combining wonderful produce from the land with local ingredients prepared and served imaginatively. You and the sea. Highly recommended. are in for a real gastronomic experience here, and you’ll need to book in advance. Los Sobrinos del Padre – La Casa del Buen Pulpo MAP REF: D5 Bar Platerias MAP REF: D5 C/Fuente de San Miguel,7 15704 Santiago de Compostela ( Just by the cathedral in a corner before Rúa de Villar. Down the street from Hotel Costa Vella heading towards the Not an eating establishment this – just a tiny bar, but with Cathedral). the best juke box in town to take you down memory lane. Tel: (0034) 981 583 566 Good for a glass of wine or a coffee and for sitting and Just a simple, family run eating establishment which will take listening to the oldest hits. you back in time. Good, honest home cooking and friendly service, making you feel at home. They do tapas, menú del O Meia Pataca MAP REF: D5 día and á la carte. Seafood a speciality. Reasonable prices. At the begining of Rua do Franco Bar Arimo MAP REF: D5 Specialises in potato stew as a tapa. Preguntoiro, 2 – Santiago. Just of Praza de Cervantes. A brilliant bar with a great atmosphere. On some nights O Catro MAP REF: D5 there is live music in the cellar. They do very good raciones “El pulpo más auténtico.” (The tastiest octopus going!) and hand out excellent tapas with your drinks. Once you have been there you will feel almost too full for dinner.

26 Galicia Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide 27 Best recent years for Rioja be patient –vegetarianism really has not taken off in this part of Spain yet. A vegetarian friend of ours 2001, 2004, 2008, 2009, 2010 and 2011. Some typical dishes Hints on eating says she can often get a good meal by saying she Hard on the heels of Rioja, are the excellent full Starters is on a special diet which does not include meat or bodied reds of Ribera del Duero (voted best wine Sopa de fideos - chicken fish. region of the year 2012) (most recent best year Sopa de pescado - fish soup out in Spain 2010) and they too are categorized. Your pocket Sopa de marisco - seafood soup Eating Times Children might not be able to stretch to the supposedly” Children too may have difficulty in finding best” wine in Spain “Vega Sicilia”, but there is Cocido montañés - the local bean based stew with Spaniards here mainly eat out at lunchtime so this something that suits their tastes, but there are plenty of choice out there - names such as Protos, greens and is when the food is prepared, especially in the nearly always chips and it is worth asking for Prado Rey and Pesquera will be on all the worthy Lentejas - lentils - usually cooked with chorizo (a simpler establishments. Although people do eat out meatballs and the like. wine lists, but if you are lucky to come across a spicy ) morcilla (like black pudding) and in the evenings you will probably be offered a humbler (pricewise) but very drinkable Fuentenarro tocino (salt pork) more varied menu at midday. Some places have In general here people try their best to – try it! Alubias con chorizo - a haricot bean based stew more on offer at the weekends, on feast days and please: ¡Buen Provecho! These two great wine growing regions apart, up Alubias viudas - a haricot bean based stew, but in the summer. Eating times: midday 1.00-3.30; without any of the normal sausages evening: 8/8.30-10.30 (times vary depending on and coming wines are being produced in many dif- Garbanzos - a chick pea stew restaurant). ferent areas of Spain, notably El Bierzo (Leon Wine province), Navarra, Toro, Extremadura, La Mancha Patatas con carne or ragut - a stew with more Do not expect full meals at times other than these, There has been a revolution in the wine world in and Penedes. All very drinkable and all very exciting! potatoes than meat but if you would like to eat at say six in the Spain over the last decade and now, not only does Menestra de verduras - a mixture of boiled and evening then choose a bar offering “platos Spain have the greatest extension of vineyards in White wines fried , sometimes with some cured ham combinados” – a set main course – often steak, Europe, it is also, with the latest technology, a great For lively and refreshing white wines “vino added egg and chips or chicken and chips and salad. variety of grapes