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Southern Morocco & Western Sahara ﺟﻨﻮﺏ ﺍﻟﻤﻐﺮﺏ ﻭﺍﻟﺼﺤﺮﺍء ﺍﻟﻐﺮﺑﻴﺔ

Why Go? Agadir ...... 362 The Souss Valley, where goats climb argan trees beneath Immouzzer des Ida the sun-baked Anti Atlas, draws a line across Morocco. Outanane ...... 371 South of this fertile valley, the pace of life in mountain vil- Taroudannt ...... 372 lages and Saharan gateways is seductively slow, free from Taliouine ...... 377 the hassles of mass tourism and modern existence. A sense of somewhere really fresh and undiscovered Tafraoute ...... 378 gusts through the region like the spring winds – and you’ll Tiznit ...... 387 want to savour it. On elegantly wrecked seafronts, sip a Mirleft ...... 390 mint tea and gaze at the wild Atlantic coast. When trek- Sidi Ifni ...... 392 king, mountain biking or driving through wrinkled Anti Goulimime ...... 397 Atlas foothills, stop before the next oasis village. The si- Tarfaya ...... 400 lence is like cling film across your ears. Laâyoune (Al-’uyun) ....403 The locals, from Chleuh Berbers in the Souss to the Sa- Dakhla (ad-Dakhla) ...... 406 harawi in the Western Sahara, seem determined to comple- ment the landscapes. Their light robes flutter under desert skies, and their dark herds dot rocky hillsides. Head south: you’ll be surprised. Best Places to Stay When to Go » Dar Najmat (p 391 ) Agadir » Les 3 Chameaux (p391 ) °C/°F Te m p Rainfall inches/mm » Naturally Morocco Guest 40/104 House (p 374 ) » Hôtel Salama (p380 ) 30/86 6/150

» Auberge Sahnoun (p382 ) 20/68 4/100 » Xanadu (p 393 ) 10/50 2/50

0/32 0 Best Places to Eat J FDNOSAJJMAM » Café-Restaurant Nomad (p 397 ) February March November Trek the Anti See almond Catch Taliouine’s » L’A g e n c e ( p 3 7 5 ) Atlas and head trees blossom, saffron festival » L’Arganier d’Ammelne to the southern celebrated by and Immouzzer (p 383 ) Atlantic coast for Tafraoute’s har- des Ida Outanane’s winter sun. vest festival. olive harvest. » Mezzo Mezzo (p 366 ) WESTERN SAHARA Tan Tan Plage Mechra Benâbbou361 CANARY Tarfaya Tan Tan ISLANDS ὄ Al-Haggounia Tindouf Benguérir (Spain) Laâyoune Bouguedra Youssoufia Foum el-Oued Smara Souira Kedima P7 Boujdour Bou Craa N1 A T L A N T I C Aïn N1 Ben Sidi-Bou- O C E A N Tili Othmane Wὄ e s t e r n Bîr Mogrein S a h a r a P10 Dakhla Tropic of Cancer Marrakesh Chichaoua Mijek Imlili Aoussard Zouérat S a h a r a Imi-n- Tanoute Asni Aghoninit A t l a s Bir-GandouzὄTichlaὄM ὄA U R I T A N I A Toubkal Oukaïmeden National Park Nouâdhibou 0 200 km H i g h Ijoukak Jebel 0 120 miles Toubkal Tizi n'Test Jebel Immouzzer des Tamri Assafid Tichka Ida Outanane Plateau Afensou Siroua Taghazout Paradise Valley Aoulouz Tagmout Tamraght Ouled A T L A N T I C Banana Beach Taroudannt Berhil Aourir Taliouine Agadir N10 O C E A N Tizi n'Taghatine Souss-Massa Inezgane Tioute

National Tifnite SAHARA & WESTERN MOROCCO SOUTHERN Park Aït THE M O R O C C O Baha SOUSS Igherm Massa Jebel Jebel L'Kest Aklim Aglou 0 50 km (2359m) (2531m) 0 30 miles Plage Ὀ Ida-ou-Gnidif Ameln Valley Anti Tandilt Atlas Tafraoute Tizi Mlil Mirleft Tiznit Adrar Mqorn (2344m) Tata Legzira Plage Col de N1 Kerdous Afella-Ighir Sidi Ifni Le Châpeau de Ukas Akka Sidi Ouarsik Mesti Napoléon & the Aït Mansour Pierres Bleues Bouzakarne Oum Bou Jerif el-Alek Aït Herbil N12 Plage Blanche Abaïnou Taghjicht Goulmime Tighmert Drâa N1 Tircht Oued Tan Tan Plage Tadalt See Inset for Western Sahara A L G E R I A Âouïnet- Assa Torkoz

Tan Tan Tiglite

Southern Morocco & Western Sahara Highlights 1 Stroll past art-deco relics 4 Stay in a traditional Ameln south with fabulous beaches as a sea-spray sunset settles Valley (p 383 ) Berber house and hotels on Sidi Ifni (p 392 ) 5 Commune with Antoine de 8 Find prehistoric rock 2 Trek, drive or cycle Saint-Exupery’s Little Prince carvings around Tata (p 383 ) through the concertinaed at Tarfaya (p400 ) 9 Meander up Paradise granite foothills of the Anti 6 Taste saff ron and argan oil Valley (p 372 ), an accessible Atlas (p378 ) in Taliouine (p 377 ) part of the High Atlas 3 Explore green palmeraies 7 Hang loose in Mirleft a Ride killer waves or just beneath ochre cliff s in the (p 390 ), the coolest spot in the enjoy the mix of locals and Afella-Ighir oasis (p 381 ) surfers at Taghazout (p 371 )