and super fast fermentation meth- verdejo” from the Rueda wine growing region in Fabada - Asturian bean stew with sausages ods, one of the top producers of fine wine in the the province of Valladolid are becoming increasingly Alubias con almejas - beans cooked with clams Tipping and Prices world. Long gone is that image of gut rotting plonk popular – chosen by the King Juan Carlos for his Marmitako - a tuna based soup normally with Normally the amount we tip, as is local custom, of the sixties. son’s wedding, they are crisp and fruty and very peppers, paprika and potatoes depends on how satisfied we have been with the In even small towns, apart from the usual bars and reasonably priced. Sorroputún - a tuna fish and potato soup from San meal. In more sophisticated restaurants 10% is the bodegas, you will come across sophisticated The glorious, golden coloured “Godellos” from Vicente de la Barquera norm, while in humbler establishments it will be a “vinotecas” (wine bars), specialising in the best Valdeorras in southern Galicia and El Bierzo are full Macarrones - macaroni cooked in a tomato sauce little less. wines from all over the country and even simpler bodied and full of flavour and excellent value and often with chorizo or ham NB. Many places now take credit cards, but not all, restaurants will be able to offer you a good choice the young and aromatic whites from Penedes in Pudin de cabracho - a cooked especially in the villages. from different regions. Catalonia go down really well with fish and fish paté For many of the restaurants listed we comment on Red Wines seafood. Ensaladilla rusa - a potato and salad the cost of meals. As a rough guide menú del día with mayonnaise, sometimes with fish starts at approximately 9 euros per person in Red wine wise, Rioja is still tops and on a wine list The king of white wine in Spain though has to be Revuelto - like scrambled eggs, mixed with prawns, simpler establishments and can be up to 25 euros in a restaurant these wines will be divided into the Albariño from south west Galicia, the native grape peppers, garlic shoots, etc. in more sophisticated restaurants (2013 prices). following categories: variety, albariño, only grown in this region in the Average à la carte prices are more, and obviously world. Internationally renowned, this pale golden Main Courses Cosechero/Joven crisp, elegant and fresh wine is said to be most out- depend very much on what you choose to eat. Callos - tripe (normally cooked in a spicy sauce Wine from the harvest of the year. standing from, the Val de Salnes Condado de Sal- with chorizo, ham and garlic) Crianza vatierra and El Rosal in the . Vegetarians Albondigas - meatballs cooked in sauce In the delightful, coastal town of Cambados there is From the list of basic ingredients you will see that This category corresponds to wines which are in at an annual fiesta of Albariño in mid-August where Lechazo - baby lamb no consideration is given to the true vegetarian; least their third year and have spent a minimum of wines are judged by expert tasters and are available Chuletillas de lechazo - baby lamb cutlets this is normally so in restaurants too-even a one year in oak casks. to the public. Filete - steak (often a bit on the tough side though “menestra” (a mixture of boiled and fried Reservas tasty) vegetables) will often have some kind of meat in it. Wines with a minimum of 3 years’ ageing between Also from southern Galicia and not to be missed is Chuleta de ternera - veal chop However, almost everywhere you will find a fresh cask and bottle and at least one year in the oak cask. Ribeiro, a light and refreshing white, traditionally served in tazas (little white ceramic bowls), but now Chuletón - like a ‘T’ bone steak salad and a good ‘tortilla de patatas’ (potato Gran Reserva you will usually be given it in a glass. Perfect with a Pollo - chicken omelette) if you ask for it. These are wines from exceptional vintages which tapa of pulpo or empanada! Conejo We have tried to emphasise places that will do have been aged for a minimum of two years in oak - rabbit their best to accommodate vegetarians, but please casks and three years in the bottle. Salud, dinero y amor! Carne asada - pot-roasted meat Solomillo - fillet steak

36 Hints on eating out in Spain | Wine Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Wine | Some typical dishes 37 Jabalí - wild boar sometimes ignited with anisette ... delicious Venado - venison Arroz con leche - rice pudding, usually eaten warm A few recipes from Spain Cabrito - kid or cold - it can be very good indeed Flan de la casa/casero - homemade caramel custard Cordónices - quail Merluza a la Gallega flour and then into the beaten eggs. Fry in hot oil at least Zancarrón - a meat stew Tarta de manzana - apple tart half-inch deep. Drain and put them onto a serving dish and (Hake, Galician Style) Pimientos rellenos - stuffed peppers Tartas de la casa - different types of cakes often sprinkle with some sugar and cinnamon. Serve warm. made on the premises or by a good local baker Ingredients: NB. One teaspoon of anisette liqueur can be poured over Sesos rebozados - brains fried in (for 6 people) each square and ignited to make leche frita al anis. Lomo - loin of pork Cuajada - rennet pudding, normally eaten with 6 hake steaks honey 1 kilo potatoes Fish and Seafood Natillas - a homemade custard, sometimes served 100grs. of peas (tinned or frozen) Tortilla Espanola (Spanish Potato Omellete) Merluza - hake (sometimes cooked in batter or a la in an earthenware dish with a caramelised topping 1 dessertspoon paprika cazuela - in a wine based sauce with asparagus 6 tablespoons Ingredients: 4 cloves of garlic and red peppers among other ingredients) Tapas/Raciones (for 6 people) (Snacks – if you order a few you can make a chopped parsley 4 potatoes Cabracho - no translation - a bit like rock fish - has salt delicious meal of them). 1 onion a delicate flavour, good baked in the oven water 4 eggs Croquetas - croquettes, usually with a cheese or Bonito - like tuna Preparation: olive oil chicken and ham filling salt Rape - angler fish - like skate in appearance, makes Peel the potatoes and cut into thick slices and put them Rabas - squid fried in batter into a saucepan along with a clove of garlic, the chopped excellent eating Preparation: Pulpo - octupus, usually cooked gallego style, parsley and salt. Cover with water and with a lid on the Peel the potatoes and slice thinly. Chop the onion. Put Trucha - trout (often stuffed with cured ham) sprinkled with paprika and olive oil pan, boil gently until the potatoes are half cooked. Then lay these into a bowl and sprinkle with salt and mix. Rodaballo - turbot the hake steaks on top of them and add the peas. Mejillones - mussels Half fill a frying pan with oil and heat this. Add the potato Continue cooking until the potatoes and fish are done Lenguado - sole and onion mixture and ‘boil’ them in the oil until they are Pincho moruno - like small, spicy kebabs. (about ten minutes). Meanwhile heat the olive oil in a cooked. Drain off the oil – the easiest way to do this is by Lubina - bass frying pan and add the chopped garlic. When it is nicely Chorizo a la sidra - chorizo cooked in cider putting the potato and onion mixture in a sieve. Allow to browned stir in the paprika and remove from the heat. Pescadilla - whiting Champiñones al ajillo - mushrooms in garlic sauce cool. Meanwhile beat the eggs and then add the cooled When the fish and potatoes are done, drain off the liquid, Bocartes - fresh anchovies Empanadillas - turnovers stuffed with tuna or meat mixture to these. Stir well. Then heat a little oil in the frying reserving a little to add to the paprika sauce. Place the pan until it is smoking. Pour in the egg mixture, rapidly Sardinas - sardines (smaller than the Mediterranean filling potatoes on a serving dish and lay the fish steaks on top. variety and tastier) spreading it out in the pan. Lower the heat to medium high Aceitunas - olives Return the frying pan to the flame, add the reserved liquid and shake the pan often to prevent sticking. Bacalao - salt cod (usually cooked in tomato sauce) Jamón - cured ham and bring to the boil. Pour this over the fish and the potatoes. When the potatoes begin to brown underneath place a Calamares en su tinta - squid in its own ink Mollejas - sweetbread plate over the frying pan and flip the tortilla onto the plate. Langostinos - giant prawns Asadurilla - pig's fry Leche Frita Then slide the tortilla back into the pan. Lower the heat to Gambas al ajillo - prawns cooked with garlic medium. After a minute or two turn again – then slide onto Morcilla - like black pudding, but spicier (‘Fried Milk’) a serving plate. Serve warm or cold. Almejas a la marinera - clams cooked in a white Almejas - baby clams Ingredients: wine sauce with parsley Queso - cheese (for 6 people) Marmitako Langosta 1 litre of milk - lobster Boquerones en vinagre - marinated smelts (Bonito and Potato Soup - from Bar El Muelle, Comillas) Mero - grouper 1 coffee cup of sugar Caracolillos - sea snails 1 small stick of cinnamon Ingredients: Angulas - baby eels Pimientos con anchoas - red peppers with anchovies peel of half a lemon (for 6 people) Bogavante - large lobster 50 grs. butter 1/2 kilo potatoes, peeled and cubed Cangrejo de mar - crab Pinchos 3 dessertspoons of flour 1/2 kilo bonito, skinned and cubed Pinchos are small appetizers normally available all 2 eggs 1 large onion Percebes - goose barnacles (considered a great day through in the town bars. They help to fill the oil for frying 1 green pepper delicacy here) flour 1 dried chilli gap between breakfast and lunch or the gap at any Parrillada de pescado - a platter of grilled fish 1 glass of white wine time in fact! Mostly they are displayed on the bar Preparation: olive oil, salt Bring the milk with the lemon peel, cinnamon and sugar to Parrillada de marisco - a platter of grilled seafood counters, but if not just say: water the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Dame un pincho de: For tomato sauce: Puddings Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour and stir for 1 tin chopped tomatoes (tomate titurado) or fresh chopped tortilla - potato omelette In general puddings are simple. You will normally two minutes. Then gradually pour in the hot milk and go tomatoes be offered helado (ice-cream) flan (caramel Lomo - a slice of loin of pork on stirring until the mixture is smooth. Simmer for five olive oil, salt Chorizo - spiced sausage minutes, stirring at intervals. Then remove the lemon peel 1 teaspoon paprika custard) or fruta (fruit), but sometimes you will be and cinnamon stick. Pour into a greased shallow dish. pleasantly surprised by the following: Other pinchos could be a quarter of a toasted Leave to cool and then refrigerate until the custard Preparation: Leche frita - ‘fried milk’ - a kind of custard which is sandwich or a piece of fried fish on a piece of becomes hard. Chop the onion and pepper finely and saute in the olive oil until they are lightly browned. Add the chilli and the cubed bread - just keep your eyes open! When it is cold cut into two-inch squares, dip them into fried and then sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, potatoes and stir around for a few minutes. Cover with

38 Some typical dishes Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide A few recipes from Spain 39 water, add salt and bring to the boil. Boil gently until the potatoes are cooked. Pollo al Ajillo (Garlic Chicken) Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce by heating some olive Useful phrases in Spanish Ingredients: oil in a pan. When hot, add the chopped tomatoes, salt 1 chicken or chicken pieces (about 1.5kg) and paprika. Cover the pan with a lid and let this mixture 4 tablespoons olive oil If you are non-Spanish speakers the following carne de vaca (beef) boil gently for about 10 minutes. 1 whole head of garlic might be of help to you when you are out pollo (chicken) When the potatoes are cooked, add the white wine, about 4 tablespoons Spanish brandy shopping... Different cuts: half of the tomato sauce and the bonito. Cover the pan Salt and pepper with a lid and cook for 15-20 minutes. Make sure you ¿Donde esta?: (Where is) carne picada (mince) have enough water to make a nice thick soupy Preparation: la carniceria (butcher's) lomo (loins) Chop the chicken into pieces (not too big), and pat dry. consistency. la pescaderia (fishmonger's) olomillo (fillet) Put the oil in a frying pan or shallow casserole over a Once cooked, remove from the heat and let it rest for a la fruteria (greengrocer's) falda (skirt) while before eating with good fresh crusty bread. moderate heat; once hot, add the chicken and cook, turning from time to time, until it is golden brown. la panaderia (baker's) chuletas (chops Meanwhile either peel the garlic and whizz it in a food la farmacia (chemists) chuleton (T bone steak) Fabada Asturiana processor, or crush it through a garlic press. Keep a little of la pasteleria (cake shop) chuletillas (baby chops) the crushed garlic to one side. rinones (kidneys) (Asturian Bean Stew) la libreria (book shop) Add the rest of the garlic to the chicken, grind a generous el estanco (tobacconist's where they sell stamps) higado (liver) Ingredients: sprinkling of pepper over, and then add the brandy. el banco (bank) panceta de cerdo (belly of pork) 1/2 kilo dried white beans Careful now! Set light to the brandy and as it flames stir the costillas de cerdo (pork spare ribs) 1/4 kilo panceta (slab bacon) chicken pieces around (with a long handled implement!), correos (post office) 2 chorizos la ferreteria (iron monger's) solomillo frances (beef for pot ) morcilla del ano Once the flames have died down, lower the heat, cover 1 (smoked black pudding) filete (steak) 1 hambone or knuckle the pan, and cook gently till the chicken is cooked through Quiero: (I'd like) 1 onion – start testing after 20 minutes, the juices should run clear. un kilo pechuga de pollo (chicken breast) 1 whole head of garlic Once ready, sprinkle with salt and the reserved garlic and medio kilo alas de pollo (chicken wings) serve. 1 small hot red pepper un cuarto de kilo muslos de pollo (chicken legs) 1 bayleaf carne para guisar (estofar) (stewing steak) salt Patatas Pobres cien gramos 2 tablespoons olive oil de (of) salchichas (sausages (Poor Man’s Potatoes) 2 cloves garlic crushed patatas (potatoes) Useful phrases when out shopping: 1 dessertspoon paprika Ingredients: 750g potatoes judias (beans) ¿Que quiere? (What would you like?) Preparation: Olive oil – about 3 tablespoons guisantes (peas) ¿Quiero un kilo de... (I'd like...) Soak beans overnight in cold water. 2 cloves garlic, crushed cebollas (onions) ¿Quien es el siguiente? (Who's next?) The next day put the beans in fresh water in a very large 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped zanahorias (carrots) pan with the bayleaf, the whole head of garlic, hot red Salt and pepper Yo. (Me) pepper, chorizos, panceta, morcilla and ham bone. Bring pimientos (peppers) ¿Quien es la ultima? (el ultimo?)(Who is the last in Preparation: to the boil, cover pan and simmer slowly for about two alcachofas (artichokes) the queue?) Peel and slice (about ½ cm thick) the potatoes. hours, skimming if necessary. calabacines (courgettes) Algo mas? (Anything else?) Heat the oil in a frying pan, and add the potatoes, When everything is thoroughly cooked, remove the head berenjenas (aubergines) No, eso es todo. (No, that's all) of garlic, the bay leaf and the onion. Taste for salt. In a sprinkling with salt and a little grinding of pepper as you small frying pan heat the oil, garlic and paprika until the layer them, then gently turn them over. champinones (mushrooms) Si, deme otro kilo de... (Yes, give me...) garlic begins to sizzle. Add this to the beans and stir. It's Cover the pan and cook on a low heat; turn the potatoes espinacas (spinach) ¿Cuanto es? (How much is it?) best to leave the fabada to sit for a while and it's even from time to time, and continue cooking till they are tender. alcegas (swiss chard) ¿Que desea? (Can I help you?) better the next day. Remove the lid, turn up the heat and let the bottom layer tomates (tomatoes) Quiero cambiar veinte libras. (I'd like to change £20) of potatoes brown a bit. To serve, reheat and transfer to a large casserole dish una lechuga (a lettuce) arranging the meats, cut up, on top. Finally add the garlic and parsley, and serve. Cooking Terms una coliflor (a cauliflower) A la parilla (barbequed) una cabeza de ajo (a head of garlic) A la plancha (grilled) una col (a cabbage) A la romana/rebozada (in batter) At the butcher's: this can be confusing, frustrating A la cazuela (cooked in an earthenware dish) and difficult as meat is cut in a different way in Al ajillo (cooked with plenty of garlic) Spain and much of it filetes - steak! Al horno (roasted in the oven) Different types of meat: A la gallega (prepared with paprika and oil) cerdo (pork) Escabechado (marinated in oil and vinegar) ternera (veal) Salteado (sautéed) lechazo (baby lamb) Al tresviso (with blue cheese sauce) cordero (lamb) Frito (fried)

40 A few recipes from Spain Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Useful phrases in Spanish 41